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==Season 2023/24==
From 2024-02-26 to 2024-02-27 // 2 day // Hiking // NOBO // RR + OPT1 // Quentin Clavel
From Cochamo it's 15 long km on the asphalt road then 10 km on the gravel road and finally back on a nice trail (few cars stopped to offered me a ride while I was on the gravel so it seems easy to skip the first section I guess). I slept at the lake todos los santos with an amazing view on the volcano puntiagudo.
Arriving at the beach you'll see some big houses. It's like a lodge for rich people. I met Maria at the beach and explained the situation. I think she's Eduardo's wife, who was not there at the moment.
She knew that I haven't got any other choice for cross the lake and it was difficult to negotiate the price. So it was 80,000CLP for the crossing. It's was pretty late on that day so we agreed to make the traverse at 8am the day after. I slept next to this amazing lake, then the next morning, as we've dealt, I have been driven by Georgio, Maria son's.
80000clp is really painful, but the scenery of the traverse is absolutely amazing ! Georgio letted me at "El Rincón" where the trail continues.
Trail was in ok condition and easy to follow. I met Rudy's son with three horses on the way, then rudy's wife around the settlement. I continued my way until a point where there's a sign "thermals 2km" PK21,72. It's the junction with variant A. Take the junction. I followed the RR on the right, but it was a mess at the end (bushbashing+crossing river).
Few kilometers after I met Alejandro, who has his house there and his own termas. He's a very nice guy, but as the weather wasn't nice and because it was early and I wanted to continue and go on, I didn't stopped to have a bath.
The thermals camp just after Alejandro's house is very nice. There's toilet, flat and nice place to set up the tent and it's next to the river, pretty cool one.
Then, bc the weather was getting worse and worse, I took the option 1 to Laguna Los Quetros. A bit sad to miss the climb of Cerro Cenizo and its apparently amazing view on volcàn puntiagudo, bit it is what it is. The track was well marked, obviously muddy BC of the big rain that I had that day, but still less bad than on some part of the GPT22 (If you're going SOBO that's just a warmup 😜).
Arriving at las gaviotas at the end of the day.
*2024-Jan-31 to 2024-Feb-02 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / {21-01} - RR - {21-A} - RR - ferry(Petrohué) / Lilian
From the comments for ferry transportation, looks like need 100k-140k for one way, and I'm not sure is it will be more in 2024, ao i tried the ferry option, unfortunately failed. About the details read the comments below.
I joined 21 directly from 20 at Las Gaviotas (like Martin & Helena at 22/23 season). So i walked {21-01} for starting.
Dirt road walking to km2.9 then becomes trails.
From km2.9 to Laguna Los Quetros campground, trail sometimes breaks into some small trails like branches that going the same place, mostly they'll combine together later. Also trail crossing many tiny streams, easy to collect water all the way. Sometimes it is going in narrow valley tunnel with muddy ground, so maybe it'll be in a very slippery condition in rain or after rain.
Camp$[15.9/682] : Laguna Los Quetros campground.
Free because no one there. Beautiful lake and nice camping spot, I'm so happy i camped here! Lot of different types of spots you can choose at here, grassland just beside the lake with excellent views, well covered under trees with good weather protection, beside some brushes for privacy, or camping beside picnic table and fire ring enjoying the night with friends, all these i said you can choose at here!
The trail down to Todos Ios Santos Lake is almost the same condition, but much muddy and lot of up and down after Settler,Lodging,Ferry[23.2/432] when it close to river.
Hot spring[19.2/438] and the refuge is closed, all locked up. I saw some alga is growing at riverbed (means spring nearby), but the water is cold in river.
Km19.95 : junction of RR and {21-A}, a stick with "turn right arrow" there, so i take {21-A}.
{21-A} km1.05 : nice viewpoint(-40.99042, -72.16940) of Volcán Puntiagudo on the tiny hill at your right side, 2min climbing up only!
Km1.35 : a beautiful grassland(-40.99310, -72.16861) for camping just before rejoin RR. Also a stream is following good before you climbing up to the grassland.
Bridge RR [27.1/248] : flat spot can fit 2 tents before the crossing.
Km28.35 : flat spot can fit 4-6 tents under trees just before you going out to grassland. And the grassland(-41.04036, -72.16133) also is flat and beautiful, good for camping!
Km28.6 : go through the gate.
Km29.4 : one more grassland here, but the previous one is better.
Port[29.9/204] : El Callao, i didn't find any good spot at beach, one small grassland just before you go down to the beach, but not too flat, also poops around there. So the best camping spot before the beach i think is at km28.35, under some trees with views of grassland.
From the comments of Martin & Helena, some information at internet, and some conversations from locals at Lago Rupanco, i know there is a ferry called Elizabeth running from Peulla to Petrohué on Monday, Wednesday, Friday and Sunday at November to February. But it need a phone calls reservation by the residents that lives at Todos Ios Santos Lake. I'm not sure it welcome backpackers or not, but i think you can go with some locals when the ferry arrives at your port.
From the schedule i know, from Peulla to Petrohué on Friday is at 8am, so maybe arrive El Callao at 8.30am to 9am. But, i waited at El Callao from 8am to 9.30am, nothing coming or any ferry going on the lake. (So i assume this ferry just running if there is reservations. And you can't book it, because you are just a tourist for them)
Luckily a local drive a small boat to El Callao from Petrohué with some hikers, i asked him about going Cayutué, but he didn't want to go there, and give me a lovely offer take me back to Petrohué with 25k CLP. I accepted, because today is raining and windy, i didn't want to wait at the beach, didn't know is it anything will come, also in a bad weather condition.
I love my rain jacket and the life jacket that the local provide to me when I'm flying on the lake about 30min.
Then i take the bus to Cochamó for GPT22.
For bus schedule:
10:30 Petrohué - Ensenada 1800CLP 20min
11:20 Ensenada - Cochamó 3000CLP 50min
2024-01-23 to 2024-01-29 / 6,5 days / Hiking / WEBO / Option 3, 3B? (Bariloche+), Option 2, 2B, C (Bariloche+) / Natalie & Tomáš
