GPT10 (Laguna El Barco)

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* '''Start Date to Finish Date (use Format YYYY-MMM-DD) / Duration in Days / Hiking or Packrafting / Travel Direction (SOBO for Southbound or NOBO Northbound) / Chosen Route and/or Option Name (RR for Regular Route) / Names or Alias'''

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* <span style="background-color:aqua;">'''YYYY-MMM-DD / X days / Packrafting / SOBO / RP / Your name'''</span>.

Include remarks about your route useful for other hikers and packrafters, alerts, suggestions and personal perception of attractiveness and difficulties. Try to be specific. Do not be shy to fix obvious mistakes.

Section Log, Alerts and Suggestions

Season 2024/25

2024-Dec-16 to 2024-Dec-18 / 2.5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR / Sean & Neele

Not much to say for this section it's pretty straight forward. We did it in a relaxed 2.5 days to avoid spending the night in Trapa Trapa but its easily doable in 2.

25.2km water - there was a small stream flowing well here. Could have saved us carrying so much water to camp up on the plateau.

Resupplied at the red shop (S 37.42745, W 71.15386) in trapa trapa, they had ramen cookies, chocolate etc. She also sold us a big loaf of bread. Not great for a full resupply but enough for us to top up for a few days.

Continued on to 9

• 24-12-11 - 24-12-12/ 2 days/ SOBO / RR/ Volker

A section of beauty and peace There are few technical things to say about this section, perhaps this: on the way from the valley up to the pass use your device more often than you might feel it is necessary. There are many trails and yours is often not the one you see in front of you, but the overgrown or blocked by a broken tree to your right or left. The moment you arrive at the first Araucaria trees (though some on the way down to Trapa Trapa on gpt09) is just overwhelming. Camped at Laguna Liay, when I arrived there, I just didn’t want to leave this place. Day 2: After the short first day, this one promised to become a long one. The plateau is just breathtaking, even after 08+09 the days before. At Laguna El Barco no food, no wifi, but a great opportunity to cool down in the lake. Some km later on RR the MR (good to walk, few rubble, shadow) passes a house, the sheep ran away from me, a lamb left behind, I draw the attention of a woman to the lamb - and was invited for lunch with that very nice „spanish“ (not Pehuenche) family. Arrived at Guallali at 6.30 p.m., presented at the carabineros (very friendly!), the officer brought me to the „shop“, which is hidden in a garden house (don‘t expect any meaningful resupply). Camped not far, to the right of RR11, in a small valley beyond some Eucalyptus and Araucaria trees (river not far, but deep down). Two women passed by, first sceptical, then offered to join them and get some bred (declined).

• 3Dec2024 - 5dec2024 / hiking SOBO / RR -varC - RR / 2 days / Clara

The ascent and descent of the plateau are awesome, full of araucaria trees and beautiful landscapes of the montains around. Sad that I've to hurry because of bad weather comming. Fords : easy Snow : big snow fields from about 1700m alt but easy to cross. Water : still full on the plateau at this period. Navigation : often many paths but easy to find the good one with the GPS. A bit more difficult to follow on the ascent after puesto at 14.5. And also around the pass cause the path often goes under the snow fields so needed more gps to stay in the good direction. Var C : the lake is really nice. Made it with not so much bushbashing by staying closest as possible to the tracks, gps in hand at least at the begining. Camp : around 8km (water) and camping at laguna el barco was open (5000 CLP/pers/night)

Arrive in Guallali before the rain : Eat and sleep at the point mini-market with Romina and her family. 30kCLP for bed + lunch + dinner + breakfast. Mini market : pasta, soups.

Entel phone coverage.

2024-Nov-26 to 2024-Nov-28 / 2.5 Days / Hiking / SOBO / RR - C, D / Karin

Camp: camp near laguna Liay (km0.1 var D) / Campamento Laguna El Barque (km32.9)

The MR/trail is easy to follow, except for the ascent after puesto km14.5, where the trail is no well visible. All along the valley from Trapa Trapa to the late puesto were a lot of small streams running over the road. Some were easy to cross without getting wet feet, others were a bit bigger, but never more than mid-calf.

From an altitude of 1760m was still snow. The snow on the pass and the plateau was managable, but slows down quite a bit and makes navigation more challenging. This on a distance of about 8km.

As there is still snow, there is a lot of water. Even on the plateau were a few streams, which will probably dry out during summer.

The camping at the Laguna El Barque was still closed. I asked two men how were working on the cabañas if I could pit up the tent anyways. This was not a problem and they did not charge me for this. At the camping were sanitary instalations, tables...

I arrived Guallalí at 12hrs. Because of the snow, I decided to go to Los Angeles. The carabineros station was empty, so I went to the minishop (gpt 11 km0.1) and asked when the buses leave. The owner told me that there is only one bus everyday at 5.30 am. But I could try to hichhike. While waiting, two locals came by and told me that in the next community (Chenqueco) are more cars going to/in direction of Ralco and that from there I would be more lucky. About 5min later a car drove by and took me to this community. From there I hichhiked again.

Season 2023/24

• 2024-03-18 to 2024-03-19 // 1,5 days // Hiking // NOBO // RR // Quentin Clavel

I was a bit anxious on that section because of a big fire on the valley of the vokcan Copahue. Everything was under the steam all around, and with a big smell of fire. Few helicopters passed, and I was seriously questioning myself to continue or not.

Fortunately for me the track change of the valley to reach the beautiful Laguna El Barco.

It was late on the season so there were absolutely no one there. But In season that would be a great camp spot (event if it's probably popular and not so quiet as there's a lot of camping places).

Fill your water at the bottom of the valley because when you'll reach the plateau you'll have no water at all, until you go down to the valley.

Plateau is pretty nice, met a lot of people up there harvesting piñones. Easy horse track to follow. Ground is sandy and very steamy on the way down. Then you arrive on a valley with lot of water and lor of arrieros, great to chat with some of those that are leaving around there.

I crossed the Ford {10} [9.5/1171] then camo just after that. Had a great and quiet night there, happy to clean myself after a very dusty day, but I reckon it's gonna be like that for few sections further north aha !

Then easy track, gravel and road. No more ford to cross. Until the tiny trapa trapa.

Locals sent me to a kiosco, who Is situated very close to the point X {10} [0.0+0.3/937]. There's a ringtone, then a girl came to open the kiosco for a small resupply (tuna, fideos, chips and sweetness like candies, biscuits, and other stuff with a packaging of 90's that seems to be very bad for your body aha, but took it anyway).

• 2024-03-25 to 2024-03-29 / 5 days / SOBO / RR + new route + Copahue summit opt 2. + opt 1 down Copahue + Nathalie/Tomas new route + gpt11 nobo back to Guallalí / Marilyne

Day 1 - Started in Trapa Trapa around 15:30 and walked to right before camp 7.1. Hid in the forest to camp instead of using the nice grassy area as a lot of people on horses were using the trail.

Day 2 - Felt worried about the multiple puesto dogs and the aggressive person along the RR and option 1 so decided to try a new route to eventually rejoin GPT option 2, the trail to the summit of Copahue (pronounced Copaway). Went cross country going South from my 7.1 camp for a while until I started climbing East. Eventually joined a trail that seemed to get good use. There is probably no need to go cross country if you find the start of that trail… Left the trail at -37.78784, -71.25114 and went CC again on the plateau. Met a couple harvesting piñones and chatted with them. As I was leaving, their dog nipped my ankle… so much for avoiding dogs. Stopped by Laguna Negra (-37.81527, -71.21972) for lunch and water. Camped by a small lake at -37.83042, -71.20250. Beautiful views around that area. There were patches of old (last year’s) and new (last week’s) snow. In the evening, I went to investigate a direct route to Copahue up the peak at -37.83807, -71.20001, but felt that it was a little too exposed for me and my big backpack.

Day 3 - Took a slightly lower route on the West side of previously mentioned peak to Copahue from my campsite which worked great. Water at -37.83722, -71.20762 and also further depending on the snow quantity. Rejoined the marked OSM trail up to Copahue at around 2,750 meters of elevation, where I left most of my gear and went to the summit. The hike down from the volcano was very slow going, I followed the OSM route mostly but at times I was in between the GPT line and the OSM line. Went to check out the hot springs, which looked gross to me. Camped at -37.89625, -71.16599, on the road leading to Argentina.

