==Season 2022/23==
*2023-Jan-16 03 to 2023-Jan-25 09 / Natalie & Tomáš5 days / OH 06-02 & 06-03 NOBO / Laguna Maule to Vilches wHiking / volcansSOBO / 10days David and Erika
An extremely long description so my apologies but hopefully it will help someone. We Started shortened this route by 25 km with a resupply at the restaurant in Los Alamos (past the ghost town of Los Ciprese) Great peeps there, who served us breakfast, recharged batteries, sold us enough ramen and soup to keep us going. For another 5 days. Also gave us a lift to a road above the border crossing at Laguna del Maule , avoiding an unnecessary conversation with boarder guards. It intersects OH-CC-A{07-01C} and ended starts at where the lake begins, also know as GPT section 2 alts Laguna Dial. This is a great at and plenty of water in Vilches with inclusion Jan. Eliminated also the 500 meter climb and avoids some locked gaits and right of Descabezadopassage issues. Pretty straight forward from there till the end. One Pyrenes puppy trailed us after passing a Puesto. Owners said the puppy didn’t come back. If that happens again, Azulthey suggest to deter the puppy from following by using a stick. We found that the settlers at the first water source after the English bridge (marked Water, Settlement {07} [150.6/834]-36.61455, -71.2763) is a delightful family who offered us refuge, a lift in the morning to San Carlos, Descabezado Chico and Coloradolively entertainment.
All fords super easy or jump-able. Only times water was scarce was Descabezado and Azul (technically there is melt water from glaciers at Azul), the afternoon around Descanezado Chico and also water was scarce around the Laguna des acquas caliente because I would not trust drinking that water (some springs are cold water though). Weather turned bad only once while we were climbing Azul, the change happened rapidly and we went from blue skies to total white out (~10m or less visibility) within an hour. Other than that weather was amazing, a little cold at night and a little warm in the day.
Happy we started in Laguna del Maule and finished in Vilches. This saved elevation gain and let us decide whether or not we had enough food in the end * 2023-Mar-23 to climb Descabezado, Azul2023-Mar-30 / 8 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Hannes, chico Luisa and for Tomáš Colorado.Noemi
Day1.Starting in Talca, due Hitchhiked from San Clemente to a certain someone Laguna del Maule (methere are some buses to El Colorado) I accidentally sent Tomáš and I too Molina on a bus instead of "la mina" so our day was very messed . First night up but the valley, second night we still managed to take a bus to Colorado slept in Carizales. Little before we were welcomed at the puesto de Carabineros who gave us harina tostada, warm bread, marmelade and hitchhike juice and showed us the way to the start mini shop; Friendly owner there who let us sleep close to the shop. Next day we slept in the middle of this routeamazing huge and warm valley where Irma and Co. Buses from Talca make their cheese...the following day we stood at her puesto and had a great evening with some local arrieros. The day after we went up to la Mina go the Laguna and camped at; 7:00amthe first lake fed by the Laguna, 1:00pm (only to la Suiza)was a great option, 3:00pm nearly no wind and 7:00pmwarm water to swim in. We took a bus ...Next days (2,5 more) all along to Colorado due to time and hitched get out at Los Sauces. A section which impressed by the rest people we met, not so much because of the waytrail, which has been rather annoying sometimes because of entire valleys to be walked through. The last hitch ...Laguna Dial was a highlight but the rest just walking to get in and out with no super special highlights. This is a snowplow truck section where you get loads of contact with arrieros and he dropped us off miraculously at this makes this section so unique. Value is more on the start of people than on the trail and before any customs or checkspanorama.
OH-TL-V {06-02} (109.1). Straight away the trail is hard to see, do not take the road-looking trail on the side of the mountain because it ends, stick to the gps. However soon we were walking on the correct route through the sand and down to a creek with fun boulders. Easy to follow. After this first creek we followed option OH-CC-A (06-02) {98} For only -5km until making camp in-between a river and and canal with flowing water. Bogs in this area slowed us down a lot.
Day2. OH* 2023- {06Jan-02} 24 to 2023-[ (93) & (86) ]This day seemed long, we crossed two passes, one small (Jan-35.94909, -70.45347) and one much larger (-35.88855, -70.46776). I liked the entire area south of the second pass, many beautiful camp spots, water was available almost to the top of the pass and there is also a nice waterfall29 /swimming pool located roughly around (-35.90452, -70.45218). Trail to first pass was easy but trail between first and second was much more cross country, there are many animal tracks, I followed the gps and Tomáš followed a trail closer to the river and we both ended up at the same spot... After the second pass, the GPX goes cross-country right away, but one can follow a trail that goes left and later reconnects with GPx.6 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + Option 7/ Ondrej
After the second pass there is a small plateau and then it follows down a creek with water until you must cross El Medano - Puente InglésOverall, GPT07 has many different faces which I really enjoyed - alpine-like pastures, mighty rivers, an east hill impressive laguna, and go towards your first mountain puesto to even forests for the east (noone home)last 25km. Most of the trail goes through long valleys. There is only a little bit minimum of water heresteep descents and ascents. However, better water at the creek you came from length and the afternoon heat still make this section challenging. Occassional fruit trees, mini-shops, arrieros, and or a few creeks aheadfriendly carabineros make this trail even nicer.
