5
ediciones
Cambios
→Season 2024/25
==Season 2024/25==
==Season 2023/24==. *2024-abril-7 to 2024-ab-11 / 4 days / Hiking / NOBO / Option 5 - option 2 - RR / Juliet and Martin We combined this section with section 11.Day 1: Lonquimay - (-38.39301, -71.18538)We left Lonquimay on a Sunday morning, taking option 5G and then option 2b. We wanted to take the ferry, but it doesn't run on Sundays (but at the time we passed it, we thought it could be done on foot). We were picked up a few kilometers after Lonquimay and dropped off at Caracoles where there's a footbridge. We decided to explore and walk along the Rio Biobio to reach the ferry and option 2. There's a passage that connects the two points. We continued on to option 2. After crossing a bridge (in poor condition but holding), we looked for a place to pitch our tent, which we found along the river. Day 2: (-38.39301, -71.18538) - laguna marinanquiBeautiful forest and valley sections with incredible views. We reached the RR in the morning. Magical trail, lots of waterholes.No particular difficulty for us on this part.When we got to the lagoon, there were plenty of places to pitch our tents on either side, which was really nice. Day 3: Laguna marinanqui - camp {12} [17.0/1794]First part of the day with lots of fords to pass without difficulty. Another beautiful day. Lots of puestos on the way. We met Walter in a valley, he is very welcoming and kind. In the afternoon we hiked through the forest past the hot springs to reach our camp for the night. Quite a windy night, but we were relatively protected. Day 4: camp {12} [17.0/1794] - puesto de Valentin Morning ascent. The view is incredible but it's extremely windy. When we passed, there were many gusts of wind, which complicated our walk. But the view is still breathtaking! There's little water on this "plateau". We made our way back down to Ranquil. When we got there, there was nothing but the bus stop. We didn't meet anyone. *2024-Mar-20 to 2024-Mar-24 / 4 days ? / SOBO / RR/ Tobi + Fangwen Combined with Sections 10/11. Not much to add, except that there's almost everyday a low-ish hanging arucaria tree en route (late-season) Pinones tips:Try piñones with nutmeg + parmesan, or merken + cumin (with salt and a bit of oil of course)Cooking these take a lot of boiling - we brought a large gas canister and it lasted us eight nights (8 quick dinners, + 4 x 1.3 L pots full of piñones) with an occasional warm breakfast/tea.Expect to spend an hour peeling each pot (two people) after cooking for 20 minutes - it's a LOT of work.This was enough food for 2 people for approx. one full day 2024-03-14 to 2024-03-16 // 3 days // Hiking // NOBO // beginning of VAR A + VAR F + RR // Quentin Clavel Stunning section with great views and amazing rocks formation. The geology on this section really surprised me on some parts ! A lot of CC, and ups and downs threw pass, then going along valley then passing a new pass and cc a new valley etc.. RR at the beginning to the section is passing threw few fences. As other said, easy to avoid them. I met some nice people at the beginning, very friendly and we had nice talks, that was enjoyable ! Lagunas are great. At the end of Maximilian valley (that I unfortunately missed, but spoke with his employee, nice guy), I continue on the pass then took the variant H, but not sure it worth it, as there's no real track and I finished into a very steepy part It's losing rocks to reach the lower valley. So I guess RR is better. Not felt very welcoming by the pehuenche locals here (KM64,95), surprisingly because other hikers had great experienxes. They were not rude at all, but just don't really want to communicate. Anyway, no problem to pass and they confirm me the way to shortcut by the valley field. After the pass, you'll reach the lovely lagunas, with stunning views over volcanoes at the top of the pass. The way down will not be very fast as it's cc. Stay over tree/bush line, then plonge straight threw the Araucarias. The path will be more and more clear when you'll be at the balcon level, going all the way along the valley. There's a tiny wooden bridge that have been created and allow you to passe the Rio without having wet feets (Ford {12} [45.4/1039]). The bridge is a bit further the RR indicated ford, at the location 38°20′55.44″S 71°09′22.48″W. Then the path is very clear and easy to follow. I took the variant A to avoid the multiple ford crossing as it was freezing morning. I succeed and join RR with dry feets (but miss the Laguna marinanaui and the apparently very nice gorges). At that point, I was surprised by the attraction rate of this section (5/5). It was nice, but imho not deserve a 5. But I continued