Cambios

[[File:GPT04-P0039.jpg|thumb|450px|Greater Patagonian Trail Section 4: Near Laguna de Las Lajas where 45 soldiers died in

2005 during a snow storm. File: Jan Dudeck]]

====Trail Condition====

The Greater Patagonian trail is not an official trail that is set up and managed by a government agency. Is simply a compilation of horse trails, minor roads and some cross country sections over private properties and state owned land. This means that large parts of the route are not monitored or maintained by public authorities. Most of the horse trails were created by local herdsman to drive livestock to their pastures and other parts of the route are current or disused wood logging roads. Therefore the maintenance depends on the needs and initiative of these locals users.

Severe weather, volcanic eruptions and earthquakes can destroy or alter a route and if not maintained vegetation can completely close a trail within a few years in particular in the tempered rain forest. Therefore attention and good judgment are needed when hiking the Greater Patagonian Trail because some trail sections may become impassable or change. Check your GPS regularly but don’t follow blindly the GPS track.

==== River Crossings====

====Weather====

Storms with heavy rain may arise on all parts of the trail anytime and in elevated areas heavy snowfall may occur even in midsummer. Therefore be always prepared and equipped for sudden weather changes.

In bad or instable weather do not climb a pass or venture into exposed terrain above the tree line. Rather wait or return and seek shelter if the weather changes in a concerning manner. Carry at least a poncho to protect yourself and your backpack if rain or snow closes in. In instable weather keep your eyes open and memorize potential protected camp sites and puestos if you are forced to turn around to seek shelter. Selected suitable locations are documented with waypoints in the KMZ file for trekking.

====Wild Animals====

There are no bears in South America. This makes hiking more relaxed if compared with North America. You can cook at your tent and store all you food in your tent without fearing a visit of a hungry bear.

The largest living predator in Patagonia (apart from humans) is the '''Puma''', also called Cougar or Mountain Lion. They normally hide and avoid contact with humans. Wikipedia states: “Attacks on humans are very rare, as cougar prey recognition is a learned behaviour and they do not generally recognize humans as prey. (…) As with many predators, a cougar may attack if cornered, if a fleeing human stimulates their instinct to chase, or if a person "plays dead". Standing still however may cause the cougar to consider a person easy prey. Exaggerating the threat to the animal through intense eye contact, loud but calm shouting, and any other action to appear larger and more menacing, may make the animal retreat. Fighting back with sticks and rocks, or even bare hands, is often effective in persuading an attacking cougar to disengage.”.

Link: [https://her-odyssey.org her-odyssey.org]

Bethany and Lauren are on their way to traverse the length of the Americas by non-motorized means to connect stories of the land and its inhabitants. They started in December 2015 in Ushuaia on the southern tip of the continent and were the first to walk the entire length of the GPT. We got in touch before they commenced their endeavor and while they walked northbound I developed the trail southbound. This resulted in a very fertile exchange of ideas and routes. Bethany and Lauren “gound-truthed” and recorded several of the hiking sections of the GPT in central Patagonia based on my drafts. This was a very important support since I traveled with my wife primarily the packraft options in central Patagonia. The following year, around October 2016, they asked me for my advice how to continue their journey north which led me to develop the fife northern section of the GPT extending the trail all the way to Santiago. Independently from Gerald Klamer they investigated and recorded these fife sections in the Precordillera (GPT01 to GPT05).

Link: [http://geraldtrekkt.blogspot.it/2017/04/greater-patagonian-trail-1-santiago-coya.html geraldtrekkt on blogspot]

Gerald is a highly experienced hiker who walked in many remote areas around the world. He learned about this trail though a common friend (Christine Thürmer, the German author of the book “Laufen, Essen, Schlafen”). When we got in touch I told him about the newly drafted but unverified fife northern sections (GPT01 to GPT05). He loved the idea to be the first to investigate and record them and so he did! When he reached the already verified part of the GPT he did not continue on the “path of least resistance” by following the already well documented regular route but instead he kept investigating and recording the more remote and mountainous options that I drafted mainly based on satellite images and descriptions from local arrieros. He liked it so much that he now prepares the continuation of his hike on the GPT in the coming season.

The Hiker's Manual is a PDF file optimized for reading on a computer screen or smart phone. The page size ratio is 16 to 9 like the screen on most smart phones and many computer screens. The PDF file is best reviewed in "full screen slide mode" (one page filling the entire screen, no scrolling but flipping entire pages).

You can download the currently still incomplete version of the Hikers Manual here: [https://goo.gl/sWqGiv Hikers Manual on Dropbox]

They live in villages in the mountain valleys but also move up on higher grazing grounds during the summer very much like the “arrieros” do. But in contrast to the "arrieros" you will meet more women and entire families, sometimes three generations living together in small summer shelters. Some milk their cows and make cheese. In summer and autumn they harvest the "piñones" of the Araucaria tree what is the staple food of their traditional diet. Once you discover how to collect and prepare these seeds you will have an unlimited food supply along the trail provided that you scheduled the traverse of this zone to match the harvest season.

