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GPT23 (PN Lago Puelo)

14 036 bytes añadidos, 10 febrero
Season 2024/25
==Season 2024/25==
 
* <span style="background-color:aqua;">'''2025-01-29 to 2025-02-02 / 5 days / Packrafting / SOBO/ RP, Option 02 and a new loop extension of it, info on option 04 / Tomáš&Natalie'''</span>
 
Day 1: Lago Puelo to turnoff for the climb, 30 km
 
We woke up at 3:30, ate, packed, walked the 1.5 km to the lake and started paddling at dawn at 6:30. Waves got calmer between 5:30 and 6:30. There was almost no wind and only small waves (20 cm). Accessible fresh water here -42.14575, -71.64945. Once on [3.8+10.2], we got a bit of a headwind (we were later told that it is the prevailing wind direction), yet we still got to the other shore at 10:30. Overall it was a calm morning. The port there is really a port (a pier) and busy! A settler family came with slaughtered piglets and goats and set off. A park ranger came in a boat, asked us where we were going, whether we had maps and told us not to make fires. The rangers have a house there and a permanent presence, you are likely to meet them. No registration needed. There were also several tents, it is an official free campsite. Toilet building was again closed and non-functional, this drives me crazy, have they never heard of composting toilets here?
 
We met two young female Canadian climbers who just finished a first ascend up a new route of this mountain: -42.39791, -72.05425. The hardest pitch of eleven in total was 5.11, which sounds impressive. It took them three weeks, they went up the valley (Option 04 until km 25, a horsetrail) on horses rented from a settler and came down with their own packrafts. The 16.7 km of BB track on Option 04 is also in reality a hiking path with a refugio at the end, recently cut by the settler. Natalie was very envious as she had been wanting to go up the valley for quite some time and to try to make a loop towards Rio Tigre. When she heard the option was actually a trail to the lake, it was hard for her not to go, but we had little food. The Canadians said Río Turbio was mostly class I, with possibly a bit of class II at the beginning – in any case, they packrafted it with some sort of makeshift paddles and did not have problems, so it cannot be very hard. Thinking back, it probably rivals Ventisquero in attraction and especially for packrafters, it would be worthwhile to buy food for the extra days, stash it (maybe with the parkrangers?), go up the valley and packraft it down before continuing with RR.
 
As for the RR after Lago Puelo, in the beginning you can partially escape the sun by taking a left here: -42.22996, -71.67063 to join the OSM trail that is mostly in a forest until the bridge over Rio Dorrumbe. There is a signed trail to a viewpoint, which is the beginning of option 07, but I would expect a clear trail to end where the OSM trail ends. The same applies to the beginning of option 06. The RR trail is well used and clear, with water at river Derrumbe and then 9 km later here: -42.27798, -71.73095 and then ~3 km later at the creek here: -42.29733, -71.75366, where we camped. Settlers are building a new house overlooking a makeshift log bridge over the creek there and one or two settlers live just at the back. We asked if we could camp there and were granted permission, just told not to make fires.
 
Day 2: Turnoff for the climb to Cerro Plataforma, 14 km
 
The OSM camp -42.30518, -71.76873 seemed official and would have been a better camp. It is next to an ingenious bridge I loved. Right after there is a settler house that looks deserted. Until altitude ~1000m there is little shade due to the past forest fires, so an early start in hot conditions is recommended! The OSM camp at 750m is just a flat space, no water, I will delete that from OSM. The camp at 1100m at -42.34002, -71.78579 is by a creek (first water since last camp) and quite nice. We met two groups of hikers going to the Plataforma. At the turnoff to Option 02, there is a useless skeleton of an unfinished refugio and also a good camping spot with running water. Option 02 (Plataforma) is definitely a must (it easily bumps attraction one level up) unless it is a cloudy day! Keep to the GPS, it is correct. There is a trail but it can be confusing due to other animal trails and cairns. There is only one opening in the cliff for the plateau. Lots of water from the Refugio to the Plataforma and on the Plataforma as well (snow melt and lake). Camping in the rolling landscape before the Plataforma would have been nice too and less exposed. On the Plataforma it was very windy, we found a somewhat sheltered spot by a waterfall here: -42.34002, -71.78579. Edible bushes on the plateau.
 
