Plantilla:Day 1 Lago Verde - Lago Palena (English)

The journey through Sendero de Chile’s Heritage Trail has begun.The starting point is located just below the sign post placed at the end of Rio Quinto Street,northern entrance to the town of Lago Verde. This place,where the route to Lago Verde and Lago Palena starts, has been designated as Guide Post Number One, Entrance Gate. It is highly recommended to read all the information found on the sign post regarding characteristics of the trail, points of interest, type of surface, etc...
As an introduction to the trail it is interesting to mention that long before Carretera Austral existed as the connecting route with the town of La Junta, the locals explain that this was part of the road used to drive cattle to the surrounding animal markets of Alto Palena and Chaiten.
The trail heads north over a well kept vehicle’s dirt road,ideal for walking or horse riding. This road is surrounded by extended wooden and wire fences used to keep animals secure and well fed in beautiful and grass-full fields. Young Radal (Lomatia hirsuta) and Ñirres (Nothofagus antarctica) forests (Renovales) might well be seen through the fences as well as dense pastures covering cattle fields.A local type of cane,named Coligue or Caña (Chusque culeou),is also abundant. It is used by locals as winter food for animals.
Two Impressive peaks might be seen from this point,Botella Este (east bottle) on the Argentinean territory, with 1.748 meters above mean sea level and Botella Oeste,just on the borderline between Chile and Argentina with 1817 meters (amsl). After crossing a small river is Guide Post Number 2, “Los Grandes Pastizales”(The Vast Grass-fields). No more wooden fenced fields will be seen and from now on grass-fields and Renovales will be the common landscape.The absence of traffic is reflected now on the route with fewer car marks and greater vegetation.Sendero de Chile’s guide posts and stakes become more important as the route follows. The route continues north and slightly ascends through massive Renovales to descend later following a northwest direction for approximately 3.800 meters. A wooden gate or “trance” must be crossed, but it is important to close it afterwards to avoid cattle from escaping. Later the route crosses a tiny stream and after 5 meters Guide Post Number 3, Desvío del Riachuelo (The Stream’s Detour) will be found.The route heading west must be taken at this point. After leaving Guide Post Number 3 behind and riding for about 2.600 meters to the northwest the route arrives to Pico River’s valley.This river is born in Argentinean Patagonia, and must be followed on an east to west direction for around 1.000 meters to reach Guide Post Number 4, La Pasarela (The hanging bridge).
At this site an old hanging bridge exists. It used to be functional and presumably very resistant because local people mention that it allowed even light vehicles to cross over Pico River to the north. Actually, its detrimental condition presenting rotten poles and missing structures has forced its closure. Nowadays a new bridge is projected. The importance of this site is not minor, because during summer season, more precisely from November to April,this river,with the proper water level, can easily be crossed on horseback. However during winter time the water level rises considerably making its crossing by horse impossible.
It is important to mention that all the fields bordering the route found from Guide Post Number 1 to Number 4, belong to the Rubio family. Their property is more than 1.309 hectares dedicated extensively to grow cattle and produce firewood.
After crossing Pico River the route continues to be wide enough for vehicles transit, ensuring an easy horse ride.The route heads northwest following the river course until it reaches Guide Post Number 5, Fundo La Esperanza, meaning Hopes Farm. From this point onwards,the route turns into a typical southern mountains path; narrow, covered by dense rainforest and permitting access only to horse riders, animals or pedestrians.It is important to realize that the vegetation so far has been mainly Radal and Ñirre renovales.
From Guide Post Number 5 the trail characteristics will change dramatically.The route now is full of steep hills,climbing from 325 meters average mean sea level to 450 meters (amsl) in a matter of few minutes. This, together with the muddy soil conditions of the trail surface and the higher humidity levels correspondent to a higher altitude,makes the ride a harder challenge, however the increased oxygen levels and the panoramic views of such pristine vegetation worth the effort.Among a variety of vegetation along the trail are dense Renovales of Notros (Embothrium coccineum), Radales and Coigues (Nothofagus dombeyi), well mixed with bushes like Zarzaparrilla (Ribes magallanicum) and Calafate (Berberis Buxifolia). After a narrow and steep bend on the trail is Guide Post Number 6, Mirador del Valle (The valley’s lookout).This is a resting point with specific information and basic facilities. It was built no more than two years ago by Sendero de Chile. It is advisable to give horses a break at this point, after the great effort they had to make. Time must be taken to appreciate the magnificent views of the surrounding environment and the abundant vegetation. To the Southeast Pico River meets Figueroa River coming from the north.Wherever you look ispossible to find traces of glacier activity, spectacular geographical forms and vast extensions of rainforest covering most of the mountains.
The trail now heads mostly to the north. It runs over side hills mainly covered with exuberant Radal and Coigue Renovales.Contrary with the big efforts made to reach Guide Post Number 6, the trail now presents moderate slopes and becomes considerably flat and easy going, giving the traveler a good opportunity to enjoy the breathtaking landscape.
