List of all GPT sections

You need to be logged in to save your edits (and on mobile view, you need to be logged in to start editing).

Add a new log entry always on top in the appropriate season sub-chapter and use format:

* '''Start Date to Finish Date (use Format YYYY-MMM-DD) / Duration in Days / Hiking or Packrafting / Travel Direction (SOBO for Southbound or NOBO Northbound) / Chosen Route and/or Option Name (RR for Regular Route) / Names or Alias'''

If you are packrafting, put the above info into HTML tags like this (if you follow a hiking route for part of the way, highlight only "packrafting", as above):

* <span style="background-color:aqua;">'''YYYY-MMM-DD / X days / Packrafting / SOBO / RP / Your name'''</span>.

Include remarks about your route useful for other hikers and packrafters, alerts, suggestions and personal perception of attractiveness and difficulties. Try to be specific. Do not be shy to fix obvious mistakes.

Season 2025/26

Season 2024/25

• 2025-JAN-11 > 13 / 3 jours / Randonnée / SOBO / RR > 19-01 > 19-02C > 19-02A > RR > 19-04A > 19-04B > 19-04 > RR / Pierre-Marie ​​

Etape : GPT14+GPT15+GPT16+GPT17+GPT18+GPT19 | Meteo : soleil | Eau : rare ou absente | Neige : oui | Intérêt : 5/5 | Difficulté : 4/5 | Danger : manque d'eau

Route et gravel road en plein soleil. Comme l'altitude est faible il fait très chaud. J'ai réussi à faire de l'auto-stop sur 10km seulement. Il y a beaucoup de taons malheureusement. Le soir je n'ai pas trouvé d'eau au début de la 19-D alors je suis allé au km 45,4 pour avoir de l'eau et camper. Ca m'a couté 5000CLP. Je déconseille le camping ici car il n'y a aucun service. Le lendemain montée au plateau. Le sentier n'est pas toujours en bon état mais ça se fait bien. Au plateau, la 19-01 est super et il y a plein d'eau. Sur la 19-02C il y avait aussi de l'eau car la neige fond. J'ai campé dans un petit cratère sur la 19-02A au point 40.520467° S 72.208066° W car il y avait un lac. J'ai bien fait de m'arrêter car un brouillard épais est arrivé quand j'ai monté ma tente à 17h30, et 1h plus tard il pleuvait. Ma première pluie depuis mon départ de Santiago il y a 47 jours. Le sentier de crête est vraiment magnifique et facile car le sol est très compact. Dernier jour, aucun taon. Il n'y a pas d'eau et je rempli ma bouteille de neige. Par chance il y a des nuages et il fait frais. La fin de la montée du volcan et le tour du cratère sont plutôt difficile car le sable est mou et la progressisn est lente. La rando est magnifique. La descente du volcan se fait bien. Ski sur la premiere partie, puis chemin très érodé après le refuge El Caulle. Je suis allé à Osorno en auto-stop. Les horaires Osorno<->Anticura sur google sont faux. JAN-14>JAN-15 : Repos Osorno J'ai commandé sur Amazon un filtre pour ma gourde, des pointes pour mes bâtons et des chaussures (taille 47) car introuvable en magasin. J'ai écrit l'adresse de la poste comme étant mon adresse. Mes 3 colis sont en dépôt 5 jours ouvrés dans une agence Chilexpress dans le centre ville. J'ai bien tout reçu.

• 2025-JAN-12 to 2025-JAN-15 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + OH (Var. 03 + 03-A) / Ivan, Jakub, Daniel

The stage begins mostly along a road, which had relatively heavy traffic on Sunday evening. Around Lake Maihue, there is a fence, but there are gaps with paths leading to the beach. Swimming in the lake was very pleasant. The water was warmer than we expected.

On the first evening, we camped at the ford over Rio Hueinahue [10.9/116] at coordinates -40.31647, -71.97186. There is a nice abandoned campsite here with a dry toilet, tables, and several fire pits. The ford [10.9/116] we crossed in the morning is long, but the current isn’t strong, and the water isn’t deep. After the ford, we didn’t follow the trackfiles but instead took the trail directly west (there’s a marked path in OpenStreetMap data), which turned out to be easy and without any issues, except for a gate at the connection to the road.

We considered taking Variant C but decided to stay on the RR and didn’t regret it. Passing through wild forests along a deeply cut path forming tunnels with leafy ceilings was worth the extra elevation gain. The rest of the route to Los Venados (km 39) is uneventful, and the trail moves quickly.

At kilometer 39.1, we chose Variant 03. Along the way, there are several gates, some for cattle but primarily marking the boundary of the private nature reserve Centrafuerte. The most prominent gate is at coordinates -40.39993, -72.08501, and it should be there a phone number to call for access to the reserve. We missed the number, climbed over the gate, and met the reserve staff later. The entry fee is 12,000 CLP per person, and entry is limited to 20 people per day. We had no issues with the limit, but in peak summer (February), it’s said to fill up quickly.

The trail is comfortable and well-maintained. It passes through a dead forest where all the trees dried out due to the 2011 eruption and the subsequent pyroclastic flow. The MR doesn’t follow the track files toward the end and ends at coordinates -40.510827, -72.118630, where there’s a shelter with tables, seating, toilets, and an information board with a satellite map of the area. Close to this spot are the hot springs (-40.510952, -72.123191)—bathing is directly in the stream, with a very pleasant water temperature. There’s also a simple shelter for changing clothes.

From the hot springs, we continued along the ridge between streams, and after a slightly wild and steep climb, we joined OH 03-A, which we followed to the connection with the RR.

The first flowing water after crossing the volcanic plain was at coordinates -40.59190, -72.13565.

The Refugio [73.8/1378] is in good condition—clean and well-maintained, with a stream running below it.

The final descent passes through beautiful Valdivian rainforests.

From the end of the stage, we hitchhiked to resupply in Entre Lagos. At the edge of the town, there’s a large supermarket called Iguazu. Hitchhiking required patience, but in the end, it wasn’t a problem.

• 2025-01-05 to 2025-01-0 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO/ Completely new option, RR / Natalie & Tomáš

Day one: Lago Ranco to under ridge - 17km

Through OSM, satellite and some records on Wikiloc, we were convinced an approach to Puyehue from the west existed. It looked appealing as it had a better "road to hike ratio", and extended the already scenic area. And of course a reason to paddle to Lago Ranco to resupply with better food (see separate Packraft post). Unfortunately, the total length of road walking is not shortened that much if you do not find a ride or order a taxi. The first 17 km is PR and MR. Taxis are not expensive in Chile so we arranged a pickup at our accommodation in Lago Ranco with Don Christian (Whatsapp at +56 9 5703 5726). He arrived on time and drove us to -40.38520, -72.44823, where a locked gate stopped us three km from our original goal. He asked for 17mil but we paid him 20mil even though it was in the end just 15 km (the price was technically 1000 per km). We met nobody going up and are unsure about access arrangement, the huge equestrian property after the gate seemed to belong to a wealthy landowner. Perhaps you can find out how to request permission if it becomes a problem. The first roughly 7 km is a not a very nice MR, it has been recently "improved" (we met a nice herd of luxury horses though). Five km in, a very solid gate screaming "money" is being built - it might create an obstacle in the future, but it should be possible to climb over it or go around. After 7 km, the road stops being passable by car. For hikers, it is actually a well passable but eroded and somewhat overgrown logging road made of logs, it has a feeling of a trail. The uphill was a struggle. We bought too much food, were lugging our packraft, and together with insects (tabaños and some new biting flies) and heat, we had to take many breaks. The bugs got so bad that we even built a tent for lunch. At -40.38520, -72.44823, there is an old refuge that would protect you from elements, which probably used to be the logging operation. Our first water was at -40.41466, -72.34625. The trail is being used, there were recentish cut marks and very fresh footprints. Also the place seems popular with beer drinking people as there was sadly a number of beer cans along the otherwise very pretty route. About here: -40.41708, -72.32830 you leave the old road and join a trail along the ridge, which is even prettier. There was quite a stream here: -40.43144, -72.30571 and from then on, water was plentiful. However, there are still large snowfields, so maybe it dries out towards the end of summer. Shortly after the stream we passed a four-tent group of Chileans at a perfect camping spot: -40.43223, -72.30665, who made the fresh footprints (so probably access is somewhar permissive). We did not speak to them and camped at -40.43400, -72.30895, which is even more sheltered.

Day two: Under ridge to thermas - 19km

Setting off at 9:30, we followed the faint trail marked with cairns to a pass over the ridge. The other side of the ridge was to a big extent under snow and we sometimes had to make detours to find side crossings over the many streams, so our progress was slower than expected. If one day our tracks get used, note that we were avoiding snow bridges. The rock here is different from later so some water should last until end of the season. Tabaños were again quite annoying. Between the snow, the trail was largely visible. After reaching a lowpoint slightly under 1300m, we started to climb, soon walking almost exclusively on snow. On such a hot day and with the reflection, being on snow feels like in an oven. Scenery kept being exceptionally pretty (and we have walked most of the GPT). We reached a ridge where 02A starts going down at around six. There was less snow here and we got faster. With less snow, you might want to take some water before you get over 1500m. We reached 02C around eight. Natalie was not as highly motivated by the evening walk to the termas and wanted to save her energy. So, I gave her our tent and set off for them. She ended up doing the ridge of 02a and the crater circuit the next day, see below, “Nat's notes”. It took me two hours to the hot springs after we split. You do not want to cut for the turnoff and in general want to keep a bit east from 02C to keep the high ground for the first two kilometres. Then follow the trackfiles. When going up the last ridge, you can veer left and aim through a lateral ridge for altitude 1550m and save some elevation, it is quite doable. You can then shortcut the way to the actual position of the thermas (see Tobias) down a miniridge that has some trees on it. Just keep to the trees (there are grass passages in between) and it is doable. Thermas are like Volcan Chillan on GPT8 - a hot stream with a pool, perfect temperature, a bliss. I arrived shortly before ten without needing to use a headlamp.

Day three: Thermas to refugio - 25km

I followed 01 to the OSM mark called "geyser" which is actually just a series of big loud impressive fumaroles. Above the thermas, there are few more smaller hotspring on the left, but not useful for anything. About one km after the thermas, there is steam on the left - fumaroles and sulphur, you will see it a few more times but still pretty. Avoided the last hill through here: -40.49220, -72.16946, but it probably does not pay the saved 40m of elevation. OSM route better than RR around the fumaroles (ground around them unstable). Again walking in an oven over the snow, skirting the new lava is pretty (though do not expect many views), just keep in mind it is unstable and ideally keep some distance (5-10m), I saw a significant rockfall from it that could kill you if you were in the wrong time at the wrong place. It is slow going. There is one more fumarole next to the lava flow, go around from the right despite the footsteps you might see there. Was happy to see Natalie's footprints once 01 connected, knowing she was hours ahead thanks to inReach. Took 04A, as others said: aim for the top, contour lines are misleading and traversing does not make sense plus you would lose out on the views. Saw Natalie on top of the highest point, but she did not hear me. Only then I realized there is a gap in the trackfiles and the mountain cannot (cliffs) be climbed from this side. Going down on 04A was indeed skiing (the snowfield is mapped as glacier, but if it is glacier, I could not see any crevasses, which might not have been the most responsible off me). Variant H is a trail. Met Natalie at refugio where in the evening water was still flowing, but in the morning it had stopped.