From the puesto (-35.86707, -70.47589) there is a good trail that trvaerses the slope ahead. We should have camped but we continued. There were a few nice creeks that were passed along the way. We were forced to make a "make-shift" camp before hitting a much nicer plateau because it was dark and I was not having a good day 😅. It is about 6 km between the puesto and the plateau.Details:
Day 3OH {06-02} [78.6] + [75.7] + [63.6]Easy On the 1st day, only one small pass. There is an ex-carabiniero puesto I started hitchhiking from El Medano at (-35.842778am Tuesday, -70.40285) and a highlight was two riversno luck after 20 min so I decided walking, one at (-35.76317, -70.42051) and one river at (-35.74734, -70.45623). The GPX is marked as trail hitched a bit further than car in the actual trail goes middle (the trail continues to a puesto down-riverafter 6km). You need As I got to go down a ridge and ford the riverfence at the trailhead, there were some footsteps that can be followed. We two cars but no one outside, so I just walked near {06-02E} along a river filled with sand around it and not great for drinking but all was ok. Path up the first valey was nice, there is a creek that starts/ends here beautiful green plateau afterwards (-35.72759, -70.44125what a pleasant change after gpt06!). We camped near this way point in the sand but it got windy Cows sometimes camp at night, we wished we camped a bit further from the river in “camp” waypoints. Better not to 100% rely on the little hills where it was considerably less windymarked spots and look for other places. In general there are many good spots for camping.
Day4OH {06The 2nd day marked a slow descent to Carrizales, easy trail and nice views, water pastures can be avoided by following the cliffs alongside the valey. Just be careful, some rocks are unstable -02} [59I fell once and scratched myself.6] + [29On a sidenote, I was quite impressed by the birds that start screaming like an old alarm clock as soon as they spot you, so every being in the valey knows you’re there. Carabineros in Carizales are the best guys ever. They served me a chilled cola and taught me how to prepare harina tostada (i also got some from them). I showed them how the satellite comm device works in return. I camped at the amazing hotsprings after Carozzales. I met two arrieros there who were just leaving. No one else showed up, so I rolled out my mat just next to the hotsprings (there is not enough space for a full tent, but a mat fits quite nicely) and spent a night there.1] + {06-02D}
This day we passed a large pass (-353rd to 5th days are again slow descents/ascents through valleys.65200, -70.43356) via {06-02D}. This option was more direct and involved a Fords are very short and easy scramble onto a windy plateauat this time, not above knees. Surprisingly lots of water up towards the pass, last one being Cheese from Irma is great (-35.66343, -70.4266610k CLP per kilo) , however but pack it at least in two ziplock bags otherwise you’ll have the water available had a lot of sand excess liquid all in it, fyi. From camp we followed a cow trail until a lake your backpack like feature (-35I had.70057Irma also had beer, -70.42733) cookies, chips and then went cross countrytuna. Laguna Dial is beautiful but indeed no shade. I hope my cairns marking camped in the middle at one of the camping spots on the turn for {06-02D} surviveshore.
After On the pass 6th day I was walking along Rio Gonzáles. From km 130 the true Descabezado environment begins. We both made note section is full of how terrible it would be to be on this plateau in bad weather, very open forests and CCextremely beautiful. Next water source would be a couple of creeks here The fords are fun. Once the route reached the bridge (-35km 143.612151), -70I decided to follow the advice of other folks and took the alterative option 7 (i.42156)e. From a break staying at this creek we ended up going straight down the creek bedleft bank of the river). Kind The climb is significant for the first 6km of exhausting mentally and would not be possible the optional route (about 500m in early season due altitude) and without a proper shade. Fortunately there are multiple streams around during the climb. Once you get to water levels but it shot us out directly about 1200m in line for making a green camp here (altitude, an oak forest starts, another face of gpt07, very beautiful. At about there the trail forks into two paths. I took the option 07-35B (the southeastern path of the fork) and it was a bad choice.56164, The trail was hard to find and there were overgrown parts. After some trying I decided to turn back to the fork and continue with the north-70west route.44009)The trail there was very well marked and easy to follow. So my advice is once you reach the fork, take the path to your right.
Day 05OH {06-02} [29Buses from Puente Inglés to San Fabian go at 7am and 10am.1] + [20]Lagunas de aquas calientes day. An easy day with a lot of time spent at Aquas Caliente, true San Fabian has cabanas that tend to the namebe overbooked. Trail from camp was easy Here is my advice: try to follow until book Cabanas Nativas in advance (-35they are on whatsapp).53519If not possible, -70visit them and check on the day.46551) The owner called about 4 other cabana sites for me and tried to find me a spot. He then it went CC offered me to the Laguna. If shelter is needed stay with them in this open landscape we found a rock shelter here the last free cabana (-for 12 people) for 35.51276, -70000 CLP (i.51035e. a price of a small cabana)which was amazing. There are also two camping sites which have always a spot for a tent. The creek feeding the Laguna was fabulously warm in places - either first one is located at the source of the creek or at a spring on the right side about 100m upriver. Tomáš found the proper source of the spring here (-3536.503955650377, -7071.523475525476)and is just next to a river. It is easy to get sunburn why bathing mid-day thoughcalled Camping Jahuel. There are some camping spots near the creekPrice is 6,000 CLP per person. After this Laguna there The second one is a nasty and windy sand stretch until a creek located here at (-3536.489805541935, -7071.576675406932)and is called Camping Luciernagas. The price is 15,000 per a tent slot. On this stretch I chose not to follow liked the sand but detoured on first camping more solid ground to the east (-35.48839 In terms of resupply, -70La Montana supermarket has gas canisters.56200) and was glad I did. Later There is also a good supermarket on we found snow melt here the main road (approximately -3536.485445579937, -7071.599405514614) and loaded all the water we would need for night/morning and exploring Descabozado Chico the next day. San Fabian is overall a lovely city worth spending some time in.
