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[[Es:Ruta de los Pioneros]]
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|Actividad=Trekking
==Recent Alerts and Suggestions==
* Dec 2022 Frank
There is a bus from Cochrane to Lago Brown twice a week (see transport section) Taking it to the junction with Route 901, a little after the bridge over Rio Tranquilo, will save a 34KM road walk.
* 13.03.23 -18.03.23 / Anna & Christopher / SOBO, Cochrane - Villa O'Higgins / 5.5 days
We camped approximately 3 km outside of Cochrane to get an early start on the first day. After walking some km we got pretty lucky and got two hitchhikes and were able to skip 41 km until km 53. The views in between were amazing though, especially Glaciar Calluqueo.
The next day it was supposed to rain a lot until the afternoon. Therefore we planned half a day in the tent and went to a small simple shelter at km 65.8, that is indicated on Gaia.
It didn't rain as bad as last predicted and we were able to continue around 2 pm. The weather got surprisingly good then. Nice stretch over the pass. We camped at around km 76 next to the river. All rivercrossings were all pretty chill, even with Anna beeing 1,63m. But there were tons of small streams, muddy pools and rivers to cross. We had no dry feet for 5 days. There were also lots of fallen trees to climb over/walk around from Puesto la Pampa until Lago Christie, therefore that stretch took us longer than expected.
The trail between approx. km 105 to 107 is starting to get really overgrown. It was still wet from the rain and our pants were completely drenched after we got through there, even without rain.
We met the settler at km 118.9. He even invited us in, but we continued on to make some more km that day and camped at km 122.9, which is a pretty nice spot at the lake.
The next morning we had to slip into frozen shoes to continue. After another friendly encounter with the next settler, we were happy to reach the dirtroad, were it felt good to gain kilometers a lot faster again. We spent the night at the refugio km 148.7 with a fireplace.
On our final day there were some fantastic views. Just when the road got more dull and we started our first brake after approx. 11 km, a car of the Carabineros passed and they took us to Villa O'Higgins. A pretty lucky section for us :)
*Feb. 2-8 / Zach + Veronica / 36H-Regular Packrafting Route / 7 days
I did the hiking parts of 36H with Veronica. After hitching the Carratera I had a windless late morning paddle from the Lago Esmeralda picnic site where a group of military were training in rafts. Veronica described the hike to Lago Alegre. To start Lago Christie, Option X would put you better in line with the wind which was strong, blowing straight through the narrow all the way to the cozy refugio at the otherwise blustery southern end of Christie. Just past Salto Pérez there are two rapids visible from the road. Putting in after those, Rio Perez was a scenic and swift ride with avoidable submerged trees all the way to Rio Mayer, which is stronger than it looks. I put in again past the first mortal rapid and rode straight to the take out before the second mortal rapid. The waypointed rapids in between were very challenging, almost flipping me twice. After taking out of Rio Mayer, I hopped the black fence for option 27. The minor roads in this area are undulating and steep but well maintained with painted guardrails, bridges, and directional signage at intersections. I had a pleasant conversation with one worker on ATV. I tried to do Option 27E but the wind was too strong on the lake in the evening and also the next morning. Backtracking, I paddled the pleasant Rio Briceño between the impressive falls near the lake down to another set of falls near the lower bridge (between[-48.2710, -72.492] and [-48.2726, -72.4772]). The wind on Lago Briceño seemed calm in the cove of the sheltered picnic refuge/dock (km 251.6), but around the corner a strong headwind turned me around. The walk to Lago El Salto had commanding views. Lagos El Salto and Cisnes both provided tail winds. The short trail between these lakes was overgrown and difficult to follow, but it was worthwhile to follow the trail as bushwhacking often led to spiky plant jail. Tailwind continued all the way to the O’Higgins bridge. I highly recommend El Mosco Hostal/camping.
*2 to 8 of February 2023 / Véronica & Zach / GPT36H RR SOBO / 7 days
Route: Cochrane - Mirador Glaciar Colluqueo - Río Pedregoso - Paso La Picota - Río Bravo - Lago Christie - Río Mayer - Villa O'Higgins
We stayed at Camping Calafate while we were in Cochrane. Great camping area with a kitchen, laundry service, hot showers, and wifi for 6,000 clp per person. The owner is very kind too.