my way, go up to the pass, join the volcanic plateau and arrive to baños de pelehue). And this last stretch was absolutely amazing. I slept a pelehue, had a great hot bath, one has been created with rocks, it's a bit like on the bottom, but so nice after a hiking day !). Then I've been straight to GPT11, without going to Ranquil *2024-Mar-13 to 2024-Mar-16 / 3 days / SOBO / RR C 02A 02 (11-05G)/ Matthias de Austria Plenty of water, no snowfields, no Tabanos or Moskitos, all fordings very easy except Rio BioBio. The ferry on option 02 does not run on weekends, so I forded the river around 200m upstream. It is a long ford, but not very hard. Water around kneedeep (i am 187cm, 100kg) and 1-2m in the middle had a bit strong current, but not difficult. The ford is probably not possible earlier in the seasion, also they had a drought for months... Banos Coyucos at 20.4 are not really nice warm springs. It is dark, no view, mildly warm, (natural) dirty, not very deep and the cold river next to it has no pool. Variant C was no problem, bit swampy but doable. The way north of Laguna Marinanqui for maybe a km or so can be tricky to find, lots of tracks in this jungle. At Laguna Marinanqui the southern camp is better, even the meadows are full of shit everywhere, the sand is a bit cleaner, there is a fresh stream and the water not as shallow. It was really cold in the morning mid March, my towel and shoes hard frozen. Maybe better to camp a bit further away from the lake then I did (20m) end of seasion. Option 02A: closed gate with very muddy surrounding at -38.354982,-71.164045 shortly after intersection with 02b start. I think 02b is blocked by a fence. Anyway, just follow some path close to the river, it leads to -38.355085,-71.164881 where the fence can be climbed easily and afterwards return (might be a bit swampy) to 02A. route blocked by difficult fence at -38.396035,-71187372 but next to it is an easy to open gate, just follow the path afterwards, leads you to a dirt road and another easy to open gate, theres is some agricultural storage and behind paths connects to regular 02A. Option 02A: Camped where 03C ends, connection to 02. There is a small stream and access to the river north of it for some bathing. I hide my tent behind some bushes around 20m away from the road, which has veeery little traffic. Still late night I woke up from some voices and torches. I guess reflectors on my tent where reflecting the car lights even through the bushes. Anyway the people moved on after their curiosity was satisfied. Next day I met the settler on the road, interrogating me a bit, but quickly turned friendly and gave his ok. Generally it is easier to camp anywhere north of settler 02A Fundo Rahue, afterwards there are lots of fences, it gets dry and dusty. Option 02: 100 to 200m north of the ferry on the eastern side of Rio Biobio side seems a nice campspot. I combined GPT 9 to 12, but run out of food so I decided to shorten GDP 12 by hiking to Lonquimay after Laguna Marinanqui. I found plenty of Piniones, but had not enough fuel, and cooking them over open fire in my tiny cooking pot is annoying (did it twice). Northern parts of GPT12 are quite nice. Option 02 is long and boring with lots of road walking. Shortly west of the ferry it is a big asphalt street, but very little traffic. Took awhile to get a ride to Lonquimay. *2024-Mar 2nd to Mar 13th / 12 days / Hiking / SOBO / GPT11 Var F, RR, Var Q, Var P / Michael and Kasia TL:DR a really beautiful and varied section. The RR up to the plateau is challenging but not terrible; we liked Laguna Escondida for camping; the ridge at the end is not a good option if the winds are strong. Day 1 March 2nd The first two days were actually on GPT12 Var F which we used to connect into GPT12. In Lonquimay a guy working for CONAF as a driver taking firefighters to and from Troyo offered us a ride. What luck! He was very friendly and pointed things out during the drive. He left us at the crossroads of the road to Troyo and Ranquil and even gave us a bottle of water and a bottle of Gatorade. A big thanks to him! The road to Ranquil had many, many water points along the way. It's crazy how much water is in that area. It is a dirt road and dusty, but few cars came by, so it wasn't too bad. There is barbed wire fencing along much of the road. There were some helicopters running water in the distance to fight the fires. We arrived at Ranquil and found a place to camp at (-38.24902, -71.23244) just over the bridge. Then we went to the minimarket run by Maximiliano and Anna’s shop. They were incredibly kind people. They offered for us to camp on their property, offered to let us take a shower and wash