GPT27H (Lago Palena)

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Summary with remarks to route that are considered useful for other hikers and packrafters. Include alerts, suggestions and personal perception of attractiveness and difficulties.

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Section Log, Alerts and Suggestions

Season 2023/24

• 2024-Feb-15 to 2024-Feb-20 / 5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR - {27-E} - RR / Lilian

Just like Quentin Clavel said,

"If you love wilderness, you will love this section !"

Lot of blowdowns and river crossing at this section, but you have lot of solutions to solve the blowdowns, also river crossing already not a problem at late season, so just enjoy the nature here!

It is the most bird(lot of hummerbird!) I seen from GPT01 to here so far, and i heard some screaming in the midnight, sounds like cats fighting 3 times in 2 nights! I think the most amazing part is lot of beetles, maybe more than thousands, shinning blue, shinning red, shinning brown at the trees crawling, finding others then fighting, push them out to defend their sweet spot! Also black mix golden colours shrimp swimming in the river if you willing stop to take a look!

I took some hours just sit beside some trees and observe beetles fighting, and one of them lose in the fight then drop on my head haha :D

Beautiful water + rainforest + animals = GPT27

The trail from north to Lago Palena til lake inlet and from south to Ford,camp[62.9/883], i think are still maintained by some people, i saw sticks is cut by machete not long time ago, some still with fresh green leaves.

Km0 - km16.5 : hot dirt road, nothing special, recommend hitch as many if you can.

Km6.05 : tiny shop(-43.65140, -71.83734), the last shop before you go in the wild, it was closed when i was there.

Km17.5 : flat spots for camping.(-43.73746, -71.80946)

Ford[26.8/520] : first time of crossing Río Azul. Downstream 10m have rock bar underwater, mostly about half of calf, just 2-3m in the middle part is below knee, running fast but easy crossing. The water and valley views is beautiful here.

Ford[28.2/576] : crossing of Río Azul again. Go in the water at crossing point, go upstream 10m then cross it. About knee deep, this one is a little difficult than the previous one, but still easy at late season.

I didn't follow RR after km29.7 where the trail met the beach, because the trail looks a little overgrown, i just CC on the beach and crossing the river multiple times to upstream and rejoin RR at km30.9. I really enjoyed the moment walking beside and walking in the beautiful river under the hot sun. Also i find that there is lot of shrimp in the river, they are black and golden colours!

Km30.95 : gate.

Km31.15 : Puesto at the left side.

Km31.7 : after RR met a stream, i didn't follow RR again, just CC beside the stream, sometimes follow cow paths, sometimes just go by myself. Then i find a refuge at (-43.83791, -71.86699). It is unlocked and in good condition, 2 beds inside, 1 with mattress and 1 without, the one without mattress looks cleaner. I think it can use in bad weather. There is also a side trail from refuge to the viewpoint(-43.83872, -71.86624) of waterfall, easy to follow.

If you don't want to turn all the way back down to RR after taking a look of waterfall, there is a trail(-43.84021, -71.86632) at the right side of waterfall can go around it and climbing up. It is an old trail but still clear and easy to follow and walk. After climbing up it leads to SW, i followed it about 20min and it looks like going in the forest at south, lots of blowdowns inside the forest so i turned back to the trail and CC then cross the gulch at (-43.84181, -71.86414), easy crossing at here, just walking. After crossing, it is already very close to the trail that starts climbing up.

If you have a good weather, camping beside the lake(-43.86513, -71.86458) before the pass[37.1/1367] is great and beautiful.

From the pass[37.1/1367] to camp[38.0/1279], it's not CC, you can follow a trail until the grassland.

Quentin Clavel said hard part is start at km39, km39 is a blowdowns combination but just about 20m then easy walk again, some blowdowns and some overgrown but in an easy condition mostly just take you 2 second to step over them. The really hard part is not here.

Km39.65 : Camping spot no.35 at (-43.87829, -71.86105), can fit 2-3 tents with fire ring and log seats. There is a small stream flowing and a gate(-43.87819, -71.86119) with barbed wire after the spot.

Km40.3 : flat spot can fit 1 tent with a fire pit before you go down the rocky beach. The trail that go down to beach is washed away, looks like because of a huge fallen tree.( You'll understand what I mean when you are there.)

Km40.67 : excellent viewpoint(-43.88151, -71.87072) of the lake on a rocky beach. Also a nice breakfast and lunch spot. But no camping spot here(not flat).

