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→Season 2023/24
==Season 2023/24==
*2024-Feb-16 to 2024-Feb-21 / 5.5 days / Packrafting / SOBO / RP / Lauren & Seb
Day 1: After taking an Uber from Coyhaique to Villa Frei, we combined a couple of hitchhikes to wp X, Settler {31P-01} [0.0+0.3/310] and hiked to wp Lake {32} [33.6/338] to the put-in. We crossed Lago Desierto with good tail wind and camped at wp Lake {32} [38.3/337] which can get gusty on a rainy night.
Day 2: We started paddling Lago Azul the next morning and very much enjoyed the pristine blue waters. The waves built up increasingly towards the shore so keep an eye out for a calmer landing spot. We then walked through a manicured garden, passing by an impressive private hacienda. The mountain bike tracks in the valley behind the hacienda are easy to walk with great views of Lago Azul and Lago La Paloma. We made camp at wp Camp {32} [52.4/713].
Day 3: The next day, we were mentally gearing up for the BB section indicated in the files. *Note: We later found out there is no BB, in our opinion, as the actual 4wd track continues all the way until the END of RP-BB-A {32} [55.9+1.2]. After that, there is also no BB- only a 1.5 km walk along the river bank and through swamp land (CC would be a more accurate labelling for this part). We were very grateful for Tom’s advice to keep our fording footwear on after the fording just before the landslide. The swamp was much easier to navigate with our crocs. The rest of the way until the official Cerro Castillo trail is easy 4wd track, sometimes a bit overgrown. We decided to follow towards the southwest at wp GPT32-D, into the short BB and CC. The BB is not really BB, as shrubs are only hip high and easy to navigate. After that we joined the main trail and camped at Segundo Camping. We saw mice running around so it’s definitely advisable to hang your food on a tree if you don’t want these critters chewing through your tent.
Days 4-6: After 3 days of not seeing anyone, it was a jarring contrast to meet numerous hikers on this popular stretch. Followed the scenic and easy RR until Villa Cerro Castillo, with an overnight stay at Camping Neozelandés to visit Laguna Duff. We exited the NP over a fence by following the RR and caught a hitchhike to town by noon.
*2024-Feb-11 to 2024-Feb-14 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / Var M + RR + Var C + Opt03 / Matthias
Day 1: (El Blanco -) Lago Monreal - valley after the traverse (km 31, 1200m).
Stayed in the camping Las Confluencias (very nice people and place) in El Blanco (on ruta 7). The owner drove me to the Lago Monreal in the morning. He dropped me off right in front of the gate with camera on Var M and said: “This is the (only) way. Climb over the fence”. I did not encounter any problems, and the MR does not pass in sight of any housing.
The traverse (km28-km30): You cross some steep slopes of scree and later of grass and shrubs, with some stretches where you´d better not fall. I´d recommend using microspikes if you carry for ease and safety. You do not really have to climb though. Going SOBO the route was not clear to me at the last rock (50m) before the track descends to the valley floor. Don´t try to climb over it (though there are traces of attempts), you can pass below, there is only 2m of bush-bashing through some trees, then you are on a path again.
The camp in the valley was cold and very windy.
Day 2: RR to Camp El Bosque
Once you reach the official trail in NP, the path is relatively easy and always clear. From the camp El Bosque there is a path to a Laguna (20-30min) marked by cairns, it starts passing the toilet of the camp. There are nice views up there.
Camping La Tetera (km 50.5) is officially closed for recuperation, so I did not camp there.
Day 3+4: RR + Opt03
At the very eastern end of Laguna Duff, there is a sheltered camp for 1 tent. With good weather a nice option.
On the way down I explored the trail which is on OSM (leaves RR ca. at km 59). You pass through some gates and past the settler and the trail reaches RR just where the guardaparques are.
Bought some gas from the friendly guardaparques. Hiked all the way to Cerro Castillo around noon.