Day 3, Cerro Plataforma to ford, 15 km
 
Despite winds predicted to reach 25 km/h with 50 km/h gusts, the night was ok. We traversed to the pass between Cerro Plataforma and the next mountain here: -42.37185, -71.82974, easy CC. The plateau is gorgeous, great views and indeed there are fossils! We thought about climbing Cerro Plataforma, but it is cliffy. Maybe there is a way for somebody with crampons and ice axe from there through a couloir, but we could not see a scramble up. Supposedly a person on Wikiloc did it. Not liking to walk back the same way, I went to see if one can go directly to the other valley and it is indeed possible. There are three openings in the first cliff, here: -42.36375, -71.80118, I used -42.36261, -71.80096 and from below I saw an opening ~200m to the north at the top of the cliff, which might be the best. Second cliff has an opening here: -42.36237, -71.79756 and also probably one 200 m to the north. CC until here: -42.36569, -71.79446, where BB&CC starts. I followed a ridge down to roughly here: -42.36932, -71.79103. I used my machete to make way, which slowed me down, but it was not necessary, the beach-like shrubs could be walked through with some CC in between until the tree canopy raised allowing normal walk. As far as bushwashing goes, this was quite easy (and with pretty views), it can probably be done in 30 minutes. I waited for Natalie on a super-wet meadow. She turned up with Thijmen, a fellow packrafter whom she met at Cerro Plataforma. We followed the trail to the ford where the MR starts, where we camped. It is a trail almost all the way, now hopefully much clearer thanks to our and previous hikers' machetes. The trail after the meadow goes through a forest until -42.39012, -71.80358, where it enters a post-fire meadow. It sort of disappears very shortly around here: -42.39626, -71.80864, otherwise it is usually possible to find, no real bushbashing needed. The last few kilometres of the trail are more used and quite clear - no need for Roman's quad road.
 
Day 4: Ford to near end, 34 km
 
Instead of CC, take a trail/road to river Tigre here: -42.45251, -71.77349, as a settler advised us. The river is gorgeous and easy, class I. No scouting needed, only just before the lake, there is now a log obstructing way that you might want to walk around. Despite crossing after noon, we only got tailwind and quite manageable waves halfway through Lago Cholila. Rio Carrilleufu is easy again: class I, virtually no rapids, slower towards the end, slept in willows here: -42.52354, -71.53566.
 
Day 5: end, 6 km
 
Ferry {23} [85.9/530] exists and works. It is some metal fixed road contraption meant for cars. Not sure how it works. Its ropes obstruct the way but can be avoided on the right. Beware when it moves! Camp $ {23} [90.0/536] wants 7000 ARG for a day stay. You do not need to go through it to leave the river there, there is a public road. At eleven, we got strong wind with rain that made even going down the river almost impossible, so we stopped paddling (gusts of 65 km/h were predicted, local said 90 km/h). OSM knows two restaurants in Villa Lago Rivadavia: Ruta Kitai is posher, more expensive (main courses 20mil+) and kicks dirty packrafters out after two hours. Pilarica Lodge was cheaper, a bit less fancy, set menu for 20 thousand. No Claro internet, good free wifi here: -42.56219, -71.59596. The two supermarkets in town were sufficient for Thijmen and Nat, but for as picky a person as I am, it was better to hitch to Cholila, plus it is mostly cash-only in Ridadavia. Cholila had gas cartridges in the petrol station, a proper bakery and fruit shop and a bigger supermarket. There was a national grilling day (fiesta de asado?), which takes place on the weekend at the beginning of February - something to consider if you are into such things, Cholila was super crowded. Thirty carcasses being grilled at the same time is not to everyone's taste, though. Hitching back was harder, 90 minutes, 60 km and 50 cars.
 
 
* <span style="background-color:aqua;">'''2025-01-29 to 2025-02-01 / 4 days / Packrafting / SOBO / RP+plataforma / Thijmen Scholten'''</span>
 
