GPT09 (Volcan Antuco)

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Section Log, Alerts and Suggestions

Season 2023/24

2024-03-19 to 2024-03-21 // 2 days (one day off due to the horrible weather) // Hiking // NOBO // RR + VARIANT C + VARIANT B // Quentin Clavel

I then continue my way threw GPT 09 (went from GPT 12 to 09 straight).

Easy track to follow all along, until the volcanic plateau. It's kind of an highway of arieros! I met a lot, all very nice, some of them quite curious of what my itinerary looks like.

Pass after trapa trapa was a bit hard because of the heat, and because I began to be a tired, I had to do few breaks.

Then arriving on a plateau, going down and pretty flat after, very well marques, on some part very sandy. After that you arrive on the big straight lines part, that was so exciting for me, the scenery are so nice that I was even a bit happy to walk on gravel roads aha. Weather begun to be very windy on the plateau that reminds me some hard times on the bloody tierra del fuego !

I was absolutely so happy to find an abandoned puesto that was a perfect shelter for an extremely windy, cold and rainy night. This shelter is located few meters on the right after the Ford {09} [37.0/1512].

As the weather was terrible the day after (snow on all the summits around and still heavy rain) I stopped for one day. One local, that live in a puesto around was curious and came by, we discuss and asked for the authorisation to stay there, and he said it was not a problem at all.

Day after was stunning, I was so happy to skip the rain to have this lovely weather for the end of this amazing section !

Took variant C, had nice talks with carabineros, no problem at all to pass there now as long as you explain the situation. This option si very scenic, again, I was amazed from the volcan and the nice geometry of it, and the gravel road who's going on the way.

Then CC on variant B, straight after the big house and the bus that sell food at the middle of nowhere !

I was amazed from the landscapes, antuco volcan for sure, but the amazing siella velluda también !

Teaching the pass, then continuing CC until reaching PK 11,89, and fond a well marked track until the road.

I strongly hesitated to go up to the summit, but as there were a lot of fresh snow and it was pretty windy, I decide to continue my way, still very happy of the scenery I saw there !

Reaching the road, then hitchhiking to antuco + bus to Los Angeles (7pm) for a porper break, before coming back on this point and going to GPT08.

AGAIN, I loved this section !

• 2024-03-24 to 2024-03-25 / 2 days / SOBO / RR + var D / Marilyne

Day 1 - It was Sunday and few buses were running so I took a “taxi” from Antuco to the start of the trail up the pass. (Owner of my lodging called up one of his friends who sometimes drives Uber around town). 15k to go to the National Park. Park rangers told me that I didn’t have to pay entrance fees since I was crossing the park and not coming back the same way. Many other hikers were there on a Sunday on the first part of the trail. Enjoyed the day very much and thought the scenery was beautiful. People at the puesto next to second ford of Rio de los Pinos offered me to stay with them but I declined as I was hoping to do this section in 2 days and wanted to hike a little further. Camped shortly after Ford {09} [37.0/1512].

Day 2 - Kept going on the RR until Trapa Trapa. Stopped at the kiosco to buy cookies and chocolate (melted as that little hut in the sun gets hot!). Kept going right away on GPT10.

• 2024-Mar-7 to 2024-Mar-8 / 1.5 days / SOBO / RR 2 C D/ Matthias de Austria

Bus from Antuco to Abanico at 8:30am (tell driver you want out at the junction to Abanico). Partly hiked but mostly hitched up to the lake (very little traffic, I was lucky). I choose Variant 2 (an easy road) as my rucksack was so heavy (plan doing Section 9 to 12). Lots of small memorials spreaded out for the soldiers died in a blizzard a few years ago. There was a military training going on, so I passed a lot of small groups of soldiers. All friendly. Later a local familiy asked if I want a ride, sure! We pass the bordercontrol on C2.5km, police just waives us through from a distance. Soon they reach their picknickspot and I continue walking on that long and empty road.

No snowfields, plenty of (unmarked) water, fordings very easy, almost no Tabanos.

Did not see the shop in Trapa-Trapa, but had plenty of food anyway, so put no efford in searching. No cellphone connection in Trapa-Trapa with Movistar. Nice views of Vulcan Antuco and Laguna de La Laya, otherwise not much to see. Nice, short and easy section (though I did not hiked the pass and had 2 long hitchhikes).

• 2024 Feb 25 to Feb 28 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Juliette and Martin

We combined sections 09 and 10 into 5 days of hiking. Beautiful sections with a diversity of landscapes: volcano, meadows, puestos...

Transport to start of section: Albanico Bus Los Angeles - Albanico at 5 p.m. from rural bus terminal Hitch-hike to Lagunillas campsite (10,000 pesos pp per night, they also sell empanadas, which are very good, plus there's hot water).

Day 1: Lagunillas campsite - Bridge (-37.46204, -71.31305)

Lovely day and beautiful volcanic scenery. Not much shade on the climb. Rather pleasant bivouac spot, along the water, with grass and shade, rather cold night as our wet clothes froze at night. Water nearby (estero del volcano)

Day 2: Bridge (-37.46204, -71.31305)- Camp -37.62833, -71.24444

Beautiful day, with a few easy river crossings (maximum knee-deep). There's plenty of vegetation and shade, which is great for breaks. The camp spot is just a few meters from a puesto, and they offered to let us pitch our tent. Night still cold (frost).

Day 3: Camp -37.62833, -71.24444 - Trapa Trapa

Easier and shorter day than the others, but we followed it up with the start of section 10 so as not to sleep in Trapa Trapa. Not much choice in the mini-shops in Trapa Trapa.

• 2024-Feb 09 to Feb 13 / 5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR, Var C, Var D / Michael and Kasia

We combined sections 9, 10, and 11 together.

Day 0 - Feb 8th

We left Antuco around 13:00. It took two hitches to get us to Lagunillas campground (also called Parque Antuco camping). We were lucky that the second car was actually going to the campground and took us right to reception. Posted price was 10.000 CLP pp. There are about 20 campsites. Each had a picnic table and an electrical plugin, and one of the two bathrooms had showers with hot water. We were not blown away by the campground, however we were just coming from a hostel rather than coming out of the mountains, and perspective counts for a lot. They ask you to pack your trash out. They have a small tienda where they sell prepared food, but nothing for resupply.

