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Summary with remarks to route that are considered useful for other hikers and packrafters. Include alerts, suggestions and personal perception of attractiveness and difficulties.
Add a sub-chapter by placing two "=" before and after the new sub-chapter heading ('==Sub-Chapter Heading==').
=Section Log, Alerts and Suggestions=
Locals sent me to a kiosco, who Is situated very close to the point X {10} [0.0+0.3/937]. There's a ringtone, then a girl came to open the kiosco for a small resupply (tuna, fideos, chips and sweetness like candies, biscuits, and other stuff with a packaging of 90's that seems to be very bad for your body aha, but took it anyway).
*2024-03-25 to 2024-03-29 / 5 days / SOBO / RR + new route + Copahue summit opt 2. + opt 1 down Copahue + Nathalie/Tomas new route + gpt11 nobo back to Guallalí / Marilyne
Day 5 - Used GPT11 NOBO to reach Guallalí. Stopped at the hot springs (6.6km/991) on the way to clean up a little. It was a holiday in Chile, Good Friday, and I met two groups of people from the city that were driving around this remote road for fun. Reached Guallalí and went to the carabineros station to ask about camp possibilities. They mentioned a metal bridge about 3 kilometers away but not in the direction that I wanted to go (Ralco). I hung out close to the bus stop thinking about what I would do and eventually two of them came out to talk to me again. They said that they have to be careful with strangers as they are the police and never know people’s intentions but that they’d like to invite me to have some of the lunch they had made. They also let me camp next to the station to catch the 5.30am bus the next morning after checking my passport. I think that the fact that I was a solo woman helped. As I learned from our discussion, new police officers get assigned to this station every month and stay there for the full month, so this might not be offered again in the future.
* 2024-03-26 to 2024-03-28 / 2 days? / NOBO / RR / Fangwen + Tobi
There is no bus out of Trappa on holidays, and didn't find anything but 2 types of cookies and ice cream at resupply point there. You can ask the locals to drive you (for a fee) - they referred to it as "Fleeta"(?)
*2024-Mar-8 to 2024-Mar-11 / 2.5 days / SOBO / RR B / Matthias de Austria
We continued on RR with the intention to head to Guallalí. Along the way we meet a Mapuche arriero, Hector, at his pesto (-37.95912, -71.26119). If you pass by there and he is around, definitely make some time to talk with him. He was incredibly kind and generous, offered us coffee, took us to his animal corral to pet the goats, told us about the political structure in the Mapuche comunidades, and even showed us some of the medicinal plants in the area. He also sells goats and sheep and does asados, but we didn't ask the price. We were about to leave when a friend of his arrived to pick something up for a really important Mapuche ceremony that was finishing that day. His friend gave us a ride, which took us off the GPT track a bit, but dropped us very near a shop at (-38.01007, -71.30695) run by a woman named Maria that actually had a good selection of stuff. We bought pasta, a queso mantecoso from the region that lasted 3 days, her last can of Nescafé, some tomatoes and cucumbers, Zukos, and cookies. She also had eggs, frozen meat, sodas, beer, yogurt, a few other types of cheese, and various other things. Prices were very reasonable. She had a small table and a bench outside the shop and let us stay there to have lunch and repack. More than a dozen cars stopped by to buy things while we were there, so it seems like a pretty popular spot. From there we walked on the highway towards Comunidad Vilcuncura and on towards Comunidad Chenqueco. We passed one other shop at (-38.01473, -71.31626) that looked sizable and had a range of things, though we didn't buy anything there. In Comunidad Chenqenco we connected with GPT11 Opt 5A.
*2024-Feb-13 to 2024-Feb-14 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + OH E / Joscha
At km 32.1 (right before the start of OH10-E is a creek and some tables around. I think it belongs to a campsite there, but nobody cared that I did a break there. OH10-E is a big dirtroad with no water until km 8.4. I bought some cookies in the mini shop in Guallali + they allowed me to charge my power bank. After that I continued with section 11.
