GPT19 (Volcan Puyehue)
Add a new log entry always on top in the appropriate season sub-chapter and use format:
* Start Date to Finish Date (use Format YYYY-MMM-DD) / Duration in Days / Hiking or Packrafting / Travel Direction (SOBO for Southbound or NOBO Northbound) / Chosen Route and/or Option Name (RR for Regular Route) / Names or Alias
Summary with remarks to route that are considered useful for other hikers and packrafters. Include alerts, suggestions and personal perception of attractiveness and difficulties.
Add a sub-chapter by placing two "=" before and after the new sub-chapter heading ('==Sub-Chapter Heading==').
Section Log, Alerts and Suggestions
Season 2025/26
Season 2024/25
Season 2023/24
- 2024-Apr-08 to 2024-Apr- / days / SOBO / RR / Matthias de Austria
Work in progress
- From 2024-02-29 to 2024-03/02 // 3 days // Hiking // NOBO // RR + Option 4 (summit) + Option 4B (cratere) + Variant D // Quentin Clavel
Anticura - Refuge - Puyehue summit - Cratere - volcanic plateau - geyser - Rio nilahue Lago maihue - Puerto maihue
After basic ressuply in Anticura, at "Tia Olivia" at Lican, point "Food, Lodging {19} [81.4/345]" but it's really in case of emergency. She's a very nice lady and has in stock Bread, cheese, big bottle of coca cola, some juices and frost empanadas that she warmup.
I was in emergency so I resupply there, but just to keep in mind it's not a minimarket or so, just a tiny tiny resupply possibility. Olivia is a charm we discussed a lot, and she even took from her personal reserve pasta and biscuits that make the next section easier in term of food !
After this resupply I just go for a big climb to the Refuge Without Water {19} [73.8/1378] first, mostly in the forest, then to the Summit {19-04} [2.0/2198] (Volcan Puyehue). On the way to go, only one fence to pass, then the track is well marked, even for the summit, lot of cairns helps you to find the way.
It's slippery and tuff ascent to the summit, but you just can't go around and avoid the absolute breathtaking crater ! I've done the option 4B, which is the hike all around the cratere, quite physical with all the ups and downs, but again, absolutely amazing ! For sure it was one of my highlight of this GPT so far !
Then the volcanic plateau was stunning too. Idk if it was because I was tired or something else, but the distances seems to me huge. You have the feeling that what you see is very close and you need a lot of time to go. It's a lot of ups and downs again, but scenery is amazing, the old lavas are incredible, and these geysers where here to finish the show. I had such a great time !
And then, you suddenly go on a forest which is a huge contrast, continuing long way down to the gravel. I was not checking my GPS and took the most obvious track, which is not even an option on the GPT files, anyway the track leeds me to the variant D, and I was able to refill my water, even if I was happy to find some Frome snowmelt on the volcanic plateau.
Continuing the way to the beautiful lake Maihue. Still always impressed how we can pass threw a lot of various landscapes in that so small amount of time !
Crossing Rio hueinahue wasn't a problem, if it would have been, there's always the option to continue the road and cross it on the bridge, on variant B, adding only 4 kilometers.
The gravel along the lake was very busy as it was the end of the day and everyone came back from the beach, fishing, boat cruise or anything else.
A lot of opportunities to sleep in camping, on the area of Maqueo/Puerto Maihue, even to eat on small restaurant/food truck and small minimarket (but there's a bigger minimarket further on next section)
- 2024-Jan-23 to 2024-Jan-25 / 2.5 days /Option2 + RR+VarD+E+A / Matthias
The route: (Osorno-) Riñiñahue(Lago Ranco) - Volcano Puyehue - Anticura (-GPT20)
Getting there: There are busses from Osorno to Rio Bueno and from RioBueno to Lago Ranco every 30 minutes, some direct connections also. From Lago Ranco to Riñiñahue buses 12:30 and 14:50 on weekdays.
My impression: Biggest challenge were by far the tabaños, which gave me the speed for long hiking distances, because in the valleys I could not even stand still to take a photo without being attacked ferociously. The plateau before vulcano Puyehue is spectacular with the geysers and lava flows. Ascent from north on RR a bit boring. Long stretch of MR and little views. Hiking is easy but tedious on the plateau (loose vulcanite ash). Several easy snowfields, the gully at 53.5 is tricky to cross though, but can be bypassed upstream.
Water: Requires planning your water resources! Last water on way up to plateau as mentioned by others about where Var E starts from Var D. Either you follow D 200m further and Dobson bushbashing to the left or on E shortly after start but also not very easy to reach. Water at km 53.5 and 53.7 now dry (I could get a liter out of a puddle), also km 68.6 and 69.2 are dry! Also no water near the hut, but plenty in between pass km 69.9 and about a km before the hug. On the plateau there is some melting water, but mostly it is very muddy.
- 2024-Jan-25 to 2024-Jan-28 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR - {19-01} - RR - {19-04A?} - ski off trail - RR - {19-H} - RR / Lilian
Camp beside the lake + Hot spring + Geyser + Volcano + Skiing = GPT19
Do you have any reasons to reject this section?
