GPT39 (Monte Fitzroy)

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Summary with remarks to route that are considered useful for other hikers and packrafters. Include alerts, suggestions and personal perception of attractiveness and difficulties.

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Section Log, Alerts and Suggestions

Season 2023/24

• 2024-Apr-03 to 2024-Apr-05 / 2.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + OH 1 + B + OSM Trail to Laguna Sucia / Joscha

I combined Section 37, 38 and 39. It took me 10.5 days including 2.5 days waiting at Bahia Pescado for the ferry. I left a bag with food in Villa O'Higgins which the ferry brought me. And I could store food at the chilenian Border station. Therefore I never had to cary food for more than 5 days.

Day 1: RR [0.0-31.8] + OH39-01 + OH39-B [0.6-0.2]

I arrived at the southern end of lago de desierto at noon. I hiked for about 2 hours on the primary road until I got a hitch to the start of OH39-01. Its probably easier to get a hitch in the afternoon. At Laguna Piedras Blancas is a sign that the area around the Laguna is dangerous and it's forbidden to go to the Laguna. The sidetrail to the Laguna is a rock scramble. Because of wind and rain I did not went to the Laguna. But its possible to see the glacier without scrambling up to the Laguna (its also possible to see the glacier from the RR) and the rest of the trail is in good condition as well. I camped at the campsite Poincenot [39.4+0.2].

Day 2: OH39-B [0.2-2.6] + OSM Trail to Laguna Sucia + RR [39.4-49.4]

I went up to the Laguna de los Tres for sunrise with about 50 other hikers. The trail is officially closed for the season, but nobody cares. It was a little icy, but doable without spikes. I returned to the campsite Poincenot and went to the Laguna Sucia on the OSM trail. This trail is also officially closed, because it is suposed to be to dangerous. The last few hundred meters to the Laguna is a rock scramble, but in good conditions pretty easy. During the rock scramble you can go on both sides of the river. I liked the southern side a little more, even though the OSM trail is on the northern side. I can really recommend Laguna Sucia. Only few people and in my opinion more impressive than Laguna de los Tres. After that I returned to the RR and went to Laguna Torre. I camped at the Campsite D' Agostini at km 49.4.

Day 3: RR [49.4-59.4]

Easy walk to El Chalten.

• 2024 Ma 20 to 22 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Juliette and Martin

Day 1 : Argentinian gendarmeria - Punta Sur

A small day with only a walk along the lago Desierto. Approximatly 5 hours of walk. Nice points of view on the fitz Roy. We sleeped at the « Hosteria y restaurante Punta sur »… It’s 48 000 argentinian pesos for a two people room with a breakfast included (and it’s allowed us to dry our stuff). There is a camping on the side with a small refuge inside in case of rain for 14 000 pesos per people.

Day 2 : Punta Sur - Camp Poincenot

We hitchhiked to skip the road to hike less (because of a foot pain). The detour to the Laguna Piedras Blancas worth it, but the ascenption to the lake on huge rock took us à long time, despite the low distance. Camping poincenot was crowded, but we didn’t heard of any mice.

Day 3 : camp Poincenot - El Chalten

Wake up early to contemplate to sun rise from the Lago los Tres. The ascenption from the camp is an hour long, easy beaucause overrun and the trail is maitained. A lot of people do the same (almost 20 or 30 I would say). It’s really beautiful, espacially if you have a good weather. Walking on the most famous trail around the fitz roy is really différent from the GPT. The trailed arouned Cerro Torre is really easy and overrun.

• 2024-Mar-08 to 2024-Mar-09/ 1.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + Opt 01 + Var B+D / Matthias

Day 1: Argentine Border Control – near Rio Electrico:

Started at the Argentine Border Control at 14:00. (I stayed the night before in Candelario Mancilla, GPT38). It took me 3:45h of straight walking to reach the road on the southern end of the lake. Got a ride from there at 18:15 to the bridge over Rio Electrico. On OSM there was a camping indicated there, which does not exist. Due to the beginning darkness, I camped near the path of Option01 2km from the bridge – very windy night.

