GPT04 - Alto Huemul

• 2022-Dec-18-21 / Tomáš/ NOBO RR & SB OR

First I went from Terme del Flaco over the pass to Ruta-55. It is easy trail, almost all horse trail, not CC, but in parts overgrown at knee-height with those annoying spiky things, also dusty with little rocks Fallon ginto your shoes as it has not rained since ages. In the afternoon light it was quite scenic. There is a path going from the camping ground along the hot creek (see below) and then the river for about 1 km, then there is a bridge - nicer and shorter than the official route. It took me about seven hours of walking to get to the other side. There is a mine there (I think for cement) with cell reception and I think some 3g service. Then no coverage until Los Quenes. During workweek, there are lots of trucks with the mine material going to a junction 1 km from Los Quenes, so getting a ride should be easy. There is also some traffic towards the border, so a ride as far as this route follows the optional GPT05 track should also be possible, but could involve an hour or more of waiting. In Los Quenes, there are two shops, the first (on the right before you get to town from the direction of the mountains) is better stocked, it had some nectarines, no cherries. On Monday, restaurants were closed (the one marked in OSM at the exit of the town does not seem to exist), not sure about accomodation. Probably possible to stock for a week for GPT05 but it was not great, worse then Coya.

In the Termas, there was a camping at the end of the road that goes to the baths. 10000 per night. They had electricity, it went out for a few hours during evening but I charged everything. They also have wifi, slow but usable for audio calls. No cell service. The baths cost 6000 per entry (no re-entry). Hours are something like 8-12 and 1530-21. Longer on weekends. The shops that I have seen did not seem well stocked but there are lots of restaurants. From the camping ground, if you follow the water, there is a free hot creek with perfect temperature, about 30 metres far.

As for transport, I got a shared car for about 15000 (it is two hours ride) from San Fernando at 1530 on Friday after asking at the bus station. I do not think it goes every day. There are cars going in both directions in the valley, so hitchiking should work, but be prepared to wait. Due to me losing some stuff, I went back - twice I got a first car in five minutes, once eight cars passed and I only got a ride after two hours. Outside of the weekends, there is less traffic that goes all the way to the Termas. No cell reception in the valley until cca 10 km out of Puente Negro.

RR NOBO from Los Quenes is uneventful. The valley is quite beautiful with trees and lovely creek until about 1700, then the track (no snow now) was easy to follow but during midday rather dull including the lakes. It started to be pretty again at about the same height. Met a huge herd of goats with a silent ariero. I got over the same gate as Yannic and Mirjam, ate a few cherries from the new orchard (a few branches were overhanging the fence), then followed the MR without paying anything (I guess they meant the gate with the house and sign saying that some basic food is on sale about 3 km from the tarmac road) going NOBO. Once I reached the tarmac road, I started hitching (enough of cars), never making it to Aqua Buena and not meeting Pedro. Took me 46 hours.

• 2022-Dec-11 / SOBO / RR / Martin & Helena

We started in the afternoon at the property of José Pedro (see our comment from the last section) who showed us a little different way than the beginning of RR with saying the owners changed since the trail was established and it might be problematic to get on the trail through some gate? We are not sure bc we decided to follow Jose’s advices and didn’t even try to start on the RR. His way should be a little shorter and easier, its basically the same direction to the bridge as RR but more on the left side. You just aim at the highest mountain visible in that direction, half way on the hill, and always stay on a clear path - anything else got us off after all. We lost the path a few times and ended up close to the top of the hill from where we got clear view over the farms. You just need to get down and from there you actually connect to the RR. In one point you get to a natural “fence” made out of branches that goes around the farm and thats the only time when you should go into it, just for a short time.. then there is a short section through the cherry farm (sufficient hole in the fence) and after reaching one of the main gates which was opened its easy walking down the road to the bridge.. we met even some cars with workers and there were plenty of cherries everywhere in this time of the year. We crossed the bridge at night already and therefore had to camp close to the road to Las Peñas, but there are some cabanas to spend the night in.

With everything closed in Las Peñas in the morning we continued further to the Laguna. José Pedro arranged the entrance for us the day before but we don’t know if it was necessary, we ended up paying 8000$ each which is double of what other hikers paid and some of them probably got in even without paying. Anyway señora Rosa who is working at the entrance and lives in the house was amazing, we bought some drinks from her and even got a little breakfast (pan + coffee) before continuing. Toilets and water after the entrance. The first laguna was not very interesting with a lot of noisy locals so we continued further, really nice hiking all the way to the pass. As mentioned, the track files are not 100% accurate in some places (farm fields changed) but we managed to find the way, only one gate had to be jumped over. Lot of cherries everywhere. We spent the night before the pass. Laguna was really nice and overall no problem with the descent down to Los Quenes, eventhough its a little up and down all the time. One more night before we got to the village, so 3 nights in total. Los Quenes really surprised us in a positive way - the restaurant Pamela is great, we rented a cabana from them as well for 35k. 3-4 shops in total with good selection of things. Amazing cafe place, the pizza place is really good as well.