I take a bus at Maihue on 8:15pm. Arrive Rupumeica Bajo on 9pm, 1500 CLP. When i take off the bus, the driver told me there are some nice spots good for camping and swimming beside the lake, so i go west at x RR [13.3/144].
You can walk 1.2km to Puerto Rupameica "port[4.9/90], arrive the beach, then turn right walking on the beach to find a good spot for camping, but lot of car drivers thinks the same idea. So that beach is a little noisy and crowded even in weekdays night.
If you look at satellite map, there is a side road at (-40.31429, -71.98794), it is behind barbed wire fence, but a friendly locked gate at left side, climb over it then follow the road go down to the beach. Some nice camping spots on a grassland covered by bushes and trees with fire ring, good wind protection and privacy just before the beach.
Also you can camping at the beach, but the cabins and people at Hueinahue can easily look at you(too close). So i follow the beach to walk towards the lake's inlet shore. Lastly I camped at (-40.31074, -71.99001), beside the only tall tree(it doesn't covered me anything). I cleared a spot for a small single person tent, with 180° views of Lago Maihue. Bushes at back covered me for privacy.
RR km3.9 : tiny shop and food truck, (-40.32258, -71.96776)
X[13.3/144] : bus stop, i saw a bus arrive here at 9.10am. Then steep climb up on a good condition dirt road, but hot.
Km16.0 : junction of RR and {19-C}, {19-C} is in a better condition, so i go for it. But i recommend you keep going on RR, and NOT NOT NOT go by {19-C}.
Everything is good also i find a black pipe can fill water in bottles at (-40.33101, -71.98693) until {19-C} km1.4. Trail becomes very confusing, lot of side trail, cow path mix together, easy to walk on the wrong one.
Then the trail at (-40.33851, -71.98185) already taken back by forest, i still find some trace for trail(aluminium cans, wood cutting,etc), but it is not easy also not safe to walk. You need to walk on some groups of old blowdowns to (-40.33873, -71.98182) and rejoin the trail. The blowdowns itself or the gap between them, have a lot of big holes can eat your whole leg, most of the holes are covered by bushes and the blowdowns are a little slippery...
Then start climbing up at (-40.33909, -71.98165). All the ladders and wooden step are broken, also become a tarp for slide down. You need to climb up a loose sandy, muddy, grassy, steep slope that covered by lot of leaves. I have a feeling I'm still in GPT18 but in snow conditions climbing a overgrown snow slope...
At (-40.33978, -71.98141) rejoin a good condition dirt road, although it is shown in OSM, but I didn't see anything look like a road even a clear trail before climb up, so maybe south of the road also taken back by forest at some point. ( or the road going to some place that i don't know and not shown on map)
Then joined RR on a good condition dirt road.
I didn't see food truck at km23 that Martin & Helena said, maybe still not the season, or not open on weekdays noon.
Bridge[25.3/358] : Río Melipue flowing with lot of not clear water, a little yellow.
Then is a HOT, HOT HOT road walk steep up and down with lot of flies entangled in you, most of the time without tree shades, recommend hitch much more as you can. This part is not fun.
Km26.3 : junction of a private park, Parque Huishue. Some nice young care takers stay in the cabin behind the gate, they are very friendly and give me some water.
Camp[31.4/514] : good camping spot, don't camp too close to the lake(muddy). Lake with clear water. When you see the barbed wire fence, keep going 30-40m, you can go around some small blowdowns to get in easily.
Then my luck come, a friendly family give me a ride to Los Venados. Thank you save me from the hot nightmare. It is the second car i saw going west in the whole day.
Then my luck come the second time, Hector and Neri is at home(settle,food,refuge[45.4/537])! They help me refill my bottles with some priceless water! Huge thank you to them!
From km45.45, the road becomes a single track trail between some tall grass until km47.9, then it turns back to an old dirt road but lot of blowdowns, have to find a side trail for going around or just climb over them. And sometimes the road is flat and wide is good for camping.
Km53.1 : looks like is the old dirt road end, becomes a real trail, a broken old sign here too. Flat spot can fit 3 tents here. Some more flat spots just keeping forward, but need to take some minutes to clear out some sticks.
Water?[53.5/1330] : confluence point of three stream, but just muddy, no water.
Water?[53.7/1344] : because the water spot at 53.5 is dry, so i didn't check this one.
Km54.8 - km55 : camping spot at both side of the trail, also some more on dry riverbed.
Looks like Jens came here on a cloudy early morning, i found lot of water spot upon here.
At least 7 snow patches is melting beside RR and you can collect water from them, i just list out the biggest 3. These three snow patch still in a good size, i think can stand for 1-2 weeks more.
(-40.48984, -72.15159) : flowing good with a tiny waterfall (4sec/L) and puddle, you can dip bottles in puddle directly. Rocks in good shape for sitting nearby, so nice lunch spot with water here.
(-40.49050, -72.15348) : flowing good but stream is flat, collectable.
(-40.49142, -72.15752) : this patch is bigger also is flowing better than the first one, with tiny waterfall too! (3sec/L), easy to collect.
If these three are all melted completely, (-40.49351, -72.16296) have a huge snow patch as now, maybe this one can be a backup water source.
Km55.3 : view point for 6 volcanoes at left side, climb up to a tiny hilltop(-40.49068, -72.15235), if you are an exposed camping fans, flat spot can fit 2 tents 20m south of here for you.
