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==Season 2023/24==
* 2024-03-05 to 2024-03-15 / 5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR west traverse to Bahia Pescado / Maggie & Julian
Trail attractiveness 5/5,
Difficulty 3/5
Day 1: Ferry {37H} [7.6/269] (Puerto Bahmondez) to (-48.6326, -72.6078):
We organized a ride to the end of the Carretera Austral the evening before.
The trail up the first pass was for the most part easy to locate and follow. On the way down we had to be more alert not to lose the trail.
We camped on the beach by Laguna Verde at (-48.6326, -72.6078). A little wind exposed, but not too terrible the night we slept there.
Day 2: (-48.6326, -72.6078) to Camp Without Water {37H} [39.7/931]:
The area right before the Pass {37H} [39.3/1006] (Canadon los Patos) was gorgeous but too windy and cold to stay for long.
Camp Without Water {37H} [39.7/931] has a wooden wind barrier and is in a forested area. It also features a beautiful view down to Lago O’Higgins. The last water source before the camp was at (-48.6410, -72.7160) near the pass.
Day 3: Camp Without Water {37H} [39.7/931] to Camp {37H} [48.6/262] (Arrollo Derrumbe):
This day had a long section of relatively easy cross-country descent. It still took us a bit longer than anticipated. We really liked the protected lakeside campsite and decided to end our day earlier, camp there and go for a swim.
Day 4: Camp {37H} [48.6/262] (Arrollo Derrumbe) to Camp {37H} [66.0/343] (Vista Fitzroy):
At (-48.7103, -72.7526) we found a newly constructed gate. It wasn’t built to be easily opened, but we could slip through the space between two trees. At first, it didn’t look like there was anyone at Puesto {37H} [59.2/274] (Bahia Once Hermanos, Don Cocho), but when we looked back after walking by, we saw a dog near the house. Camp {37H} [66.0/343] (Vista Fitzroy) is not a great option on windy AND rainy days. A lot of spots are rather exposed to the wind or in danger of flooding in heavier rain. (-48.8127, -72.7170) is a decent spot if it is dry.
Day 5: Camp {37H} [66.0/343] (Vista Fitzroy) to Settler {37H-H} [4.5/264] (Bahia Pescado, Nicole and Misael):
Depending on the water level of Lago O’Higgins, Variant H to Nicole and Misael could be difficult to follow. Is this the case, take a path a little higher up on the RR and then traverse over. We had very strong winds in Bahia Pescado our first night and unfortunately, the camping spot was not really protected from it.
Notes:
- We found Nicole and Misael to be incredibly welcoming hosts. We had such a good time, and they could use some help around the house, so we ended up taking the boat a few days later than planned. The ticket for the ferry was easily transferred to a later time, although this might not be the case in high season. On the other hand, the weather turned bad right after our decision to stay, and it was unclear if we would be stuck for a while.
- Based on reports from yr.no and windy, we expected decent amounts of rain every day. However, to our surprise, we received only light showers a few times throughout the 5 days. Our InReach weather reports also seemed unreliable in this area. According to Misael, the southern Peninsula tends to have better weather than Villa O’Higgins.
* 2024-Feb-19 to 2024-Feb-23 / 5d / Hiking / SOBO / West Traverse / Andrew
This was a very challenging but rewarding section. A couple notes on logistics: The day before I left I arranged the ferry to pick me up from Bahia Pescado on February 24th to take me to Candelaria Mancilla. I also left a backpack with some extra food and possessions at the ferry office for them to bring on the ferry. Nicole and Miseal have starlink wifi, so it's easy to confirm the pickup details with the ferry once you get there. If you are traveling SOBO and don't have time for the full trek, this is the route I would recommend taking.
Day 1:
I started walking towards Puerto Bahmondes in the morning, nice views for a road walk. Got past the hydro station without any trouble, there were some workers on the dam but they didn't pay me any notice. Being my first truly wild hike on the GPT, this was definitely harder mentally and I lost the trail a few times. I got well off trail on one of the fords where I tried to find an easier crossing. Pro: found a big patch of calefate with plenty of ripe Berries. Con: had to bash a way through them and some mud to get back to the trail. Would just recommend crossing closer to the RR.
Going over the pass was physically exhausting, but I made it over and camped near the ford at km 18.4. The first camp after the pass is viable, but I decided to hike a bit further to the ford to camp somewhere a bit more sheltered.
Day 2:
Nice forest walking, lost the path a couple times but made it through. First ford was dry, but after I got stuck in a swamp and couldn't find a good path around so I just went through. Walked through the next ford, to clean my shoes and socks. This ford was shallow and an easy crossing. The 3rd ford was the most difficult, deeper water and more current.
I wasn't able to find the path at the northern terminus of the lake, but I walked parallel through the forest until I could join the well marked trail. There were a couple nice camping spots in the corrals near the lake. I stopped for a break but decided to push onwards to get a bit more distance because I wanted to camp near lago o'higgins the next day.
First ford was easy, 2nd ford was more difficult. Lots of burrs along the way. Camped in the forest across the ford at km 31.7, although I think there was a nicer spot before the ford.
Day 3:
Walked through the dead forest, and after a short period of time I found a visible trail.
