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From Pampa Linda, we followed the estabilished option, it was not very eventful and took us three days and a few hours. At the border, the carabinieros have a free basic camping there - expect only water and dry toilet, but you can leave your tent with things and go up to Refugio Viecho, which is functional and sleeps about 8 people plus there are several tent places near it. We met a Spanish couple with a guide who would climb Trenador the next day. People go to the border from Argentina for day trips or two-day in-and-out trips, we met several groups and there were four tents for the night. From the border, we would meet one group per day and one settler per day. The route is travelled but not busy (carabinieros do not have horses and probably rotate by helicopter, we saw one the next day).
The hot springs (41.2479669S, 72.0470375W) are very clean and have perfect temperature, there are two pools for about even ten people altogether. On the other side of the bridge, there is a new house probably meant for tourists. We did not meet or see anybody so we just used the hotsprings but techically you probably should go and ask the setler about 300 m downstream on the other side of the river for permission (and payment?). There is water everywhere on the trail even now when it had been dry for a few weeks. I looked for a route that would connect to La Junta in Cochamo and I found a start of a trail, but it might have been nothing and was anyway hopelessly overgrown. [I saw some puestos/settlers in valleys next to this pass: 41.3661786S, 71.9190514W in case somebody feels for an exploratory adventure that might not go).
* <span style="background-color:aqua;">'''2023-Dec-28 / 3.5 days / Packrafting / SOBO / RP + RR (Variant A) / Lauren & Sebastian'''</span>
From Entre Lagos we hitchhiked and took a bus + ferry to wp Ferry {20} [41.9/123] (Las Gaviotas) where we camped. It took us the entire day to get there so we stayed at the campsite right by the beach (CLP12,500 per person - expensive and maybe the other campsite is cheaper, but it was a very nice campsite with good facilities and hot tub if you like that).