Stayed there in Hostal Cerro Castillo, which was the (good) recommendation of the park rangers.
*2024-Mar-01 to 2024-Mar-03 / 2.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / OH 02 + D + RR + OH E + 03 / Joscha
Day 1: OH32-02 + OH32-D [1.0-2.6] + RR [38.8-39.6]
I hitched from Puerto Chacabuco to Las Horquetas and startet there around noon. After 700 m on OH32-02 you pass by a ranger hut. You have to sign in and you will get a short explanation about the trail. You don't have to pay here, but they tell you that you will pay when leaving the park. There is plenty of water on OH32-02. I camped at Camping Rio Turbio (Segundo) at km 39.6 of RR.
Day 2: RR [39.6-41.3] + OH32-E [0.0-1.6] to Laguna Glaciar Penon and back + RR [41.3-56.6] + OH32-03 [0.0-3.6]
Laguna Glaciar Penon is worth the short detour on OH32-E. I crossed a bunch of small streams around the pass at km 43.9. There is some ice on top of the pass but its not very steep and therefore relatively easy to walk over it. There is no water between Laguna Cerro Castillo (km 50.9) and Camping Porteadores (at beginning of OH32-03). I camped at Camping Neozelandes.
Day 3: OH32-03 to Laguna Duff and back to RR + RR [56.6-66.9]
Laguna Duff is nice. I hiked there early in the morning and therefore had the whole place for myself. About 400 m before the RR joins the minor road (km 60.6) the RR branches off the official hiking trail and avoids the park entrance. You have to hop a fence to get on the minor road but therefore you don't pay the 15000 Pesos for hiking in the park.
The nacional park has 4 official campgrounds (at km 39.6 and 48.9 of RR and the two marked camps on OH32-03). You are only allowed to camp at those sites.
*2024-Feb-23 to 2024-Feb-25 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / {32-M} - RR - {32-C} -RR / Lilian & Rainbow
Bus from Coyhaique to Villa Frei :
Monday to Friday(8.15am, 3.30pm, 5.30pm, 7.30pm) , Saturday(8am, 2pm), i forget the fee, it is less than 1000 CLP. It takes about 35-40 minutes and it turns back to Coyhaique with no waiting. The sign on the bus doesn't write Villa Frei, it said Valle Simpson, (and final stop is Villa Frei.)
Bus terminal in Coyhaique : (-45.58226, -72.07800)
Bus stop in Villa Frei : (-45.75139, -72.11226)
Resupply in Coyhaique:
I sent a resupply box(shoes and socks) to Patagon Backpacker(hostel) in Coyhaique from Santiago some months before, they are super friendly and willing to hold my box until i arrive. You can contact them by email, they are good at speaking English, also know lot around Coyhaique.
If you want to buy some warm clothes, some shops in Coyhaique. North Face and Patagonia is there, but expensive. Some clothes in Patagonia are on sale but not for hiking or not much use, lot clothes but full price, ya. North Face's staff is much friendly, and lot items on sale too, but rainproof is full price. They have tents for sale too.
Good clothes is cheaper with discount, 230g gas canisters and sleeping pad at Suray Montana, friendly and not crowded. I bught a fleece jacket at here.
Doite have the cheapest price sporty clothes, just beside North Face. I bught a good base layer here.
Lot of supermarkets in Coyhaique. I resupply at Unimarc.
They are all close to the plaza, all the shops i listed can search by Google Map.
Because i just have 3 days good weather, so I don't want to do any road walking, i talk the bus to Villa Frei, then hitch to (-45.86204, -72.04816) start hiking.
Locked gate and camera at {32-m} km2.33, I didn't want to take long time go with big around so i climbed it directly, didn't see any people on the whole way, so doesn't matter.
RR km23.3 : cross a stream, log crossing at downstream 20m, you can go through the tiny forest to there.