Day four - Refugio to primary road - 8 km

Easy going down, surprisingly little tabanos, second water not existent, met nobody down, so paid nothing, hitched an empty tour bus to Entre Lagos to ressuply almost immediately.

Nats Notes: Ridge of 02A & Rim circuit

Although I was a little mad at myself for not doing the night walk to the hot springs, I was really happy with a night on the plateau and everything that followed the next day. The camp spot where we separated had snow melt. I forgot to make a way point but it is seasonal and annually dependant anyways. The following morning I made an easy CC to the ridge on 02A. The snow was rock hard in the morning (7:30am, around 9 am the snow became "crunch-able" - that being a warm and sunny day). So, a warning to any early birds, unless you have micro spikes. There was only one baby slope I had to go down but it was enough to hurt my bum as I slipped down it (I accidentally dropped my hiking poles and they sailed down like a bobsled, so trying to get down the slope on rock hard snow without poles was next to impossible). Getting up the ridge was easy thanks to the consolidated pumice. It acted like mini crampons and my large pack and 3L of water did not make me feel insecure. At the top I felt rejuvenated. Beautiful views of the snowy plateau and the volcanoes to the south. For the first time I felt like I could gallop along the ridge because the terrain was so easy. There are ups and downs but they are less in number and larger in scale, for me I MUCH prefer this. The only thing that slowed me down were the 100s of photos I took! Along 02A, after coming off the ridge there was some surprise fumaroles and a large crater (not on RR but very close). Picture perfect with Puyehue behind it. The route takes you along a sulphur like rim around it that felt uncomfortably active, warm and hollow. So I side hilled at a safe distance and peaked over from time to time. My future plan was to do the crater circuit, but due to time and energy I wanted to try and and gain the rim closer to the north. So after the ridge I started to do my own CC which at first turned out to be continuous with 02A and the RR. I eventually left the RR around here -40.55454, -72.14794. Overall I think it would have been easier to stay on the RR for longer. I did not like the snow slope I hiked up and I did a few "back and forths" because of snow drop offs. Just before giving up on finding water, I found my first source just before heading to the rim -40.56451, -72.12754 . It is underneath the crater like depression north of the 04A accent route. It was, shall I say, "crunchy". Lots of sand/grit. I began my ascent to a low point on the ridge north of 04A and east of the crater like depression besides it. I did not like the final 200+ meters. I was expecting soft ground but instead got something just slightly better than "kitty-litter" (the term I use for small pebbles on slab/hard ground). Luckily when I kicked hard enough I made good steps (this is not the case with kitty-litter), sometimes the ground was soft. There was a snow slope but the snow was harder than I would have liked, glad I did not have to go down it. At the top, views were fantastic as expected but I didn't waste time and just started the loop. It was windy but not "body pushing" wind. Looking back I was glad to have bypassed 04A. The circuit posed few issues, there was some snow slopes, but luckily they were soft and I was able to kick steps down or up. I would not recommend doing this without micro spikes if the snow is NOT soft. If one wants a super easy way up to the rim, or needs and emergency escape, the slopes up the NE of the crater are very easy, starting around here (40.57497, -72.10480). I had to laugh at myself from time to time. I felt a bit out of place with a lifejacket and couple of paddles sticking out of my bag... The last push for the true summit had some snow on easy/mod slopes. Once again I wouldn't recommend it if the snow was not soft as a fall without self arrest would be a killer. There was a beautiful camp spot (no water but snow) halfway up this last push (-40.59310, -72.11426). Although very happy to have reached the final summit, my happiness strangely turned a little sad. As I marveled at the landscape that has become my friend over the last three years, I realized this was probably the last time I would see it at this magnitude. So much time has been spent with Tomáš investigating and executing ways up and down these mountains, it seems crazy that I may never look upon them again. So, that was a weird thought but overall it was very beautiful. I waited over an hour on top, I thought Tomáš was planning on going to this peak but when I found out he was on the other peak I made my way down to the cute camping spot at the Refugio, stopping to drink some water from a creek along the way (likely not running in the morning). The way down from the regular summit is easy and there is basically a path that sees regular traffic. I would recommend taking this way if you do not like climbing steep slopes, rather than the other alternatives.

• 2024-12-02 to 2025-01-03 / 2 days / Packrafting/ SOBO/ Lago Maihue (sort of 07), New: Rio Calcurrupe, Lago Ralco, / Natalie & Tomáš

Day one: The lake and river, 27 km

We started paddling at 8am with little waves and wind, then got to the end of the lake at 11. The river is not hard. It has a few rapids that are maybe 1+, but we managed. It has a lot of water, so wood is not much of an issue. The valley is very pretty. It flows nicely, with a lunch in the middle, it took us 4 hours to get down. We took out at Puerto Llifén around 5, traversing somewhat wavy Lago Ralco for a bit. There were some people on a quite and nice small beach. We were lucky to catch a bus to town. It has two fruit and vegetable shops and looked decent for ressuply (also good Entel internet). We went to Anita's rstaurant and after finishing eating, we asked for a driver as it was late and we wanted an early start the next day. She went nextdoor and came with an older gentleman who drove us 4 km for 4000 CLP to -40.23159, -72.26019, about one km from river end. Near the road end are some nice camping spots. There were some fishermen but nobody cared that we built our tent.

Day 2: Lake Ranco, 22 km

We woke up at 4:30 to use the calm morning hours. Shortly after dawn we were on the water and already had some waves and some low-lying clouds. The sunrise was beautiful (maybe the prettiest ever for Tomáš, who, being an owl, has not seen many sunrises in his life). Clouds moved in and the water calmed down (a local later confirmed this is the usual pattern, so probably the lake tends to be calm before noon). Went east of Llahuapi island, paddled two more km to mainland's peninsula. With lake being very calm, we went straight for Piedra del diablo, which we reached after three hours. The rock is well worth the visit. After a short rest, we paddled around the corner (2km) to town Lago Ranco, arriving at 12:40, giving us a half-day of rest and a good base for re-supply. Nat highly recommends the nut/bulk store just north of Conception street (Mr Manny; -40.3213804, -72.4739571). It is attached to a fabric store and likely looks closed. Just walk inside the fabric store and ask the friendly owner you'd like to buy some frutos secos. The nuts and dried fruit were of surprisingly good quality.

Overall, this is an attractive variant that can be recommended instead of RP for packrafters. Lago Ranco (good Entel internet) is an ok ressuply point with slightly pricy accomodation, but we negotiated a room for 50,000 CLP.

• 25-01-01 - 25-01-03 / 3 days / SOBO / RP, RR, variants D+E, OH1,a, OH4a,b / Volker

Day 0: I combined gpt 17+18+19. The day after my arrival in Currine, down from the 18, was a little bit rainy with better forecast for the next, but mainly for the days to follow. So I didn‘t hurry up and after resupply in Currine just took the boat over Laguna Maihue. There is a confusion with the names. The „port“ (the spot where the boat is leaving) close to Maihue (2,5km) is not called Puerto Maihue, but Maqueo. The boat goes to Rupumeica (Ru) and Carran (Ca), the route from Carran to join the RR is included only in the Packraft files. Time table for the boat for SOBO hiking: Mo, Th, Fr: from Maqueo either to Ru or Ca or both: 8.00 a.m. and 3.10. p.m., Sa+Su: 3.10. p.m., Tu+We no service. The crew on the boat told me, you find lodges in Ru and Ca if you ask, but I camped in Ca on the beach, very nice! Day 1: On a cool morning very easy MR walking on RP. The bridge at 15,6/31 is no longer maintained, the road bypasses it, easy access to water 100m from the junction with RR. The indicated camp at the lake at 35,4 may be lost, there is a new sign saying, that one can buy land around the lake. At Los Venados I met Clara, who also walked the 19 SOBO, so we did this section together. We took variant D to avoid a barbed wire fence and dogs, then E to rejoin the RR. No water at the indicated spots at 53,5, only from snow-patches. Camp at S 40.481514° W 72.137545° Day 2: Very easy walking, 25% on snow, now enough water. The volcanic chimney at 56,1 is very impressive and the hot spring on OH1 (500m before the indicated spot) a place to be. Highly recommended! Day 3: Blue sky, very, very scenic all the day long! We took OH01a to rejoin RR. The whole day the trail was mostly covered by snow (75%), so it was CC walking with easy navigation. Very few water, just flushy snow. Rather difficult to find a camp spot not covered by snow, flat and not too exposed to the wind. One at S 40.572582° W 72.135206° met at least the first 2 conditions. To secure your tent you will find some (but few) heavier rocks on the slope of Volcan Puyehue. Day 4: Steep CC ascent on Volcan Puyehue, on OH4a. if you stay 200m to the right of the indicated way, it‘s less steep and using the rocks in the upper part makes the ascent less physical. At the crater at 8.45 a.m. We did the tour around the crater (OH4b, highly recommended!) and arrived on the southern summit at noon (mostly on gravel, some parts on snow). Then steep but easy down to the refuge (water!), then fhe steep RR down to Anticura (close to no water at the indicated spots). Several gates on the last km, none has to be climbed. Arrived at 4.30, and hitchhiked to Entre Lagos for resupply and to organise a oossible boat transfer on Lagos Todos for gpt 21.

• 31Dec2024 - 3jan2024 / hiking SOBO / OH2 - RR - varD-E - RR - OH1 - RR - OH4A-B / 4days / Clara (joined Volker on the way)

Skip section 18 : Took me about half a day taking multiple buses (puerto fuy - panguipulli - los lagos - paillaco - futrono - llifen), maybe a bit longer on WE with less buses.

At llifen there is a camping/cabañas/hospedaje (15k for hospedaje) From there you can hitchhike to curriñe/P maihue (maybe there is a bus) Easy hitchhike to riñinahue to go for OH2. Also bus (first one at 8.10 am from llifen)

OH2 is not MR but PR almost all the way to los venados. When I arrive at 9am there were multiple cars, easy to hitchhike the begining, and I was even lucky to get a ride until RR. You have phone coverage here. Joined Volker at los venados.

GPT19 was one of the nicest section I did so far !!!

Water : demand some planning. I think we took our last water on a little stream a bit after los venados and then no more on the way up. At points water ? 53.5 and 53.7, there is just snow for now, not melting. Then snow up on the plateau that you can melt while walking but few stream.

OH1 : lot of fresh flowing water along the way and at the hotspring. Just snow on CC over the ridge. Then on RR lots of snow.

Water 68.6 : we found a little stream flowing at few meters (go up along the river).

The water points after the refuge on the way down were almost dry.

Camp : - water? 53.7 Almost flat spot with snow close to it, you can melt it but it's pretry much dirty. Inside the forest, wet.