Day 06
OH {06-02} [20] + {06-02C Chico} + [4.5]
Descabozado Chico + Vulcan Colorado (Tomáš)
Went up and around the crater of Descabozado Chico in the morning which I highly recommend. The crater is easy to walk around and gives an amazing 360 experience. The climb up is tedious but non* 2022-dangerous scree that makes for a super fast decent. Make sure you have enough water because water is scarce there. I saw a waterfall on the NE side the lake but did not go to it, Tomáš got water somewhere off trail around here (Dec-35.51226, -70.65626) and I drank out of the next lake -35.52036, -70.65873 (questionable, but nothing happened 31 to me). From the lake the next pass begins and I stupidly made Tomáš and I carry 5L of water up it because I did not think there would be water on the south side (both of us overlooking the river indicated on the map)...I was wrong, no water high up but lots of water down low. For the pass we opted not to follow the route because it was thick steep sand so we instead climbed a more solid ridge here (2023-35.52506, Jan-70.66854). 05 / 6 days / Hiking / SOBO / Option 07 / Tomáš went to continue up Vulcan Colorado and I boringly traversed to the normal pass and enjoyed a very fun sand ski down the south side. The Vulcan is a steep but not technical hike up, the crater can be walked around with a steep but fun descent on the other side in SW direction. This pass would be very tiresome climbing up due to sand. If you are coming from the opposite direction and do not trust the lagoon water then you should aim for (-35.51226, -70.65626) or bring water.
Everything this day was CCThis has so far going SOBO been the easiest but also the worst part. Apart from the last 45 km amd a few spots, there is a lot of road walking and the long flat valleys are not much spectacular. I found it to be wonder how the hardest day navigation-wise but still alternatives compare. Laguna del Dial is not troublesomethat attractive, there are no trees around. We finished What is good are fruit trees, from the day shop in a nice valley before the next days climb here (middle of nowhere there are plume-35.55427like trees that probably ripen in late January, -70.70793at the Laguna there are probably edible bushes of wild currant (probably ripe in January). The water around this area is and at the end at the penultimate bridge, there are lots of cherries at a bit sandy but better puesto and then 1 km further up in a former puesto - these ripen in December.
Day 07 Last pass and New route possibly By this time of the year, all the fords were easy, not above my knees.
From camp a trail existed to the pass at -35.55228I ressuplied in Talca, -70.73791. There was a little bit of snow at the top but since there were already steps madewhere I got using two cars, it was zero problem. Lots of water on took me about five drivers and about 4 hours to go to the SE of this pass but only a trickle of water on place where GPT branches off the NW side at -35main road.54575, -70I missed the hot springs in El Medano.75672. This water trickle point is where we left the trail The trackfiles want to make a short cut you to Descabezado. To our surprise our route worked and in 4hrs we were making a camp at 2630m next keep walking far to the approach trail to Descabezado, therefore saving a lot West of time, distance and elevation. In our route there was only one difficulty and that was a deep gorge and creek "jump" at -35.57904, -70.77929. Personally I would not recommend this in early season because the consequence of falling hut in the river might take you down fenced compound, but there is a waterfall and trail close to the traverse may otherwise fence that can be nasty if there are still snowfields around altitude 2700mfollowed to the minor road behind. The gorge There is fed by no cell phone coverage on the glacier in major road after the crater of Descabezado so in the morning it should be better but the water is very dirtyhot springs.
The first pass is nice, soon after there are lot of puestos and this was the first section where I drew actually met people-arrieros every day. The descent to the route on valley is uneventful, once you reach Rio Saso, there is a minor road with very little cars. Carabinieros took my photos of details, asked where I went, I said Laguna del Dial and that was that. There was nobody at the pass if anyone wants themshop (and they have very little supply from what I could see from the window) around 1830. Otherwise here They seemed to have wifi in case somebody badly needs it, it is my description password protected but you could ask. A few km before the hot springs, a trail branches off the main road - then it is about 10 km of our routetrail before you reach the road again. This stretch and a few km around the shop are quite nice deapite the road).
From the small trickle creek at -35.54575The hot springs are nice, -70perfect temperature.75672 head SW up the creek bed in the direction of this easy pass ***-35.55513Right next to them, -70.76977. Nearby spots would work too except there is place for the pass directly above the creek bed, the other side of that one had snow and rocks. After this pass I believe it is easiest to just go straight down and up like a half pipe rather than trying to traverse and keep elevation, we aimed single person for a middle looking plateau on the other side, this middle plateau took us sleeping otherwise you need to camp further downstream or at the proper crossing of the gorge here, -35camp waypoint.57923They can easily be reached in two days, -70.77864 (más o menos). We jumped the gorge and climbed easily up the other side although the other side looks like a scramble it was actually just walkingtrail is easy. We travesed this altitude for a little longer (although I would suggest easier walking a little lower) until we made camp in a ravine very close managed without really wanting to miss the Descabezado approach routesecond carabinieros befora the Laguna. Our camp even had a small amount of flowong snow melt so it was heaven in my mind! (Camp with water; -35.59280, -70.78723)The roads only ends less then 10 km from the Laguna.
