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→Season 2024/25
==Season 2024/25==
2024-Nov-11-15 / Lukas-Tabea-Basil
We paid 6000 pesos to entry the Nationalpark. The first brige was washed away but the rivercrossing was easy. Above 2700m were a lot of snow fields therefor we had to adabt the route. Its defently possible but takes more time and some snowfields need to be crossed in the afternoon.
Because of the extratime needed we ran out of food and took the emergency exit which worked just finde (described in the manual).
In Coya we recommend to stay in the red painted hostel in the main street.
2024 Nov 3 - Nov 7 / 4 days / hiking / SOBO / RR - A / Karin
At the entrance of the natural reserve, the guard charged me 6000 pesos for entrance. There were barking but friendly dogs.
There is pleanty of water in the rivers. The Estero de Coyanco can be crossed in the mornings easily, in the afternoon after a hot day the current becomes stronger and higher, but still possible.
Snow patches start from about 2600m of altitude. In the afternoon, they are quite soft and easily traversable. But in the morning, they are frozen and very slippery, so that they become, without the right equipment, impossible to cross safely. In conclusion, the trail is not yet to be done. I think in 3-4 weeks it might be good to do so.
The ascent is still worth and nice until the snow.
2024-Nov-03 to 2024-Nov-06 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO /Variant A - RR / Lukas & Sarah
We combined GPT01 & GPT02 with a new route. (written in section alerts GPT01)
Crossed the river where Vatiant A crosses. River crossing was ok.
Camped at -33.72787, -70.35214 no water present here. Not the best option. One more spot if you hike around 1km further.
Water at 11.8.
At -33.74717, -70.36159 we followed a false horsepath. The path we followed was in very good condition as well and is well used. After some km we realized the mistake and we had to CC to water 15.6, to go back on track.
Now with good satellite pictures we checked where the path we followed ends and it joins the RR again at -33.77836, -70.37408. This path might be worth checking out to skip the Bush Bashing. It seems like this path is used quite frequently.
River crossings in the evening are possible but would wait for the morning. Water was up to to 1m/1.2m with strong current.
Camped at -33.81604, -70.39475.
We turned around due to Karin and Neele & Seans alert of snow at approx. km 33.
Hiked back out on RR river crossings were again high after 4pm. Camped at -33.82688, -70.39684
Took variation A on the way out. Gate at 3.3km was open. Small Shop at el Melocoton.
2024-Nov-02 to 2024-Nov-06 / 4.5 days / Hiking / RR (turned around at 35.6km) / Sean & Neele
Warning: We turned around due to snow. Snow present from 30km onwards at 35.6km we decided it was too much for us.
Gate at 3.3km was open at around 3pm at no point approached regarding a fee
Crossed the river where the bridge used to be was about knee deep at 4pm (1.76m tall)
Water flowing at all Water waypoints but “water ?” at 8.7km was pretty low and not easy to reach, sounded like it was flowing well downstream.
River crossings between 21.6km and 27.5km all fine. No more than thigh deep for me (1.76m).
Snow present from 30km onwards all manageable until 35.6km at which point we decided it was too much for us.
Hiked back out on RR river crossings were much higher after 4pm but manageable until we got to 22.9km so we camped there and crossed the fords in the morning.
Took variation A on the way out seems the camping area is closed during the week so no one there at all. Gate at 3.3km was still open though.
==Season 2023/24==
*2024-Jan-19 to 2024-Jan-24 / 5,5 days / SOBO / RR and variants A D E M N/ Matthias de Austria
Gate at 3.3/1049 locked at 8am, only a few barking dogs running towards me, but rather curious, not aggressive. It is relatively easy to climb round the gate directly to the left on the slope via a barbed wire. There's nobody at the reserve and kiosk either, so I save myself the entrance fee.
River crossings: no problems, nowhere more than 30-40cm water level and weak current.
Lots of water sources with the exception of the last stage at the mine. There I took 9 litres at Puesto 73.2/1857 and would have liked to have had more. 78.2/1736 had water at 6am. Water 64.3/1733 very sandy, but ok place to bath about 100-200m upstream on a side arm, a few trees for shade.