Day 1 - Feb 9th

From Lagunillas we took an OSM track directly across the road. The trail is clearly marked and maintained. It goes through native forest with nice views of the mountains and lava fields. There are at least two waterpoints along the way. The OSM trail connects in with RR.

The trail up is fairly well maintained, no brush overgrowth in the path and no places where the trail has collapsed. The path through the lava field was amazing, and the views of Sierra Velluda were spectacular. It is a fairly popular path. On a Friday about 15 other people were on the trail.

We had already decided we wanted to break the pass into two days if possible. We set up camp at the Campamento Anfiteatro or Amphitheatre Camping (-37.42427, -71.41517). It has a nice view of the glacier on Sierra Velluda and some shade in the afternoon.

If deciding to stay at the amphitheater camping area, there is water on the opposite side of the plane. There is a very large waterfall that is visible from a long distance. Walking toward it, a little to the east (left side) is a smaller waterfall that becomes visible about halfway across. It had very clear water and a pool that is easy to access. There was also a stream that appeared in the late evening about 50 m from the campsite but disappeared again overnight.

Day 2 - Feb 10th

There was water shortly after beginning up RR from Anfiteatro for some distance. The path is on the right side of the dry river bed as you are going up. We got confused and walked part way up the left side before realizing and had to backtrack to get to the correct side. There was still one very small snow field on the other side of the pass, but the trail curved around the right side of it so there was no need to walk on it. Expansive views of the valley on the way down. The trail was easy to see and follow most of the way. At the bottom we just went cross country. We camped at the larger of the two araucarias (-37.46186, -71.32047) in what looked like a arriero campground. The campsite at the smaller araucaria shortly before it looked a little nicer but required crossing the river and looked less wind protected.

Day 3 - Feb 11th

We got a late start. It was a Sunday and there was a fair amount of traffic on the road so we decided to go crosscountry from the bridge and cut the loop to connect in with Var C. It was dry in some places, swampy in others, and we eventually had to switch to water shoes to cross the river. It probably didn't save any time, but it was definitely more interesting and avoided getting blasted by dust with every passing car. We rejoined the road on the far side. The afternoon had a cloud cover and actually got fairly cool which made the road walk much more enjoyable. Once we got onto the spur road just before the BCP we didn't see any more cars or people for the rest of the day. We camped on the uphill side of the road around (-37.57617, -71.24087) which looked to be an arriero campground. Very dusty but there was a reasonably flat spot and a small stream nearby.

Day 4 - Feb 12th

We continued on RR. The valley was pretty, not too much happening. There were a lot of puestos but we saw only a couple of people and not too many animals. We stopped at the estero just before heading up to refill water and have lunch. We were initially going to take Opt 3B because it was shorter, but after seeing how exposed it was and some sketchy parts early on, we turned back and opted for RR. The path was easy to follow and actually in pretty good condition. It went through some beautiful forest which also provided some much needed shade. We took Var D down and did not encounter any dangerous scree. This section is also a little shorter than RR and passed by the river so one can refill if necessary. We were glad we took Var D. We decided to camp about 1km before Trappa Trappa along the river around (-37.70803, -71.24448). It was right next to the road, so far from optimal, but it worked.

Day 5 - Feb 13th

We walked into Trappa Trappa around 11:00. It was very windy the entire time we were there, and almost no one around. We first went to the shop with the Kiosko sign, but no one was there. A neighbor came out and told us that the guy works in the school till around 14:00, but would be around later. We then went to the shop indicated by the Provisiones sign. She didn't have a lot. She said the food truck was coming that day around 18:00, so I guess we just got unlucky with the timing. We bought some pasta, cookies, yogurts, Zukos, canned fish, crackers, and she made us sopaipillas for 300 each. They were really good but a very different style from the ones we had had with the arrieros, more pastry-like, fried crispy on the outside but still doughy on the inside and more oily. Very filling but I don't think they would work well to carry. We went back to the Kiosko shop and the guy came when we rang the timbre. He had even less stuff, mostly cookies. We bought a few more things there. Finally we went to the shop just at the beginning of Section 10. It is on the left just as you start down the hill, a corrugated metal wall with a large square cut out of the side that acts like a window and the word “Hola” scratched into the side. She had the least amount of things, but she did have fresh onions and carrots, no cheese (she said she makes it in December and when it's gone that's it for the year). Initially she said she didn't have any bread, but as we were talking with her she offered to sell us a bread, a pan amasado that was huge and dense and served us for three meals. From here we continued into GPT10.

• 2024-Feb-11 to 2024-Feb-13 / 2.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + OH B + C + D / Joscha

I combined section 9 to 12. It took me 7.5 days in total.

Day 1: RR [5.8-9.6]

I hitched in the afternoon from Los Angeles to the entrance of the Parque Nacional Laguna del Laja (around km 5.8). From there I hiked to km 9.6. Here are some nice flat spots to camp + you have a nice view over the Rio Laja valley. But there is no water at the spot.

Day 2: RR [9.6-20.7] + OH09-B + OH09-C + RR [34.9-47.4]

Big flat, sandy area around km 11.9 is a good campingspot. There is also a creek flowing not more than 50 meters south of the RR-CC [11.9+4.9]. The RR over the Pass (km 16.8) is completely snow free now. The RR and OH-B cross a creek at km 20.8. There is lots of water on OH B + C + RR [34.9-47.4].

Day 3: RR [47.4-54.6] + OH09-D + RR [56.4-61.5]

Ford at km 52.3 is dry. But the RR cross a bunch of streams around the Pass (km 50.4) and it runs along the river of the valley at km 53.2 for a few 100 meters. I just went through Trapa Trapa and continued directly with section 10.