*2024-Feb-12 to 2024-Feb-14 / 2.5 days / Hiking / NOBO / Guallali - Trapa-Trapa / RR + Option D/ Alex & Christophe
*2024-Jan-14 to 2024-Jan-16 / 2,5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Hannes
From Trapa Trapa I went in this long valley, it is pretty packed with puestos. Had to check a few times the GPS in there, was quite often on a wrong trail. Many puestos create their own trail network…Went up to Laguna Liay and camped directly at the shore. I figured out two reachable beaches where you can put on one or two tents, one beach at the NW-shore, the other SE-shore. I camped at the second. Option 10D brings you down to it, but actually I could not find a real trail. This Laguna is just an amazing place, for me there was not just silence but peace! The special echo in this place has an effect. Next day I went to Laguna El Barco, for camping you have to pay. A huge laguna, beautiful, but with a check in and all the rules which apply. I do not like this. I went further and a few km before Guallalí I asked a Settler if I could sleep on his Eukalyptus plantation. The 3rd day I walked to Guallalí and stocked up for GPT 11 in the minimarket. For cigarettes I went to a house at -38.050512, -71,272100. There is a woman who sells tobacco and if you kindly ask her she might sell you one of her homemade bread loafs. Ask for the house of Cololo.
*2024-Jan-04 to 2024-Jan-05 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR - {10-C} - RR - {10-E} - RR / Lilian
Km15.65 : a sharp turning, after here trail become very overgrown, until km15.9. At km15.65 and km15.9, i both saw a clear path going to east, I'm not sure is it a new reroute by local and are they connect or not.
Km16.1 : junction of RR and {10-C} , I don't decide go for walk around the whole lake, but just want to visit it take a look, and collect some water.
RR Km16.9 : what a beautiful grassland! Easy trail start, enjoy the land scape changing and Araucaria forest. I love this area!
Pass RR [20.6/1850] : large flat area ( Most of the section10 is flat area), nice view point of Volcán Callaqui! Also the first view ( for SOBO) of Volcán Tolhuaca!
Because the weather becomes worse, very windy and cloudy, also the forecast said it maybe rain at afternoon, so i took {10-E}, shorter the distance rush to Guallalí.
Bus {10-E} [8.4/938] didn't find the shop that Martin & Helena said (close to Bus 10-E mark.) I asked the house owner beside the bus stop, and she said no shop there. I saw a sign beside the bus stop is erased away, also a banner looks like said "selling thing" already being discarded on the ground, so maybe the shop is closed no more? ( I'm not sure).
Dinner is delicious for goat and rice! Although not much enough for hiker hunger (never enough), but it is one of the best meal i eaten in Chile so far. They are super friendly, i'm very happy staying here with them!
I saw a bus arrive Shop {11} [0.1/951] on friday 6pm, but I don't know where it come from.
(-38.04741, -71.27506) look like is the church that Maks& Gabi said. A tree with beautiful grassland, but no good water resources nearby, the river beside it is flowing brown water, also farming and people living at upstream.
2023 Dec 30 to Dec 31 / 2 days / hiking / SOBO / RR / Ella
From Gaullali, there seems to be a daily bus leaving at 5.30 AM from in front of the turnoff to the carabinieros station. It goes to Ralco and then to Los Angeles. By mistake we first bought tickets to Ralco for 1300 and then to Los Angeles for 1500. It arrives in Ralco at 8:00 and stops there for 10 or so minutes. Next bigger stop is in Santa Barbara around 9:30. It arrives to Los Angels after 10:30. I think it goes back in the afternoon, possibly at 14:00, nut ask at the station.
2023 dec 12 - dec 14 / 2 days / hiking / SOBO / RR + B + C + F / Frans
Really nice walk all along. Easy navigation, nice views and not really demanding terrain.
2023-Dec- to 2023-Dec-8 / 2,5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR + variant G + variant E + variant C / Yannick & Nolwenn & Jens
Not much more to say on this section. We initially planned to go on 10-01 for the Volcan, but were told it would be a day of heavy rain and thus stayed on the RR (finally, not a single drop, just a little cloudy and windy).