Km40.75 : flat spot(-43.88191, -71.87150) can fit 1 tent with an old fire ring.

Km42.8 : 2 nice camping spots(-43.88981, -71.88147) can total fit 4-6 tents with fire ring and log seats, also with beautiful lake views.

I crossed the lake inlet at (-43.89053, -71.88207), below hip and a sand bar underwater, easy crossing because water nearly no flowing. Then rejoin the trail at (-43.89066, -71.88310).

Km43.2 : camping spot(-43.89231, -71.88335) can fit 2-4 tents with fire ring and log seats.

Then, GAME STARTS.

Lot of blowdowns blocks the way until refuge?[45.7/974] (no refuge there). Not really difficult, because you can go around or climb over or try to find side trail here, lot of solutions to solve, but much much slow down.

First of all, join the trail at (-43.89307, -71.88426), no more trail at the pud.

Refuge?[45.7/974] : no refuge, no camping spot, just an old bridge left.

From here, trail becomes smooth, still some blowdowns, but just easy and happy walking.

Camp[48.3/1057] : a tiny stream is flowing before you going out to grassland.

Km49 : walking on a broken log for crossing the small stream.

Water[51.3/971] : dry.

Refuge,park ranger[52.1/947] : 6 cabins here, all of them are good condition, and 2 of them can be used for overnight, others are lot of dead birds, have bee hives inside, is a toilet and stored full of things. Looks abandoned for 10 years, because i found a calendar that hanging in there is 2013. There is a side trail leads you to Lago Río Corto, it is beautiful, don't miss it!

Cross the lake outlet after refuge, up to knee in clear water. Trail become more blowdowns and overgrown after crossing.

From ford[56.0/943] to ford[56.6/928], you need to cross the same stream 11 times, all are easy crossing but wet feet, also the stream is milky.

Km56.57 : old camping spot with an old fire pit, can fit 1 tent, but i recommend the next spot.

Nice flat spot (-43.95887, -71.83283) can fit 1-2 tents at km56.83, 3 sides surrounded by small trees, good wind protection, also easy to collect water. But you need to take 5 minutes clear out some stones.

After 11 times crossing, trail becomes easy walk again.

Km58.15 : a huge rock, and a huge, tall tree growing on the rock! What amazing nature!

Km58.3 : lot of blowdowns again.

Km59.25 : trail junction(-43.96833, -71.85480), the clear trail going straight is not RR, it looks like going to the lake at west(i walked it a little because i missed the junction). Sobo turn left here, but the trail is very confused, not easy to follow and sometimes no more trail until camp[60.0/894]. It is not a good camping spot, can fit 1 tent with log seats and fire pit, also beside a flowing water but surrounded by lot of fresh cow poops, they also put their poops on the log seats.(It is cow's party spot) After here the trail will be better some moments, then confused again until next river crossing.

Ford[60.6/887] : you need to cross side stream and main river(Río Claro) at here. Both are milky water. First for side stream, go down to water at crossing point(-43.97678, -71.85529),a little muddy but fine, then 5m downstream step on the rock bar to the other side, just below knee. No need to climb up to other side immediately, turn right to main river in the water, go around the corner on sand bar, then cross the main river on another rock bar, knee deep but easy. When you get to the other side(-43.97729, -71.85489) of main river, an old conaf post there, then trail becomes easy condition. Can fit 1 tent on a spot after crossing but i recommend the next spot.

Km61.35: camping spot(-43.98247, -71.85335) can fit 1 tent with fire pit, after crossing a small stream with clear water. And no more sharp turning like GPX track here, it just going straight now.

Km61.7 : log gate. Yes log gate, not locked gate, it is a gate putting lot of huge logs blocked the way. Remove the log maybe take 10min, so climb over it.

From km61.8 to ford,camp[62.9/883], you walking beside 2 beautiful lake, sometimes very close to lake, or step on some rocks at the shore of lake, but never need to walk in the water at now as late season. No camping spot until ford,camp[62.9/883].

Ford,camp[62.9/883] : i crossed it at the point(-43.99268, -71.84577) that Quentin Clavel said, "that's the place where the lake begins to be a river, and there were no current". Up to hip and no flowing, wet my shorts but easy. You can stand on some huge blowdowns laid on the shore to observe your crossing route.

After the crossing, a camping spot with old fire ring there, but the spot is crashed by lot of blowdowns, so i cleared out some area here that can fit 1 tent now, and rebuild the fire ring and new log seats too. Hope you also enjoy the lovely fire after the deep crossing.(i crossed it just before dark!)

