GPT77 (PN Pumalin Norte)

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* Start Date to Finish Date (use Format YYYY-MMM-DD) / Duration in Days / Hiking or Packrafting / Travel Direction (SOBO for Southbound or NOBO Northbound) / Chosen Route and/or Option Name (RR for Regular Route) / Names or Alias

Summary with remarks to route that are considered useful for other hikers and packrafters. Include alerts, suggestions and personal perception of attractiveness and difficulties.

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Section Log, Alerts and Suggestions

Season 2021/22

• 2021-Nov-30 / Hiking / SOBO / Option from Hornopiren to Chaiten (GPT77 and GPT76) / Meylin Elisabeth Ubilla González and Jan Dudeck

With the land border between Chile and Argentina still closed hikers can not cross into Argentina on section GPT22 but can continue hiking southbound by walking section GPT78 from Rio Puelo to Hornopiren. See my previous post to this section.

From Hornopiren two daily ferries carry passengers and cars to Caleta Gonzalo. The early ferry departs in Hornopiren at 8 am and a second ferry departs in Hornopiren at 10:30 am.

Both ferries go to Leptepu from where a bus carries passengers (without a car) to Fiordo Largo (approx. 12 km). From Fiordo Largo a second ferry carries cars and passengers to Caleta Gonzalo. On the later ferry that departs at 10:30 in Hornopiren is the daily bus that departs in the morning in Puerto Montt and arrives at 16:00 in Chaiten.

Hikers can sweaten this ferry trip by visiting the Termas de Porcelano about 4 km north of Leptepu. These natural hot springs are one of the finest in this region. This requires a boat transfer from Leptepu to Punta Porcelana and back (about 20’000 to 30’000 CLP per boat with up to 6 passangers). A nearby hospedaje offers accommodation (about 25’000 CLP per day per person including meals). Alternatively hikers may ask for permission to camp near the beach.

On two days per week (Tuesday and Friday) a subsidized small ferry (passengers only) visits all the tiny settlements between Hornopiren and Leptepu including Punta Porcelana next to the hot spings what cuts cost of the boat transfer (only one boat transfer for about 15’000 CLP from Punta Porcelana to Leptepu). This subsidized ferry departs at 1 pm in Hornopiren and is called Serenade II.

Contacts:

Boat transfer between Leptepu and Punta Porcelana and accomodation near Punta Porcelana: Mabel +56-9-87696084

Termas de Porcelana: Marlyn +56-9-90978870 (you may buy bread and homemade marmalade from Marlyn)

Subsidized ferry Serenade II: Alejandro Jobis +56-9-87696084 (Tuesday and Friday only).

Hikers the plan to walk section GPT76 from Caleta Gonzalo to Chaiten may take the early ferry that departs at 8:00 am in Hornopiren and check after arrival in Caleta Gonzalo if a boat is available to carry hikers towards Loyola to hike section GPT76 southbound.

If there is no boat available in Caleta Gonzalo hikers best wait for the second ferry that arrives 2:30 h later. On the second ferry is the bus to Chaiten. From Chaiten hikers can walk section GPT76 northbound. Once in Loyola hikers will find more people with boats in this larger settlement so it is generally easier to arrange a boat transfer from Loyola to Caleta Gonzalo than the other way around.

• 2021-Nov-30 to 2021-Dec-06 / 7 days / Packrafting / Hornopiren to Caleta Gonzalo, NoBo and SoBo (Leptepu-Termas de Porcelana-Cahuelmo-Laguna Abascal-Vodudahue) / Meylin Elisabeth Ubilla González and Jan Dudeck

The often strong wind in these fjords makes packrafting challenging and more risky if attempted with an open packraft without spraydeck. Therefore a decked packraft is the recommended gear.

The recommended travel direction is southbound due to the predominant wind direction.

Packrafting should only be attempted if the weather forecast predicts calm weather or moderate wind only.

On good-weather days with the typical daily wind pattern the morning from sunrise to about 10 am or noon is generally calm and them the “viento sur” kicks in that lasts till 5 pm or 7 pm. The “viento sur” quickly builds up high waves thats makes packrafting unpleasant or even impossible especially with an open packraft. Therefore it is essential to get up in the night and start paddling with the first daylight around sunrise. The best days for packrafting are overcasted calm days. On such days “viento sur” is less dominant.

Two legs require paddling 20 km in one go between suitable camps (Pichanco to Termas de Cahuelmo / Termas de Cahuelmo to Huinay). So getting up early and racing against the clock is essential to not get pinned down by strong wind halfway.

