6
ediciones
Cambios
→Season 2022/23: Added content
==Season 2022/23==
* 28.4.2023 - 12/05/2023 / GPT69 (Ushuaia); RR + various OH; all directions / Jakub+Veronika:
We stayed in Ushuaia for quite a long time. We visited NP Tiera del Fuego, walked to Mirador Glaciar Martial, Cerro Medio and Laguna Esmeralda, hitchhiked to Puerto Almanza and finally walked Sendero Lucas Bridges from Estancia Haberton to Tolhuin. All was nice, all is recomendable Ushuaia's museums included, the last is the hardest:
Sendero Lucas Bridges was build by famous settlerer and former missionary Lucas Bridges between 1900 and 1902 using traditional mountain path of Selk'nam people and curiously with their man power. We don't know whether it was an employment or a modern form of slavery, there are arguments for both. Bridges's descendants still run nearby Estancia Haberton, which can be visited during summer season (estancia, museum of marine mammals, restaurant). The sendero itself begins alongside a new puesto of vaqueros (ranch with cows built in 2019 based on a rented land of Estancia Haberton). The guys who work there are really nice and welcoming. You can ask there about the paths, if you need it.
We crossed the pasture (unlocked wooden gates) and from there on it was easy to follow the way threw the gassing land. It is necessary to cross the fences a few times untill you get closer to the forest, there you need to follow the track files for a while, because the trail itself is misleading. After we crossed the river Varela (all crossings are recorded accurately at the original locations), and spent the first night in the camp on its shore. The camp looks quite new (first photo). From there the path was well marked with metal Fuegian flags and red and blue spots and leads next to Varela River and after along one of its left sources at the bottom of the valley. We followed that untill we approached another new camp (second photo). Then the trail leads to peatbog where the path disappears with the first beaver lagoon and from that moment on it is just cross-country through the peat. Sometimes we could see more marks but it doesn't help at all (the solution would be to record all the marks on the GPS but we didn't have time for that - if you can, do it!). We wanted to spent our second night at Rancho Lata, but we couldn't find it because of a dark (search around the track in the forest at km 37.2). We slept close to this point between the the trees that provided good shelter from the wind. The next day we turned right to the Paso Bridges. Here the path follows a stream that runs from the pass. When in the mountains, we found yellow and wooden pole marks that led us across the pass. The wind here was strongest we've met in Patagonia so take care! We spent night in the camp Bruzo with another beaver lagoon next to it (and sadly some rubbish as well). In the morning we lost marks again, so we needed to cross the peatbog again, thanks to frost it was harder then a day ago. It is better to go around the lagoon on its right side. We crossed river again over fallen trees, after in the forest we found marks again for a monet. Then some more cross-country untill we reached Rio Valdez. From there on the trail is recorded accurately and well visible with some recent maintainance. Last night we spent close to the river where are many good camping spots. Next day we crossed the river Valdez next to the puesto and soon we were on the mud road leading to Tolhuin. We spent on the path 4 nights. We walked slowly, but also it wasn't easy. Lot's of humidity, peatbogs, fallen trees and half of the path not well marked. But nature really amazing with interesting history (Selk'nam) and present (beaver introduction related demage and recent forest exploitation close to slowly expanding Tolhuin). It seems that not many people visit this sendero these days. Hopefully the protection status will change and more people will come!
* 2023/04/21 - 2023/04/26 / 5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR and Option 6 / Christopher and Anna