We were quite fortunate this section to enjoy good weather almost the whole way. We were able to hitch the first few km on the Carretera Austral. Then Zach packrafted across Laguna Esmeralda while I took the primary road on the RR to the east of it. Very little traffic on the primary road, and we walked most of it, only ended up being able to hitch a ride for the last 10 km or so, to the junction at 39.9 km where the RR becomes a minor road.
At that point it was getting late, and we wanted to camp at the waypoint Lake, Camp {36H} [109.8/334] along the minor road. We set up our tents, but after it was dark, around 10:30 p.m., we were surprised by the arrival of a man with a dog and a horse. Talking with him, we realized he was the owner of the land we were on, and his house was right nearby (we hadn't seen it when we initially set up camp). He said it was ok and that we could camp here though, that we didn't have to move.
The next morning, around 8 a.m., we packed our things and walked to the house, with the intention of thanking the man for letting us camp on his property. There were no signs of life around his house, so we assumed he might be still sleeping or was already out and about. So we left along the dirt road again. His dog followed us. We figured it would eventually return home. Afted ~6km, we were surprised by the settler coming at us down the road on his horse with his whip raised in a threatening way. He was very angry and upset at us about his missing dog, and initially thought we had taken his dog with us on purpose. We did our best to explain that the dog had simply followed us, we did not coax it or feed it, and that we were very sorry it followed us and had no bad intentions. After a bit of discussion, the settler calmed down and we were able to chat about where we were hiking and such. We seemed to part on good terms, but it wasn't a pleasant experience, and we wished we'd known that the land on the south shore of the lake where we camped belonged to a settler, and is not really a viable wild camping place. The GPS tracks only indicate "buildings" nearby, but that waypoint should say "settler" instead, and perhaps the camping waypoint by the lake should be removed. S 47° 30.166', W 072° 31.809' is where the settler house is.
The rest of the trail went well. The views of the various glaciers were wonderful, and we had mostly good weather the whole way. Zach took Option 36H-B that necessitates fording La Picota. It was early in the morning and he was able to ford it with the water reaching his waist. I took the regular route further west, which was a bit steep on shale rocks at first, but easy to follow.
The ford at km 77.4 was the most difficult ford in this section for me, the current was strong and cold and went up to my hips. Fording Río Bravo was easier, and we only did it once, next to the laguna. Option 36H-D had virtually no bushwhacking — there was a clear path to follow in the forest.
There were regular water sources between Puesto La Pampa (km 83.9) and Puesto Tablas (km 98.4), as well as occasional good spots to camp.
Once we got to Lago Alegre, I walked the regular hiking route east of the lake while Zach packrafted across with a good tailwind. Very beautiful trail, loads of crowberries and Calafate berries to eat too. I took Option 36H-G, where there is a large tree trunk you can walk across over the river. Zach packrafted Lago Christie as well, although the wind was much stronger in the afternoon. The refuge at the south end of Lago Christie is a good place to sleep out of the wind.
The roadwalk to town was quite scenic, with a few refuges along the way. Zach took the packrafting route while I stayed on the minor road. I ended up walking all of it except for the final 8 km. There was very little traffic, and I didn't mind walking through the gorgeous landscapes.
* GPT36H and Option 2 / Yannic & Mirjam / 22-Dec-2022 / Southbound
Regular Route to Option 2
We started from Cochrane and did the first part on the Carretera Austral by car stop. After that you get on a side road with very little traffic. We didn't have a car in 4 hours so we hiked. Then there was one that didn't take us, then nothing again. In the end we hiked everything.
We wanted to spend the night at Laguna Confluencia (south at Camp 109.8/334). Unfortunately we were surprised by barking dogs, but could not see a house. We therefore returned to the road and spent the night a few hundred metres further ahead in the meadow.
Next day on the Minor Road and Trail was nice and easy. We spent the night next to the Puesto Cayuqueo.
From there we went through the forest, which is partly badly damaged by storms. Many fallen trees. But you can always find the way again.
We then took the western route (not 36H-B). The river only has to be crossed once at a shallow point. Partly very sloping path, but easy to pass.
We crossed Rio Bravo at the lagoon, which was even possible in the evening.
We spent the night at the lagoon and hiked everything on the east side the next day. OH-CC&BB-A {36H-D} was well passable. Nice place to camp near Puesto Tablas at S 47.92184 W 72.56781.
