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| − | {{Table all GPTs}}
| + | <div style="margin-top: -14px;overflow: hidden"> |
| − | | + | <div style="float:left;margin-top: 14px">__TOC__</div> |
| − | <br style="clear:both" /> | + | <div style="margin-top: 0px;">{{Table all GPTs}}</div></div> |
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| | Add a new log entry always on top in the appropriate season sub-chapter and use format: | | Add a new log entry always on top in the appropriate season sub-chapter and use format: |
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| − | ''*'' Start Date to Finish Date (use Format YYYY-MMM-DD) / Duration in Days / Hiking or Packrafting / Travel Direction (SOBO for Southbound or NOBO Northbound) / Chosen Route and/or Option Name (RR for Regular Route) / Names or Alias | + | <nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''Start Date to Finish Date (use Format YYYY-MMM-DD) / Duration in Days / Hiking or <span style="background-color:aqua;">Packrafting</span> / Travel Direction (SOBO for Southbound or NOBO Northbound) / Chosen Route and/or Option Name (RR for Regular Route) / Names or Alias'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki> |
| | | | |
| − | Summary with remarks to route that are considered useful for other hikers and packrafters. Include alerts, suggestions and personal perception of attractiveness and difficulties.
| + | If you are packrafting, put the above into like this <nowiki><span style="background-color:aqua;"></nowiki><span style="background-color:aqua;">'''YYYY-MMM-DD / X days / Packrafting / SOBO / RP / Your name'''</span><nowiki></span></nowiki>. If you follow a hiking route for part of the way, highlight only "packrafting". |
| − | | + | |
| − | | + | |
| − | Add a sub-chapter by placing two "=" before and after the new sub-chapter heading ('==Sub-Chapter Heading==').
| + | |
| | | | |
| | + | Summary with remarks to route that are considered useful for other hikers and packrafters. Include alerts, suggestions and personal perception of attractiveness and difficulties. Try to be specific. Do not be shy to fix obvious mistakes. |
| | | | |
| | + | = Overview = |
| | | | |
| | =Section Log, Alerts and Suggestions= | | =Section Log, Alerts and Suggestions= |
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| | ==Season 2022/23== | | ==Season 2022/23== |
| | | | |
| − | *GPT37H Penisula La Florida/ Iris, Alexis / 2023 Jan 18-21/ 3,5 days / West Traverse | + | * <span style="background-color:aqua;">'''2022-Dec-18 to 2023-Jan-16 / 30 Days / Packrafting / GPT37P Initial Investigation / Villa O'Higgins, Lago Negro, El Taitao, La Morocha, Isla Central, Brazo Poniente, Rio Condor, Lago Chico / Meylin Ubilla, Masha Ovchinnikova, Misha Bogdanov, Jan Dudeck, Tobias Schorch'''</span> |
| | | | |
| − | We were able to get a boat ride to Bahia Pescado by asking Rudeas de Patagonia. We came at the end of the day and they sold us some remaining seats at a fair price (50k for 2). Earlier in the day, the price was 60k each.
| + | In the 10 years of investigating and publishing the GPT this has been the most diverse, intense and longest exploration trip. |
| | | | |
| − | When arriving at Bahia Pescado, we had difficulties to find the trail and struggled in the first ascent. We pitched the tent at Water {37H} [56.7/408]. The view all along and at the spot is stunning.
| + | Lago O’Higgins is not completely unknown in the travelers world but most hikers and cyclists perceive this lake rather as an obstacle then as a region to explore. Lago O’Higgins is located between the southern terminus of the Carretera Austral and the hiking mecca El Chalten. Hikers and cyclists that wish to connect along the Carretera Austral from Cerro Castillo or Parque Patagonia to El Chalten often take the ferries that cross this lake from Villa O‘Higgins to Candelario Mancilla but furious wind can result in waiting times of more then one week. |
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| − | On the second day, the ascent through RH-CC-A {37H} [5.6/48.0+0.5] was tough because it was really hot and the path we found was in rocky former river stream. Then, RR-CC-A {37H} [39.9/40.7+1.7] is even harder when going up. We suggest to continue to follow the shore a bit and going up straight instead of trying to do both at the same time. It looked easier when above. We camped at Camp {37H} [36.5/776] but we did not find water nearby.