- hot springs on OH1. So nice, perfect to camp and rest. Carefull the waypoint is not at the good place as said precedently.

- -40.57269,-72.13537. not wind protected. If more wind, maybe there are flat more protected spots before on RR. Really nice sunset.

Snow : a lot of snow walking on the plateau, it's physical but nothing hard or dangerous.

Navigation : -From los venados around km37 easy trail to follow. VarD-E to avoid the dogs at a fence but still 2 gates easy to cross on the variants.

-Until the hotsprings on OH1, it's trail sometimes marked with plots and rubans, easy to follow even with the snow. Stop at the geyser (cross RR - OH1), really nice to observe !!

-After hotsprings it's CC on a really nice ridge with beautiful landscapes all along. Not hard but deserve good wether conditions I think. Then go back on RR still CC going up and down on soft volcanic sand or snow. Easy to navigate.

-OH4A-B (cratere + summit Puyehue) : we climbed up somewhere between OH4A and the river flowing at point 68.5, not really following the tracks but we arrive almost at the same point at the end. The line was logic, steep, sometimes soft volcanic sand but no snow. OH4B : so nice tour of the cratere, must do if you have time + weather conditions. Long and physical as it's going up and down on volcanic sand or snow, sometimes steep. Summit is breathtaking.

Refuge : dry toilets there. Possible to camp around or sleep inside. Still water flowing down for now. Lots of tabaños.

Then skip section 20 : easy to hitchhike to entre lagos from Lican.

• Start 2024-12-27 // 3 days // hiking NOBO RR / Mara & Tobias

Amazing section, water in large parts (still a lot of snow up there), no difficulty’s with tabanos. Startet at 10 a.m. by the road, payed the entrance fee to pedro, hiked up to the refugio (still water there!) and continued to -40.57248, -72.13322 where we camped. Went up to the crater to see the sunset. Next day we walked straight to the termas. Position in the trackfiles22 is incorrect. The hot springs are 600 meter upstream at -40.46720 -72.20680. Camped there. Next day we went down in bad weather and luckly got a lift to Rininahue, where we rest and get ready for GPT18.

• Start 2024-11-25/ 5d / Hiking SOBO RR / Mo

From Currine to Rupumeica is a roadwalk but a bus is available, then a dirt road leads to Rupumeica Alto where a MR T567 leads to Los Venados, I hitchhiked, but there should be a bus. Then a MR leads to Puyehue, Neri and Hector had a locked fence and 3 barking dogs so I took OH to the right (fence, CCTV) where you will find water. The MR becomes a nice trail and then at the time higher than 1400m snow. I went to the hot spring on the plateau, I can recommend it. After Puyehue and also the plateau is easy walking on slopes, CC, trails. The refuge has 1 cover, melting water at the time and protects from wind, not completely. In the valley Olivia made a nice breakfast.

Season 2023/24

• 2024-Apr-08 to 2024-Apr-12 / 3.5 days / SOBO / RR B 01 04A 04B / Matthias de Austria

No Tabanos, flies, mosquitos, snowfields, fords. Cool weather, sunny with morning frost. Small parts of 04B east of the summit where icy. Lack of water in large parts. I filled up in the little valley on the way to the hot spring, afterwards I found no water anymore until 76. 1km. Water 53.5, 53.7 and 75.4km were dry.

Bus from Currine to Rupumeica Bajo, last stop at X 13.3km.

One of the best sections, I loved it. The long road walking in the northern parts is boring, but the hike afterwards through the woods is nice and the volcanic plateau amazing. Lot's of volcanic activity, and the detour to the hot spring is strongly recommended. I camped close to it, and stayed in the refuge, which has an oven for cold nights and offers weather protection, but is just a very simple hut with a table and bench and sleeping possibilities around.

• From 2024-02-29 to 2024-03/02 // 3 days // Hiking // NOBO // RR + Option 4 (summit) + Option 4B (cratere) + Variant D // Quentin Clavel

Anticura - Refuge - Puyehue summit - Cratere - volcanic plateau - geyser - Rio nilahue Lago maihue - Puerto maihue

After basic ressuply in Anticura, at "Tia Olivia" at Lican, point "Food, Lodging {19} [81.4/345]" but it's really in case of emergency. She's a very nice lady and has in stock Bread, cheese, big bottle of coca cola, some juices and frost empanadas that she warmup.

I was in emergency so I resupply there, but just to keep in mind it's not a minimarket or so, just a tiny tiny resupply possibility. Olivia is a charm we discussed a lot, and she even took from her personal reserve pasta and biscuits that make the next section easier in term of food !

After this resupply I just go for a big climb to the Refuge Without Water {19} [73.8/1378] first, mostly in the forest, then to the Summit {19-04} [2.0/2198] (Volcan Puyehue). On the way to go, only one fence to pass, then the track is well marked, even for the summit, lot of cairns helps you to find the way.

It's slippery and tuff ascent to the summit, but you just can't go around and avoid the absolute breathtaking crater ! I've done the option 4B, which is the hike all around the cratere, quite physical with all the ups and downs, but again, absolutely amazing ! For sure it was one of my highlight of this GPT so far !

Then the volcanic plateau was stunning too. Idk if it was because I was tired or something else, but the distances seems to me huge. You have the feeling that what you see is very close and you need a lot of time to go. It's a lot of ups and downs again, but scenery is amazing, the old lavas are incredible, and these geysers where here to finish the show. I had such a great time !

And then, you suddenly go on a forest which is a huge contrast, continuing long way down to the gravel. I was not checking my GPS and took the most obvious track, which is not even an option on the GPT files, anyway the track leeds me to the variant D, and I was able to refill my water, even if I was happy to find some Frome snowmelt on the volcanic plateau.

Continuing the way to the beautiful lake Maihue. Still always impressed how we can pass threw a lot of various landscapes in that so small amount of time !

Crossing Rio hueinahue wasn't a problem, if it would have been, there's always the option to continue the road and cross it on the bridge, on variant B, adding only 4 kilometers.

The gravel along the lake was very busy as it was the end of the day and everyone came back from the beach, fishing, boat cruise or anything else.

A lot of opportunities to sleep in camping, on the area of Maqueo/Puerto Maihue, even to eat on small restaurant/food truck and small minimarket (but there's a bigger minimarket further on next section)

• 2024-Jan-23 to 2024-Jan-25 / 2.5 days /Option2 + RR+VarD+E+A / Matthias

The route: (Osorno-) Riñiñahue(Lago Ranco) - Volcano Puyehue - Anticura (-GPT20)

Getting there: There are busses from Osorno to Rio Bueno and from RioBueno to Lago Ranco every 30 minutes, some direct connections also. From Lago Ranco to Riñiñahue buses 12:30 and 14:50 on weekdays.

My impression: Biggest challenge were by far the tabaños, which gave me the speed for long hiking distances, because in the valleys I could not even stand still to take a photo without being attacked ferociously. The plateau before vulcano Puyehue is spectacular with the geysers and lava flows. Ascent from north on RR a bit boring. Long stretch of MR and little views. Hiking is easy but tedious on the plateau (loose vulcanite ash). Several easy snowfields, the gully at 53.5 is tricky to cross though, but can be bypassed upstream.

Water: Requires planning your water resources! Last water on way up to plateau as mentioned by others about where Var E starts from Var D. Either you follow D 200m further and Dobson bushbashing to the left or on E shortly after start but also not very easy to reach. Water at km 53.5 and 53.7 now dry (I could get a liter out of a puddle), also km 68.6 and 69.2 are dry! Also no water near the hut, but plenty in between pass km 69.9 and about a km before the hug. On the plateau there is some melting water, but mostly it is very muddy.

• 2024-Jan-25 to 2024-Jan-28 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR - {19-01} - RR - {19-04A?} - ski off trail - RR - {19-H} - RR / Lilian

Camp beside the lake + Hot spring + Geyser + Volcano + Skiing = GPT19

Do you have any reasons to reject this section?

I take a bus at Maihue on 8:15pm. Arrive Rupumeica Bajo on 9pm, 1500 CLP. When i take off the bus, the driver told me there are some nice spots good for camping and swimming beside the lake, so i go west at x RR [13.3/144].

You can walk 1.2km to Puerto Rupameica "port[4.9/90], arrive the beach, then turn right walking on the beach to find a good spot for camping, but lot of car drivers thinks the same idea. So that beach is a little noisy and crowded even in weekdays night.

If you look at satellite map, there is a side road at (-40.31429, -71.98794), it is behind barbed wire fence, but a friendly locked gate at left side, climb over it then follow the road go down to the beach. Some nice camping spots on a grassland covered by bushes and trees with fire ring, good wind protection and privacy just before the beach.

Also you can camping at the beach, but the cabins and people at Hueinahue can easily look at you(too close). So i follow the beach to walk towards the lake's inlet shore. Lastly I camped at (-40.31074, -71.99001), beside the only tall tree(it doesn't covered me anything). I cleared a spot for a small single person tent, with 180° views of Lago Maihue. Bushes at back covered me for privacy.

RR km3.9 : tiny shop and food truck, (-40.32258, -71.96776)

X[13.3/144] : bus stop, i saw a bus arrive here at 9.10am. Then steep climb up on a good condition dirt road, but hot.

Km16.0 : junction of RR and {19-C}, {19-C} is in a better condition, so i go for it. But i recommend you keep going on RR, and NOT NOT NOT go by {19-C}.

Everything is good also i find a black pipe can fill water in bottles at (-40.33101, -71.98693) until {19-C} km1.4. Trail becomes very confusing, lot of side trail, cow path mix together, easy to walk on the wrong one.

Then the trail at (-40.33851, -71.98185) already taken back by forest, i still find some trace for trail(aluminium cans, wood cutting,etc), but it is not easy also not safe to walk. You need to walk on some groups of old blowdowns to (-40.33873, -71.98182) and rejoin the trail. The blowdowns itself or the gap between them, have a lot of big holes can eat your whole leg, most of the holes are covered by bushes and the blowdowns are a little slippery...

Then start climbing up at (-40.33909, -71.98165). All the ladders and wooden step are broken, also become a tarp for slide down. You need to climb up a loose sandy, muddy, grassy, steep slope that covered by lot of leaves. I have a feeling I'm still in GPT18 but in snow conditions climbing a overgrown snow slope...

At (-40.33978, -71.98141) rejoin a good condition dirt road, although it is shown in OSM, but I didn't see anything look like a road even a clear trail before climb up, so maybe south of the road also taken back by forest at some point. ( or the road going to some place that i don't know and not shown on map)

Then joined RR on a good condition dirt road.

I didn't see food truck at km23 that Martin & Helena said, maybe still not the season, or not open on weekdays noon.

Bridge[25.3/358] : Río Melipue flowing with lot of not clear water, a little yellow.

Then is a HOT, HOT HOT road walk steep up and down with lot of flies entangled in you, most of the time without tree shades, recommend hitch much more as you can. This part is not fun.

Km26.3 : junction of a private park, Parque Huishue. Some nice young care takers stay in the cabin behind the gate, they are very friendly and give me some water.