Day 4 - I wanted to try the new option that Nathalie and Tomas have posted below for this section, so I followed the road to Argentina up to the valley that parallels the border and made my way to the ridge. Views from the ridge are spectacular and I enjoyed that part very much, following the border at first and ending up here: -37.95833, -71.11928. Difficulties came when I tried to come down the ridge following the route posted on FB. I backed out of the proposed “best route” as it was too exposed and scrambling-like for my liking. I ended up going down the steep talus slope for a while, traversing as Natalie described and ended up doing a fair amount of unpleasant bush-bashing to reach the trail at the bottom of the valley. There are probably better routes than the one I took though, I didn’t have the opportunity to study the satellite imagery very well before going :-). Looking back I should have walked in the creek bed earlier rather than fight with all the bamboo. Ended up with a fair amount of scratches and ripped pants. Camped shortly after I found the trail in the valley.

Day 5 - Used GPT11 NOBO to reach Guallalí. Stopped at the hot springs (6.6km/991) on the way to clean up a little. It was a holiday in Chile, Good Friday, and I met two groups of people from the city that were driving around this remote road for fun. Reached Guallalí and went to the carabineros station to ask about camp possibilities. They mentioned a metal bridge about 3 kilometers away but not in the direction that I wanted to go (Ralco). I hung out close to the bus stop thinking about what I would do and eventually two of them came out to talk to me again. They said that they have to be careful with strangers as they are the police and never know people’s intentions but that they’d like to invite me to have some of the lunch they had made. They also let me camp next to the station to catch the 5.30am bus the next morning after checking my passport. I think that the fact that I was a solo woman helped. As I learned from our discussion, new police officers get assigned to this station every month and stay there for the full month, so this might not be offered again in the future.

• 2024-03-26 to 2024-03-28 / 2 days? / NOBO / RR / Fangwen + Tobi

Combined with Sections 10/11 (~8 days, relaxed). See section 12 for our tips on pinones

Nothing to add that's not described below, except we found the native Pehuenche people friendly. We think it helps to great them in their language (Mari mari - hello; Chaltu may - thank you). This you can find with a bit of digging online. Would love to have interacted with them more - they seem friendlier up the valley at the puestos (not in trappa trappa).

No luck finding asado in this time of year due to touristic things shutting down (including campsite at Lago El Barco, completely deserted).

There is no bus out of Trappa on holidays, and didn't find anything but 2 types of cookies and ice cream at resupply point there. You can ask the locals to drive you (for a fee) - they referred to it as "Fleeta"(?)

• 2024-Mar-8 to 2024-Mar-11 / 2.5 days / SOBO / RR B / Matthias de Austria

No snowfields, all fordings very easy, plenty of (unmarked) water except from Puesto RR 14.5km (one stream a few hundred meters afterwards last water) to shortly before Laguna El Barco. Tabanos: 2

The valley south of Trapa-Trapa is first narrow but the open ups to a wide valley with a lot of puestos, mostly inhabited, which means a lot of dogs and cows, horses, sheep around. All marked campsites are completely full of animal feces, every single decimeter is covered. I camped around -37.78551,-71.27975 on sand next to the river, sandy and stony places are the only one without extrem amounts of shit. Stayed there another day just sleeping in the tent bc of all day raining. Next camp was a nice weather camp with great views but no water at -37.89069,-71.30189. Flat spot, no shit, very quiet, some boulders and bushes.

RR out of the valley up to thea area of Laguna Liay was a bit tricky. Seems part of RR are not in use anymore and overgrown ( -37.83346,-71.2705 ). I just followed the horse tracks which later went back to RR. it seems there are different paths going up.

Lake, camp 32.9km: camping 8000, picknick 5000. But nobody at the gate, so I just walk in, swimm a little and try to open my first Araucaria seed cone I harvested an hour before. Shortly before I leave someone asks if I paid the entry. Sorry bro, not going to pay 5000 for sitting 30min on a bench, so I just don't understand spanish at all until he gives up. Next to Laguna El Barco a wildfire puts a lot of smoke on the water, but no fire in the sky. 2 helicopters pour water on it the whole day. RR southeast of the Laguna was not affected, the fire (actually only lots of smoke) was on the other side of the valley about 1km away.

Rio Lomin had very brown-yellow water, but there are a few small clean unmarked streams further south RR.

Guallali tiny shop, no sign, just go over the little wooden bridge after the police and shortly before the school. Dog alarms child, child alarms mother. Mother opens shop. Mostly cola and chips, ice cream, some cookies, 3 packs of noodles and (worst quality) toilet paper.

Some really nice views at the waterless part, first massive amount of Araucaria trees, Laguna El Barco is kinda nice too, finally a lake with trees around! Lots of boring road walking at the beginnig and more so at the end of section with basically no traffic.

• 2024 Feb 28 to Feb 29 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Juliette and Martin

We combined sections 09 and 10 into 5 days of hiking. Beautiful sections with a diversity of landscapes: volcano, meadows, puestos...

Day 0: Trapa Trapa- Camp -37.76398, -71.28171

On our last day of the previous section, we hiked the first 7 km to this camp. Great bivouac spot not to be missed, next to a puesto with grass, water, horses and welcoming vegetation.

Day 1: Camp -37.76398, -71.28171 - Laguna El Barco:

Truly magnificent scenery and lots of puestos. The climb is pleasant and in the shade. As soon as you cross a river, it's easy (maximum knee-deep). From laguna Liay to laguna el barco, NO WATER. We initially wanted to camp between the two, but were forced to push on to laguna el barco to get water. The scenery is really beautiful and easy to walk on the plateau, and the aracaunia trees give it a unique atmosphere. Pay camping at el barco (8,000 pesos per person) with beach and friendly staff.)

Day 2: Laguna el barco - Guallali

A short day's descent. We stop at the bus stop indicated in the waypoints at 3pm. Only one bus a day from Guallali to Los Angeles at 5:30 am. We were lucky and hitchhiked to Ralco.

• 2024 Feb 13 to Feb 18 / 6 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR, Var C, Var D, some off GPT track / Michael and Kasia

We combined sections 9, 10, and 11 together.

TLDR: beautiful section with some very impressive araucaria forests. Technically easy but navigationally a little challenging due to so many trails branching everywhere. Laguna Liay is definitely worth visiting.

Day 1 - Feb 13

After finishing our resupply in Trappa Trappa, we started on RR. The road was fully exposed until we got up a ways into the forest. After that I had to watch the GPS fairly closely. As has been noted previously, the horse trails fork off in different directions, sometimes rejoining and sometimes not. The trail was pretty dusty, but the forest was beautiful. There was very little water access for quite awhile. We arrived at the camp point at km 7.1 with the Mapuche family. No one was at the house so we started looking around. I found Elías in another part of the property. He was very kind and said we were welcome to camp. He showed us a nice spot near a creek set away from the road. We had initially thought to camp more in the open area but he said that the road gets a lot of traffic in the night and the are some “mala gente” that pass through, so the spot he showed us was safer.

Day 2 - Feb 14

We started hiking early and the morning light on the landscape was absolutely beautiful. We stopped after the first ford, mid calf with little current, to have coffee and enjoy the area. We continued on passing a lot of puestos. Many seemed abandoned or falling apart, though there were people at several of them. We waved and they waved back, but they were fairly far from the road so we didn't go over to talk. We met our first other GPT hikers, Christof and Alex (hi guys! We hope you got the roasted chicken in Antuco!) We crossed the second ford, just under the knee, and had lunch and a nap and then started up to the pass. The path was mostly in forest, and though steep, we didn't find it difficult. We started on Var C to Laguna Liay sticking more to the OSM track than the GPT track. We got down to the lake and wanted to go all the way around to the north side, but part way up the trail started heading up to the plateau. We returned to the bottom and tried to walk in the water counterclockwise around the lake, but after only about 50 m there was a section where I was sinking deep into mud. We walked back to the south side beach and then walked the beach clockwise to get to the north side. There were a few fallen trees to climb over, but otherwise we had no issues going that way. On the north side there was a fairly sizable sand beach with a fire ring. We camped there.

Day 3 - Feb 15

We took a rest day at the lake. The atmosphere at the lake was so peaceful and the scenery was so beautiful. Not one person passed through that day, and it felt really amazing to have such a quiet, serene and beautiful place all to ourselves. It got hot during the afternoon so we retreated up into the woods a bit to get some shade. In the late afternoon I went to scout Var D for the next day. There isn't a full trail there really, but from the beach looking uphill I could see a brown stripe going up. It was a short BB to get to it and then a steep up. The trail forked after maybe 50 m. I first went left, but after a while it was all dead ends and started to lose elevation. I went back and tried the right fork with a combination BB/CC and was finally able to connect to a path. From there it was easy to get up to the plateau and then to the other marked campsite which was near a pond that had mostly evaporated for the season.