These Araucaria trees are one defining element of this landscape and a highlight of this zone. Areas where old growth trees have been preserved create and impressive scenery. If then a large band of squawking parrots crosses your path you may feel like in mystery forest.

The other so different face of this zone is the volcanic lunar landscape. Two extended volcanic areas rise out of the rainforest with the last major eruption occurring in 2011. The trail climbs up and out of the rainforest to traverse wide fields of grey ash and snake around massive streams of black lava boulders. You can summit the volcanos and stare into a wide open crater. The contrast between the engulfing forest and the hostile volcanic terrain is mind-blowing.

With this zone the packraft dreamland begins. You can cover about a third of the distance on water floating down calm river, crossing immense lakes and even paddling in the Patagonian fjords.

In this zone the climate cools considerably and rain become more frequent. But where the trail remains in the forest you are less exposed than in the zones further north. Only the two volcano crossings get you high up in open terrain where condition can turn hostile even in mid-summer if you are hit by bad weather.

You will see the effects of a wide variety of trail maintenance throughout this zone. In parts you have well maintained forest roads; then you walk on frequently used horse trails but in a few parts you need to fight your way through overgrown terrain.

====Zone E: Zona Ríos y Lagos Argentinos====

Chile and Argentina are like two brothers that share a lot but have some distinct differences in appearance and attitude. The relation between both countries is pretty much like between siblings; they can stand together and feel strong family ties but there is also some sibling rivalry, just like two little boys that quietly play together in the sandbox and a moment later they stream and fight over one toy that both grabbed at the same time. And this zone is your opportunity to get to know the other brother. You can explore the difference of the Argentine culture and way of life i.e. by visiting the hippie town of El Bolsón at the end of section GPT22 and the start of GPT23.

The hiking route of this zone borders numerous pristine lakes and rivers and crosses forest and patches of cattle grazing land. The route passes two national parks and several large private properties ("estancias"). You can enjoy many gorgeous views and some sections of this zone are generally easy walking. Here the GPT follows in large parts the Huella Andina, a personal initiated trail project by Estefania Chereguini and Walter Oszust. This project unfortunately came to a halt when the Argentine Ministry of Tourism assumed control and forced the founders out. This and recent wild fires mean that parts of the trail are no longer maintained and become overgrown.

A very challenging but fascinating highlight of this zone is the traverse from Lago Puelo to Lago Cholila that contains some demanding bush bashing and walking in rivers to avoid the dense vegetation. Here you can test what it takes to walk without a trail though partly engulfing forest. This experience may reconcile you with the larger proportion of road walking that is unavoidable if hiking and not packrafting.

With this zone the packraft dreamland continues. The distance on water exceeds 40%. In particular from Lago Cholila to Lago Kruger you have a long continuous sector of interconnecting lakes and rivers where you don’t need to leave the water for 3 or 4 days except to rest and to camp.

In this zone rain is rare but heat can be a burden since the trail snakes along of the eastern edge of the Andes in the rain shadow. Expect to climb over many fences and closed gates since the more leveled ground on the eastern edge of the Andes is used as grazing land for large herds of cattle. In the National Park “Los Alerces” you will meet large crowds on the camp sites but a short stroll from these hot-spots you will encounter much less people. On the southern terminus of this zone you return to Chile on a paved road where collecting your passport stamps is straightforward.

If hiking you traverse a thickly forested region that generally follows quiet back roads and historic horse trails. A major trail section is a national heritage trail (“Ruta Patrimonial”) that is beautiful hiking, with a wonderful perspective of history. The wide river valleys are lovely to note, as are the views when you can see through the trees. Sparsely populated, it gives an idea of the hardy and kind people who inhabit Patagonia.

If hiking be aware that parts of the route receive little to no maintenance and can be quite difficult to track. Some hikers turned back because they lost the trail. At the moment I have no precise GPS record for parts of the trail and only an approximate route is incorporated into the trail file. Your contribution is needed to fill this gap with an accurate record.

For packrafters this zone is an unmatched highlight of the GPT. Just two kilometers after leaving the village Palena you reach the put in at the generally calm river Palena that you can now float down in 4 to 6 days until you reach the Fjord Pitipalena and the tiny harbor village Raul Marin Balmaceda. Don’t try to be fast to enjoy the scenery and to meet some of the families that live for three or four generations on the shore of this powerful but unhurried river.

