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Overview

Section Log, Alerts and Suggestions

Season 2025/26

Season 2024/25

• 2024-03-13 to 2024-03-22 / 10 days / Hiking / SOBO / New High route Option "Glacier Universidad+Tinguirica/ Natalie & Tomáš

See Highlights and warnings and photos on the Facebook post:

Route details:

Section 01: Road from Coya to Lago Pejerrejes

We weren't even out of Coya yet before we got a hitch. We were extremely lucky, without even trying our driver changed his plans and drove us all the way to Rio Cortedral, just past the Carabinero's house. If you do have to walk this route, note that there is no water until the Carabineros. The Carabineros did not come out which is good because last time I was in this area they stopped me and did not allow me to make a traverse, I was forced to come back the same way- then again I didn't try too hard to convince them. But it's a warning that they can make you come back. Rio Cortedral is popular for fishing and has many car camping sites. So with that, and the Puma Lodge and the hydro site, I don't think the term "it will take a hitchhiking miracle" from wikiexplora is correct, it isn’t that hard to get a hitch. The walking up to Lago Pejerrejes was very fast, mainly on a MR closed to cars by hydro gates, -34.38279, -70.32093. The MR disappears off and on just before the lake because of the landslide in 2017 but there is still a trail. Look for cairns just before a ditch. We made camp in a small corner before the lake.

Section 02: Lago Pejerrejes to Lago Cortedral

When trip planning I was unsure if it was possible to walk around the lake but luckily in March water levels were low and we were able to make it. We went around the left side (North) of the lake to avoid two extra fords. It involved some boulder hopping and there was a cliff at the end that forced you to make a small ford. We think that even if water levels were roughly 1m higher this would still be okay (the cliff part is questionable), but 2m higher would be difficult. The right side of the lake looked like easier walking as long as the two fords were doable (In mid March they looked easy). At the end of the lake there is a long stretch of river flats where the river is very braided. In the beginning it is easy to walk through the divides but near the end the current is stronger so best to stick close to the left. We had lunch at the end of the river flats in the shade of a small boulder. From here we stayed on the left-hand side of the river until needing to ford here, -34.55496, -70.21173 just before the left side gets too steep. This was decided based on satellite imagery that showed an old MR and lots of cow trails on the left. However, having said that, I don't think the right side is impossible, if in earlier months a ford is not possible, there are still some cow trails.

Anyways, if you stay to the left as we did there was a very old MR for a bit which eventually turned into one dominant trail most of the way. It was easy to loose but luckily if you lost it there were usually many other cow trails leading in the direction you want. Also there was water every 3-5km. Near the beginning, you mustn't miss the apple tree! -34.50068, -70.23678. Never have I had such good wild apples in Chile. They were baseball size and ripe! Continuing on the left side of the river, the only main annoyance was a deep ravine, -34.53944, -70.21944. Before getting here we saw a good trail that went down to the river but didn't take it- we should have. Therefore, before reaching this ravine, get down to the river when you can, there were cow trails along the river side. You eventually hit the second of the river flats where the planned ford is. Unfortunately the river is not as braided as expected. At the end of the day there is only one spot in which it is dividend into two. You could possibly ford at the beginning of this section because it is flatter than higher up but we went further to where the one divide is. To get there we had to go up and side-hill the river bank for a bit and then ford a two branch red stream. In the evening the river was too strong to cross so we waited for the morning.

In the morning the current was still very strong. I only managed to find one place to cross. It was the end of a two split divide, I was able to walk along the end of the split where the water was more shallow just before it hit the main current again -34.55496, -70.21173. It was strong but the ice cold water may have been the hardest part. After crossing and climbing up the obvious hill on the right there is another dominant trail which you can take all the way to the stone house -34.59599, -70.23499. Easy to loose but easy to find again. Along the way there is a nice creek crossing, -34.57832, -70.22596. The stone house is under a massive boulder you can see from far away, it is very interesting and a very good shelter, lots of neat rocks in the area. After the stone house the trail exist for a very short time and then it is CC on rocks through a moraine/flood valley underneath Paloma. I chose to go up to these lakes -34.61312, -70.24377 and then cut back down to the river, not sure if walking along the river is easier or not. The next objective was to cross the convergence of the Lago Cortedral stream and the larger stream from the glacier. The fords were easy (first one here -34.63766, -70.25730) and then we stuck to the right side of the Lago Cortedral stream keeping our sandals on for the many micro fords. Eventually the micro fords end and you can walk normally up the rest of the boulder made hill. At the top of the main hill the route to Lago Cortedral goes right but we chose to continue straight up towards the other nameless lakes bcs Google earth said there were hot springs. We did not find any in the labelled location so we retreated to the first lake to camp -34.65144, -70.25254. There was little wind here on a rather windy day.

Section 03; Lago Cortedral to Glacier Universidad

I needed a longer rest in the morning so from camp Tomáš went back up to look for the mystery hotsprings (don't exist) and I went back down to Lago Cortedral to avoid gaining unwanted elevation. The drainage on Lago Cortedral is easy to hop over if you want (low water levels) and there is a bivy camp on the west side -34.65680, -70.26256. The map made it look like you cannot walk along Lago Cortedral but with low water you can, it just involves moderately steep boulder hopping. Take the east side, not the west side. If you have high lake levels it would be best to walk up and along the hills on the east side. I met Tomáš on the other side of the lake and made a plan for the pass. Originally we had two options for the pass. Option A (we didn't do) is here; -34.66929, -70.28846. It would involve gaining the left hills to the east of the lake and making a big C curve to avoid super steep terrain. In real life it did not look good so we went with Option B; -34.66483, -70.29063. Option B is less steep but it leads you to a recently melted glacier on the other side (aka terrible rock). Going up this option was easy. It was a series of three moderate slopes, all just involved walking on stones/boulder's. The last water source is at the beginning of the first slope, -34.66176, -70.27682. There is also a glacier lake somewhere between the first and the second slope that could perhaps serve as a high camp (off route, seen on satellite). Remember to veer left after the second slope towards the third slope to gain the correct pass. The other side of the pass is far worse. It took us three hours to make a final decision to go down it, luckily we had no wind this day. Tomáš went down the steep scree/dirt here;___. And I went down the human Jenga pile of boulders further west, it felt like Russian roulette. Tomáš's way was more logical and he was able to create good foot steps (a small patch of ice made it a bit harder). My way was more risky but it "felt" better, it just took a few times to figure out where the solid rock was but the overhead hazard was horrendous. Some of the boulders were couch sized and only barely balancing on one other rock. Snow would make this impossible without an ice axe. ***I don't recommend doing this if you are uncomfortable/inexperienced with the risk of loose boulders and or steep scree/dirt. Once down the steepest 15-20m the feeling of Russian roulette was over but the terrain was still awful. The rock continued to be very loose, it took a long time to cover a short distance. However after that the going was easy towards the next lake. There is a moraine before the lake that is steep on the other side, we went to the far right (north) of this moraine and it was walkable. We slept by the nameless lake on flat sand and large boulders nearby.