Camp[31.4/514] : good camping spot, don't camp too close to the lake(muddy). Lake with clear water. When you see the barbed wire fence, keep going 30-40m, you can go around some small blowdowns to get in easily.

Then my luck come, a friendly family give me a ride to Los Venados. Thank you save me from the hot nightmare. It is the second car i saw going west in the whole day.

Then my luck come the second time, Hector and Neri is at home(settle,food,refuge[45.4/537])! They help me refill my bottles with some priceless water! Huge thank you to them!

From km45.45, the road becomes a single track trail between some tall grass until km47.9, then it turns back to an old dirt road but lot of blowdowns, have to find a side trail for going around or just climb over them. And sometimes the road is flat and wide is good for camping.

Km53.1 : looks like is the old dirt road end, becomes a real trail, a broken old sign here too. Flat spot can fit 3 tents here. Some more flat spots just keeping forward, but need to take some minutes to clear out some sticks.

Water?[53.5/1330] : confluence point of three stream, but just muddy, no water.

Water?[53.7/1344] : because the water spot at 53.5 is dry, so i didn't check this one.

Km54.8 - km55 : camping spot at both side of the trail, also some more on dry riverbed.

Looks like Jens came here on a cloudy early morning, i found lot of water spot upon here.

At least 7 snow patches is melting beside RR and you can collect water from them, i just list out the biggest 3. These three snow patch still in a good size, i think can stand for 1-2 weeks more.

(-40.48984, -72.15159) : flowing good with a tiny waterfall (4sec/L) and puddle, you can dip bottles in puddle directly. Rocks in good shape for sitting nearby, so nice lunch spot with water here.

(-40.49050, -72.15348) : flowing good but stream is flat, collectable.

(-40.49142, -72.15752) : this patch is bigger also is flowing better than the first one, with tiny waterfall too! (3sec/L), easy to collect.

If these three are all melted completely, (-40.49351, -72.16296) have a huge snow patch as now, maybe this one can be a backup water source.

Km55.3 : view point for 6 volcanoes at left side, climb up to a tiny hilltop(-40.49068, -72.15235), if you are an exposed camping fans, flat spot can fit 2 tents 20m south of here for you.

Km56 : Geyser time! Explore this area, take your time. Follow the trail on OSM is a little better views of geyser than RR, also is safer i think.

After geyser then i go for {19-01} to hot spring.

{19-01} Km0.9, also a nice viewpoint on the tiny hilltop (-40.48937, -72.16603).

Km1.95 - km3.95 : walking in a green valley, lot of stream flowing with clear water, you can step over or rock hopping all of them, but mostly you will wet feet at last, because the trail crossing on a wet meadows(flowing water) and you have no way to go around. Also lot of camping spots you can find beside the trail in this area, but some of them still a little wet, maybe after one month will be perfect.

Km5.0 : go down into a valley that look dry, better collect water at here(upstream) or the previous valley, because downstream in this valley is hot spring water.

Km6.0 : alga in stream, and water temperature changes!

Km6.2 : camping spot(no wind protection) can fit 3-5 tents at right side, with an amazing hot spring pool(-40.46710, -72.20664)! PERFECT temperature with a pool can soak all your body inside when you sit down in the water. HIGHLY RECOMMEND camping here and take the hot spring before night, you can soak in the pool with a beautiful sunset too!

When i was enjoying the hot spring, a helicopter fly to here and landing, then some locals comes to join me too! Looks like it is a famous spot for them.

Hot spring water flowing all the way to downstream, so you can soak in it at the point you like. But temperature is dropping when it flowing, hot spring[6.8/1415] becomes warm water, good for noon under the hot sun, but not enough for night or early morning soaking. Trail leads you to hot spring[6.8/1415], then no more trail.

Then the ridge walk(OH-CC-A[6.8+6.5]) is fun and no difficulty, just climb up, go down and enjoy the views. Some snow patches, go around or walk on it easily.

Km7.45 : water spot(-40.46983, -72.21372), flowing low by a huge snow patch melts, clear but not easy to collect.

Km8.7 : water spot(-40.47824, -72.20501), flowing low by a huge snow patch melts, i saw water flowing when i was on trail but didn't get close to check.

Km11.25 : water spot(-40.49723, -72.19122), flowing low with clear water by a huge snow patch melts, i dig a puddle for dipping my bottles. Good water! Then rejoin RR.

RR km59 - km62.4 : go around lava fields, not difficult but lot of up and down, also need to go around some snow patches.

RR km60.6 : water spot(-40.52296, -72.17607), flowing low by a huge snow patch melts, clear but not easy to collect.

Km60.8 : climb the tiny hill(-40.52470, -72.17420) at left side, viewpoint of Volcán Cordon Caulle and its lava fields.

Km61.1 : water spot(-40.52673, -72.17332), flowing low by a huge snow patch melts, clear but not easy to collect.

Km61.8 : flat spot(-40.53143, -72.16976) can fit 2 tents with views of Volcán Puyehue.

Km62.7 : small geyser(-40.53782, -72.16450).

Km63.3 : better route going up to 1610m hilltop. Take the small valley at (-40.54327, -72.16187), climbing up gently, then turn right at (-40.54309, -72.16096), follow the valley all the way go to the top. I saw 3 cairns along this route.

Km65.4 : water spot(-40.55234, -72.14982), flowing low by a huge snow patch melts, clear but not easy to collect. I didn't see any more clear water for a while on trail after this one.

Km67.6 : snow patches. Walking on it and going to other side of valley. Then you can follow the GPX track or like me, walking on snow patch valley (-40.56967, -72.13232) avoid step over many gaps here, go to the junction of climbing Volcán Puyehue.

Climbing Volcán Puyehue on {19-04A} is a not easy route, steep climbing up on a losse tiny stones slope about 40°, when you get higher, it becomes more steep. Tired cilmb up, then i think it is a little dangerous to going back down at the same way, because too steep.

I didn't follow GPX track, because it looks really steep, i start climbing up beside a stick (-40.57372, -72.13363) at RR km68.25, then towards a little south(-40.57842, -72.12614) of the peak going up. Then join the ridge for last climbing up to the top. At about 1950m-2000m , you'll find some step trace that can follow all the way to top and easier to step on, but the ground becomes much loose when going up more. You also can follow them to going down after the summit.

Enjoy the views of crater, it is melting, but a blue lake in the middle, so beautiful!

At the top, {19-04A} is impossible to connect to south on the rim as now, because is blocked by a snow wall, but you can going down a little, go around it climb up again to the rim, if you really want.

From some observation at high, I find a SKIING ROUTE that can ski down all the way to pass[69.9/1764]. (This route is ski by shoes, not sit down and slide.)

It starts on 2110m(-40.57839, -72.12569), join snow slope here. Then skiing to SSW, water spot at 2035m(-40.58039, -72.12646), it is melting by the super huge snow slope you just ski down, i think it can stand at least one month or more. The water spot have a tiny waterfall, easy to collect. Fresh, clear, cold and taste good! I love this water!

Then step on the snow again at 2030m(-40.58108, -72.12689), now ski to SW, to 1945m(-40.58436, -72.12988), then 1900m(-40.58484, -72.13278), then 1835m(-40.58634, -72.13552)(it have a gap about 20m no snow), lastly ski to rejoin RR at km69.8. But i saw nothing there , so i ski a little bit more and find some walking trace at 1770m(-40.58640, -72.13791), looks like parallel to RR. I took about 35min from the start of skiing to here, including refill water bottles and finding the way on map.

I camped at (-40.58964, -72.13953), a little flat with some rocks that i can hold my tent on a sandy ground. A little off trail, but super amazing views of Volcán Casablanca, Volcán Puntiagido, Tronador, Lago Puyehue and Río Golgol, with a fantastic sunset moment!

From km70.4, you'll find a trail and cairns along RR, some of the trail is already landslide away and still covered by snow patches, but most of them is easy to follow.

Km70.55 : (-40.59245, -72.13560) flowing good by a super huge snow patch melts, milky but easy to collect. A black pipe leads water to other place too.

Km70.7 : water spot(-40.59349, -72.13423), flowing low with a tiny waterfall by a huge snow patch melts, clear and easy to collect.

Km71.6 : flat spot(-40.60105, -72.13406) can fit 2 tents. Someone camped here before, built a tiny rock wall, but too tiny I don't think it can provide wind protection in a really windy condition.

Km71.9 : junction. It is impossible to climb up or go down by {19-04A} at here as now, a huge snow wall about 60° block the way. Lot of water is flowing at here, main stream is not too clear, but you can find clear water from some smaller one. Upstream 15m for rock hopping dry feet crossing.

Then i took {19-H} going down, because RR looks like need to walking on some loose sandy slope. At (-40.60459, -72.13491) i find a clear trail that leads all the way to rejoin RR at km72.75. No landslide, no loose rocky or sandy, just walking on a grass slope easily.

Then RR is a clear trail in good condition to follow and walk.

Refuge[73.8/1378] : refuge with picnic table and fire ring, good spot for lunch and overnight.

Then RR still easy to follow but a little steep and a little slippery, i almost slipped down in several times.

Water[75.4/992] : flowing low with clear water, easy to collect. After here, trail conditions become better, no more slippery.

Water[76.1/884] : flowing very low with clear water, have some small puddles at upstream. A spot for climbing break, log seats and tree shades here.

Km77.9 : trail becomes dirt road, cars parking at here, some grassland flat spot with fire ring nearby.

Then all the way road walking go down to Licán and Anticura. Didn't met any people charge me for entrance fee.

I didn't see any shops nearby, just a restaurant at (-40.66624, -72.17463), you can go through their gate(-40.66843, -72.17218) to there. They provide good food and fast wifi. I look at their board, looks like they accept USD and EURO at here. (I don't know can money exchange or not)

• 2024-01-18 to 2024-01-21: Fangwen and Tobi / 4 days RR + Option 04A + Option 01 + Option 03 / NOBO hiking.

Great section with great views! Very enjoyable. Not much to add to the other reports. We took the bus to the intersection with the Puyehue hot springs, hitchhiked from there (not a great spot for hitchhiking, but it works). Didn't see anyone at the trailhead and hence didn't pay. We passed by a small steam on the way up, but I would not be surprised if it sometimes dries out. The first night, we stayed by the hut. A small stream made it's way to the hut in the evening, so we got lucky and could refill. Second day, we climbed up to the scenic crater via option 4a. The ascent through loose scree was a bit tiresome, but made for an awesome shoe-skiing descent. The "Water ?" at km68.6 was a snow covered stream, but we were able to get some water from a melting snowfield. We camped at km64.6. The next day we went via an interesting ridge hike to the hot springs (option 1), which is a river in a nice valley. There are multiple spots to get into the river, upstream is hotter. But it was a hot day, and the tabanos were relentless, so we moved on to camp in the next valley, at S 40° 29.078', W 072° 10.870' or roughly at {19-01} [3.0]. This is a beautiful valley with good access to drinking water (not sure about the hot springs -- I wouldn't drink that water). Just before rejoining the regular route, we marveled at the volcanic gas vents at S 40° 29.651', W 072° 09.651', or 100m W of km56.1. Even if you are not going to the hot springs (which you should!), make sure not to miss them. The descent was relatively unspectacular. We accidentally took an unintended route down (19-D I think?), but it wasn't an issue. Our plan was to hitchhike from km37.4 out to Lago Ranco, but it took over an hour to find a ride, since only few cars passed by.