| + | While visiting Villa O’Higgins in recent years we learned more about the handful of settlers living remotely on the shores of this lake. The first settlers arrived around 100 years ago by boat coming from the Argentine side of this bi-national lake. And satellite images provided some information about the trails in the vicinity of this octopus-like lake with numerous arm. After years of contemplating we reserved a good part of this season to venture on this lake and to visit the settlers. |
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| − | Third day was without any specificities except gorgeous landscapes and scenic views. Of note, Camp {37H} [114.9/268] is probably not available for the season as it is occupied by a dead cow. We found a suitable pitch a bit further on the beach (in an old corral).
| + | Lago O’Higgins is infamous for the often furious wind that can last for days. Especially in summer wind rarely stops making any packrafting attempt an exercise of patience. Of the 30 days at the lake we spend 10 days waiting but these days were “value time” because we stayed at the homesteads of the settlers and tasted their way of life. |
| | + | Highlights of the trip have been: |
| | | | |
| − | The return to Bahia Bahamondes was straight forward. The beginning of the trail is easily lost and we checked our GPS quite often. Then, the trail is visible and beautiful. We were lucky to find a ride to Villa O'Higgins at the port and did not walk the last 7 kilometers.
| + | - Searching and documenting the barely travelled trail from Villa O’Higgins via Lago Negro to El Taitao |
| | | | |
| − | Overall, we struggled a bit but had no real difficulties. The weather was excellent (even a bit too hot) and the rivers crossable easily. This hike was super beautiful and diverse. Also, we met nobody on the trail and it was really pleasant to feel diving into barely frequented nature.
| + | - Crossing by packraft Lago O’Higgins at Brazo Desagüe and Bahia Pocas Pilchas |
| | | | |
| | + | - Spending 10 days with Andrea and Susana Mancilla on Isla Central that became our “base camp” for exploring Brazo Poniente |
| | | | |
| − | * 2023-Jan-07 to 2023-Jan-07 / 6 days / GPT37P(H): Peninsula La Florida. Full "8" route and side hikes (to Cerro Tres Frailes) / Clockwise / Alex Abramov
| + | - Packrafting and hiking Brazo Poniente all the way to the glaciers that creep down from the Southern Patagonian Icefield |
| | | | |
| − | 179 km, Solo.
| + | - Spending 7 days with Ema Mera and Leo Muñoz at their homestead Rio Condor that became our “base camp” to visit Brazo Sudoccidental and the Southern Patagonian Icefield |
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| − | An excellent route ranked in my top five favorites in Chile. Very scenic, varied, secluded, a real gem. In general, there are no problems with water or camps. Not particularly difficult, but the route has at least two quite demanding fords and many sections with complicated navigation and annoying thorny bushes (I always use my running shoes).
| + | - Investigate a new cross-country hiking route to a viewpoint of Glacier O’Higgins that was probably never walked before |
| | | | |
| − | My choice of direction, clockwise, is due to trying challenging fords first.
| + | - Traversing the Pensinsula La Carmela from Glaciar Gaea to Lago Chico and crossing this lake by packraft next to Glaciar Chico |
| | | | |
| − | I am somewhat skeptical about the length of the track by Jan, the discoverer of the area, I believe that the real classic “8” will be closer to 150 km
| + | - Ascending on the Southern Patagonian Icefield along Glaciar Chico to Paso Marconi with the mountain guide Leo Muñoz |
| − | Crossing the Aro(s) River requires a lot of care, especially when passing alone. It can be extremely dangerous or impassable in the early season, I put some useful tips in the comment on the FB post.