• 2024-Feb-15 to 2024-Feb-18 / 4 days / Hiking / NOBO / Trapa-Trapa - El Abanaico / RR + Option 01 + Option B + Option C +Option D / Alex & Christophe

We really enjoyed this section even if it wasn't really fast to walk in the sand and lava field.

We didn't have much to add to what has already been written.

We tried to summit the Antuco Volcano bit didn't success because it was too steep and too lose so we stopped at 2700m. I would recommend to take crampons if you want to summit, so you can go in the snow (wich was quite hard, even at 2pm) and it should be easier. What I would however recommend to everyone is to go up to 2300m. It is easy to go from the pass and the panorama is incredible.

We camped after the try on the Volcano at the Amphitheatre Campsite. It was a nice place but I wouldn't recommend it. First, you have to walk a kilometer just to wash yourself and to take some water and second, we had strong wind gusts all night long. The camp is not wind protected.

• 2024-Jan-12 to 2024-Jan-13 / 2 days / SOBO / RR, OH C, OH 03B and OH 03/ Hannes

Started in Camping Las Lagunillas at around 7 am. Took me about 4 to 5 hours to the pass. On the way up I found water starting from -37.423109 -71.404405 onwards, followed along. Big stream, should not dry out soon or never(?) during summer. At the pass still to much snow to drop in directly to the path on the other side. Instead of walking upwards to the left towards volcano I took short detour to the right, to come around the snowfield, for me worked out well. Slided then down on the lower and not so steep snowfields to get to a basin. Reached from there the RR…Thought could be tough to ford estero Petronquines on the RR, so took the road (OH C)…Two police stations there, nobody checked me, although cars were at each spot… somehow an annoying road to walk on…you could hitchhike a part of it, there is some traffic, but not to much. I did not. Camped at a beautiful spot at the river -37.511560, -71.259157 a few kms before the landmark. There is life here all along the road, lots of puestos, cows, sheep, goats. Next day again along this endless seeming road up to the pass above Trapa Trapa, water all along, even at the pass…From there I took OH 03B, which is the shorter way to the village, OH03 from -37.69671, -71.25027 was in some parts a light BB till I got on a good trail which brought me down to Trapa. Descending down the pass to the village you’ll get an other version of Chile. Araucania trees are showing up and you are now in Mapuche region, no more chilean flags at every house down there. End of this sector was for me the biggest change on the GPT so far (having done the sections before from Santiago)…other people, language, culture, other flora…a kind of a very welcoming change. Arriving in Trapa Trapa you could give a try at owner of house at -37.71056, -71.26569, junction OH03 and main road. He offered me camping and food if I couldn’t find something in town. If not there is the usual family who takes guests. Miniminishop is at -37.71240, -71.26355

• 2024-Jan-01 to 2024-Jan-03 / 2.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR - {09-B} - {09-C} - RR - {09-D} - RR / Lilian

I combined GPT09+10+11+12, first resupply 6 days food in Antuco, then take 2.5 days for 09, stay in Trapa Trapa(save 2 meals), resupply in Trapa Trapa for 1.5 days food(low stock and limited selection). Then take 2 days for 10, stay in Guallalí(save 2 meals), resupply in Guallalí for 2 days food(low stock and limited selection but better than Trapa Trapa). Lastly 2 days for 11, 4 days for 12)

Nice resupply in Antuco, but most of them are closed because i visit here on the first day of 2024.

A friendly local give me a ride to the entrance of national park, thank you so much to him! There are some beautiful waterfalls start at RR km2.3 to km4.7, remember to take a look, they are at the mountain side(right side)! Lot of families come to here for enjoy their holidays.

RR km5.7 : ranger station for vehicles and people control for entering the park. Super nice and let me go in after i told them my route, no need to pay any fee or show any permits.

Park ranger[8.4/1110] : look like is a ranger station, didn't see anyone when I passed here on 5.30pm.

Km9.7 : flat area, you can camp here if need, but no water.

Km11.25 - km11.9 : lava trail, there are some rock cairn for you to follow, not difficult.

Km11.9 : if you continue going south at the RR sharp turning, about 200m you will met a stream, flowing good with cold and clear water, flat spots nearby too, but I'm not sure it will dry up or not.

Follow rock cairn to the pass, mostly you'll lost the trail and cairn at km15.6, look at the right side, go down the dry riverbed then climb up to the other side, you'll find cairn again. Don't walk in riverbed, they'll block your way at the end.

Still lot of snow after the pass, follow Véronica's comment, climb up the ridge to compass NE ( I walk on the top of snow slope, because it is flat and gentle, also i think it is easier than walking on loose sand.)

At about 2150m, there is a break without snow, a sandy slope that you can walk down. ( -37.43215, -71.36002 )

Not steep, i think is easy go down but slow, so when i go down a little, i go back to south side to join the snow slope for fast moving, snow slope becomes more gentle when it gets lower.

By the way, you can climb up and go down the pass without stepping on any snow now.

Km20.7 : you'll find car track here, you can follow it to dirt road, i take {09-B} here, avoid crossing Petronquines(RR km28.9) at downstream. {09-B} is something look like a very old car track on the ground, no cars running on it anymore, easy walking but not easy to follow.

{09-B} km1.15 : crossing of Estero El Aguada o El Volcán ( a long name), a stream. A very good crossing point, stream break to 6 parts here, all below half of calf at afternoon. Flowing nice with clear water.

After the crossing, i can't find any trail or car track on the other side, but after i keep going CC about 400m, a dirt road in good condition at mountain side, it'll lead you to the main dirt road and join {09-C}.

Bridge {09-C} [1.7/1417] : milky water.

Border control CL[2.5/1420] : gate for vehicles but not for people. Didn't see anyone when I passed here at 5pm.

Km3.7: excellent view point of Volcán Antuco and meadows.

Bridge[5.3/1444] : crossing Petronquines on a bridge, beautiful view and lot of clear water, maybe it is difficult to cross it at downstream (RR) as now. Look like you can camp beside, or under the bridge. But every 0.5 - 1 hour have a border control vehicle patroling the road, I don't know camping beside this road is it a good idea.