Day 8Descabezado & AzulThe first waypoint "hot springs?" is in the middle of the river, not sure what itnisnsupposed to mean.
This is turning into a novel so I will keep this short. We left our tent in place and set off early to do Descabezado and Azul as a day trip. Descabezado was straightforward, it seems The section feom the trail will change slightly every year depending on who makes the tracks second pass (neither the route in oSM or GPT seem to follow one after the actual trail from about 2600 to 3300laguna). If wanting to make the true summit it looks like you have to go down into the crateris really nice, cross the glacier and approach it from the other side. Coming down Descabezado was very fast but we made a huge mistake and left the GPT trail to follow first woth some trees, at the other osm route that heads east then west called "Descabezado Grande - Quizapu - cerro Azul"end with lots of trees.
This route should be avoided for many reasons apart from The second "hot spring?" waypoint is real you need to ford through the fact that the other route is easier despite elevation gain canyon a bit (we took the other route back). This osm route took us here -35.61301, -70.75604 which was actually a glacier covered in sand with a small hanging glacier above causing a lot of rockfallis fun on its own, it was a very ugly place and we carefully got out of there and made or way to are places where you can leave the canyon abiut 200 m downstream from the proper route to Azulhot. Despite loosing almost 2hours on an already tight day we continued (although I wasted an extra 30min due to making up my mind🙄spring). Once again on the way up to Azul we did not follow the normal way but went to the east side of the crater of Azul where the bad osm route is. There were a foot print here and there but reach it was CC. The crater was amazing but water is too windy to enjoy hot, it springs not much, we saw a few fumaroles. We continued CC to above the base of Azul, a tiny bit of snow (or glacier remnants?) but posed no difficulties. The base of Azul is beautiful with melt water if needed. We followed levlnof the ridge to Azul, it was more involved than Descabezado but no more than a low 3rd class (it is a bit exposed and steep but almost exclusively hiking)river. There is a interesting summit tower on Azul but because of the wind and time we had no desire I tried to stretch our limits. Weather moved in fast and before we were off the ridge of Azul we were completely covered in make a white out, maybe maximum 10m of visibility. Navigation was incredibly hard but we took our chances and took pool where the other ("valle") OSM route water could cool down and luckily but have not finished it was a very easy route and we were down below the clouds and able to see again. The rest of the night was CC back I encourage you to our camp ~1030pm. It as a good daybuild upon it.
Day 9Then there is a stretch with a lot of fording (there it is gorgeous), one last ford is missing from the waypoints- you need to ford about 20 m along a steep rock fa e that falls dire,tly to the river. Do not try to go around it.
From our camp in Once you reach the ravine we headed CC and then onto last bridge where the minornroad to the end of section begins (in the files it is mislabeled as trail that lead ), I encourage you to stay on the puesto at basecamp Blancquillo left bank and from then on we were climb a bit on option 07. It goes through really nice oak (I think) forrest and it is a good trail. While walking down we opted almost to stay in sandals and just walk in the river, it was refreshingend of the section. We didn't have clean water until I think thi Sparta is almost the valley bottom at the CONAF camp (valley El venado) where there was also lots nicest of pear trees all GPT 07 and yellow plum-like treesI think RR should be routed through this option. Many people The trail is in good condition. From Los Sauces ,there are not many cars (first congratulations to other people seenhavong been lucky). We made camp Luckily there are buses at the river before the pass 7 and 10 in themornong to San Fabian. The second bus goes back at two. I thinknon Sundays itnisnall shifted by one hour (Mirador del valle del venadoso it leaves an hiur later) but the walk I am not sure. There is signal from the CONAF camp until then was slower than expected because it was along a river bed with confusing trackslast bridge but there is no cell cig al in Los Sauces.
Day 10.