| + | |
| | | | |
| − | ==Season 2021/22==
| + | - Arranging food shipments with the supply boat that 3 times per month visits the settlers of Lago O’Higgins |
| | | | |
| − | * 2022-Mar-06 / 3.5 days / 37P: Península La Florida / Tobias Schorcht, Jonas Grünewald and Martin
| + | The balanced combination of hiking, packrafting and living with the settlers made this 30-day trip an intense but not tiresome experience. |
| − | | + | |
| − | Thank you Jan, for sending us your GPS-Trackfiles right on time. It would have been quite difficult, to make our way over the península without them, because there are numerous good visible cow trails around! We booked a “O’Higgins Glaciar Tour” (120000 Pesos p.P) and asked the captain (Markus), to drop us on our way back at Punta Pescado, where the settlers Nicole, Misael and there little son are living. They were happy to receive some fresh fruits and vegetables and invited us for lunch. Nicole and Misael are warm and welcoming people. We left in the afternoon and made our way to “los hermanos” where we camped. The settler who is living there, was not at home. Surprisingly, the weather was much better then expected. Locals told us, it’s always warmer (“up to 4 degrees”) and less rainy up here. We had no problems with navigation on our way back to Villa. There were no dangerous river crossings and numerous of potential camping spots. The views on the Lago O’Higgins and the near by mountains have been spectacular. We suggest to use gaiters, to avoid scratches of the sticky bushes. All in all, we recommend this hike!
| + | |
| − | | + | |
| − | ==Season 2020/21==
| + | |
| − | | + | |
| − | ==Season 2019/20==
| + | |
| − | | + | |
| − | ** GPT36P Option 3: Lago Quetru, Rio Pascua, Lago & Glaciar Bergues, Fiordo Buzeta / 2019-Dec-28 / 6 days / Meylin Ubilla & Jan Dudeck
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| − | | + | |
| − | This 5 to 7 day round-trip is an fascinating hidden gemstone that combines some of the finest packrafting on lakes, rivers and fjords in touching distance to the Southern Patagonian Icefield with some demanding bushwhacking and visits of remotely living settlers. It’s South-Western Patagonia in a nutshell. The entire route traverses an area that is practically never visited by tourists and this not because of lack of attraction but because it is simply off the trotted path and requires a packraft.
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| − | | + | |
| − | Its needs a window of decent weather to make it an enjoyable adventure. Thanks to the remaining two homesteads of settlers that offer food and accommodation someone can sit out unsuitable weather with comfort.
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| − | | + | |
| − | Rio Bravo to Lago Quetru: The first 14 km are an annoying road walk that might be shortened by hitchhiking the first 9 km from ferry landing point Point Rio Bravo to the crossing where the road to Rio Pascua starts. From there its 5 more km on a gravel road to the 4 km long Lago Negro that may be packrafted. If you are in a rush or want to use a window of good weather to advance faster better keep walking directly to the northern terminus of Lago Quetru. This avoids packing you packraft for the 2 km portage from Lago Negro to Lago Quetru.
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| − | | + | |
| − | Lago Quetru to Rio Pascua: Lago Quetru is a nice 6 km paddle followed by a 2 km long very calm drainage river. Just before this river flows into Rio Pascua you find the home of Don Hernan Huelet to you left. His family offers accommodation and food.
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| − | | + | |
| − | Rio Pascua: Rio Pascua is to my knowledge the 3rd largest river of Chile in volume (discharge flow rate, after Rio Bio Bio and Rio Baker). This river is the drainage of Lago O’Higgins and descents on the first 30 km from 250 m altitude to about 20 m altitude in numerous rapids and cascades. After the last rapid the river continues for 30 more km as a powerful fast flowing river before discharging his turquoise water into the Pacific. This lower part of Rio Pascua is free of rapids but powerful eddies and trees in the water require the full attention.
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| − | | + | |
| − | Homestead of Amelia: About 5 km before the discharge into the Pacific you find the homestead of Amelia and here family to you right next to the river. Amelia walked in autumn 1967 with here family including three little kids, cattle and horses in about 35 days from Rio Salto near Cochrane through the mountains to this location to take the land to settle (no maps, no compass, partly no trails, no ultra-light gear, no GPS, no satellite communication). She happily opens here home for visitors and offers accommodation and food. Being here guest and listening to here adventures was a highlight of the trip.
