GPT29P (Valle Picacho)

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Summary with remarks to route that are considered useful for other hikers and packrafters. Include alerts, suggestions and personal perception of attractiveness and difficulties.

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Section Log, Alerts and Suggestions

Season 2023/24

• 2024-Feb-03 to 2024-Feb-09 / 3.5 days NOBO+1.5 days SOBO / Packrafting / Flipflop / RP / Lauren, Sebastian & Daniel

To reach the intersection that leads to wp “GPT29PN start” we took the bus from Puerto Cisnes to Mañihuales (and Coyhaique) which leaves Mon-Sat at 5:30am and Sun at 9am. Book your tickets on kupos.cl.

Day 1: We hiked (and shortly hitchhiked) on the MR until the start of 29PN-04A and started to paddle Rio Picacho. Even though the first 1km was quite fun, we quickly came up on a rapid which featured a strong current and lots of wood if you go down straight. Daniel managed to go down the right side upon receiving the info but it’s impossible to see from further up yourself and conditions might change. In general the current will try to push you left over a log on which our boat ran aground before going down the small drop and making a sharp turn into the small canyon. Once in the canyon we needed to portage, as the tiny passage in the canyon was completely blocked with wood. It was possible to portage fairly easily, but in general we would recommend to NOT do 29PN-04A and to start with RP at the normal starting point. After the initial hickup, Rio Picacho was pure joy with many class I-II rapids with narrow turns. We camped at -44.93007, -72.49047.

Day 2: We continued down Rio Picacho and eventually reached Lago Copa. The water level was low and we were not able to safely run the first rapid. It was possible to portage around the first rapid along the rocks on the left side of the rapid without going through any vegetation. For the second rapid we had a slight misconception regarding the earlier accounts and deflated our boats and tried to follow the RP by using the bypass on an abandoned settler’s trail. After not being able to make more than 200m/hour through dense forest and looking for the elusive trail that often led to a dead end, we re-read Jan&Team’s account and realized that we could probably also portage this rapid along the rocks (Note: recommend to look at the 2 videos we posted on Facebook. It’s important to make a safe assessment for yourself regarding suitability of water level as once you enter the gorge, high water conditions will make it a point of no return. 2nd rapid is impossible to scout before entering the gorge). We went back to the lake, set up the boats again and found that we could portage this second rapid by staying on the right side. We lost two hours clearing around 400m of the estimated 2.5km old trail, but were glad that we didn’t have to fight an entire day with the bushes! We crossed Lago Copa 3 and portaged through the forest on good trail without deflating the boats. By that time winds had picked up and we had to stay put for the rest of the day. We set up camp in the forest just before going down to the rocks. It was a bit tight but very well sheltered to sit out the night’s storm.

Day 3: We started early to cross Lago Copa 4 and 5 and to make our way into the mandatory bush-bashing section. The trail made by Jan and Team is still very well visible, and GPT packrafter Jordan had informed us that he has traveled this route a few weeks ago and worked on it with his machete as well. It was not difficult to follow the trail and we hardly lost the way, but it was overall pretty tough and slow walking. In the current condition a machete was not necessary, but we had ours handy and used it along the entire trail to help keep it open. Even though right now it’s not absolutely necessary to use a machete, every team should bring one on this trail to help keep it open, as no other people are using this trail which will be easily taken over by vegetation. We took an easy 2-3 hours for this bushbashing part. After we reached Lago Escondido, we paddled to wp Camp {29PN} [64.4+0.5/11] and stayed the night.

Day 4: We paddled down Rio Cisnes to the fjord back into Puerto Cisnes. There was incoming weather which we managed to closely avoid but the waves can easily build up in rain conditions.

Overall a section despite being filled with some challenges, remains one of our favourites on the GPT hence far due to Lago Copa’s remoteness and tranquility.

29RP SOBO Río Mañihuales has no mentionable difficulties, except the two indicated rapids where we decided to line the boat. We did the flipflop by taking the bus from Puerto Cisnes all the way to put in at WP ‘GPT29P-AH end’. This makes sense for us as it avoids the numerous portaging by the road. An enjoyable ride on Río Mañihuales with good flow speed that led us right to Río Aysén and Puerto Aysén where we ended to resupply. It is however a big contrast to the tranquility of 29NOBO, as it is near the road.

Season 2021/22

• 2022-Jan-04 to 2022-Jan-06 / Tobias Schorcht / Northbound / Regular Packrafting Route from Picaflor to Puerto Cisnes / 2.5 days

Exploring this Remote Valley was one of my favourite parts of the southern GPT. Since there were some days with heavy rain before I went, water levels were high. Many rapids class 2 let me enjoy the Rio Picacho a lot. Such a wild and mystic place! The first rapid of Lago Copa could be packrafted as well, the 3 other rapids I needed to bypass, which was VERY challenging, because I didn‘t bring a machete (stupid me). It took me 4 hours to bypass the second rapid of Lago copa (only 2,5 Kilometers!). Don’t ask how I managed to get through that dense Jungle, but there was also no way back. I looked very funny afterwards. The third Rapid on Lago copa is „easy“ to Bypass. Thanks to Tobias Hellwig, Ricardo Campos , Jen Ni and Meylin Elisabeth Ubilla González for cleaning up the last bypass from Lago Copa to Lago Escondido in 2019!! The Trail is still visible, only some parts are overgrown. I highly recommend to read there well written and detailed Report below.