Bridge[7.3/1470] : clear water but no flat spots.

X RR[34.9/1495] : rejoin RR.

Ford[37.0/1512] : below half of calf at late afternoon.

Km39.4 - pass[50.4/1878] : lot of stream crossing the road, have 1-2 need wet feet crossing, just beside the pass is a stream flowing too.

Pass[50.4/1878] : beautiful grassland, flat and nice for camping, but 20+cows when I passed here.

RR-TL-V{09} [50.4+9.6] is a nice and maintained trail ,easy to follow, sometimes you'll find orange ribbon leads where you go.

Ford[52.3/1648] : no river crossing here.

Km53.15 - km53.65 : you need to cross the stream 4 times, then walk in the stream about 50m, but all dry feet crossing, rock hopping or log bridge will help you.

Km54.55 : junction of RR and {09-D}, but i miss the turning to RR, so i go for {09-D}.

{09-D} km0.4: river crossing, rock hopping for dry feet. Also a small grassland can fit 1-3 tents after the crossing 150m.

Km0.6 : a stream flowing good crossing the trail with a tiny waterfall, you can sit under it to enjoy a cool shower in a hot day. Look like the other side of river have a nice grassland for camping can fit 2-4 tents, but wet feet crossing.

Km1.1 : rejoin RR.

Viewpoint RR [57.4/1338] : if you are SOBO, it is the first view of Volcán Callaqui. Also nice view of Trapa Trapa.

Km58.6 : CAUTION, if you see a red ribbon, DON'T keep going, you are not on the trail, turn back immediately and check your GPS. RR trail is a sharp turning then go down, you are walking away from the trail and towards a very steep slope now.

Km58.95 : RR have some reroute at here, but mostly you can follow the only trail to main road.

I stayed at Trapa Trapa with the lovely family at (Lodging,food) waypoint. Simple single room with bed, quilt, chair, light and electric charger, also dinner and breakfast. I buy some sausage from the shop nearby and share with all people here. They are very exciting where i come from, what I'm doing, and what interesting things happened when I'm hiking, it is a warm night, i love them! And they invited me to watch their sterilization of horse, OMG OMG OMG, so shock to me, OMG.

Shop (-37.71249,-71.25642) : at compass West of (Lodging,food) waypoint, very close just 2 min walking. Two red house here, the small one is shop. Selling drinks, ice cream, biscuits, pasta, coffee, tea and some frozen meat( mostly is sausage). This shop have a sign on the main road, no sign at the front gate and the gate is opened.

2023 Dec 28 to Dec 29 / 2 days / hiking / SOBO / Option 2 + RR+ 09-C/ Ella

TLDR: no issue at border control. don’t count on Lagunillas Camping cafeteria or the Lodging, Food waypoint in Trapa Trapa

Bussed from Los Angeles to Abanico - make sure to go to the terminal for rural busses which will be different from where you might get off an intercity bus. Hitched from there to Lagunillas Camping. Campground was nice and spacious. The host is really kind and helpful. The cafeteria was not open for food when I was there, just coffee and tea. Day 1: Due to a stormy forecast, I chose to avoid the already sketchy-seeming pass and head for the route around the lake (option 2). To get there, I took the small trails around the main road heading east from the campground, which were scenic for a cloudy day with no mountain view - enjoyed the volcanic landscape and the waterfall Salto Las Chilcas. I then was able to hitch a ride on the road beside the lake to the other side of the Volcano, which was good because there didn’t appear to be many streams or campsite options. I continued on by foot on Variant C. I went through border control and the officer was very thorough, but didn’t try to give me an exit stamp when I explained I wasn’t going to cross the border. He mostly seemed concerned that I was alone and tried to offer food and a bathroom! I camped a few kilometers further along that road by one of the streams that crosses it. Beware of aggressive bulls in the area.

Day 2: Easy walking all the way to the pass. Water is still available about every kilometer or two along this route. After the pass there are a few points with a bit of landslide risk where you’re walking on very unstable skree. In retrospect it seems Variant D may exist to avoid some of this but I can’t be sure because I didn’t take it. When I got to Trapa Trapa I was dismayed to find no one at the lodging and food point that others had raved about. The small market just beside this point (sign for “provisions” is only on the main road. looks like a small house with the front painted red next to a larger house) was indeed open at 6pm on a Friday after I called out. There were many types of biscuits and cold drinks, pasta sauce (no pasta), coffee, and maybe even some type of meat in the freezer that I wasn’t quite daring enough to buy. Highly recommend the calorific Chiky Bum biscuits for avoiding mental collapse after a nearly 30km day. I asked the owner about the lodging option next door and she said the family was away for a few days, so guess I just got unlucky. Further down the road towards GPT 10 where there is sign “Kiosco”, there’s also a small ice cream shop/market that was closed when I arrived. I didn’t find another market. Went back up the GPT 09 trail just a bit to get out of town and found a nice camping spot along the river for the night. Visits from goats and a baby horse were a welcome occurrence. No Entel service in Trapa Trapa.

2023 Dec 20 to Dec 22 / 2,5 days / hiking / SOBO / RR & 09-C/ Tomáš & Natalie

We took a bus at 19:00 from Los Angeles (which has a great system of shared taxis with fixed routes, number eight goes from the big bus station to Jumbo and back to rural bus station for 1000 per person) to Albanico and upon arriving there after five minutes, the first passing car took us to the border of the national park. We pitched our tent in the delta of the river not far from the road but not visible from it. Without the smoke of last year and with the yellow of brooms everywhere and Antuco under snow, the valley was extremely pretty.

The next day we talked to a CONAF ranger, he said an Argentinian hiker told him there was ice in the pass. We did not pay anything.

The climb is pretty, in the pass there was a lot of snow. We followed Véronica's suggestion from last year and climbed about 100 m of elevation to the east and then ran down on the snow. The path in the valley was rather invisible. Two lone acuaria trees guard the road. We thought Rio de los Pines would be impossible to ford now with all the thawing (others seem to have passed though) so took variant C along the main road to Argentina. Carabinieros just looked at our passports and let us go. A car passed about every half an hour. The valley is stunning yet the roadwalk is a drudge. The following minor road seems virtually never to be driven by cars and is in places badly damaged by water. The valley up is nice.