• 2022-Nov-16 / Yannic & Mirjam/ SOBO / RR

After having a relaxing rest day at Pedro's, we set off for GPT04. Although Pedro explained the route in detail, we got confused in the terrain and ended up going into the plantation. Optimal would be to start on the trail behind Pedro's house over the hills. Then follow the trail of GPT04 as soon as you reach it (plantations on the right). This way you avoid gates and crossing plantations for the most part. On the boring road to Las Peñas we made hitchhiking which worked well. From Las Penas just follow the Minor Road. At the gate you have to pay 4000 CLP/person. Just say that you are on your way to Los Quenes. Some small plantations have been newly built, which is why the road does not correspond to the GPX. Before the minor road ends, a small trail goes off to the left where there is a gate. We were able to climb through the gate at the bottom. Nice camping spot at (-34.80711, -70.76521) near the water. Good trail for the climb up to Laguna Fria. There were still a few snowfields on the pass, but they are easily passable. We spent the night on the northern shore of Laguna Fria (near rock wall at -34.87688, -70.74425) because may was better protected from the wind there. There was still a lot of snow before the descent to the second lake. We therefore walked along the ridge and then descended further ahead to the lake. Track.is not yet in the official GPT GPS files. But the trail is marked on the regular map. Descent was steep, but the trail was in good shape (easy cross country) Camp{04}[53.4/852] no longer exists. However, 500m before there is a bigger camp with tables and benches. 500m later (at -34.98982, -70.75429) a smaller one with a simple fireplace. Both directly on the river.

• 2021 Nov-28-30, SOBO, RR, Kris&Stiina

We started from Agua Buena around noon and tried to follow Franks suggestion, but after a few hundred meters where the road turns left we encountered a gate with four angry dogs behind it, otherwise the gate would be climbable.

We turned back and from the main road entered an open gate to a cherry farm in hopes to find a different route to meet the RR. There we met a nice old lady Victoria, very talkative she invited us in for a cold drink and said that through her farm it’s unfortunately impossible to pass through because of the bushes and fences, but she called her friend Pedro Jose who owns a land behind the cherry farm that we couldn’t pass earlier.

We went to meet Pedro at his house and he turned out to be a really nice guy, very friendly and spoke good English because he had lived in Finland for 10 years. He also invited us in and we discussed the route among other things. He then guided us on a ninja-path, through the back bush of his and his neighbors land. He said that that guy probably wouldn’t open the gate for us, who knows. After climbing over and under two barbed wire fences we were on the route.

Jose Pedro told us about a better faster route to get to Las Peñas but we opted for following the RR which was a big mistake. The first few km were fine but then it turned into a proper bush-whacky thorny adventure. Imagine one of those military training practices where people crawling in a dirt under a barbed wire, that’s how it felt at times. It was not fun and we wouldn’t recommend it to anyone. Pedro’s recommendation was to go through the cherry/fruit farms to reach the road that is on the northern bank of Río Tinguiririca and follow that to the bridge over the river.

Pedro allowed us to share his phone number (+56 961 357 353) in case other hikers might need help getting around the fences. Write him a phone message or on WhatsApp (don’t call), mention that you are hiking the GPT, when you are in Agua Buena. He doesn’t have a car and cannot give any rides. But he offered to host hikers at his property, you can put up your tent, have a hot shower, use kitchen and charge your electronics, all for 10.000 pesos.

Sign before the bridge said private property - entrance forbidden. We went anyway and didn’t meet anyone who would turn us back. There is a small shop and a bus stop at the turn where you get on to the dirt road about 5km from Las Peñas. We didn’t want to walk in a sandstorm - because of the amount of dust generated by the passing cars - and decided to hitch that part right away which was an easy hitch. In Las Peñas there are about 5 campsites and a small shop, but they are not as good as in Agua Buena. We were lucky to arrive there on Sunday and not a day or two earlier when all the campsites are filled with party people, everyone was leaving as we arrived.

We stayed in Don Bosco campsite for 8000 pesos for two, which is a very cozy Christian campsite, with pool. We think it’s a good option in case of weekend arrival as it might be more peaceful there. By the time we arrived people were already leaving and we were the only people on the whole campsite.

At the shop(minimarket) in town there is a pizza menu poster and you can order a delicious pizza to Las Peñas which we did.

After leaving Las Peñas there is a gate in about three kilometers whch we think charges people who go to see the little laguna with waterfall a bit further up the road. When we got there the gate was closed because of the road-widening excavation works. But after explaining ourselves to a nice lady that was in charge there she let us through and didn’t ask for any fees.

The climb over the pass to the lakes was very long but plenty of shade and water on the route.