Day 4 - Feb 16

We started early to get over the pass before it got hot. We took the scouted approximate Var D up and then connected in with RR. The pass was easy and on the far side there was an incredible monkey puzzle forest. As noted there was no water. We took the OSM track up just before the descent to Laguna El Barco for the lookout. The trail down to Laguna El Barco was somewhat steep but easy to follow. At the bottom it passes through a puesto on the way to the road. The guy there also rents camping sites. The El Barco campground is somewhat chaotically managed. We arrived on a Friday and it was packed with vacationing Chilenos. Posted price was 5.000 pp for the picnic area day use and 8.000 pp for camping. They offered 6.000 pp without a table, which we took. It turns out that that is for essentially an unused parking spot next to the road. We would have left, but it was too late to go anywhere else. A very nice couple happened by as we were setting up and said they were about to leave and we could have their spot which had a table and was away from the road. We thanked them and moved up. The shop seems not to be operating this year. The small building it was in was empty and the door was just hanging open. There were two groups selling food, one at the entrance selling tortillla, a fairly large and dense bread cooked directly in the ash in the fire for 2.000 each, some smaller pan amasado, sopaipillas 500 each, a fried dessert bread dusted in powdered sugar 3 for 1.000, and churasco for 4.000. They also had sodas, 1.200 for a 591 ml bottle. The other group was at a camp just past the lower bathrooms, and two of them walked around the campground periodically as well. They had tortilla 2.000 each, sopaipillas 2 for 1.000, and some kind of tea. The second place had our favorite tortillas, we ate several of them. The churrasco was a disappointment. I was thinking Bolivian churasco which is just grilled meat. These were sandwiches with a couple thin strips of meat simmered in liquid in a frying pan and then put on huge breads with a slice of tomato, a bit of lettuce and some mayo. They were okay, but not what I had expected.

Day 5 - Feb 17

We left late and hiked RR. On the other side is another much smaller and more laid back campground. It is run by the couple that lives there. Price was 6.000 pp with a table. They had a toilet and sinks, no shower. They sold tortillas on request, 2.000 each, but the woman, Clementina, makes them when she's making their food, so it can be awhile. We bought 5 of them and they were larger than the ones in the campground. Wrapped in paper towels and kept in plastic bags, these lasted us almost 5 days.

Day 6 - Feb 18

We continued on RR with the intention to head to Guallalí. Along the way we meet a Mapuche arriero, Hector, at his pesto (-37.95912, -71.26119). If you pass by there and he is around, definitely make some time to talk with him. He was incredibly kind and generous, offered us coffee, took us to his animal corral to pet the goats, told us about the political structure in the Mapuche comunidades, and even showed us some of the medicinal plants in the area. He also sells goats and sheep and does asados, but we didn't ask the price. We were about to leave when a friend of his arrived to pick something up for a really important Mapuche ceremony that was finishing that day. His friend gave us a ride, which took us off the GPT track a bit, but dropped us very near a shop at (-38.01007, -71.30695) run by a woman named Maria that actually had a good selection of stuff. We bought pasta, a queso mantecoso from the region that lasted 3 days, her last can of Nescafé, some tomatoes and cucumbers, Zukos, and cookies. She also had eggs, frozen meat, sodas, beer, yogurt, a few other types of cheese, and various other things. Prices were very reasonable. She had a small table and a bench outside the shop and let us stay there to have lunch and repack. More than a dozen cars stopped by to buy things while we were there, so it seems like a pretty popular spot. From there we walked on the highway towards Comunidad Vilcuncura and on towards Comunidad Chenqueco. We passed one other shop at (-38.01473, -71.31626) that looked sizable and had a range of things, though we didn't buy anything there. In Comunidad Chenqenco we connected with GPT11 Opt 5A.

• 2024-Feb-13 to 2024-Feb-14 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + OH E / Joscha

I combined section 9 to 12. It took me 7.5 days in total.

Day 1: RR [0.0-21.9]

Both Fords are easy below knee + the RR crosses a few more streams during the first 14 km. There is no water on RR after the Ford at km 14.1 until km 32.1.

Day 2: RR [21.9-32.1] + OH10-E + RR [45.1-47.5]

At km 32.1 (right before the start of OH10-E is a creek and some tables around. I think it belongs to a campsite there, but nobody cared that I did a break there. OH10-E is a big dirtroad with no water until km 8.4. I bought some cookies in the mini shop in Guallali + they allowed me to charge my power bank. After that I continued with section 11.

• 2024-Feb-12 to 2024-Feb-14 / 2.5 days / Hiking / NOBO / Guallali - Trapa-Trapa / RR + Option D/ Alex & Christophe

It was a nice and easy section. For us, the Laguna Liay would deserve to be on RR. It was one of the most beautiful and peaceful campspot we had this season.

We also camped on the official campground at Laguna El barco. It was still 8000 CLP pp and the place was crowded with all the Chileans on holiday. The beach is nice but the campground is really dusty (as most of the section). There were also two families selling food (tortillas, sopaipillas and some other things).

By the way, there is no more snow on the plateau so take plenty of water to cover the distance between Lago El Barco and Laguna Liay.

• 2024-Jan-14 to 2024-Jan-16 / 2,5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Hannes

From Trapa Trapa I went in this long valley, it is pretty packed with puestos. Had to check a few times the GPS in there, was quite often on a wrong trail. Many puestos create their own trail network…Went up to Laguna Liay and camped directly at the shore. I figured out two reachable beaches where you can put on one or two tents, one beach at the NW-shore, the other SE-shore. I camped at the second. Option 10D brings you down to it, but actually I could not find a real trail. This Laguna is just an amazing place, for me there was not just silence but peace! The special echo in this place has an effect. Next day I went to Laguna El Barco, for camping you have to pay. A huge laguna, beautiful, but with a check in and all the rules which apply. I do not like this. I went further and a few km before Guallalí I asked a Settler if I could sleep on his Eukalyptus plantation. The 3rd day I walked to Guallalí and stocked up for GPT 11 in the minimarket. For cigarettes I went to a house at -38.050512, -71,272100. There is a woman who sells tobacco and if you kindly ask her she might sell you one of her homemade bread loafs. Ask for the house of Cololo.

• 2024-Jan-04 to 2024-Jan-05 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR - {10-C} - RR - {10-E} - RR / Lilian

After have a nice breakfast with the lovely family, i keep going south.

Km0 - km13.6 : easy walking, easy to follow.

Km13.6 : junction of RR and {10-01}.

Ford[14.1/1269] : if you are not decided go to {10-C} or visit Laguna Liay (lake), it is the last water until km33 Laguna El Barco ( or a stream just before this lake ).

Km14.47 : climb up start, the entrance is beside the corner of wooden fence.

Km15.65 : a sharp turning, after here trail become very overgrown, until km15.9. At km15.65 and km15.9, i both saw a clear path going to east, I'm not sure is it a new reroute by local and are they connect or not.

Km16.1 : junction of RR and {10-C} , I don't decide go for walk around the whole lake, but just want to visit it take a look, and collect some water.

{10-C} km0.33 : (-37.83379, -71.27817) a sandy slope steep going down, the trail to Laguna Liay (lake) is here, you can see some trail trace on the sandy slope. A little overgrown and sometimes fallen tree block your way, but mostly you can step over them. About 10min you will arrive a sandy beach (-37.83326, -71.28031) at km0.5. Not a camping spot, but here have some big trees fell in the lake, easy walking on them go to the lake for collecting better water. Good view point of Laguna Liay with Volcán Callaqui, i also saw some beautiful ducks with red brown body and blue beak swimming here!

After collecting water and a long nap, i decided back to RR, i took another trail on the sandy slope that closer to lake side (not shown on map), it is easy to follow and easy walk, lastly join RR at km16.5.

RR Km16.9 : what a beautiful grassland! Easy trail start, enjoy the land scape changing and Araucaria forest. I love this area!

Pass RR [20.6/1850] : large flat area ( Most of the section10 is flat area), nice view point of Volcán Callaqui! Also the first view ( for SOBO) of Volcán Tolhuaca!

Km26.6 : left side, Volcán Copahue!

