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With only a little info about the overall trail condition we started from Lago Puelo beach. On the way there is a PN office (that was closed in the late afternoon), toilets and even a kiosk that makes small pizzas and has some basic things. The beginning of RR is well marked with blue-white marks and maintained. We didn’t notice the X waypoint and ofc took the wrong trail, later we found place for camping at around km 5 where is an old sign and safe place to camp (no water) with all the falling trees in mind. Camp at km 8.5 is perfect, flat circle of grass and amazing view. Water at km 11.2 was basically dry, but the one after it had a small creek. The way down to the valley was still marked but not so obvious in some places. It was a pleasant surprise for us to find down there campsite with opportunity to buy some food - we had a milanesa sandwich, a little more expensive (around 2500 ARS), but good with local draft beer. They accept cc and have (poor) wifi connection. From the campsite there is a official trail to El Turbio that took us around 4 hrs, easy walking. At the end of it the RR leads closer to the lake, but we followed the marks to a gate near to the settlement. We camped there but the official campsite is probably on the open field behind the settlement. In the morning we met the settler / guard Mario - his number is +54 9 2944 20-4904 if you need it. He adviced us to take the optional trail from there and wrote down our contact details. He surprised us with his estimate of 4-5 days to get to the other side and we had to promise to let him know when we’ll get there.
We decided to follow Mario’s advice and go with the eastern valley instead of RR. From El Turbio the trail was in good condition (only less visible sometimes) up to a point where you reach junction of two rivers and the trail turns right, basically leading you into the river. We found out that there is actually a trail on the left side of the river that leads into the forrest but t at the end will take you almost to the junction with RR. As we were coming closer to that point, it was harder to follow the path, that was overgrown in some places and with a lot of fallen trees.
After the junction we continued actually in the river for some time and camped at km 45 (funny combination of river walking and bush-bashing, there must be some new term for that). Bush-bashing continues from that point and things don’t get better until beginning of the CC part. There are hunderds of fallen trees and no trail to follow. We tried to go higher up but with no luck, you probably just have to find a way through it. Expect very slow progress. CC starts as soon as you get out of the forrest and follows the river. Walking on both sides of it or directly in it is what we did and there was still some remaining snow. Spectatular views of Tres Picos.