* 2023-Feb-07 to 2023-Feb-10 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + option 01 Volcán Copahue / Natalie&Tomàš
The beginning of the road could have been some of my favorite scenery so far, The Araucaria trees surpassed my expectations and especially when they are backdropped with mountains and at one time an orange river ( glacier water flowing through sulphur like sediment?). The road for option01 had plenty of good water sources (~5x). Friendliest dogs at this puesto; -37.95898, -71.26155 and a teeny tiny amount of water.
Luckily got a hitch with a local to the bus stop shortly after the intersection with 01 and RR.
* 2023-Jan-25 to 2023-Jan-27 / 2.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Maks& Gabi
We stayed at Camping by Laguna el Barco and paid 8 000 for the both of us. The water in the shower is ice cold, but there are few ladies selling fresh, warm bread.
The public transport from the end of the section is the bus at 5.30 (Guallali) or bus point 5.45. We tried to hitchhike but with no luck. We camped in Guallali by the river (next to the church.
* 2023-Jan-25 to 2023-Jan-27 / 2.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / Johana & Matouš
We found this section surprisingly attractive - mainly the plateau was breathtaking. We spent the first night at a property of a Mapuche family (waypoint Camp - 7,1 km). Right before the ascent to Laguna Liay, there was a Mapuche family whose father approached us, he acted rather reserved from the start towards tourists (as he told us that they bring litter into the mountains) but we ended up drinking harina tostada with the family which also sold us some bread. We took the optional route which goes around the Laguna Liay and couldn't find the path so we somehow slid down the hill and went around the beach. Laguna Liay was really great to take a swim in and felt private (until a helicopter started hovering above our heads, taking water from the lake). There really seemed to be no water on the plateau - we took it from the Laguna and spent the night on the plateau - lots of space for camping there. The next day we arrived at Laguna El Barco, we didn't have to pay for the entry to the lake. The tienda there was open until 8 p.m. and had tuna, rice, pasta, biscuits, beverages, toilet paper, instant soups. There was a stand that made sopaipillas, churascos, french fries, salad, tortillas. Then there were some ladies going around the beach offering almost the same. We hitchhiked some of the last kilometres of the road to Guallalí. There's a shop as others indicated and a bus going only in the morning as written below. The chances of hitch hiking from there are rather scarce, as our Polish fellow travelers found out. There's a quite nice camping spot by the river further down the road (it's a few metres into the start of the section 11); it's not very private but people that were passing by didn't mind us camping there. Continued to section 11 thereafter.
* 2023-Jan-12 to 2023-Jan-15 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / detour past Laguna las Totoras / Will
Had a hard time finding accommodation in Ralco, the first five places I tried were full. Eventually found a spot at Cabañas Nehuen Antu for 30k.
* 2023-Jan-11 to 2023-Jan-13 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Martin & Helena
Contact: @martin_hanzelka @helenneka
* 2023-Jan-09 to 2023-Jan-10 / 1.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / Trapa Trapa - Laguna El Barco / Anna & Christopher
The next day we took option C around the lake, which was a mistake because at some point we couldn't find a path and ended up on a sketchy climb to the top of the plateau. The rest of the way to Laguna el Barco is easy with good paths.There is no water between Laguna Liay and Laguna el Barco.
At the Laguna they charge 5000 CLP p.p. for the picnic/beach and 8000 CLP p.p. for camping. From there we hitchhiked to Ralco to resupply.
* 2022-Dec-20 to 2022-Dec-23 / 4 days (GPT9 + GPT10) / Hiking / SOBO / Option C / Véronica
- The number of puestos in this Valley is impressive, I only had good contacts with the people I met
*2022-Feb-11 to 2022-Feb-12 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + optional section 10-E straight from Laguna El Barco to Guallalí / Veronika & Jo
Continued to GPT11 immediately after.
*2022-Jan-19 /3 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR / Molly and Melissa
The bus apparently leaves for Ralco at 6 and 18 every day including weekends.
*2021-Dec-03 / 2 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR + option D / Marc Anthony
All in all, the pehuenches an mapuches i've met are all amazing except this guy. I definitely had to inform you all but don't want you to think that they are some uncivilized savages by any means. Bernardino kept telling his wife that i was "solo" as his justification for robbing me as they argued. Therefore i don't recommend passing through there alone, especially not later in the evening. I think if you stick to the regular you will narrowly avoid the puesto entirely. Or definitely worth the extra few KMs to continue to exequel's puesto further up the OH route. Also, i had a few extra pesos in a separate pocket that i was able to pretend like was all the money i had which was clutch. An from now on, I'm not staking anything into the ground until i know the father of the family well.