Km31.4 : pass, from dirt road to trail going down, but before going down, there is a side trail to south for climbing up a small hill, just distance 500m and climb up 70m, go for it! Excellent view point of Laguna El Barco, Volcán Callaqui, Volcán Copahue and Volcán Lonquimay( Sierra Nevada behind it?) !

X[31.2/1469] : a campground with picnic table ( i think it is a paid area because a sign at front gate but didn't see anyone when i passed there) and a stream flowing nice with clear water just before it. If you don't decide go to Laguna El Barco for collecting water, it is the only water until Guallalí.

Because the weather becomes worse, very windy and cloudy, also the forecast said it maybe rain at afternoon, so i took {10-E}, shorter the distance rush to Guallalí.

Bus {10-E} [8.4/938] didn't find the shop that Martin & Helena said (close to Bus 10-E mark.) I asked the house owner beside the bus stop, and she said no shop there. I saw a sign beside the bus stop is erased away, also a banner looks like said "selling thing" already being discarded on the ground, so maybe the shop is closed no more? ( I'm not sure).

{10-E} km10.0 rejoin RR.

RR km46.05 : look like a very old shop, I saw a sign for candy and cigarettes, but the house is broken and no people there any more.

Shop {11} [0.1/951] : No sign for shop, it is a beautiful looking wooden house, cross a tiny wooden bridge to their front gate. A little better stock than i think before, more than the shop at Trapa Trapa and almost the same as Los Álamos. Pastas, rice, some canned food, biscuits, drinks and chips. Not picky and i resupply for 3 days food here. I asked for accommodation, and the female owner said can stay in their house, 30000 CLP for a single room(4 beds) with light, quilt and electric charger, shower(cold) with shampoo, dinner and breakfast, maybe can use their washer for laundry, but finally i use my hand for washing them, because my clothes are too dusty and don't want to pollut their machine. It has a feeling look like guesthouse at some tourist routes in Nepal, but of course the one in Nepal are much commercial.

Dinner is delicious for goat and rice! Although not much enough for hiker hunger (never enough), but it is one of the best meal i eaten in Chile so far. They are super friendly, i'm very happy staying here with them!

I saw a bus arrive Shop {11} [0.1/951] on friday 6pm, but I don't know where it come from.

(-38.04741, -71.27506) look like is the church that Maks& Gabi said. A tree with beautiful grassland, but no good water resources nearby, the river beside it is flowing brown water, also farming and people living at upstream.

• 2023 Dec 30 to Dec 31 / 2 days / hiking / SOBO / RR / Ella

TLDR: beautiful secluded camping on plateau but no water. be cognizant of tensions between Pehuenche and non Indigenous people

Day 1: Trail was beautiful and mostly easy to navigate. Camped that night at around 11 km on the right side of the river, pushed back into the trees quite a bit. Chose not to camp at one of the marked campsites near the puestos because I became a bit worried about the large number of beer cans I was seeing along the way, and I didn’t meet any women at any of the puestos. Though I’m sure there’s mostly very kind people in this valley and I had no encounters that made me feel otherwise, I didn’t feel like taking my chances as a young solo woman given a few past reports on this section. However, it was a challenge to find a camping spot that felt both safely hidden and like I wasn’t on someone’s land without permission (though I probably still was) - there’s many more puestos in this valley now than appear on the waypoints, and there’s also loads of cows and horses grazing! If you find yourself in a similar position to me, I highly recommend just mustering up the energy to hike up to the plateau and camp about a kilometer in. Very nice and secluded spots up there. You would just need to bring a lot of water because there’s none until Laguna El Barco.

Day 2: Plateau was beautiful, but keep an eye on the GPS. As others have said, you have to pass through what is now a campsite with a gate just before the main road to Laguna El Barco, but no one was there so I didn’t get charged. Laguna El Barco camping was nice and lively on New Year’s eve. The store is still not set up yet, but the staff charged my devices for me. If you continue on the RR for about a km you will find the wooden sign for Entel service which did work for me. Just be aware that you have to walk by what is demarcated as a “dangerous zone” on Pehuenche land. I’m not quite sure what this means, but when I was walking to get service someone I passed warned me of it as well…

Next day I got a ride from someone leaving the campground to Ralco (2 hour drive!). Bigger market was open even when nothing else was on a national holiday (January 1) and had good options. Camped at Camping Nativo about a 30 min walk outside of town, which is close to a great river spot and has sinks, outlets and even a shower!

Given the tensions between the Pehuenche and non Indigenous people on the lands that this trail crosses, I’m curious if we, as non Indigenous hikers, should think about having a broader conversation to understand what kind of place we have (if any) in using these lands. Ideally with direct input from Pehuenche people themselves. Both for the sake of respecting the people of these lands and feeling safe as hikers.

• 2023 Dec 22 to Dec 26 / 4,5 days / hiking / SOBO / RR & part Option 1 & Completely new option / Tomáš & Natalie

Note: Our path was of course convoluted. We walked the optional route 10-01 to Volcán Copahue last year. It is splendid and recommended for our option, but this time we opted for the RR, as we have not walked it previously. We came back to the area to find a new connection that would avoid almost 25 km of unpleasant roadwalking after Laguna El Barco. We suceeded, see below.

We followed the regular route to Laguna el Barco. The route and the Laguna are indeed very pleasant. We paid 1000 each to be able to pass through (?) and use the camping tables for lunch. The store was closed even on Saturday (Dec 23). About 300m from the lagoon, there is a sign about Entel coverage and 4g indeed works decently there. We then took the minor road to the hot spring under Volcan Copahue (elevation 1812, name Pucon Mahuida).

No cars seem to be using the road, especially the second part is quite eroded and after the hot spring it is bordering on impassable for cars. The hot spring is still nice. We then followed the road to an incredibly beautiful valley under Copahue. Few hundred metres before reaching Argentina, we left the road and shortly found a path that traversed into the valley in the south next to the border. The path petered out once we got above the bushes. It was really easy to reach the ridge and folow it (and the Argentinian border) to 37.9575000S, 71.1211474W. With snow all around on the slopes and with condors circling us, it was stunning (the ridge is mostly snow free). Made camp under the summit next to a 10m-high wall of ice for wind protection. There was no path but walking was easy, the ridge is rather flat and wide.

There are three options we explored from there on. The recommended one is the last one we explored, but here they follow in chronological order. Continuing on the ridge towards Cerro Dedo would require climbing or exposed traversing (if one dropped to Argentina, one could probably find a path to reconnect to GPT after Cerro Dedos if there ius no police in the area). Instead we went down side of the mountain roughly to here: 37.9650794S, 71.1206588W (it was steep but full of stones, so not slippery and we did not think it was dangerous). Then we started traversing (it did not feel exposed, but was a bit strenuous) until about here: 37.9792148S, 71.1245764W, from where we started going down a narrow ridge that was flanked by creeks on both sides. Again it was not dangerous and first half was good CC (like all the previous traverse), the second half was part cow trail (with cow poop), part bush bashing, but surprisingly easy and painless with long sleeeves.

At the bottom of the valley, we came out on a clearly visible trail. We went up it further into the valley, where there was a deserted puesto on a meadow under enormous araucaria trees with a magnificent views on snowy slopes full of huge waterfalls. We made camp.

In the evening, Tomáš then went to explore a scary looking ridge to reach this peak: 37.9767704S, 71.1623784W. It turned out not to be scary. The sidehill up the ridge is mostly without trees or bushes, so it is steep but good CC. Once up the ridge, one can go around the pinacles from the southern side (left facing up), occasionally using the tree branches as support - there is a little of easy climbing, but with no exposure. Then the ridge is steep and somewhat narrow but one can mostly go up only using poles and not hands. Altogether SAC 5. It was fun and pretty, but caution needs to apply. From the top, one could easily traverse north towards here: 37.9611427S, 71.1539942W.

The next day, we went up a ridge dividing the valley we slept in into two (this one: 37.9714484S, 71.1414231W). There is a trail up that branches off the main valley trail about 300 m downstream of the abandoned puesto. One goes up a slope for about 400m and then down to a ford and then up. There are a variety of cow trails with bamboo cut some time ago. It is partly bush bashing, but very easy and just a few hundred metres. Once up the steep slope, the trail is much clearer. Above the tree line, it is easy CC. Once you get up the main ridge, you can either go right to the peak we slept the days before (a walk up - no need to use hands, the rocky features can be easily skirted, SAC 3-4) or left to the coordinates that end the previous paragraph. From there one could go down to the valley in the north and either CC and ford (probably possible, but unceartain) or follow the road/path that is mapped in OSM (look it online, it was only added in late November) toward El Barco. Navigating this SOBO is much easier, we posted the GPX route of the most tricky part and a rough overall route painted over satellite image in the Facebook group and hopefully it will be included in the GPT next year [November 2024: it is in our suggstions together with a lot of exploratory options].