The next day we headed to Glacier Universidad (UN). You can boulder hop on either side of the lake, both ways looked similarly slow. At the end of the lake you can climb up to your right if you wish for a nice view of the glacier, there is a beautiful tarn and some nice camping spots -34.68159, -70.31833. It also looks like you could continue going up from here to a summit, something for future adventures. From this vantage, it also looks like our alternative way down through the lakes of the sierra negra valley could be possible via this pass -34.69715, -70.31060, but it would be a lot steeper than what we previously did (this is the alternative that would avoid the glacier). Anyways, continuing down boulders from the lake to the skinny lake below is easy if you stay to the far left of the creek. The skinny lake below is a beautiful haven, but the moraine bordering it is hell. Trying to get down the other side of the moraine looked like a death trap, but luckily there was an opening on the far south side of the skinny lake, -34.69269, -70.32418. This opening is loose and dirty but it didn't feel dangerous, just slow, and it brought us down to the glacier ice. There is one more small moraine to cross before GU proper but it was easy. Hopping on to GU just involved finding the right place, which may change every year. Once on GU the walking was easy, no crampons needed as in mid day it was very crunchy. There are many deep waterholes and at least one fairly large crevasse, but the slope is minimal and everything was easy to see and avoid but this can easily change as this glacier is melting fast. Note***technically you are supposed to have permission from, info@glaciaresdecolchagua.cl,but we didn't see anybody. The end of the glacier was more of a puzzle than expected. We side hilled the brown slope on the right (rocks over ice, but still firm) until a left finger that led us down to the main glacial stream which we crossed to stay on the left-hand side. From then on it was a maze through glacial debris hills and ice walls for a few hundred meters. I am sure the route changes a bit every year so you will have to find your way. Finally we exited and knew for sure we did not have to go back - yay! The last 2-3km towards the road is flat and easy. There may have been a trail at one time, as sometimes it feels there is a reminisce of one, but it is mostly CC. There is an old yellow puesto/refugio near the entrance of the sierra negra valley that has been hit by a massive boulder, quite an interesting site but I hope nobody was in there!! From the road/dam/bridge we walked down ~5km to the bottom of the zig zags to camp near the main hydro building with a stream besides it.

Originally we had planned to try and go up the valley of San Hilario and cross over to the Rio del Azufre valley but the pass and valley itself looked uncomfortably steep. I saw animal trails to the pass on satellite but after seeing the hill in real life I assumed it must have been guanaco trails, not always suitable for humans with backpacks, but maybe it's possible?

Section 04; Los Maitenes (Hydroplant road) to Base of Tinguirica

Since our original plan of going up San Hilario valley was a no go we decided to go for Tinguirica and Termas del Flaco via the valley of Arroyo Fray Carlos. The ~12km of road down to the Arr. Fray Carlos from camp was fast but hot and unpleasant. We saw 7trucks and one machine going up between 9-11am but we only had one truck going down, which gave us a hitch for ~2-3km. Supposedly 20-40people work at that hydro station so if your timing is better than ours, a hitch shouldn't be hard. We took the spur road on the left just after the bridge over Rio de Azufre and rested by the Arroyo before starting the hot climb. There is a wooden gate that marks the start of our route ___. There were many animal trails but we just went straight up (bring water). We met the proper trail here -34.80209, -70.46644 , it takes you to this slope -34.80241, -70.46049 but then it becomes difficult to follow. It became obvious again where it goes along side the river -34.81444, -70.44820. I was feeling very ill so we stopped at a nice place to access the river and potentially camp -34.81570, -70.44709. We saw Arrieros crossing trails high up on the other side of the river, they must of been taking this exit point -34.80631, -70.46378. In the evening we walked a little further to the point in which you want to cross the river -34.82272, -70.43865 and camped.

It was easy to find the main trail on the other side of the river and walk it until meeting it again near a puesto -34.83423, -70.42198. This is what I call the "trifecta of valley's". It is where the Arroyo Fray Carlos meets Arroyo de las Humos and to some extent Estero los banos. We crossed Los Humos near the puesto and then Est. Los Banos and headed up the Banos valley in search of hot springs. There was a good trail up, it started on the right and quickly crossed to the left and stayed left almost all the way until crossing once more near the waterfall which the hotsprings are -34.84819, -70.40818. After a surprisingly nice dip, despite mid day heat, we chose to continue our route towards Tinguirica by going straight up from the hot springs. When we hit the large sheep pasture above the hotsprings, we chose to continue straight (East) and into the valley just left (North) of the Est. Los Banos and follow it until meeting Los Banos again. Another option from the sheep pasture would be to go high along the left side and meet Los Banos further up, I think that may have been faster but less scenic. For our way, from the meeting of the Est. Banos we then followed it until a high plateau under Volcano Los Carlos -34.85633, -70.38076. We camped there and enjoyed an early evening in preparation for Tinguirica. (Lots of water throughout this day).

Section 05; Tinguirica to Termas del Flaco

A technically easy mountain that can be done without glacier travel via the west slope. We started by going straight up from camp aiming for a slope left of the glacier above us -34.84223, -70.36944. It involved quite a bit of large, loose boulder hopping but it was the most direct way from our camp. There is a large dried water bed after that climb that could serve as a camp. From there we were on track of the Tinguirica regular route (RR) which led us north of the flats and then up right and over to the source of Arr.Fray Carlos (only viable water source but may be frozen). After the Arroyo it was a long traverse down to below Tinguirica's glacier bottom (just a little under 3800m). The route we had on the gps went further down to ~3700m because of a deep ravine but we found a good snow bridge to save the elevation -34.82685, -70.36107. After that and after crossing below a cliff that was above we started the accent. It was easier to veer up and right to the only flattish spot and then directly up to the false summit. The rock up is annoying but easy and it didn't feel dangerous despite getting more steep near the top. For me this was a grueling climb due to the altitude and once at the top I knew I had to go back down quickly. This was a shame bcs the views were fascinating, especially looking towards the site of the Uruguayan plane crash. Tomáš had no issues with the altitude so he chose to take a different way back via Volcán Azufreras. This may be the standard approach but it did involve walking on the glacier a bit._____ We met back at the Arr. Fray Carlos only to separate one more time as Tomáš went up his third 4000er' of the day, Volcán Fray Carlos. I was still ill of the thought of going up to 4000 again so I headed towards Volcán Natalia where I would meet Tomáš one more time (The name made this Volcán a must for us). We were determined to get there while staying around 3500m, which is more or less like the RR. The only issue we had was the snow/glacier around -34.84497, -70.37097. You must go down the side of it where it meets the moraine, it is somewhat of an ice stair case with lots of rock fall potent beside you. Besides that the traverse was easy CC and the summit of Natalia was very simple and quick with beautiful views. It would make a good acclimatization destination. We then CC'd back to camp just before dark on talus, boulders and sand.

The next day was a bit of an unknown. Our mission was to get back to Termas del Flaco on traíls but the easiest way would have been to go down the RR and then walk the road, but the road looked dreadful. Tomáš was sure there would be Arriero trails leading directly to Termas del Flaco and sure enough he was right. Our goal was to get to this valley -34.91315, -70.41992 somehow via the steep slope of Arr.del Guanaco. We had three different ideas of getting there; An unlikely ridge that would avoid the steep traverse, a random Wikiloc entry that went down a very steep pass, and or our original idea of traversing the whole slope starting at a low pass on the far west side. It took us most of the day just to get to the first ridge option (easy CC to the creek bed of Arr.de Los Humos, then up a moraine and a short steep boulder climb to -34.88646, -70.39137, and then CC up and down boulders and moraines to the ridge,-34.90205, -70.40530, (lots of small ponds along the way for water). The ridge was definitely a no go. We then looked at the Wikiloc idea, -34.91023, -70.42133, it "may" have gone but neither of us liked it. Therefore we went to our third (original) idea which was surprisingly easy to get too if you stayed low. The way there passed an incredibly beautiful lake -34.88423, -70.41428. At this last pass there was a horse trail- yay. We will devise a better route that goes directly to here from Basecamp and even more direct, the Puesto inbthr lower valkey. At this pass the horsetail only lasted a few switchbacks until it became confusing to follow due to the MANY sheep trails. While going down we could see there were two options of getting out of the valley; the steep traverse here -34.91023, -70.42133, (which from afar looked only like a sheep trail) and or a more dominant one roughly here -34.90538, -70.42522, (dominant but we were unsure exactly where it led). We made camp in what looked like a perfect green plateau but it was totally wet, and Tomáš went up to explore the first option. He found out that it was a horse trail at the top with a cairn so we opted to take that one the next morning.