Camps:
1: close to ford at 21.6/2033 (without tent on the rock formations just upstream at the river crossing, the only campsite is right by the ford, but I didn't want to interfere with the arrieros - in fact a group crossed there at about 7:30am)
2: -33.8451,-70.4188 at the little arriero shelter, has water from pipe
3: Slightly north of Camp 02-D 1.3/2800 right at a bolder, water but small stream and lots of cow shit
4: Puesto 73.2/1857 (I arrived in the evening and just wanted to get water and then find somewhere to sleep, but they said it was dangerous because of the pumas and invited me to spend the night at the Puesto. They were very nice. They gave me lemonade, tea with whiskey, some bread and a sweet. They also offered me meat straight from the grill, but I kindly declined (vegetarian). We chatted a bit, as much as was possible with my very poor Spanish. I was allowed to use the simple shower and the toilet (it looked like it had never been cleaned, ever). I was offered a mattress, but it was so dirty that I preferred to put up my tent, which wasn't easy because of the dog shit lying around everywhere. At 10 o'clock in the evening, when I was already in my sleeping bag, they turned on a loud generator and music and it was extremely loud until 5 o'clock in the morning, music, 10 men talking loudly and at least as many dogs barking constantly. I didn't sleep a minute and left at around 5.30am when they went to bed. Horrible night!
5: Near 92.9/1734, no water
Two snowfields at the pass at about 3000m, which can be bypassed very easily and quickly.
The march over the ridge at the mine was brutal, no sleep at all, very heavy rucksack because of 9 litres of water, enormous heat without shade, but the worst were the Tabaneros, continuous mass attacks for hours while exposed on the ridge. I must have had 30+ bites and killed hundreds. I found the sections in the high mountains the most beautiful, very quiet, cooler, lots of water, beautiful views, no tabaneros. Saw three condors and arrieros lassoing cows.
Variant E has only partial tracks. I couldn't find a continuous path. I mostly hiked along the dried-up stream bed (the open land is covered in thorny plants), which gets a bit steep towards the end with some easy climbing.
The N variant is partly completely overgrown with quite some bushbashing, partly easy to walk on. Sometimes difficult to find the way, always check the GPS, otherwise you take a supposedly easier path, which then turns out to be a dead end.
To avoid possible right of way conflicts, you can simply bypass the car park at the mine entrance. There is an access to the car park directly from the H-263 road a little to the east. Directly at the entrance to the car park there is a clearly visible trail that climbs steeply a few meters up to the trees. Simply follow this path, it leads parallel to the car park directly to the RR. I recommend managing the RR in this way in future. It would also be a small improvement to avoid the bend in the road just before the 105.8/799 bridge. A staircase leads directly to the bridge as a shortcut.
There is no more accommodation in Coya. A friendly young local helped me, he called numerous numbers and asked people on the street/shops, but there was nothing, everything was closed or takes only larger groups, even the hotel in Termas de Cauquenes was shut down. I then took the bus to Rancagua. Bus stop near the supermarket, towards the bridge. From Monday to Saturday every hour from 7am to 10pm.
* 2023-Dec-28 to 2024-Jan-01 / 4,5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR and variants A D F J / Matthieu
Really nice hike, from river to high mountain to the long ridge. No big problems with river crossings, snow or slopes (see below). Lack of water will surely be the main issue in the next months.
Some annoying but short cross country/bush bashing part in the spiky herbs after km 15.6, but good visibility.
Variants
- A to try to go to the calabozo del diablo (day 0 that i didn't count on hike). It was a fail at 100m of arrival, i didn't feel the final river crossing. Later in the season will be good enough. Seems an amazing place.
- D for west exposition (see below) and attracticity
- F and J on the ridge because it looked really safer than the RR below. I didn't feel endangered on these parts of the ridge, it's flat and large, even with windy conditions. RR seemed steepy from above.
- I hitchhiked from the end of the ridge to Coya
Camp :
- Coyanco river on variant A after my calabozo fail, official place for camping with toilets ;
- 22.9 (arrieros camp after river crossing) ;
- 39.3 in the cirque before the pass, very nice but windy ;
- 67, where lilian found the good spot. Actually you have to get all the rocks and cow shit away, and there are a lot of spiky herbs. I found only one good place for a tent after exploring a bit but it was perfect and well protected. Another spot is 1.5km after, plenty of space but less trees for protection ! ;
- 90.4 on variant J on the ridge just below the summit. Nice but unprotected ! You have some more places around the cerro los canelos (with the antenn).