Km23.63 : flat spot(-45.90969, -72.05767) with some protection after a stream crossing can fit 2 tents before go into the no covers grassland.
Highly recommend go for {32-C}, both ways just 10min, amazing views and a camping spot can fit 1 tent with excellent view at (-45.90744, -72.07668), but no wind protection.
Km 26.63 : flat spot (-45.92066, -72.07543) can fit 2 tents with good wind protection from west by bushes.
Km27.75 : old camping sandy spot(-45.92915, -72.07549) can fit 4 tents with some wind protection from west, just before the dangerous CC. I think the previous one is better.
Km27.9 - km29.95 : dangerous CC traversing on side hill. A slide may cause a fall with heavy injure or death. It is doable but not recommended to everyone. Doing this part only in good weather.
Km28.3 - km28.35 : for me, it is the most dangerous part in this CC, some landslide(-45.93359, -72.07668) and very loose, i can't hold a good pose and slipped down some meters, luckily i can use my hiking poles to stop the slide immediately.
Km29.3 : tricky spot(-45.93822, -72.08632), huge thank you for Véronica, her comments made this much easier. Just like she said, "You reach the end of the bad scree and end up in a deep gully with a vertical wall face on the other side."
"Get to the lowest grassy patch to the left of the vertical rock wall. The easiest way to reach that grassy patch was to go upstream a bit, then traverse on the hard slippery sand northward, instead of trying to climb vertically straight up to it. Once you reach the grass, you can use the traction and stability of vegetation to clamber up and out of the gully."
Km29.55 : 1st rock wall, go around it with a clear trail at downhill side(-45.93818, -72.08940), GPX track is correct at here.
Km29.7 : 2nd rock wall, NO CLIMBING, NO SCRAMBLING here, there is a trail JUST WALKING at (-45.93864, -72.09126), overgrown but just 20m easy BB, the trail is between rock wall and treeline, Sobo not easy to notice, but when you are going around the rock wall, then you'll find it. Nobo is easy to reach the trail at the other side. GPX track leads you to climb, it is not a good idea, a slide in climbing at here will mostly cause death.
After 2nd rock wall, finally CC down to the valley and easy walking start.
Lot of camping possibilities at the valley, but zero wind protection. Better camping before pass[32.5/1385], because after the pass is super rocky, pass is a large flat area, but too soft to camp.
I camped at (-45.94901, -72.09962), some flat spots, beside the waterfall from Cerro Aislado. Nice views but cold. It is the first night with negative degree so far. Some water froze to ice at early morning around here.
After pass[32.5/1385], you walking down at another valley, but with some cairns to follow.
Km33.5 : trail starts, with some big cairns along it. It leads you all the way to treeline at km34.2. Sometimes it is not clear to follow and lost, but you will always find it if you pay tons of attention, cairns leads you the way.
The trailhead at km34.2 is a little tricky. You need to climb up a little on a rocky slope after you cross the stream to (-45.97307, -72.10268), then go into the forest to south a little, you'll find a steep loose rocky slope going down again, go for it and you can hold some trees there. Then you join the old trail shown on GPX going south. Don't think about go to the trailhead(-45.97343, -72.10281) directly, it is on a waterfall, you can't arrive there.
The old trail is in good condition for a while, then become overgrown and some blowdowns. For emergency, you can camp at (-45.97898, -72.10345), it is the first flat spot for Sobo in treeline with cover (the last one for Nobo). It can fit 2 single person tent.
Lot of tiny stream flowing with clear water.
When you met the rock river(-45.98185, -72.10091) at km35.33, you can CC down the river and join MR at (-45.98357, -72.10284), it is a super easy CC, not steep, no blowdowns, no wet feet, rocks are stable and not slippery.
When you arrive MR, easy walking again. A gate locked by wire at km37.1, climbing over it is the fastest way.
Km38.1 : start BB to riverside, but i think it is a CC, the grass just up to ankle only.