Post altitude sickness and stomach issues were still plaguing me so the way up was torture, but it was technically easy. We had to CC straight up the slope for ~300 meters until meeting the main horse trail (soft sand). We think there is no main horse trail the whole way because after a certain point most of the horses/arrieros just go straight down. We guess this because we met an Arriero on the way up doing that exact thing. The arriero we met was coming to begin the process of moving the sheep down for the winter, there was another down below. The arriero came up the valley we were heading too but bringing the sheep down the valley we saw the dominant horse trail in (so there must be a good trail down there as well). After chatting we continued to the top which from there one can see the main trail down "most" of the way. There is a nice spring not far from the top. The route down is easy to loose in the grassy sections (like always) but it is easy to find again. It stays on the left (east) side but crosses the creek to the right at a grassy horse pasture to avoid the steep landslide on the left. It then traverses for a short period on the right along dirt before crossing the creek one more time towards an annoying section of hard dirt and rock on the left. There are a few ditches that are annoying and edgy to cross and the going is slow. The last ditch we crossed is slightly higher up than expected ~ -34.94271, -70.42011 and from then on it is easy dust/dirt walking towards the intersection of the Dinosaur trail and Termas del Flaco. The dinos are a must see and only takes a ~20-30min detour, -34.95566, -70.42474. After that it was FINALLY down to the Termas- yay!. The shops in del Flaco are very simple and meant for snacks, so not a good place to resupply for more than a few days. If you are lucky there is a man who sells fruit here -34.95830, -70.43705 some mornings but not every morning. We went to the camping near the free hotspring "wastewater" location Tomáš stumbled upon two years ago (read his post on GPT04, 2022/23. The camping was very busy as it was a Saturday and so were the free hotsprings. Very different than what Tomáš experienced two years ago. We wonder how the payed Hotsprings stay in business, there were at least 30people there. The camping is 10mil pp and has a restaurant with improved WiFi (no cell signal in town). However, due to late night Chilean noise we decided to leave the camping and camp outside town because we hadn't actually payed or set up our tent yet... In the end Termas del Flaco makes for a great place to end such an adventure but do note that it is COMPLETELY closed by the end of April***. Also note that there is not much fresh food to buy and the best bang for your buck would be sleeping at a hospedaje (~45mil including 3-4meals). But camping near the free Hotsprings is nice too if it is not too busy:).

Note*** the road to Termas del Flaco is technically one way and therefore you can only:

"Leave"; Mon-Sat between 5am-7am and Sundays between 2pm-9pm.

"Arrive"; Mon-Sat 6pm-9pm and Sundays 6am-12p.

It seems the closer to the ends of those times the more relaxed the control is, we got a hitch out at 1:30ish. Buses "to" San Fernando go every day; Mon-Sat @ 7am, and Sundays @2:30pm.  

• 2024-JAN-8 to 2024-JAN-11 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + Hiking Option 3, 6, & 6A / Elijah & Michael

Trail south from Camp Huinganes [9.2 / 865] is well maintained. An Arrerio the next day asked if we had payed at the entrance of the camp, which we hadn't for lack of seeing anyone around.

Option 3 is mostly smooth, contouring trail. The ascent onto option 6 is steep but a trail exists. The views are dramatic as one climbs into the high country and water flows often until gaining the ridge to the final ascent.

On option 3A, the summit of Cerro Las Pizarras, looks tough from below; however walking right up the summit block is rather straightforward. Views are highly rewarding.

The descent down the mountain is tedious but non-technical. At the bottom of Option 3, crossing the Río Claro is significantly less challenging than the RR. Walk upstream 200 meters to a segment of braids.

La Huigera in Agua Buena is an excellent respite, with accommodation, laundry, good food & drink, and nice company. More expensive than expected, but worth the stay. Shops in Puente Negro had sufficient resupply for Segment 4.

• 2024-12-14 to 2024-12-17 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO /GPT02/RR+OH(VarD)+EXP-OH(05) / Dorota Szparaga

Bridge -34.24227, -70.55086 is in bad condition. A lot of water after 17 km to 30 km.

Camp night 1: -34.39601, -70.57223

After crossing the pass, I have lost energy doing bushwacking. Finally, I finished in a settlement of four men(cultivating marihuana). They were versión polite and showed me a good way.

At 47 km, I took variant D for no crossing river. But the bridge at 7.1 km of OH var D did not work, so finally, I crossed the river. It was hard.

Camp night 3: 57.4 km. There I met arrieros with a lot of sheep.

Starting from 65.6 km, I took Exp-oh-5. Part starting from km 7.9 of this variant was cruel bushwacking. I won't recommend it.

At Aqua Buena, I spent the night in the restaurant Higuera. Good food, room, and possibility of washing clothes. I spent a really good time with the family.

• 2024-DEC-01 > 03 / 3 jours / Randonnée / SOBO / RR / Pierre-Marie ​​

Etape : GPT01+GPT02+GPT03 | Meteo : soleil | Eau : facile | Neige : non | Intérêt : 2/5 | Difficulté : 5/5 | Danger : plantations illegales, riviere puissante, chemin mal entretenu

Chemin tres mal entretenu sur une grande partie de l'etape. Attention danger dans la descente apres le col (-34,4770687, -70,6119512) plantation illégale. Apres un bush bashing extreme (je n'avais pas de trace gps sur cette section), je suis passé pendant la plantation des pieds, les hommes etaient gentils et ils m'ont montré le chemin, mais pendant la recolte ce sera surement tres tendu voir carrément dangeureux. Le passage du rio Claro etait dangereux, plus puissant que prévu. Je me suis fait un peu peur, mais comme il n'est pas large l'effort est intense mais court. DEC-04 : Repos San Fernando, A-R Bus.

• 2024-NOV-25 to 2024-NOV-28 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + OH (var. B) / Ivan, Jakub, Daniel

We started the stage late in the evening, planning to find a spot with water near the river close to Coya and camp early.

Fairly close to town, there’s a decent spot by the trail right next to the road, but we didn’t have enought water, so we kept going. Eventually, we found water—a pipe running along the road for some time had a tap with fairly good water flowing from it (approximately at coordinates -34.2359833, -70.5440333). However, for a while, we couldn’t find a place to camp. Unexpectedly, we found a spot at coordinates -34.2443300, -70.5501132.

During our night hike, we encountered tarantulas twice, and later saw two more during the day.

From the camping spot, we took Variant A to Termas de Cauquenes. It was closed, and the area was guarded by a large and aggressive pack of dogs. Fortunately, we met a local staff member who guided us through the premises and drove the dogs away.

The Huinganes Campground was also closed, and we couldn’t reach anyone.

The ford [16.1/877] could be crossed dry-footed; it’s manageable if you jump far enough between stones.

The ford over the Rio Claro de Cauquenes [17.7/872] is easily passable. The water is clear, and the bottom is visible. At its deepest, the water reaches slightly above the knees.

From the ford to the saddle [36.5/2047], there are plenty of water sources, so there’s no need to carry large supplies.

The gate [20.7/1069] was closed but could be easily climbed over.

That evening, we camped at coordinates -34.4022167, -70.5747500. The site fit three tents comfortably, although the ground is slightly sloped. Another option is near the ford [30.6/1315] or at coordinates -34.4128306, -70.5806225.

After crossing the saddle and bush bashing, a group of men called out to us. When we got closer, we saw they were all wearing balaclavas and had a campsite on the flat ground to the right of the trail (around -34.4780833, -70.6135833). They were growing marijuana there. However, they were very friendly, guided us through the area, and pointed us back to the trail.

From the saddle to the ford over the Rio Claro [-48.3/862], we managed to cross all fords dry-footed, although some required fairly long jumps.

We crossed the Rio Claro ford. The water level wasn’t high, but the current was very strong. We crossed as a group of three, which made it manageable. For solo hikers, crossing may be unsafe, and we wouldn’t recommend it. Be careful. The key is to ford at the spot under the rock where the waypoint in the trackfiles is located, not where the trail line crosses the river.