Km56 : Geyser time! Explore this area, take your time. Follow the trail on OSM is a little better views of geyser than RR, also is safer i think.
After geyser then i go for {19-01} to hot spring.
{19-01} Km0.9, also a nice viewpoint on the tiny hilltop (-40.48937, -72.16603).
Km1.95 - km3.95 : walking in a green valley, lot of stream flowing with clear water, you can step over or rock hopping all of them, but mostly you will wet feet at last, because the trail crossing on a wet meadows(flowing water) and you have no way to go around. Also lot of camping spots you can find beside the trail in this area, but some of them still a little wet, maybe after one month will be perfect.
Km5.0 : go down into a valley that look dry, better collect water at here(upstream) or the previous valley, because downstream in this valley is hot spring water.
Km6.0 : alga in stream, and water temperature changes!
Km6.2 : camping spot(no wind protection) can fit 3-5 tents at right side, with an amazing hot spring pool(-40.46710, -72.20664)! PERFECT temperature with a pool can soak all your body inside when you sit down in the water. HIGHLY RECOMMEND camping here and take the hot spring before night, you can soak in the pool with a beautiful sunset too!
When i was enjoying the hot spring, a helicopter fly to here and landing, then some locals comes to join me too! Looks like it is a famous spot for them.
Hot spring water flowing all the way to downstream, so you can soak in it at the point you like. But temperature is dropping when it flowing, hot spring[6.8/1415] becomes warm water, good for noon under the hot sun, but not enough for night or early morning soaking. Trail leads you to hot spring[6.8/1415], then no more trail.
Then the ridge walk(OH-CC-A[6.8+6.5]) is fun and no difficulty, just climb up, go down and enjoy the views. Some snow patches, go around or walk on it easily.
Km7.45 : water spot(-40.46983, -72.21372), flowing low by a huge snow patch melts, clear but not easy to collect.
Km8.7 : water spot(-40.47824, -72.20501), flowing low by a huge snow patch melts, i saw water flowing when i was on trail but didn't get close to check.
Km11.25 : water spot(-40.49723, -72.19122), flowing low with clear water by a huge snow patch melts, i dig a puddle for dipping my bottles. Good water! Then rejoin RR.
RR km59 - km62.4 : go around lava fields, not difficult but lot of up and down, also need to go around some snow patches.
RR km60.6 : water spot(-40.52296, -72.17607), flowing low by a huge snow patch melts, clear but not easy to collect.
Km60.8 : climb the tiny hill(-40.52470, -72.17420) at left side, viewpoint of Volcán Cordon Caulle and its lava fields.
Km61.1 : water spot(-40.52673, -72.17332), flowing low by a huge snow patch melts, clear but not easy to collect.
Km61.8 : flat spot(-40.53143, -72.16976) can fit 2 tents with views of Volcán Puyehue.
Km62.7 : small geyser(-40.53782, -72.16450).
Km63.3 : better route going up to 1610m hilltop. Take the small valley at (-40.54327, -72.16187), climbing up gently, then turn right at (-40.54309, -72.16096), follow the valley all the way go to the top. I saw 3 cairns along this route.
Km65.4 : water spot(-40.55234, -72.14982), flowing low by a huge snow patch melts, clear but not easy to collect. I didn't see any more clear water for a while on trail after this one.
Km67.6 : snow patches. Walking on it and going to other side of valley. Then you can follow the GPX track or like me, walking on snow patch valley (-40.56967, -72.13232) avoid step over many gaps here, go to the junction of climbing Volcán Puyehue.
Climbing Volcán Puyehue on {19-04A} is a not easy route, steep climbing up on a losse tiny stones slope about 40°, when you get higher, it becomes more steep. Tired cilmb up, then i think it is a little dangerous to going back down at the same way, because too steep.
I didn't follow GPX track, because it looks really steep, i start climbing up beside a stick (-40.57372, -72.13363) at RR km68.25, then towards a little south(-40.57842, -72.12614) of the peak going up. Then join the ridge for last climbing up to the top. At about 1950m-2000m , you'll find some step trace that can follow all the way to top and easier to step on, but the ground becomes much loose when going up more. You also can follow them to going down after the summit.
Enjoy the views of crater, it is melting, but a blue lake in the middle, so beautiful!
At the top, {19-04A} is impossible to connect to south on the rim as now, because is blocked by a snow wall, but you can going down a little, go around it climb up again to the rim, if you really want.
From some observation at high, I find a SKIING ROUTE that can ski down all the way to pass[69.9/1764]. (This route is ski by shoes, not sit down and slide.)
It starts on 2110m(-40.57839, -72.12569), join snow slope here. Then skiing to SSW, water spot at 2035m(-40.58039, -72.12646), it is melting by the super huge snow slope you just ski down, i think it can stand at least one month or more. The water spot have a tiny waterfall, easy to collect. Fresh, clear, cold and taste good! I love this water!
Then step on the snow again at 2030m(-40.58108, -72.12689), now ski to SW, to 1945m(-40.58436, -72.12988), then 1900m(-40.58484, -72.13278), then 1835m(-40.58634, -72.13552)(it have a gap about 20m no snow), lastly ski to rejoin RR at km69.8. But i saw nothing there , so i ski a little bit more and find some walking trace at 1770m(-40.58640, -72.13791), looks like parallel to RR. I took about 35min from the start of skiing to here, including refill water bottles and finding the way on map.
