24
ediciones
Cambios
sin resumen de edición
==Season 2022/23==
* 2023/04/21 - 2023/04/26 / 5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR and Option 6 / Christopher and Anna
Tolhuin - Estancia Haberton - Laguna Esmeralda - Laguna Submarina - Ushuaia
We arrived in Tolhuin in the evening and started walking for a couple of kilometers until we got a ride to km 7,6. We camped next to the dirtroad.
At km 17,6 a sign indicates the beginning of the official hiking route "Sendero the Lucas Bridges".
This gave us hope for a good trail and this was the case until the puesto at km 18,5 which could provide a good shelter. Soon afterwards the good trail stopped and it seemed as if the trail hadn't been used for ages.
The first couple of kilometers the old path was relatively easy to follow though. After around km 20 until the end of Valle Río Valdez the path disappeared multiple times and we walked a lot of CC stretches. From km 26,2 on you have either the option to follow the main route in the forest which includes climbing over and under LOTS of fallen trees. Or there's the option to walk along the river bed with LOTS of river crossings. We ended up doing a combination of both. We cannot say which one is faster. Both ways were equally slow for us.
Generally, it's an extremely wet and muddy terrain, so wet feet are guaranteed. What contributes to this greatly are tons of beaver dams. Never have we seen so many of them and of such a size. The landscape of the whole valley is changed by the beavers.
We camped at km 29 in the forest. In the forest along the valley are lots of camping possibilities.
The next day we kept following the GPS and walked on a trail most of the time. There is still a sign from the official sendero there. Then one of the hardest CC parts started. We tried to follow the GPS since it worked well before that day, but there was pretty much no trail anymore. This peeked by being blocked by a huge beaver dam where we could still see an old mark of the sendero in the middle of the dams lake! We made a big detour around it, and the water of this wetland was painfully cold. Behind the dam is still a shelter of the official campsite "Campamento Bruzo".
There we found the trail again which had in a small muddy stream, but it got better the higher we got. From the pass on the trail is marked by poles. Up there walking was easy despite some snowfields.
On the way down the trail got harder to follow again and the wetlands started. What probably used to be the "Rancho Lata camp" is still an ok shelter and afterwards the way is blocked by another huge beaver dam.
We continued by mostly sticking to the river zick-zacking from side to side. At some point we found some animal trails that we followed.
There is another shelter at km 47,7. Once the muddy wetland stopped walking became easier, but we still made lots of river crossings. Again there are lots of possible campsites along the river. We camped somewhere around km 45,5.
The next day continued similarly until we saw the first fence at around km 50. There we climbed two fences and soon reached a dirtdoad that leads to the road RP33.
It started to rain and we tried to hitchhike in either direction to get a connection and to check the weather. The exit of the sendero leads through the property of a company called "Sintigas". A car from the company soon arrived and we asked them if there would be someone going the other direction and luckily there was. They invited us in for lunch, mate and medialunas until the driver was ready to go to Ushuaia. We were additionally lucky because "Estancia Haberton" is closed now due to the season being over and therefore almost no cars passed by.
We got off the car at the parking lot of Laguna Esmeralda. We walked in the forest and soon pitched our tent once we found water. There are no camping forbidden signs there.
The next day we left our backpacks in the forest and went to see Laguna Esmeralda. The trail was super muddy and slippery, even though they built some woodbridges in between. The Laguna was nice and the view from there was great. Walking down lots of people came our direction. Seems to be popular spot, despite the mud.
The sky cleared and we continued to option 6. The trail up to Laguna Submarino is an official trail and finally we could walk on a good trail with just a few muddy sections. The option is really nice and passes two great waterfalls. At some point there was still snow, but nothing too bad.
After we reached the Laguna we crosscountried up to the pass. The views up there were truly amazing.
Down the other side of the pass was all CC. First some technical parts across rocks and gravel. It's probably better to stick to the downward left side. The we stuck to the river which worked out pretty well. Reaching the valley walking is quite easy, because it's all a marshy and mossy terrain but one doesn't sink in badly, so it's almost like walking in pillows.
The wet floor just limits the potential campsites. We camped at km 8,6 between the trees left of the river.
The last day was tough. The forest kept getting denser. We continued staying close to the river. At km 6,3 we deviated a bit more to the left of it because there is a forest free area indicated on the map. That was a short good part. Then it got really steep. The forest close to the river is partially really dense, directly at the riverbed are tons of fallen trees and the hillsides a super steep. We kept switching between these areas wherever it seemed best. We continued to walk in the direction of option 6b, because the forest was less dense around there. At km 0,56 of option 6b a pretty old overgrown dirtroad appeared out of nowhere. We were so happy to finally see some kind of path and followed it, although it was not visible from time to time. From aprrox. km 1,6 of option 6 there was an actual trail and once we reached the final hill we were rewarded by an amazing view of the beagle canal and its surroundings and our struggles of the day were forgotten.
At km 110,8 we reached the RR of section 69 and followed the really good path. There are lots of visitors there and we hitchhiked from the parking lot at km 114 to Ushuaia.
==Season 2021/22==
