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==Season 2024/25==
==Season 2023/24==November 23-27/4 days/hiking/NOBO/ Ana & William.
*2024-abril-7 to 2024-ab-11 / 4 days / Hiking / NOBO / Option 5 - option 2 - RR / Juliet and Martin
We combined this section with section 11.
Day 1: Lonquimay - (-38.39301, -71.18538)
We left Lonquimay on a Sunday morning, taking option 5G and then option 2b. We wanted to take the ferry, but it doesn't run on Sundays (but at the time we passed it, we thought it could be done on foot). We were picked up a few kilometers after Lonquimay and dropped off at Caracoles where there's a footbridge. We decided to explore and walk along the Rio Biobio to reach the ferry and option 2. There's a passage that connects the two points. We continued on to option 2. After crossing a bridge (in poor condition but holding), we looked for a place to pitch our tent, which we found along the river.
Day 2: (-38.39301, -71.18538) - laguna marinanqui
Beautiful forest and valley sections with incredible views. We reached the RR in the morning. Magical trail, lots of waterholes.
No particular difficulty for us on this part.
When we got to the lagoon, there were plenty of places to pitch our tents on either side, which was really nice.
Day 3: Laguna marinanqui - camp {12} [17.0/1794]
First part of the day with lots of fords to pass without difficulty. Another beautiful day. Lots of puestos on the way. We met Walter in a valley, he is very welcoming and kind.
In the afternoon we hiked through the forest past the hot springs to reach our camp for the night. Quite a windy night, but we were relatively protected.
Day 4: camp {12} [17.0/1794] - puesto de Valentin
Morning ascent. The view is incredible but it's extremely windy. When we passed, there were many gusts of wind, which complicated our walk. But the view is still breathtaking! There's little water on this "plateau". We made our way back down to Ranquil. When we got there, there was nothing but the bus stop. We didn't meet anyone.
*2024-Mar-20 to 2024-Mar-24 / 4 days ? / SOBO / RR/ Tobi + Fangwen
Combined with Sections 10/11. Not much to add, except that there's almost everyday a low-ish hanging arucaria tree en route (late-season)
Pinones tips:
Try piñones with nutmeg + parmesan, or merken + cumin (with salt and a bit of oil of course)
Cooking these take a lot of boiling - we brought a large gas canister and it lasted us eight nights (8 quick dinners, + 4 x 1.3 L pots full of piñones) with an occasional warm breakfast/tea.
Expect to spend an hour peeling each pot (two people) after cooking for 20 minutes - it's a LOT of work.
This was enough food for 2 people for approx. one full day
2024-03-14 to 2024-03-16 // 3 days // Hiking // NOBO // beginning of VAR A + VAR F + RR // Quentin Clavel
Stunning section with great views and amazing rocks formation. The geology on this section really surprised me on some parts ! A lot of CC, and ups and downs threw pass, then going along valley then passing a new pass and cc a new valley etc..
RR at the beginning to the section is passing threw few fences. As other said, easy to avoid them. I met some nice people at the beginning, very friendly and we had nice talks, that was enjoyable !
Lagunas are great. At the end of Maximilian valley (that I unfortunately missed, but spoke with his employee, nice guy), I continue on the pass then took the variant H, but not sure it worth it, as there's no real track and I finished into a very steepy part It's losing rocks to reach the lower valley. So I guess RR is better.
Not felt very welcoming by the pehuenche locals here (KM64,95), surprisingly because other hikers had great experienxes. They were not rude at all, but just don't really want to communicate. Anyway, no problem to pass and they confirm me the way to shortcut by the valley field.
After the pass, you'll reach the lovely lagunas, with stunning views over volcanoes at the top of the pass.
The way down will not be very fast as it's cc. Stay over tree/bush line, then plonge straight threw the Araucarias. The path will be more and more clear when you'll be at the balcon level, going all the way along the valley.
There's a tiny wooden bridge that have been created and allow you to passe the Rio without having wet feets (Ford {12} [45.4/1039]). The bridge is a bit further the RR indicated ford, at the location 38°20′55.44″S 71°09′22.48″W.
Then the path is very clear and easy to follow. I took the variant A to avoid the multiple ford crossing as it was freezing morning. I succeed and join RR with dry feets (but miss the Laguna marinanaui and the apparently very nice gorges).
At that point, I was surprised by the attraction rate of this section (5/5). It was nice, but imho not deserve a 5. But I continued my way, go up to the pass, join the volcanic plateau and arrive to baños de pelehue). And this last stretch was absolutely amazing. I slept a pelehue, had a great hot bath, one has been created with rocks, it's a bit like on the bottom, but so nice after a hiking day !).
Then I've been straight to GPT11, without going to Ranquil
*2024-Mar-13 to 2024-Mar-16 / 3 days / SOBO / RR C 02A 02 (11-05G)/ Matthias de Austria
Plenty of water, no snowfields, no Tabanos or Moskitos, all fordings very easy except Rio BioBio. The ferry on option 02 does not run on weekends, so I forded the river around 200m upstream. It is a long ford, but not very hard. Water around kneedeep (i am 187cm, 100kg) and 1-2m in the middle had a bit strong current, but not difficult. The ford is probably not possible earlier in the seasion, also they had a drought for months...