Day 2: near Rio Electrico - Laguna Piedras Blancas - Laguna de Los Tres - Laguna Torre - El Chalten

A very (too) long day due to a bad weather forecast for the following days. Option 1 is very nice though officially closed because in one season there had ocurred 18 accidents and one person dying. (Information of park ranger Miguel at whose house I stayed in ElChalten). Was lucky to see Fitz Roy from Laguna Piedras Blancas! It is very interesting to see how the tourists concentrate to certain hot spots all over the world. On the path to Laguna de Los Tres I “met” probably more people (hundreds) than on my whole 60 day GPT hike before!

24-Mar-03 to 2024-Mar-05 / 48 hours / Hiking / SOBO / RR, option 1, new option from Laguna Sucio to Laguna Torre / Tomáš

I started at 1300 from the carabinieros. The trail to road took me 3 hours (with one 5 minute stop), it is not that horrible with ups and downs but it has its share, with the small ones at the end more unexpected. I wanted to catch a bus that supposedly leaves at 4 as previously noted. I met only one couple hiking one km from the road. How surprised was I by the full carpark (30 cars). The bus apparently leaves at five. I hitched a car instead after 15 minutes. The road seemed busy, maybe it was the Sunday afternoon but one car passed every 3-5 minutes (and there were cars going north too). Got off at start of option 1 - there is enormous parking lot there with maybe 50 cars.

I took the option 1 which is supposed to be peopleless. It is, once you reach the X at 2.4. Or earlier, if you take the OSM trail after 1 km signposted to camping Poincenot. Follow that for 500 m and then turn right on a barely used trail. Shortcut the detour by CCing (roughly here:49.2387039S, 72.9553397W) to the left through open forest after cca 400 m on this trail. Once again on the GPT, you will come across a fence - I guess that is why this trail is not much used, it is probably not official. Viewpoint at 6.2 is really worth it - for me it was also the first time I saw Fitz Roy, as it was in the clouds previously. I camped at the turnoff to the viewpoint here: 49.2640959S, 72.9554167W. There is a place for tent but I used a cave-like space under a boulder 15 m upstream - it was big enough to allow me to use the inner part of my tent against the few mosquitoes around. Too small for two though. Not sure what the legal situation is, I heard when caught camping without a permit in the park, they take your gear and you must pay a fine in town. This trail is however rarely used (only signed by cairns), so probably they would not check here [also, sleeping under the lagoon might be dangerous as it could technically collapse at anytime).

The next day I did not take variant B to Lago de los Tres. By the way the OSM trail there to Cerro Madsen in reality does not seem to go over glacier but in between them, the glaciars are shrinking (it is marked as SAC 4 which seems about right, looks easily walkable/lightly scramblable), you could also probably cut it from the Lago to Laguna Sucia going through this seemingly waterless valley/gulley: 49.2825930S, 72.9843467W. How do I know these? I went from Laguna Sucia (not on GPT yet, but it is on OSM partly) to Laguna Torre. This is a demanding but very fun and extremely beautiful scramble (at most SAC 5 but I did not exactly always aim for the easiest route), hopefully it will make it to the GPX files for the next season. For now, pictures and GPX link here. It goes like this: follow the OSM trail that goes from camping Poincenot to Laguna Sucia and then to Swiss Bivy/la Cueva. Once there, follow the trail a bit more (150 m) to get on top of the cliffy-like part of the slope, where it will be a bit flatter. Scramble horizontally to SE and then to E. The glacier is smaller than on the map - I got to its very end and crossed one of the small gullies near it. Then you traverse for some time on a less steep terrain, until you are roughly under a nameless lake. From there, go up. I took a ridge, which was fun, but easier would be to go up a slope. I got to about 1550 on the ridge that is above the lake from NW. Going down to the lake is a bit less slopy from there. There would be other ways, either going higher over this ridge, or even lower. One could also probably go straight up from the lake, or even with a bit bushbashing approach the lake from NE.