clothes. They are definitely people to stop in and say hello to. They have gas now. 3.000 for refill canisters, 7.000 for 230g stove tanks and 9.000 for 460g stove tanks. They also had canned fish, powdered soups, mate, Nescafé, cold drinks, and Anna made us delicious pan amasado in her wood fired clay oven. Day 2 March 3rd We continued on GPT11 Var F. Tons of water on the way up. We watched a helicopter pull water out of a large pond and dump it on a small fire on the hillside. At km 26.17 saw a building from the road with the word provisiones painted in large letters on the back wall. We did not need anything else, and the gate was closed, so we did not check to see if it was open. We found out first piñones of the season! We collected probably a kilo of them. We passed through Pelehue which it turns out is nothing. We camped by the river about 200 m before the turn onto GPT12 Opt 01. I walked to the Carabineros to register us, it was quick and easy. We had just finished dinner when a family stopped by and offered to let us stay with them and asked if we needed anything. They were so kind and thoughtful, it was very touching. Day 3 March 4th We finally officially started GPT12. We collected more piñones. The Carabineros passed us on horseback, so it's probably good that I took the time to register even though the path doesn't pass right by them. It was sunny all day, pleasant walking, all fords were easy. We camped at (camp 12 [31.6/1306]). It was fairly flat with grass and river access about 30 m away. Day 4 March 5th A short day. We walked to Laguna Marinanqui.When we were there, it was possible to walk the distance between (camp 12 [31.6/1306]) and (ford 32.5/1296]) without following the track up and down the dusty trail. It requires a few additional fords, but with warm weather, being in the water is very pleasant. We camped at the north side of the lake. It was windy until the sun went down but calm after. Day 5 March 6thWe stayed at the lake for a rest day. Day 6 March 7thFrom the north side of the lake it was a bit tricky to find a path to connect to RR going around the lake as the ground was very muddy. Sticking closer to the big plant clumps helped. We collected more piñones at the south end of the lake. By this time we had probably 5 kg of them. Amazing views along the route that day, nothing especially difficult. There were some areas where the trail was damaged by landslides, but reroutes had already been created to get around them.We camped by the river right after the last ford at (-38.34864, -71.15528). There was a small path leading into the trees and to a small clearing. After a bit of site cleanup it made for a really nice and protected camp site. Day 7 March 8th It was a short day. We were confused as to whether Opt 3 of the current track files was the correct route up to the plateau or not. We tried finding it but had no luck so we decided to go with what showed up as RR on the GPS and Gaia. It started raining and was fairly windy. The ponchos I had bought us did not work well and we both got wet. We camped around the marked campsite at the end of Var E. Day 8 March 9th Back to a calm sunny day the next morning. It was cross-country for parts. The assent to the plateau was demanding. We could not find any true paths, though there were many things that appeared to be paths for short distances and would just end abruptly. I started referring to them as the mirages of the mountains.After reaching the plateau, the first laguna we arrived at was very pretty, deep blue water surrounded by green grass, and a few birds floating on the water. The area around was unfortunately too wet to camp on. We walked to the two larger ones but the area around was not pretty and the water was very shallow with a muddy bottom. We saw another heading back the direction of Option 3 and camped at the first one we came to (-38.36201, -71.07188). It was very cold, but fortunately there was no wind in the night. It was so silent there. Day 9 March 10th We took a long time getting to the two passes, taking a lot of photo stops. On the way down to the valley it was very windy and the ground was wet, so it was slow going until the forest. The forest areas were very beautiful sand pleasant to walk through. We camped in the valley just past the river at (-38.38830, -71.02145) in between several huge araucarias. It was very windy during the evening but that spot seemed fairly wind protected. It also had some visual screening from the road and the nearby puesto and river access without having to go to the road. Day 10 March 11th The valley was quiet and sunny in the morning. We headed up Var G. There was an unmarked puesto at (-38.38774, -71.01221). We