4607
ediciones
Cambios
sin resumen de edición
{{borradorIndexed}}[[category:KMZconTrack]]{{RutaForm2RutaForme
|Actividad=Trekking
|País=Argentina, Chile
|CiudadesArgentina=El Bolsón
|CiudadesChile=CuricóSantiago
|BellezaEscenica=Impresionante
|Atractivos=Vistas panorámicas, Glaciar, Bosque, Flora atractiva, Fauna atractiva, Lago, Laguna, Río, Fiordos, Formación Geológica, Cascada, Parque Nacional
|DuraciónDuracion=más de 80 90 días|Dificultad Física=Exigente|Dificultad Técnica=Alta
|Sendero=Tramos sin sendero
|Señalizacion=Insuficiente
|Infraestructura=Inexistente
|TipoTrekComparteIdayRetorno=RecorridoCruce|Latitud1=-38|Longitud1=-73|Distancia=1350 km.3035000|MetrosAscenso=116000|MetrosDescenso=116000|Comentarios distancia=Regular Route (Hiking Option and Packrafting Option without Exploration Sections)|DesnivelAltitudMedia=50.000 metros900
|Primer Autor=Jan Dudeck
|TipoDeMap=HYBRID
|ComentariosMapa=GPT SAMPLE Minimized (NOT FOR HIKING AND PACKRAFTING) {{colores|red|Trail.}}{{colores|blue|Packraft.}}{{colores|blue|Packraft.}}
}}
<br style==Images==[http"clear:both" //www.panoramio.com/user/7876187?show=best Here you find a selection of images from all 16 sections of the Greater Patagonian Trail.]>
<br style==Expected Duration==Hiking the complete trail requires approx. 90 to 120 days. This inculdes some rest days and resupply bus trips to nearby towns."clear:both" />
==Recommended SeasonIntroduction==If you plan to do the entire trail starting with section 1 you should leave in December.
The Main Route currently spans approximately 5'000 km and the entire route network (including all options) contains more than 20'000 km of tracks.
Bethany Hughes and Lauren Reed (Fidgit and Neon): "This trail has been the most punishing and the most magical experience of my hiking career to date.”
[[File:GPT_Manual.jpg|thumb|500px|GPT Hiker's Manual]]
[[File:GPT_Settler_(2).jpg|thumb|500px|GPT22: Discussing route options with settlers at the Río Puelo. Image: Jan Dudeck]]
[[File:GPT10-Peuenche.jpg|thumb|500px|GPT09: Being guest at a Pehuenche family: Fresh milk, fresh cheese, fresh meat! Image: Jan Dudeck]]
[[File:GPT07-Laguna_del_Maule.jpg|thumb|right|500px|GPT07: Horse riding with Danilo and Jito (the founder and horse riding guide of [http://www.chile-horseriding.com/ www.chile-horseriding.com]) at the dormant Supervolcano Laguna del Maule. Image: Jan Dudeck]]
[[File:GPT09-Laguna_de_las_Lajas.jpg|thumb|500px|GPT09: Circling the volcano Antuco. Image: Jan Dudeck]]
[[File:GPT18-Lago_Pirihueco.jpg|thumb|500px|GPT18: Camping at the shore of Lago Pirihueco. Image: Jan Dudeck]]
[[File:GPT28P-Ferry.jpg|thumb|right|500px|GPT28P: Patagonian fjords seen from the ferry on the way from Raul Marin Balmaceda to Puerto Chacabuco. Image: Jan Dudeck]]
Chapter 3 goes deep into specific topics. You can will require this expertise for specific tasks e.g. when setting up your GPS or when calculating distances and estimating travel times. The Appendix also explore two hidden lagoons; one contains valuable additional information that fills an ancient crater and contribute to a second one that was dammed up by anothersmaller volcano. Both lakes are not far profound understanding of the trail near a scenic camp siteGPT and the region.