I camped at (-40.58964, -72.13953), a little flat with some rocks that i can hold my tent on a sandy ground. A little off trail, but super amazing views of Volcán Casablanca, Volcán Puntiagido, Tronador, Lago Puyehue and Río Golgol, with a fantastic sunset moment!
From km70.4, you'll find a trail and cairns along RR, some of the trail is already landslide away and still covered by snow patches, but most of them is easy to follow.
Km70.55 : (-40.59245, -72.13560) flowing good by a super huge snow patch melts, milky but easy to collect. A black pipe leads water to other place too.
Km70.7 : water spot(-40.59349, -72.13423), flowing low with a tiny waterfall by a huge snow patch melts, clear and easy to collect.
Km71.6 : flat spot(-40.60105, -72.13406) can fit 2 tents. Someone camped here before, built a tiny rock wall, but too tiny I don't think it can provide wind protection in a really windy condition.
Km71.9 : junction. It is impossible to climb up or go down by {19-04A} at here as now, a huge snow wall about 60° block the way. Lot of water is flowing at here, main stream is not too clear, but you can find clear water from some smaller one. Upstream 15m for rock hopping dry feet crossing.
Then i took {19-H} going down, because RR looks like need to walking on some loose sandy slope. At (-40.60459, -72.13491) i find a clear trail that leads all the way to rejoin RR at km72.75. No landslide, no loose rocky or sandy, just walking on a grass slope easily.
Then RR is a clear trail in good condition to follow and walk.
Refuge[73.8/1378] : refuge with picnic table and fire ring, good spot for lunch and overnight.
Then RR still easy to follow but a little steep and a little slippery, i almost slipped down in several times.
Water[75.4/992] : flowing low with clear water, easy to collect. After here, trail conditions become better, no more slippery.
Water[76.1/884] : flowing very low with clear water, have some small puddles at upstream. A spot for climbing break, log seats and tree shades here.
Km77.9 : trail becomes dirt road, cars parking at here, some grassland flat spot with fire ring nearby.
Then all the way road walking go down to Licán and Anticura. Didn't met any people charge me for entrance fee.
I didn't see any shops nearby, just a restaurant at (-40.66624, -72.17463), you can go through their gate(-40.66843, -72.17218) to there. They provide good food and fast wifi. I look at their board, looks like they accept USD and EURO at here. (I don't know can money exchange or not)
- 2024-01-18 to 2024-01-21: Fangwen and Tobi / 4 days RR + Option 04A + Option 01 + Option 03 / NOBO hiking.
Great section with great views! Very enjoyable. Not much to add to the other reports. We took the bus to the intersection with the Puyehue hot springs, hitchhiked from there (not a great spot for hitchhiking, but it works). Didn't see anyone at the trailhead and hence didn't pay. We passed by a small steam on the way up, but I would not be surprised if it sometimes dries out. The first night, we stayed by the hut. A small stream made it's way to the hut in the evening, so we got lucky and could refill. Second day, we climbed up to the scenic crater via option 4a. The ascent through loose scree was a bit tiresome, but made for an awesome shoe-skiing descent. The "Water ?" at km68.6 was a snow covered stream, but we were able to get some water from a melting snowfield. We camped at km64.6. The next day we went via an interesting ridge hike to the hot springs (option 1), which is a river in a nice valley. There are multiple spots to get into the river, upstream is hotter. But it was a hot day, and the tabanos were relentless, so we moved on to camp in the next valley, at S 40° 29.078', W 072° 10.870' or roughly at {19-01} [3.0]. This is a beautiful valley with good access to drinking water (not sure about the hot springs -- I wouldn't drink that water). Just before rejoining the regular route, we marveled at the volcanic gas vents at S 40° 29.651', W 072° 09.651', or 100m W of km56.1. Even if you are not going to the hot springs (which you should!), make sure not to miss them. The descent was relatively unspectacular. We accidentally took an unintended route down (19-D I think?), but it wasn't an issue. Our plan was to hitchhike from km37.4 out to Lago Ranco, but it took over an hour to find a ride, since only few cars passed by.
- 2024-01-08 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + option 4a/ Jens
From what people have written before, I thought I would find a more impressive stretch. Up to Neri and Hector's house it is a gravel road in the forest with no views.
There is a bus from Currine at 2pm that goes all the way to Rupumeica Bajo. There may be more buses, I didn't ask.
Up to km 45 (Hector's house) there is a good water supply. Starting from the house ( their friend Erwin housitting, offered water). I only found water at the marked spot at about km 55. There was only a very small stream, more like a puddle that might dry up soon.
There was no water around the volcano until about 5 km from the refuge. The refuge has no water. The small stream next to it dried up a few kilometres before. Bring water from there if you want to stay overnight.
I climbed the volcano on the west side (option 4a). It was scree all the way up. I thought about turning back more than once, but the view was worth it. The descent on the other side was a bit easier. I "skied" down the snowy slopes.