At the lake, I met a Swiss couple who slept there. They built a very nice tent space there. This was a coincidence, this does not seem like popular traverse (though I saw a paraglider launch from Loma de las Pizzaras, which had a trail to it on OSM; that is what the Swiss took saying the trail stops 500 m before the peak; from there they went down to a valley south of the peak and over a pass). I went through the pass cca 200 m from Loma de las Pizzaras (which had usable if a bit spotty 4G Claro internet), down a valley and then over a miniscule pass to SW to a lake that is not even on OSM [2024: I since added it to OSM] yet here: 49.3051327S, 72.9861450W - a good camping spot, so I stayed (it was a very sunny calm and reasonably warm day/night), but the place seems more sheltered than the other lake where I met the Swiss. Did not bother to build a windwall, sorry. I met 12 people all day, 7 out of which were climbers lolling about their tents, they camped both just before Laguna Sucio and at the Swiss bivy. Not sure if this is tolerated or you need a permit (or possibly climbing gear). Took me about 4 hours from Swiss bivy to Loma de las Pizzaras. Incredible views, ice kept falling from the glaciers, once even to the lake. Usually the ice is down by the time you hear the rumbling, but I was close enough to watch two falls. Also saw Condors again after a long time. A perfect day and I am out of superlatives describing it; I guess this is what makes some people crazy about Patagonia. Fitz Roy is actually the only place I knew about before coming to Chile after googling "long distance hike in South America" 16 months earlier.

The next day I went over a small pass to the west of the lake and then down, roughly aiming for end of variant D. Around 1050 m I crossed a stream (take water from it, there won't be much more) and kept it to my left, graduallly distancing myself from it to maybe 50-100m. There is a way between the greenery that does not involve BBing. Then you reach the forrest, which is open and you end up on the trail.

From there to El Chalten, it is a highway (200 people met?), very easy and pretty (autumn is coming), but annoying with people. I do not like El Chalten, going on to GPT40 before the weather turns horrible.

2024-Feb-24 to 2024-Feb-28 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / option 1 + Laguna Pollone + variant b + variant d / Yannick & Nolwenn

- Trail condition : easy path to follow - Water : easy to find - Camping spot : poincenot is a nice campsite, camping piedra del fraile doesn't accept card so you need cash - Weather : sunny and cloudy - Resupply : from villa O'Higgins - Overall : amazing section, the views are amazing, really worth it to do the Fitz Roy for the sunrise and leave the tent and bags at the Poincenot campsite

2024-Feb-13 / 4 day / Hiking / NOBO / RR / Charlie Gardner

Not much to add, super straightforward hiking area. Only addition I’d recommend is hiking through Poincenot camp (or staying there) and taking western route that connects with the trail to Lago Piedra Blancas. This section was empty and georgeous. The short hike up the boulder field to the lake is absolutely worth. Piedra del Fraile is an awesome little campsite and Refugio as well. We didn’t go any further North by hiking on this route.

2023-Jan-13 / 1 day / Packrafting / SOBO / RR + Option 2A / Tom Pieper

Not much to add. The free camping at gendarmeria argentina was indeed my most favourite 'official' camping spot of the entire GPT. Amazing view on Mt Fitz Roy in the evening! Talk to the gendarmeria. They might help organize boat transfer with a local farmer even outside the official hours. Tooked the motorboat in the morning, as wind was too strong to cross by packraft. Packrafting Rio de las vueltas was fun. Swift blue river which might a perfect packrafting river for beginners as there are no major obstacles. After every bend new stunning views on Mt Fitz Roy. Bring fishing equipment - a lot of trouts in there. I did not went for the lower part, but easily catched a ride via option 2A.

• 2024-Jan-03 / 1 day / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Stiina & Kris

We camped by the border control. It was raining all night and still in the morning but we decided to do the hike along Laguna Desierto. Surprisingly it wasn't as muddy and slippery as we expected but of course the streams were pretty big and everything got absolutely soaked during the rain. We reached the other end of the lake in less than three hours and there were lots of cars and tourists there. No phone signal. We started hiking along the road and after 5km got a ride to El Chalten.

The ferry doesn't go on Wednesdays, on Thursday it went at 11am from the side of the border control. Not sure of the price.

• 2023-Dec-16 to 2023-Dec-19 / 3.5 days / NOBO / El Chaltén - Lago del desierto / RR/ Alex & Christophe

It was a well marked section with amazing views. You nearly don't need your gps during the entire section and can enjoy the beautiful landscape. It felt like an easy first section for us.

The trail to Laguna torre was full of people but once we turned out of it, it was really ok.

The road walking between puente del río electrico and lago del desierto wasn't the most interesting but everything is better with a nice view!

