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==Season 2025/26==
<big>'''GPT40 (Viedma Glacier)/ December 9 to 11, 2025/ 3 days/ Hiking/ Clockwise/ RR/ Greg Carter'''<big>
A challenging hike with truly spectacular views of Viedma Glacier in the middle section.
Attraction: 5/5
Difficulty: 4/5
Direction
Initially my preferred direction was anti-clockwise (the direction recommended by the parks service), but I arrived too late at the access control point (they open at 7am). When asked to pay 90,000 ARS for a 3 day pass I politely declined and started walking clockwise (no control point in that direction). At the end I walked past the same control point at 3pm (it was open) and was not questioned. In the end I preferred going clockwise.
Day 1
A relatively tedious walk in along the main road, then a dirt road, then along a fence line, but eventually you are rewarded with better views, especially once you can see the mouth of Viedma Glacier.
I forded where indicated, downstream of the zipline at Ford {40}(44.2/253). Be very careful: I’m 182cm and the water came up almost to my hips - I couldn’t see the bottom and it was fairly fast flowing. I had a few nervous moments and was relieved to get across.
I found a nice sheltered camp at -49.48236, -72.95872, at Camp Bahia de Hornos, at the eastern end of the Bahia (Bay) de los Témpanos. There are plenty of other good camp spots in this location. Anecdotally I heard that the official camps (eg Camp Bahia de los Témpanos) suffer from human excrement.
Day 2
I started the day following the easy coastal ridge line around the Bahia de los Témpanos, to Camp Bahia de los Témpanos, at the western end of the bay. From the ridge line you have wonderful views of the mouth of Viedma Glacier and icebergs in the bay. If you hike the RR you will be in the valley behind the coastal ridge with no views. I suggest that this ridge line become an optional route.
The initial section of the hike up to Paso Huemel is steep and scrambly in places, with some fixed ropes for assistance. Everyone I spoke to disliked descending because of steep loose dirt and rock. I’m glad I ascended.
The Paso de Huemel was super windy, but with sublime views of Viedma Glacier. The views leading up to and from the Paso del Viento are divine.
Instead of stopping at Camp Paso del Viento, I hiked all the way to Camp Rio Tunel (hard long day), to avoid forecast gusting winds of up to 120km/h on Paso del Viento the next day. As it was the wind was gusting well over 60km/h on the Paso del Viento, which made hiking difficult (a few times I had to brace and not move until the gust subsided). There was also a strong headwind leading up to the Paso del Viento.
Camp Rio Tunel consists of 3-4 small and large rock shelters, which provide protection from direct wind, but are still exposed to strong turbulence. I had an uncomfortable night during which I discovered that I need more long tent pegs!
Day 3
The cross-country hike along the moraine of the Rio Túnel Inferior Glacier was slow and challenging, with various potential paths and cairns to follow. It only got easy once I found a way to ascend the hill to the south of Rio Túnel Inferior Glacier. From there it’s straightforward to get to the zip line or to the Ford (40) [18.2+0.3, 664].
Again, be very careful fording: it had been raining all night, and the water came up to my crotch - I couldn’t see the bottom and it was fairly fast flowing, but not as fast as the ford on day 1. Again I was relieved to get across.
The hike is straightforward after the ford, and somewhat monotonous in places. There is an emergency shelter at Camp Toro.
Overall
I recommend carrying gear to use the ziplines if you are not confident fording, and especially if it has been raining. I was happy going clockwise, to avoid the control point, and the steep descent. For me the main factor against going clockwise is the strong headwind leading up to the Paso del Viento, but this is not decisive if the wind is not too strong.
<big>'''2025-11-18 to 2025-11-19 / 1.5 days / hiking / SOBO (counter clockwise) / RR / Ohad & Bailey'''</big>