were still fairly far off when four dogs started barking and slowly making their way out direction. We decided to go CC up the hill a bit and rejoin the path later which seemed to work at first. But after we rejoined the road we could hear them start barking again and they sounded like they were getting closer. We kept moving and eventually the barking stopped. The road diverged from the Var G track and we stayed with the road. Eventually there was a fork near a puesto. We went CC on a horse path that eventually connected to the road that I think came from the downhill fork. We followed the road and then did a bit of CC until we connected with the end bit of Var H to get to the pass. Where Var H and RR meet, we had lunch and coffee. The route down was fairly easy to follow. It was extremely windy until we reached the forest. It was a very pretty forest, I think beech mixed with araucaria. We met a woman and a child at the first puesto. We just said hello and asked if we could pass and she said of course. One of their dogs followed us for the rest of the day, but no matter what we did, it wouldn't leave. RR up to Laguna Escondida was a dirt road the whole way. It was in pretty good shape. We were surprised how many roads were in this area. There were nice views of the valley the whole way up. Laguna Escondida was also very pretty, especially in the later afternoon light. Water access is not so easy, but by breaking off the trail where it turned to the forest and heading straight for the lake, we found a small path to a beach. The water was clear. As it started getting dark, the dog finally left heading in the direction of the valley. We camped in the forest at (-38.47284, -70.97987). It was a ways away from water access, but the weather report was predicting 80 to 90 km per hour winds in the night, which turned out to be accurate. The trees overhead were blowing all night, but our tent hardly moved. We were very grateful for the wind protection. Day 11 March 12th There was a bit of route finding to get to the other side of Laguna Escondida. The view from the top was great. In the valley we started following a dirt road. We weren't paying too much attention to the GPS and ended up off the route. We then really misinterpreted the map and thought we could follow the road all the way up and then just cut across at the top of the hill, but we kept getting further away from the route. We ended up going with our plan anyway and it worked in the end, though it probably added some kms. But there was an interesting wetland area, some great views of the valley, and some interesting rocks, including one that looked like a Buddha head, so a worthwhile detour on the whole. There were house trails cutting across to the pass to Laguna Verde. There were dogs at the puesto on the NE side of the laguna that started barking when we could just barely see them so we stuck to RR. There were some nice views of the lake going around it, though it was easy to see why it's called Laguna Verde, there was plant growth from the edge growing several meters into the laguna all the way around. We camped close to a stream, around (-38.53009, -71.00810). It was not very wind protected, but the wind stopped after it got dark. Day 12 March 13th We hiked up to the plateau. There were some horse trails, but it is also partially CC. After the plateau, to stay on RR we found a spot on the downhill side of the barbed wire fence where we could climb up and over rocks instead of the fence itself. The white rock structures passing along that way were really impressive. We really wanted to walk the ridge, but there was a lot of wind that day. We made it up to the beginning of the ridge, but the further we went up, the more intense the winds became. The weather report predicted gusts up to 75 kph, so we decided to take Var Q down to Var P. It was worth the climb anyway as it provided a different view on the white rock mountain. Var Q was easy to follow down and Var P is a dirt road nearly the entire way to Liucura, not particularly scenic, but not badWe Arrived in Liucura around 19:00. We stayed at Normita, going rate 15.000 pp, private room, private bath, hot water, and a small kitchen area. Norma is very nice. There are a few shops in town. The big shop closes around 19:30. They have a decent selection and the best prices generally. Donde Carlitos minimarket near aduana had gas recharges for 2600 each. They also have a decent selection of things for resupply and are reasonably priced. Across the street from the big shop there is a woman that sells bread, look for the signs in the window. She is open till around 19:00. *2024-Feb-15 to 2024-Feb-18 