• 2024-Jan-12 to 14 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / Argentina, completely new option, Villa Lago Meliquina to Villa Traful / Natalie & Tomáš

[Note 2024 November: This is not in the GPT yet at all, but it is in our suggestions in the 2024 Track files. This is a part of an alternative Argentinian route connecting GPT16 all the way to GPT21. In our opinion, for hikers it is probably better as it involes a lot less roadwalking and is very scenic (and the roadwalking there is is mostly easily hitchable). It might be slightly mode difficult than the RR. This is especially useful when coming from the Villarica traverse. What follows is roughly what corrresponds to GPT19, previous log is in GPT18, next in GPT20. Look also at Hannes von S report who followed us: https://www.facebook.com/groups/222224388283455/posts/1763867210785824/.

Our pictures: https://www.facebook.com/groups/222224388283455/posts/1758304798008732/. Our second Facebook post (Natalie somehow wrote it down twice): https://www.facebook.com/groups/222224388283455/posts/1732579750581237/]

Summary: Starting in Laguna Meliquina and hitching to Lago Filo Hua Hum, we traversed up and over to Laguna Trufal, took a boat to Trufal proper.

From Laguna Filo Hua Hum we crossed up and over via Cerro Escuadra ridge and towards Sendero las Mellizas trail. There was some minor scrambling. For crossing Lago Trufal we organized to be taken back on a day tripper boat coming from Trufal by the help of settler, Felipe. However, thanks to Tomášs' curiosity, he found a good trail along the lake that takes you to the end of Lago Trufal, thereby avoiding the need for a boat. If you want, the boat company info is here; Eco Traful, (0294) 15-4201952. It cost 25mil each cash, we bargained it down to 20mil each (extortion). The ridge and plateau were mostly CC and there was only some minor BB from the ridge down to Mellizas (if you find the settler trail). It could possibly be done in 1 long day, it took us 1.5days, not counting the extra day spent with Felipe. Technically you are supposed to register with parks but there is no actual name for the trail so not sure how you would; https://www.nahuelhuapi.gov.ar/zonas_habilitadas.html.

1) Meliquina to Laguna Filo Hua Hum: We were lucky and got a hitch directly from the tourist stand in Meliquina to the camping spot on Laguna Filo,-40.50075, -71.29960. If no hitch, it is a ~ 20km road walk but hitching should be easy. Possibly the river could be packrafted. There is a small creek near the camping to fill up on, take a lot as there is no water until after Cerro Mesa, which could potentially be dry in late summer months. There is technically a water source we found before the climb up to Cerro Escuadra near a large grass pasture but you will have to walk off route to get to it and once again in late summer months it may not be there. 2) Laguna Filo Hua Hum to Cerro Escuadra, Mesa and the plateau: From camping Laguna Filo there is a good trail to start off with from the back of camp, it is even marked in yellow: -40.50075, -71.29960. However after a view point the trail becomes less clear, you can take a short cut up a steep hill after the view point or keep following the trail even though it can disappear from time to time [November 2024: The trail is now on OSM]. Eventually the trail takes you to a very large grass pasture beneath the climb for Cerro Escuadra, camping paradise if it wasn't for the wind. We camped early here once we found a water source (-40.52378, -71.30019), as camping on the ridge would be very windy and dry. I believe this cow pasture is the link to Felipe the settler on lake Traful, where there could be a much more direct way to the other side, open for exploration [some exploration options based on scoutin Google Earth are in the suggestions].

From the cow pasture, you make your way to the ridge, a good trail at first but then once on the ridge proper, it disappears. I went left to side hill the difficult looking ridge top that lay ahead and Tomáš of course continued the ridge proper. After this, it is an easy walk along a broad ridge connected to the peak. The peak is not so much a peak but a large plateau, easy walking. Eventually the plateau ends via a cliff drop so you must find our scramble to the right, we made cairns but forgot to make a waypoint, it is roughly somewhere here -40.53296, -71.30956 . From here there will be about 3 ledge systems you have to scramble along and down but only the very first one is possibly class three (low) [SAC T4 if at all, not exposed]. When you get down you can admire the look back and wonder how you got down! From there you can either stay low and avoid Cerro Messa and a slightly ugly scree or snow descent by aiming around here -40.53743, -71.32863, you may find the start of Felipe's horse trail here as well. The other option is to climb Cerro Mesa and exit i's steep ridge here -40.53812, -71.32576, then cross down and to the right to connect to the rest of the ridge/water source. The descent here is steep but surprisingly soft, if there is snow I advise against it, it is not hard to go around the other way. The rest of the ridge has a magnitude of colors and minerals. It is a small section but if you look at your feet and not the sky you will see lots of different gem like rocks (and/or copper). Personally I think Felipe might be sitting on a gold mine! Speaking of Felipe, this is where we first met him, he appeared out of nowhere and I felt star-struck, if you meet him you will know what I mean, his posture and attire look as if he left the scene of an old Argentinian cowboy movie. He explained to me that he lived down by Lago Trufal and that this was his land and I should have a park registration, but didn't care so much about the park stuff. He was caring and let me continue even though the route I explained to him didn't make any sense.

Going forward you will be on Felipe's trail for a bit and see a green patch ahead that may or may not have water. If it should, it could also serve as a camp spot -40.55045, -71.33970. From this grass patch you can follow Felipe's trail if you can see it, it goes through and around some rock structures and then up to a very large plateau. The plateau is marked with some cairns, the area just before the plateau can be marshy. The plateau itself has some ancient looking cairns, but basically you need to aim for this ridge outcrop over top of a cow pasture here -40.56308, -71.33350. The cow pasture below could also be good camping.

3) Plateau to Lago Traful/Felipe's house: Originally we had planned to follow this outcrop and bushbash to the lakes, maybe this could still be done but the bush looks awful and to our surprise we found a trail in good shape below the ridge outcrop. From the ridge outcrop there is another "grey" like ridge that runs perpendicular and into a forest. If you follow this grey ridge it shall take you to the start of a pretty well maintained trail. Take this trail down and into the trees, after it passes over to the left of a tree ridge, it becomes easy to loose as tree fall has created numerous small trails in bad condition. We found the best one (or not, who knows) and followed it down some more until we crossed two creeks. After the second creek the trail totally vanished so we went back to the first creek and walked "down the creek bed". We walked down the creek bed for maybe 1km, it was not hard or dangerous adn not bush-bashy. We eventually found a trail again somehow and followed it all the way down into the valley where there is a large fence separating Laguna Verde from Laguna de los Juncos. There is some nice camping under the forest at the bottom before you hit the gate. However, although technically you are supposed to have a guide, there are petroglyphs in pretty good shape here -40.61891, -71.31079. Night and rain was approaching so we walked to the flat part between Laguna Verde and Blanca to set up camp, just after a puesto. You will have to grab water from the stream near the petroglyphs for camp.

Not knowing how the boat situation would evolve, we left camp very early in hopes to catch a boat that had dropped of day trippers for the day at the drop off point here -40.63958, -71.34857. Luckily, bcs the standard trail near the end is slightly overgrown we took a different way to the beach and this is how we met Felipe again. He has one of the most beautiful properties I have seen so far, ancient wood craftsmanship throughout, lots of little animals and also numerous expedition tents permently set up for some type of turismo I assume. His settlement is here. He told us that there would not be any boats that day due to high winds but he could arrange a boat for us the next day, he also offered his place to camp and out some wood on the fire for a hot shower. With a glorious free day in front of us I chose to go back to bed and Tomáš went back to Sendero las Mellizas to explore.

On his trip he found a good trail that followed the shoreline all the way to the start of Laguna Trufal, thereby avoiding the need for a boat. After he got back from that exploration he went on to explore the other side of Las Mellizas we did not see, towards Lago de los Juncos. Once again he found another path that seemed to follow the river there, towards the end of Lago Traful, thereby meaning one could even take that route, but will need to be verified [November 2024: Hannes did verify it. Also all these trails are in OSM now]. The next day, although he did not ask for it, we paied Felipe 10mil for camping and gave him half of a melon Tomáš had been carrying in his bag for the trip, Felipes wife was very happy! Felipe walked with us to a different boat pick up location and sure enough a boat came and took us on their way back. It was a fun ride but not free. As expected it would not be cheap, since the boat is run by a tourism company we payed 20 thousand each once back in Trufal. The company information is listed above. There was no cell phone reception at Felipe's but there was reception on the ridge outcrop before the trail took us down to the lakes, maybe you can arrange something there or take the lake trail to the end of the lake and avoid the boat. Trufal proper was nothing special: Bad internet. The main mini supermarcet was okay, it definitely met our needs but nothing fancy. It had veges/fruit, fresh baked bread loafs and good cheese and deli meat. There was an expensive restaurant near the trailhead we took after our resupply that had very good sandwiches and empanadas. The sandwich (10 thousand) was served on foccacia bread and was enormous. The park office was closed. so we just started hiking that afternoon without reservation/paying.

• 2024-01-08 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + option 4a/ Jens

From what people have written before, I thought I would find a more impressive stretch. Up to Neri and Hector's house it is a gravel road in the forest with no views.

There is a bus from Currine at 2pm that goes all the way to Rupumeica Bajo. There may be more buses, I didn't ask.

Up to km 45 (Hector's house) there is a good water supply. Starting from the house ( their friend Erwin housitting, offered water). I only found water at the marked spot at about km 55. There was only a very small stream, more like a puddle that might dry up soon.

There was no water around the volcano until about 5 km from the refuge. The refuge has no water. The small stream next to it dried up a few kilometres before. Bring water from there if you want to stay overnight.

I climbed the volcano on the west side (option 4a). It was scree all the way up. I thought about turning back more than once, but the view was worth it. The descent on the other side was a bit easier. I "skied" down the snowy slopes.

• 2023-Dec-18 / 5 days / Packrafting / SOBO / RP + RR (Variant D, E) / Lauren & Sebastian

First things first: This section was absolutely spectacular!

Water: We filled our 3L of water each whenever we could and didn’t need to worry; snow from 1350m

We started packrafting at GPT19 start point but had to abandon Lago Maihue after 2km, as head winds were too strong. We hiked south on RH until a bus took us to Rupumeica Bajo. We stayed at the campsite ($) at -40.3143, -71.9913. The owners live in the house across the road.

The next morning we crossed with the packraft to wp Lake {19} [9.6/90]. From there it is a long but enjoyable hike along MRs to wp Bridge {19} [37.3/296] where we camped for the night. Recommend to hitchhike this part if you can, as the heat and heavy backpack (due to full food supplies), made this road walking tiring - and you will need your strength and endurance later! There is a water point at -40.3757, -72.0647.

