Cambios

One of my favourite sectionsand... no one around this time!

When entering the lake at 9am, I met a friendly keeper who let me embark on Lago Desierto (beautiful, some OK waves). Saw no one at the next shore. Another 2h beautiful lake crossing, where waves got bigger and chaotic by the end, especially close to the cliffs. After landing, I saw a keeper and asked for the right of way. He asked the manager who denied access through the property to the MTB trails climbing in the mountains. Puzzled about how I got there (the whole valley is the property of a rich US owner who hires 20 people all-year long). He gave me a boat ride across Lago Paloma, then a car ride uphill to catch up variant M, in front of the gate (with cake and coffee extras). Turned out quite well in the end. Walked There is a sign that the trail is closed or not maintained anymore but it is still in a good condition (nice forestwalk, fantastic lookout and had a lovely camp ). Camp at the start of the ridge section.

Bad weather eventually arrived and I slept in until 12. At 2.30pm, when the rain stopped, I explored a potential alpine route following the ridge and slaloming the peaks.Awesome views but this looked more like mountaineering in steep/scree terrain, and with hail/strong winds starting I decided to go down to connect back with the track, at the difficult waterfall. It was a slow descent in unstable terrain but I liked the offpist experience. The whole area reminded me of Lappland somehow. The descriptions to climb the grassy slope by the waterfall and go by the forest to avoid climbing were useful. The grassy slope is actually better than it looks but I was careful with the wet ground and the 25kg backpack. The valley was beautiful but windy so I continued to the other side and camped in the forest, as indicated by .. at .. quite tired and my shoes suffered so perfect to stop therein a tiny clearing on the path.

Finally some sun among clouds in the morning. Generally easy walking to connect with the main trail. Went running to (bag-free!) on Variant E up to the glacier, without any bag. Cloudy, not the best light but still enjoyed it and the view up there (but I If you like climbing rocks, for some it may not feel worth it)the view gets even better at the end. Still I still haven't met anyone. Backpack felt pretty even after the roaming freely.. Quick lunch and a power nap in the forest on my way Back to RR, climbing to climb the pass. Barely where barely any snow was left (dozens meters on the other side, actually nice to walk on and some , with huemul footprints of huelmut I believe). I can feel my body is in dire need of calories after these 6 weeks and not having (way) too much food at once. The views after the pass were rewarding, among light rain and wind. The well defined trail through the forest is so enjoyable, what a contrast to many GPT sections! I arrived around 5pm at the Bosque camping and met... no one. What a different experience, I can't complain about the crowds! Hiking during the week with rainy /windy (not wouldn't call it stormy) weather is probably the answer for loneliness. At 7pm I went across the forest towards the moraine (a few min walk) and then walked to the Laguna. Pretty nice view, despite cloudy summits and the fierce wind & rain cocktail in my face. Hanged my food in the rainy night, although I haven't seen any mice (only cute colourful birds coming by).

An enjoyable long night /morning under singing rain. Very chill day: I took it easy and waited for After the rain to stop before getting startedstopped, i.e. early afternoon. I left at ~4pm and hiked up to the informal campsites right before the lake. I was planning to go all the way to Camping Neozelandés but watching the Cerro Castillo glaciers I could not resist having a closer look up there. I left my backpack and climbed NW through the boulder field, all the way up to the pass/plateau (-46.07005, -72.19438). Demanding short hike (1km, 400-500m) but the rocky terrain was actually holding well (no scrambling). Incredible views up there on both sides, and the glacier right below Cerro Castillo. I climbed a bit higher up (-46.06911, -72.19559) and spent 2h admiring the mountains with dancing clouds and the sun finally shining. I saw 2-3 spots that may work as could host mountaineering campsite sites (given granted you have a good weather window for the night and morning). Camped at (-46.07268, -72.18411), just along the path but protected from the wind.

What a SURPRISE at sunrise! It snowed about 5cm snow Opened for sunriseAmazingWind overnight, the landscape is stunning and blowing snow on way upStopped on the way I'm having a blast climbing to the path and admire pass in the landscape, morning light and swirls of snow. The atmosphere is so incredible I stopped 1hr to contemplate it. The snow for like 1hSnow melted within a few hoursDown hours and on the way down to exit the parkexit, I finally met my first humans within 4days in for the last 30mn4days. Left by I followed the river following itto exit the park, crossing crossed the road until I could inflate the packraft. Still tight water levels , I touched the ground several times. But I made it to Rio Ibáñez.Super I was super fast, 6km! I topped 10km/h flow plus strong tailwinds (over 60km6km/h?river flow + big tailwinds). Topped 10km/h with my single open packraft! ? Exited as indicated on track files and walked to town, staying at Nordic Patagonia, 10k CLP per person. Garden camping. Friendly, hit showers, WiFi proximity. But street noises and lights are quite annoying after being in the nature... Why was there no one in Cerro Castillo? Mystery solved: the park was closed up to the last day because of the stormy weather (got lucky!). I was planning 2 nights in Villa Cerro Castillo and but eventually stayed 10+ days after meeting a friendly climbers who invited me to join. There are awesome equipped climbing sites next to town, with lovely/cheap camping at the bottom of the cliffs (e.g. Chabela). Not to mention the fiesta costumbrista & local parties - good Chilean friends met there.