Going down to Trapa-Trapa, about 1 km after the pass, the path is eroded and new one was created going down to the water. The walk down through the forrest was quite pleasant. We met several groups of arrieros on both side of the pass, they were nice.

In Trapa-Trapa, we had lunch at "Lodging, Food" waypoint. We could not see any sign. We got tomatoes, cheese, bread, pasta, a piece of down fried in oil (tasty) and maté. We paid them a good price for it, we hope it was not too much. From March 2024, there should be (probably) Entel coverage in the valley, the telecomunication tower is already up. We did not see any shops but did not look for them. Altogether, GPT 9 is quite nice, especially now with the snow.

2023-dec-18/ 2,5 days / hiking / SOBO / RR & 09-A/ Lukas en Tess

As of now the pass on K16,8 is imposible to cross. Going around and taking 09-A is posible but the rock scrambling is a pain. But I would argue the awesome lava field is worth it. Otherwise the trail was nice and easy, I realy enjoyed the wide open landscape. Arriving in Trapa Trapa we where offered some Harina tostada drink after starting a conversation with some old ladies. We got some cheese at a minishop that is not on the track files. Z37,712542° W71,266816°, something like haloumi, so try roasing it!

2023-Dec-8 to 2023-Dec- 10 / 2 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR + option 2 + cross country for the volcano / Yannick & Nolwenn & Jens

- Water : all markers are good and even more water present

- Snow : on RR on km 16,8 seems impassable because there was still a lot of snow. Yannick wanted to summit the volcano, he went on the East part and went until 2700m of altitude. The North face had less snow.

- Camping spot : easy to find

- River crossing : easy between km 57,9 and km 52,3

- Weather : Sunny

- Resupply : in Abanico a little shop and some cabanas, more options in Antuco, everything you need to resupply there - even gaz canister in the ferreteria

Season 2022/23

• 2023-Mar-10 to 2023-Mar-12 / 2.5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR + OH-1 / Iris, Alexis

After a rest in Trapa Trapa at Lodging, Food {09-03E} [0.3/956], we started GPT09 in the morning. The ascent following RR-TL-V {09} [57.4/50.4+9.6] is a well marked horse trail that clims slowly, perfect for a start. Then, the RR-MR-V {09} [41.8/34.9+13.3] is flat and passes through a nice valley, a bit above the river but multiple streams crosses it. Like others, we took 09-C, but had no luck with hitchhiking and ended up walking the 11km. No problem at the border control. We finally ended up camping close to -37.46277, -71.31864 (aim for the big tree, and you will find some camp spot with firepits) after a pretty long day.

On Day 2, we followed the RR and took Option 09-01 to climb the summit. We left most of our gear at the Pass {09} [16.8/2043]. It's better to follow the track for the first part, until the conic shape because it goes along a ridge and avoid pointless ups and down. Then, on the conic shape, you are on your own. We followed a trail made by a group of 8 hikers that were a bit ahead when we found it. It definitely helped as the parts without were really clambering. The views on the top and the small crater made it definitely worthwhile for us. Going down is much more easy and fun, you slide on the sand! As it was late in the season, we did not had any snow on our way but it sill took about 4h to go up (and 1 to go down). We ended up camping at Campamento Anfiteatro (-37.42427, -71.41517) pretty exhausted. The river here is really chalky but clean water is available from the ice cave.

On Day 3, we took a small detour to see the tunnel of ice (worthy!) and headed down towards Chacay. Then we tried to hitchhike until Abanico with poor luck (on a Sunday morning). Took us 4 rides, but the last one went until Antuco. As there are also limited buses on Sundays, we then did more hitchhike to Los Angeles to ressuply.

A short section but filled with great landscapes and stunning views. Plus you walk in a lava field! Definitely worth it, we really loved it!

• 2023-Jan-14 to 2023-Jan-16 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + volcan Antuco / Martial /

Combined with Section 10. Laja national Parc was reopened after fire preventive closure on 13/02. Took the bus from LA to Abanico at 4:30PM arriving late at Campamiento viejo (7000$/n) after walking cause poor hitchhiking at this hour (parc closes 17:30). Next morning much more efficient and someone droped me at the start after giving pre-order entry number to CONAF staff (was not important that my ticket was for the previous day). The ascent to Amphiteatro camping is quick and really well maintained trail. Then i strongly recommend visiting detour to the waterfall for a unique glaciar tunnel walking experience. Next CC on Antuco’s lava fields was real fun in perfect cloudy weather. Don’t miss the impressive lava bridge  ! After reaching the pass early, legs were feeling like summiting Antuco the same day so i decided to search for a high camp. Mission completed here at 2300m : -37.42532, -71.35615 with flat sand next to fresh clean water ponds from the snow. Summiting 2h after setting camp, sunset rewarded me with unique views on laguna Laja and massive Sierra Veluda. Just don’t get caught by the night or bad weather !! RR descent is sandy and hot traversing a sand deserted bareland so I strongly recommand the O9-C to avoid struggle like I did before shortening to reach the road. Had a meal from a generous family staying at the next Puesto + a hike to piedra del Indio. Then Vegas de Trapa is quick walking MR with lots of puesto and camping option so personally stoped here : -37.57620, -71.24127. Arrived in Trappa next early afternoon for sweet delights in the only shop fenced and garded by 3 dogs. Directly continued to section 10 for reaching puesto at 7.1 wich i also recommand for it’s comfy grassy camping and amable Mapuche family.