Going down the valley to reconnect to the GPT leading from Gaulali is easy 5 km on a clear trail. Once you hit car tracks (almost in the main valley) that will soon turn left, you can probably follow one of the trails going straight and save yourself maybe a 0.5 km detour to a puesto here: 38.0095590S, 71.1391237W. From the puesto, there is a very ugly road that was enlarged this year all the way to Guallali. Going NOBO, you reconnect to the trail going to Cerro Dedos very soon and thus almost entirely eclipsing the roadwalk. Plus our proposed new route is really pretty.

From Gaullali, there seems to be a daily bus leaving at 5.30 AM from in-front-of-the-turnoff-to-the-carabinieros-station. It goes to Ralco and then to Los Angeles. By mistake we first bought tickets to Ralco for 1300 and then to Los Angeles for 1500. It arrives in Ralco at 8:00 and stops there for 10 or so minutes. Next bigger stop is in Santa Barbara around 9:30. It arrives to Los Angels after 10:30. I think it goes back in the afternoon, possibly at 14:00, but ask at the station.

• 2023 dec 12 - dec 14 / 2 days / hiking / SOBO / RR + B + C + F / Frans

Took the bus from Ralco to Trapa Trapa, start of GPT10. 2 busses a day, 4.30 and 16.30. I was at the busstop at 4.10, but the driver probably didn't expect anyone and took a shortcut and therefore didn't pass the busstop. So if you want to take that one, walk 100m further to the crossing of the main road. 16.30 no problems, plenty of people taking that bus. Total of 2.5hrs to get to Trapa Trapa.

Missing the bus gave me time to explore Ralco a bit, plenty of shops, turist information center and a Museum about the Pewenche. Small, but worth a visit (1000 CLP).

Didn't explore anything in Trapa Trapa since I wanted to cover some gound before darkness. Did see some signs of shops tho. Easy trail, no issues here. Ended up to camp at: Camp 10 [7.1/1181]. Got woken up by some cows and horses in the morning.

Took the route (C) along the lake, also with the intention to get some extra water for the plateau. Although there was plenty at the plateau (for now), at least 5 good streams and more small ones. All because of the melting snow, so I don't know for how long that will be in the upcoming weeks.

Walk was easy, pass is easy, some snow/ice walking but all stable. You might be taking a little caution when it starts melting more but walk around the snow is also an easy option.

I camped at the plateau, almost at the end just before you walk into the greenzone again. On the right side is a flat spot next to some trees and bushes.

Next day via Laguna el Barco, some people camping there, no one at the entry so didn't had to pay anything. Easy walk again. Took option (F) and first house on the left after crossing the bridge had a sign that they sold ice cream. Stopped there, friendly people and as they told me they will sell more stuff in the future. It also looked like that, they were constructing a store, shelves, counter everything. Just no inventory yet. Unclear when they will, at least to me with my limited Spanish.

Reached Guillali easily, had a chat with the local Cabaniero. He gave me a Entell Sim-card so I could have cell service. Stayed at Romina. Bed, dinner, breakfast 30.000 CLP.

Really nice walk all along. Easy navigation, nice views and not really demanding terrain.

• 2023-Dec- to 2023-Dec-8 / 2,5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR + variant G + variant E + variant C / Yannick & Nolwenn & Jens

- Water : all markers are good and even more water present

- Snow : a little bit of snow around the pass, super easy to navigate

- Camping spot : easy to find - River crossing : easy

- Weather : Sunny

- Resupply : there is a small 'negocio' in Trapa Trapa, and you can have breakfast with a really nice family at the 'lodging and food'

- Option roads : Variant C - really nice lake, just a little bit of bushbashing to rejoin the RR

Season 2022/23

• 2023-Mar-07 to 2023-Mar-09 / 2.5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR / Iris, Alexis

After a night in Guallali, we continued on GPT10. This section is short and awesome, definitely worth hiking!

On Day 1, we decided to reach the camping of Laguna El Barco (Lake, Camp $ {10} [32.9/1292]). We managed to get two rides that shorten the day, and enjoyed an afternoon of rest in the campground (we cooked some pinones). As other as noted, the price is 8pp and the water in the shower ice cold. We were hungry for sopapillas but sadly, this late in the season, the shop was closed. Because we asked, we were able to buy tortillas (2k each) directly from the owners for the next morning. Expect heavy bread - one half is enough for a meal.

On Day 2, we hiked through the plateau. Of note, X {10} [32.1/1296] is now a gate (and a camp) and we were asked to pay 1pp for the right of way. The plateau is easy walking with a clear trail while filled with beautiful views. Better pack some water before because we did not find any before reaching the end of the descent in the forest (RR-TL-V {10} [13.6+2.5]). We camped at Camp {10} [9.6/1175], which is in a bosquet and wind sheltered.

• On Day 3, we finished the section until Trapa Trapa and asked for lodging at Mirellas (Lodging, Food {09-03E} [0.3/956]). It costs 20k pp for room / dinner / breakfast (no hot water). We were told there are some "thermas" close to -37.69656, -71.29006 but when asking our way, we were told it costs 4pp to use them. It did not seem worth it so we backtracked.

The three shops in Trapa Trapa are located at -37.71004, -71.26861 (closed when we passed by), -37.71040, -71.26661 (had various sweets, ice cream) and -37.71234, -71.25523 (the biggest of them). However, expect limited supplies (we could not find batterias nor sunscreen for the next sections).

Not much more to say on this section. We initially planned to go on 10-01 for the Volcan, but were told it would be a day of heavy rain and thus stayed on the RR (finally, not a single drop, just a little cloudy and windy).

• 2023-Feb-07 to 2023-Feb-10 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + option 01 Volcán Copahue / Natalie&Tomàš

The forest fire situation made planning for this extremely difficult. We packed for GPT 09-12 with volcano side trips but we had to skip 09 because of park closure and gamble on starting directly in Trapa Trapa. We took the direct bus to Trapa Trapa from Los Angeles, it was long... 5+hours and it leaves once a day at 2:15pm (Feb,2023). Although it was memorable, we think it would have been faster to bus to Ralco and try to hitch as there are "some" cars. The road condition looked as if it has been recently fixed and is being improved even more. Arrived in Trapa Trapa at ~7:30pm and started hiking right away. Beautiful town and valley. We were going to camp at km07 but there were people staying there with dogs so we moved on to the next river crossing not great for camping (there are nicer spots just a bit further).

Day2 Easy walk towards the junction for option 01 to volcán Copahue with a long conversation and piñone testing with "Pedro" from puesto 13.7. We were lucky to hike during the season that the piñones were dropping but sadly we did not find Laureline's cellphone:(. Our plan was to summit Copahue but my stomach bug came back and we stopped very early to camp, we had a few days of excess food so this was no problem. We camped near the large creek separating 01&01a -37.83511, -71.24072. The smoke was also getting us down. There is water here obviously, but there is also a nice water source earlier here: -37.83542, -71.24258. This trail (01) is slightly overgrown and the "aggressive puesto" @ 1.2 was locked up with no one there.

Day 3 We took option 01a (BB) to the pass. Tomáš had tested it the day before to see if it was BB but there was a path. Although we found the path the day before, we both got lost in the bamboo for the first bit but luckily once you get under the canopy of the Araucarias, the trail is clear and non-bushy, actually it is really pleasant! In the forest there is water here; -37.83520, -71.23177 and a small broken down puesto here; -37.83893, -71.22434. Out of the forest there is a beautiful grassy (and boggy) plateau with two puestos (one occupied) and lots of water (-37.84756, -71.22044). We spoke with the lady of the puesto and her 5yr old son: genuinely nice people! There is a trail from her puesto (-37.84760, -71.22095) that goes straight up East. The trail exists until you hit a waterfall-fed creek and the rocks start; -37.85161, -71.21874. from there on it is CC on grippy rocks, dirt and boulders. Last water source before the pass is not far; -37.85768, -71.21610 and would make a nice camp. Getting to this pass, although beautiful, took a long time! At the pass we dropped our bags and followed the osm route for volcán Copahue. The osm route was better than the GPT bcs it followed a firm snow patch for a good while making walking fast. There was a good stream of snow melt on the approach (-37.86132, -71.19051) and the walk to the summit was easy, some loose little boulders. The summit was well worth it as the crater of Copahue is very impressive; a large broken glacier with a beautiful glacier lake. We think apart from our climb of Azul it was the nicest volcano so far. The way down to Termas de Pucon Mahuida was very slow going. Followed the osm route rather than GPT bcs it seemed more accurate.However it was still CC on rocks almost the whole way. Up high there is water here; -37.87362, -71.20509 and "some" spots for camping. Later there is a scenic valley good for water and camping, nice views of Copahue's glacier; -37.87753, -71.19874. We followed this valley down until we had to cross out of it, once leaving this valley there is no drinking water until the hot springs. We camped at the hot springs which are a good temperature, one small pool but I think there are more higher up. The area around is not good for camping and very boggy, we found one half decent spot. Unfortunately Tomáš had his turn with the stomach bug and the smoke crept in strongly overnight. We rested late until the next day.