===The Base Camp Descabezado Grande is frequently visited by national and international tourists coming from Vilches Alto. Also horseback tours often stop and rest here.Wikiexplora GPT Section Articles===
A good part the trails and cross-country routes remained undocumented until recorded and published digitally for the GPT. Therefore, suitable paper maps are often not available, and the few existing maps are inconsistent, of variable quality and insufficient to follow major parts the GPT. The only reliable way to navigate on the GPT is therefore a GPS with the digital track and waypoint documentation that was specifically created for the GPT. This digital documentation with the relevant geographic information consists of multiple files in different file types and is called in the following “GPT Track and Waypoint Documentation” or in short “Track Files”. Hikers that feel uncomfortable being guided by a GPS need to learn and adapt to this form of navigation or discard the idea of hiking the Greater Patagonian Trail. Such hikers may resort to the established public trails in Patagonia that are better signposted and more suitable for classic navigation with paper maps. The track files are provided on personal request by the author free of charge but not unconditionally. Read Chapter 1 of the [http://bit.ly/GPTguide Hikers’ Manual] where you find the Code of Conduct on the GPT and the Terms and Conditions for Using the Hikers’ Manual and the Track Files. Review these conditions and read why they were put in place. Should you agree all Terms and Conditions, follow the instructions in Hikers’ Manual. ===Water SupplyThe GPT Facebook Group===Refill The GPT Facebook Group is a communication platform for past, present and prospective GPT adventurers. Here all hikers can announce their intended plans, seek other hikers to form small groups, post brief summaries after completing a section or simply ask questions. And what is more important: use the Facebook group to alert other hikers after running into a problem that may also affect others. Do this by first adding your water supply at description and suggestions to the marked river crossings relevant Wikiexplora GPT section article. Then either duplicate this information in the Facebook group or simply refer and link to your update in the campsWikiexplora article. The GPT Facebook Group is also the location where I now notify hikers when a new version of the Hikers’ Manual is published, when updated track files are available and where I share other news regarding the GPT. To become member of the [http://bit.ly/GPTfacebook GPT Facebook Group] you need a Facebook account and request access: http://bit.ly/GPTfacebook ===Publications to the GPT by other Hikers and Packrafters=== With this Hikers’ Manual and the article on Wikiexplora I aim to create a systematic introduction and comprehensive documentation of the GPT. I intentionally try not to overload these documents with personal stories from the trail. There is another reason why my writing is rather technical. I’m an Engineer by trade, I work as an inspector and issue inspection reports on a regular base. For this I need to carefully choose my words to be factual and precise but also legally sound. Storytelling is neither needed nor welcome in my inspection reports. When numbers are available or when information can be structured into tables or charts than this is always preferred over well phrased verbal descriptions. You will notice these writing habits in the Hikers’ Manual and the Wikiexplora article. Keeping my personal stories mostly out and maintaining this documentation rather technical benefits a systematic preparation but makes the Hikers’ Manual and the article on Wikiexplora a bit bland. But for most hikers, and this includes me, the personal experience of the land and with the people are the dominating motives for such an endeavour. To tap on more personal experiences during your preparation watch some videos and read some blogs that were issued by GPT hikers in recent years. In between these waypoints publications you find the diverse individual perceptions of the GPT. Some blogs openly describe mishaps and lessons learned and hopefully help other in avoiding the same mistakes. The Hikers' Manual provides in chapters 3.7 Distinct Contributors and 3.8 Publications to the GPT a collection of links to videos and blogs that I consider particularly useful. <br style="clear:both" /> ==The GPT Route Network== [[File:GPT36H-Ruta_de_los_Pioneros.jpg|thumb|500px|GPT36H: Poorly maintained historic horse trail "Ruta de los Pioneros". Image: Jan Dudeck]][[File:GPT16-Quetrupillan.jpg|thumb|500px|GPT16: Circling the volcano Quetrupillan with the volcano Villarica in the background. Image: