Summary The fourth section of the Greater Patagonian Trail sets out on the base of volcano Antuco; a nearly perfect cone build with pitch black volcanic rocks and boulders. You can optionally climb this summit before continuing on the regular route. It’s a demanding long ascent over rather loose piles of sharp volcanic rocks that make the returning descent even more tiresome. But if the weather favours you, you get rewarded with an outlook that reaches north to be issuedthe volcano Chillan and south to the volcano Copahue; a total distance that takes about 10 days to hike. The regular trail takes the road to Argentine through vast fields of black volcanic ash in between the Laguna de Las Lajas and the volcano Antuco. On May 18, 2005 this road became the tragic scene of the worst peacetime military disaster in recent Chilean history. An overeager commander ordered about 400 poorly equipped conscripts to march this road despite a starting snow storm. 45 soldiers got disoriented and paralyze by the white out and froze to death on the side of the road. Take it as an advise to always carry protective cloth and rather seek shelter if the weather turns against you. After passing the ill-fated military post and the border control you need to leave the road before crossing into Argentina and turn south to enter the territory of the Pehuenche people. A wide open valley leads you towards the first Araucaria trees that also mark the initial of the tribal land. Indigenous herdsman have set up their “Puestos” to look after their animals on the summer pastries. Centuries of disrespect, deceit and displacement by colonists have made this people withdrawn and sceptical compared to the settlers and “Puesteros” that you meet before. But if you approach them with respect and in a humble attitude you may get invited into their huts and chat with them. After crossing a saddle and descending into the Valley Queuco you finally reach the Pehuenche settlement Trapa Trapa. If you are lucky and you ask around you may stay for a night with one of the families and listen to them speaking Mapuche.