Day4 We rested until late morning as Tomáš was still barely recovered from his stomach bug and walked the long road to Guallalí.

The beginning of the road could have been some of my favorite scenery so far, The Araucaria trees surpassed my expectations and especially when they are backdropped with mountains and at one time an orange river (glacier water flowing through sulphur like sediment?), it feels like the era of the dinosaurs. The road for option01 had plenty of good water sources (~5x). Friendliest dogs at this puesto; -37.95898, -71.26155 and a teeny tiny amount of water. Luckily got a hitch with a local to the bus stop shortly after the intersection with 01 and RR. From there we walked about 3 km to Guallalí.

• 2023-Jan-25 to 2023-Jan-27 / 2.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Maks& Gabi

Really quick section. We started about 2 pm on 25.01 and finished about 2 pm on the 27.01. Nice and easy with visible trail and no problems from the locals (all of them really nice). There is no water between 14 and 33km even after rain. We stayed at Camping by Laguna el Barco and paid 8 000 for the both of us. The water in the shower is ice cold, but there are few ladies selling fresh, warm bread. The public transport from the end of the section is the bus at 5.30 (Guallali) or bus point 5.45. We tried to hitchhike but with no luck. We camped in Guallali by the river (next to the church.

• 2023-Jan-25 to 2023-Jan-27 / 2.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / Johana & Matouš

We found this section surprisingly attractive - mainly the plateau was breathtaking. We spent the first night at a property of a Mapuche family (waypoint Camp - 7,1 km). Right before the ascent to Laguna Liay, there was a Mapuche family whose father approached us, he acted rather reserved from the start towards tourists (as he told us that they bring litter into the mountains) but we ended up drinking harina tostada with the family which also sold us some bread. We took the optional route which goes around the Laguna Liay and couldn't find the path so we somehow slid down the hill and went around the beach. Laguna Liay was really great to take a swim in and felt private (until a helicopter started hovering above our heads, taking water from the lake). There really seemed to be no water on the plateau - we took it from the Laguna and spent the night on the plateau - lots of space for camping there. The next day we arrived at Laguna El Barco, we didn't have to pay for the entry to the lake. The tienda there was open until 8 p.m. and had tuna, rice, pasta, biscuits, beverages, toilet paper, instant soups. There was a stand that made sopaipillas, churascos, french fries, salad, tortillas. Then there were some ladies going around the beach offering almost the same. We hitchhiked some of the last kilometres of the road to Guallalí. There's a shop as others indicated and a bus going only in the morning as written below. The chances of hitch hiking from there are rather scarce, as our Polish fellow travelers found out. There's a quite nice camping spot by the river further down the road (it's a few metres into the start of the section 11); it's not very private but people that were passing by didn't mind us camping there. Continued to section 11 thereafter.

• 2023-Jan-12 to 2023-Jan-15 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / detour past Laguna las Totoras / Will

Another quick section, with some super unique Araucaria forests. I decided to try and find the trail to Laguna las Totoras that Jo and Veronica mentioned. The route wasn't exactly traditionally scenic, but I had a good time. The lake was more of a shallow grassy pond surrounded by thick Araucaria forest. To me it was a nice change from all the classic alpine lakes. Flat grassy bank that seemed perfect for camping. The water itself was warm and a bit muddy. I didn't see anyone along the detour, other than a few bulls at the lake.

I turned off the main trail at -37.90827, -71.30880. I followed some horse tracks curving to the south along the edge of the woods. The tracks went through some sandy clearings before I eventually lost them in the woods. The woods were pretty easy travel, before too long I was out on a grassy plateau where I found tracks leading to the mirador marked on openstreetmap. Went up the road through some inspiring woods to the lake. I then walked south along the not very scenic road back to the main route.

Could be a nice option to take if you're in the mood for a change from the open alpine trail.

Other than that I missed the turnoff to the Laguna liay and decided to try bushwhacking straight through. Had a good time going off trail due west to the bottom right corner of the lake, open woods with a few pretty easy scrambles up/down rocky cliffs. Had a worse time trying to head southeast back to the main trail, encountering some thicker woods.

The bus to Ralco comes at 2pm on Sunday, so I spent two nights at Laguna El Barco with a quick walk Sunday morning to catch the bus. For 15000 I rented a kayak to circle the lake in a bit under two hours, super nice. The campsite was crowded for the weekend. There were some nice ladies selling simple food. The trail to the right of the campsite along the lake is beautiful.

Had a hard time finding accommodation in Ralco, the first five places I tried were full. Eventually found a spot at Cabañas Nehuen Antu for 30k.

• 2023-Jan-11 to 2023-Jan-13 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Martin & Helena

We continued from Trapa Trapa in the late afternoon to the camp at km 7. Trail is easy to navigate from the beginning. We set the camp actually a few meters before the puesto, in the forrest on the right side that seemed to be more quiet and hidden place. There is a nice spot with water around km 8, before entering the valley. We have seen just a few people around the puestos. Ascent to the pass is not bad, we enjoyed again very different landscape all around. Continuing to laguna, we decided to camp below arucaria trees a little before the official camp (cca 2 km) since we would get there pretty late. Based on comments from other hikers we went through the camp the next morning to check if there is opportunity to buy some food and eventhough the shop was closed, there were two ladies selling tortillas and sopapillas, churrasco and a few other things. The trail after laguna is mostly a dirt road passing around puestos. There was a community festival in Guallalí (1st edition) which was really nice to see, we tried grilled goat and bought some local products, great experience. One of the guys from the festival took us to Ralco in the evening and arranged a cabaña for us (35k CLP). There are 2-3 bigger shops with basically everything, gas is in the one next to the biggest market on the plaza. On the other hand, minishop in Guallalí is very limited, but they have some drinks, ice cream, cookies etc. There is also one small shop on the way to Guallalí, close to Bus 10-E mark.

Contact: @martin_hanzelka @helenneka

• 2023-Jan-09 to 2023-Jan-10 / 1.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / Trapa Trapa - Laguna El Barco / Anna & Christopher

We started from Trapa Trapa around 11 am after finishing section 9. The first part nearly until Laguna Liay is an easy walk on dirt roads/nice paths with several water sources. We met some pehuenche people who greated us friendly, only one man mumbled if we had a 'permiso' to pass there (we couldn't understand him very well). But then his friends told him to let us pass, he went away and we continued walking. On the last km to Laguna Liay there is a lot of bush bashing. But it's definitely worth it, a very nice camping spot up there. The next day we took option C around the lake, which was a mistake because at some point we couldn't find a path and ended up on a sketchy climb to the top of the plateau. The rest of the way to Laguna el Barco is easy with good paths.There is no water between Laguna Liay and Laguna el Barco. At the Laguna they charge 5000 CLP p.p. for the picnic/beach and 8000 CLP p.p. for camping. From there we hitchhiked to Ralco to resupply.

• 2022-Dec-20 to 2022-Dec-23 / 4 days (GPT9 + GPT10) / Hiking / SOBO / Option C / Véronica

Route: Trapa Trapa - Laguna Liay - Laguna El Barco - Guallalí

Two days from Trapa Trapa to Guallalí. Easy trail up the valley towards Laguna Liay. Didn't see anyone, most of the puestos appeared unoccupied. Lovely araucaria grove at the base of the big climb to Laguna Liay. The trail during the climb was overgrown/hard to distinguish in some places, and had a few areas of blowdowns too, which made the going slow during that bit.