Season 2019/20

• 2020-Jan-28 to 2020-Jan-29 / Southbound / Regular Packrafting Route from Picaflor to Puente Mañihuales / 3.5 days

From the crossing “Picaflor” on the Carratera Austral, follow the dirt road and Rio Picaflor for roughly 11km until you meet Rio Mañihuales.

I wanted to put in further upstream on Rio Picaflor, which is a pretty-looking small river, but there are too many fallen trees accross the water and it didn't seem to be worth the effort. The Upper Mañihuales, then, is a narrow, shallow, slow-moving river. Some parts are already so shallow in January that you'll touch bottom regardless of your skills at reading rivers. It's a nice little stroll for about 10km. While the scenery is not impressive at the start it improves dramatically as you progress. After paddling for about 12km, you hit a first, fun rapid. Quickly, a second rapid that you should scout first (impressive drop). Then quickly a third, scary-looking one. It might not be very technical but it sure looks like the kind of rapid you don't wanna go into solo. It marks the start of a long, Class-IV section. Fortunately, you can easily take out and reach the Carretera Austral nearby. You have about 6km left to reach Villa Mañihuales. I would strongly advise against going solo from there on. This first section takes about 3 hours.

You can of course easily resupply and camp in Villa Mañihuales, which is a pretty little town.

You can then get back into Rio Mañihuales from Puente Mañihuales II, roughly 22km south of Villa Mañihuales on the Carretera Austral. The road from Villa Mañihuales to the bridge is stunning and so is the Rio, with crystal clear water. Experienced paddlers should not have any problems. Others should proceed with caution in the first few rapids (one that you should scouted first, I think it was the third one). Quite a few dead trees and branches are stuck in the rapids. Again, proceed with caution.

No hazard once you've paddled accross the first couple km.

On the day of that trip, head winds were getting quite strong while approaching the valley where Puerto Aysen lies. Taking out at Puente Mañihuales I, I covered the 20km in roughly 3,5 hours.

Season 2017/18

• 2018-Jan-11 to 2018-Jan-14 / Meylin Ubilla, Jen Ni, Tobias Hellwig, Ricardo Campos, Jan Dudeck / Northbound / Regular Packrafting Route from Picaflor to Puerto Cisnes / 3.5 days

Attractiveness

This packrafting section is a hidden treasure for experienced packrafters that enjoy particularly remote areas and don’t mind to bushwhack through dense forest. Very few people in this region even heard about these places making this traverse a journey into mystic place.

Difficulty

The hard to predict river and lake water levels, the demanding bush-bashing and one not fully researched portage mean that this section remains an exploration section.

Packrafting was not excessively demanding but only if the lake rapids are portered along the regular packrafting route. Wind on Lago Copa was as expected against the travel direction but manageable.

After heavy rain the lake levels rise quickly, therefore camping close to water should be avoided in rain or instable weather. We noticed a 0.3 m rise in one night. Driftwood in elevated areas indicates seasonal water level changes of up to 3 m! Also, the rapids along Lago Copa appear to change significant depending on the lake water level. We have seen the final rapid where Lago Copa drains into Lago Escondido from Lago Escondido once after weeks of heavy rain in January 2018 and a second time now after average summer weather in January 2019 and the situation was completely different.

The 2 km of bush-bashing are very slow going. This is probably the most overgrown piece of regular route of the entire GPT. Machetes are required.

History of this route

The first documented traverse of this route was made by the explorer Augusto Grosse in 1944. Grosse with a couple of man explored this valley all the way to the port town Puerto Cisnes at the Pacific Ocean with a wooden boat.

One or two decades later the first settlers attempted to “hacer patria” along the lakes and rivers of this valley. At both sides of Rio Picacho you still find cattle pastures and a couple of houses but all settlers left Lago Copa and only one settler remains on the more accessible side of Lago Escondido (Don Transito Lopez). A last visible reminder of the settling attempt at Lago Copa are two abandoned fishing lodges; one smashed by landslide and the other one still standing offering some shelter before it will collapse in a couple of years.

We slept one night on the terrace under the roof of the abandoned building at Kilometer 47.8 (was a luxury fishing lodge, located right after where Rio Picacho flows into Lago Copa on the right Lake shore). Having a roof in rain was a delight but it remains unclear when this building collapses.

We heard that occasionally motor boats travel on Rio Picacho to Lago Copa for exclusive fishing tours but they probably do no pass the first rapid on Lago Copa and certainly not the second rapid.

Timing

The impressive mountains, powerful rivers, pristine lakes and engulfing forests are not welcoming human visitors all year around but someone must choose the timing of a traverse wisely. Snowmelt and rain quickly change the level of the rivers and the shoreline of the lakes reveals water level fluctuations of 3 m or even more.