Easy walking until km65.5, then some blowdowns, muddy, and some overgrown.

Km65.77 : camping spot(-44.01372, -71.84370) can fit 1 tent, also can access to water at here. Looks like someone camped at here not long time ago.

Ford[67.3/829] & ford[67.4/827] : double crossing of Río Claro, flowing fast and up to knee. Some rocks are slippery here, be careful.

Ford[67.9/806] : flowing fast and up to knee, after the crossing, there's a small log bridge on the ground without any usefulness, what can i say...?

Camp[68.0/809] : looks like it is a camping spot made by puerto, have a full wooden bracket and some huge plastic cloths for making a shelter. Can fit 1 tent with fire pit.

Then steep climbing up on some soft mud, i think it will be super slippery if they get wet.

After you climb up, trail with some blowdowns, some overgrown and muddy.

Km69.55 : maze area, lot of blowdowns, lot of side trail, and lot of cutting sign, made me confused for some moments here.

Km70.1 : a stream (-44.04320, -71.84817) flowing nice with clear water, a small camping spot can fit 1 single person tent with fire ring after the crossing. Dry feet crossing by rock hopping.

From here to km72.5, is the most tired part for me, some blowdowns + some overgrown + some muddy + neverending pud, OMG.

Water[71.3/874] : Arroyo El Reloj, beautiful waterfall, no camping spot here.

Km72.1 : refuge in ok condition, maybe can use in bad weather. Soil ground and not flat, so i think you wouldn't like to stay inside. No camping spot nearby.

After km72.5, all the way going down, trail sometimes walk in wet and muddy gulch, but when you get lower, trail condition will become better and better.

Refuge[75.5/385] : good condition with fire ring inside. Large flat area outside beside refuge, can fit 4-6 tents with fire ring and log seats. {27H-02}'s trail looks clear and easy to follow at here.

Ford[75.6/375] : the last crossing of Río Claro, also the strongest one. I crossed at here(-44.07080, -71.87756), upstream of GPX track where the river start dropping down, looks like is the shalloest part at this crossing. Huge rock bar underwater. Flowing strong and above knee, a little challenge but still easy crossing, rock bar's rocks are huge size and stable, so I just walking and use the rocks for balance that push back the force from current.

After the crossing, trail becomes very overgrown about 300m, then easy walking start.

Km76.0 : camping spot(-44.07286, -71.87476) can fit 2-3 tents with fire ring and log seats.

Trail south of here, mostly are super easy walking, but sometimes make me confused, because it turning and turning, turning and turning, easy to lost the trail.

Km76.7 : board walking and gate.

Gate[83.0/447] : dirt road walking start, super easy going and all the way dry feet.

Water[86.0/419] : flowing low with clear water, nice grassland can fit lot of tents with views 100m before the crossing, but no wind protection.

X[90.2/543] : i missed this junction and walked all the way dirt road.

Bridge[95.0/318] : cross Río Pico on a large bridge, huge flat area with some small trees and brushes after the crossing, looks like upstream is better and i find at least 3 fire ring there. It is the last good camping spot before Lago Verde.

About Lago Verde,

Bus schedule:

Lago Verde - Coyhaique(Thursday 8am, Sunday 12noon), Lago Verde - La Junta(Wednesday 8am, return at 3pm), Coyhaique - Lago Verde(Tuesday and Friday 2pm)

Need advance booking, you can call or whatsapp Blanca Jara +56 9 94738219, and "Lago Verde - La Junta" is 2000 CLP.

Shop1 (-44.24083, -71.84950), lot of food selection and good stock, can full resupply here, but no gas canisters.

Shop2 (-44.24068, -71.85035), Nina's shop, small one, you can ask accommodation here, stay in her home for 18k CLP, single room with wifi, hot shower(with towel), a light dinner(not enough for hiker hunger) and you can use her kitchen. Super friendly family, highly recommended!

Both shops can use credit card.

Tourist information center(-44.24046, -71.84983), some super friendly staff there, in some conversations looks like they want to maintain the trail from Lago Verde to Lago Palena.

Bus stops at (-44.24035, -71.85012).

From 2024-02-05 to 2024-02-08 // 4 days // Hiking // NOBO // RR // Quentin Clavel

If you love wilderness, you will love this section !

That was a pretty demanding one, very remote, deep into rainforest, lots of river crossing, and even more challenging if you've got bad weather, because all the fallen trees (and there's a looooooot) are slippery.