Highlights are the Termas de Cahuelmo, Laguna Abascal and the Termas Porcelana.

Termas de Cahuelmo: Are located at the eastern end of the Fiordo Cahuelmo. The pools offer the perfect view into the fjord. A refuge facilitates cooking in rainy weather. There are several spots for tents in forest next to the hot springs.

Laguna Abascal: Is location about 3 km east of the Termas de Cahuelmo. At low tide packrafters can walk 1 km cross-country to the trailhead, otherwise packrafters better paddle by packraft to the trailhead as the river arms quickly become flooded by the rising tide. From the trailhead a well maintained 2 km short trail leads to Laguna Abascal. Paddling this lake by packraft is highly recommended. The lake is surrounded by steep mountains with few beaches for camping. We slept one night in the refuge at the trail end next to Laguna Abascal and returned on the next morning to the Termas de Cahuelmo.

Termas de Porcelana: Are located 4 km north of Leptepu and definitely worth a visit. You can ask for permission to camp next to the beach. Contact Marlyn +56-9-90978870 (you may buy bread and homemade marmalade from Marlyn)

In Leptepu is a nice refuge right where the ferries arrive.

From Leptepu packrafters may walk the road and enter the Fundo Pillan to get to Estero Pillan where you may camp next to the beach. The 12 km from Estero Pillan to Caleta Gonzalo are feasible against the predominant wind direction in a calm morning if leaving with sunrise. Strong tidal currents occur at narrow at the river delta of Rio Renihue. If needed leave the packraft and pull it against the current along the edge of the river delta.

Sections GPT74P and GPT76 are only recommended in northbound direction (river flow direction and predominant wind). Therfore, after arrival in Caleta Gonzalo best take the bus to Chaiten that arrives with the ferry in Cateta Gonzalo around 15:00 and take a second bus to Puerto Cardenas after resupplying in Chaiten.

• 2021-Dec-03 to 2021-Dec-06 / 3 days / Packrafting / Hornopirén to Chaitén, SoBo (GPT77 and GPT76 Option 3) / Tobías Schorcht

Did the stretch from Hornopirén to Caleta Gonzalo in a open Packraft in 3 days. The most challenging Parts are the Canal Comau and the Fjordo Largo. Watch carefully the tides and wind and stay close to the shore, since the weather can change quickly.

From Caleto Gonzalo I did some roadwalking through Parce Pumalin, went up to the viewpoint Volcán Chaitén and took the Option 3,GPT76 down to Chaitén. I would Not recomment to do that. At least not southbounded. It requires a lot of Nalca bashing and climbing by the River Chaitén. I felt down once and hurt my shoulder badly. Better take the Option Jan recommented (Loyola, Chumelden).

Season 2019/20

• 2019-Dec-30 / Hiking / SOBO / Martín Lizondo

At Hornopiren there are three ferries. Leaving schedule is at 9 am, 10:30 am and at 00 hs from Hornopirén. Reservation is made the day before or the same day since 8:30 am. There’s a bus between Leptepu and Fiordo Largo, with an obligatory boat transfer included to Caleta Gonzalo. The trip takes around 5 hours. Cost = CLP 5700.

In Caleta Gonzalo there’s a camping with services.

GPT 76: The boat to Loyola and Chumilden leaves Caleta Gonzalo on monday, tuesday, wednesday and friday. Conract: Roberto Btos +56 9 85564749. Cost = CLP 2400 per person. Also locals travel by small boats between Caleta Gonzalo to Loyola and Chumilden and can pick you up for some money.

Season 2018/19

• 2018-Dec-03 to 2018-Dec-07 / GPT77P Fjordo Comau Leptepu / Packrafting Northbound / Meylin Elisabeth Ubilla González and Jan Dudeck

We just investigate this packrafting section that connects Caleta Gonzalo with Hornopiren. This section consists of 90 km packrafting in four fjords and 10 km of road walk. When combined with GPT73P (Lago Yelcho), GPT74P (Rio Yelcho) and GPT76P (Canal Desertores) a more than 250 km long continuos packrafting traverse is formed with just 10 km walking. (We investigated these sections last season.)

Pro: Amazing views all along the way, plenty of wild life (i.e. sea lions, pingüinos, dolphins) and up to four hot springs on the way. The highlight are the Baños Cahuelmo (fantastic natural hot springs from 35 to 40 degree C) that are hidden at the end of side fjord. I’m considering to rename this section to “Fiordos Termales”.