Jan Dudeck]] The Greater Patagonian Trail is not a hiking trail. Yes, you read correctly so let me repeat one more time: '''The GPT is not a hiking trail.''' So, what is it then? The GPT is an informal route network that consists mostly of trails, roads and cross-country routes that were not created with hikers in mind. Most of the trails were made by the local population to serve their purposes, e.g. to drive animals to summer pastures, to get to remote settlements and outposts or to extract wood from the forest. The routes that the GPT is composed of include: * horse trails that are frequently used by the local cowboys (in Chile arriero or puestero, in Argentina gaucho),* poorly maintained and neglected trails that are washed out, trenched and blocked by fallen logs,* minor roads and simple car tracks that are occasionally used by all-terrain vehicles,* trail-less cross-country routes in barren open terrain,* a few short stretches of bush bashing through thick growth* and where no more adventurous route was found also public roads with moderate transit traffic.* Additionally, packrafters can cross mountain lakes, float down generally calm rivers and paddle in the Patagonian fjords. This diversity makes the GPT so authentic but also inconsistent and in parts challenging. Since the GPT is an informal route network, few signposts and trail markers facilitate route finding and none of these signs and markers refer to the GPT. The national parks contain some marked trails, though these signs are often unmaintained and inconsistent. Outside of parks you may sporadically see chopped off bark, sun faded strips of plastic, beer cans or even cattle skulls hanging in a tree. That’s no vandalism or littering but how locals occasionally mark a route. But the landlords that regularly use these trails rarely need signposts as they know their trails inside-out and nobody else is expected to come. On many of these trails a customary right-of-way applies but some routes cross private land and you often can’t distinguish the difference. Therefore, when you venture onto the GPT you are mostly an unexpected guest on trails that were not made for you, and you will trespass over private property. So be at least a respectful and friendly trespasser that can explain in Spanish what you are doing there. Unlike many long-distance hiking trails, the GPT is not a single-line trail but a wide route network with countless options. When hiking on the GPT you have the privilege and task of composing your own personal route by making your choices along the way. This makes every hike on the GPT a unique and incomparable experience. The number of options becomes evident when comparing the length of the Main Route (approximately 5'000 km) with the total length of all tracks (more than 20’000 km). The GPT route network starts in the outskirts of the Chilean capital Santiago de Chile and reaches all the way to Tierra del Fuego and Isla Navarino on the southern tip of the continent. The actual length that someone may walk and paddle on the GPT depends highly on the chosen route, the start and the finish point and the method of travel (hiking or packrafting). The GPT is not a trail that can be hiked efficiently. The trail will find only ocasinally change your plans without asking and inevitably stop you from time to time or even turn you around. Also, the period of suitable hiking weather is in parts quite short. Some sections become traversable December or January after most snow has molten and the rivers calmed down and can be forded safely. In late March or during April fierce snowstorms may make the route impassable again. The recommended pace on this route network is the "appreciation pace". This pace gives you the time to make an attractive detour, in example to climb a summit next to the trail without worrying about your schedule. This adequate rate of advance permits you to accept the invitation of a poblador (settler) to share some trinking cups of mate or to sit out a day of torrential rain in a puesto (improvised shelter) with an arriero (Chilean cowboy, also called puestero). This adaptable pace permits you to wait in front of a pass if the weather is too volatile or to spend a day or two waiting at a lake if it is too windy to paddle with your packraft. This trail is therefore not suitable for hikers who are out to race a clock, or those that need full control and measure their success in kilo¬meters or miles. It's for hikers for whom completion is irrelevant, and instead count their enjoyable and eventful days in a pristine and diverse environment. It’s a trail for thoughtful discoverers who can accept being guests and not dominators. '''All this makes the GPT a discovery network with a