The next day we went along RR and met Hector and Neri on our way to their place. They were heading out in their truck but we had a short and lovely chat with them. We passed the two locked gates on Option D and connected by Option E back on RR. We camped at -40.4721, -72.1247 at 1100m, a nice flat spot in the upper part of the forest. It is less than an hour from wp Water ? {19} [53.5/1330] where we refilled the next morning.

Breaking out of the forest into the plateau was breathtaking. Snow was mushy and walkable with trail shoes and hiking poles. Progress is slow. Keep a close eye on your gps to avoid backtracking. It took us 2 days to cross the plateau and we camped a night there with initially windy conditions that eased. There are a few good flat spots around the halfway mark on the plateau. Snow also gradually decreases after the pass and trail visibility improves. We then stayed a night at wp Refuge Without Water {19} [73.8/1378]. There is water at the refuge now, but filling up at one of the water points further up felt easier and more accessible to us.

From the refuge down to the end of GPT 19 is steep at first, but good and easily findable trail (approximately 3 hours).

• 2023-12-04 to 2023-12-07 / 4 days / Packrafting / SOBO /RR (Option 04A) / Roman

Hitchhiked to started packrafting here Port {19} [2.9/103] (Puerto Maqueo) easy access to water. Very good conditions (10:00 am). Went on land and followed the RR. Very good condition. Like in 02/23 locked gate and no one around at Hector and Neri’s place. Pitched tent at -40.480692, -72.135769. Snow starts at 1350m. Water was available. I would recommend having sunglasses (preferably glacier sunglasses), suncream, and a hat. The next 2 days were hiking on snow with constant snow exposure. The snow was a bit slushy but manageable. The trail was due to the snow not visible but you can just follow the GPS. Went from the RR via Option 04A to the Volcano and back. Slept at the Hut. Water was available due to the melting of snow. The way down is easy. Hitchhiked to Entre Lagos.

Overall: good trail, nice views no major challenges would definitely recommend it.

Contact: https://linktr.ee/RundW

• 2023-Nov-29 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / OH-02A + OH-02 + RR (Variant D, E and G) / Tom Pieper

I first attempted to make my way to the plateau by Option 02A. This is not possible as the entire lower trail lies within the private park Parque Futangeu. The entrance fee would be $15.000, camping is forbidden and access to the upper parts is blocked by private property of one of the park owners. Park is strictly fenced and has a guarda del parque. So this is definetly no Option for ascent but maybe for leaving the plateau NOBO. I easily catched a ride on Option 2 to the RR. The gate to Neri and Hectors place was locked, therefore i passed the two locked gates on Option D and connected by Option E back on RR. As others mentioned water is scarce all the way up, but a little creek can be easily accessed from Option D just 200 m after Option E has branched (S 40° 25.785' W 072° 06.839'). Good camping spots when Option G reenters RR. Saw wild boar nearby. Snow starts apruptly at 1300 m within the forest. Mystic atmosphere but hard walking. Lots of patagonian woodpeckers around. Snow increases gradually and I decided to leave my backpack near the Water ? {19} [53.5/1330] which was nearly covered by snow but provides already fresh water. At the rim of the plateau (1550 m) the views were spectacular but the plateau is impassable right now as it has meters of snow there. So I returned back the same way to Rininahue.

• Recommendation Jan Dudeck in November 2023: Based on the STRAVA Global Heatmap

(https://www.strava.com/heatmap#12.18/-72.09488/-40.50378/hot/all) the Route GPT19 Option 3 is open and used again (we got severely stuck in bamboo in November 2013). This route might be slightly faster but makes access to the hot spings "Hot Spring {19-01} [6.8/1415]" a big detour. Due to the river crossing this route is only recommended northbound in December while the snow on the plateau is melting. This places the river crossing at the beginning so it's easy to return to the regular route if the river ford is not manageable. This Route GPT19 Option 3 might be beneficial when the weather window of decent weather for crossing the plateau is rather short.

Season 2022/23

• 2023-FEB-10 - 2023-FEB-13 / 3 days / hiking / RR + volcan summit + termas - round trip from south / Louis, Rémi & Noé :

I wanted to precise one thing that I haven't understand : Santiago has a restaurant, near the road and a refuge (waypoint refuge no water). You have to check in at the restaurant to pay the 15k CLP /pers. This price includes a night in the refuge (there is nobody in there), access to volcano and a night at the camping near the restaurant (with cold shower for free).

Day 1 - Refugio El Caulle - 8km - +1000m/-0m First day going up to the refuge. We took the bus from Osorno, the only one going to Anticura leaves at 6pm but you have plenty of others going to Termas de Puyehue (going to Aguas Calientes). From there, 15km of hitchike, very easy. Then, the rise until the refuge in a beautiful and green forest. There is water upward the refuge, 15min walk.

Day 2 - Volcan Puyehue + camp El Domo - 13km - +1300m/-1100m The caldeira of the volcano is superb ! the path is well traced until the summit. Then, we did the round of it and went down on the opposite side. We camped at the "El Domo" camp, located on Santiago's map, around km XX. Water is available just before it.

Day 3 - Termas - 17km - +700m/-900m Under the rain, it's not easy to navigate on the volcanic plateau. I would say that a navigation device is mandatory. Hot springs are very enjoyable after such a day under the rain. There is drinkable water before the hot springs (1km).

Day 4 - Back to Restaurant El Caulle on RR - 32km - +1300m/-2400m A long day, even longer under the rain but doable. The restaurant was closed when we arrived (a Monday at 7pm). Santiago selled us basic food (pasta, sauce, eggs (a bit expensive)) and he opened the doors of his barn for us to sleep dry. The only bus going down from here to Osorno leaves at 7:30am.

• 2023-Feb-04 to 2023-Feb-07 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Martin & Helena

Great section, after a lot of forrest trails it was nice to see again something totally different and quite similiar to the landscape of GPT06. We were a little irresponsible with the water so better plan carefully.

The beginning around the lake is just road walking with quite a lot of traffic, depending on the weekday, but its better to avoid it, we didn’t feel always safe with more cars passing by. There should be ferry that goes on the other side of the lake. Good restaurant at around km 2-3, the one with empanadas to go in the house above the restaurant (reealy good). We camped behind a gate at km 5.7, below one of the miradors. At Hueinahue we went down to the beach we have seen from the road, hoping to buy some food, but nothing was there except of crowds of people. We crossed the river to get back on the road, but it would have been better to return back really. MR continues for the next almost 30km, but its quite nice walking through forrest and around settlements. Food truck with empanadas and some drinks at km 23 was a nice surprise, but might be there only in summer. Great place to camp by laguna at km 31, but its shores are all muddy.

Bridge at km 37 is the last reliable source of water so keep it in mind! When we got to the start of option 03, there was only locked gate and no one around at Hector and Neri’s place. Because of that we went with 03, and after 2 locked gates joined the CC variant and back on the RR. There is probably some tiny stream at the CC part but not easily accessible. The way up on the RR already was relatively easy with a few fallen trees that you can always walk around. We were hoping to find some water at km 53.5 or the one next to it but it was all dry already, just like many creeks that we have seen over the treeline. This became a problem for us, and the first water we found was at the big plateau you have to descent to in order to continue to the lava field and further. We didnt turn left at the beginning but continued straight to a few snowfields that are still big enough and on a hot day we could gather water from the snowmelt. From that point its about half a day to the next water (close to the start of descent down to the refugio and valley) so again good to take as much as you can. We didn’t have to pay anything at the end of the section as someone told us, this might be the case only in NOBO direction, or it was because we went there later in the evening. We camped on a yard of family living across the road for 5k CLP, they sell some basic food and its possible to have a shower there as well. Bus to Osorno and Entre Lagos as well leaves early in the morning around 7 AM we think but rather ask.

Contact: @martin_hanzelka @helenneka

• 2023-JAN-28 - 2023-JAN-30 / 3 days / hiking / NOBO / Yannic & Mirjam

Much has already been explained in great detail, so we will be brief: We saw no one at the entrance and therefore walked through without paying an entrance fee. The two water streams in the forest are dry and there is no water directly at the refugio. However, there are still snowfields about 1-2 km further up from the refugio which provide enough water. There was still enough water at 68.6. After that, there were still isolated snowfields, but partly further away from the trail. We spent the night between the lava rocks at S 40.53312 / W 72.16869, as there were still snowfields there, which we used for drinking water. After that, there was no more water until we reached Neri and Hector's house. The two of them were so nice and filled up our water. They charged an entrance fee of 5,000 CLP per person. Because of language barriers, we weren't sure if it was voluntary or because we couldn't show a ticket from the other entrance. Anyway, we paid and moved on. Hitchhiking to Rininahue went quite well once you are on the bigger Minor Road T-851.

• 2023-JAN-26 - 2023-JAN-29 / 4 days / hiking / SOBO / Riñinahue (option 2) - Volcán Puyehue (option 4B) - Licán / Anna & Christopher

From Panguipulli we took a bus at 8:40 am to Los Lagos (on a thursday). From there we took another bus to Paillaco at 11:30 am and got off at the cruce Reumén/Futrono. The connecting bus to Futrono passed there around 12:20 pm. From Futrono we took a bus to Llifén at 13:15 pm. From there we hitchhiked until the junction of Option 2 with the RR at km 37 approx. and arrived there around 17:00 pm. On the way up to Los Venados there is one accessible creek approx. 2,5 km before Los Venados. When we arrived there the gate following the RR was locked. As we didn't wanted to dry camp (we didn't fill up our bottles at the creek) we tried to get access to the river following variant D. It's definitely not possible to get water there, the forest is too dense and its getting too steep to climb down. So we went back and luckily after a while Hector and Neri arrived. They offered us to stay at their Refugio the night as it was already quite late.

The way up to the plateau is a good path. We collected some water from the northern "water?" waypoint around km 53,5. As Véronica mentioned there are only some shallow pools, but with clear water. On the plateau there are still some creeks from the snowmelt, but not that many so better carry some water. Around km 65 we saw in the valley on the left hand side a nicely flowing creek (off the RR) and decided to camp there. Its a detour of about 15-20min.

The next day we woke up to a clear blue sky and therefore decided to climb the volcano and to take the surrounding variant. On the ascent we didn't follow the GPS, which was a bad idea, as we ended up in a steep scree traverse/sketchy rock climbing. So it took us a lot of time to reach the ridge. Once there we enjoyed the amazing views! Walking around the crater got more and more tiring with all the ups and downs, but it's worth it! It was our favorite section so far. We collected some snowmelt water on the descent and camped at the Refugio (no water there).

The path down from the Refugio is in good conditions. From Licán we got a ride directly to Puerto Montt.