Bought a macheti in El Bolson . Protected it with piece of cut open rubbertube. It had an edge so I thought it was sharp. But it wasn't so eventually it was useless.
* Entered lago Puelo at 15.00 was lucky it was not a windy day.
* Camp places next to Lago puelo are good for camping but at the end of lago Puelo is bigger camp place.
* For the clime to la plataforma. At the last settlement (not on map) you have a river. Then 1 hour after that settlement is your last water source before the big climb untill 30min before the Laguna.
* Laguna or just before Laguna is good camping
* You can leave your backpack and climb toPlataforma it's beautifull. Loads of fossils to be found close to the lake.
* I met Thomas and Nathalie and we travel together.
* Going down after plataforma was a bit Bushbashing. It's doable without macheti but its nice if you help maintain the trail and bring a macheti. You will definitely loose the trail a couple of times but pay attention to the macheti cuts ! And you find it again.
* Getting the last bit to the river you have to walk trough a field full of the little spiky Plants. You can go in a little bit later and you will find a 4x4 track to follow almost towards the river. But the get in place at the river is not so nice there.
* At the end of the river Tigre there is one part that is full of wood whole river wide. Better to walk your boat past it. + 2end turn left has some wood in the current you can skip taking the inner side.
* After 15.00 the wind picked up in lago Cholila so it went quite fast.
* The river is ok to paddle no rapids. We took shelter from rain ad used wifi and ate at an restaurant in villa lago rivadevia.
* In Rivadevia there are 3 small shops and in at least 1 you can pay with card. They have the basics oatmeal, polenta, bread , dinners , and some fruits and vegetables.
* Don't eat at Ruta Kitai if you look like a hobo like me. It's a bit too fancy And they will not let you leave things charging or leave your backpack.
 
* <span style="background-color:aqua;">'''2025-01-28/ 4,5 hours / Packrafting/ SOBO/ New Option 10?/ Tomáš'''</span>
 
Needing civilization for a bit, we had a free day. I floated down Rio Azul for about 20–25 km. Overall, when you do go to El Bolsón and if you want an early start on Lago Puelo the next day and don’t mind the swimmers (never are they in your path) this is an alternative to bus to consider. The put-in is just below El Paraíso, which is a gorgeous gorge but totally overrun with people as far as I can judge. I walked there from El Bolsón using OSM routes, the one running through here -41.95247, -71.54758 is a bit narrow with some blackberry, but definitely existing, this one: -41.95253, -71.55133 is a MR and this one: -41.95381, -71.55450 is well kept and wide with Huella Andina signs. The OSM path along the river is a road until the place where I put in: -41.93277, -71.55990, where it turns into a path. It was late (after four) and I was afraid I would not make it to Lago Puelo by sunset, so I did not go all the way to El Paraíso. The river is commonly packrafted, rafted and kayaked and is said to be class II (just before I put in, I saw one I think class II rapid). For the first two kilometers, I actually followed three rafts and two kayaks. When they took out, the river started to be a bit shallow - prepare for some ground contact (though I only got out of packraft twice to walk something; situation will probably get worse further into the summer). After Río Quemquemtreu from El Bolsón joins, it starts to be mostly deep enough. The river is attractive, so there will be lots and lots of people bathing in it and some fishers. Views of Tres Picos are great and willows are becoming my favourite trees. Lower, some willows grow directly in the river: care is needed to avoid them or to go between them, one rapid I walked as it leads you into a nasty strainer. The rapids themselves are very easy though, after I put in, it was class I or exceptionally maybe class I+. Took me 4,5 hours without stopping to reach Lago Puelo.
 
Note that it is not legal to camp by the lake – one needs to get back two km to some camp in Lago Puelo town. We were in Rosa Morada camping which is 100 m on the left after you enter town coming from the lake: 10 thousand per person and great wifi.
 
* '''2025-01-27/ 9 hours / Hiking/ EBO/ New Option 11?/ Tomáš&Natalie'''</span>
 
(EL BOLSÓN SIDE TRIP: The day before, fearing we would not get any hiking after section 23, we went up Cerro Piltriquitrón: the OSM path through here -41.96320, -71.50721 from El Bolsón to the parking lot exists, but is a cow trail that is not always easy to follow and goes over private land – well, nothing extraordinary for GPT hikers. The climb itself is extremely easy (3–4 hours from parking lot to summit and back is possible without running) and super popular. Hitching up and down the main road should not be hard. Despite the people, the views were good and we got to watch a young condor land just 10 metres under us at the very top for ten minutes. Claro internet in El Bolsón and Lago Puelo was only very partially functioning, probably due to overcrowding. Exquisite sourdough bread is still here: -41.95885, -71.53572.)
* ''' 2025-JAN-24 > 26 / 3 jours / Randonnée / SOBO / RR(2025) / Pierre-Marie ​​'''
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