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + OH11-02B + OH11-02 + OH12-C + OH12-N / Joscha I combined section 9 to 12. It took me 7.5 days in total. Day 1: RR [5.9-7.2] I directly continued from section 11 and just hiked up to the camp at km 7.2. There is a small wooden shed and right next to it one small flat spot (big enough for a 1-person tent) Day 2: RR [7.2-9.7] + OH11-02B + OH11-02B + RR [12.9-33.9] + OH12-C + RR [34.3-37.7] There is lots of water around the two hotsprings Pelehue, but it has a sulfur taste. I can absolutly recommended OH11-02B and OH11-02. You have to scramble up some steep, rocky slopes, but the 360 ° views up there are amazing. There is Water at km 0.6 of 02-B and water provided by big melting snowfield right next to RR at km 14.0. The Banos Coyucos Hotspring (km 20.5) are nice and big enough for at least 3 people. I had no problems with flies at Laguna Marinanqui. The Puesto at the camp at km 37.7 is broken down and there are a few flat spots next to it. There is water at all markers. Day 3: RR [37.7-69.4] No Water at the Water ? waypoint at km 54.4. But RR passes a Laguna at km 55.9. There is also water at km 62.4 and 66.8. And at all water and ford waypoints. Day 4: RR [69.4-88.0] + OH12-N + RR [91.5-102.2] + no official track to finish Water at km 87.7 is the last water SOBO. There is a barbed wire fence around km 102.2. There is no easy way to climb over it. Therefore I continued in south western direction until the Ruta 181. *2024-Feb-05 to 2024-Feb-10 / 5.5 days / Hiking / NOBO / Liucura - Section 11 on RR / RR / Alex & Christophe We really think this section is nice NOBO as it gets more and more interesting as you walk on it. We took the bus at 7:30 on a Monday in Temuco and arrived in Liucura around 13:00. After a Churrasco just next to the Border Control, we walked only until -38.443407, -71.000961 as it was really hot and the backpacks felts a bit too heavy. This place was a perfect camp with a nice stream of water and a flat and protected place to pitch a tent. So, if you arrive a bit late in Liucura, you don't have to cover nearly 20km to get water. We also camped at Camp {12} [35.5/1279] and it was really nice and the lake was beautiful and at the perfect temperature to swim. Another campspot we picked was Camp {12} [20.4/1625] (Banos Coyucos). It was really nice but after passing the Hot Spring {11-02B} [1.2/2113] (Banos de Pelehue, Poorly Maintained), we would had preferred to stay there. The view is incredible and there is some grass patches to pitch a tent. The hot springs need maybe 1 or 2 hours to be digged properly but it should totally worth it. Another thing to mention was that, because we didn't really know if we wanted to choose an option to connect section 11, we took option 4 until Pass {11-04} [5.4/2385]. The view there it just magnificent and there was some condors flying just over our head. I would really recommend taking this small detour, especially if going NOBO as the path is quite easy. (Maybe more demanding SOBO). *2024 Jan 22 to 2024 Jan 27 / 4,5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR+OH11-02B+OH11-02 / Hannes Start in Ranquil/Pelehue at Carabineros late afternoon, camped below ascent to the baños Pelehue. Reccomend the ascent in the early morning, as always much easier to climb before the heat comes in. Actually I figured out only fumaroles and no real baños up there, but I didn't look very carefully, wanted to head on. Took detour over OH11-02B and 02 along the ridge, which I reccomend strongly! Amazing views from this border-ridge and some interesting rock formations along there. Went down to the next valley and to baños Coyucos, loved this place, for me best termas so far. Even a nice camp place there. But it was still early afternoon, so I went on and camped at -38.203837 -71.077937. Next day I went to Laguna Marinanqui, nice lake, access to water muddy at north shore, south shore better to go in. Went on along this long next valley on a west slope trail, super hot! Camped at km 47,5, loved this place, flat area with special rock hill, mosquito zone, they take over when tábanos finish the day. Third day I went up the pass, super views all over from there! Down to the next valley, had to stick accurately to the GPS, as the TL is easy to loose where the bushes start and then you end up in some swampy zones, as it happens to me a few times. Lot of water around there. Crossed the valley, went up the other side. Passed puesto around km 64, no life there, no dogs. Seems abandoned this season, as I am not the first this year to pass by without seeing anybody. Walked on to the next pass, afternoon, again super hot, west-slope. Camped soon after the pass at -38.429390 -71.001130. 