Water : all the markers were still flowing. Bring filter with you as there are cows everywhere in the mountain
-Waypoint 8.7 : you can hear it downstream, not on the RR, but seems hard to reach
-11.8 : minor stream, i dont know if it will still be there in a month
-Between 15.6 and 20.7 : 2 other streams
-Between 20.7 and 27.5 : multiples river crosses, no problem with water
-Less water after the bridge at 64.3.
- Good stream with tiny cascada at 66.7 just before the nice camp spot at 67 km.
-Surely water at puesto 73.2 as you can see a river below, but not on the RR (underground pipe ?)
-78.8 : Important water spot as Lilian said, last until the road on all the ridge. This is NOT a big stream now, I don't know if it will still flow in a month. Note that there is an emergency exit at this moment if you have water problems. Some workers were here, working in fields.
-Sunny and hot conditions on the ridge. I took 5.2 L (I cooked with a few while camping) and got 200 mL at the end.
Snow patches : now only on east and south exposed slopes. No problems with snow at this moment, i didnt have to cross any :
- km 34 where Matthias took the uphill solution, now you have a little hole in the snow juste below the RR.
- after the pass : snow patches block the passage to the minor road RR. Just follow the ridge for a few dozens meter and safe way to join the minor road, without snow.
- variant D : fully exposed west so no patches if you begin it on the RR after crossing the river (directly on the west-exposed slope). I don't know if there are patches on the RR before the variant D end.
- No patches blocking the RR after variant D end
River Crossings :
- first on variant A, at 8 am. The flow is strong, choose wisely the place. A few meters below the usual local crossing (that you can see with a cairn) I found a big rock in the middle of the river. The first part until this rock is easy, the second stronger flow, up to the beginning of thighs but only for two paces. (178 cm 80 kgs).
- No other concerns about river crossings along the way.
Right of way : No problems with gates or private properties on the way. I had to pay 6000 pesos to enter the Coyanco reserve at 11 am.
Other: I saw one snake (the second, another one on GPT01) in the middle of the trail, taking the sun, he moved slowly but I had to make noise for it. Be careful at any time not to walk on it. I think it was a chilean long tailed snake, venom painful but not deadly as wikipedia says. Internet says that it's rarely seen... but seems not on the crazy GPT !
* 2023-Dec-6 to 2023-Dec-11/ 5 days / SOBO / RR, variants A+D+E+G+J+M / Matthias
GPT02 was a great hike in these spring conditions.
With the snow on the upper part and the variants + shortcuts I could avoid most of the more boring walking on MR until bridge at km 64.3!
Forded Coyanco river on variant A on 6th of December late afternoon ca. 150m upstream of location on track. Water up to thighs for me (188cm).
Steep snowpatches on GPT02 are a serious danger as snow is compacting daily now. But you can go around all of them, particularly around km34, I went 100m uphill to avoid the remains of the cornice.
I could not find a path for RR where variant J stays easy on the ridge. Seems like a fence is being build at the end east of RR, perhaps blocking access to variant M (and other variants?) in future.
Hitch-hiked to Rancagua from road at end of variant M.
Camps:
- on river bank of Coyanco river after fording ca. 33°42'30"S 70°20'45"W
- at track waypoint at km 22.9 (beside stone-walled rock)
- very beautiful at 33°54'15"S 70°23'33"W (in cirque one platform below RR)
- 1.5km after bridge at km 64.3 besides the path (no great spot)
- on the ridge south of Cerro Alto El Paico (km 90.4) - no water
*2023-Dec-07 to 2023-Dec-10 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Lilian
Gate[3.3/1049] : gate is opened, nobody there on 7am.
Water,bridge{01} : look like is broken, wet feet crossing. Strong flow and up to knee at early morning.
Water?{8.7/1298} : dry at river crossing, but is still flowing at downstream, after you cross the stream, dont climb up immediately, there is a side trail on your right side to downstream, follow it about 1 min, you'll hear water flowing, water spot is on your right side, but is overgrown and muddy, not easy to get close. It has a small pool and like a spigot (2min/L).
