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→Season 2025/26
=Section Log, Alerts and Suggestions=
==Season 2025/26==
*'''2025-08-23: Track file update 2025 and investigation suggestions of Jan Dudeck'''
Carefully read all previous reports to this section before even considering to venture on this very demanding and dangerous section.
The GPT Track Files 2025 are updated based on the GPS records and reports from Celio Lebsilly, Robin Marcille and Tim Kronsbein.
- Obtaining a permit for the Regular Route (southbound and northbound) appears to be somewhat complicated. Also, the Estancia Helsingfors (northern terminus) and the Estancia Cristina (southern terminus) are very exclusive adventure tourist destinations. On top of this, the ferry between Estancia Christina to Puerto Bandera (GPT43) is expensive.
- GPT42 Option 3 (PN Los Glaciares Centro) is an interesting alternative to the Regular Route. This Optional Route is best attempted in northbound direction starting at the northern shore of Lago Argentino somewhere along Route 19. This remote and wind exposed Optional Route connects via Lago Tannhäuser to Lago Anita at the Regular Route from where the Regular Route can be followed to the northern terminus. A permit is required to enter the Parque Nacional Los Glaciares on this route but when hiking starting at the shore of Lago Argentino and hiking northbound then check points will be passed when entering the protected area. When taking this route without a permit then best avoid being seen at Estancia Christina, Estancia Helsingfors and the Park Administration near Estancia Helsingfors. This Optional Route is still classified as "Investigation" due to the small number of GPS records and report. Risks are primarily the remote and wind exposed route and wild, potentially aggressive cattle (baguales).
- Option 2 (Lago Argentina Costa Oeste) had been only partially recorded by GPS but is reasonable well visible on satellite images. Compared to Option 3, this coastal route is lower and offers more wind sheltered camp sites. For permits read the remarks to Option 3.
- GPT42 Option 1 (Glaciar Upsala) is a highly recommended detour to various viewpoints over glaciar Upsala. This detour commences at the northern terminus of GPT42 Option 3 and reconnects with the Regular Route north of Lago Anita.
- Option 4 (Rio Matas Negras) is a cross route for diehard thru-hikers that wish to connect on a faster route from Lago Viedma to Lago Argentina but want to avoid the paved main road. This route is not traversable early in the season due to the high water level of Rio Matas Negras during snow melt. But this Optional Route becomes particular interesting later in the season when the more mountainous routes further west are already covered by snow.
==Season 2024/25==
* ''' 2025-MAR / Randonnée avortée / Pierre-Marie '''
Etape : <strike>GPT41</strike>+(GPT 43)+GPT42+(GPT43)+GPT44
| Intérêt : ?
| Difficulté : ?
| Danger : Accès difficile ou très cher, permis obligatoire, groupe obligatoire, bush-bashing
Cette étape ne semble pas mature, le sentier est inexistant (que du CC ou du BB) et les routes 19 et 21 pour y aller et en revenir sont une grosse incertitude. Combien de jours de nourriture prendre, comment réserver le bateau (GPT43), pour quel tarif, réglementation interdisant de randonner seul, obligation de se déclarer... La region au sud d'El Chalten est sûrement faite pour le packraft.
Mon projet était de faire un aller-retour en bateau Puerto Bandera <-> Estancia Cristina et de faire l'option 42-01 (~60km) ainsi que le lac Tannhauser et le cerro Sombrero (~50km) sur 4 jours. En effet les retours sur wikiexplora indiquent que ces endroient son magnifique, et que la partie nord de cette étape est abandonné et inintéressante. Le bateau est cher, mais c'est un transport fiable. Marcher sur des routes désertes en attendant des voitures me coûte beaucoup plus cher en moral, en énergie, et en temps. Je suis allé au bureau de l'Estancia Cristina dans le centre de El Calafate. On m'a dit que c'était 200 000 ARS pour un aller-retour le même jour. Et que si le retour se faisait un jour différent de l'aller, c'était 200 000 ARS l'aller et 200 000 ARS le retour. C'est complètement grotesque et insensé. Il ne veulent pas qu'on randonnent sans guide et nous le font payer.
Je suis quand même allé au bureau du Parque National Los Glaciares également situé dans la rue principale de El Calafate. Et là on me dit qu'il faut faire la demande d'accès 3 jours avant, et pour 3 personnes minimum.