Anyway, happy trekking, stay safe, an if anyone knows a good place to try an fix tent poles in concepción by chance then that would be awesome!"
* 2020-Jan-23 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Frank
Came in from Trapa Trapa in evening & camped @ Camp 81. There is a Mapuche family living there, talked to them & they were OK with me camping nearby. I was caught out by the sudden transition from river valley to dry plateau, had very little water & was as dry as dirt when I got to stream 1KM before Laguna Barco, drank 3 litres there. 3000CLP camping for 1 person @ Laguna. There is a Mapuche family with a food stall there, they have chips, sopaipillas & tortilla. The tortilla is like a small bread loaf. Next morning as I was leaving around 8:30 the Mapuche woman came round the campsite with fresh sopaipillas & tortilla. Walked in to Guallali from Laguna Barco in about 3 hours. Shop in Guallali is small but Romina who runs the shop provides beds & meals. 20,000 CLP for evening meal (usually goat & rice), bed & breakfast. Walked out 9KM to Comunidad Chanqueco, there is a good shop there. From Chanqueco it's easier to hitch, traffic coming from Laguna Barco but very little from Guallali. Hitched into Ralco, stayed @ Hosteria Montana there, about 15000CLP single.
2 supermarkets in Ralco, they sometimes have camping gas.
* 2020-Jan-12 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / Ian Hikes
Please feel free to reach out to me with any questions at ultratrailca@gmail.com
*2020-Jan-22 / 4 days (GPT9 + GPT10) / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Martin
Combined sections 9 & 10. 4 days. Sierra Velluda and Antuco Volcanoe were amazing. In Trapa Trapa the two small shops were out of stock, so we couldn't buy anything. Pehuenche settlers in "veranadas" were really welcoming and friendly to us. We asked anyway for permission to camp close to their settlements. We were invited by familia Crespo Manquepi for tortillas, tea and some other food and stayed there for a few hours. They are welcome to recieve gpt hikers and in the future sell some food and lodging. Really kind family. Just before the last big climb in section 10. No water for a long stretch after it. Recomend the detour to Laguna Liay, amazing. Resupplied in Ralco.
*2020-Jan-15 / 1.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Maddie & Tom
The trail was in good condition and we didn’t experience any issues. Possible to resupply at Guallalí but the selection isn’t huge (pasta, dry soups, crackers, tuna etc). If you are looking to bus into Lonquimay, it was leaving at 5:30AM the next morning for us (but we didn’t take it).
*2020-Jan-10 / 1.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Martina & Ivo
Easy trail and navigation. We got in this really bad weather too. Storm and ice at the pass. In Guallali we had coffee and sopapillas at the carabinieros and spent the night at the same place as Matus, Anna and Linda. We took the bus at 05:30 towards Los Angeles and are staying in Ralco for resupply and drying.
*2019-Dec-25 to 2019-Dec-26 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Linda
- In Guallali, end of the section, lodging, food and mini shop. Lodging at the way point Minishop very nice = guesthouse with diner and breakfast for 20000 CLP. Very nice family!!!!
* 2019-Dec-17 / 3.5 days (11 walking hours) / Hiking / NOBO / RR with hitch hiking between Guallali and Laguna el Barco / Sophie & Hendrik
We did not like so much: The horsflies.
* 2020-Jan-04 / 3.5 days (GPT9 + GPT10) / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Matus & Anna
==Season 2016/17==
=Resupply and Accommodation=
-The family selling cooked food close to Lake, Camp $ {10} [32.9/1292] wasn't selling food when I visited them around 11:00, maybe because it was monday morning, maybe because it was the end of summer, I don't know
=Transport to and from Route=
Updated January 2022:
Bus from Trapa Trapa to Ralco at 6 and 18 every day including weekends
=Permits, Entry Fees and Right-of-Way Issues=
=Links to other Resources=