4th day I met Maximiliano in the early morning, little small talk, then I went on. Seems a nice guy. Went on to the two lagunas, wanted to do OH 12K, but looking to the access of the ridge I thought it can not be done, at least not with a heavy backpack...so I went on RR. Took water at km 87,6, no more running water till km 92. Nice views from the plateau to the southern volcanoes! Goats and horses up there. Camped at -38.578315 -W71.038569, around km 92, last water on RR till around Liucura! Next day over the ridge enjoying very much the views! Descending to Liucura on RR you have to cross around three to four barbed wire fences. Overall the most tábanos I ever had on a GPT section, but GPT12 still one of my favourite sections so far! *2024-01-13/22 / 7 + 3 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR (sections 12 & 11) / Coline I hiked GPT12 and 11 in a raw, so to reach the Pelehue hotsprings instead of going to Troyo for resupplying. This ten-days trail was really a great experience ! Sometimes terrifying, but not dangerous – as said in another post. My "goal" was to reach each hotspring marked on the map (4). My favourite was the one at the end (near Guallalí), because I meet a chilian family on vacacion there and they had dig the spring large enough for them six !The baños Coyucos "moved" : there are just below the Camp {12} [20.4/1625], where one's finds a bench, a table and a place for firecamps. The termas Pelehue definitly disappeared, but the view there is very scenic.The Hot Spring {11} [32.0/1428] are a bit dirty, sibce ciws like to lie in them, but one's can easily "clean" them a bit and enjoy a warm bath : I choosed the uppermost, and therefore warmer (Yes, there are two). The sections 11 & 12 were beautiful to me because of the passes... and difficult for the same reason. First Pass {12} [68.0+0.2/1909] was actually Ok, because the way (northbound) goes slowly up. The second Pass {12} [57.4/2180] was more difficult, due to the mud, and particularly on the way down for me, since I lost the trail and found myself stuck in a forest of small trees. The real DIFFICULTY for me was the last Pass {11} [27.6/2174]. After nine days, my body and mind were really tired. I forgot the advice of previous walkers and tried to go up through the forest (because of the sun exposure in the valley). I lost an hour and had to go down to the river. Moreover, the last 100m, with the snow and rocks, were doable, but the idea of sliding really scarred me. Something else scarred me at the beginning of my journey (and it shouln'd have...) : it was the attitud of some "caballeros" towards me, a solo female hiker. Most of the "caballeros" are nice and will help you, but some can be really insisting. (I had to yell at a man asking me for five minutes if I wanted a compagnon for the night... It was 3 a.m. and he had wake me up with his light and dog). But he was not threatening, "just" asking over and over. Actually Laguna Verde and Laguna Escondida (where I met those insisting men) are still nice memories to me ! By the way, I recommend the beach on the south side of Laguna Escondida ; the north one is skinny, inhabited by mosquitos and very "escondida" (hidden) in the bushes. What else ?I avoid the Pehuenche Extortioner taking CC road, and it went all good.There is a bridge some 120m west of the Ford {12} [45.4/1039],... whereas there is no more bridge at Bridge ? {11-C} [0.3/1109], but it seems very easier to cross the Estero Quillaylemu there, rather than on the RR.The river crossing is Ok, and there is plenty of water all along the way.As for the resupplying, I don't know about Troyo, but the only shop in Guallalí is very small (no bottle of gas or tobacco for sure). The woman who manages it is very nice though : she indicated me that a bus (with more food) would pass at 8 p.m, she invited me to charge my bateries at her place, let me have a nap, while she prepared me a delicious dish ! I had nice time with the younger kid, and even spend the night there at the end.
*2024-Jan-10 to 2024-Jan-11 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / {12-01} - RR - {12-C} - RR - {12-H} - RR - {12-N} - {12-P} / Lilian
=Transport to and from Route=
*Ferry Option 02: no service on weekends (March 2024), no timetable at the ferry port
*To Liucura
*Lonquimay
March 2024:
Lonquimay to Icalma Mo, We, Fr at 12:00 and 19:30. Bus company Erbuc, 3200 Peso. 2h ride.
Update 2022, Feb
Commentaries : really comfortable, nice and professional people, USB-plugs, I took it on Sunday night, it was the only one on Sunday, I don't know if there are some on the other days
=Permits, Entry Fees and Right-of-Way Issues=