- 2023-Dec-18 / 5 days / Packrafting / SOBO / RP + RR (Variant D, E) / Lauren & Sebastian
First things first: This section was absolutely spectacular!
Water: We filled our 3L of water each whenever we could and didn’t need to worry; snow from 1350m
We started packrafting at GPT19 start point but had to abandon Lago Maihue after 2km, as head winds were too strong. We hiked south on RH until a bus took us to Rupumeica Bajo. We stayed at the campsite ($) at -40.3143, -71.9913. The owners live in the house across the road.
The next morning we crossed with the packraft to wp Lake {19} [9.6/90]. From there it is a long but enjoyable hike along MRs to wp Bridge {19} [37.3/296] where we camped for the night. Recommend to hitchhike this part if you can, as the heat and heavy backpack (due to full food supplies), made this road walking tiring - and you will need your strength and endurance later! There is a water point at -40.3757, -72.0647.
The next day we went along RR and met Hector and Neri on our way to their place. They were heading out in their truck but we had a short and lovely chat with them. We passed the two locked gates on Option D and connected by Option E back on RR. We camped at -40.4721, -72.1247 at 1100m, a nice flat spot in the upper part of the forest. It is less than an hour from wp Water ? {19} [53.5/1330] where we refilled the next morning.
Breaking out of the forest into the plateau was breathtaking. Snow was mushy and walkable with trail shoes and hiking poles. Progress is slow. Keep a close eye on your gps to avoid backtracking. It took us 2 days to cross the plateau and we camped a night there with initially windy conditions that eased. There are a few good flat spots around the halfway mark on the plateau. Snow also gradually decreases after the pass and trail visibility improves. We then stayed a night at wp Refuge Without Water {19} [73.8/1378]. There is water at the refuge now, but filling up at one of the water points further up felt easier and more accessible to us.
From the refuge down to the end of GPT 19 is steep at first, but good and easily findable trail (approximately 3 hours).
- 2023-12-04 to 2023-12-07 / 4 days / Packrafting / SOBO /RR (Option 04A) / Roman
Hitchhiked to started packrafting here Port {19} [2.9/103] (Puerto Maqueo) easy access to water. Very good conditions (10:00 am). Went on land and followed the RR. Very good condition. Like in 02/23 locked gate and no one around at Hector and Neri’s place. Pitched tent at -40.480692, -72.135769. Snow starts at 1350m. Water was available. I would recommend having sunglasses (preferably glacier sunglasses), suncream, and a hat. The next 2 days were hiking on snow with constant snow exposure. The snow was a bit slushy but manageable. The trail was due to the snow not visible but you can just follow the GPS. Went from the RR via Option 04A to the Volcano and back. Slept at the Hut. Water was available due to the melting of snow. The way down is easy. Hitchhiked to Entre Lagos.
Overall: good trail, nice views no major challenges would definitely recommend it.
Contact: https://linktr.ee/RundW
- 2023-Nov-29 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / OH-02A + OH-02 + RR (Variant D, E and G) / Tom Pieper
I first attempted to make my way to the plateau by Option 02A. This is not possible as the entire lower trail lies within the private park Parque Futangeu. The entrance fee would be $15.000, camping is forbidden and access to the upper parts is blocked by private property of one of the park owners. Park is strictly fenced and has a guarda del parque. So this is definetly no Option for ascent but maybe for leaving the plateau NOBO. I easily catched a ride on Option 2 to the RR. The gate to Neri and Hectors place was locked, therefore i passed the two locked gates on Option D and connected by Option E back on RR. As others mentioned water is scarce all the way up, but a little creek can be easily accessed from Option D just 200 m after Option E has branched (S 40° 25.785' W 072° 06.839'). Good camping spots when Option G reenters RR. Saw wild boar nearby. Snow starts apruptly at 1300 m within the forest. Mystic atmosphere but hard walking. Lots of patagonian woodpeckers around. Snow increases gradually and I decided to leave my backpack near the Water ? {19} [53.5/1330] which was nearly covered by snow but provides already fresh water. At the rim of the plateau (1550 m) the views were spectacular but the plateau is impassable right now as it has meters of snow there. So I returned back the same way to Rininahue.
Season 2022/23
- 2023-Feb-04 to 2023-Feb-07 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Martin & Helena
Great section, after a lot of forrest trails it was nice to see again something totally different and quite similiar to the landscape of GPT06. We were a little irresponsible with the water so better plan carefully.
The beginning around the lake is just road walking with quite a lot of traffic, depending on the weekday, but its better to avoid it, we didn’t feel always safe with more cars passing by. There should be ferry that goes on the other side of the lake. Good restaurant at around km 2-3, the one with empanadas to go in the house above the restaurant (reealy good). We camped behind a gate at km 5.7, below one of the miradors. At Hueinahue we went down to the beach we have seen from the road, hoping to buy some food, but nothing was there except of crowds of people. We crossed the river to get back on the road, but it would have been better to return back really. MR continues for the next almost 30km, but its quite nice walking through forrest and around settlements. Food truck with empanadas and some drinks at km 23 was a nice surprise, but might be there only in summer. Great place to camp by laguna at km 31, but its shores are all muddy.