That evening, we reached coordinates -34.5163178, -70.6655452. It’s a nice spot for several tents. Another good camping spot is at -34.5376128, -70.6627607.

At the settlement [76.7/652], there’s a gate. It was locked, but since no one was around, we climbed over it. On the other side, there are several signs indicating the area is private and entry is prohibited.

The minimarket in Agua Buena is open until about 8:30 PM. The staff was very friendly, as was the family running the restaurant La Higuera. They served us well, chatted with us late into the night, let us take showers, and even camp in their garden.

24-11-26 - 24-11-29 / 2,5 days / OH2-RR /Volker

An interesting hike dedicated to fauna.

Water: all spots reliable, some more, but minor, could disappear later in the year

I walked in the evening from Chacayes (5km from Coya in the direction of the Los Cipreses reserve) on MR H365 over the hill to Rio Cachapoal, hitchhiked the 5 km of OH2 on PR to the point, where OH 1 +2 turn to the left and follow Rio Claro de Cauquenes. Camp 0 on the orographically right bank (OH02a) high over the river close to a small Water channel. Great spot! (There are many more in this section, but probably many people on weekends, on a monday evening I was alone). Ford at 7.30 a.m. pretty difficult, 

Later on all easy, gates and camp spots as described by Lilian. Kept dry feet at nearly all further fords. The bush bashing section: I learnt from the bad experience of Matthias and Matthieu and sticked strictly to the trail, even when it seemed impossible to pass here - and was always rewarded by some meters of trail. Camp 2 at 43.5/1177. Rio Claro: Impossible to Cross (at leaste alone). I took the iron bridge 8km downstream (avoid to enter the territory with gates and fences, where the track files lead to the river, it‘s the place of a former bridge). I didn‘t walk back upstream, but continued to the village Las Nieves, where I took the bus to Rengo and then to Chillan. Advised by Alexey I wanted to skip gpt 05-07 for now anyway and come back later in the Season, when fords are possible.

I was tempted to take OH03 at the puesto and spend a day for exploration into valley Baule without backpack, but decided to stick to RR, as OH03 later on has a ford of Rio Claro without the option of bypassing it with the 8km walk to the bridge. Someone should find out, if it‘s possible to get back from OH03 to RR without that ford.

• 2024-Nov-17-20 / Lukas-Tabea-Basil

After the second pass stay on the left to avoid serious bush-bashing and unfriendly property owners! Rio Claro was impossible to cross. We took the 16km detour just to figure out the bridge was washed away as well. The crossing where the bridge used to be was possible but scetchy! Not recommended.

• 2024-NOV-09 to 2024-NOV-15 / 6.5 days (including 1/2 day rest) / Hiking / SOBO / RR + D / Karin

Accomodation: in La Coya I stayed at a "Hospedaje" (S 34°12.3424' W 070°31.8386') for 15000 pesos the night. In Agua Buena, I stayed at the Restaurant "La Higuera", very nice owners!

Camp: km17 / km30 / km43 / km48 / km54 / km69 (about 400m before water km70)

At the exist of La Coya, right after the Clinique are tow concrete blocks blocking the entrance of the trail. They are quite easy to climb over.

Km9: I did not have any problems entering the private ground. There was nobody and the gate is easy to open.

Km17: I forded the river about 150m upstream at the end of the rocky beach, where the water is only knee deep.

From the ford km17 to the camp km33, the path is well seen, but vegetation overhangs it in a way that you have to push you through, sometimes strongly which can get tiring.

The bushbashing after the pass km36, specially the last part before the ford km40 is very hard. The vegetation is very dense. I was happy to do it downwards otherwise I am not sure if I would have done it.

The ford km48 was not doable, so I took variante D. The bridge was not there so I continued the road to the next brigde (S 34°28.9198' W 070°43.6991'). This made me walk a detour of about 18km.

From the end of variant D nearly to the pass, there is no water! The first water point is about 1.6km before the pass (with a camp spot about 300m after water).

Close to the pass there were a small group of cows. They were afraid of me, but the problem was that there were also calfs. Mother cows get very defensif when they have calfs, so make sure they see you coming from a distance, not to get surpirsed. For your own safty! The cows ran away before me on a long distance. Finaly, I decided to overtake them (by doing a greater detour), in order not to chase them the whole way before me.

The dogs at settlement km76 are agressiv. One of them bite me in the leg even that the women ordered them back!

There are other even more agressiv dogs at settlement km79. They tried to attack me from behind. Luckily, as I turned around they canceled the attack. So I left the settlement walking backwards.

Season 2023/24

• 2024-Feb-29 to Mar-03/ 4 days/ 104 km/ Alex + Andrey

GPT03 (Rios Claros) Exploration: Option 3 (Rio Claro Alto and Paso Coligues) SOBO Option 7 (Baule Valley) EABO (new, but no, Tomáš did it in 2022) Option 1 (RN Rio Los Cipreses) NOBO

Very difficult.

Base weight 2.9 kg Brief summary: This exploration unexpectedly turned into the discovery of one of the most beautiful mountain valleys I have ever seen in Chile. In my opinion, the combination of options 3, 7 and 1 is a very difficult, but very attractive alternative to the northern part of the regular route for section 03. The difficulties on options 7 and 1 are not exceptional, but their density and variety in such a short section pose a serious challenge even for experienced hikers: Steep scree and rocky slopes and traverses. One very difficult ford Passing narrow gorges with an active river Bushwhacking Even swamps (!) Details, tips: The first part of the route (Option 3) until Pass3 (Pass ? {03-03} [23.6+0.2/2634]) is pretty easy. The trail between Pass3 and Pass4 is not always in place, but CC here does not present significant difficulties. The main obstacle for us was the navigation challenge for Baule Valley after Pass4. This valley consists of several beautiful amphitheaters separated by a series of vertical rock belts with numerous waterfalls. Although we found the remains of an old horse trail in the valley, the lack of any signs of its use in recent years raises questions about its relevance. Also, the upper amphitheater (from the Pass4 to the first rock belt) turned out to be (at the end of February!) under snow, which complicated the search for the remains of the old trail and we were forced to create our own foot path. After some exploration we managed to find a northern passage (a steep but simple green gully) in the upper rock belt towards a small intermediate valley with a lake to the north, from where the path winds through three more rock belts to the middle valley, a very spectacular point. We walked around the lower rocky belt along the very steep scree southern slope. The path below on OSM maps is represented as a trail, which it is not. This is a very demanding 100% CC on the bottom of a canyon with an active river. In my opinion, in this place it is worth trying to find a bypass of the canyon 100-150m higher along the right (southern) bank of the river. Attention! The following is information about Option 1 RN Rio Los Cipreses actual as of the end of February 2024: The southern part of the Reserva nacional Río de Los Cipreses (the Río de Los Cipreses canyon itself) for visiting requires authorization from CONAF, which is extremely doubtful to obtain, so passing SOBO through the valley may be a violation of the rules, but at the moment there is no registration for exiting from the park. Ford 9 (Ford {03-01} [39.1/1468] ) is very difficult even in late February and can be impossible early-to-mid season. The valley above this ford apparently has not been visited for a long time and is significantly overgrown More photos and trek are here: https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/rios-claros-valle-baule-rio-los-cipreses-chile-163289798

• 2024-Jan-26 to 2024-Jan-31 / 5.5 days / SOBO / 02A - 02 - RR - D - RR / Matthias de Austria

Option 02: Large gate with various prohibition signs at -34.2746,-70.5931 on the H-35 road, so I take 02A, a good choice, a nice, easy path along a canal with clear water, in the shade in the morning. Apparently a favourite hiking route for the locals, with numerous fire pits, some of them quite dirty.