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| − | | + | |
| − | Lago Bergues and Campo de Hielo de Sur: This highly recommendable side trip gets you in two days from the homestead of Amelia to the edge of the Southern Patagonian Icefield and back. You can leave not needed food and gear with Amelia. Cross Rio Pascua and follow the gravel road to the bridge of Rio Borgues. Before crossing the river start walking 6 km through the wetland and glacier sediments to Lago Bergues. This rather easy bushwhacking and cross-country took us only 3 hours. Inflate you packraft and paddle the 8 km to the glacier that flows down from the Southern Patagonian Icefield. Keep the required safety distance to the glacier and the floating blocks of ice that may disintegrate anytime. You may camp one night on one of the beaches in this area but try to camp as high as possible. Return on the same route. Experienced whitewater packrafters may consider to paddle down the drainage river after a careful analysis of satellite images and scouting the river. We did not dear.
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| − | | + | |
| − | Fiordo Buzeta: On a very calm early morning float down from the homestead of Amelia the last 5 km of Rio Pascua into Pacific. While crossing the bay we observed a whale blowing fountains of water into air when breathing. Be aware that the sea in the bay Bahia Baja Pascua can be very rough if the wind enters from the north or the east. Better wait if conditions are not suitable. From the river mouth paddle 25 km to the northern terminus of Fiordo Buzeta.
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| − | | + | |
| − | Fiordo Buzeta to Rio Bravo: Walking the 5 km from the northern terminus of Fiordo Buzeta to the Carretera Austral took us 8 hours; much more than expected and described by locals. Especially the first 2.5 km to Lago Cypress halfway were demanding. We again and again lost the faint trail but the rocky terrain makes it advisable to follow the established route and not to try to bushwhack your way. This would k lead again and again to cliffs with no safe continuation. Occasional trail marks (red pieces of fabric, blue pieces of plastic and machete tree marks and cuts) were extremely helpful but the distance between these marks increased and countless animal tracks divert in all directions. We have now a full GPS record what should facilitate further traverses. I will share this GPS record only if the next hiker promises to carry a machete (to clean the established route and make fresh tree marks) and lots of material to better mark the trail (i.e. yellow fabric strips).Especially from the highest point to Lago Cypress halfway we lost several hours in search of the established route. The second half of the portage (another 2.5 km) through the wetland was a lot easier and took us only 2 hours.
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| − | | + | |
| − | Carretera Austral to Villa O’Higgins: Once you hit the Carretera Austral consider to backtrack to the refuge at the ferry landing point Rio Bravo. There you may sleep sheltered and it is the best point to hitchhike or catch a bus towards Villa O’Higgins. Diehard Thru-Hikers need to get prepared for 60 to 70 km of road walking. The regular packrafting route of this section becomes attractive again at Rio Colorado about 30 km before Villa O’Higgins.