Bridge at km 37 is the last reliable source of water so keep it in mind! When we got to the start of option 03, there was only locked gate and no one around at Hector and Neri’s place. Because of that we went with 03, and after 2 locked gates joined the CC variant and back on the RR. There is probably some tiny stream at the CC part but not easily accessible. The way up on the RR already was relatively easy with a few fallen trees that you can always walk around. We were hoping to find some water at km 53.5 or the one next to it but it was all dry already, just like many creeks that we have seen over the treeline. This became a problem for us, and the first water we found was at the big plateau you have to descent to in order to continue to the lava field and further. We didnt turn left at the beginning but continued straight to a few snowfields that are still big enough and on a hot day we could gather water from the snowmelt. From that point its about half a day to the next water (close to the start of descent down to the refugio and valley) so again good to take as much as you can. We didn’t have to pay anything at the end of the section as someone told us, this might be the case only in NOBO direction, or it was because we went there later in the evening. We camped on a yard of family living across the road for 5k CLP, they sell some basic food and its possible to have a shower there as well. Bus to Osorno and Entre Lagos as well leaves early in the morning around 7 AM we think but rather ask.
Contact: @martin_hanzelka @helenneka
- 2023-JAN-10 - 2023-JAN-13 / 3 days / hiking / RR + volcan summit + termas - round trip from south / Louis, Rémi & Noé :
I wanted to precise one thing that I haven't understand : Santiago has a restaurant, near the road and a refuge (waypoint refuge no water). You have to check in at the restaurant to pay the 15k CLP /pers. This price includes a night in the refuge (there is nobody in there), access to volcano and a night at the camping near the restaurant (with cold shower for free).
Day 1 - Refugio El Caulle - 8km - +1000m/-0m First day going up to the refuge. We took the bus from Osorno, the only one going to Anticura leaves at 6pm but you have plenty of others going to Termas de Puyehue (going to Aguas Calientes). From there, 15km of hitchike, very easy. Then, the rise until the refuge in a beautiful and green forest. There is water upward the refuge, 15min walk.
Day 2 - Volcan Puyehue + camp El Domo - 13km - +1300m/-1100m The caldeira of the volcano is superb ! the path is well traced until the summit. Then, we did the round of it and went down on the opposite side. We camped at the "El Domo" camp, located on Santiago's map, around km XX. Water is available just before it.
Day 3 - Termas - 17km - +700m/-900m Under the rain, it's not easy to navigate on the volcanic plateau. I would say that a navigation device is mandatory. Hot springs are very enjoyable after such a day under the rain. There is drinkable water before the hot springs (1km).
Day 4 - Back to Restaurant El Caulle on RR - 32km - +1300m/-2400m A long day, even longer under the rain but doable. The restaurant was closed when we arrived (a Monday at 7pm). Santiago selled us basic food (pasta, sauce, eggs (a bit expensive)) and he opened the doors of his barn for us to sleep dry. The only bus going down from here to Osorno leaves at 7:30am.
- 2023-JAN / Frank
Option OH-001 crossing Rio Corrigue: this section barely exists as large parts have been taken back by bamboo. It is now a severe & sustained bamboo bash requiring huge effort to crawl, break & climb through at about 1 kilometre per hour. Try RR or other options instead.
- 2023-Jan-05 / 4 days / hiking / SOBO / RR / Frank
I came from GPT18. Before Lago Maihue there are a couple of small shops & a restaurant. As you go around Lago Maihue on the road there are a lot of $ campsites, then the road climbs high above the lake before dropping to Rio Hueinahue. I forded the river easily & went down to Camping Rupimeca at the lake, about 1KM off route. Good cheap campsite, no electricity but they will charge your phone at the house. Next day I continued to Hector & Neri's house but they weren't around. I went in on the alternative route which goes right on a road just before Hector & Niri's place. It's marked private with two locked gates but there was no one there. Stream near the road but difficult to access - running in a gully & blocked by vegetation. After several attempts I was able to access the stream higher up & camped nearby. Just before the alternative route rejoins the RR from Hector & Niri's house there is a stream, if you drop down right a few hundred metres from RR onto the alternative route here you can get water. The water sources marked near the treeline were tiny stagnant pools & they are a bit off trail. However, in early January there was plenty of water above treeline from snowmelt. Did the spectacular traverse in one long day. The snowfields could be traversed or avoided fairly easily. Fill up with water before you descend to the hut. There was no water at the hut & on the trail out to the road the marked water sources were only tiny trickles. Carry a few litres of water up to the hut if you are NOBO. There was no one at the entrance & I hitched out to Entre Lagos.
- 2023-JAN-28 - 2023-JAN-30 / 3 days / hiking / NOBO / Yannic & Mirjam
Much has already been explained in great detail, so we will be brief: We saw no one at the entrance and therefore walked through without paying an entrance fee. The two water streams in the forest are dry and there is no water directly at the refugio. However, there are still snowfields about 1-2 km further up from the refugio which provide enough water. There was still enough water at 68.6. After that, there were still isolated snowfields, but partly further away from the trail. We spent the night between the lava rocks at S 40.53312 / W 72.16869, as there were still snowfields there, which we used for drinking water. After that, there was no more water until we reached Neri and Hector's house. The two of them were so nice and filled up our water. They charged an entrance fee of 5,000 CLP per person. Because of language barriers, we weren't sure if it was voluntary or because we couldn't show a ticket from the other entrance. Anyway, we paid and moved on. Hitchhiking to Rininahue went quite well once you are on the bigger Minor Road T-851.