Decades ago settlers moved up and down the valley using wooden rowing boats in the lakes and a few short trails between the lakes to bypass potential mortal rapids. We found these portage trails completely overgrown and a couple of machetes were as essential as our packrafts to complete this traverse. So someone must arrive prepared to battle his way through the short but overgrown portages as vegetation quickly recaptures the previous well maintained trails.

The traverse from the first put in is nearly completely on water with: 42 km on rivers 18 km on lakes 3 km on a fjord and 2 km demanding bush-bashing.

Arrival to Trail Head

We went by car to the first river put in. Public transportation gets you the crossing “Picaflor” on the Carratera Austral from where it is a 14 km walk on a dirt road to the Rio Picacho put in.

Resupply on the Trail

There is no resupply all the way to Puerto Cisnes but the high packrafting ratio permits carrying lots of food (and beer and wine?) without a significant weight penalty. Therefore pack plenty of food to have a contingency reserve in this difficult to predict terrain.

Part 1: Rio Picacho

At the first put in the river water level was just sufficient to mostly avoid ground contacts. This was after some rain in the days before our trip. So in a dry period it might be advisable to hike further downstream on the left or right side of the river before starting to packraft. A couple of easy to moderate rapids can either be paddled or portered. This conclusion is based on the moderate river water level when we packrafted Rio Picacho.

Part 2: Lago Copa

Lago Copa changes the water level quickly and substantially. We have seen wood washed on shore about 3 m above the water level compared to the level when we packrafted the lake. During the night we spend on the lake the water level was rising an estimated 0.3 m after a day with moderate rain.

Lago Copa is divided by 3 significant rapids into 4 sub-lakes before it flows in a last long rapid into Lago Escondido. All rapids can portered and most should be portered.

First Rapid: The first rapid was safe to packraft and also a portage would have been reasonable easy. The portage requires opening a passage of about 50 m through not particular dense forest on the left side of the rapid.

Second Rapid: A particular challenge is the second of the three rapids that is located halfway in a 300 m long gorge. We could porter this rapid right on the right edge in the gorge but with a slightly higher water this would not have been possible. This rapid can also not safely be scouted as the “point of no return” is right on the entrance of the gorge. The safest option to bypass this second rapid is therefore opening an old completely overgrown 700 to 800 m long portage trail through dense forest. This will take about one full day. The old trail starts on an collapsed settlers home on the left side just before the entrance into the gorge and leads counterclockwise around the rather round hill that forms the left side of the gorge.

Third Rapid: The third rapid appeared as unsafe to paddle as the second rapid so we searched a portage. We found about 100 m to the right of the rapid a wooden boat tight to a tree and there a still visible trail started. We opened this 100 m long trail by machete and ported the packrafts without deflating them.

Part 3: Lago Copa to Lago Escondido

We investigated this portage a year ago in January 2018 from Lago Escondido going upstream starting in Puerto Cisnes. We found signs of a trail and partially cleaned and recorded this trail but very dense vegetation and deteriorating weather stopped us halfway before reaching Lago Copa. This partial GPS record was a very useful hint where to search this portage from the opposite end in Lago Copa. A old piece of rope hanging down from a tree was the vital sign that pointed us directly to the trail head when researching the lake shore for the start of the portage from Lago Copa to Lago Escondido.

This roughly 1 km long portage trail was in parts still visible but completely overgrown. In order to reopen this route for future packrafters we made the effort to search and thoroughly clean this portage trail. With 5 people and 4 machetes we were working our way to Lago Escondido in about 5 to 6 hours leaving a now well visible and open route through the dense forrest. But the rapidly growing vegetation makes it necessary that any packrafter carries a machete to keep the passage open and visible.

Part 4: Lago Escondido

Paddling this pristine mountain lake on the evening of the 3rd day was our premium after nearly one day of bushwhacking.

Part 5: Rio Cisnes and Puerto Cisnes

There is a moderate rapid in the outlet of Lago Escondido just before it joins Rio Cisnes. We packrafted the rapid but a portage is also possible. The rapid is less powerful during high tide as this lower part if Rio Cisnes is affected by tides.

The paddle on Rio Cisnes and through the fjord to Puerto Cisnes is easy as long not facing heavy head wind.

We highly enjoyed researching and reopening this section with Tobias Hellwig and Ricardo Campos, two Chileans living in Coyhaique and with Jenni, a GPT hiker of the “GPT class 2018/19”. Without them we would have struggled much more and much longer on this particular depopulated section.

Resupply and Accommodation

Resupply and Accommodation in nearby Towns

• 2020

You can easily resupply and camp in Villa Mañihuales, which is a pretty little town.

Resupply and Accommodation along the Route

• 2018 / Meylin Ubilla, Jen Ni, Tobias Hellwig, Ricardo Campos, Jan Dudeck

There is no resupply all the way to Puerto Cisnes but the high packrafting ratio permits carrying lots of food (and beer and wine?) without a significant weight penalty. Therefore pack plenty of food to have a contingency reserve in this difficult to predict terrain.

Links to other Resources

Retired Section Article GPT29P - Valle Picacho