I find a clear trail(-46.00113, -72.09460) without any blowdowns going south, and lead you to riverside at (-46.00216, -72.09530), then you can walk beside the river and join national park trail.
National park trail is in a nice condition, nothing to mention. Some snow before and after pass[43.9/1470], but still an easy walking on snow.
Km46.1 : camping spot at (-46.05228, -72.14549), it is cleared out all the stone by someone here, can fit 1 tent with excellent 360° views, but no wind protection.
I camped beside the lake(-46.05780, -72.15969) for the second night, excellent spots with glacier views(you are just below it!) and views of Cerro Castillo! Peaceful and not crowded, I'm the only human there with some ducks, and they love to talking in the midnight. You can reach the lake starts at (-46.06176, -72.15672), easy walking beside a stream, all the way stay on east side and dry feet, BB less than 20 meters for total and mostly just easy CC.
Km48.85 : Campsite El Bosque. Side trail to a lake under glacier at north. It is a long walk, but i highly recommend you at least take the trail go out the forest, amazing views there, both ways just 300m.
Km49.95 : viewpoint of waterfall from Cerro Castillo. And i find that you can climb up to the top of waterfall! See the details at next waypoint.
Km50.2 : you can climbing up this ridge to the UPPER LAKE of Cerro Castillo. From (-46.06989, -72.18148) to (-46.06905, -72.18500), then to (-46.06627, -72.18497). No trail, just CC on some rocks, stable and not steep until close to the top, the top part is steep and loose, at there you can go to right side a little bit, climbing up on grassy slope for final ascend. Amazing views there, and no camping, because the ground is too soft, but cow boy camping on huge rocks is wonderful at this place.
I recorded this CC, will upload it later.
Camp[50.5/1243] : Campsite La Tetera, not a good camping spot, some spots much better when you climbing up and before Laguna Castillo.
After you enjoy the moment at Laguna Castillo, remember follow RR, check GPX track, dont follow the trail going beside the lake, it is a dead end trail, and if you dont want to all the way back, you can CC climbing up to join RR.
Pass[53.5/1679] : excellent views here! If you are super thirsty, clear water is flowing good at (-46.07749, -72.20888), easy to collect, 10sec/L.
Then all the way down to Campsite Los Porteadores, a long long way going down.
Because of weather changing, so i didn't go up to Laguna Duff.
Walking on a nice trail to main road, then all the way road walking to Villa Cerro Castillo.
Lot of restaurants, shops and accomodation in Villa Cerro Castillo. The shop(-46.12072, -72.16115) beside the main road is the biggest one in town. Lot of biker riding, hikers and backpackers hitching on the road. Tall gas canisters and 230g gas canisters are sold in Copec gas station at (-46.12208, -72.16279) in high stock. We stayed at Nordic Patagonia(-46.12142, -72.15889), 15k CLP for a bed, 45k CLP for a double room, 8k CLP for camping with views of Cerro Castillo, including hot shower and kitchen basecamp.
Maybe because of late season, never saw any flies at this section.
2024-Feb-10 to 2024-Feb-13 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / Las Horquetas and Lagunitas / Andrew
Day 1 (slept at Rio Turbio)
I started in Villa Cerro Castillo and hitched a ride to Las Horquetas. I left a bag at the Nordic Patagonia campground in town, it's free if you stay a night after, or CLP 1.000/day if not.
Signed in at the CONAF station where the park ranger explained the official camps that are currently open, and advised not to drink unfiltered/untreated water between Rio Turbio camp to just before El Bosque camp. But others I talked to later in the hike didn't get the same message and seemed fine so not sure what was up there.
Easy hike to Rio Turbio camp with some horseflies.
Day 2 (slept at El Bosque)
This day was my punishment for deciding to leave behind my fleece at the last moment. Cold and rainy as I went over Penon pass, but at least I got to test out my new rain jacket and rain pants. At least it wasn't very windy. Great views of waterfalls after the pass, and the rest of the day was sunny.