good portion of unpredictability but an impressive authenticity.''' <br style="clear:both" /> ==The GPT Terrain: Greater Patagonia== [[File:Pat_map.PNG|thumb|400px|Limits of Patagonia. Image: [https://es.wikipedia.org/wiki/Patagonia Wikipedia]]][[File:Historic_Map_Patagonia.jpg|thumb|400px|Historic map of Patagonia. Image: [https://es.wikipedia.org/wiki/Patagonia Wikipedia]]] If you are considering exploring the Greater Patagonian Trail and wish to enjoy the experience, you must be open to experiencing the unknown diversity of this region. If your imagination of Patagonia is based on TV documentaries and travel magazine than you probably have seen primarily these three heavily hyped tourist magnets: * the national park Torres del Paine,* the glacier Perito Moreno and * the surrounding of El Chalten with Mount Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre. These are three truly amazing spots on the eastern edge of the Southern Patagonian Icefield and are internationally known highlights of Patagonia. But these three frequently pictured attractions do not represent the Patagonian diversity. If your primary interest is visiting the heavily trod, famous places of Patagonia then stick to the national parks in the south and bus in between. The GPT offers much more than this. The Greater Patagonian Trail is rather like a gourmet menu of different courses that allow you to experience the different tastes and textures of Patagonia. It connects the semi-desert of Precordillera with the Patagonian Icefields and the barren volcanos with the damp green rain forest. The Greater Patagonian Trail crosses most of Patagonia and the adjacent regions to the north. For this reason I named the trail “Greater Patagonian Trail” when I started publishing in 2014. I coined the term "Greater Patagonia" to combine Patagonia in its traditional limits with the adjacent regions like "Greater London" includes the city of London and the surroundings. The limits of Patagonia are somewhat blurry. This makes it impractical to state where exactly the GPT gets into Patagonia. If taking the administrative limits of Argentina, than you get in throwing range of Patagonia at the end of section GPT05 where you can look over the Argentinian border into the province Neuquén. But with a different understanding you enter Patagonia on section GPT13 where you ford the Río Biobío. Others argue that Patagonia starts with the Chilean administrative region XIV (Región de los Ríos) what makes section GPT16 the gateway into Patagonia. You can be certain to have reached Patagonia on section GPT22 where you arrive at the first Patagonian fjord: the Estuarió de Reloncaví. For me this discussion about the limits of Patagonia is irrelevant if I can walk and paddle through pristine and varied terrain. Actually, the less known regions north of Patagonia more attractive for hiking. Here you walk more distance high up in the mountains with broad views, here you find the more attractive trails and cross-country routes and here you meet the arrieros and the native Pehuenche people. Also, the climate is more favourable for hiking. During summer, rain is infrequent, and you can mostly enjoy sunny weather. In contrast, when reaching Patagonia, get ready for frequent and enduring rain. Also, don't expect to walk high up in the mountains in the heartland of Patagonia as there is simply no continuously high mountain range. In Patagonia high mountains are rather like islands that are surrounded by dense temperate rainforest in the west and a semi-desert-like Pampa in the east. These island-like mountains are separated by wide valleys that were carved by giant glaciers during past glacial periods. The wide valleys are now partly filled with lakes that drain their water in powerful rivers into the Patagonian fjords. Therefore, “real Patagonia” is best traveled by packraft because water trickles away easily a packraft gets you on these lakes, rivers and fjords. <br style="clear:both" /> ==[https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thru-hiking Thru-Hiking] the GPT== [[File:GPT09-Familia_Carrileo1.jpg|thumb|right|500px|GPT09: The summer outpost ("puesto") of the Pehuenche family Carrileo near Guallalí. Image: Jan Dudeck]][[File:GPT09-Familia_Carrileo2.jpg|thumb|right|500px|GPT09: Being guest of the family Carrileo. Image: Jan Dudeck]] '''This trail was not created to thru-hike Patagonia, it's a route network for immersion-hiking. The GPT does not get you through Patagonia but gets you deep into Patagonia.''' With the volcanic soil2021 extension the GPT spans about 5000 km in often difficult and slow terrain. This makes the GPT too long to be safely thru-hiked in one season . An experienced thru-hiker may disagree as 5000 km