Cambios

When I arrived at Lago Rivadavia at 2 PM the wind was in full force. The next morning was calm as could be. It took 4.5 scenic hours to the south end where a rope across Rio Rivadalvia prevents motorized boats and a sign states you must be accompanied by a guide or register with park authorities. Perhaps this is why 2 fly fishing guides scolded me from the other side of the river for scaring away their fish. Paddle delicately and perhaps ask permission before passing. Nobody but fish after the first rapid. This river is stunning. The trail to the mirador on Lago Menéndez is a good opportunity to stretch the legs. There’s a cafe with snacks and 400 peso/30 minute WIFI on the East side of the pasarela (footbridge). Great wind ride on Lago Futalaufquen all the way to Villa Futalaufquen. Some nice sheltered spots at the almost empty Camping Libre Las Rocas East of Villa Futalaufquen. From there to Palena on a weekend when busses don’t run it took 8 hours including groceries in Travelin and some walking. Don’t forget about the veggie police (aka aduana iguanas) at the border crossing.

I hiked section 24H, but want to pass on to packrafters that park rangers confirmed that the trail from Lago Krügger to Villa Futalaufquen is open for its entire length, not just from Playa Blanca. There is no longer a ferry service from Punta Mattos to Lago Krugger so hikers can not cross the lake and hike this trail to Villa Futalaufquen. There is a daily ferry service from Puerto Limonao (3km north of VF) to Lago Krugger at noon, and returns at 19:00. There is a Refugio at Lago Krugger.