I took Option C around Laguna Liay, which I found to be a frustrating maze of cow paths. One minute it's nice and clear and then it disappears, leaving me to bushwhack my way along until I stumble upon it again. The lake is beautiful though, and it's the last water before Laguna El Barco, so I filled up a couple litres. Met my first other GPT hikers in 3 weeks there too, they were going NOBO. Really beautiful up on the plateau of araucarias. There was no one at Laguna El Barco when I got there around lunchtime, no one selling food either. Spent over an hour there enjoying the shady picnic tables and the beach.

Easy trails/4×4 tracks the rest of the way to Guallalí. The two NOBO GPT hikers I met yesterday got charged 10,000 pesos by some local Mapuche folks to pass through this area, but I (again) didn't meet anyone. The shop in Guallalí is very limited. When I saw the selection, I decided to take the bus the next morning to Ralco, it leaves at 5:30 am. The shop owner was also not offering accommodation, but pointed me to the lovely araucaria grove across the street to camp. There is Entel cell service here :)

Season 2021/22

• 2022-Feb-27 / 3 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR / Romain

- Lake, Camp $ {10} [32.9/1292] : the place is nice, as mentioned there are lot of bins, the camping is also very nice and the showers still very cold. They charged me $5.000 for the night. It was written "with no (something I didn't manage to read)" on the bill so if they charge you $8.000 you can try to specify you don't have car, or I don't know... They removed the panel for the grocery just after I asked for it so it's now fixed, there is no grocery. The family selling cooked food wasn't selling food when I visited them around 11:00, maybe because it was monday morning, maybe because it was the end of summer, I don't know

- Close to GPT10-C Start there is a point of view on the whole valley, it's beautiful and you can see all the puestos

- Just after it there are many paths to go down, I haven't taken the one from the GPS but it's very easy to reach it then

- Around Puesto {10} [14.5/1297] an arriero told me there are 2 paths going down the valley, one on each side of the river, I've followed the GPT to try to reach Trapa Trapa before the night so I didn't go further about them but if someone try

- Around fords there are often a "bridge" made of one massive plank, the same arriero told me about some so they probably check each year they are usable. You just have to look for it, but it can not be the case at some points

- The number of puestos in this Valley is impressive, I only had good contacts with the people I met

• 2022-Feb-11 to 2022-Feb-12 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + optional section 10-E straight from Laguna El Barco to Guallalí / Veronika & Jo

In one day from Trapa Trapa to Laguna Liay, camping at the north side. There are many cow trails leading down to the laguna. The one we took seemed suitable for hikers too. Going back up the next day we got lost in the cow maze though, and only by searching for our own footprints from the previous day did we get back on the RR. It may be worth having a look at our GPS tracking data to figure out our initial path.

The next day continued to Guallalí. Beatiful plateau! Got to harvest our first piñones as well! However, we hurt the araucaria tree by breaking off a small but not insignificant branch when trying to get the green "pinecone" to break off, using the "strong rope" method described in the hiker's manual. Only later we learned you should go for the brownish, "café"-colored cones. Just hit these with your walking stick and the piñones will fall right off. You then collect them from the ground. The threatened araucaria will be much happier not being hurt :)

When in need of water at the plateau, there should be a path to Laguna Totora from S 37° 54.510', W 071° 18.580', according to an arriero who passed by. Maybe a future optional route?

The optional routes 10-E and 10-G have become MR instead of TL.

The lodging at the shop in Guallalí was not avaible, but the shop owner pointed us to an araucaria grove closeby (you can enter via a wooden gate next to the escuela). We camped there: S 38° 02.647', W 071° 16.441'. There were some villagers passing by, so it seems to be public land. There's a small stream to the east with quite clear water. Maybe it's possible to camp more upstream to the north, where there are bridges and where the stream has passed fewer houses.

Continued to GPT11 immediately after.

• 2022-Jan-19 /3 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR / Molly and Melissa

Between Guallalí and Laguna el Barco is mainly gravel road, but sometimes there are small, discrete paths that connect them, so keep an eye on the GPS. The camping at Laguna el barco is now 8000 per person. There are toilets, very cold showers and many garbage bins. There is also a family selling tortillas (bread baked in the ash) and sopaipillas, as well as some other people who come down in the evening and morning selling tortillas. There's a shop advertising ice cream, bread, sodas and other stuff, but it's closed. The people at the camping told us that it would open at 13, and then at 20, and then next day. A lady who had stayed there for a week said it had been like that the whole week, so I wouldn't count on it being open. As noted, you can ask the campground people to charge your phone. All in all, it was a nice campsite. Shortly after, the big climb starts. You have to pass through a fence and by some houses - again keep an eye on the GPS. We were charged 1000 per person, probably wouldn't happen for people going southbound. As warned, there was no water on the plateau until Laguna Liay. At the camp-waypoint, there is a very small lake, it doesn't look like the best drinking water, and the path directly to the lake seems very overgrown. Instead, we continued around the lake and found a decent campsite on the far side. The path around the lake is faint at best, and we ended up doing some serious scrambling down a cliff, however when we got down we found a path coming more from the right, so maybe there's a better way. The walk around is pretty, though. After the descent, the rest is easy walking past many puestos. In Trapa Trapa, we stayed at the house marked "lodging, food". They charge 20,000 per person for a room, dinner and breakfast. Very nice family, they might be away in their puesto sometimes though. There's also the option to take a bath in their inflatable swimming pool with shampoo, and they sell some honey. We were served cazuela and loads of sopaipillas for dinner. They were building a cabaña when we were there. Right next to them in a little red house behind a black gate there is a minishop, which according to them is the biggest in Trapa Trapa. They had pasta, rice, tuna, sodas, chocolate covered nuts, matches, toilet paper. They were open Saturday when we were there. Apart from that there are two other minishops, one in each direction, which we didn't check out.

The bus apparently leaves for Ralco at 6 and 18 every day including weekends.

• 2021-Dec-03 / 2 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR + option D / Marc Anthony

After finishing GPT9 I went directly on to GPT10 and made camp at the camping ground by el barco lake (5000 pesos) you can ask them to charge your electronics by the house where you pay. They didn’t sell any food. Like already mentioned by others, remember to bring a lot of water for the following section. The plateau you climb up on after El Barco lake was very dry. Next water source with good clean water was at Laguna Liay. I was getting desperate for water, so I took variant D directly down to the laguna. The trail was very overgrown and requires some bush bashing. Frustrating amounts of mosquitos and horseflies in this part of the section, might be worth bringing some mosquito spray!

Next section towards trapa trapa was nice and easy with perfect weather and plenty of water. Found two mini-shops in Trapa Trapa with only limited supplies. A bus to Ralco, leaves weekdays 6:00 in the morning. Therefore I spent the night in a room that a local Mapuche family were renting out. Was served a very big plate of grilled sheep meat and really enjoyed talking with the family. Later in the evening the father returned home very drunk. He was nice and talkative but I was getting at bit of a bad vibe from him, so thanked them for the food and went off to bed. Later at night I was awaken by someone vigorously trying to open the door which I thankfully locked. Rest of the family woke up and I heard a mans voice shouting something about “extranjero” and soon after the abuela kicked this guy out of the house.

Instantly thought I was gonna get robbed, but might just have been a drunk family member or the father who had forgot I was sleeping in their room. Hard to say… Apart from this I really enjoyed interacting with the locals in this region and I’ve had a lot of nice and memorable experiences.

Season 2019/20

• 2020-Feb-02 / Incident on GPT10 at Puesto-55 Location S 37* 49‘ 31.79‘‘ / W 71* 16‘ 23.38‘‘ / Published on behalf of Trevor Mattson

"Sad to report that i had a very negative experience about 15km into section 10 on sunday (2/2). I was offered food and a place to camp by a very nice pehuenche lady (miriam, goes by "mila", the puesto after puesto 55 marked as "puesto, food" at the beginning of the OH route right after it splits from RR) only to have her husband come home later an try to rob me. She was extremely friendly. Although he was noticeably intoxicated, he was also nice at first as we joked, drank maté an collected firewood together. After a couple hours, as the sun was almost completely gone (~10pm), he went inside his puesto, grabbed a knife, an approached me from behind as i sat around the fire with his wife. He marched me to my tent with the knife pressed againt my neck. I allowed him to search it (he kept saying "plata, plata, plata" an his Spanish wasn't very good) which gave me the opportunity to pick up a rock an intimidate him a bit. I had a lot of money an wasn't just gonna let him take it and all of my stuff up in the mountains at night. His wife then came an tried to get between us / protect me (she was pleading him to stop). He was shoving her around, but this gave me just enough time to rip my tent out of the ground, which had all my stuff in it, an quickly drag it to the nearest puesto (~100metres). He followed me on horseback after a minute or two an the family there armed themselves with sticks an told him to f**k off.