Option 2
All went well and we were set for an "easy" exit via option 2 - which surprised us....
The path is up and down. Partly well passable and easy path, partly very overgrown (up to bush bashing). Although we had only light rain, the path was very marshy and matchy. We sank in up to our knees.
Nice refugio with fireplace at the end of the trail. The Carreteral Austral is not very busy. Cars only come when the ferry docks in Rio Bravo. It is best to check the timetable in advance. Then you can wait comfortably in the refugio.
El Mosco is perfect to wait for the ferry in O'Higgins. For us 6 days....
* GPT 36P/ Ruta de Los Pioneros/ Option Río Baker and Valle de los Ñadis/ Packrafting Route / 2022 Feb-20 / 9.5 days / Tobias Schorcht and Jonas Grünewald
I packrafted from Balsa Baker (Cochrane) 50km downstream. On this section I faced 2 rapids. The first one -47,41143, -72,90798 has to be paddled from the right side (between 2 rocks). After the river is united again, stay in the center to avoid the swirls on the right side. The second rapid (class 3) needs to be ported, at least the first 20m. At the confluence with Río de los Ñadis I left the River and met with Jonas. We took a 20km Roadwalk southwards and entered the Valle de los Ñadis. Unfortunately we didn’t had Jan’s new GPS Tracks in this Part and got kind of lost on day 2, because of a misunderstanding with a settler. Now we know, that the trail is all the way to family Caucamán on the right side of the valley. We shared a mate with Ariel Caucamán, who explained us, how to get to Lago Desplaye. Found the lake after some struggles with navigation and camped right next to it. Luckily there was only some wind the following morning, so we made it with my Packraft to the stunning Glacier. Followed the river bank of Río Desplaye down to Lago Allegre. I packrafted Lago Alegre and Lago Christie, while Jonas walked. I was faster because the wind was in my favorite. The weather turned really bad with strong wind and rain on day 8. We stayed in the Refugio (-48,20300, -72,33202) close to the airport and made a fire. Because of bad weather conditions we decided to walk on the road to Villa O’Higgens instead of discovering the lakes.
* Martín Lizondo / 3-Feb-2020 / Regular Hiking Southbound
At this date the route is perfectly traversable. The settlers are happy to receive visitors. Path well visible 95% of the time. No snow at the pass and no dangerous river crossings, but only some suggestions: 1. cross Rio Bravo only once (47º 47' 53,49" S, 72º 31' 15,78" O) and then continue on the east margin with some bush bashing, instead of crossing it multiple times; 2. consider crossing the dirty river of sector Alegre at 48º 2' 20,65" S, 72º 29' 27,81" O instead of the gps track regular point nearer to the house. Way to Villa O’Higgins, at the road, Julia Torres offers place for tent and great fresh food ( 48º 15' 41,47" S, 72º 25' 43,52" O ). Good luck and enjoy!
==Season Section Log==
[[Archivo:Greater Patagonian Trail (4).jpg|miniaturadeimagen|Greater Patagonian Trail, section 36]]
*2022 Dec Frank 6 days mainly SOBO
As weather was initially poor I split the section as follows:
1. Got bus from Cochrane towards Lago Brown, got out @ road junction near Rio Tranquilo bridge, walked NOBO back to Cochrane.
2. While I was waiting for the ferry in Villa O'Higgins I walked out about 25KM NOBO to Padre Antonio Ronchi chapel & hitched back to O'Higgins.
3. I again got the bus towards Lago Brown, got out @ the same junction & walked the central section of the route SOBO in 4 long days.
1. NOBO, nearly all on road. You pass by the 'mortal falls' on Rio Tranquilo (by the bridge) About 1KM further on the road was blocked by aggressive dogs who came up from a settlement about 800M off the road. I had to shout to the settler to call them off. Around 7KM out from Cochrane the road bends left at a metal crash barrier. I left the RR here & went over the low crash barrier & continued straight ahead on forest tracks, quicker & nicer than the road. About 1KM from Cochrane you return to the road by climbing over a small wooden gate.
3. I walked on the road past Calluqueo glacier then on a trail. After the first puesto the track fades out among fallen trees.