Camped at El Bosque. Difficult but short day. Worth taking the side trail to Laguna Temprana after setting up camp.
Day 3 (slept at Neozelandes)
Lots of scrambling over rocks. Great panoramic views as we went over Morro Negro. As developed campsites go I think Porteadores was actually a bit nicer than Neozelandes, but Neozelandes is much crowded and puts you closer to Laguna Duff.
Day 4 (back to Villa Cerro Castillo)
In the morning I hiked to Laguna Duff, best scenary on the Las Horquatas section of the hike IMO, do not miss this. Afterwards I hiked back to Neozelandes, packed my stuff, and hiked back to the Villa. All downhill. Paid the CLP 16.000 fee at the Estero Parada CONAF station, then hitched a ride back (around 3pm). Had some good pizza and beers with some folks I met on the hike at Pizzeria y Hamburgueseria D-Lizia in VCC.
2024-Feb-8 to 2024-Feb-11 / 3.25 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR from El Blanco and Lago Monreal + Variant M + Option 3 / Tomáš & Natalie
- The trail to Laguna Duff is popular but "splendid", it took less than two hours to the lake from Porteadores. Most of the trail is in the forest and then the last 1.5km (250m vert) is on a pretty obvious rock path. The camping at Neozelandés is far less crowded than other official campsites I recommend it. I got into an argument with a conaf officer at the lake bcs she told me it was too late to be there and I had to leave (4pm). If you want to avoid this person, then go right of the RR when it gets close to the lake headwall, she seemed to be "staged" at where the water leaves the lake. I originally wanted to make a traverse to the other lake but bcs of conaf I went down to the camp to meet Tomáš and then we both went back up after she left (6ish). Once back up we made a traverse to the other lake by following a grassy slope that starts West of where the water exits the lake, you should be able to see the grassy slope on your left when you are walking to Duff. Follow it down and work yourself across, going down to where there is some grass should be quicker than traversing the rubble, CC obviously. On the way down from the second lake we followed the main waterway and then cut back into the forest to reach the main trail (open forest, no BB). Rather than follow the west bank of the waterway like the GPS says we found it far easier to be in the east bank, less rubble.
-We both bad to walk back to Villa Castillo, no cars going in our direction but manu going in opposite direction (~9am)
4) We took option M despite the right of way conflict. We passed a pick-up truck at the last gate going NOBO (the one with a padlock and a private property sign). They greeted us and gave us no problem.
2024-Jan-27 to 2024-Jan-29 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / option 2 + option 3 / Yannick & Nolwenn
- Trail condition : well maintained, good campsites sheltered from the wind
- Water : easy to find plenty of rivers and lagunas
- Camping spot : there are some designated campsites
- Weather : Sunny
- River crossing : easy
- Resupply : in cohayque and in Villa cerro castillo, all you need
- Entrance fee : 16 000 pesos per person, normally the park closes after 1pm so you can't start after that but we were a bit late and they let us through
- Overall : beautiful stretch of section 32, for us it was really an amazing entrance in the Patagonian landscape as we imagined it with the Torres
*From 2023-01-22 to 2023-01-24 // 3 days // Hiking // NOBO // RR + OP3 + OP3A + VARIANT M // Quentin Clavel
*Town: Villa Cerro Castillo. Villa Cerro Castillo has several restaurants, small markets, and plenty of lodging options, including a popular backpacker camping destination on the east side of town.
*2024-Mar /Joscha
Shop in Villa Cerro Castillo at -46.12201, -72.161708 has pasta, ramen, oats, chips, cookies, olive oil, peanuts, peanut butter, bread and some more stuff.
*Lovely yum restaurant in Coyhaique: Restaurant DaGus, Lautaro 82, 5950000 Coyhaique. Little hidden gem. -45.86411, -72.04916
==Resupply and Accommodation along the Route==