• 2023-Jan-23 to 2023-Jan-25 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + OH 9c / Maks & Gabi

Combined with Section 10. The road is nice and visible. There is no snow on the pass. At the entrance to the national park, the guards asked for permission, but when we told them that we were going to Trapa Trapa, they let us go. We slept at the camping inside the park (10000/person). We took a detour to see a waterfall by the glacier. It was about 4 km go and back. We camped right outside the national park, by the river. There were a lot of cows but none of them aggressive. We the took the optional route 9c and walked by the carabineros station.No problems there. Just explained that we are going to Trapa Trapa, without crossing the border. They checked out passports and let us go. There were no further surprises, and the road is really well maintained. Just be careful when going down to Trapa Trapa after rain. It's quite slippery. There is plenty of water along all the trail. The shop in Trapa Trapa is marked with a sign on the main road. They have some sweetest and noodles but not much more.

• 2023-Jan-21 to 2023-Jan-23 / 2.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / Johana & Matouš

We really enjoyed this section. We took a bus from Los Angeles to Abanico at 3 o'clock and then hitchhiked to the end of the main road. We arrived at the CONAF control point with no one there (7 p.m.). We slept at the Lagunillas camping, which was for 10000 per person, they had beers, jugos, empanadas, tortillas..We teamed up with Gabi and Max from Poland and enjoyed their company throughout the section (hello! :⁠-⁠)). The ascent to the volcano was amazing, looked like Mordor. Near the point "Campamento Anfiteatro" there's a waterfall that ends in a snowpatch whereby it creates a cave of ice. It's amazing. You can see it from the distance. There's clean water as well, the next clean water is on the other side of the volcano in the valley. We confirm that there's no need to stay away from the carabineros anymore, they only took down our passport numbers. Then it was easy walking until after the pass. We camped at a nice spot in the forest next to the river (S 37° 40.6391' W 071°14.1985). We somehow didn't manage to find the food/lodging point, but were approached by an older lady who fed us cookies and seemed to know a lot about other hikers. There are said to be three shops in Trapa Trapa, we only found the one next to the school which had only biscuits. Continued to GPT10 straight after.

• 2023-Jan-10 to 2023-Jan-12 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Will

Combined with section 10 Nice easy section, loved crossing the fresh crunchy volcanic wasteland at the start. Everything after that was fast trail. Mild temperatures, no horse flies. I had some trouble getting back from Antuco to the trail. I got told a couple wrong times for the bus, and had no luck during my quick hitchhiking attempt. Eventually caught a bus to abanico at 2, and then two rides got me into the park. The couple driving me spoke for me at the park entrance, and I ended up having to pay 4500 for the entrance. I probably should have gotten out and talked my way through separately. I stayed at openstreetmap's amphitheater campsite night 1. Nice sheltered spot at the base of sierra velluda, soft sand. The camp/puesto markers at km 47 seem a bit out of date. There wasn't much at the puesto maker, and there was a puesto right at the campsite marker. The family at the puesto happily let me camp there.

• 2023-Jan-06 to 2023-Jan-08 / 2.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / Anna & Christopher

Antuco - Trapa Trapa We hitchhiked from Camping Rucue back to the national park. The landscape was really magnificent the first day. There was almost no snow left after the pass. After the descent walking gets tougher due to the sand and the path is partially hard to find. But after the second roadcrossing there is a lot of easy walking on dirt roads. Atfter leaving the river at around km 47, there is still accessible water in the first part of the small ascent. On the plateau there are no watersources until the descent. We carried some water and camped on the plateau, a very nice spot. Walking down to Trapa Trapa was really nice. We followed the main route. In retrospective we would have taken option 3, because it is shorter. We met a couple of locals along the way and they all greated us very nicely. Trapa Trapa was pretty empty when we arrived at around 11 am. We continued right to section 10.

• 2022-Dec-20 to 2022-Dec-23 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Véronica

combined GPT09 and GPT10 Route: CONAF waypoint - shoulder of Volcán Antuco - road through border control checkpoint - Trapa Trapa

Two days from national park to Trapa Trapa. From Antuco, I hitched back to the national park and got there around noon. Didn't get charged an entry fee, I just told the entrance staff what trail I planned to take. Nice path most of the way up the volcano, even the CC section has occasional cairns marking the way. You go along a creek as you go up, so lots of accessible water.

Lots of snow on the southeast side of the pass. Tried to go around on the right along/through the rocks, but it's mostly siltstone, very crumbly, and very steep. Got really precarious there so I backtracked to the pass and went around the snow on the left. This involved climbing an additional 150m through volcanic sand, but it felt much safer. The rest of the way down is pretty much all cross-country, couldn't really find a path, but navigation was simple. There were some water sources on the way down too, courtesy of the melting snow.

The next morning, I took Option C that goes along the dirt road. There was no one at the border control checkpoint, probably because I went through before 7 a.m.

Rest of the way to Trapa Trapa is easy, no issues whatsoever. It's nice and forested on the south side of the pass. I didn't investigate resupply or bus options in Trapa Trapa as I went straight through to GPT10.

Season 2021/22

• 2022-Mar-01 / 3 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR / Romain

- Camp {09} [47.1/1709] : I slept around 47.5, the place was calm, flat, with grass and close to the water (that was finally not usable because there was too much sand in, but you can easily find drinkable water when going down the valley), many people from the puestos came to talk as it seemed to be the end of the season, it was really pleasant. One offered me to come by him but it was late and I was too tired to move by him, I tried to meet him back the day after but I didn't find his puesto with its indications

- The valley from Puesto {09} [49.3/1820] to Puesto {09} [39.8/1558] : very pleasant, with nice people in, I really liked this place. The water in the middle isn't usable but you can find fresh drinkable water going down from the hills at some points

- There is a Puesto around {09} [37.0/1512], people were nice and asked me if I needed anything

- The way on RR-TL-V {09} just after GPT09-C end isn't easy to find, just stick to the GPS until meeting a road leading to a Puesto close to the river at the Ford on Rio de los Pinos, then it's much easy to follow

- I got an excellent bath when crossing the river close to GPT08-04 end, the water coming from one river was warm and there was enough depth

- the CC from GPT08-04 end to GPT09-02 end was beautiful but demanding because of the soil made of earth and sand, it took me more time than I thought. After having cross the river I got close to an other one with many cows next to it, following it at one point a source of clear drinkable water was running on 3-4m to reach the river