I would recommend staying to the south of the creek as you approach the pass, impassable brush on the North side
Lost the trail near the ford (km38.9) before the pass, and had to push though some brush. The trail gets swampy approaching the pass. Stunning views appear over the pass, this view is a highlight of the GPT.
After the pass there's a steep descent through the forest and the long cross country parts were challenging and exhausting. I camped near the shore of Lago O'Higgins in a sheltered clearing (Arrollo Derrumbe km48.6) - the only water I could find was the lake which was a bit tricky in the high winds.
Day 4:
I came across a gate that I marked on my GPS tracks. Don't trust the easy trail after gate, you will need to divert left. Amazing views continued despite an hour of heavy rain. Camped just after the ford at km63.6. Both before and after the ford had viable campsites, but lots of cows and cow patties around. Note that if you camp after the ford you will need to duck through the gate in order to get water.
Day 5:
My last day was a short hike to Nicole and Miseal's house. We had a lovely time there before catching the ferry the next morning. I shared a delicious meal with them and two of their visiting friends, and bought some excellent bread.
* 2024-Feb-10 to 2024-Feb-16 / 7d / Hiking / Travel Direction (SOBO) / OH-37H-01, OH-37H-09, new Trail, OH-37H-01A, OH-37-A (not existing anymore), RH, RR, OH-37H-K / Tom
I startet for 10 days with food for 12 days. I wanted to verify a few not yet verified OHs and EXP. Due to a little accident at RR km 96 I returned earlier as planned.
On day one I climbed Cierro Alta Vista. The junction to OH-CC&TL-A was easy to find. The track was not that accurate and you will find some better options by visual decisions. At 920m when the bush changes to wood go 30m west to the ledge and climb further up. 2-3 short sections where you use your hands, watch your steps especially with heavy backpacks. I pitched the tent near the small laguna on 1220m.
The next day was on new terrain straight to the west ridge of cierro Altavista. I didn't do the peak due to snow fall and heavy winds. Then downhill to pass 37H-01A 2.7/822. That's very demanding in snowy/rainy conditions and the pass is hard to approach through the bushes. I don't know If ever a person did this section.
The following OH-TL-V 37H-01A EBO is easy going but sometimes the track differs from the gps track. OH-37_A is completely owergrown and not visible anymore. I went further east back on RH and climbed the pass.
Ford 1 in the Laguna Verde Valley offers a log 50m upstream, ford 2 dry, ford 3 knee deep. Some 50m I hiked in the river since the shore was gone. RH to laguna Verde is not anymore the best option. Following the river (OH) and the horse tracks is easier. Pitched at 29.3 in the old corral.
I couldn't cross Rio San Martin due to heavy winds and strong current and decided to go back to OH and follow it SEBO towards Bahia San Martin on OH-TL&CC-V {37H-K} [0.0+1.8]. After a quick glance and seeing all the logs I changed my mind and went to RR. I followed RR-TL-I {37H} [117.0/104.5+0.2] resp tried to. Go 40m north and find a decent trail that connects to RR-CC-A {37H} [116.3/103.8+0.7] . I consider this A as a V. The challenge starts right after the RR-TL-I {37H} [115.4/102.9+0.9]. This is not anymore TL, it’s BB or swim (the track leads into the river). I was stuck in the bush 5m over the riverbed.
Somehow I could escape straight uphill onto OH-TL&CC-V {37H-K} [0.0+1.8]. (500m/h) was my pace :)
Right after the river crossing on east cost, the track pointed into the lago. I didn’t want to swim and decided to follow an huge animal path into the mountains. The worst decision on this day! Iended up in the rocks and stuck again (this was a bit scary) eventually after another 1.5 hours I was at the starting point, bleeding and exhausted. I decided to stay here. The goal was far away, a little behind rio Aro to do some Aro valley investigation the next day.
I changed my plans since my ankle was a little sprained and went back to Laguna Verde to find an appropriate alternative to RR where I was stuck in the bush the day before. I could verify a few trails. RR from this side towards towards the puesto is existing until the ford, but not much further downstream. The river ate 100-150m of RR. There is also a second ford closer to the puesto. The puesto was unmanned. OH-TL-I 37H-M from the puesto to west shore of rio San Martin is easy going.
At the end of the curve of RR-CC-A {37H} [116.3/103.8+0.7] I found a new connection. Turn exactly east CC for 60m , you’ll hit a not yet known connection trail to OH-TL&CC-V {37H-K} [0.0+1.8] . If coming from east coast pass the connection and keep to the right when TL splits 200 m off shore. You’ll end at the viejo corral.
On pass Portezuelo el Roce (RR-TL-V 111.7/948) I tried to climb the mountain SW of the pass. Unfortunately I couln'd find a pass through be woods behind the rock band. I tried the peak on the other side of the pass and made it to the top 1km S of the pass. All easy CC in loose rocks. Outstanding view from Laguna Verde to Villa O'Higgins and almost to Candelaria Mancilla.
*2024-Mar-25 to 2024-Mar-27 / 2.5 days hiking + 2.5 days waiting/ Hiking / SOBO / RR, West Traverse + OH G + H / Joscha