J'abandonne doublement puisque je n'ai pas le droit d'y aller et qu'en plus ce n'est pas dans mon budget. Je suis profondement déçu et me tourne vers ma prochaine randonnée. Le GPT44 présente des problèmes de faisabilité à cause de la frontière, je ne peux pas le faire. Il se trouve que les bus pour Torres del Paine coûte 190 000 ARS et celui pour Puerto Natales 32 000 ARS. Je vais donc faire le GPT46 puis le GPT45 NoBo, pour des raison financières. Le stop est évidemment possible car la route est très fréquentée. C'est la première fois que je me prend la tête à ce point sur le GPT. L'intendance, le transport, le coût, et l'administration prennent des proportions insensées pour un simple randonneur. Si ça avait été aussi compliqué sur les étapes précédentes je serais encore au GPT03 à l'heure qu'il est. Bon courage à ceux qui veulent absolument voir cet étape 42 qui est sûrement grandiose
Google Translate: This stage doesn't look mature, the trail is non-existent (either from the CC or BB) and routes 19 and 21 to go and back are a big uncertainty. How many days of food to take, how to book the boat (GPT43), for what rate, regulation prohibiting hiking alone, the obligation to declare ... The region south of El Chalten is definitely made for the packraft. My plan was to do a round-trip boat trip to Puerto Bandera <-> Cristina Estate and to do the 42-01 option (~60km) as well as Tannhauser Lake and Sombrero Mountain (~50km) over 4 days. In fact the returns on wikiexplora indicate that these areas are magnificent, and that the northern part of this stage is abandoned and uninteresting. The boat is expensive, but it is a reliable transportation. Marching on deserted roads waiting for cars cost me a lot more dearly in morale, energy, and time. I went to the office of the Cristina Estate in the center of El Calafate. I was told it was ARS 200,000 for a same day round-trip. And that if the return was made on a different day than the departure, it was ARS 200,000 the departure and ARS 200,000 the return. It's completely grotesque and insane. He doesn't want us to hike without a guide and he makes us pay for it. I am when I went to the office of Los Glaciares National Park also located on the main street of El Calafate. And there I was told to apply for access 3 days in advance, and for 3 people minimum. I doubly abandoned it since I couldn't afford to go and besides it wasn't in my budget. I am deeply disappointed and turn towards my next hike. The GPT44 presents feasibility issues due to the border, I can't do it. It turns out that buses to Torres del Paine cost 190,000 ARS and the one to Puerto Natales 32,000 ARS. I am therefore going to do the GPT46 and then the GPT45 NoBo, for financial reasons. The stop is obviously possible as the route is very busy. This is the first time I've gotten my head to this point on the GPT. The demand, the transportation, the cost, and the administration assume absurd proportions for a simple hiker. If it had been too complicated on the previous steps I would still be at GPT03 at the time it is. Good luck to those who absolutely want to see this stage 42 which is surely grand
* '''2025-01-16 to 2025-01-24/ 9 days (including one rest day, excluding multiple hitchhiking days!) / Hiking / NOBO / EXP43, New Route, RR, option 1/ Magdalena & Tim'''
We walked a new route in the GPT42 area from Settler {42} [#3/385] to Estancia Helsingfors in 9 days including one rest day.
We started with some EXP 43-03 but soon leave the track for a probably safer but slower alternative. We connect to Lago Tannhauser and from there walk the same route as described by Robin Marcille.
We hitched on Ruta Provincial 19 to Settler {42} [#3/385].
It took around 7 hours until we met a car going to the end of the road.
One inhabitant in the settler hut invites us enthusiastically to stay the night. They have no livestock, they are working for Solo Patagonia, a tourism company, to build and extend the road (OH-MR&CC-V {43-02}) to a viewpoint over the lake. CC can probably already be removed from the track, although we didn't walk it.
In a year or so they say tours will go there by boat from Puerto Bandera. Then a bus will shuttle tourists up to the viewpoint, where many condors breed. They are working in shifts, we met their colleagues earlier who left by car in the morning.
Day1: We start walking NOBO on the old MR (km 26.4). Easy Walking but not boring. At km 24.1 there is a easy ford, afterwards the track fords the tributary as well, while we stay on the southern side. There are many cow paths either way probably.
Now EXP 43-03 starts.