• 2023 Anh OH-TL-V + RH-TL-V (Lago del Desierto)

OH-TL-V is easy for Gpt hikers. The trails are easy to find. Just for the left trail of Laguna Torre you have to rent Harness to cross river via Tyrolean traverse.

RH-TL-V along Lago del Desierto is easy to hike, official you should plan 6 hours. I just needed 4.5 hours (slow-normal speed) with heavy backpack (10 days food). Alternatively you can pay 55 USD (one way) for the ferry.

Season 2022/23

• 2023-Mar-19 to 2023-Mar-20 / 2 days / NOBO / El Chalten to Paso Fronterizo del Lago del desierto / Jess&Paco

Easy and wonderfull section especially the trail from lago Torre to Poincenot Camp passing by Lagos Madre e Hija.

Be carefull after leaving the national park camping El pilar and Laguna Condor are quite expensive. Laguna Condor even refused a group of 5 mochileros without reservation we met the day after. Also the camping Ricanor seems definively closed and the land is to sale. Pitching your tent in the nearby forest is possible but not really authorised. It can be tolerated. But like in the National park and the majority of campsite indicated on the GPT tracks absolutly no fires is allowed.

You can by snacks at the camping on the southern shore of Lago del desierto but it is not a good resuply spot.

• 2023-Mar-23 to 2023-Mar-26 / 4 days / SOBO / Lago del Desierto - El Chaltén / RR + option 1 + variant B / Anna & Christopher

What a contrast arriving from the last section without meeting anybody. At the southern end of Lago del Desierto there are lots of tourists. We continued from there around 3 p.m., when people slowly started to come back from their day trips. Our timing proved to be pretty good, because we got a ride after walking for a couple of minutes. There is also a bus to El Chaltén leaving atound 4 p.m. for 3.500 pesos.

The car dropped us at the bridge at km 31.8 where option 1 starts. That night we camped somewhere between the rocks next to the trail around km 8. Camping at Piedra del Fraile is 3.000 pesos.

The next day we knew it would rain in the afternoon so we got up early at sunrise, left our backpacks behind and went up to km 12.3 to get a nice view of the glacier. When the rain started, we fled to the hut at Piedra del Fraile to wait until it passes.

If one is short in time, we would recommend to skip this glacier, because the other options of GPT 39 are definitely more spectacular.

We loved the detour to Laguna Piedra blanca.

Due to the horror stories of mice at the official campgrounds, we decided to stay away and camped approx. 1km away from the campsite "Poincenot" that night.

The next day we got up early to see the sunrise at Lago de los Tres, which was beautiful, even though there were way more people than expected for sunrise ;)

Up there we saw one possible camping spot surrounded by a stone wall. With strong wind it's probably not the best shelter though.

The stretch to Laguna Torre is amazing. When we arrived there we could enjoy the spectacular view with sunny, windless weather for a while, before it suddenly got extremly windy and everyone looked for a shelter behind some rocks. We decided to return to the woods, camped there and wanted to continue with the options around Laguna Torre the next day.

When we went up to Laguna Torre the wind still was extremely strong and unfortunately all mountains were covered by clouds, so we quickly continued to El Chaltén.

• 2023-Mar-7 to 2023-Mar-14 / 2.5 days / SOBO / RR + Option 1 / Lago Desierto - El Chaltén / Ondrej

This section offers lot of impressive views of snowy peaks, turquoise rivers and glaciers - if one has the luck of a good weather. If you are going SOBO and want to do the weather-sensitive GPT40 afterwards, one way to reduce potential waiting days is to pause GPT39 once you get across Lago Desierto and hitchhike to El Chalten. This allows you to consult rangers in El Chalten about a good weather window for The Huemul Circuit (GPT40). You can complete the remainder of GPT39 while waiting for the weather window or after you have finished GPT40. I was on a relatively tight schedule and this strategy has worked well for me.

Starting from the Argentinian checkpoint at Lago Desierto around midday, I did the lake stretch in the afternoon (took me around 5 hours) and camped at the official campsite at the other side of the lake. The rates were 3,000 Argentinian pesos per person. They have hot water but the pressure is really really bad. They also have a new common room (more like a big refugio) where you can cook and recharge devices (if you have the argentian plug, which I didn’t). The campsite also sels some biscuits, chips etc. There was also a big restaurant bulding, however, it closed at 6pm so I didn’t have a chance to check it out.