Water?{11.8/1648} : excellent spot, water flowing good with clear and coldwater, has a huge shade for lunch or a break, also a sandy spot for 1 tent.
Water{15.6/1616} : good flowing with a small waterfall at RR crossing, great to take a cold shower in hot mid-day.
Water{20.7/2064} : flowing good.
Ford{21.6/2033} : easier spot at 30m upstream of RR crossing, flowing fast and up to knee at early morning, much easier than the broken bridge one. A small sandy spot for a small single person tent.
Ford, camp?{22.9/2067} : RR crossing look like up to knee. Downstream 30m is a better crossing spot, rock bar under water, just up to half of calf, easy. After crossing there is a large flat area, have stone wall for 1-2 tents.
From here to "Ford,camp?{27.5/2209}", some more river crossing, mostly just up to knee.
Ford,camp?{27.5/2209} : look like no camping spot here?
Climb up steep but easy to follow.
Snow conditions just like Yannick & Nolwenn said, if not comfortable with snow, wait 1-2 weeks for melting.
Still lot of snow after the pass. The last snow slope you need to cross is at km54.1
Camp{57.0+0.3/2286} : when you first see the meadows from high, keep walking a little and look at the mountain side, a stream with a red and white pipe is there, flowing with crystal clear and cold water.
Water, bridge{64.3/1733} : tons of brown sandy water.
Km64.7 : camping spot, but dead cows here.
Km67 : camping spot on valley side, some tree covers and great view, some side trail leads you to there.
Km68.6 : camping spot beside the road.
Bridge, water?camp?{78.2/1736} : flowing good with clear and cool water. Can fit some tents at road shoulder. It is the LAST WATER before the ridge.
Mostly have flat spots for camping at each pass before km85, but windy.
Km85.5 : excellent camping spot, can fit 1 tent, with a blouder for wind protection from south, great views, BBQ grill and cell service.
Lastly, i took 4.5L water go over the ridge, and water all gone, better bring more in January and February.
Coya have a small shop for resupply, not the best but enough, also friendly!
Beside the store is Bar Catalán Coya, they make nice sandwiches!
*2023-Dec-04 to 2023-Dec-08 / 4.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Stiina & Kris
Half the bridge gone at the beginning.
1st water was flowing but not where the trail crosses the stream but lower down - there is a dirt path to the water.
River crossings are fine until the one at km26.5 was very rapid and strong; we crossed below the regular crossing point. Probably not a good idea atm to do the crossings in late afternoon. We then took the alternate trail that stays on the left of the river in order to skip two crossings. Good campsite when back down by the river, aimed to do the last crossing in the early morning, which was much better.
The way up had good trail and more water than marked, due to the snowmelt. Snowpatches started once we reached the ridge, mostly very easy to cross except the patches on south-facing slopes; we used microspikes here.
Careful: an unexploded explosive on the ridge at -33.94081, -70.41171.
The road on the way down has lots of rockfall, many places with minor landslides. Some extra streams are flowing between Estero Codegua and the mine.
You can follow us on Instagram: @smallfootprint_bigadventures
* 2023-Nov-12 to 2023-Nov-16 / 4,5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + GPT02 variant A + improvised trail due to a lot of snow between km30 and km52 / Yannick & Nolwenn
- Gates :
(1) gate at km3 for the Reserva, nobody there, the gate was open so we just went through.
(2) Gate at km80,3 was closed, we just went around on the right side of the fence and followed it to reach the track again.
- Water : water markers correct and more water due to snow melt
- Camping spot : km 17,7 | km 36,5 | km 55 | km 82,6
- River crossing :
(1) bridge (km3,6) was inaccessible for us, stream too strong - so we took the variant A and crossed the river further on. The current was really strong and up until the hips, we took our time and had previous experiences of river crossings before.
(2)Between km21,6 and km27,5 we had to cross the river 9 times, it was usually up until our thighs.
- Weather : 3 days of sun and 1 cloudy day.