- There is a Campbase with many places cleaned to set up tents and do campfires close to the river following up the road around Bridge {09} [23.3/1409]. It's located at the base of a huge araucaria tree, you can't miss it

- After the RH-CC-A {09} the RH-TL-V {09} is easily findable just by looking at the GPS and is marked with many cairns

- National Park : when leaving it I went to see the guards at the entrance and they were ok with that, didn't ask for any information or fee

• 2022-Feb-09 to 2022-Feb-10 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Veronika & Jo

Took the bus from Antuco to Abanico, got a ride by a friendly Chilean to the national park (no camping allowed). Had to pay entry to the park. Took the CC route avoiding the carabineros to camp in the meadows just beyond the park (S 37° 27.927', W 07). There was a spring emptying in the meadows there. Finished after a long hiking day at Elvira's "lodging, food". Very friendly family, took us in even after 21:00. Understandably there was no goat stew, but we also only payed half price (20.000). Great homemade bread in the morning though :) Continued to GPT10 immediately after.

In the first morning when breaking down camp, we were greeted by two carabineros on horseback, who may have been surprised at the sight of our tent out of sight next to a sand slope. They asked who we were, where we're from and where we're going too, and didn't mind us camping there. No questions about the border with Argentina after. I guess there's no need to stay away from the carabineros here any longer.

• 2022-Jan-21 / 3 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR + Antuco summit / Molly and Melissa

In Trapa Trapa, we stayed at the house marked "lodging, food". They charge 20,000 per person for a room, dinner and breakfast. There's also the option to take a bath in their inflatable swimming pool with shampoo, and they sell some honey. We were served cazuela and loads of sopaipillas for dinner. Right next to them in a little red house behind a black gate there is a minishop, which according to them is the biggest in Trapa Trapa. They had pasta, rice, tuna, sodas, chocolate covered nuts, matches, toilet paper. They were open Saturday when we were there.

The path up from Trapa Trapa starts next to the river. Nice path all the way, that transitions to a long gravel road, very easy to follow and many little streams. We camped at the beginning of the next valley at the waypoint "ford". The second to last puesto, on the right hand, belongs to Felizario whose family has the lodging option in Trapa Trapa. He is open to people camping nearby.

The cc section is easy navigation-wise, but the sand is tough to walk in, and it is very exposed. There's little water apart from the fords, but enough. The water coming down from the valley next to Volcan Antuco is very chalky though, and at the waypoint "camp" the stream is all dried up. Further in the valley the water is fine, and it might be possible to find a campsite just before leaving the stream on the optional route. The building at the "police" waypoint is abandoned. We ended up camping by the carabineros at the "boarder control" waypoint. While walking on the primary road we were stopped by a boarder control car who wanted to see our passports and pase de movilidad (covid-19) and hear about our route. There were no problems with that. He was very convinced we couldn't cross to Abanico through the pass on the regular route because there wasn't a trail on the other side, but he let us try. Absolutely no snow in the pass on Volcán Antuco's shoulder - apparently it's a very low snow year

Volcán Antuco summit: We followed the route up, it leads along the ridge to avoid the very strong stream in the valley. This part is not too difficult. The summit itself is very hard, though. It's very steep through loose, big lava rocks that slide everywhere. Tough and a little dangerous. On the other side, the terrain is made of the same kind of rocks for over half of the descent, which makes for a very slow going. Maybe there is a nicer path under the ski lifts, we found one almost in the end. Definitely not worth it for everyone. The place marked "restaurant, lodging" was closed - apparently they are open only during the ski season. Not too difficult to hitch from there if not too late

Season 2019/20

• 2020-Jan-10 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / Ian Hikes

Overview: This section has you cross over a volcanic lava field and over a pass at first and then follows trails south thru and area with many puestos and ranches. The first part of this section involves some route finding and cross country while the second half follows well established dirt roads and dirt trails thru grass Valley.

Difficulties: WARNING: Huge snow field at the top of the pass that is untraversable. It is very steep and must be avoided if not yet melted. Must go around so please be safe. My biggest difficult was the sections across the lava rocks. My shoes were almost destroyed by this point and the sharp, jagged and uneven surface of the lava rock caused so much pain in my feet and completely took out what ever life was left in my trail runners. Also, lots of route finding and cross country in this area.

Highlights: Amazing mountain pass with many views of waterfalls. Glaciers.

Please feel free to reach out to me with any questions at ultratrailca@gmail.com

• 2020-Jan-22 / 4 days (GPT9 + GPT19) / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Martin

Combined sections 9 & 10. 4 days. Sierra Velluda and Antuco Volcanoe were amazing. In Trapa Trapa the two small shops were out of stock, so we couldn't buy anything. Pehuenche settlers in "veranadas" were really welcoming and friendly to us. We asked anyway for permission to camp close to their settlements. We were invited by familia Crespo Manquepi for tortillas, tea and some other food and stayed there for a few hours. They are welcome to recieve gpt hikers and in the future sell some food and lodging. Really kind family. Just before the last big climb in section 10. No water for a long stretch after it. Recomend the detour to Laguna Liay, amazing. Resupplied in Ralco.

• 2020-Jan-22 / 1.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR (mostly) / Frank

2 days & continued to GPT10 on 2nd day. There is at least one place to stay in Abanico & as you go on the road past Abanico towards the park there are a few cabins & one campsite. In the park @ small lake 2K before Conaf1 there is a campsite with cabins. You pay 4000CLP entry @ Conaf but I went in before 8AM, no one there. At the pass, around 2050M on the shoulder of Antuco, I was able to slide down the lowest part of the snowfield. Northbound or earlier in the season you may need to go around it. Virtually no shade on this route. 3 small shops in Trapa Trapa. Last one, Provisiones Bety, has a rest area, she sometimes has bread.

Went on OH-PR-V@09-B-#002, talked to Carabineros @ Border Control & told them I would stay in Chile & continue to Trapa Trapa. They were OK with that & didn't ask to see my passport, so I would say there is no need to divert around the border post any more.

