Cambios

- Option roads : option 5F | (1) gravel road, for us on a Sunday, we didn't encounter a car for the first 12 km then got lucky and got a ride to Troyo - we also got an easy hitch from Toro to Puente qcontraco. Option 5 | (2) easy track. From km 7,15 ( fundo los Guindos) to km 1,2 you are in Mapuche territory. At km 7,15 , two guys with some big knifes hanging on their belt asked us to stop. They were a bit cold and not really welcoming. They explained to us that they were retaking their land and therefore needed to register everyone who was entering.They took a picture of our passport and let us go after saying that we should go to the house at km 2,45 so someone there could help us cross the river ( Rio Chaquilvin) where there is a cable car. Once we arrived to the house, a woman ( really not nice) blackmailed us in order to give her money because we were on her land. When we asked how much for the fee she just said " what do you got ? ". So then we negotiated a little bit but quickly gave her some money ( 7000 pesos), but she was asking more.... There was a big dog behind her and we were feeling really uncomfortable and just wanted to get out of the situation. She didn't help us cross the river and just said " if you die it's your responsibility '.

- Warning : Mapuche land - read section ' option roads' | A lot of snow at the pass on RR.