Cambios

Took advantage of a 3 days good weather window. Trail is officially closed since April 1 (until October). When you register at the Carabinieros (recommended), you have to sign a paper that you do it at your own risk and have to pay potential rescue cost yourself in case of rescue.

Followed OSM after the destroyed refugio as suggested by Frank below. Saw some cute beavers swimming. Lovely autumn colors all around. Had a late start and did not make it all the way to Refugio Charles. Also daylight „only“ only from roughly 8am to 7pm these days. Found at a dry and flat area within a small forest approx 1km south from the OSM river crossing.

Next day, instead of going to the refugio, I went up directly to Monte Bettinelli as was a sunny day that promised good views from up there. Crossed to the other side on a dam over a beaver dam. Took my shoes off for lake and the river crossingat a shallow spot slightly further north from where OSM suggests. Ice Not even knee deep but ice cold water. Couldn’t feel my feet for a while 🥶without shoes, ouch!

Beautiful views from Laguna Bettinelli and the Monte towards Bahia Windhound and the Cabo de Hornos archipelago. Snow from the previous week had almost entirely melted(saw that already from plane). Easy walk of passes Dientres and Australia but a different game if snow or rain (talked to a couple in the hostel that got snowed in over night the previous week, knee deep snow, stayed in their tent for a day).

Took high route back to town, nice views over the Beagle channel and Ushuaia from Cerro la Bandera. Saw no one else.