Good trail * 2022-Dec-26 to 2022-Dec-31 / 6 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Will El Médano - Puente Inglés I had a tougher time than expected on this section, but overall still a good experience. My pace ended up and down from Mirador del valle del venado similar to section 6, at times slower but with lots the occasional fast road to make up for it. I spent a lot of water time trying to keep my feet dry but they always just ended up getting wet anyway, I had a bunch of blisters by the end of day two. My main advice just be to accept it and trees for shadejust trudge straight through the waterlogged pastures. Took us almost half Meeting the arrieros/settlers along the way was one of the highlights. No one seemed to mind me passing through their country. Most of the time we thought 'd just wave, and sometimes they'd call out and chat for a bit. They had some amazing yells. There was no one at the shop in Carrizales when I passed through at 4:30, but I did manage to get a fanta and some great goat cheese later from Irma. The cheese lasted well through a day and a half of hiking in the heat. 500g was the least she'd sell, so I just ate a bunch of it would takewith chips for my last few meals. Everyone I passed told me about another pair of hikers doing the same route, but a day ahead of me. I never caught up with them, but I know their footprints well. The horseflies were really swarming on some stretches, they made a few nights and lunch breaks pretty uncomfortable. Note But I found that you cannot actually camp if I just kept walking I'd normally find a bug free spot within an hour or so. I never figured out how to predict where I'd find them. There were generally more at campsiteslower altitude and sheltered places, with lots of exceptions. The fords were all easy for me, the highest came up to my thighs (I'm 5'11/restong areas 180cm). I spent the first night at El Médano. They didn't have a midday bus from Talca, the earliest I could go was at 3pm. The vapores were great, but a little hard to find. Pretty much empty at 6pm. The next morning I hitched easily to the start. I decided to start hiking on this trail the other side of the river where I got dropped off, and then ford further down after the Miradorbuilding. I luckily caught a ride from some carabineros pretty early along the road walk at the end, who took me straight to San Fabián. Overall a great hike. Doing it in five walking days was reasonable, but felt a bit rushed for me. The CONAF guards asked second half was definitely more enjoyable for me. If I could go back in time I'd probably hitch a bit further to the Laguna del Maule and do one of the options starting from there. * 2022-Dec-17 to 2022-Dec-23 / 7 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Anna & Christopher El Médano - Puente Inglés We started by hitchhiking to the beginning of the dirtroad (11 km from El Médano). At about 7:30 am on a saturday we got a ride within a minute :)As Veronica wrote there is a closed gate, but you can walk around it. We met a local living there and he greeted us where niceley, so it seems to be no problem.The next day we arrived in Carrizales around 4 pm. We resupplied there (the shop has a modest selection). The almacén is basically at the owners house, so one can propably buy sth there pretty late or early in the day. Plus the owner is super nice. She even offered us some fruits and vegetables for free and allowed us to camp opposite her house. The first river crossing was the hardest for us. Anna is 1,63 m and the water reached above her hips. The other two rivers were coming from pretty easy to cross. From Puente Inglés we hitchhiked to San Fabián. There is also a bus once a day which leaves at 10 am. Section 7 is really nice with beautiful views and a very diverse landscape. It gets really hot in the afternoon though. * 2022-Dec-07 to 2022-Dec-12 / 5.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Véronica Route: El Médano - Carrizales - Río Guaiquivillo - Laguna Dial - Río González - Puente Inglés A wonderful stretch of the GPT, I especially enjoyed the second half of it. Decent trails, except when we said they go into cow pastures or traverse some sandy/scree cliffs where erosion has taken place. Lots of great swimming opportunities, which is good because the midday/afternoon heat gets quite oppresive. Some demanding river fords this time of year. The ones that stand out as being particularly difficult are 1: the one after the first pass after Carrizales, 2: Río Guaiquivillo (downright scary), 3: Río Paralelo before Laguna del Maule he just sounded impressed Dial (although not so bad after experiencing Guaiquivillo) Took the bus from Talca back to El Médano at 3 pm. The "vapores" at El Médano are awesome, and let us free if you stay at the nearby campground. When I went three next morning at 9 a.m. there was nobody there and I got to try out and enjoy the three different saunas. Hitching the 11km along the paved road is pretty easy, but few cars go on our wayby. There was no one at the gate/fence when I arrived, easy to go around by following the river a decent restaurant with empanadasfew hundred meters. At the last cross-country section before Carrizales, beer ext I recommend taking the northern Option D route, as the RR takes you straight into a muddy, flooded cow pasture, and the drier mountainside is covered in pesky, sharp/thorny yellow flowers which will tear through your legs. The northern route has to be better than that! The fences before Carrizales start near the bus stop junction where Option H ends, but I found lots of accessible water sources and decent campsites even along the fenced section. There The best one was less than a posted schedule km after the last "settler" waypoint before Carrizales, with lots of shade, grass, and mature trees to the bus right of the trail. The hot springs after Carrizales are definitely worth the detour! They are properly hot, and right next to a beautiful, cool creek. I'm 165 cm and Río Guaiquivillo was one of, if not the most, demanding ford I've ever done. I went upstream a couple hundred meters from where the RR crosses it, where the river braids into two channels and is wider. The current was fast in the first channel, making little rapids over the rocks, but the water only went midway up my thighs. The second channel the water went up to my hips and nearly swept me downstream. Maybe look for a better place downstream to cross the second channel once you reach the island after the first channel. After the river crossing, follow the 4×4 path, not necessarily the GPS RR track. The GPS will try to lead you into knee-deep boggy pastures, but if you follow the 4×4 trail it clearly did should (mostly) stay dry. The carabineros at the police puesto took down my passport info and asked when I'd be returning from Laguna Dial. I explained I was continuing onward to Puente Inglés and wouldn't be coming back. Between the police puesto and Río Los Sauces, I only saw 2 people (arrieros), and not a soul at Laguna Dial. Must be a quieter time of year. Laguna Dial is amazing - clear, cold, deep waters perfect for swimming. The trail from the west end of Laguna Dial all the way to the last bridge before Puente Inglés is awesome - clear and easy to follow this schedule so if . The stretch along Río González was probably my favorite part, as you are there just ask in frequent forests going along a steep-walled canyon. Plus the many locals around what time fords along that river were not difficult :) I got offered a ride once I was midway through the bus comeshot, we caught dusty road walk to Puente Inglés, and they took me straight through to San Fabian. So I can't comment on the 1230 busschedule.