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| − | | + | |
| − | For Rio Colorado to Villa O’Higgins see post:
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| − | https://m.facebook.com/story/graphql_permalink/?graphql_id=UzpfSTY3ODk3MzQ4OTpWSzo1Mzg1NDI0OTMzMTgzMDg%3D
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| − | | + | |
| − | ==Season 2018/19==
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| − | | + | |
| − | ==Season 2017/18==
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| − | | + | |
| − | ==Season 2016/17==
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| | + | A detailed route description and recommendations will be provided with the next update of the Hikers Manual. |
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| | =Resupply and Accommodation= | | =Resupply and Accommodation= |
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| | ==Resupply and Accommodation along the Route== | | ==Resupply and Accommodation along the Route== |
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| | =Transport to and from Route= | | =Transport to and from Route= |
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| | =Permits, Entry Fees and Right-of-Way Issues= | | =Permits, Entry Fees and Right-of-Way Issues= |
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| | =Links to other Resources= | | =Links to other Resources= |
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| | =Images= | | =Images= |
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| − | [[Archivo: | ]]
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| − | {| border="1" style="border-collapse:collapse"
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| − | |+'''GPT37P: Penunsila La Florida'''
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| − | | colspan="4" style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| GPT37P: Penunsila La Florida
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| − | | colspan="2" style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Hiking
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| − | | colspan="2" style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Packrafting
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| − | |-
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| − | |style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"|Group
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| − | | colspan="2" | I: Campo de Hielo Sur 1
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| − | |style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Total
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| − | |style="background-color:#ffbfbf;"|'''-'''
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| − | |style="background-color:#ffbfbf;"|'''-'''
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| − | |style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| '''84.7 km'''
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| − | |style="background-color:#c2edfc;"|'''26 h'''
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| − | |-
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| − | | style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"|Region
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| − | | colspan="2" | Chile: Aysén (XI)
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| − | |style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Trails (TL)
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| − | |style="background-color:#ffbfbf;"|-
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| − | |style="background-color:#ffbfbf;"|-
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| − | |style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| 66.5 km
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| − | |style="background-color:#c2edfc;"|78.6%
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| − | |-
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| − | |style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Start
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| − | | colspan="2" | Villa O'Higgins
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| − | |style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Minor Roads (MR)
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| − | |style="background-color:#ffbfbf;"|-
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| − | |style="background-color:#ffbfbf;"|-
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| − | |style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| 1.8 km
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| − | |style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| 2.2%
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| − | |-
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| − | |style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Finish
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| − | | colspan="2" | Candelario Mancillo
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| − | |style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Primary Roads (PR)
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| − | |style="background-color:#ffbfbf;"|-
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| − | |style="background-color:#ffbfbf;"|-
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| − | |style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| 3.1 km
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| − | |style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| 3.7%
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| − | |-
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| − | |style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Status
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| − | | colspan="2" | To be Verified & Recorded by GPS
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| − | |style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Cross-Country (CC)
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| − | |style="background-color:#ffbfbf;"|-
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| − | |style="background-color:#ffbfbf;"|-
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| − | |style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| -
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| − | |style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| -
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| − | |-
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| − | |style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Traversable
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| − | | colspan="2" | Jan - Apr (Maybe: Nov, Dec, May)
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| − | |style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Bush-Bashing (BB)
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| − | |style="background-color:#ffbfbf;"|-
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| − | |style="background-color:#ffbfbf;"|-
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| − | |style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| -
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| − | |style="background-color:#c2edfc;"|-
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| − | |-
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| − | |style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Packraft
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| − | | colspan="2" | Required
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| − | |style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Ferry (FY)
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| − | |style="background-color:#ffbfbf;"|-
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| − | |style="background-color:#ffbfbf;"|-
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| − | |style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| -
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| − | |style="background-color:#c2edfc;"|-
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| − | |-
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| − | |style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Connects to
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| − | | colspan="2" | GPT36H, GPT36P, GPT37H, GPT38
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| − | |style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Investigation (I)
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| − | |style="background-color:#ffbfbf;"|-