On the second day I walked the road to the point where the trail branches off the road (km38.0). The road was quite scenic but in a hindsight the trail after km38.0 felt much more beautiful. Once you get closer to the trailhead you can observe the monumental Fitz Roy peak, weather permiting. In my case the forecast predicted rain all day. However, at noon the sky suddenly opened and after five gray days granted me beautiful views. This made me to change my strategy and hitch to El Chaltén from the crossroad (km38) hoping that I will be able to use this good weather window for the Huemul circuit (GPT40). This has indeed worked out.

I hitched back to the crossroad (km38.0) few days later and continued with Option 1 (Laguna Piedras Blancas - L. De Los Tres - L. Torre - El Chaltén) with light backpack in a single day as I was short on time. I would prefer to spend at least two days on this portiom, exploring the lagunas further away. Very scenic and mantained trails in general. Easy to jog some parts for those who enjoy trail running.

• 2023-Feb-17 to 2023-Feb-20 / 4 days / RR / SOBO / also all the optional routes to the various lagunas on the way to El Chaltén / Véronica & Zach

Route: Lago Del Desierto - Río Las Vueltas - resupply in El Chaltén - Lagos Eléctrico y Marconi - Lago Piedras Blancas - Lago de los Tres - Lago Torre

If packrafting Lago Desierto, consult the Gendarmaria for advice about current wind conditions. We can't speak about the trail or paddling along most of Lago del Desierto, thanks to a special encounter with a trail magician with a motorboat. We camped that night in a sheltered cove with a fantastic view of Monte Fitz Roy. The next morning, I walked ~3km to the south side of the lake while Zach packrafted down with a tailwind. We learned the ferry crosses the lake from south to north on Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday at 10 a.m., and returns from north to south those same days at 11 a.m.

We walked a scenic dirt road to the put-in for Río de las Vueltas. From there, Zach packrafted and I walked the road. There were no signs along the river prohibiting paddling, but we heard you need a permit to go all the way into El Chaltén.

We resupplied in El Chaltén that evening, then the next morning hitched back up to Bridge, X {39} [31.7/449], where Option 1 starts. For the next three days, we walked beautiful, well-maintained trails to the lagunas and viewpoints in the vicinity of Monte Fitz Roy. Most of them are out-and-back, and you can easily stash your backpack and walk unencumbered to the glaciers and lakes. Note: Option 39-E requires a harness to cross on a Tyrolean cable, or a burly ford.

• 2022-Dec-29 to 2023-Jan-01 / Helen and Craig

>Well marked trails. Very busy on sunny days, Incredibly dusty camp sites in high winds (but nicely sheltered)

>Really sad amount of rubbish around the trail. Maybe because of this reason mice are a real proplem around the camp sites. *Secure food* (we have taken to sleeping with all food in the main compartment of our tent and don't trust drysacks and backpacks alone to protect). We picked up the bits we could carry but sad to see. Worst littering we have seen anywhere in Patagonia. Wished I had a bigger trash bag to pick up.

>We walked a very leisurely 3 night loop with side trails in high winds whilst waiting for a weather window for GPT40. Then hitchhiked up to rejoin the trail at Lago Desertio.

>To avoid the crowds, the popular miadors we walked to at odd times of day, sunset for the 'sunrise' veiw. Very much Worth it.

• 2022-Dec-09 to 2022-Dec-11 / 2 half days & 1 full day walking / SOBO / Frank

I came from Candelario Mansilla & continued on the trail round Laguna del Desierto the same day. It was slow going around the lake with lots of up & down over bluffs. At the end of the lake I crossed over a bridge (inflow stream for the lake) Just after the bridge there is a restaurant, (closed in the evening), campsite & hut. I stayed in the hut (no beds but in good condition, slept on the wooden floor) From the campsite a trail goes up to Laguna Huemul, about 1 hour up. A worthwhile detour with good views of Glaciar Huemul. Next day I continued on the road then on the trail towards Laguna de los Tres. The high campsite was very busy & noisy so I continued down to Laguna Capri & camped there, better but still noisy. Lots of people on the trail also, a big change to the previous sections. From Laguna Capri I continued easily down to El Chalten. 2 half days & 1 full day walking.