Great trip, beautiful views and details and just the right amount of challenge.
==Season 2021/22==
* 2022-Feb-28 to 2022-Mar-06 / 7 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR / Carlos
There is now a locked gate to acces the dirt road from/to Road 115 CH at the power station building. I was told it wasn't allowed to enter and was asked how I had got in (going Northbound it was the end of my hike). I explained I was coming from Carrizales on a trail and they opened the gate for me.
It was a Sunday and oddly enough the guards just happened to be crossing the gate in a pick up just at the very moment I arrived, so couldn't find out if the station is manned during the week.
As It was quite obvious they were not happy at all me being there I couldn't scout the place to find a way around but it looked quite possible to walk around the fence, either towards the slope or next to the river. Although if you want to enter (hiking Southbound) and there is a guard at the gate you might be turn around.
*2022-Feb-06 / 8 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR / Molly and Melissa
Generally an easy trail, but tough due to the heat and the heavy pack. Plenty of water despite the dry landscape. Not many panoramic views - instead the attraction consists of meeting the many arrieros and walking through the land where they live.
We arrived by bus at El Inglés at 3:30 pm and started walking down the very hot, dry gravel road. Lots of places along the river seems great for camping/swimming. After walking a little, a car offered us a ride and dropped us off right before the first bridge. We wanted to camp at the first "hot spring?" waypoint, but there seemed to be no hot springs. From there, a nice path all the way to Laguna Dial. We ended up camping at the second camp waypoint, very nice place for a swim - which was very needed after a very hot day. The first camp waypoint has a puesto as well.
We passed the police, they were very excited to have visitors and served us soda and biscuits. We camped at the next ford near a big willow. There is a campsite that seems to be used by the arrieros, but not while we were there.
Irma's daughter sold us some of their cheese. They had goat and cow cheese, 1.5 L colas, beer, wine and sopaipillas. Irma wasn't home. Initially we were chased off by a pretty scary dog, but we were able to approach once some horseback riders appeared and people in the puesto came out and could shout at the dogs.
After her puesto, we had some trouble finding the right path - the route kept leading off the gravel road with no path in sight. In the end, we just followed the gravel road, returning to the regular route just before the climb at the second "hot springs?" waypoint. This required a river crossing that was a little difficult even in this dry year.
Pretty easy walk the rest of the way to Carrizales on a gravel road. We found many delicious brambles along the road.
The shop in Carrizales had pasta, canned tuna, cakes, many different biscuits, popsicles, chips, bread, sodas, marmelade, harina tostada, batteries, caramels. The town itself consisted of a few houses and an avanzada de carabineros. As mentioned, some fences after the town. We camped at the next "ford" waypoint, on a nice meadow next to the river.
On the next cross country section, better stick to the route along the mountain side - the whole valley is very wet, and there's often a path to follow along the route. Many animals and puestos all the way up the mountain.
We camped at the camp/ford waypoint after reaching the last gravel road. A lot of garbage, but we found a nice little place and even caught a trout.
The main road is pretty big, probably easy to hitch, but goes through some pretty mountains as well.
Termas el Medano is a nice place as well, there is a big hot pool (with some cold currents in-between) and some smaller lukewarm ones, and you can swim in the river. The entrance is 1000 pesos, but if you camp at the nearby campground (3000 pesos per person), acces is free. There is also a minishop with sodas, chocolate, chips, sunscreen and a few other things, and a restaurant with typical Chilean food. The bus leaves for Talca at 7:10 in front of the parking lot, but you have to call in advance as it only goes that far if they know someone is going - +56994741961.
* 2022-Jan-17 to 2022-Jan-24 / 8 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Veronika & Jo
Termas El Médano -> Carrizales (2 days) -> Rio Maule -> Laguna del Dial -> El Inglés (3 days)
Greatly enjoyed this section, which took us seven proper hiking days to complete.
We started at 19:00 at Termas El Médano because the only bus at Talca left at 15:00. Hiked the 11 km of tarmac and camped on the river bank next to 115, about 1 km beyond section 1 (S 35° 52.736', W 070° 40.119', courtesy of iOverlander).
At the end of the third section (around S 35° 57.665', W 070° 38.836') we could not find the path on the northern scree and rock slopes. Instead, we switched to the southern valley flank about a hundred meters before the actual switch, fording the small stream easily and following cow trails until we were back on the path. Found a decent camp site (S 35° 52.736', W 070° 40.119') after the first puesto on the mountain plains.
From about 10 km before Carrizales, all water and accompanying meadows are fenced in. If you plan to camp before Carrizales, turn back the moment you see fences appear on the side of the road. At the end of a long day, we asked the shop owner in Carrizales if she knew a good spot, and she let us camp on one of their fields (with accompanying barking dogs ;). Still, muchas gracias!
The hot springs after Carrizales were the best so far and definitely worth the detour. Señora Irma sold us fresh cheese, tomatoes, bread and coke, even though we happened upon her puesto in the middle of celebrating January 20th - either in the honor of San Sebastian or a victory in the war between Chile and Peru-Bolivia - with friends and family. Thanks again!
Laguna del Dial was gorgeous and great to swim in. We camped right at the start of the lake (S 36° 25.533', W 070° 55.101') where the water had sufficiently retreated to leave room for one tent. After the lake, we had the impression of taking an arriero highway, encountering plenty of horseback riders, most of them arrieros. For us, it was often hard to understand their dialect, given that we're very novice Spanish speakers. Still, got to see a glimpse of the way these modern day cowboys live.