As we get above the treeline there is some moderate scrambling needed to get further up. S 50.07576°, W 072.93645°
Soon after we leave the track for a bit to ascend via this pass, which looks easier. S 50.07086°, W 072.95873°
From the high plateau we try to ascend to the ridge at S 50.04458°, W 072.95789°. We abort quickly as the wind gets too strong to be safe (over 80kmh?) and it's getting late. I can't really say if it's doable, maybe with low winds.
We descend for ~3km on 43-03B and enter a small sidevalley to the north, hoping for a sheltered campsite. We camp between two glacial lakes at S 50.04525°, W 072.99735°. The spot is somewhat sheltered from 3 sides, but strong gusts regularly hit our tent from all directions. We build a small stonewall, which helps to get some sleep.
A very small tent or bivouac bag could find a better spot in between the boulders above.
Day2: from here we ascend to the east up towards EXP 43-03. We see lots of Guanaco tracks on the way, so that was reassuring. No major difficulties except the wind until the pass at S 50.03497°, W 072.96812°.
From here EXP43-03 is not possible. A rocky steep outcrop is blocking the way: S 50.03390°, W 072.97002°
To go around, we descend 40m and reascend to another pass at
S 50.03267°, W 072.97092°. Only the final bit is difficult, very steep, loose sand. Luckily it is somehow completely windstill (in our case).
We easily descend to camp, finally in the wind protected forest at S 50.01617°, W 072.99547°.
Day 3:
We ascend on decent cow trails to a pass at S 50.00991°, W 073.01324°. Once in the beautiful high valley, the going is pretty easy and fast. We see a herd of cows as well as guanaco. Via another easy pass (S 49.94691°, W 073.01142°) we reach Lago Tannhauser.
From here we take the same route as described by Robin, so I'll keep it shorter. We descend and camp at S 49.93053°, W 073.09374°.
Day 4:
Since we don't have a permit, we are quite scared to walk within 2km of Ea. Christina and its ranger station. We meet employees of the estancia three times (Guides with dayhikers twice and once someone leading horses to the estancia), but they did not seem overly suspicious. Afterwards we didn't meet anyone.
Once we reach Refugio Pascale, we are still worried a ranger might search for us, so we camp instead a bit further.
Day 5: it's supposed to be raining most of the day, so we decide to do a rest day. We still have enough food, we had planned for the EXP section to take longer.
Day 6:
I think we see Robin's footsteps from 3 weeks before and follow them towards Cerro Yumil and over the pass to it's east. The views of the glacier are awesome, definitely happy that we waited for better weather.
Day 7: in the morning there's a fraction of the water in the river. Robin described the way up to the pass as difficult, not in our case, probably we found an easier way. There's a old trail all the way up and over the pass, maintained mainly by cows I assume. We camp near Camp {42} [25.1/677]
Day8: at the small lake (S 49.74042°, W 073.07323°) as Robin recommended we stick to the Western shore without problems.
The ascend to the pass directly after was very hard for us, dangerously steep loose rocks, maybe the hardest of the trip. Maybe we took a bad route up. The valley after was definitely the least fun of the trip 😬. super thorny BB. The trail is almost completely overgrown and if you find it, it won't really help much. After the second pass out gets easier CC although we still found the trail here and there. Once lower we face very hard BB again, up to chest high, but at least not as thorny. We camp at S 49.70767°, W 073.04438° decently wind protected. Might be swampy if it has been raining.
Day 9: don't try to CC directly to the beach like we did from our camp, it's steep cliffs and CC back to the track is blocked by a ravine. At the beach campsite [13.6/254] a trail starts marked with cairns. Around S 49.69399°, W 073.00547° we lose the trail, it's quite overgrown, we don't find any good way. Afterwards it's easy until Ea. Helsingfors.
Getting back from Ea. Helsingfors:
We discuss with the dueño Nico and one other employee our options to get back. They are very nice. The only guests left a day ago and the next ones will arrive in 3 days or so. A taxi is not an option for our budget..
Traffic is nonexistent.
Nico offers us food if we decide to walk and ask the other estancias. We take him up on it, we only had food for one meal left. Nico gives us food to walk for 2-3 days. We start walking in the evening and ask at Ea. Los Hermanos if we can camp there. We are invited in instead. No one is going back to Ruta 40 from them.
At estancia Santa Teresita the son of the dueño agrees to drive us to La leona for 70k Pesos (~70US$). His family rents and operates various estancias in the area.
From la leona we hitchhike to El Chaltén.