It begins pretty well from Lago Verde. More you advance and more the trail is challenging. From big gravel road, to as small one, to visible track, to kind of complicated one sometimes to follow.

GPS has been checked numerous of time on that stretch.

The hard part is from PK 71 (after the end of the way up) to KM 39. That's a festival of fallen trees and river crossings (even sometimes not river crossing but you have to follow the lake, but as there.s no trail or it's a tuff bush bashing because of the fallen trees, so you follow the lake, in the lake aha, but it's not swimming don't worry, still at knees level). Anyway, prepare yourself to a very low pace.

At this time of the year no troubles with the rivers crossing. The highest one was PK62,95 (hip level, but that's the place where the lake begins to be a river, and there were no current). Strongest one was the crossing of Rio Azul PK 26,88, but it was late on afternoon, and still doable if you go slowly but surely.

Aftet PK 39, you'll get up from the shore, and find a more visible track to follow (it would give you the impression of an avenue compare to the last 30 kilometers !).

I bush bashed to avoid the double crossing of Rio Azul after PK30. Made it but I'll not recommend to do it. That was a tuff and strong fight with the bush, and not sure that I can say I won.

I met no one except two kind and nice settlers on the road that invite me to share a moment, more than welcome. Karl and his family PK 90,84 and Roberto in his lovely puesto near KM 19.

I really loved that wild section, the rainforest is amazing, all the flora there is incredible, it's just you and the nature, you'll say that most of the sections of GPT are like that. But here's a little bit more than usual.

Season 2022/23

• General Recommendation: the critical point (the crux of the section) is the ford of Rio Claro/Quinto. This river crossing not too far from the southern start Lago Verde. Therefore it is highly recommended to go northbound and attempt this section after most of the snow is molten and without heavy rains predicted. If you walk southbound and can't cross Rio Claro or Rio Quinto you face a long & rough walk back.

• 2023-Mar-10 to 2023-Mar-14 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Martin & Helena

Quite challenging section, especially in cold and rainy days we had. The trail around Lago Palena is not very well maintained and hundreds of fallen trees are making hiking there pretty difficult. Expect rather more hiking hours to finish the section than what is in manual.

After some road walking from Palena we took the trail in western valley that 2 arrieros confirmed to be in good condition (but they said the same about the whole trail to Lago Verde). Trail is easy to follow, but with quite demanding fords if the conditions are not good. Especially the double crossing of Rio Azul after km 30 gave us hard time, caused mainly by our bad judgment - after light but all afternoon rain we tried to cross the river for the first time, not so far from the official trail, but more on the right, downstream. The current was not that strong, but water was above our waist, and slippery stones made it difficult to move with enough stability. We made it to the other side, but couldn’t find a suitable spot for the second crossing where the water was even deeper. Fording rivers one by one didn’t look safe because of a strong current in the first one, so we tried to return, but the water moved even higher making the ford too dangerous, so we had to stay and camp in between. In the morning we woke up to a sunny day and forded without problem. We met settler from the last puesto before ascent and he told us camping there is possible.

We didn’t have any problem with the rest of the way to the lake, but from there it becomes difficult to continue because of all the fallen trees. Often there is a visible way around, but sometimes you have to improvise and even go over. Expect slow pace. Refuge km 45.7 is not there. We camped at km 48.3 where is a big field without trees. CONAF refuges are there, possible to stay inside, but we would be careful with mice. Fords section from km 56 had just a little of water - no problem. Trail around lake / Rio Claro from km 62 will take you a few times to the water close to the shore, but nothing difficult. We made the last ford at km 62.9 in the widest point, where the water was calm, aprox. to our waist, and with quite stable surface from some vegetation which was safe to walk on.

We continued again very slowly on sometimes very wet and muddy trail. Following fords were not a problem for us, even when the water was fast, it was not above our knees. We camped around km 70 in the forrest where we didn’t feel completely comfortable, but with favorable wind forecast we decided to stay. Refugio km 75.5 is standing, can provide a good shelter in bad weather conditions. The rest of the trail was without any problem, especially the last 20 kms where you join a MR leading to Lago Verde. We finished this section very exhausted and found it to be really a tough one. Good to count with more days / food because of sometimes slow progress and possibly difficult river crossings.