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| − | |style="background-color:#ffbfbf;"|-
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| − | |style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| (38.6 km)
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| − | |style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| (45.6%)
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| − | |-
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| − | |style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Options
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| − | | colspan="2" | 75 km (3 Options & Variants)
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| − | |style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Exploration (EXP)
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| − | |style="background-color:#ffbfbf;"|-
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| − | |style="background-color:#ffbfbf;"|-
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| − | |style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| (68.9 km)
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| − | |style="background-color:#c2edfc;"|(81.4%)
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| − | |-
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| − | |
| |
| − | |style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Hiking
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| − | |style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Packrafting
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| − | | rowspan="4" style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"|
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| − | | colspan="2" style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Total on Water
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| − | |style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| '''13.2 km'''
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| − | |style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| '''15.6%'''
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| − | |-
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| − | |style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Attraction
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| − | |style="background-color:#ffbfbf;"|-
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| − | |style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| 4 (of 5)
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| − | | colspan="2" style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| River (RI)
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| − | |style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| 1.9 km
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| − | |style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| 2.2%
| |
| − | |-
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| − | |style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Difficulty
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| − | |style="background-color:#ffbfbf;"|-
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| − | |style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| 6 (of 5)
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| − | | colspan="2" style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Lake (LK)
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| − | |style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| 11.3 km
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| − | |style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| 13.3%
| |
| − | |-
| |
| − | | style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"|Direction
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| − | |style="background-color:#ffbfbf;"|None
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| − | |style="background-color:#c2edfc;"|Both ↓↑
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| − | | colspan="2" style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Fjord (FJ)
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| − | |style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| -
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| − | |style="background-color:#c2edfc;"|-
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| − | |-
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| − | |style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Comment
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| − | | colspan="7" | Hiking: Hiking not feasible
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| − | |-
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| − | |style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Character
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| − | | colspan="7" | Valdivian Rain Forest, Alpine Terrain, Settlers, Unpeopled Areas, Lake Packrafting
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| − | |-
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| − | |style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Challenges
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| − | | colspan="7" | Exposure to Elements, Bush Bashing, Demanding Navigation, Possibly Impassable, Exploration Required
| |
| − | |}
| |
Add a new log entry always on top in the appropriate season sub-chapter and use format:
If you are packrafting, put the above into like this <span style="background-color:aqua;">YYYY-MMM-DD / X days / Packrafting / SOBO / RP / Your name</span>. If you follow a hiking route for part of the way, highlight only "packrafting".
Summary with remarks to route that are considered useful for other hikers and packrafters. Include alerts, suggestions and personal perception of attractiveness and difficulties. Try to be specific. Do not be shy to fix obvious mistakes.
In the 10 years of investigating and publishing the GPT this has been the most diverse, intense and longest exploration trip.
Lago O’Higgins is not completely unknown in the travelers world but most hikers and cyclists perceive this lake rather as an obstacle then as a region to explore. Lago O’Higgins is located between the southern terminus of the Carretera Austral and the hiking mecca El Chalten. Hikers and cyclists that wish to connect along the Carretera Austral from Cerro Castillo or Parque Patagonia to El Chalten often take the ferries that cross this lake from Villa O‘Higgins to Candelario Mancilla but furious wind can result in waiting times of more then one week.
While visiting Villa O’Higgins in recent years we learned more about the handful of settlers living remotely on the shores of this lake. The first settlers arrived around 100 years ago by boat coming from the Argentine side of this bi-national lake. And satellite images provided some information about the trails in the vicinity of this octopus-like lake with numerous arm. After years of contemplating we reserved a good part of this season to venture on this lake and to visit the settlers.
Lago O’Higgins is infamous for the often furious wind that can last for days. Especially in summer wind rarely stops making any packrafting attempt an exercise of patience. Of the 30 days at the lake we spend 10 days waiting but these days were “value time” because we stayed at the homesteads of the settlers and tasted their way of life.
Highlights of the trip have been:
- Searching and documenting the barely travelled trail from Villa O’Higgins via Lago Negro to El Taitao
- Spending 10 days with Andrea and Susana Mancilla on Isla Central that became our “base camp” for exploring Brazo Poniente
- Packrafting and hiking Brazo Poniente all the way to the glaciers that creep down from the Southern Patagonian Icefield
- Spending 7 days with Ema Mera and Leo Muñoz at their homestead Rio Condor that became our “base camp” to visit Brazo Sudoccidental and the Southern Patagonian Icefield
- Investigate a new cross-country hiking route to a viewpoint of Glacier O’Higgins that was probably never walked before
- Traversing the Pensinsula La Carmela from Glaciar Gaea to Lago Chico and crossing this lake by packraft next to Glaciar Chico
- Ascending on the Southern Patagonian Icefield along Glaciar Chico to Paso Marconi with the mountain guide Leo Muñoz
- Arranging food shipments with the supply boat that 3 times per month visits the settlers of Lago O’Higgins
The balanced combination of hiking, packrafting and living with the settlers made this 30-day trip an intense but not tiresome experience.
A detailed route description and recommendations will be provided with the next update of the Hikers Manual.