Camped by a ruined shelter. I crossed the river on RR the next day. La Picota crossing is for horses & best avoided on foot. The RR crossing was easy. After the crossing continue straight ahead & go up the far hillside, pick up a small trail going left above a bluff about 70 metres up. Continued over the 2 border passes. There are some cliffs you need to go round when descending the first pass . There will be snowfields early in the season also. I crossed Rio Bravo high up between two waterfalls, descended to cross it again by the lake, then stayed on LHS of Rio Bravo. No trail initially on LHS of river & a lot of bush bashing over bluffs but judging by later comments the route may now be improved. I continued down to Lago Alegre. There is a settler just as you reach Lago Alegre. She was friendly & allowed me to sleep in her barn. She radioed Ruben, the settler who lives on Lago Christie, to let him know I was coming. It's slow going round the lakes with lots of up & down over bluffs. The hut between the two lakes had been used by sheep & was not in v. good condition. I met Ruben about half way round Lago Christie. He was friendly but I continued on to camp by a ruined hut after descending from bluffs to the lake. I walked out the road to Padre Antonio Ronchi chapel & hitched from there to Villa O'Higgins. There is a good hut on the road at the junction with the X905 road. Another hut further on but it's dusty. All other huts marked on the route are in poor condition or ruined, they are mostly good for cooking & camping outside. The weather for the central section was good so I didn't have any problems. It's possible to hitch part of the road sections - traffic is sparse but they will usually stop. In both cases when you reach the road there is nothing, you need to walk out about 15KM & then start hitching.
* 2019 Dec / Olrik / Northbound
From O'Higgins there are 50km on a dirt road to the beginning of the sendero. There are some open refugios on the way to sleep. you can also arrange a paid transportation from O'Higgins. Hitchhiking is possible but there is not much traffic. The sendero was in pretty bad shape due to the weather conditions. Muddy and flooded all the way near the lakes. We ended up turning back as we did not plan to walk that slow and did not have enough food, and we felt it was safer. We met Matthieu (see below) and they completed it so his report seems better. Puesteros are really nice though.
* 2019 Dec / Matthieu / Northbound Regular HR : 9 days
The rest we didn't have any technical difficulties. A trekk not to take lightly, and with much respect. Take advises to the locals before. Every one is happy to talk about it in Villa. They have the bad habbit to say that it's an easy way though !
* GPT36H Regular Packrafting Route / Southern End: Laguna Clara to Villa O‘Higgins
====Elevation Profile of Regular Packrafting Route====
[[File:profile GPT36-p.PNG|frame|center|Elevation Profile of Regular Hiking Route (2019)]]
==Section Planning Status==
==Recommended Travel Period==
The biggest thing to realize about Villa O’Higgins is that nearly all of the lodging and restaurant options only take cash and there is no ATM in town. The closest place to withdraw money is Cochrane which is a 9-hour drive. Fortunately, there are two grocery stores in town thatl take credit cards. Lodging options vary from camping to a bed in a hostel.
====Shopping: Food====
Supermarket on the square in Cochrane. Several shops in Villa O'Higgins.
====Shopping: Fuel====
====Shopping: Equipment====
====Services: Laundry====
====Services: ATM and Money Exchange====
Banco Estado on the square in Cochrane. The ATM was open on Christmas day.
====Accommodation: Hostals and Hotels====
====Accommodation: Cabañas====
====Accommodation: Camping====
Cochrane: Campsite run by Patricia half a block from the Plaza. She does a good breakfast & also has Cabanas & a 4 bed dorm.
====Transport: Ground Transport====
====Transport: Ferries====
===Resupply on the Trail===
====Location, Names, Available Items and Services====
There are no resupply options & you should bring everything from Cochrane or O'Higgins. There are only two settlers living permanently on the central off road RR: A woman at Lago Alegre & Ruben on Lago Christie. All other off road puestos are only used occasionally.
==Access to Route and Return==
===Access to Start===
There is a minibus from Cochrane to Villa O'Higgins on Monday, Wednesday & Saturday at 8AM
& one from O'Higgins to Cochrane on Tuesday, Thursday & Sunday @ 8AM.
Operated by Buses Katalina, they have an office at the bus terminal in Cochrane.
There is a minibus from Cochrane to Lago Brown on Monday & Thursday at 11AM. It comes back from Lago Brown on the same days & passes the junction with RR at about 2PM.
===Return from Finish===
===Escape Options===