Contact: @martin_hanzelka @helenneka

• 2023-Feb-21 / 4 days / NOBO / RR / Frank

19KM on small road from Lago Verde, then you reach a settler's house. Go round the house to right, handrailing a wooden fence. RR goes in on a small trail, a bit overgrown with lots of fallen trees & muddy most of the way to Lago Palena. About 40KM from the settler's house to Lago Palena, average speed 2KMPH. The crux crossing is the first one on Rio Claro/Quinto NOBO. If you can cross it all crossings should be OK. It was a little under waist deep when I crossed, late in season & weather had been dry. There is a small hut just after the crossing. Continued to second crossing of Rio Claro & camped there (a long day) On day 2 I went round the lake & reached the CONAF huts. Going round the lake was OK, I was able to throw a few rocks for stepping stones & get by with dry feet. The CONAF huts are partly built & look abandoned. Continued to Lago Palena & camped on the shore. There is a campsite/refuge marked on the track file above Lago Palena on a rock outcrop, couldn't find it & no trail to it. Best to camp at the lake.

Continuing around Lago Palena in about 2 hours you start to climb to Pass 1390M on RR & the trail improves & is mostly good all the way out to the road in Valle Tigre. I did not see any sign of a trail continuing round the lake on the optional route towards Valle California, it looks like very slow & rough going. Towards the pass you are above treeline. The double crossing of Rio Azul was easy. I tried staying on the near bank but there are thorn bushes blocking the route so you do need to cross the river twice. Camped just before the road & walked out easily on dirt road to Palena on day 4.

Season 2021/22

• GPT27H Option 3 / Lago Rosselot / 2021-Dec-08 and 09 / Direction: Circuit

Participants: Meylin Elisabeth Ubilla González and Jan Dudeck

This scenic lake is located 8 km east of La Junta and certainly worth a visit in good weather when being in the area with a packraft.

The entire circuit on water is about 45 km long and best paddled in two days. Several beaches permit camping.

A public road provides easy access. At the end of the public road are several camp sites.

The predominant wind is southbound on the southern end of the lake and appears to be northbound on the northern end of the lake.

The full circuit is best paddled in two days.

Season 2019/20

• Martin Lizondo / 8 to 14-Jan-2020 / Hiking Southbound

Río Claro/Quinto currently impossible to cross. Recommended time: February after some days with no or little rain. Best hike northbound to cross this river at the beginning of the traverse. See also log for further recommendations.

Summary: lot of snow, demanding river crossings, Río Claro/Quinto impossible to cross. Recommended time: February. Hike northbound.

According to settlers from the Azul valley, the regular route isn’t used by horses and cattle, because of a recent land slide. They recommended me to take the alternative pass to Lago Palena, which is the regular packrafting route.

The packrafting route was very well marked. Hard river fording of Estero Matrera (43º 47' 18,67" S, 71º 47' 4,28" O ) Added difficulty was from the fact that I found a lot of fresh knee level snow!

Down at the lake, there’s a carabineros post, which is the last human presence in the area. From that point starts a pretty overground trail that goes to Punta Lopez. Very steepy and risky. The track isn’t recorded in the GPT files (Jan-2020), so ask in the Facebook group (https://www.facebook.com/groups/222224388283455/?ref=share).

From Punta Lopez ( 43º 53' 23,16" S, 71º 52' 53,65" O ) the trail is better maintained and much more visible. The refuges of Conaf are empty with no human presence ( 43º 55' 24,16" S, 71º 49' 10,13" O ) . From that point the river crossing becomes very frequent. Expect to ford many times per hour. The path also gets into the water of Lago Quinto.

The fording of Río Claro Solar / Rio Quinto was imposible at this date, so I had to turn all way back to Palena ( 44º 1' 46,21" S, 71º 50' 15,14" O ).

Now (15-Jan-2020) it snowed at the mountains again, so rivers may be impossible to ford. From that reason I consider February to be the best time to hike this section, better going northbound, in order to ford Río Claro/Quinto as soon as possible.

Resupply and Accommodation

Resupply and Accommodation in nearby Towns

• No exchange facilities in Lago Verde. There is a Banco Estado ATM in Palena.

• Hostal next to the central square in Lago Verde, near the supermarket. It does a good evening meal. Palena has a few hostals but they tend to be fully booked in high season.

Resupply and Accommodation along the Route

• 2023 / Martin & Helena

Refuge km 45.7 is not there. We camped at km 48.3 where is a big field without trees. CONAF refuges are there, possible to stay inside, but we would be careful with mice.

Links to other Resources

Retired Section Article GPT27H - Lago Palena