After 1.250 meters the route arrives to a tranca corresponding to Guide Post Number 7,Tranqueras del filo (Trancas from the edge).The tranca must be opened and closed to continue on the same direction. The site presents a privileged view. Clear traces of glacial erosion on rocky cliffs, showing “aborregadas” (sheep shaped) rocks and a dense and humid vegetation. From the same site it is possible to appreciate human intervention on forests, by cleaning fields for cattle.Locals use controlled fires to prepare the fields for animals. They burn all the vegetation and the remaining trunks are gathered together for their future use as firewood.Grass will profusely grow then, covering all the open spaces left. The process used for cleaning the fields is known as “Roce”.
Landscape is dominated by mountain peaks.To the North there are plenty of still nameless mountains with altitudes over 1700 meters (amsl). To the east iot is possible to observe many peaks forming part of the international limit between Chile and Argentine.
The route continues northwards crossing many partially cleaned fields. Both sides of the route are cover with fallen,burnt or cut trunks. Some meters further a glacial deep valley, hosting a small lagoon, is home for a tiny and beautiful Lenga’s (Nothofagus pumilio) renoval.This place due to its particular charm and the presence of water and burning wood is ideal as a camping site. However,as in all private properties, permission from the owner,who lives close by, must be obtained before.
After a short break the journey continues.The trail remains heading to the north and after a couple of meters the route starts to descend gradually towards De Los Nevados River’s valley. The De Los Nevados River flows to the south and it is formed by many mountain effluents. On its way to the south it meets Pico River and at that point it changes its name to Figueroa River.Further south it feeds the Desague River (Drainpipe River) that takes its water from Lago Verde Lake.
Following North the route arrives to another tranca that must crossed and closed.After a 3.080 meters ride on the east side of the De Los Nevados River valley is Guide Post Number 8, Rio Diente (Tooth River) or Valle Primero (First Valley).
The view is marvelous with not only many waterfalls formed by Diente River to observe but with impressive sights of the valley in all its amplitude on its confluence with de Los Nevados river.
The horizon is dominated by enormous snow capped mountains bordering Quinto River’s valley.The snows from these mountains are constantly feeding Quinto River and Quinto Lake.The latest is located to the North of the site. Vegetation is dense and even. The dominant species present are Radal and Notro forming renovales.Some bushes are present too,mainly Michay (Berberis darwinii),Calafate and Zarzaparilla. The view changes dramatically to the East,where the consequences of an ancient fire are eloquent. Huge lonely burnt trunks lying everywhere on the unreachable hillsides are clear signs of the amazing vegetation that existed before.
About 1.300 meters to the north on the eastern side hill of the De Los Nevados River valley is Guide Post Number 9,Estero San Lorenzo (San Lorenzo’s Stream). The place is located on one edge of San Lorenzo stream showing clear signs of water erosion due to the effect of De Los Nevados river increasing its level largely above the normal during the year 2000.The result was a clear cut on the ground that nowadays,due to erosion, exposes different sediment layers accumulated in the past decades.A break is recommended at this point.
A small break is recommended.The route continues descending gradually until it reaches the bottom of the De Los Nevados River valley. Then, the route fords the river upstream to the North. Coigue and Notro Renovales and some Chaura (Gaultheria phillyreifolia) bushes are the main species on the river edges.Two trancas will be crossed and the closed in a distance of approximately 1.200 meters. The route starts climbing up the eastern hillside of the valley leaving the river’sbed behind.The route then gets wider and some meters to the North it meets a huge tranca. After crossing it, the traveler might be surprised with the existence of well kept top quality prairies crowed with well fed cattle, main income for the local people.
Further up,the trail enters an ancient forest with species such us MañÌo (Saxegothaea conspicua), Tepa (Laurelia philippiana) and Coige. Even though this forest was modified and exploited for cattle production, human intervention was subtle and permitted large trees of various different species to remain untouched. Forests with these characteristics are known as Mature Forests,and precisely that is the name for Guide Post Number 10,Bosque Maduro.
Once the route leaves De Los Nevados River behind,it enters an open forest with majestic trees on both of its sides, letting the rider to enjoy a short canter through this beautiful landscape.The route arrives unnoticed to the last tranca of this section.
Around 2.460 meters to the North is Guide Post Number 11, named Desvío al Refugio Particular (Private Shelter Detour). The post is located at a detour leading to a local’s farm house and shelter built specially for people visiting the trail. After five and a half hours riding on a horseback this sounds like paradise. Due to the places beauty, a stroll around the garden and orchard is recommended.The traveler will find apple and apricot trees,together with a young Araucaria (Araucaria araucana) with its outstanding dark green branches reflecting on a pristine air.
The view is amazing in all directions; To the East some spectacular cliffs forming part of the border with Argentine; To the west a massive range of mountains covered with dense forests of Coigues,Tepas and Mañios; and finally to the North Quinto River’s Valley coming from the North and bending to the west in direction to the town of La Junta,just some kilometers before Guide Post Number 11.