We stayed at the first lake - Laguna Fria/Guzman, very beautiful but a bit windy, some firewood can be found hidden behind the boulders close to the campsite at the end of the lake, but it was too windy for fire. We also think this was the better of the two lakes to camp at the other one was very wet all around. There was also an unmarked small lake/pond on the way to he second lake, looked more sheltered in case of really bad weather.

The downhill from the second lake was brutal, very steep and no actual trail, once the steepness eased off and trail appeared it was overgrown. Luckily our complaints were heard and a few km later we met an arriero who was doing a trail-maintenance and cutting all the bushes around the trail, after that it was pretty good. But don’t think it’s an easy walk out of the valley all downhill, it’s a roller coaster with fords until you get sick of it. Last 6km are very walkable though.

Section took us two and a half days.

Nevertheless, we missed the last bus to Curico and stayed at the Los Pinos campground in Los Queñes. 6000 per person, cold shower included, the guy working there was very nice and helpful. Town has a few shops, with limited resupply options, town also has a problem with stray dogs.

There are 5 buses a day to and from Curico first is at 7:30, last is at 18:00 cost is 1700 pesos pp. it’s about 45min drive.

It’s time to have a rest day before heading out to section 5 and 6.

For more stories of the trail, pictures, videos and in case you want to ask us anything you can find us on Instagram: @smallfootprint_bigadventures

Greater Patagonian Trail, section 4

Aguas Buenas Valley, by Benoit Mirouse.

• 10 January 2020 Frank RR Southbound, 2.5 days

I thought it would be an easy hike from Agua Buena to Las Penas. It isn't. At Agua Buena 500M from start is a fruit farm with no entry sign. No one @ the gate & it was unlocked so I went in. Met the owner & he wasn't too happy to see me but after a discussion I was allowed through. If you go 500M beyond the start in Agua Buena on main road there is a dirt road which branches right just as the main road goes left. The dirt road should come in to join RR just where you exit the fruit farm, allowing you to avoid going through the farm. You soon leave the dirt road & go down on small trails into thorn scrub. The scrub is thick & if you don't get the navigation exactly right you won't get through. After about 6KM RR goes through another fruit farm. I got in @ low point in fence but had to crawl under fence to get out. It would be easier to stay outside the fence (handrail it) & rejoin RR after the farm.

You cross Bridge 5 into another fruit farm, no entry sign on bridge. As you leave the farm there is a house, they might not let you in here if you are Northbound. Just after you get to the road there is a shop. 3 campsites (paid camping) & 3 shops in Las Penas, last one does small meals. About 2K later you pay 3000 CLP entry fee @ a gate. Camped @ Water 25. There is one place with water beyond that but nowhere else to camp until the lakes. Lakes are nice but no shade & no wood. I would suggest road walking the first section to Las Penas or get the bus (see updated transport section)

• Start Date: December 20, 2019
• Section: GPT 04 Southbound
• Duration: 3 Days
• Name/Alias: Ian Hikes
• Overview: If hiking southbound this is the first section where it really starts to get green and the pine trees start to appear more frequently. The first section is dominated by dirt roads with paying campsites, cabins, puestos and other developments. Later you go over a large mountain pass with sweeping views in all direction completely above the tree line. Finally, you follow the valley into Los Quenes which in a nice little town to resupply in. The town has a small supermarket with many food options along with a few restaurants. These include pizza, sandwiches and empanadas. The plaza in the center of town also has free access to WIFI which I used while I was there.
• Difficulties: Exposed mountain pass. Route finding
• Highlights: Sweeping views. High mountain passes and lakes.
• Please feel free to reach out and ask me any questions at Ultratrailca@gmail.com

• 2019-Nov-30 / Martina & Ivo / Regular route southbound

4 days, low water levels, no snow, trails in excellent condition. ...and food and accommodation in Los Queñes :-)

• 2019-Dec-09 / Matus & Anna / Regular route

We started in Las Peñas (we took Uber there from San Fernando). It took us 2 days. Trail is in good condition. Some parts on the descend are slightly overgrown, but still easy to follow. There is enough water on both sides. Accomodation, food and tiendas in Los Quenes.

Resupply Town

Shopping: Food

Shopping: Fuel

Shopping: Equipment

Services: Restaurants

Services: Laundry

Services: ATM and Money Exchange

Accommodation: Hostals and Hotels

Accommodation: Cabañas

Accommodation: Camping

Transport: Ground Transport

Transport: Ferries

Transport: Shipping Services

Resupply on the Trail

Location, Names, Available Items and Services

Access to Start

Bus every half hour in daytime from San Fernando to Agua Buena. 5 buses a day from San Fernando to Las Penas, first one leaves San Fernando @ 11:30.

Return from Finish

Attached bus timetable obtained in January 2020 File:Quenes.jpg

Escape Options

Regular Hiking Route

Regular Packrafting Route