*'''GPT 42 - Uppsala - NOBO - 20/12/24 - 24/12/24 - Robin & Manon - New option + RR + Option 1 - 4.5 days - 2 persons permit'''
We followed the idea from Célio Lebailly and started at Puesto Guanaco after a taxi transfer of 180 USD and 3 hours. Discussing with the APN at El Calafate, we understood that the permit to go between Puesto Guanaco and Ea. Cristina is for groups of *2 persons* minimum. We then applied for this permit, and went straight to Puesto Guanaco. We went to the ranger station to ask if we could start 1/2 day before and he was super chill, showing us the way and telling us to enjoy ! By doing so we were legal for the first 4 days, and could go back to el Calafate with the ferry in case anyone would tell anything to us.
Day 1 : took the beautiful pink granite valley south of Lago Azul and slept before the pass. S 49° 56.719', W 072° 54.442'
Day 2: hiked up to the pass south of Cerro Sombrero, the moraine passage is very steep and would be problematic with snow. We took straight in the granite slabs which was easy. Cerro Sombrero is superb, and so is Lago Tannhauser. Went down along the OSM track which is non existant on an easy CC, then we cut straight to the entrance of cañadon de Los fossiles and slept at the lake where we had some interactions with ruting bulls. S 49° 54.952', W 073° 09.267'. Met no one, but saw the horse tracks that Celio was talking about.
Day 3: followed the stunning cañadon de los fossiles on a marked trail up to Laguna Pascale. This is not to be missed ! Small refuge at Laguna Pascale S 49° 51.782', W 073° 11.060'. Continued on the marked trail to Lago Azul, where you get the first glimpse of Glaciar Uppsala, incredible. Slept by the lake, view on campo de Hielo and wind protected S 49° 49.786', W 073° 11.837'.
Day 4: we followed option 1 to get views on the glacier. From the foot of Cerro Yumil, don't hesitate to go your way. We took a more direct route, it's moraine terrain anyway. Views are stunning.Easy CC until the bottom, but turns into difficult CC&BB on steep terrain to reach the pass S 49° 51.042', W 073° 08.373'. you probably want to follow the track there. Went down to the valley and slept by the first moraine lake.
Day 5: went up to the pass on relatively easy CC. Had a very bad (the worst so far) Lengas BB on the eastern shore of the lake before the pass. Either stick to the shore or take the west shore. Don't go to the pass but to a terrace 60m above on the right. Down and traverse to the next pass is very difficult CC on very steep rocky terrain covered in thorny plants. That was tough. From the pass to the Seño Moyano, it's again very bad CC&BB on calafate. Tough times there but we saw a Huemul ! You'll find an old track at the lake corner that will lead you with cairns up to Helsingfors.
We arrived at the Estancia with low food, and talked to an employee who did not help us. They have free WiFi though.
We went to the next Estancia los Hermanos and got invited by Juanito, who's been working here 30 years for Navidad. He's retiring in July, and has no idea if anyone will take over. Had the best possible Christmas Eve there. He later talked with the Helsingfors dueño, that would have helped us. Talk directly to him (Nico).
Got a ride with his friend that came for Navidad to La Leona and took the bus from there. Don't expect any hitch hike on this road, except for Helsingfors clients ! Taxi rides are super expensive (got proposed 400USD)
* '''GPT 42: Glaciar Upsala/NoBo/ 2024 dix 95 to 2024 dic 10 / Participant: Amalia, Isabelle Celio / 6 Days / Hiking / New option + RR'''
=Transport to and from Route=
Hitchhiking Ruta provincial 21:
Extremely little traffic, you might go a day or more without seeing a car. Estancia Helsingfors has guests only infrequently, like one group per week.
Hitchhiking Ruta Provincial 19:
Little traffic, but doable. A car every few hours. At the first 10km more traffic from car campers.
December 2023 info: In high season i.e. from 1st December there is a boat every day from Puerto Banedera to Estancia Cristina, leaving at 9AM & returning from the Estancia at 5PM. It costs about 100 euro. Inquire at the Ea. Cristina office in Calafate on Av. Libertador.
Transfer from Calafate to Puerto Bandera costs an additional 25,000 pesos (about 27 euro) and leaves Calafate at 7:15 AM.
=Permits, Entry Fees and Right-of-Way Issues=
Tim & Magdalena January 2025:
Permits for the area are only given for groups of 3 minimum. That's why we went without permit. Robin got a permit from a ranger who wasn't aware of the policy. The rangers we talked to have heard of their colleagues mistake.
Frank 14-12-2023