Cons: This is without doubt one of the more challenging packrafting routes of the GPT. For safety reasons this traverse should only be attempted with: 1. a packraft that incorporates a spreydeck, 2. plenty spare food and 3. without a tight timeline. Depending on wind a packrafter might need to wait days for better conditions in a remote location without any alternative land exit route. We were extremely lucky and had 5 days with mostly sunshine and optimal wind conditions. The “salmoneras” (maned salmon cultures) don’t add to the beauty but provide a last resort if running into problems on the way.

Wind: I’m unsure if there is a clearly preferable travel direction due to different predominant wind directions in these fjords. We choose to travel northbound based on the adjacent sections we did before and plan to do afterwards. If GPT77P is done uncombined with other sections southbound might be slightly beneficial.

On a normal nice day expect relatively calm conditions between dawn and 10 o’clock in the morning. Than wind starts to pick up entering from the Pacific Ocean and following the directions of the fjords inland. Therefore be on the water paddling with the first light of the day. If you you leave after sunrise you might be too late. In poor weather you might not be able to advance for several days. Especially the two 21 km long legs from Huinay to Baños Cahuelmo and from the Baños Cahuelmo to Pichamco should be paddled each on one morning as there are no suitable campsites on the cost (only some inconvenient emergency exits).

Tides: Tides are significant and tidal currents effect most fjords. Based on our measured speed tidal currents were typical 1 to 2 km/h; sometimes in favor, sometimes opposing. In two areas the tidal currents exceed clearly the packrafting paddle speed: 1. At the narrow formed by sediment cone of Rio Reñihue (km 7 to km 9 counted from Caleta Gonzalo). We only passed this narrow against the tidal flow by paddling hard and sailing with strong backwind through the shallower area. 2. The mouth of Fiordo Quintupeo (km 74 to km 76 counted from Caleta Gonzalo). Keep distance and paddle through more open water and not close to the cost especial when the tide is rising (you will otherwise be sucked into this fiord without being asked and may capsize in the strong eddies).

Water: There are plenty of streams running down the mountains. Anyway fill up all your water containers at the beginning of the two longer traverses in case you need to seek refuge in between if the wind and waves make it impossible to reach the next suitable campsite.

Access: There is a daily ferry between Hornopiren and Caleta Gonzalo. Southbound: 09:00 to 14:00 Northbound: approx 16:00 to 21:00 Alternative is the daily ferry between Hornopiren and Leptepu Southbound: approx. 10:30 to 13:00 Northbound: approx. 14:00 to 16:30

Accomodation: The settler in Huinay offers accommodation and food (15’000 CLP including dinner and breakfast per person). Apart from this there are no resupply possibilities on the route. You must rely on what you carry.

Hornopirén: We stayed in a nice inexpensive cabaña (25’000 CLP) and left some extra gear with the owner Melania. / Mobile: +56-9-42317571 / EMail: melania1.2@hotmail.com (Spanish only!)

Transport to and from Route

• 2021 / Meylin Elisabeth Ubilla González and Jan Dudeck

From Hornopiren two daily ferries carry passengers and cars to Caleta Gonzalo. The early ferry departs in Hornopiren at 8 am and a second ferry departs in Hornopiren at 10:30 am. Both ferries go to Leptepu from where a bus carries passengers (without a car) to Fiordo Largo (approx. 12 km). From Fiordo Largo a second ferry carries cars and passengers to Caleta Gonzalo. On the later ferry that departs at 10:30 in Hornopiren is the daily bus that departs in the morning in Puerto Montt and arrives at 16:00 in Chaiten. (...) Contacts: Boat transfer between Leptepu and Punta Porcelana and accomodation near Punta Porcelana: Mabel +56-9-87696084 Termas de Porcelana: Marlyn +56-9-90978870 (you may buy bread and homemade marmalade from Marlyn) Subsidized ferry Serenade II: Alejandro Jobis +56-9-87696084 (Tuesday and Friday only).

Permits, Entry Fees and Right-of-Way Issues

• 2021 / Meylin Elisabeth Ubilla González and Jan Dudeck

With the land border between Chile and Argentina still closed hikers can not cross into Argentina on section GPT22 but can continue hiking southbound by walking section GPT78 from Rio Puelo to Hornopiren. See my previous post to this section.

Links to other Resources

Retired Section Article GPT77 - PN Pumalin Norte

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