Parts of the path before the pass 03 36.5 are overgrown until you reach higher altitude. You are very often in close physical contact with the local flora. I saw a snake there, a culebra de cola. Thought about it later while bushbashing - how many of them are right now close to me? A short section of the path is impassable with dense thorns (at -34.4261,-70.5885), but you can get out of the way with some light bushbashing and boulder climbing over the river, maybe 200 metres. Good training for the serious bushbashing after the pass. There stay close to the gps track, trying to go back to the track, even just 50m through the bushes, can be very hard as I learned by trying.

Water: Plenty in the beginning, unmarked at -34.3191,-70.5698, possible camp shortly after. Water and locked gate at -34.3406, -70.5565, climb over gate Water at -34.3651, -70.5603 Locked gate shortly before 25.3/1096, climb over Plenty of little streams afterwards almost until the pass. Fill up before you reach it, no water afterwards for some time and bushbashing might take longer than planned and can be exhausting. Fill up water at the stream (also nice pool) at Settler 03 49.7 (there was a closed gate but you can bypass it on the little riverbed next to it, where also the pool is), long exhausting hike up to the pass 03 55.9 follows, with only one stream quite far up. Nice spring at -34.5670,-70.7224, 2 or 3km before 05 starts at the final pass.

Fording: no problems, all water levels low. Except Rio Claro, wild river, lots of water with strong stream. I camped nearby, but next morning it was only a bit less water, scary. I took the detour to the bridge (water waves over bridge, but crossing no problem) at -34.4820,-70.7278

Camps: Day 1: with water -34.4001,-70.5742, Day 2: with water -34.4823,-70.6143 Day 3: with water -34.5094,-70.6531 sandy next to big boulder, Day 4: shortly after pass 55.9, very, very little water, no good camp, Day 5: camped next to an old fall down tree over the river at 71.5/957 with pool but very cold water

Big locked gate at 76.7, some dogs barking, I wait a bit until a friendly lady shows up. Dogs now calm. We chat a bit and I continue, climb over the stonewall a few meters right to the gate.

Car picks me up shortly after and drives me to La Higuera in Agua Buena. Very friendly, can take a shower, do laundry, wifi, vegetarian dinner+little desert, 4 beers, breakfast, got a matress in the still unfinished rooms (no electricity, windows, doors nor bathroom). But he gave me a lamp and a power cable for charging. Unfortunately it was extremely noisy at night due to barking dogs and several roosters. Total cost 55k pesos. I also got some free fruit and lunch the next day, and was allowed to go with the car when they drove to San Fernando, they drove me to Puente Negro, from where I quickly hitchhiked to Las Peñas.

Small supermarket (+ a mini market, but did not visit) in Agua Buena, was open from about 10am, but may vary. Enough good food for the next stage.

• Jan-4-2024 to jan-8-2024 / 5 days / SOBO / Option 2A - RR - variant D - RR / Matthieu

Nice hike, trail in good condition (a little bit overgrowned sometimes with spiky bushes before the first pass - slippery with rolling stones on the last descent to estero antivero, before going back to the treeline, as lilian said) The only hard part is the bush bashing at km39. For this part, when it goes down steep, try to stick to the tracks or try to go to the left ridge, but don't follow the water streams going to your right like I did, it was hell ! The plants grow wild near water. Matthias had the same adventure I think. When you arrive on flat ground, it becomes much easier.

Variants : I took option 2A to not pass by the private property at the beginning of RR. You can begin by 2A and cross the river to join option 2 . The trail is in very good condition. If you don't want to cross the river you can directly begin Option 2. I took a look at investigation option 2B. It seemed overgrowned and steepy from my bank, so I didn't cross the river to check, and came back for the simple plan.

Water : all water markers are still good. For the first pass (36.5), you have water until 1 km before, a good stream with shadow to rest. For the second pass : as Lilian said, the important water point is km54, good flow. There are few streams in the valley between the two passes but muddy and green... almost done. One little stream 1 km before the pass (63.7), clear and fresh water. So to be carefull I would take water to cross from km 54 to km 71 for the rest of the season.

Camp : on a little pass after Option 2 join RR - at km 43.5 (full of trash and cowshit but close to the river). You have other nice places between 43.5 and rio claro, between the multiple river crosses - on variant D after the broken bridge (on the south bank, after crossing with the good bridge) - km 64.7, flat area as Lilian described, no protection,no water, good view. You have a lot of places when you join the treeline after the last pass.

River crossings : The big question was Rio Claro de las Nieves (the big one). RR crossing seemed like suicide. Locals told me that they don't do it this year. To explain, variant D is actually a touristic minor road. People take the metal bridge (3km after broken one) with their vehicles (i saw 2 camionettas and an old car on it). So it's pretty solid, but when I crossed (16h, the worst time) there was some waves going above it, but not above my feet. Only 5 or 6 paces, really short, and large enough for a big car. Nothing to hold on. It's impressive with the big flow under. No problem for the other rivers. Rio claro de quaucenes to thighs but the flow was not so strong.

Other : another snake near the third pass, they really are lazy and let you approach pretty close !

Accomodation : restaurant la Higuera like the others, they are so nice and you eat well, fresh products !

• 2023-Dec-14 to 2023-Dec-18 / 5 days / SOBO / RR + Variant B+C+D(extended) + Exploratory Variant 5 / Matthias

I had no right of way discussions and no bad dog encounters. At km 9.2 (Huinganes, no entry-allowed signs) the first farmer saw me but didn’t respond my greetings, at the second house there was a person mowing the grass, it was loud so I passed unnoticed.

Locked gate at about km 20.7 where the puesto is marked downhill. Climbed the fence, some other locked gates on the way to the first pass.

Bush bashing beginning some 2 km past the pass: brought me to my boundaries, I found myself hanging on the steep slope in 1,5 m thick branchwood, feet in water and it was hard to move forward or back. Stay to the ridge to the left in the first steep part!

Rio Clarillo was still too wild to ford for me, so I did the 16 km detour (variant D + 3 km, see earlier posts). The metal bridge was still overflown and there was no hose too hold on. To be safe I kept my shoes on for crossing. Had a short talk with the friendly settler at km 49.7 after opening his fence/gate.

Going down from the second pass to Aguas Buenas I took the exploration variant 05. Great hike on the upper part and down to the first Camp. I found a path leading down to the first marked camp in wide zig-zag through (or past) the first „dotted lines“. I camped at a marvelous arriero camp, which is situated on the other side of the river, a bit (100m) further down than shown on the track. Also for the first dotted line after camp 1, I found a reasonable good path until km 8.2 of the variant approximately: I already wanted to recommend this variant to become regular route :-), but then it was HARD bush-bashing even when I didn’t expect it (solid line) down all the way the ridge! Again, always stay to the ridge, it’s easier there, and don’t follow erosion gullies. There must be a better path as the route quite suddenly becomes worse and as camp 1 seems to be a used arriero camp, and after going down the ridge you hit a good path again. But I was too exhausted after 1h30 of bush bashing to explore that way upwards.

Camps: at km 17.8 (Casa de Piedra), km 41.4 (Camp without water), ca. km 51.5 at 1200m (there’s a better alternative at ca.1400 m shortly after a water source), and at camp 1 of the exploratory variant. Plenty of water apart from the variant, where there is no water until camp 1.

Accommodation: At restaurant La Higuera in Aguas Buenas you can camp in the garden or stay in one of the rooms which are being made. I do highly recommend the place, the family is very friendly and helpful.

• 2023-Dec-11 to 2023-Dec-14 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Lilian

Km4.6 : water switch on the ground, under a rock after the junction. Be aware turn on lightly, otherwise it will inject several meters away.

Km7.4 : camping spot with fire ring, rock seats and nice tree shades, a stream is flowing nearby too.

Ford[16.1/877] : just up to half of calf, camping spot with 2 fire ring before crossing.