Season 2019/20

• 2020-Jan-18 / NOBO / Oreste

The campground Ricanor near to Laguna Azul was close for maintenance when I passed there.

• 2020-Jan-16 / NOBO / Oreste Marquis

Two first day were on the regular route. Could not see the Fotz Roy from close because of the cloud but still enjoyable route. I hitchike at the end of the second day and did not walk on the road to Lago del desierto because the camping Ricanor nesr to Laguna Azul was close for maintenance so I camp at the one close to the Lago.

• 2019-Dec / 2 days / NOBO / Matthieu

Trail easy to follow for the parts in the wood before the road. Long road to The Lago Desierto, and a possibility to take a boat on the Lago to join the post of Gendarmeria. The walk by the lake is beautiful though, worth it.

No special difficulties.

• 2019-Dec-14 / Arnaud et Adriane

It was a very rainy, windy and cold day so we walked to the road 12km (along the lago del desierto) and after 6 km on the road, we finished hitchhiking directly to El Chalten. Everything was covered with clouds so we sadly saw nothing.

• 2019-Nov-9 / 2 days / Regular hiking route / NOBO / Lea Geibel, Kevin Moe

The highlight of this section for us was visiting all the lagunas in the national park! We cheated and hitch hiked along the road when we hit it after El Pilar. It was not difficult to get a car in the morning when tourists are heading out to Lago Desierto; it might be harder to find one northbound in the evening would be my guess. It's necessary to pay to camp at Desierto, 800 Argentinian Pesos each, and it is not allowed to camp along the road.

Season 2017/18

• Route description by Kara Davis after Season 2017/18:

Section GPT39 begins on the northern bank of Lago del Desierto. According to the Gendarmería, the Argentine Border Control, the wind patterns on the lake are unpredictable and shift frequently. There is also no good access to the trail on the east side if bailing becomes a necessity, so have caution when deciding whether to packraft or not.

Comment by Jan Dudeck: Lago del Desierto is an innocent looking beast. While very calm at the put in heavy wind at the middle of the lake can make a traverse demanding and dangerous.

There is a well-established trail that runs along the east side of the lake. However, it isn’t flat, and the 11 or so kilometers takes longer than expected. There is an option to take a ferry across the lake which is popular with Carretera Austral bicyclers. More information regarding times and prices can be found at the Argentine border control station on the north side of Lago del Desierto.

Hungry hikers are rewarded when they reach the south end of the lake. A burger stand with some snack options is located here along with an established campground with showers, flush toilets, and a communal kitchen.

Walk along RP23, a gravel road, for several kilometers until reaching the put-in for the packrafting section of Río de las Vueltas, which is a sloped rocky beach. The serpentine river section before Lago Condor is fairly swift with no rapids, only some wooden snags. After Lago Condor, the river widens and forms many braided channels.

Alternate: Instead of exiting Río de las Vueltas onto RP23 as shown by the GPS track, we floated the river al the way to El Chaltén and took out just after the bridge crossing east of the town.

Comment by Jan Dudeck: To my knowledge packrafting the Rio de las Vueltas all the way to El Chalten requires a permit by the park rangers. Without this permit park rangers might get very nasty and may even confiscate your packraft. So better leave the river before this river enters the national park. Packraft track OP-RI-1@39-02-# only if you have a permit.

Resupply and Accommodation

Resupply and Accommodation in nearby Towns

• El Chaltén is a medium sized town with several hostels, restaurants, and decent resupply options. There were also a few outdoor gear outfitters which offered rentals for the famous Huemul Circuit (GPT40).

Resupply and Accommodation along the Route

• 2023 / Jess&Paco

You can by snacks at the camping on the southern shore of Lago del desierto but it is not a good resuply spot.

Transport to and from Route

2023: There is a bus every evening at 8PM from El Chalten to Los Antiguos, arriving at about 7AM. The bus continues to Esquel, El Bolson & Bariloche. From Los Antiguos you can go by local taxi or hitch to the border & Chile Chico (there is no longer a bus across the border) There is also a bus once a day from Los Antiguos to El Chalten.

Links to other Resources

Retired Section Article GPT39 - Monte Fitz Roy