- 2023-JAN-26 - 2023-JAN-29 / 4 days / hiking / SOBO / Riñinahue (option 2) - Volcán Puyehue (option 4B) - Licán / Anna & Christopher
From Panguipulli we took a bus at 8:40 am to Los Lagos (on a thursday). From there we took another bus to Paillaco at 11:30 am and got off at the cruce Reumén/Futrono. The connecting bus to Futrono passed there around 12:20 pm. From Futrono we took a bus to Llifén at 13:15 pm. From there we hitchhiked until the junction of Option 2 with the RR at km 37 approx. and arrived there around 17:00 pm. On the way up to Los Venados there is one accessible creek approx. 2,5 km before Los Venados. When we arrived there the gate following the RR was locked. As we didn't wanted to dry camp (we didn't fill up our bottles at the creek) we tried to get access to the river following variant D. It's definitely not possible to get water there, the forest is too dense and its getting too steep to climb down. So we went back and luckily after a while Hector and Neri arrived. They offered us to stay at their Refugio the night as it was already quite late.
The way up to the plateau is a good path. We collected some water from the northern "water?" waypoint around km 53,5. As Véronica mentioned there are only some shallow pools, but with clear water. On the plateau there are still some creeks from the snowmelt, but not that many so better carry some water. Around km 65 we saw in the valley on the left hand side a nicely flowing creek (off the RR) and decided to camp there. Its a detour of about 15-20min.
The next day we woke up to a clear blue sky and therefore decided to climb the volcano and to take the surrounding variant. On the ascent we didn't follow the GPS, which was a bad idea, as we ended up in a steep scree traverse/sketchy rock climbing. So it took us a lot of time to reach the ridge. Once there we enjoyed the amazing views! Walking around the crater got more and more tiring with all the ups and downs, but it's worth it! It was our favorite section so far. We collected some snowmelt water on the descent and camped at the Refugio (no water there).
The path down from the Refugio is in good conditions. From Licán we got a ride directly to Puerto Montt.
Season 2021/22
Season 2020/21
- 2021-Dec-19 / Molly and Melissa / GPT21 Northbound - RR + ascent of summit:
4 days - skipping some of the gravel road along the lake
We went from Osorno to Puyehue, as the bus driver said that no buses went any further. From there we were quickly able to hitch a ride to Lican which is the start of the minor road. It's a couple of kilometres before Anticura. It would also be possible to walk, from Puyehue to Lican is about 10 km. We walked up to the restaurant and met a man who lives close by, he told us Santiago wasn't home, but he could take our payment. As others have written, Santiago wants to know the names and approximate schedule of everyone going towards the volcano. We slept at his camp site as well, it has flushing toilets and showers in a shed, it doesn't cost extra.
Volcán Puyehue:
In short: Snow is no longer a problem, but there is still enough to create little streams, so carrying 1-1,5 L of water each was fine for us. Beautiful but tough. Navigation is okay when using the GPS.
The first of the little streams marked as water on the GPS while climbing up through the forest was dry, the other was still running. We passed the refugio, which has quite a few bunk beds without mattresses. From there the path towards the volcano is quite clear through the grass, and is marked with frequent cairns further up so the navigation here is quite easy all the way to the top. We left our bags on the main route which was a good decision, it was very steep with very loose small volcanic rocks. The view from up there was amazing. When continuing past the volcano, there is a trail for about three kilometres more, but after that it's pure cross country. With the GPS it's not that hard to navigate, but clear weather is necessary and the terrain is tough, especially when passing between the lava fields. We found that the Locus Maps showed a different route than the GPS. We still found quite a few streams, especially when still near the volcano, if there's snow there's probably still some water. The snow is no problem for walking though. The first water? was pretty big and will probably last some time, but the second was really small, but there are several other streams as well. There's also more water in the afternoon when more snow has melted. All in all climbing from the camping, climbing the volcano and traversing the plateau took us two days of walking. It could be done in less, but would be tough. We got quite sunburned even though we used sunscreen, it's very exposed!
We had no trouble with finding the trail on the other side, it already starts being clear before reaching the forest. After that it's mostly just easy walking on gravel roads. When going northbound there is an alternative route around Hector and Neri's place that seems easier, we opted for the overgrown route to their house because we wanted to see if we could buy some bread, they didn't sell any though, but we had a nice chat with Hector as he let us through their locked gate. They later drove us about a kilometre when they passed us. The gravel road was a bit tedious and very hot, and hard to find good camping spots. The one marked on the GPS was behind a fence and some dense vegetation, but a little earlier it was possible to go through a gate to a little lake. We were told that there were many pumas and that we couldn't drink the water from the lake, we drank from a little stream going to the lake instead, and we didn't see any pumas.
Rio Hueinahue:
We were able to cross the river without problems, it went to mid- thigh height and we are both around 160 cm tall. The current wasn't too strong either. We have had quite a few warm, dry days before.
On the road along the lake we were passed by a bus going to Valdivia which we jumped on happily, so coming off the trail could not have been easier. It passed through Maihue and Futrono as well.