The first bridge you encounter (sobo, around S 36° 33.547', W 071° 10.798') is rickety and unusable. Hence the second smaller bridge a bit further upstream, which I only found out about after fording the river :D
The bus at El Inglés to San Fabián left at 7:00 and 10:00 in the morning. At the bridge, the river bank opposite to the shop has some smaller streams pouring into the river, making this the relatively nicer side to camp (though there's plenty of garbage on both sides, despite the signs requesting not to litter). Some Chilean campers showed us the streams, thanks once again!
In San Fabián, stayed at Cabañas Anfer Domos for 35.000 CLP per night for two. Cabañas Nativas and Hostal El Molino were both full.
==Season 2019/20==
* 2019-Dec-30 / 6 days / Hiking / SOBO / Ian Hikes + Tobias
Overview:
Just want to say quick that the termas vapaors in Mèdano are worth checking out, I highly recommend them. Please consider checking them out, they are only ½ km off the trail and absolutely worth it. They are sauna boxes built around a few hot rocks emitting hot steam. The result is a steam room/ sauna experience. I personally spend over 4 hours chilling out in the steam rooms.
After a 2-hour road walk on the side of the highway you make your way back on trial. This section takes you thru many areas used for grazing livestock with puestos in sight almost all the time. Carizales a small settlement right on trail has a small store and the family also sells bread. There was also a puesto that sold us fresh goat cheese and Coca Cola. It is marked as a waypoint on the GPX file about 20km south of Carizales. Much of the trail is very dry and exposed and the landscape is void of trees and vegetation. There are many great places to jump into the river and cool off. The section up and around the lake offers great views of the mountains, volcanoes nearby and Laguna Dial. The trail itself is well established and never had any real trouble navigation. There were also quite a few hot springs on trail or close by.
Difficulties: Hot and Exposed (especially in summertime). Resupply Distance.
Highlights: Hot springs. Great sweeping views. Pools of cool water to jump into in the middle of the day.
Please feel free to reach out and ask me any questions at Ultratrailca@gmail.com
*2020-Jan-17 / 7.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Bruno and Martin
7.5 days for this great section. We resupplied in el Médano and continued with the section. Just enough variety. Highly recomend eating harina tostada, a vital meal for the arrieros, nutritious and practical. Be minded tha in our camping ground in El Médano there were only three hours of electricity a day, may be hard to recharge. Regular trail was easy to follow, except on mountain pastures where is also likely to get your feet wet. Bought some food in Carrizales. Passed through the welcoming puesto of señora Irma for some eggs, bread and cheese. Irma te manda saludos Jan! Laguna Dial is amazing and we stayed one day fishing, resting and swiming in Lake Camp -2. We were invited for some mate and tortas by a local arriero.The Rio Gonzalez valley is a complete change of scenery, with forests which we enjoyed very much. Resupplying in San Fabián.
After talking with the carabineros in San Fabián, we were told that we would not be allowed to pass through the RR near Volcán Chillán, in the last comisaria in El Roble, due to current volcanic risk. Trying instead an optional start further south, in Termas de Chillán. Maybe for next hikers it would be ok, but better to ask anyway.
*2020-Jan-3 / 5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Maddie & Tom
Starting at El Medano, hiking the regular route southbound towards El Ingles.
11km in we encountered a gate to get onto the trail with private property signs. However no one was there so we walked in without difficulty by walking around the fence (it was late Christmas Day however so it could have been quiter than normal). In general a nice route however when the track descends into cow pastures it gets very boggy and the track sometimes disappears. We did not think there were any dangerous spots.
To resupply at the end of the section we took a bus in the morning from Los Sauces (10am) to San Fabian. We caught the same bus back at 1pm. Great selection of cheap food in the local ‘mountain’ supermarket and overall a good town for resupply options. It had methylated spirits for cooking but the bottle did not state the concentration. I suspect around 70%.
* 2019-Dec-29/ 8 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR with optional start at Cruze de Melano / Tyler & America
We took our sweet time through this section. The optional start helped...as we were able to hitch all the way up to the RR at Carizales. (Bus from Talca @3, 2000 CP each) Hot springs near Carizales were warm & awesome. Two nice little tubs. We took our time and had a great time with all the arrieros along the way. Irma sells beer, wine, and delicious cheese. Other arrieros will welcome you in and treat you like family as well...so be sure to leave them with whatever you feel fit in return. All river crossings good, be diligent on filtering throughout this entire section. Dog at El Ingles shop bit me, so be careful with that. We camped down by the river for free. Bus leaves at 7:00 and 10:00 to San Fabian, and amazingly friendly town. We got a 1 bed Cabin at Cabanas Nativa for 30,000/N total. Pool, private bath & kitchen, ok WiFi, welcoming people. Fine town for re supply.