is just 15% longer than the Pacific Crest Trail (PCT) but the varied and unpredictable terrain makes this comparison inadequate.Drinking Therefore, I do not recommend attempting a thru-hike of the water GPT. This focus would require rushing and taking less attractive short cuts, in example deviating from GPT to walk on main roads instead of following the hot springs trails. It inhibits slowing down to fully appreciate the land and share time with the people along the route. And more importantly, someone who tries to thru-hike the GPT in one season is forced to hike some sections off season. This results in unreasonable risks by attempting to cross torrential rivers and climbing to high elevations when fierce blizzards can kill. And remember, when walking these trails, you are just a guest on the land of others. Just the idea of racing through strangers’ backyards is regarded a rude in these remote regions. '''From a thru-hiking perspective the GPT is less than a long-distance trail.''' There is no clearly defined and well-marked single trail to blaze along, there is no thru-hiking community to trail talk and there are no “trail angels” providing “trail magic”. On the GPT hikers have no domiciliary rights; they are just unexpected guests. Also, the packrafting options do not recommended benefit thru-hiking as they do not make a traverse faster. And what might be the biggest disappointment for some thru-hikers on the GPT: There is no trail community and thru-hikers do not receive any special admiration because it can upset nobody along the trail distinguishes between thru-hikers, section-hikers, day-hikers, or tourists in general. '''For respectful explorers the GPT is much more than a long-distance trail.''' It’s a wide network of routes with many hiking options and packrafting in a diverse landscape. A unique blend of people lives along the trails making the hike more of a cultural experience. If approached with respect and interest, then these welcoming people will share much more than just the right-of-way regardless where you are coming from and where you are walking to. On this trail your willingness and capability to immerse yourself in this culture will be more relevant than the weight of your stomachbackpack. Better If you find Triple Crown Thru-Hikers more credible to speak about thru-hiking the GPT than read in the Hikers' Manual how Lauren Reed (Neon) and Christine Thürmer (German Tourist) experienced the GPT in comparison with the renowned US long distance trails. Lauren was the first hiker to walk the entire length of the GPT in two seasons together with Bethany Hughes (Fidgit). Someone who wants to explore the entire length of GPT should split this adventure into various seasons. This also facilitates hiking lightly where a packraft would just be a burden and to packraft were the extra weight really pays off. Having more than one season also gives the extra time to take fresh water some of the more demanding but rewarding options. There is one more reason why a thru-hike of the GPT in the literal sense is not viable. Thru-hiking means walking a complete long-distance trail with connecting footsteps from start to finish typically in one season. This is only possible on a well-defined trail with a set start and finish point. This simply does not apply to the river or GPT. Attempting to thru-hike the GPT is like trying to memorise every word of a cold spring nearbybook that is still in the making with the first drafts informally shared for peer reviews. It’s pretty pointless and assigns this evolving route network far too much authority. But this unfinished nature of the GPT makes it possible to investigate new routes and become co-authors of the GPT. This is a unique difference to established long-distance trails. You are not limited to just follow a given trail, but you can contribute to the GPT by adding your part to this unfinished story.
==Packrafting the GPT=Difficulty===The isolation and the high passes make this a rather difficult but rewarding trail. Good orientational skill are required because hardly any signposts are placed and some parts of the trail are cross country.