- 2021-Dec-03 / Alex Abramov / GPT19: Volcán Puyehue. Northbound.
The "Plateau" still has a LOT of snow.
Season 2019/20
- Feb 2020 / Matthieu / RR + ascent of the summit + OH to the Hot Springs, Northbound
Great section, amazing views, no technical difficulties with the trails and cross country..
- 16-01-2020 / Arnaud Debilly / Southbound 4 full days
After the forest, the volcanic terrain is very easy to walk in and the landscapes are wonderful. We saw many smokes from the volcanic activity but seemed not dangerous. Check the status of the volcano before to go (www.sernageomin.cl).
Season 2018/19
Season 2017/18
Season 2016/17
Resupply and Accommodation
Resupply and Accommodation in nearby Towns
- Small supermarket and frutaria in Curriñe in between section 17 and 18. Has everything for a resupply. Haven't checked for gas.
- Nothing in Rupumeica. Little shops in Maqueo and Maihue. A lot of camping sites, free and payable, along the Lago Maihue.
- 2023 -round trip from south / Louis, Rémi & Noé :
Santiago has a restaurant, near the road and a refuge (waypoint refuge no water). You have to check in at the restaurant to pay the 15k CLP /pers. This price includes a night in the refuge (there is nobody in there), access to volcano and a night at the camping near the restaurant (with cold shower for free).
To Restaurant El Caulle on RR - 32km - +1300m/-2400m. The restaurant was closed when we arrived (a Monday at 7pm). Santiago selled us basic food (pasta, sauce, eggs (a bit expensive)) and he opened the doors of his barn for us to sleep dry. The only bus going down from here to Osorno leaves at 7:30am.
Resupply and Accommodation along the Route
- 2023 / Anna & Christopher
Stayed at Hector qnd Neri Refugio for the night.
- 2020 / Martina & Ivo
In Anticura we found accommodation, but we didn't look for resupply, which is probably not so easy...
- 2024 / Quentin Clavel
There's basic ressuply in Anticura, at "Tia Olivia" at Lican, point "Food, Lodging {19} [81.4/345]" but it's really in case of emergency. Olivia is a very kind woman and has in stock Bread, cheese, big bottle of coca cola, some juices and frost empanadas that she warmup.
I was in emergency so I resupply there, but just to keep in mind it's not a minimarket or so, just a tiny tiny resupply possibility. Olivia is a charm we discussed a lot, and she even took from her personal reserve pasta and biscuits that make the next section easier in term of food !
There's a possibility to eat at the restaurant if the lodge/cabanas/camping, KM0,00 of the section (Lodging $$$ {19} [83.4/364]). Nice food, good atmosphere.
End of the section is easy to find camping / small mini market and even restaurant/food truck (in between Maqueo and Puerto Maihue (if you go further in Curriñe, there's bigger minimarket, easier o resupply there).
- 2020 / Arnaud Debilly
We ressuplied in Curiñe, with a minimatket there. We slept in the cabañas of Carmen Panguilef (+56 984 54 83 03) in rupumeica bajo who is very welcoming and a proud mapuche.
WATER : NO WATER at the first refuge down the volcano, you got to go a little bit further up and west. "Water 12?" wasnt working when I was though, but there was a last stream after before going west to the desert ( at the div 128).You have a good half day of walking without water, so take some supply with you. The water comes back just before the div 126, on a place which looks like a dry lake, with little streams coming down some frozen snow. There is another part without water, that begins a little after Div 126 until the refuge of Neri and Hector. I personnaly thought easy to find water in the forest and got really thirsty because of that. There was nobody in the refuge, so I could find water a few meters after the north gate of the house, following a little trail that went on the right side, directly in the forest and to the river. (A little bit of bush bashing at the end, next to the river). Further on the road down there was some other rivers and there and good camping sites. You join the real road at bridge 63 and no problems of water after.
Transport to and from Route
- 2023 / Martin & Helena
Bus to Osorno and Entre Lagos as well leaves early in the morning around 7 AM we think but rather ask.
- 2023 / Anna & Christopher
From Panguipulli we took a bus at 8:40 am to Los Lagos (on a thursday). From there we took another bus to Paillaco at 11:30 am and got off at the cruce Reumén/Futrono. The connecting bus to Futrono passed there around 12:20 pm. From Futrono we took a bus to Llifén at 13:15 pm. From there we hitchhiked until the junction of Option 2 with the RR at km 37 approx.
- 2021/ Molly and Melissa
We went from Osorno to Puyehue, as the bus driver said that no buses went any further. From there we were quickly able to hitch a ride to Lican which is the start of the minor road.
- 2020 / Arnaud Debilly
To avoid the 15 first kilometers we took the bus from puerto Maihue to Rupumeica Bajo.
- 2021 / Molly and Melissa
On the road along the lake we were passed by a bus going to Valdivia which we jumped on happily, so coming off the trail could not have been easier. It passed through Maihue and Futrono as well.
Permits, Entry Fees and Right-of-Way Issues
- You have to pay the entry of the private property in Lican, at the camping/restaurant of the base of the volcano (10 000 CLP). The owner is called Santiago.
Links to other Resources
Retired Section Article GPT19 - Volcán Puyehue