* 2019-Dec-18 / 4 days / Hiking / Optional/Exploration Route around Laguna del Maule / Lea Geibel & Kevin Moe
After finishing section 5 we only had 4 days left before the end of our hiking time, so we decided to do some exploring in the area instead of following the regular route of section 7. We followed the main road to the Laguna del Maule where we roughly went in a loop around the Laguna (~60km) starting at the Chilean Border Control. We checked in with the border control and informed them about our plans (that involved to not cross into Argentina but stay in Chile, just behind the Border Control). It was no problem for them, we just had to go through the Border Control again on our way back to have our backpacks checked for food. The water level of the laguna is very low and walking along the shore is mostly easy travel on sand/pumice, however, sometimes can be rather rocky and tedious. We climbed up some of the 3000 meter peaks around the Laguna (that mark the border with Argentina), each of them offering beautiful views on the area. There are several beautiful hidden lagunas higher up in glaciers that are well worth exploring. We never followed any particular route but just headed cross country to whichever place we fancied, which is very easy in the open, sandy terrain. The Southern end of the Laguna has many flamingos living in it, the East shore is mostly untouched by humans and the east side has some puestos and fishermen (mostly on weekends and close to the roads) but we didn't see anyone around. Around the Laguna there is a very strong thermal wind that picks up during the day but dies down/weakens a lot during the nights.
Highlights: all the views, swimming in laguna, lava fields flowing into the laguna, flamingos, numerous obsidian fields, empanadas de queso at the bistro right next to the border control (only open on weekends)
*2019-Dec-24 / 7 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Martina & Ivo
7 days for this awesome section. Absolutely agree with all of Matus & Anna's remarks :-) We went to San Fabian (excellent resupply place) for some days off.
*2019-Dec-24 / 5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Matus & Anna
Trail was in good conditon.
River crossings were not a problem but plenty of water everywhere.
In tienda in Carizales you can buy pasta, tuna, cola, beer some cookies.
We bought huge chunk of cheese and some bread from Irma. It was amazing.
Tienda in El Ingles is not best for resupply. We saw some tunas and pasta, but it was not enough for us to buy for next section. There is one more tienda down the road in Los Sauces but it was closed with no one around.
We took bus to San Carlos which is leaving at 7am.
We didn't find accomodation in El Ingles but it's possible to camp just before the bridge on the right side of the road.
* 2020-Feb-07 / 6 days / Hiking / SOBO / Arnaud
Great section, easy to walk, nice people met on the way.
After 11km, we leave the road with a minor road in a private property (zona geotermica). After discussion with the guard, he let us pass by the rio, and not by the porton (to join the road 400m further) because the access on the road is prohibited... ;-)
Then the uphill is easy until the top.
Possible resupply in Carizales with elia, whose welcome with half a sandia was perfect (pasta, atun, frutas y verduras, harina tostada but no gas).
Laguna del Dial is great to have some rest. Don't hesitate to plan to spend some time there. It seems to be a good spot to fish.
With the state of the volcan chillan, we decided to skip the section 8 and have some rest in San Fabian.
From los Sauces to San Fabian, the micro leaves at 11pm only.
We stayed by the Anfer Domos of Edgardo Lopez (+56 9 630 91 627), which is a great place to have some rest (a little far from the centre (1km), but he lends bikes if necessary), cabañas Nativa were full.
* 2020-Jan-12 / 5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Frank
No access problem as you leave main road @ KM11, just go left around the fenced area & you will find a small track that leads up to the dirt road. Termas El Medano is last stop for bus but you can hitch first 11K. Don't expect much from shop in Carizales, contents listed by Matus are all she has. Irma, about a 1 day walk beyond Carizales has cheese, drinks in 2L bottles & sometimes bread. At Puesto 9 before Puesto Irma, fresh cold water comes up from the ground into a small pool, safe to drink without filtering. There is an arreiro living there so talk to him first. Very hot in Guaiquivilo Valley & as you go round Laguna Dial. Little shade in the valley & virtually none @ Laguna Dial. Spectacular trail down canyon on last day. You cross the river 8 times. Dogs @ Puente Ingles shop attacked me & if I didn't have a stick would have been bitten also. Camped down by Puente Ingles bridge but it's noisy on weekends & lots of horseflies. 2 buses out from Puente Ingles around 7 & 7:50AM
==Season 2018/19==
=Resupply and Accommodation=
*El Médano
Termas el Medano is a nice place as well, there is a big hot pool (with some cold currents in-between) and some smaller lukewarm ones, and you can swim in the river. The entrance is 1000 pesos, but if you camp at the nearby campground (3000 pesos per person), acces is free. There is also a minishop with sodas, chocolate, chips, sunscreen and a few other things - maybe some bread and flour, but nothing else for resupplying. There's also a restaurant with typical Chilean food, it was very busy when we were there but they do take away as well. The bus leaves for Talca at 7:10 in front of the parking lot, but you have to call in advance as it only goes that far if they know someone is going - +56994741961 - many others went when we were there, though.
==Resupply and Accommodation in nearby Towns==
=Transport to and from Route=
*Bus Talca - Termas El Medano
07:00, 12:30,15:00, 18:45
from Terminal Talca
*Bus Termas el Médano - Talca
The bus leaves for Talca at 7:10 am at the bus shed in front of the parking lot, but you have to call in advance as it only goes that far if they know someone is going - +56994741961. Otherwise it leaves from La Mina at 7 am
*Bus from Puente Ingles around 7 & 10AM. Confirm times @ the shop. Bus back from San Fabián at 2 and 6 pm
=Permits, Entry Fees and Right-of-Way Issues=
