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→Season 2024/25
==Season 2024/25==
*'''2025-MAR-31 to 2025-APR-5 / 7 days (5 days to Cerro Castillo) / Hiking / SOBO / OH 44-03 (EXP) / Ivan, Jakub, Daniel'''
As we generally avoid crowded places where nature is commodified, we decided to skip Torres del Paine on our journey through Patagonia. This also saved us the hassle of dealing with the ferry over Lago Argentina and crossing the green border.
We chose variant 44-03, slightly adjusted it, and walked the remaining parts quickly along roads. We don’t regret this choice at all. The 44-03 variant between El Calafate and Cerro Castillo amazed us with its wilderness, encounters with local gauchos, and the raw beauty of the mountains and Patagonian steppe.
The main change we made compared to the route in the trackfiles was that we didn’t go from El Calafate via RP10, but via RP15 and then via a minor road, which is marked in OSM layers along the Centinela River. We found this route more reasonable due to the elevation and, more importantly, the reliable access to water along most of the way.
The second change was at the highest point of the route. We avoided the summit as marked in the TF and took a saddle at (-50.65588, -72.27388) instead due to snow and strong winds. However, we’re not sure if this is a generally good option—the descent on the other side was extremely steep.
The final change was at km 71.7, where we left the Rio Las Vizcachas valley earlier than planned to shorten the route and avoid wind-blown snow.
We mostly followed the TF after that, and upon reaching Cerro Castillo, we rushed via Route 9N to Puerto Natales due to a delay we had in Villa O’Higgins.
Border crossing was smooth—if no tourist bus is present, it’s quick.
CHALLENGES
The first challenge was crossing the Centinela River. It was murky but only slightly above knee height during our crossing.
The first two river crossings are at:
-50.47200, -72.40006
-50.47809, -72.38751
Then come five more fords, but all are avoidable with effort:
Two can be bypassed along the riverba when you reach the puesto at -50.55323, -72.25775.
Two others can be avoided at -50.56936, -72.26458, though some scrambling over rocks is needed.
The final ford at -50.59246, -72.27959 could be crossed by hopping over rocks.
Our greatest challenge was the snow and cold. We were there in early April during a cold front. Over 30 cm of snow fell, and in some ridge sections, snow reached up to our thighs. Nighttime temperatures dropped to -15°C. The mentioned puestos helped a lot, and we were prepared thanks to weather forecasts. Still, caution is essential.
Another challenge was managing water, which is unpredictable in the steppe. Some lakes are salty or dried up.
BIVOUACKING
The first night we camped at -50.42271, -72.43058
At -50.47185, -72.39981 there’s a decent puesto. It’s small and has broken windows, but the interior is relatively clean.
When joining OH 44-03, there are two marked puestas. The first one [47.4/896] is a proper puesto, which we used on the second night and were really grateful for (the temperature was below zero, snowing, and very windy). It’s neat and clean without any signs of mouse activity.
The second one [47.7/913] is actually the home of Don Mario Diaz. He’s an 82-year-old gaucho who’s hard of hearing and blind in one eye. He pointed us to the other puesto and advised us that even though it’s locked with a chain, the chain can be unhooked and you can get inside.
We also newly discovered puesto La Piedra by a tributary of Rio Las Vizcachas at -50.72380, -72.19719. It’s really nice and helped us a lot.
The rest of the nights we camped in the steppe, where there are endless flat spots and the only trick is to time it well with water.
WATER
The first water after leaving El Calafate was a small stream at -50.44387, -72.41996
Then, thanks to the Centinela and Rio Las Vizcachas rivers, there was no problem with water.
After crossing the mountains, there’s water at the following places:
-50.85809, -72.16942 – small water stream
-50.93075, -72.21313 – small water stream
-51.01736, -72.21337 – Rio Vizcachas, the last major water source for a long stretch
-51.2170090, -72.2210654 – small ditch in the middle of a meadow
-51.35682, -72.43546 – first water after Cerro Castillo on road 9N
-51.44878, -72.48552 – another creek crossed by the road
There’s no water at:
-50.90985, -72.22708 – Laguna del Portugues is salty, and most other lakes in the steppe had already dried up during this time of year
-51.25408, -72.22857 – Rio Don Guillermo had no water this time of year
RESUPPLY
In El Calafate, we stocked up at La Anónima. There are many other stores and outdoor shops with gas canisters.
In Cerro Castillo, we recommend the minimarket El Pionero after the roundabout. Limited selection but has essentials including gas—cheaper than the souvenir shop near customs.
In Puerto Natales we resupplied in Unimarc.
SETTLERS
-50.48683, -72.37275 – inhabited house with solar panels, didn’t meet anyone
-50.55323, -72.25775 – actively used puesto belonging to a next house
-50.55834, -72.25602 – small house with a kind owner who offered us a place to sleep (sadly forgot his name)
[47.7/913] – home of Don Mario Diaz (see bivouacking)
==Season 2023/24==