• 2020-Jan-15 / 1.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Maddie & Tom

Easy hitch from Abanico to the start of the National Park (~10km into the section). The CONAF station at the park entrance took us longer than expected to pass through and explain what we were doing (they appeared to be unsure as to whether we were crossing the border into Argentina or not). However after explaining our route to them they let us pass without paying the entrance fee to the national park. The cross country sections were easy to navigate and overall the trail was of good quality.

• 2020-Jan-10 / 2.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Martina & Ivo

We passed the big snowfield at the right side through the rocks, as Matus suggested. It was steep but ok and definitively the shorter way around the snow. Nothing to add to the previous comments. In Trapa Trapa we continued straight to Section 10.

• 2020-Jan-04 / 3.5 days (GPT9 + GPT10) / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Matus & Anna

GPT09 and GPT10 Season section log. We combined these two sections. Trail in both section is in good condition. There is snowfield in first pass as was mentioned. We went left, but it would be worth to check is it's possible to go through rocks on the right as it seems much shorter. Water is not marked on a map but there is a stream before the pass. Resuply in Trapa Trapa is very limited. They had few tunas, other caned fish, some pasta, flour, cola, crisps... We didn't check for accomodation. We stayed in a paid campsite at Laguna el Barco for 5000 both. Around 8 there was a woman selling bread and sweet pastry, but mind that it was weekend. Resuply in Guallali again very limited. They have tunas, caned fish, pasta, oil, crackers and bit more. We are staying in a house next to the shop.

Resupply and Accommodation

Resupply and Accommodation in nearby Towns

• Antuco

Many smaller supermarkets, which have most things - easy enough to resupply here. One of the two ferreterías has gas (the one furthest from Abanico). Many accommodation options and some restaurants. There is an ATM at the town square which even gives some smaller notes

Also panaderias (one selling good sopaipillas for $300 if you haven't tried yet), restaurants but also food truck, brewery

• Abanico

At least one shop. A pizzeria Bus to Antuco/Los Angeles

• Trapa Trapa

3 shops but they are all small. They all have biscuits & soft drinks. First one has ice cream & flour. Second one has pasta, matches, chocolate, canned fish. Third one ( Provisiones Bety) sometimes has bread.

Accomodation in a small room at the waypoint "lodging, food" - 20,000 pesos for dinner, breakfast and accommodation.

Bus to Ralco

• Cabañas

Cottages and Campsite $ of the Natural Park around 1-2km going in direction of the entrance from the GPT, swimming pool and places to rest, seems cosy, I don't know the price as I didn't camp there but it seemed to be open. You can find it on the classic map. The website of the place : https://www.parqueantuco.cl/

Transport to and from Route

Bus from Los Angeles to Antuco about once an hour in daytime. A few of them continue to Abanico or you can hitch fairly easily (also see here: Volcán_Antuco#Acceso_en_transporte_p.C3.BAblico_y_autostop.

Updated January 2022: Bus from Trapa Trapa to Ralco at 6 and 18 every day including weekends

- Many people going and coming from the National Park, it hadn't been easy to hitchhike to reach Antuco but it worked

- Bus from Antuco to Santiago - Terminal Sur leaving at 21:30 and arriving at 6:30

Company : Nilahue

$26.300 for semi-cama

Commentaries : "cheap" company, no USB-plugs, not much space for the legs, the bus stop is at the entrance of Antuco coming from the Andes, it's a shelter made of bricks just next to a food truck selling fries and hamburgers

Permits, Entry Fees and Right-of-Way Issues

Update November 2023: The Chilean Border Control had be relocated and is now closer to the border and not any more on the GPT route. Therefore it is not any more required to sneak around the Chilean Border Control.

This is the only place where it is strongly recommended to sneak around a police station. This recommendation applies in particular to all non-Chileans going southbound. The reason: The forward border control Pichachen is located about 20 km before the actual border. And only here the regional superiors of the PDI (Policia de Investigation) came up with the silly rule that everyone that passes the border control post towards Argentina gets stamped out of the country regardless if he leaves Chile or not. They simply ignore the fact that a few kilometers down the main road at Piedra del Indio long before reaching Argentina a horse trail diverts towards the next village in Chile called Trapa Trapa. Should you get an exit stamp into your passport but continue to hike in Chile you will be an illegal alien without a valid tourist visa. This may not instantly cause you a problem but the next time you want to leave Chile orderly i.e. from an airport the immigration system will show that you illegally in Chile and the police will assume that you trespassed into Chile. And that’s taken pretty serious. Forget about your flight and your further travel plans. Every hikers that passed this border control got into some kind of trouble and caused these officers a headache. Some hikers could convince them after long discussions to pass without an exit stamp. Some hikers got and exit stamp and run into problems later. Some hikers pretended to walk back and took a partly overgrown route to walk around the border control. When we hiked this section in January 2014 I got unasked an exit stamp while they “just checked my documents” but luckily after a long talk I could convince them to give me a new entry stamp. You can’t blame these poor officials at the border control for this situation; they understand these occasional hikers but their regional superiors gave them strict orders. In short: this place is a potential disaster for hikers and hikers are a disturbance for these officials. Therefore, to avoid this issue I simply rerouted the regular hiking route to bypass the border control post Pichachen. It’s easier for everyone: for the hikers and for the poor police officer that have to comply with this silly order. The re-routed track leads cross country through the normally dry lake bed of the Laguna de Las Lajas and just crosses the main road at the diversion to Trapa Trapa. Walking around the border control may be suspicious but is not illegal and saves everyone nerves and endless discussions. It actually prevents you from getting into an illegal migration status while staying in Chile. The Regular Packrafting Route anyway bypasses the border control. Luckily this is the only border control post I’m aware off where such a stupid rule is applied. In many other forward border controls you need to proactively approach the police and request your exit stamp if you plan to leave Chile. Should you just visit the area between the border control and the actual border you can normally just pass or explain your intentions.

Links to other Resources

Retired Section Article GPT09 - Volcán Antuco

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