Camp[17.5/875] : crossing of Rio Claro de Cauquenes, look like up to thighs at RR crossing. When you arrive the river, keep walking to upstream about 120m until the rock beach end, you will find rock bar under water there, cross it, up to knee and mostly just half of calf. When you join back the trail, after 10-20sec a large flat area that can fit lot of tents.

Km20.7 : nice water flowing and 2 locked gates, you can climb over them, or go high and back down.

Water[22.8/1173] : flowing nice, and camping spot at km22.9, with fire ring, log seats, rock seats and tree cover, but most are a little steep, just 2 small spots are flat.

Km23.2 : flat area can fit 3 tents on the pass.

Water[25.3/1096] : another locked gate, camping spot with rock seats and shelter before the gate. After you climb over the gate and arrive the stream, a smaller camping spot there, can fit 1-2 small tents.

Km25.5 : flat area can fit 3 tents on the pass.

Km26.8 : a stream flowing good, and a flat spot can fit a small tent just before it. 1 more flat spot can fit 1 tent at km27.

Km29 : flowing with clear water. Rock hopping for dry feet crossing, nice camping spot under a big tree can fit 2 tents after the cross.

Km30.1 : a good flow stream and a locked gate. Climb over it.

Ford[30.6/1315] : flowing with clear water. Rock hopping for dry feet crossing, camping spots under lot of trees can fit many tents with fire ring and log seats after the cross. But lot of trash.

Km32.5 : crystal clear swimming pool!!! Flat spots under some trees can fit 2 tents just before it.

Water[34.7/1696] : completely dry at RR crossing, but is still flowing good at a little downstream, better collect them before you climb up, cold, clear and taste good! Some more small stream are still flowing now before the pass, but for the report in 2019, look like they will dry up soon.

Pass[36.5/2047] : if you are thinking of camping on the pass, forget it! Several flat spots, but tons of cow poop surrounding here, some are fresh, some are dry, you wouldn't like it.

Bush bashing is not fun, luckily it is short and going downhill side.

Ford[40.7/1398] : nice camping spot between 2 river crossing here, beside a tree on grassland can fit 2 tents.

Camp without water[41.4/1424] : can fit many many tents here but no tree cover. Another spot like this one at km42.1

Camp[43.5/1177] : closed gate here, use your arm power to open it.

Km45 : flowing stream and unlocked gate.

When you follow the valley going downstream, you will cross the river sometimes, lot of camping spots at before and after crossing.

Ford,camp[48.3/859] : fording of Rio Claro, i cant do it. It is too hard although at 9am, very very strong flow and up to waist, i give 2 steps and turn back, otherwise I'll be knocked out.

I found at upstream the place that rock beach end, river breaks into 3 parts, it looks like possible for crossing if you are have more body weight than me.

I went to the bridge that Yannick & Nolwenn said, it is at far away downstream but the only safe option.

(-34.48000,-70.72770) : house, easy to find it on satellite map.

It is a wooden rooftop and brick wall house, walking on the road wouldn't miss it. I met the family and their dog of the house, so the gate is open, and they are chilling beside the river.

Follow the road behind the gate will lead you to the small iron bridge, water lever is above it, above my half of calf when i stand on the bridge at 2pm, fast and strong, so when you cross it be careful.

Their dog want to cross with me, but it was washed away by strong wave in 2sec, (luckily it can swim back to shore).

A long dirt road walk back to trail.

Settler[49.7+0.2/810] : a locked gate and a stream, no need to climb gate, walk to the riverbed, you'll find a easy way back to the road that behind the gate, remember bring water, a long way climb up.

Km54 : a stream flowing good with a small pool.

Km54.1 : nice camping spot, can fit many tents, beautiful trees and green short grassland.

Pass[55.9/1772] : lot of ......... , water is flowing in the valley after the pass, but look like will dry up soon.

Km59.2 & 60.7 : flat spot can fit 1-2 tents with good views on the pass.

Km61.6 : several spots for total 3-5 tents on the ridge, excellent views but windy.

Km62.65 : 2 small stream still flowing clear and cold water with a tiny waterfall, easy to collect. Some more stream before the high point, but i think they'll all dry up soon.

Km64.7 : a large flat area can fit lot of tents.

Km67.2 : water is still flowing in the valley, but maybe dry up soon.

Km69 : treeline, trail conditions become much better.

Km69.9 : water flowing.

Water[71.5/957] : flowing nice with log bridge. Camping spot with fire ring before crossing, fire ring and log seats after crossing.

Km73.1 : amazing pine trees camping spot! Can fit 10+ tents, sleeping on comfortable pine land.

Km73.4 : locked gate, climb over it. From here to km73.8 is huge flat area. Km73.7 have a fire ring too.

Km74.8 : closed gate, you can open it by a rope knots on right side.

Settlement[76.7/652] : Los Alps, when you get close, walk slower, at least 4 DOGS here and running out, a women will come out and help you to stop them, she is friendly but need some time to come out, so dont rush to in front of their dogs.

Bridge[77.3/639] : you can follow RR crossing the river by wet feet, or go on the shaking and shaking bridge.

Lastly, i camped in the small garden of the restaurant ' La Higuera' in Aguas Buenas. Hot shower, laundry, dinner and hiker friendly. Decided tomorrow will eat the breakfast here then keep going!

• 2023-Dec-09 to 2023-Dec-13 / 5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Stiina & Kris

On the trail from Coya nothing much has changed, the wooden bridge still holds. As of now there is water at km 7.2 (before hitting the gravel road) so we filled up there instead of spending time at Fundo Huinganes. The main gate by the road was closed but easily bypassed. At the house right after entering there are about 7 dogs, two of them loose, but they don't come out of their yard despite the gate being open. There was a car there but nobody came to see if anyone was passing. We managed to get through the private land without issues.

Crossing Rio Claro de Cauquenes in the late afternoon was fine at a wide place. Camped at Casa de Piedra. The next day was very hot so we opted for a 6hr siesta and nighthiked up the the pass and down, including the bushbashing. Sunset at the pass was incredible and the starry sky even more so. The bushbashing was just as we remembered from the last time, no improvements. The trail after the bushbashing seemed not used, ie the upper pastures hadn't been grazed and the trail was grassy and a bit overgrown until the puesto at km43.5.

Rio Claro was way too wild for us to cross at 9 in the morning, evident by a dead cow in the middle of the river, so we did the same detour as mentioned before - 8km each way. The small metal bridge was totally under water when we crossed it, thankfully there is a plastic hose that can be used for balance when traversing. Camped nearby the river close to where the old bridge used to be (seemed like a designated camping area, there were other campers and signs "llevate la basura).

No issues getting back to the puesto where the route turns up. Water reliable, trail in ok condition. The way down steep as usual but once you enter the forest you can see the arrieros have cleared it from bush. Lots if water. No issues with dogs or landowners, we didn't see anyone.

• 2023-Nov-19 to 2023-Nov-23 / 4,5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + variant D / Yannick & Nolwenn

- Water : all markers are good and even more water present - for now there is water as well in between km 55 and km 57

- Camping spot : km 25,5 ( water 100m before) | km 43,5 | km 55,9 ( water 300m after) | km 73,6 ( we asked the permission to the settler that was present - he was really nice )

- River crossing : all easy to cross except for the 'Rio Claro' that was too strong for us ( 1m80 and 65kg) - we took variant D and found out that the bridge does not exist anymore ( has been destroyed this year), we then continued on the dirt road and found another little bridge 3km after. The bridge is behind a 'closed' black gate ( you just have to lift the chain up ) on the left side of the road on front of a house. Then you can go join another dirt road on the other side that will make you rejoigned the GPT.

- Weather : Sunny

- Resupply : in agua buena, we found everything we need for the next section in a little shop on the main road.

- Accomodation : we stayed in the garden of the restaurant ' La Higuera'. They are building some accommodation but it won't be ready until January. We payed 10 000 pesos each for putting the tent, a shower, charging electronics and doing laundry. The owners are super nice and would be happy to host again.

