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There were a lot of small and really annoying flies (I don't think they are tabanos, mainly because they are small, it is a dry area...). They were flying into the face and biting specially near the eyes. Putting a branch on the backpack did not help. I ended up covering my face to have some peace.
'''Note that in summer 2024, a new option 02 was inserted and the original options 2 and 3 increased their numbering.'''
==Season 2023/24==
* 24-Mar-09 to 2024-Mar-11 / 42 hours / Hiking / NOBO / GPT00?, GPT01, option 5? / Tomáš
Not sure if on topic as it is technically east of Santiago and not south (bit but also not north!), but I thought I would share anyway. A nice trail that can be done around Santiago while waiting around. In my opinion, it also better fullfils "starting from Santiago on foot", as the current start involves quite a long stretch from Puente Alto on road. Here you start walking 100 m from bus stop (C-02, every ten minutes or so from Los Dominicos) integrated into Santiago's public transport system , or 5 km from Los Domincos terminus of the red metro line (but really, why would you not take the bus?). [https://www.facebook.com/groups/222224388283455/posts/1765972160575329/ Pictures]. The entrance is 3500 CLP, in office hours. No problems having a backapack entering at 1300 when explaining the route (San Ramon to El Manzano). Early in the morning or late in the evening, there is an always-open door next to the gate. Going up to the ridge, there are several variants; I went to the pass just south of Morro las Papas and traversed more or less horizontaly to Salto de Apoquindo. After Patagonia proper, it is funny that such a small waterfall even honours a name. There is a (compostable?) toilet at the waterfall and one could camp there, but it is probably illegal and when I was there, a helicopter kept humming around - maybe it was looking for fires? Late camp and early rise would probably work though. Past this point, you are unlikely to meet anyone (up to there I only met ten people even though it was Saturday). The trail from there to the ridge is more or less clear for GPT standards. Last probably reliable water is around 2230 m of altitude.
* 2024-Jan-15 to 2024-Jan-17/ 2.5 days / SOBO / RR / Matthias de Austria
On the descent to GPT02 there is a marked trail (white markers) on the last kms. One can follow that path instead of RR where variant F comes in and avoid the walk on MR. When the path comes to a fence turn right and you’ll hit the RR again.
* 2023-Dec-15-18 / 72 hours / Hiking / nobo / Option 0402, ridge, option 02 / Tomáš
Apart from Option 02, I did not actually follow any existing GPT track but I this should be the approach has since been added for 2024as option 2. [https:/25, Jan said it looks excellent/www. I think the approcah will be called option 4facebook. com/groups/222224388283455/posts/1715267058979173/ Pictures] I started at the southernmost southmost stop of bus MB-74. The bus actually goes detours to several streets there some sidestreets and then comes back before reaching herethe same way again, so do not get off too early. You should be able to start from here: 33.7277389S, 70.5544877W. Just before the bridge, there is a locked gate. Some cars were passing though and let me through, just told me not to make fire. If the gate is locked , use the bridge 200 m downstream and go in the riverbank for 200 northwards - it is dry. There is another gate where the sideroad splits from the road that is still on OSM, roughly here: 33.7412080S, 70.5586867W. Again somobody opened it for me but this one could have been climbed easily.
The trail is both easily visible on satelite and Strava heatmap. First 2 km it is a road, then a worse road that transofrms transforms to path branches to the left to rejoin the road where another gate is - this cca 5 km part is flat. One then follows the fence on a steep slope until 100 m higher one rejoins very clear path. I am sure there is a better way than I took but it was still easy enough. From there a very clear trail goes all the way up to cca Cerro los Crystalles. Met a group of seven people on motorbikes who went up and down in a day. No water until about 2500 m. On Facebook group, I put pictures of the route, the GPX track need to wait until spring.
From the ridge, one could easily follow on GPT02 but I was interested in the ridge between RR and Option 3 roughly from here: 33.8464060S, 70.4211017W to Cerro los Purgatorio through Cerros Loma del Diablo, San Roque and Cruzada Las Hormigas. From the coordinates above, there is a trail that follows the ridge for a few km. Once it starts going down , I traversed back to the ridge. Better would have been to go over the hill than traversing. The ridge can be followed, there is a psth path that comes and go goes so it is a mix of TR and CC. Going down from San Roque is a bit tricky, one needs to sidetrack from the ridge at one point and maybe use a hand here and there. Another a bit challenging part is just before the final ascent to Cruzada Las Hormingas. It is abit exposed in those parts but not to too much. In SAC scale, somewhere around 4 or five, but out of 20 km of the ridge, this is only about 1 km m at most. And I do not claim to have found the best route, I think some of the clambering parts that were never vertical could probably have been sidetracked.
This time of the year, even on the ridge I crossed a stream with water three times (I will add added the streams to OSM later), very roughly at km 11, 17 and 20 (this one being on the RR). Only saw cows and condors.
I then crossed the RR and went on option 02, the ridge walk to Cerro Purgatorio. I would say it is SAC 4 (somewhat easier than the ridge), I used hands but it was very easy and not exposed at all. Descent from Cerro Purgatorio was surprisingly beautiful with all the flowers (which were there all over the ridge too). Even going down, from about 1500, the heat was really strong. Would not recommend any of this from early January till end of february given there might be very little water. Perfect for December and earlier. I hope both the ascent and the ridgewalk are is added to GPT. Every day, I would be abel able to get enough cell phone coverage to receive e-mails and chats but not much more.
Once on the standard route, I hitched a car going to the reserve, we put my backpack into the trunk, so the CONAF guards did not notice me at all and did not tell me anything. I had a reservation made online, there is a day limit of visitors. It cost 11500 pesos.
Once in the reserve, I took the trail going west of the stream (so the stream was on my left hand going uphill). Nobody noticed me and then I have not met anybody for 4 days. The trail is fairly clear, one goes up along a stream up until around 1900 metres (up to the last recommended camp). From then on until the nextother next other side of the mountain, there is no reliable water (I slept near a marsh around 2650m, but the water would not have been great).
The route is quite attractive. Walking in the lower valley in the heat is really sweat inducing. It took me 1,5 days to go up to the border of the reserve, I was weak from not much sleep before and the heat. But also it is quite far and I have not started walking until six or so on the first day as I rested quite a few hours waiting for te the heat to pass.