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GPT21 (Lago Todos Los Santos)

4596 bytes añadidos, 12 enero
Season 2024/25
==Season 2024/25==
 
25-01-08 - 25-01-11/ 3,5 days / NOBO-EABO / RR-OH2 (Tronador) Volker
 
Very pittoresque route (I took it inspired by Tomas & Natalie, who did it WEBO in january 2024)
Day 0: After climbing Volcan Osorno in the morning, I hitchhiked to Ensenada (resupply) and then to Cochamo but got out of the car 12km before Cochamo in Ralun at the start of the RR MR going to Cayetue („21, Bus, 71,5). Took a cabana directly opposite (30k). The indicated shop has basic food.
Day 1: A van driving locals to physiotherapy gave me a ride, so the MR walking to the pass was shortened by a half. At the pass yet another view on Volcan Puntiagudo, now from the south. Very easy down to Lago Cayutue (lots of tabanos there, also along rivers and on meadows, luckily the trail is mostly in the forest). Very easy along Rio Conchas (easy fords). 1km before the settler at 117.3 it looked like it will start to rain soon. So I raised my tent on a small meadow, indeed 10 min later and then during the evening some rain, but very few.
 
Day 2: Blue sky, easy walking, very few tabanos, even outside the forest, many settlers on horses. At Gpt 21-02end a small wooden sign, asking you to stay on the right (orographically: left) side of Rio Blanco (id est: not to take variant c). I did not go down to the ford, but on the following kms Rio Blanco seemed quite difficult to cross, the ford at 101.3, however, easy. So the sign makes sense. Shortly before the ford a non indicated settler, very lovely place. The settler at 98.5 offered me cherries from his tree and we talked a while. These friendly people provide for the special flair of this OH (on RR it’s just Rudy). From now on very scenic views on Volcan Tronador. Two bridges over Rio Aguas Turbias, which has deserved this name. Camp at the indicated spot at 88.3 (close to the destroyed bridge, fits one tent).
Day 3: Steep but easy up to the border. Several camp spots close to the puesto at 86.9 (which obviously serves as a refuge). At the border I told the very nice young carabinero that I want to go to Refugio Viejo (coming from the Chilean side technically you can go there without showing up at the carabineros, but I wanted to get some information about the way). Whereas Conaf rather doesn’t allow you to do this or that, because if something happens to you, they have to leave their chair, the carabinero explained me my options and told me: „If something happens to you, we will come and help you.“ I decided, that going to Argentina and trying to rent equipment for the Tronador (for Cumbre Argentino; cumbre internacional is the highest, but technical, so is cumbre Chileno) in Bariloche is way too complicated, so I asked the carabinero to keep my big backpack and went with a small one (you can also sleep in the refugio or camp there, but carrying your gear there will be quite physical). It took me three hours to the refugio. (I was alone there on a friday afternoon; the next day I met groups of all in all 12 hikers, who planned to go there and stay for the night). Breathtaking views on the glacier (especially if you continue after the refugio CC, trail on OSM) and the summits of V. Tronador. V. Osorno is showing up in the west and in the east you see the peaks of Cerro Catedral. I was back at the carabineros at 5.30 p.m. and decided to camp there: free, water, dry toilet - wrong decision: At 8.30 p.m. they turned on a generator in order to watch TV… After 5 minutes I decided to leave, luckily I found a dry spot some hundred meters away on the edge of the meadow, which is indicated as swamp
Day 4: Easy walk (12km) to Pampa Linda, which is a touristic hotspot. I decided to finish the hike here. The alpine route Tomáš took is very seducing, but it‘s probably better to do it at the beginning (going WEBO) and not after 3,5 days and 80km. Hitchhiked to Bariloche (2nd car, 2 hours; there is also a bus in the late afternoon).
 
Details on the border crossing; Returning from Refugio Viejo I got my passport back with an exit stamp and a paper in three copies (one for the AR gendarmeria, two for me to present when coming back to Chile.) As I had told the carabinero, that I will return to Chile soon, I had to define a maximum period in AR (you can come back earlier, but not later (strange rule). The argentinian border control is not, as indicated on the track files, at the border 1,5 km after the Chilean carabineros. It is in Pampa Linda (correctly indicated). The guy of the gendarmeria( very nice, too) offered me a glass of water and confirmed my entry without any control.
 
*'''25-01-05- 25-01-06/ 2 days / SOBO / RR varA / Clara & Volker'''
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