From Raul Marin Balmaceda you best take the ferry to Puerto Chacabuco, which with favorable weather is a very scenic 24 h boat ride through the Patagonian fjord world. The ferry stops in various tiny settlements in the fjords, where you might leave the boat to do some optional exploration excursions. From Puerto Chacabuco the most practical option is to continue after GPT28P with GPT31P, skipping the expedition sections GPT29P and GPT30P that should only be considered by highly experienced packrafters that are quite familiar with Patagonia.

The few rapids can normally be scouted and portaged if needed but your constant attention is needed to evade the countless sunken trees that lurk under the water. Towards the end the river valley widens exposing you to sometimes heavy head wind and when you reach the intertidal zone the flow direction may inverse twice per day for several hours. So understand the tidal cycles and get tidal charts to plan at what times you can paddle down. When choosing your last camp site make sure that you do not pitch your tent in the intertidal zone otherwise you may suddenly wake up in the middle of the river.

The hiking route largely follows an array of roads, from impassible by vehicle to main thoroughfares and is easy walking. A few notable peaks can be viewed along the way and water is ample. The few villages are safe, simple, and kind. Coming in the Valle Chacabuco around Coyhaique gives a striking view of the effects of the early fire clearing in this region to create grazing land as you move between old growth forests and clear cuts. Coyhaique is the largest city directly on GPT and has several outdoor shops, which, while overpriced, can help in a pinch. This is also the center for “Patagonia Sin Represas” so if you have a chance, stop by!

Since the hiking route consists completely of minor and primary roads I don’t recommend walking this zone except if you advocate connecting food steps or if you are a die-heard thru-hiker that attempts hiking the entire trail without packrafting in two or three seasons.

The packrafting route is much more scenic than the hiking option and with about half the distance on water carrying a boat really pays off. The route connects half a dozen lakes and river sections and requires some walking on minor roads because the historic horse trails have been upgraded in the last one or two decades. When talking to the few settlers on the shore of the lakes and along the roads you can gain a very personal insight how this harsh land got settled during the 20th century.

Note that wind on these lakes can be powerful and rain is frequent and cold. If going southbound then wind is normally favorable. But be prepared to sit out periods of unsafe strong wind even if blasting in your direction.

Challenges in this region are remoteness, volatile weather and partly poor trail conditions. The walking distance from Chile Chico to Villa O’Higgins is about 350 km and you have just the village Chochrane to resupply in the middle. The partially difficult route finding on the “Ruta de los Pioneros” probably reconciles you with the easy but tiresome road walking on either end of this historic trail.

When packrafting you can opt between several more choices. You can i.e. cross Lago Cochrane and bypass the village Cochrane to venture into the particular remote area of Lago Brown and float down the swift river Río Tranquilo that is not as tranquil as name suggests. You can paddle several lakes and rivers that parallel the “Ruta de los Pioneros”. The most challenging packrafting option is floating down the Río Baker. This powerful high volume river requires a couple of portages and wind can fiercely against you in particular when getting close to the harbor village Villa Tortel where this rivers flows into Patagonian fjords.

This zone is sure to be a favorite among hikers and packrafters that seek to be challenged by difficult terrain.

The giant Southern Patagonian Ice Field extends 350 km in North-South direction and is in average 35 km wide. It’s northern terminus is located as the latitude of Villa O’Higgins. Immense glaciers flow down from this ice field in all directions and some glaciers constantly refill the Lago O’Higgins with immense blocks of ice and turquoise glacier melt. For navigation this lake is often considered the most challenging lake in South America due to the heavy and very variable wind in the different arms of the lake.

To continue southbound you need to take the ferry that crosses this wind battered lake and unloads you next to the tiny settlement Candelario Mansilla, where a Chilean police outpost provides you with the required passport exit stamp. From here you can walk either directly into Argentina or follow the much more scenic route along the shore of the lake. Some optional trails get you face to face with various glaciers that flow down from the ice field. At the northern end of Lago del Desierto the Argentine police outpost will verify that you got your Chilean exit stamp and if so, give you an entry stamp for Argentina. Rules and regulations are unclear how long you may wander in the no man’s land in between both police posts.

The trail along Lago del Desierto is a beautiful walk and provides inspiring first peeks at one of the most famous highlights of this region, Cerro Fitz Roy at the eastern edge of the ice field. Multiple optional trails get you to various lookouts and glaciers and you should walk at least some of these options. In particular Cerro Torre seen from the Laguna Torre is one of the most pictured views. The GPT currently terminates with the “Huelta Huemul” a 60 km circuit that gets you to the edge of the Southern Patagonian Ice Field and with perfect views over the glacier Viedma that flows into Lago Viedma.

During peak tourist season the area next to Cerro Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre and the town of El Chalten are extremely crowded, which can be a difficult shift from the solitude of Patagonia that you experience on most parts of the GPT. Climate can be challenging and in particular the “Huelta Huemul” should only be attempted if the weather and wind forecast is suitable for this very exposed terrain.