WARNING : Update on snow conditions.From km 30,5 the snow is present until km 52. Be really careful between km 34.6 and km 41, because it is icy and a fall could be fatal. We diverted from the gpt trail because following was impossible due to the snow. Sometimes there was 1 meter of snow. Follow the ridgline from km 42 to km 47, and not the gpt trail because at the moment it is completely covered in icy snow. For those who are planning to do this section in the next few days, defenetly check the weather and be aware of the impact of the sun on the snow ( melting, icy...)
- Resupply : Coya, a small shop has everything you need for the next section
- Accomodation : ' Hostal & Residencial' for 20 000 pesos a night
- Option roads : variant A ( easy to follow ) / variant M + N ( trail overgrown at some stages ) / at the control Maintenes, a friendly worker didn't let us take the gravel road at km 101,3 so we walked along the ruta H203 and reach the trail again at km102,4
- Overall : beautiful section but the snow made it really challenging for us. We met some wild cows and bulls and they were afraid of us and ran away, same for wild horses.
If you want to see some pictures of the sections and/or ask us some questions, you can find us on Instagram : @2funambules
==Season 2022/23==
Very hot below 2000m. For river crossing not even wet feet. Passed a kind of informal puesto little below junction to Clarillo, nobody there, just a crazy dog. No territorial cows/bulls around as stated somewhere else. Just give them time they need to check the situation and they will trot away...We where lucky to have met very nice people in the puesto before the mine. Got off at emergency1...took us ttl 6 days for this trip with one day almost off...
*2023-Jan-05 4 days RR SOBO Frank
Once over the pass the landscape changes & it's semi desert with a long way between water sources. As you approach a green hut there is a spring coming from the rock by the road. Go into the puesto, if there is no one there you can get water from a spring at the back. The puesto owners are friendly & will have no problem giving you water if they are there. Best to camp at or near the puesto, fill up & start very early next day. Walk the first few KM on the road before dawn if you can. Last water 25KM? was as dry as dirt in January. When you get to the mine stay outside it, go to the right of the boundary fence & handrail it, then you will have no problems. Midsummer i.e. January is not the best time to do the last section, there is hardly any shade & it becomes a desert survival test. The water I had in my pack side pocket was hot enough to make tea. Got to the road OK but felt a bit faint. Heat exhaustion is a real possibility on the last section, go earlier in the season if you can. November once the snow has cleared is ideal.
* 2022-Dec-06 to 2022–Dec-08 / Hiking / SOBO / Tomáš
I continued from the Reserva Nacional Rio Clarillo. I went up to Cerro Los Cristales, there was entel 4g Entel 4G for fifteen minutes on the ridge and then it stopped completely, but I managed to have a audio call over internet. Nice view on lakes from the top but a detour. Have not met anybody all three days it took me to walk this. The cows were all afraid of me (somebody commented they are territorial).
The MR till the waypoint last water 50 km (it is not 50 km from there!!!) is actually impassable for cars due to debris. There was plenty of water everywhere until then.
About 10 km further on, there is a puesto - it has water, you need to go in the puesto. There was nobody there so I slept there in the yard. From here on, there was 4g 4G Entel coverage pretty much everywhere.
About 1 km from the puesto, there is a horse trail going to the left (not mapped), I took it. It goes up and then it us is easy CC downhill. I took a detour to south-east due to misunderstanding what the mine looks like (it is that large flat white-yellow valley - probably debris from the mine). Thanks to that Ihave I have not met any gates. There was a trickle of water in the last water point ( i I crossed it somewhat upstream from RR). Walked under the dam and along the fence of the mine. Kept up from the RR, its suggested track lose loses some altitude for no reason.
The part on the ridge is quite beautiful, I would recommend not taking the emergency exits if you can(I also walked it between 4 PM and 9 PM, so it was not hot,but a very nice sunset). Very clear path pretty much everywhere. But it is far, took me five hours of fast walking to get to the road to Coya from mine. At the end, do not take the TL {02-M} option the seems like the shortest way to Coya from the end of the ridge. There is no trail, it is overgrown, Once I would call it bush bashing. No fun in the dark. Once i get got to the PR, I immediately hitched a car to Coya and stayed at a hostel for 15000 at 34.2057545S, 70.5306223W. Now I will try to get some food.
=Transport to and from Route=
Get the metro to Plaza De Puente Alto then Bus MB-72B to El Melocoton.
=Permits, Entry Fees and Right-of-Way Issues=