- Option roads : variant D - be careful no bridge as indicated but one 3 km down the road ( read comment on River crossing)

- Warning : at km 76,7 there is a puesto with a lot of dogs that can be aggressive. We went slowly at their encounter and the lady owner came out of the house and talked to us. She gets scared when she hears her dogs screaming, she said that she would prefer if people wait and talk to her before continuing on the road. It is a safer option to wait for her to calm the dogs down.

- Overall  : Nice section, the bush bashing is real, it took us 40 minutes but is not that awful. We encountered a lot of cows and bulls but there were always afraid of us and ran away. We met another GPT hiker on this section!

• 2023-Nov-19 to 2023-Nov-23 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Jens

The owner of the land at km 9.2 was not very pleased to see me. There is a gate that says private property, you can easily walk around it, no fences. He doesn't want anyone to cross his land, but he made an exception for me. Maybe it would be wise to take the alternative route in.

Two more gates on the RR route that I jumped over. Nobody seemed to be there at the time.

Plenty of water on the route. Camp sites every few kilometres.

The first two river crossings were easy.

Around the first pass (km 40 or so) the trail basically stopped existing for a few kilometres until halfway to the next river. Especially after the pass I had to do a lot of bush bashing. There was no trail, at least as far as I could see. All my Garmin showed was a dotted line, which in my book meant "you're on your own". After what felt like an hour of scrambling, I found the trail again (black line on the Garmin).

I had to cross the river at least 5 times. I tried to keep my boots dry, but gave up after the second crossing and embraced them from then on.

The Rio Claro was very strong that afternoon. It wasn't a very warm day, but it carried a lot of water. I (190, 90 kilos) dared to cross it just before the other river joined it. It was hard work. Someone less heavy might want to take the detour to the bridge.

On the way to Aguas Buenas, at the settlement marked on the map, a dog bit me. Not sure if there is a way around it.

Season 2022/23

• 2023-Mar-01 to 2023-Mar-06 / 7 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + Option 4A / Hannes & Luisa

Wanted to start for the OH in Reserva Los Cipreses, but turned back for RR as Reserva was only allowed for day visit because of high bushfire risk. No active puesto all way long and for this trails were sometimes like a light spiny Bush bashing. At -34.4258 -70.5885 we would have to face heavy BlackBerry-Bb. Instead we took a detour uphill and crossed around this field. Marked water and Ford spots from the track files sometimes where not corresponding with actual location (we supposed a Garmin problem as our marked spots were as well off track sometimes). In Agua Buena Pedro closed down for the moment? his hostel, we slept at Tinajas and cabanas for 40k. Very nice hosts and gardens, we highly recommend.

• 2022-Dec-08 to 2022-Dec-15 / 8 days / Hiking / SOBO / Exploration of Option 1 / Tomáš

The best shop is at the main crossroad opposite the road to Reserva Los Cipreses. They had cherries and nectarines, some vegetables, bread, icecream, some salami and chips. Not a great choice, but more than enough. I went onto regular route and then branched off on alternative 03 that follows the river. I met two chilean hikers on the RR (I walked in the late evening and early night first 20 km, it was super hot), then a group of arrieros on the alternative. Plenty of water everywhere, good watering holes too.

I then took the first exploratory route. All the way up to the valey, there is an nice horse trail. The regular alternative seemed overgrown, as is marked in the GPX files. Once in the valley (at 2300 elevation, beautiful, here: 34.4452069S, 70.5236975W), it is crosscountry. I went competely off-track, wanting to go directly to the valley on the other side. Not a good idea, very steep loose scree, I was quite afraid at 400 m above the valley floor. But I survived. The exploratory track should be easier, there is just about 100-200 metres of exposed terrain. Follow the GPX. I could not make the shortcut, it was too steep on the other side anyway. So I climbed Cerro Los Pizarras, where I rejoined the exploratory track. It is marked over the ridge, I do not think it is passable. I went down 200m on the other ridge and then followed a countour line to the saddle. Sometimes a bit exposed but fine overall. [Update 2024 - it was since rerouted according to my feedback.]

Once in the saddle, there is a trail of sorts, sometimes disappearing. I think the gpx going down the valley is wrong, you need to keep on the left, following the trail. The valley is extraordinarilly beautifull (I have not been to many nicer places), deserted, but cattle or horses must pass through there sometimes (excrements present). There was some snow still, above around 2900 on the southern side of the pass. When one reaches the big waterfall (34.4795078S, 70.4868789W), one needs to keep on the right. There is a pathless path, but it is a bit exposed and not easy to follow. Once in the valley where the exploratory track stops, there is a horse trail, try to follow it. Never go in the streambed. The stream need to be crossed several times. After a kilometer or two, get on the right (looking down) side of the stream. There should be a horse trail, overgrown. I was on the left side - not a good idea, it was superthorny. Pietroglyphos on the map are not there.

Once in the Reserva Rio Los Cipreses, there is a mix of horse trail, cross country amd bush bashin, but doable. Hot spring is cold, but beautiful. I slept there. From there it is better to stay in the river bed when possible. I took the second exploratory track. At first, follow the GPX (as in walk in the river bed and make a sharp turn directly up). Through the first rocky part, I went a bit to the left of the GPX. I used my hands, but it was not exposed and not entirely vertical. Then I followed the valley, keeping on the right. There is a way where you can just walk up all the way up. It is steep but does not feel dangerous: it is not that steep. If you slip, you would not start rolling, I think. At the end, I went to the saddle where the track meets the other exploratory track. I think it was a bit less steep then the route by GPX. You need to go bellow the mountain, GPX goes over it but it is a rock. Going to the other valley, do not go all the way to to lowest pass but take the one that is more to the east. There was lots of snow, not too steep, I descended like 900m on the snow in one hour. From 2300m, there is horse trail all the way down. Keep on the right bank, left bank turns to car road and the exploratory track suggesting fording is nonsense, just keep on the right bank. No cell phone cover until roughly where Pedro lives. There is internet and electricity in Termas del Flaco. Shops probably not great, I went to San Fernando. Unfortunately lost my Garmin with track files. Easy to hitch there, and from there. Took me 7 days, diffuculty 5, attractiveness between 4-6, I think. Have not met anybody for six days straight. [The files have been rerouted based on the feedback, but for the last pass, where you want to go towards this pass 34.5785592S, 70.4349161W and then from there traverse to here: 34.5893708S, 70.4272772W ].

• 2022-Dec-03 to 2022-Dec-07 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Martin & Helena

Taking a bus from Rancagua terminal to Coya at 1PM, we started the section about an hour later. Old trail is in good condition. After reaching the car road we climbed below the fence a few meters after the gate. Trail starts to get overgrown in some parts but still ok. Rio Claro ford at 48.3 was no problem in the morning. Unmarked water source on the way to the second pass 55.9. Amazing landscape and places to camp before the last pass. The trail goes down through a forrest which was a nice change. We met owners of the last marked settlement who were again really friendly and showed us the way to Agua Buena that follows a minor road. In the village are a few shops and an amazing restaurant with traditional chilean meals that you cant miss. The owners are great people, we really enjoyed our time there! We stayed in Tinajas & Cabanas (look at Google Maps) for 40k at beautiful new cabana. Daughter of the owners speaks English and we got even a nice little tour around the property, bread and cherries in the morning - 100% recommended! In the restaurant we met already mentioned guy José Pedro who was really nice and helped us with the beginning of the section 4 the following day. He offers a place to camp for free at his property or a room in his house for a small fee. You can find the number below, responds quickly on whatsapp.

Contact: @martin_hanzelka @helenneka

• 2022-Dec-01 to 2022-Dec-04 / 4 days / Hiking / Tom&miky

The crossing of the rio claro on the morning went well, we had water up to our hips. No problem with the water supply. Variant 03-04 was moderately passable with a 150m section of bush bashing which took us 1 hour. In Agua Buenas, a great restaurant is waiting for you : "La Higuera" run by David Arenas who is very kind.

