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→Zone F: Zona Palena
For packrafters this zone is an unmatched highlight of the GPT. Just two kilometers after leaving the village Palena you reach the put in at the generally calm river Palena that you can now float down in 4 to 6 days until you reach the Fjord Pitipalena and the tiny harbor village Raul Marin Balmaceda. Don’t try to be fast to enjoy the scenery and to meet some of the families that live for three or four generations on the shore of this powerful but unhurried river.
From Raul Marin Balmaceda you best take the ferry to Puerto Chacabuco, which with favorable weather is a very scenic 24 h boat ride through the Patagonian fjord world. The ferry stops in various tiny settlements in the fjords, where you might leave the boat to do some optional exploration excursions. From Puerto Chacabuco the most practical option is to continue after GPT28P with GPT31P, skipping the expedition sections GPT29P and GPT30P that should only be considered by highly experienced packrafters that are quite familiar with Patagonia.
The few rapids can normally be scouted and portaged if needed but your constant attention is needed to evade the countless sunken trees that lurk under the water. Towards the end the river valley widens exposing you to sometimes heavy head wind and when you reach the intertidal zone the flow direction may inverse twice per day for several hours. So understand the tidal cycles and get tidal charts to plan at what times you can paddle down. When choosing your last camp site make sure that you do not pitch your tent in the intertidal zone otherwise you may suddenly wake up in the middle of the river.
====Zone G: Zona Aysen Norte====
In the zona Aysen Norte the hiking and the packrafting route remain divided and rejoin at the southern end of this zone. The hiking route is located further to the east partly at the edge of the Andes where the arid Patagonian pampa begins. The packrafting route further to the west crosses the main mountain range of the Andes along deep mostly wide valleys.
The hiking route largely follows an array of roads, from impassible by vehicle to main thoroughfares and is easy walking. A few notable peaks can be viewed along the way and water is ample. The few villages are safe, simple, and kind. Coming in the Valle Chacabuco around Coyhaique gives a striking view of the effects of the early fire clearing in this region to create grazing land as you move between old growth forests and clear cuts. Coyhaique is the largest city directly on GPT and has several outdoor shops, which, while overpriced, can help in a pinch. This is also the center for “Patagonia Sin Represas” so if you have a chance, stop by!
Since the hiking route consists completely of minor and primary roads I don’t recommend walking this zone except if you advocate connecting food steps or if you are a die-heard thru-hiker that attempts hiking the entire trail without packrafting in two or three seasons.
The packrafting route is much more scenic than the hiking option and with about half the distance on water carrying a boat really pays off. The route connects half a dozen lakes and river sections and requires some walking on minor roads because the historic horse trails have been upgraded in the last one or two decades. When talking to the few settlers on the shore of the lakes and along the roads you can gain a very personal insight how this harsh land got settled during the 20th century.
Note that wind on these lakes can be powerful and rain is frequent and cold. If going southbound then wind is normally favorable. But be prepared to sit out periods of unsafe strong wind even if blasting in your direction.
====Zone H: Zona Aysen Sur====
This zone provides a perspective of the quintessential spirit and landscape of Patagonia, from open windy passes and glaciers to deeply wooded valleys that channel the glacier melt into turquoise rivers and lakes. Cerro Castillo and the route between Cochrane and Villa O’Higgins called “Ruta de los Pioneros” are highlights of the trail network, in particular if you are aware of the historic relevance of this trial and meet the few people that make their living on this harsh land. Expect to approach both landscape and people with patience and respect.
Challenges in this region are remoteness, volatile weather and poor trail conditions. The walking distance from Chile Chico to Villa O’Higgins is about 350 km and you have just the village Chochrane to resupply in the middle. The partially difficult route finding on the “Ruta de los Pioneros” probably reconciles you with the easy but tiresome road walking on either end of this historic trail.
When packrafting you can opt between several more choices. You can i.e. cross Lago Cochrane and bypass the village Cochrane to venture into the particular remote area of Lago Brown and float down the swift river Río Tranquilo that is not as tranquil as name suggests. You can paddle several lakes and rivers that parallel the “Ruta de los Pioneros”. The most challenging packrafting option is floating down the Río Baker. This powerful high volume river requires a couple of portages and wind can fiercely against you in particular when getting close to the harbor village Villa Tortel where this rivers flows into Patagonian fjords.
This zone is sure to be a favorite among hikers and packrafters that seek to be challenged by difficult terrain.
====Zone Designations, Locations and Planning Status====