I hiked for a few hours through the night an met an incredible family at around 1700metres on the optional route (papa named exequel). They told me that he (bernardino from "puesto, food") has robbed a "chino" (means anyone that looks even remotely asian in my latin American experiences) in the past an that "se vuelve loco" when he drinks vine. I bought more cheese from bernardino an his wife than i wanted/needed as a nice gesture an we seemed to get along, so this was reassuring that he was just crazy an it was nothing that i did to provoke him. In other words, i behave according to the manual provided by Jan an it is not at fault. All in all, the pehuenches an mapuches i've met are all amazing except this guy. I definitely had to inform you all but don't want you to think that they are some uncivilized savages by any means. Bernardino kept telling his wife that i was "solo" as his justification for robbing me as they argued. Therefore i don't recommend passing through there alone, especially not later in the evening. I think if you stick to the regular you will narrowly avoid the puesto entirely. Or definitely worth the extra few KMs to continue to exequel's puesto further up the OH route. Also, i had a few extra pesos in a separate pocket that i was able to pretend like was all the money i had which was clutch. An from now on, I'm not staking anything into the ground until i know the father of the family well. Anyway, happy trekking, stay safe, an if anyone knows a good place to try an fix tent poles in concepción by chance then that would be awesome!"

• 2020-Jan-23 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Frank

Came in from Trapa Trapa in evening & camped @ Camp 81. There is a Mapuche family living there, talked to them & they were OK with me camping nearby. I was caught out by the sudden transition from river valley to dry plateau, had very little water & was as dry as dirt when I got to stream 1KM before Laguna Barco, drank 3 litres there. 3000CLP camping for 1 person @ Laguna. There is a Mapuche family with a food stall there, they have chips, sopaipillas & tortilla. The tortilla is like a small bread loaf. Next morning as I was leaving around 8:30 the Mapuche woman came round the campsite with fresh sopaipillas & tortilla. Walked in to Guallali from Laguna Barco in about 3 hours. Shop in Guallali is small but Romina who runs the shop provides beds & meals. 20,000 CLP for evening meal (usually goat & rice), bed & breakfast. Walked out 9KM to Comunidad Chanqueco, there is a good shop there. From Chanqueco it's easier to hitch, traffic coming from Laguna Barco but very little from Guallali. Hitched into Ralco, stayed @ Hosteria Montana there, about 15000CLP single. 2 supermarkets in Ralco, they sometimes have camping gas.

• 2020-Jan-12 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / Ian Hikes

Overview: This section was well marked/distinguished relative to all the other sections on thus far. There were many Puestos along the way as well. This was also the first section where the araucaria tree is very prevalent across the landscape. This section was my final section on the GPT and the araucaria trees and the lush green landscape provided good contrast to the semi-desert climate south of Santiago de Chile.

Difficulties: There was a small 12km ish section without water close to the pass.

Highlights: Change in landscape. Great views of the many volcanoes in the area.

Please feel free to reach out to me with any questions at ultratrailca@gmail.com

• 2020-Jan-22 / 4 days (GPT9 + GPT10) / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Martin

Combined sections 9 & 10. 4 days. Sierra Velluda and Antuco Volcanoe were amazing. In Trapa Trapa the two small shops were out of stock, so we couldn't buy anything. Pehuenche settlers in "veranadas" were really welcoming and friendly to us. We asked anyway for permission to camp close to their settlements. We were invited by familia Crespo Manquepi for tortillas, tea and some other food and stayed there for a few hours. They are welcome to recieve gpt hikers and in the future sell some food and lodging. Really kind family. Just before the last big climb in section 10. No water for a long stretch after it. Recomend the detour to Laguna Liay, amazing. Resupplied in Ralco.

• 2020-Jan-15 / 1.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Maddie & Tom

The trail was in good condition and we didn’t experience any issues. Possible to resupply at Guallalí but the selection isn’t huge (pasta, dry soups, crackers, tuna etc). If you are looking to bus into Lonquimay, it was leaving at 5:30AM the next morning for us (but we didn’t take it).

• 2020-Jan-10 / 1.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Martina & Ivo

Easy trail and navigation. We got in this really bad weather too. Storm and ice at the pass. In Guallali we had coffee and sopapillas at the carabinieros and spent the night at the same place as Matus, Anna and Linda. We took the bus at 05:30 towards Los Angeles and are staying in Ralco for resupply and drying.

• 2019-Dec-25 to 2019-Dec-26 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Linda

- Nice hike with no major difficulties. The plateau with the araucarias after the pass is amazing!!!

- No river when you leave the valley toward the pass and then down to the other valley BUT, as I wanted to sleep on this plateau (25 km after the start of the section) I found a small river 300 meters on the right from the regular track and camped at this place : S37,895511° O71,308919° Wonderful sunset!!!

- In Guallali, end of the section, lodging, food and mini shop. Lodging at the way point Minishop very nice = guesthouse with diner and breakfast for 20000 CLP. Very nice family!!!!

• 2019-Dec-17 / 3.5 days (11 walking hours) / Hiking / NOBO / RR with hitch hiking between Guallali and Laguna el Barco / Sophie & Hendrik

In total we were 3.5 days on the trail, of which we spend 1 in the tent due to bad weather. The 0.5 day we had left from arriving in Guallali we spend buying food and hitch hiking to the campground at Laguna el Barco. We did so because we expected rain soon and wanted to camp it out. Also we were not too keen for the gravel road part.

We liked: Nice araucaria trees, an amazing sunset we saw a tad south of Laguna Llai and after section 11 and 12 the easy terrain.

We did not like so much: The horsflies.

• 2020-Jan-04 / 3.5 days (GPT9 + GPT10) / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Matus & Anna

GPT09 and GPT10 Season section log. We combined these two sections. It took us 3.5 days via regular trail SOBO. Trail in both section is in good condition. There is snowfield in first pass as was mentioned. We went left, but it would be worth to check is it's possible to go through rocks on the right as it seems much shorter. Water is not marked on a map but there is a stream before the pass. Resuply in Trapa Trapa is very limited. They had few tunas, other caned fish, some pasta, flour, cola, crisps... We didn't check for accomodation. We stayed in a paid campsite at Laguna el Barco for 5000 both. Around 8 there was a woman selling bread and sweet pastry, but mind that it was weekend. Resuply in Guallali again very limited. They have tunas, caned fish, pasta, oil, crackers and bit more. We are staying in a house next to the shop.

Resupply and Accommodation

Resupply and Accommodation in nearby Towns

• Trapa Trapa

- Accommodation: The house marked "lodging, food" charge 20,000 per person for a room, dinner and breakfast. There's also the option to take a bath in their inflatable swimming pool with shampoo, and they sell some honey. We were served cazuela and loads of sopaipillas for dinner.

- Shopping: Right next to them in a little red house behind a black gate there is a minishop, which according to them is the biggest in Trapa Trapa. They had pasta, rice, tuna, sodas, chocolate covered nuts, matches, toilet paper. They were open Saturday when we were there. There is a panel just before the street going to the grocery indicating that the mini-market is 100m away. There are two other minishops.

- Bus: The bus apparently leaves for Ralco at 6 and 18 every day including weekends.

• Guallalí

Lodging at the way point Minishop very nice = guesthouse with dinner and breakfast for 20000 CLP.

Resupply and Accommodation along the Route

• Laguna El Barco :

Updated Mar 22

-The family selling cooked food close to Lake, Camp $ {10} [32.9/1292] wasn't selling food when I visited them around 11:00, maybe because it was monday morning, maybe because it was the end of summer, I don't know

Transport to and from Route

Bus Guallali - Ralco - Santa Barbara - Los Angeles 05:30

Updated January 2022: Bus from Trapa Trapa to Ralco at 6 and 18 every day including weekends

Links to other Resources

Retired Section Article GPT10 - Laguna El Barco

Images

GPT10 - Laguna El Barco

GPT10 - Laguna El Barco

Araucarias at GPT10 - Laguna El Barco

GPT10 - Laguna El Barco

GPT10 - Laguna El Barco

GPT10 - Laguna El Barco