• 2023-Jan-05 / 4 days / hiking / SOBO / RR / Frank

I came from GPT18. Before Lago Maihue there are a couple of small shops & a restaurant. As you go around Lago Maihue on the road there are a lot of $ campsites, then the road climbs high above the lake before dropping to Rio Hueinahue. I forded the river easily & went down to Camping Rupimeca at the lake, about 1KM off route. Good cheap campsite, no electricity but they will charge your phone at the house. Next day I continued to Hector & Neri's house but they weren't around. I went in on the alternative route which goes right on a road just before Hector & Niri's place. It's marked private with two locked gates but there was no one there. Stream near the road but difficult to access - running in a gully & blocked by vegetation. After several attempts I was able to access the stream higher up & camped nearby. Just before the alternative route rejoins the RR from Hector & Niri's house there is a stream, if you drop down right a few hundred metres from RR onto the alternative route here you can get water. The water sources marked near the treeline were tiny stagnant pools & they are a bit off trail. However, in early January there was plenty of water above treeline from snowmelt. Did the spectacular traverse in one long day. The snowfields could be traversed or avoided fairly easily. Fill up with water before you descend to the hut. There was no water at the hut & on the trail out to the road the marked water sources were only tiny trickles. Carry a few litres of water up to the hut if you are NOBO. There was no one at the entrance & I hitched out to Entre Lagos.

• 6 to 8 of January 2023 / Véronica / GPT19 RR SOBO / via GPT19-02 / 2.5 days

Route: Riñinahue - Los Venados - Refugio El Caulle - summit of Volcán Puyehue - Anticura

I loved seeing the drastic change in landscape and ecosystems on this section, from the life-filled rainforest to the stark desert-like altiplano.

From Panguipulli, I took the first bus to Los Lagos, which left at 8:40 a.m. There was no bus from Los Lagos to Futrono, so I hitchhiked instead. Then from Futrono I took a bus to Llifen, then hitched the rest of the way to Riñinahue. I wanted to start this section from Riñinahue (Option 2) in order to shave off some of the road walking on the Regular Route. I was lucky and caught a ride all the way to the bridge at km 37.3 over Río Nilahue. Getting to the trail took most of the day. I began to hike south on the regular route around 5 p.m.

I met Neri and Hector, very kind people. At first Hector was apprehensive about letting me hike onward because I was alone. But after explaining how far I'd walked and showing him my GPS and SPOT device, he agreed to let me through the park. I wrote down my name and contact info in the book/registry he keeps with Neri. I dry camped about a kilometer beyond their house.

After Hector and Neri's place, the path stops being MR and becomes TR through the lush Valdivian rainforest. Trail is in good condition. There are a few blowdowns, but they are relatively easy to go around, climb over, or crawl under.

The "water ?" waypoint north of the trail before the treeline is just a few shallow pools of stagnant water. It was cold and clear though, so I collected 2 litres for the upcoming Puyehue plateau. I didn't investigate the other "water ?" to the south. I definetly didn't have to carry that much, because I soon discovered the plateau still has many snow patches, and so there are lots of little snowmelt trickles pretty regularly. This may no longer be the case in a few weeks though.

The altiplano is desolate and beautiful, very reminiscent of Section 6. I found there was a decent path and footprints to follow up until the junction at km 56.1. There are impressive azufreras there! Afterwards it's all cross-country. I had no navigation issues. I found the terrain got more physically demanding the closer I got to the volcano, and climbing in and out of steep-walled dry arroyos was tiring.

The "water ?" at 68.6 km was flowing nicely. The next "water ?" at 69.2 km was non-accessible, because the ravine where it is located is currently covered by a giant snowfield. You'd have to go down quite a bit to get to where the water trickles out. There will be water there a long time, I'd say.

The "pass" waypoint was confusing to me, because I saw nothing there that looked like a pass. It's just a long traverse on the mountainside. About a kilometer south of this "pass" though, a trail reappears and it lasts all the way to the refugio El Caulle.

The weather was looking a bit unsettled, cloudy and windy, and I didn't know if it would rain or not, so I did a long day and camped at the refugio (the volcanic flank is quite exposed). I collected lots of water at the waypoint at km 71.8, so I didn't check to see if the spring below the refugio was running or not.

Early the next morning, the weather looked good, so I left most of my gear at camp and climbed Puyehue following Option 4. There are cairns most of the way up, and other footsteps/tracks to follow. It gets a bit steep in some places, but nothing too crazy. Poles definitely helped and having a light backpack too. The 800-m climb is definitely worth it! Amazing to see the surrounding mountains and valley clouds in the early morning light. Like Quetrupillan, the crater of Puyehue is filled with snow and ice. The climb from the refugio to the summit took me 1h45 min, including a short water/breakfast break on the way up. Downhill was easier and less sketchy than I expected, and that took an hour.

From El Caulle down to the road is a clear path, sometimes steep, down through the forest. The two water sources there were pretty much dry, just a bit of stagnant and muddy water. It has been very dry this past month, almost no rain. I crossed the gates at Santiago's house at the end, I didn't see anyone and no one charged me entry for the park. I hitched easily to Entre Lagos and will be skipping down to GPT22.

Season 2021/22

Season 2020/21

• 2021-Dec-19 / Molly and Melissa / GPT21 Northbound - RR + ascent of summit:

4 days - skipping some of the gravel road along the lake

We went from Osorno to Puyehue, as the bus driver said that no buses went any further. From there we were quickly able to hitch a ride to Lican which is the start of the minor road. It's a couple of kilometres before Anticura. It would also be possible to walk, from Puyehue to Lican is about 10 km. We walked up to the restaurant and met a man who lives close by, he told us Santiago wasn't home, but he could take our payment. As others have written, Santiago wants to know the names and approximate schedule of everyone going towards the volcano. We slept at his camp site as well, it has flushing toilets and showers in a shed, it doesn't cost extra.

Volcán Puyehue:

In short: Snow is no longer a problem, but there is still enough to create little streams, so carrying 1-1,5 L of water each was fine for us. Beautiful but tough. Navigation is okay when using the GPS.

The first of the little streams marked as water on the GPS while climbing up through the forest was dry, the other was still running. We passed the refugio, which has quite a few bunk beds without mattresses. From there the path towards the volcano is quite clear through the grass, and is marked with frequent cairns further up so the navigation here is quite easy all the way to the top. We left our bags on the main route which was a good decision, it was very steep with very loose small volcanic rocks. The view from up there was amazing. When continuing past the volcano, there is a trail for about three kilometres more, but after that it's pure cross country. With the GPS it's not that hard to navigate, but clear weather is necessary and the terrain is tough, especially when passing between the lava fields. We found that the Locus Maps showed a different route than the GPS. We still found quite a few streams, especially when still near the volcano, if there's snow there's probably still some water. The snow is no problem for walking though. The first water? was pretty big and will probably last some time, but the second was really small, but there are several other streams as well. There's also more water in the afternoon when more snow has melted. All in all climbing from the camping, climbing the volcano and traversing the plateau took us two days of walking. It could be done in less, but would be tough. We got quite sunburned even though we used sunscreen, it's very exposed!

We had no trouble with finding the trail on the other side, it already starts being clear before reaching the forest. After that it's mostly just easy walking on gravel roads. When going northbound there is an alternative route around Hector and Neri's place that seems easier, we opted for the overgrown route to their house because we wanted to see if we could buy some bread, they didn't sell any though, but we had a nice chat with Hector as he let us through their locked gate. They later drove us about a kilometre when they passed us. The gravel road was a bit tedious and very hot, and hard to find good camping spots. The one marked on the GPS was behind a fence and some dense vegetation, but a little earlier it was possible to go through a gate to a little lake. We were told that there were many pumas and that we couldn't drink the water from the lake, we drank from a little stream going to the lake instead, and we didn't see any pumas.

Rio Hueinahue:

We were able to cross the river without problems, it went to mid- thigh height and we are both around 160 cm tall. The current wasn't too strong either. We have had quite a few warm, dry days before.

On the road along the lake we were passed by a bus going to Valdivia which we jumped on happily, so coming off the trail could not have been easier. It passed through Maihue and Futrono as well.

• 2021-Dec-03 / Alex Abramov / GPT19: Volcán Puyehue. Northbound.

The "Plateau" still has a LOT of snow.

Season 2019/20

• Feb 2020 / Matthieu / RR + ascent of the summit + OH to the Hot Springs, Northbound

Great section, amazing views, no technical difficulties with the trails and cross country.

- Fees : In this sense you have to pay the entry of the private property in Lican, at the camping/restaurant of the base of the volcano (10 000 CLP). The owner is called Santiago and is really nice, he gives you all the informations necessary for places to camp and water supply. I could take a photo of the touristic map too, which normally you have to pay for. Going southbound I don´t think that you have to pay something to enter the parc.

- Water supply : NO WATER at the first refuge down the volcano, you got to go a little bit further up and west. All the west flank of the volcano is full of little stream coming from the snow. On this part no difficulties. "Water 12?" wasnt working when I was though, but there was a last stream after before going west to the desert ( at the div 128).You have a good half day of walking without water, so take some supply with you. The water comes back just before the div 126, on a place which looks like a dry lake, with little streams coming down some frozen snow. There is another part without water, that begins a little after Div 126 until the refuge of Neri and Hector. I personnaly thought easy to find water in the forest and got really thirsty because of that. There was nobody in the refuge, so I could find water a few meters after the north gate of the house, following a little trail that went on the right side, directly in the forest and to the river. (A little bit of bush bashing at the end, next to the river). Further on the road down there was some other rivers and there and good camping sites. You join the real road at bridge 63 and no problems of water after.

- Optionnal roads : For the ascent of the volcano, I personnaly , on advice of Santiago, let my tent along the river "Water 145", souther from the waypoint. There are some flat places nice for the tent. From here you can go straight to the top, no technical difficulties.

For the Hot springs (nice experience, but the valley is full of tabaño at this season, so prefer arriving at the sunset to enjoy the water after !) : To go to the valley, I took a path that was on the touristic map but not on the GPT tracks. AFter the dry lake just before div 126 I followed the RR tracks up the hill, going east, and after I quitted the trqcks to go down directly to a little canyon, seeming to be a dry river. Really interessant path, and really easy, all flat in the canyon.It goes directly north and join the OH-TL-1901#001, making a triangle with the GPS tracks. There is a couple of hours walking after, in a nice green valley (plenty of water) until the hot springs. To enjoy the hot springs, I would recommend not to go (as I did) to the waypoint that will drive you in the closed canyon. The rocks in water are full of foam, and the feeling is really not good. I found a good place to camp and bath going back the next day, with traces of camping. About 300m before the waypoint hot springs, Just after the OH track makes a sort of right angle, the river take a shape of sharp angle and there is sand in the found of the river to sit and enjoy without slipping (GPS point of this site :S40°28.036' / W072°12.519'). To go back I followed the OH tracks until the RR, passing by the Geysers.

- Rivercrossing : one, the Rio Hueinahue. The GPS tracks are a good place to cross, going there the rocks before a rapid The river is very large thow, and the rocks slippery. When I passed I had maximum water a little bit above the knees. It is easier to see the good path in the river arriving southbound, because the road is up the river,but it is not so clear going northbound, If you are not confident with rivers, there are bridges up the road, not very far. Better not take useless risks.

