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→Season 2024/25
==Season 2024/25==
*'''2025-04-7 to 2025-04-10 / 3.5 days / Hiking / NOBO / 02, 04, 02B, 01C, 01, RR, 06, 06B, 04B, 06, RR / Peggy
Day 1: continuation of section 12 via the Cerros Dedos. To reach the Baños de Pelehue, I went through 02, 04, and 02B. Beautiful! The views are incredible, especially on the Argentinian side. Cerros Dedos is easy to hike. I left my pack at the pass km5.4 and picked it up again to descend to the baños. That evening, I got caught off guard by the time change. My phone had automatically switched to the new time (one hour earlier), and I only realized it when night started to fall around 6:30 pm instead of 7:30 pm…
That night, I experimented with using dried cow dung for the fire. I managed to get hot water, but I still need to improve… I found the hot spring basin in the night, searching for hot water for my hot water bottle (even though the dung fire works, it’s quite slow and doesn’t warm like a wood fire, at least the way I did it for a first try). I found boiling water for my hot water bottle, but the water in the basin is much too lukewarm for me to bathe in at this time of year.
Day 2: even though I had decided to continue via the RR, my steps led me onto the 01 (starting with C and D). I had studied the map, it seems, the night before, but luckily I didn’t understand it because in the end it went well. At one point, around the trailhead? Km3.5, I had some doubt—there’s a short, slippery, semi-scrambling section. I didn’t feel comfortable and was afraid it would be like that the whole time. I first thought about turning back and descending via the 01, but rereading reports on the wiki, I found the one from Mathias from Austria, who (I think) is the only one to mention this part, and it gave me the confidence to keep going, slowly. The weather was good and it was still early.
In the end, I passed just above the small section that had bothered me (even though I had already done it both ways!). The rest is doable, sometimes physically demanding, but I didn’t encounter the difficulties I had expected. There’s a whole section that climbs up through a stream bed that goes well. The last part on the ridge isn’t hard if you like ridges. Slept at km25.1, a bit up high, sheltered by trees from wind and river humidity.
Day 3: I made a mistake and didn’t cross at the ford km18. I only realized later, and crossed where it seemed possible. There’s a path on that side of the river that is fairly easy to follow, but since I didn’t follow it all the way, I’m not sure if it’s reliable.
Wanting to rejoin the 06, I followed what Manon, Robin, and Thomas did and bushwhacked via CC from the ford at km15.7. At a certain point (38.014041S, 071.138786W), I joined a trail that led me to the 06. I camped here (-37.978400, -71.141083), an old dilapidated puesto, lovely little river, beautiful spot (seen in the report by Manon, Robin, and Thomas).
Day 4: my initial plan was to link sections 11 and 10 by reaching Volcán Copahue via the ridges following the same route as Manon, Robin, and Thomas using the new itineraries proposed by Tomáš and Natalie (06 and 03), but rain (and thus snow) was forecast for the next day, so I didn’t want to risk being up there.
My second plan was to go up via 06B along the ridges and descend via 04A toward Laguna el Barco and then down to Guallali to wait out the bad weather. So I started with 06B, which is a beautiful climb, manageable in the morning and at your own pace.
However, the first part of the ridge is quite challenging: physically demanding and exposed. I loved it but it was quite exhausting. I felt that after more than 3 months of hiking, my legs were strong enough to lift my body and big pack, but I also felt the fatigue from those 3 months and from the 10 days without coming down. In short, I loved it, but it’s the hardest thing I’ve done on this trail this season.
Stay on the ridge to avoid, like I did, having to climb back up the steep, unstable slope full of thorny plants! I posted some photos from the other side on FB to give a preview. Awesome for climbers, others: skip it!
So, at the end of this section, I revised my plans: considering my fatigue, the time it took to climb (2.5 hours I think?), the planned descent via EXP-I (04A), the season (night and cold come earlier), and the bad weather expected the next day, I chose to change my route and not do that option. A bit regretfully, but knowing it was the only wise choice.
But clearly, I want to come back and do the whole ridge loop. Another season maybe, with a bit more vitality. This place is very attractive. And also to do Copahue, which I skipped due to weather. Definitely a place to return to. Thank you Tomáš and Natalie for these options! And Jan siempre!
So eventually, I wanted to go through part of 04A and 04C on the ridges before descending via 06 (and pass by the place I had slept after eliminating 04 because I still thought I had time to reach the hot springs at km6.6!), but my body’s fatigue decided otherwise.
I descended via 04B, easy, you quickly find a trail. Then the descent via 06 in TL and BB, which I found sometimes a bit difficult or at least not easy, occasionally losing the trail and fighting with bamboo. The part before the river crossing is a bit tricky because it’s steep and often overgrown. Especially if, like me, you’re foolish enough to want to go fast!
On the descent via 06, you pass by the puesto of Jimena and Javier, a lovely young couple. Watch out for the dog guarding the goats! They offered me bread and coffee, and a thermos of hot water to take with me. Perfect, as it was already late.
I couldn’t reach the hot springs or Guallali, but I found a good campsite, hidden from the road and sheltered from the wind. Too late to make a fire (I don’t have gas) but I had a thermos of hot water and some bread. Thank you Jimena and Javier. Thank you, Life!
Day 5: arrival in Guallali at Romina’s place. The updated price for the 2024–2025 season is 40k for 3 meals and a night with hot water and access to a washing machine. If you arrive in the evening and leave early in the morning, it will be less because there won’t be lunch included.
Wonderful family. A big heartwarming connection with Romina and her bond with animals. A great opportunity for me to come back to this family and hike the ridges again.
At this time of year, there are lots of piñones on the ground. I cook them on the fire in water in two rounds. Normally, they require several hours to cook (at this time of year because they’re already hard). So I experimented and found that two rounds of cooking works. I cook on the fire in the evening and in the morning if I make a fire in the morning, or on two consecutive evenings. The shell should open, at least on most of them. Each time 30–40 min or more after it starts boiling.
A technique shared by an arriero to make them cook faster (a Mapuche technique I was told): roast them a bit before putting them into boiling water. I haven’t noticed a difference yet, but I don’t have enough experience.
*'''2025-03-04 to 2025-03-05 / 2 days / hiking / NOBO / RR / Chloe and Mathieu
