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GPT21 (Lago Todos Los Santos)

5314 bytes añadidos, 19:11 7 mar 2025
Season 2024/25
==Season 2024/25==
 
*'''2025-01-01 to 2025-01-05/ 4,5 days / Hiking/ WEBO + SOBO / OH03D (a small prt), OH02, RR / Peggy
 
After choosing to come to Bariloche by bus to renew my visa (to avoid the rain and give my body time to recover from a bad cold), I initially planned to take the option suggested by Tomáš, departing directly from Bariloche and joining stage 21 at option 3 by passing through the Frey and Jacob refuges (03D), despite the bad weather ahead. But things didn’t go as planned.
 
The first part of this option starts from Bariloche, either with the cable car or not. Since I had booked an Airbnb on the way up, I left directly from the house. While descending towards 03D, about 1 km or less from the end (41.086296S, 071.219331W), I encountered a man with his horse who forbade me from continuing, saying it was private property and that there was a sign indicating this at the Arelauquen refuge (closed), which I hadn't seen (maybe because I passed behind it?). So, continuing was impossible—frustrating… I climbed back up a few dozen meters and then decided to cut through off-trail (BB) to reach the path below, which made a switchback. I crossed off-trail for about 100-200 meters and found the wider path again, this time with large houses under construction. Since it was Saturday, I only came across two workers who said nothing to me.
 
At the bottom, near the road, I was faced with a large double gate topped with barbed wire. No way to pass through there, but after searching the sides, I found a possible passage, though there was barbed wire (be careful with your gear!). However, I first tried to go through a spot that seemed suitable and looked like it had been used before, but in doing so, I knocked down a wasp nest and got stung several times! I quickly moved away after the stings, faced with a hundred angry wasps whose home had just suffered an earthquake caused by a clumsy human!
 
I eventually found a way out. The stings (only two in the end) were painful (until the evening) and put me in a strange state. Soon after, I met a friendly Argentinian, and we traveled together to Pampa Linda. Apparently, my path was not meant to follow the option suggested by Tomáš. In any case, the rain and wind that followed in the next days would have made this route difficult due to its exposed sections, according to Tomáš's description. Nevertheless, I hope to return to do it—maybe. Now that I have a friend in Bariloche! The GPT is just incredible in terms of changes, encounters, and adaptability!
 
Entrance fee: 20k for entering the park when coming from Bariloche via the road to Pampa Linda. Remember to stop by the Carabineros for the exit stamp from Argentina if coming this way.
 
The camp at km 71.8 is not possible now—too much vegetation—but I was able to pitch my tent a bit earlier, just after crossing the river where the sign is. There is space for one tent.
 
Despite my desire to go to the old refuge and enjoy Tronador, which must be magnificent, I couldn't go up the day I arrived due to the rain and wind—the Carabineros were even sending everyone back down. I camped near the Carabineros, hoping to go up the next day, but the weather didn't improve. The Carabineros kindly lent me a "five-star" tent, where I spent the afternoon and night like a princess! (My X-Mid Pro would have been fine, but it couldn't compare to this castle!). Indeed, as Volker (I think) mentioned, they run a generator, so be prepared for noise. But in my castle, I had nothing to complain about!
 
There is a free refuge at km 86.9 (Refugio Lomas de Huechupan) that offers shelter.
 
At the Vuriloche hot springs, there is a bivouac spot (GPS coordinates given by Clara, thanks, Clara: -41.24628, -72.04855) with a place for a fire. As Clara noted, there is no "Vuriloche refuge"—it’s a house belonging to a settler.
 
From the bivouac site, the first path on the right goes down to the river to collect water and leads to two hot water basins. The second path on the left leads to the main hot springs with two hotter basins, one of which is very hot. This is where you need to cross via the suspension bridge—very fun! Jose, aka Coche, who lives on the other side, told me not to take the other path as the bridge there has collapsed. For those afraid of crossing the suspension bridge, it is possible, according to Coche, to cross via the ford at km 101.3. At the suspension bridge, there is a refuge for rent called "La Junta"—ask the person living near the "Refuge de Vuriloche" point on the Locus map.
 
Between the hot springs and Bandurrias (3–3.5 hours of walking):
I couldn't find a suitable camping spot due to the rain, mud, and soggy ground. However, just before Bandurrias, there are plenty of excellent spots.
 
On the OH02 route, there are many river crossings. Often, there are log bridges, but sometimes not. Due to several days of rain, the water level was higher, but everything remained completely doable.
 
Because of the rain, I spent an afternoon and a night on the porch of the puesto at km 126, where no one was around. Gratitude 🙏
 
The forest is stunning and magical. Many muddy passages, like tunnels of earth—an incredible journey. As Tomáš and Natalie (I think) mentioned somewhere, it sometimes feels like an Indiana Jones-style adventure!
 
*'''17Jan2024 - 24jan2024 / hiking WEBO + SOBO / OH3 + OH2+2B + RR / ~7 days / Clara'''
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