• 2022-Nov-10 / Hiking / SOBI / RR / Yannic & Mirjam

We travelled by bus from Rancagua to Coya. The bus leaves every hour from the terminal in Rancagua. There was plenty of water all along the way. We spent one night at Camp{03}[33.5/1559], which is right on the river. Bus bashing, we followed the GPS line +/- 20m, which worked quite well. Crossing the Rio Claros was no problem, the nice camp is at (-34.50800, -70.65994). Crossing the two passes is a long day, but doable. We spent the last night at Water{03}[71.5/957]. (The front water point Water ? {03}[70.1/1142] has no water). In Auqua Buena we ate at the restaurant La Higuera. Good food and friendly owners. In Auqua Buena we stayed overnight with Pedro. He has a very nice little house in the green about 5 minutes walk from the centre. Pedro can offer a room with bathroom and breakfast. Kitchen and everything else can be shared. Pedro is a super nice guy and also helped us for the start of GPT04. He told us that he would also be happy to host other hikers. It is best to contact Pedro before starting on GPT03. Here is his number: +56 9 6135 7353

Season 2021/22

• 2021-Nov-24 to 2021-Nov-27 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Kris&Stiina

We started from Coya about 7pm and at bridge in 6km we accidentally went right instead of following the RR left because it was getting dark already and after a few hundred meters of walking we found a nice campsite with benches and a table where we decided to call it a night.

Plenty of water and shade on the route, we also met some aerrieos and a bunch of tarantulas on the way. The bushbashing after the first steep pass [36,5km] was not very fun but luckily it wasn’t too long.

The second pass was way easier despite almost a straight 1000m of ascent the trail was in very good condition and way more gradual. We were also a bit lucky with the weather as it was a cloudy day, making it much easier heat wise. Not that great for vistas though. There was an unmarked stream a few km before the second pass [55,9km]. The downhill after the ridgewalk and a mini-pass at [63,7km] got pretty steep at some point and turned our legs into spaghetti, but the really cool jungle-like forest captured our attention more.

We camped about 9km from Agua Buena. In town there were a few already mentioned small shops, enough to resupply for the next shorter section. We had a great lunch and charged our electronics in restaurant “La Higuera” before heading back out to section four.

This section took us 4 days to complete.

For more stories of the trail, pictures, videos and in case you want to ask us anything you can find us on Instagram: @smallfootprint_bigadventures

• 2021-Nov-18 to 2021-Nov-21 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Marc Anthony

Hiked this section in 3 1/2 days. I agree with Ian that it was easier than previous sections. Especially because there are more trees and therefore more shade from the scorching sun. This made hiking this section much more enjoyable for me. Met plenty of arrieros riding on the trails and hanging out in their camps. Also had a spectacular view when a big group of them were gathering a lot of cows in an enclosure near the first mountain pass during sun set. There was only one ford were simply jumping on small rocks to cross the river with dry feet wasn’t possible, but water level was pretty low and the current not too strong, so it was easy enough to walk across. Was not able to find accommodation in Aguas Buenas, so hopped on a micro bus to San Fernando. Was told that it arrives every hour or so.

Season 2020/21

Season 2019/20

• 2020-Jan-06 to 2020-Jan-09 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Frank

All river crossings OK. At KM 47.1 the camp is after you ford the Rio Claro, a few minutes after you reach the road. Water mentioned by Matus & Anna on way to 1780M pass is on the trail @ 1420M. It's a long day if you want to get from Rio Claro camp over the 1780M & 2020M passes to good water & camping @ Water 19. The bush bashing section is well below the 2030M pass. Try to get the entry point exactly right or it will be nearly impassible. 2 good shops in Agua Buena & a good restaurant, La Higuera. Updated transport section.

6KM from Coya after 2 footbridges there is a trail junction. If you fork right onto OH-TL-V@03-B-#001, when you reach the road access to it is blocked by a high fence. I was able to get through a small hole in the fence but it would be better to fork left as regular route is shorter & avoids the fence

• 2019-Dec-13 to 2019-Dec-17 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / Ian Hikes

Overview: For this section I had a few issues with my GPS and the track files. As a result, I personally had trouble navigating this section. On the other hand, I think this section is relative easier compared to the other sections in the area. It is shorter and there are not too many difficulties. I took the alternate over a large pass which was a huge highlight for me in this section. I recommend this although there is a lot of cross country involved and is a little slower and longer. Aguas Buena has two “mini shops” with enough food for me to continue to section 4. There is also a restaurant/bar that sells empanadas for $1.000 each.

Difficulties: Navigation (for me)

Highlights: Nice views, clear creeks and rivers.

Please feel free to reach out and ask me any questions at Ultratrailca@gmail.com

• 2019-Dec-07 / Matus & Anna

It took us 4 days, including one nero day. Regular trail is in good condition.

I agree with what was written, I just want to clarify that overgrown part of trail (cca 1km) is after the pass (2030m), which is first marked pass in gps files. After the last posts we were not sure. Last good water source is in the climb to the pass (1780m), but filtration needed. There is one more further in the junction with optional trail, but it was quite slow and it would be challenging to take enough water from it.

River crossings were not a problem. In the morning after a second cross of Rio Claro river was suddenly at least twice as stronger, but looked still crossable.

• 2019-Nov-26 / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Tyler & America

the optional track around the last big climb of the route is pretty dang difficult to navigate in a couple places. Be prepared for some bush bashing and the route to not be the most accurate. I had downloaded satellite AND topo maps of the section on Gaia GPS and this was very valuable in finding the best ways through this. Bush Bashing: OH-BB-A@03-03-#006. Trail down to Rio Antivero (last half SOBO): OH-TL-V@03-03-#009

It took us six days to hike this section. We took a great nearo day down by Rio Claro. Agreed with everything said by Martina. This section was pretty challenging navigation wise for us too. We decided to take the shortest optional route around the second pass. The bush bashing section was THICK. I would say nearly impassable. Luckily I had satellite version of the route downloaded on Gaia and found an easy route around it. After this the trial was very overgrown. Past the puesto and descending back down to Rio Antivero, the route was VERY difficult to find on steep terrain. We had to emergency camp and found our way out the next day after finding a well worn trail near the bottom that led us down safely. If I were to do it again I would just stick to the recommended route the whole second half. In San Fernando we found a horse right next to Hostel O Higgins with private room/both for 20,000. Definitely the best prices in town by far.

• 2019-Nov-24 / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Martina and Ivo

It took us five days to walk this section. Water levels are very low, so river crossings never caused any problems. One short part of the trail (1 km) after the second pass is quite overgrown and we were really glad doing it downhill and not uphill (northbound). Instead of climbing the third pass we took the alternative route to the East and from there the exploration route, again to the East. The "yellow" part of it was a 700 m hell of a suicidal bush bashing, but mainly because there was thick fog and we couldn't get an overview at the top. The rest of the route (orange) was a trail in good condition. Back on the alternative route we couldn't find a safe way to start the bush bashing part, so we turned around and again took the exploration route, which was a great decision, as we found a trail in excellent condition. In Aguas Buenas are some small tiendas but for accommodation you'd have to go to San Fernando. There is a Microbus twice a day (morning at ??? and evening at 17:00).

Resupply and Accommodation

Resupply and Accommodation in nearby Towns

Resupply and Accommodation along the Route

Transport to and from Route

Start Regular Route: Coya

Buses once every daytime hour from Rancagua Terminal Rural to Coya.

Finish Regular Route: Agua Buenas

See also GPT04

Bus every half hour from Agua Buena to San Fernando. If you don't want to walk the last 5-6 KM to Agua Buena it should be easy to hitch a lift with fruit farm workers.

Permits, Entry Fees and Right-of-Way Issues

Links to other Resources

Retired Section Article GPT03 - Ríos Claros

Images

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