- Ressupply locations : Nothing in Rupumeica. Little shops in Maqueo and Maihue. A lot of camping sites, free and payable, along the Lago Maihue.

• 2020-Feb-19 / Martina & Ivo / Regular route southbound (start: km 37, end: Anticura)

2.5 days. Actually we wanted to hike from Riñinahue, so we took a random Bus in Osorno (09:20) to Río Bueno, where there was a connecting Bus to Lago Ranco, where there was another connecting Bus to Riñinahue, and this one continued - to our astonishment - to the bridge over Río Nilahue, where the optional route meets the regular route. We found water in the forest at both waypoints "water?", but we went after a period of heavy rain. The "water?" before the pass is still flowing and there is a lot of snow left to keep it flowing. The section was unexpectedly physically demanding but extremely beautiful! In Anticura we found accommodation, but we didn't look for resupply, which is probably not so easy...

• 10-02-2020 / Ty/ RR SOBO/ 3 Days

I got lucky and got a ride all the way up to Los Venados. I went around Hectors house and camped up before tree line. There’s a bit of water still up there, just a few strong trickles though. I thought they would stay running for a while. Then for day 2 I went to the refuge, with a slight detour to the rim of the volcano. Definitely recommend. The “water?“ at RR-CC-A@19-68.0+3.7 seemed to have plenty in it at the time as well. At the rim a cloud came in and made navigation pretty tricky, but easily managed. Nice refuge with campsites outside. Spring still running. Tables and everything! Overall, an amazing section. From the end I hitched up to Antillanca optional Start for the next section.

• 16-01-2020 / Arnaud Debilly / Southbound 4 / full days

We ressuplied in Curiñe, with a minimatket there. To avoid the 15 first kilometers we took the bus from puerto Maihue to Rupumeica Bajo. We slept in the cabañas of Carmen Panguilef (+56 984 54 83 03) in rupumeica bajo who is very welcoming and a proud mapuche. Then the road ends and starts the path to cross the pass to rupumeica alto. Then you follow the minor road until los Venados. The road is blocked by barriers that we crossed easily. At los Venados the path is clearly private and is along the house of Hector. We met him and his wife and they easily let us go through. We overcarried water because we feared the lack of drinkable water. Until almost the treeline, you can hear little rivers not too far from the path. We also drunk melted snow at the top so we had enough. Later in the season, it might be drier (I assume, those little rivers come from the snow melting). The last real rio is just before los venados. After the forest, the volcanic terrain is very easy to walk in and the landscapes are wonderful. We saw many smokes from the volcanic activity but seemed not dangerous. Check the status of the volcano before to go (www.sernageomin.cl). Following the track, it is easy to go between the lava field. Campsites are absolutely great, with an amazing view on the vulcano. We felt an earthquake (5,2) that has been localized near san martin de los andes in Argentinia but it made nothing dangerous with the volcano, luckily. We have had a perfect blue sky without wind during the 2 days on top, it could not have been better. The refugio El Caulle, at the start of the downhill can be a good protection for a bad weather. We found a little spring, to resupply water in the dry rio just under the refugio. On the volcanic terrain, a bad weather changes everything and it must be really difficult and unpleasant to finish this section with rain, snow or wind and without the view. It was for us the most wonderful section we have had until today.

• January 2020 / The Puyehue Traverse - GPT19

Okay. This is my first conditions report. I walked the Puyehue Traverse with my parents over the last week. It is basically the last part of GPT19, starting on the rd to Héctor y Neri's (Los Venados)(phone beforehand to secure permission : +569 81868927). Let me know if I should structure it differently in the future.

Getting to the Los Venados from Osorno We caught the bus first to Rio Blanco, another to Largo Ranco. We then lucked out that the Riñinahue bus happened to be passing through! I think this is only once a day and goes all the way to the turn off to Cruce Pichico (3.8km from the turnoff to Los Venados). Again we were lucky and managed to hitch a ride (with two anthropologists!). A car past telling us they (Héctor and Neri) weren't home so we took the bypass - not sure if this is private or not? We made camp by some water for the night.

Up into the park There is more water available if you're willing to walk off the main track. Numerous times I heard water off to the sides. The first water close to the track was after you pass the national park sign where marked in the section pts. Then above the treeline there are better sources available from the snow melt (better and more numerous later in the day). From the geothermal site we side tripped into the valley for a day and came back along the ridge to the SW. The valley has a lot of streams and some great camp spots. You could even do a shortish 2hr detour to camp in the treeline here. We took some slight variations to the optional hiking route.

Passing the recent lava flow Rejoining the RR at a lake we followed the wall around camping a night part way along. (met four French ppl hiking the GPT here). There is snow, but no really good water sources until you get to the points marked at the base of Volcán Puyehue (first one here -40.59224, -72.13547).

Climbing the volcano In short. We didn't. We woke to rain and retreated to the refugio. We spent the day cleaning it. So much rubbish! Carried a load down but there is a lot more if anyone feels like it. It snowed overnight. There was snow down to the refugio at 1400m but only persisted to maybe 1600m. We couldn't see the top of the volcano and in the afternoon, with food running low, decided to bail. The hut has a dunny.

Getting back into Osorno After waiting three hours for a bus we ended up hitching a ride in una camión. He told us we would have been waiting a long time. Maybe one bus a day. Not really sure. But getting there early is a good idea. Coming down you could camp where the rd starts if you want to save money on lodging. We then caught a bus back into Osorno.

• 24-Jan-2020 Tom & Maddie

Regular route SOBO starting from 37km, 1 day and nero. Incredible section! We had no particular issues. It is possible to collect some water along the traverse after Hector and Neri’s property, however no reliable water sources are available until after the pass. There are some small streams flowing from the snow at the top so finding water is not impossible. We carried 3L per person and it was the right amount of water, including a side trip to the summit not on a track listed in the files. I would recommend doing the whole traverse in one day due to the limited water and the exposed nature of the area. Good weather is preferable, not just for the amazing views but also for safety reasons. The refuge at the other end of the pass is quite nice and a good place to spend the night.

Resupply and Accommodation in nearby Towns

• Recommend (Nov 2024 Mo) after finishing: Cabanas in Entre Lagos, really nice people, cabana and price: Janeth +56963133356

• Small supermarket in Curriñe opening times in April 2024:

Lunes a sabado: 9:00-13:30, 15:00-20:00 Domingos y festivos: 10:00-13:00, 17:00-20:00 Shop owner Antonio might be able to find accomodation with a lovely local family for 10k peso a night per person.

• Small supermarket and frutaria in Curriñe in between section 17 and 18. Has everything for a resupply. Haven't checked for gas.

• Nothing in Rupumeica. Little shops in Maqueo and Maihue. A lot of camping sites, free and payable, along the Lago Maihue.

• 2023 -round trip from south / Louis, Rémi & Noé :

Santiago has a restaurant, near the road and a refuge (waypoint refuge no water). You have to check in at the restaurant to pay the 15k CLP /pers. This price includes a night in the refuge (there is nobody in there), access to volcano and a night at the camping near the restaurant (with cold shower for free).

To Restaurant El Caulle on RR - 32km - +1300m/-2400m. The restaurant was closed when we arrived (a Monday at 7pm). Santiago selled us basic food (pasta, sauce, eggs (a bit expensive)) and he opened the doors of his barn for us to sleep dry. The only bus going down from here to Osorno leaves at 7:30am.

Resupply and Accommodation along the Route

• 2023 / Anna & Christopher

Stayed at Hector qnd Neri Refugio for the night.

• 2020 / Martina & Ivo

In Anticura we found accommodation, but we didn't look for resupply, which is probably not so easy...

• 2024 / Quentin Clavel

There's basic ressuply in Anticura, at "Tia Olivia" at Lican, point "Food, Lodging {19} [81.4/345]" but it's really in case of emergency. Olivia is a very kind woman and has in stock Bread, cheese, big bottle of coca cola, some juices and frost empanadas that she warmup.

I was in emergency so I resupply there, but just to keep in mind it's not a minimarket or so, just a tiny tiny resupply possibility. Olivia is a charm we discussed a lot, and she even took from her personal reserve pasta and biscuits that make the next section easier in term of food !

There's a possibility to eat at the restaurant if the lodge/cabanas/camping, KM0,00 of the section (Lodging $$$ {19} [83.4/364]). Nice food, good atmosphere.

End of the section is easy to find camping / small mini market and even restaurant/food truck (in between Maqueo and Puerto Maihue (if you go further in Curriñe, there's bigger minimarket, easier o resupply there).

• 2020 / Arnaud Debilly

We ressuplied in Curiñe, with a minimatket there. We slept in the cabañas of Carmen Panguilef (+56 984 54 83 03) in rupumeica bajo who is very welcoming and a proud mapuche.

WATER : NO WATER at the first refuge down the volcano, you got to go a little bit further up and west. "Water 12?" wasnt working when I was though, but there was a last stream after before going west to the desert ( at the div 128).You have a good half day of walking without water, so take some supply with you. The water comes back just before the div 126, on a place which looks like a dry lake, with little streams coming down some frozen snow. There is another part without water, that begins a little after Div 126 until the refuge of Neri and Hector. I personnaly thought easy to find water in the forest and got really thirsty because of that. There was nobody in the refuge, so I could find water a few meters after the north gate of the house, following a little trail that went on the right side, directly in the forest and to the river. (A little bit of bush bashing at the end, next to the river). Further on the road down there was some other rivers and there and good camping sites. You join the real road at bridge 63 and no problems of water after.

• 2024 / Matthias de Austria

Bus coming from Futrono to Rupumeica, stop in Curriñe, next to GPT01 end, at 14:15, 17:30, 18:45, 20:00. No buses in the forenoon! Don't know about buses on weekends. Direct bus to Valdivia, passing through Futrono, from Curriñe at 6:55 and 8:55. In the afternoon there's another bus to Futrono.

• 2023 / Martin & Helena

Bus to Osorno and Entre Lagos as well leaves early in the morning around 7 AM we think but rather ask.

• 2023 / Anna & Christopher

From Panguipulli we took a bus at 8:40 am to Los Lagos (on a thursday). From there we took another bus to Paillaco at 11:30 am and got off at the cruce Reumén/Futrono. The connecting bus to Futrono passed there around 12:20 pm. From Futrono we took a bus to Llifén at 13:15 pm. From there we hitchhiked until the junction of Option 2 with the RR at km 37 approx.

• 2021/ Molly and Melissa

We went from Osorno to Puyehue, as the bus driver said that no buses went any further. From there we were quickly able to hitch a ride to Lican which is the start of the minor road.

• 2020 / Arnaud Debilly

To avoid the 15 first kilometers we took the bus from puerto Maihue to Rupumeica Bajo.

• 2021 / Molly and Melissa

On the road along the lake we were passed by a bus going to Valdivia which we jumped on happily, so coming off the trail could not have been easier. It passed through Maihue and Futrono as well.

• You have to pay the entry of the private property in Lican, at the camping/restaurant of the base of the volcano (10 000 CLP). The owner is called Santiago.

Retired Section Article GPT19 - Volcán Puyehue