==Questions and Feedbacks=Waypoints===Start (GPT01-WP001): Start in Radal at final bus stop. Only in January and February some busses continue to Parque Ingles.Shop (GPT01-WP002): Small shop with basic supplies in Radal. Good to get a beer and some extra goodies for the night but not to supply you for the trip.Camp $ (GPT01-WP003): Nice, reasonable priced camp site in Radal. Recommen¬ded place for the first night if arriving in the evening.Shop & Restaurant (GPT01-WP004): Parque Inglés with kiosk and a cosy restaurant about 10 km after the starting point. Last chance to enjoy the pleasures of civilisation before heading into the wilderness.Diversion, CONAF & Camp $ (GPT01-WP005): The hiking trail starts left. You should register at the CONAF office. There is a camp site nearby.River Crossing (GPT01-WP006): Easy river crossing.River Crossing (GPT01-WP007): Easy river crossing.River Crossing (GPT01-WP008): Easy river crossing.River Crossing (GPT01-WP009): Easy river crossing.Camp (GPT01-WP010): There are some nice camp sites on the meadows of El Bolson. Inside the national park CONAF does not permit camp fires.Refuge (GPT01-WP011): Basic refuge in El Bolson that can shelter for up to 4 persons.Pass 2260 m (GPT01-WP012): First pass with nice view back into the Valle del Indio. After this pass comes a 2 km levelled section before ascending to the second pass.Lake (GPT01-WP013): Laguna Las Ánimas. You may camp at the lake but there is little shelter from wind.Water (GPT01-WP014): Clear fresh water.Pass 2560 m (GPT01-WP015): Second pass with nice view towards Laguna Mondaca.Camp (GPT01-WP016): Probably the best camp spot near Laguna Mondaca with water, fire wood and some wind protection.Lake (GPT01-WP017): Laguna Mondaca.River Crossing (GPT01-WP018): Difficult river crossing during snowmelt and after heavy rain. The river often changes it's bed therefore look for the optimal place to cross. Yon need to cross the river to avoid rocky terrain ahead.River Crossing (GPT01-WP019): Difficult river crossing during snowmelt and after heavy rain. The river often changes it's bed therefore look for the optimal place to cross.Hot Spring, Camp & Puesto (GPT01-WP020): Termas de Azufre. Excellent hot spring with several small pools. You may need to adjust the temperature by regulating the hot water inlet flow. No fire wood but you may heat water and food at the hot steam vents (follow the noise). Good camp site if you tolerate the sulphur smell. The posteros arrive in January.River Crossing (GPT01-WP021): Moderate difficult river crossing. Yon need to cross the river to avoid steep loose pumice fields ahead.River Crossing (GPT01-WP022): Easy river crossing.Pass 2700 m (GPT01-WP023): The highest point of the entire Greater Patagonian Trail (apart from the summit of the Descabezado Grande).Camp & Puesto (GPT01-WP024): Base Camp Descabezado Grande. Probably the best camp spot in this area. You best take water from the spring on the right side of the river about 20 to 30 m from this waypoint. Frequently visited area. Base camp for climbing the Volcan Descabezado. Basic stone shelter occasionally used by local posteros and horseback guides.Hot Spring (GPT01-WP025): One lukewarm pool at the Base Camp Descabezado Grande.Water ? (GPT01-WP026): Possible access to water on the way to the summit. May be unreliable and depending on snowmelt. Please verify and report to trekking guide author.Cross (GPT01-WP027): Cross near the summit.Summit 3900 m (GPT01-WP028): Summit of the Descabezado Grande.River Crossing & Camp (GPT01-WP029): Astonishing oasis in the middle of a volcanic desert. Good camp site with water, fire wood and wind protection.Lake (GPT01-WP030): Nearly 3 km long drainless lake Laguna Caracol in the middle of pumice and lava.Lake (GPT01-WP031): Hidden lake in volcanic crater that can be seen from the next pass.Camp (GPT01-WP032): Camp site without fire wood and wind protection. Water is probably best taken from the spring 300 m upstream.Water (GPT01-WP033): Clear fresh water spring.Lake (GPT01-WP034): Hidden lake that can be seen from the next pass.Pass 2540 m (GPT01-WP035): Pass with impressive view.Camp (GPT01-WP036): Probably the best camp site in this area and the only one with a meadow. Sufficient water and fire wood. The lake further down is dusty and without fire wood.River Crossing (GPT01-WP037): Easy river crossing.Lake (GPT01-WP038): Laguna Hornitos that is dammed up by the Crater Hornitos. You can easily ascent to the summit of the crater (60 m climb). Trail Head (GPT01-WP039): Trail head (or end). Turn right onto the hydropower station road.Water ? (GPT01-WP040): Possible access to water.Gate (GPT01-WP041): Unmanned gate that may be locked. Pedestrians may pass on the right side of the gate if locked.Gate ? (GPT01-WP042): Gate of hydropower station that was not used by trekking guide author. Please verify and report to author. You probably can leave anytime but you need a permit from the hydropower station for entering.Bus Stop (GPT01-WP043): Unmarked bus stop on the Route 115 to Talca.Gate (GPT01-WP044): Manned main gate of hydropower station Cipreses. You can leave anytime but you need a permit from the hydro¬power station for entering. You may ask the leaving employees for a ride to Talca.Bus Stop (GPT01-WP045): Unmarked bus stop on the Route 115 to Talca.