Banos Coyucos at 20.4 are not really nice warm springs. It is dark, no view, mildly warm, (natural) dirty, not very deep and the cold river next to it has no pool. Variant C was no problem, bit swampy but doable. The way north of Laguna Marinanqui for maybe a km or so can be tricky to find, lots of tracks in this jungle.
At Laguna Marinanqui the southern camp is better, even the meadows are full of shit everywhere, the sand is a bit cleaner, there is a fresh stream and the water not as shallow. It was really cold in the morning mid March, my towel and shoes hard frozen. Maybe better to camp a bit further away from the lake then I did (20m) end of seasion.
Option 02A: closed gate with very muddy surrounding at -38.354982,-71.164045 shortly after intersection with 02b start. I think 02b is blocked by a fence. Anyway, just follow some path close to the river, it leads to -38.355085,-71.164881 where the fence can be climbed easily and afterwards return (might be a bit swampy) to 02A.
route blocked by difficult fence at -38.396035,-71187372 but next to it is an easy to open gate, just follow the path afterwards, leads you to a dirt road and another easy to open gate, theres is some agricultural storage and behind paths connects to regular 02A.
Option 02A: Camped where 03C ends, connection to 02. There is a small stream and access to the river north of it for some bathing. I hide my tent behind some bushes around 20m away from the road, which has veeery little traffic. Still late night I woke up from some voices and torches. I guess reflectors on my tent where reflecting the car lights even through the bushes. Anyway the people moved on after their curiosity was satisfied. Next day I met the settler on the road, interrogating me a bit, but quickly turned friendly and gave his ok. Generally it is easier to camp anywhere north of settler 02A Fundo Rahue, afterwards there are lots of fences, it gets dry and dusty.
Option 02: 100 to 200m north of the ferry on the eastern side of Rio Biobio side seems a nice campspot.
I combined GPT 9 to 12, but run out of food so I decided to shorten GDP 12 by hiking to Lonquimay after Laguna Marinanqui. I found plenty of Piniones, but had not enough fuel, and cooking them over open fire in my tiny cooking pot is annoying (did it twice).
Northern parts of GPT12 are quite nice. Option 02 is long and boring with lots of road walking. Shortly west of the ferry it is a big asphalt street, but very little traffic. Took awhile to get a ride to Lonquimay.
*2024-Mar 2nd to Mar 13th / 12 days / Hiking / SOBO / GPT11 Var F, RR, Var Q, Var P / Michael and Kasia
TL:DR a really beautiful and varied section. The RR up to the plateau is challenging but not terrible; we liked Laguna Escondida for camping; the ridge at the end is not a good option if the winds are strong.
Day 1 March 2nd
The first two days were actually on GPT12 Var F which we used to connect into GPT12. In Lonquimay a guy working for CONAF as a driver taking firefighters to and from Troyo offered us a ride. What luck! He was very friendly and pointed things out during the drive. He left us at the crossroads of the road to Troyo and Ranquil and even gave us a bottle of water and a bottle of Gatorade. A big thanks to him!
The road to Ranquil had many, many water points along the way. It's crazy how much water is in that area. It is a dirt road and dusty, but few cars came by, so it wasn't too bad. There is barbed wire fencing along much of the road. There were some helicopters running water in the distance to fight the fires. We arrived at Ranquil and found a place to camp at (-38.24902, -71.23244) just over the bridge. Then we went to the minimarket run by Maximiliano and Anna’s shop. They were incredibly kind people. They offered for us to camp on their property, offered to let us take a shower and wash clothes. They are definitely people to stop in and say hello to. They have gas now. 3.000 for refill canisters, 7.000 for 230g stove tanks and 9.000 for 460g stove tanks. They also had canned fish, powdered soups, mate, Nescafé, cold drinks, and Anna made us delicious pan amasado in her wood fired clay oven.
Day 2 March 3rd
We continued on GPT11 Var F. Tons of water on the way up. We watched a helicopter pull water out of a large pond and dump it on a small fire on the hillside. At km 26.17 saw a building from the road with the word provisiones painted in large letters on the back wall. We did not need anything else, and the gate was closed, so we did not check to see if it was open.
We found out first piñones of the season! We collected probably a kilo of them. We passed through Pelehue which it turns out is nothing. We camped by the river about 200 m before the turn onto GPT12 Opt 01. I walked to the Carabineros to register us, it was quick and easy. We had just finished dinner when a family stopped by and offered to let us stay with them and asked if we needed anything. They were so kind and thoughtful, it was very touching.
Day 3 March 4th
We finally officially started GPT12. We collected more piñones. The Carabineros passed us on horseback, so it's probably good that I took the time to register even though the path doesn't pass right by them. It was sunny all day, pleasant walking, all fords were easy. We camped at (camp 12 [31.6/1306]). It was fairly flat with grass and river access about 30 m away.
Day 4 March 5th
A short day. We walked to Laguna Marinanqui.
When we were there, it was possible to walk the distance between (camp 12 [31.6/1306]) and (ford 32.5/1296]) without following the track up and down the dusty trail. It requires a few additional fords, but with warm weather, being in the water is very pleasant.
We camped at the north side of the lake. It was windy until the sun went down but calm after.
Day 5 March 6th
We stayed at the lake for a rest day.
Day 6 March 7th
From the north side of the lake it was a bit tricky to find a path to connect to RR going around the lake as the ground was very muddy. Sticking closer to the big plant clumps helped. We collected more piñones at the south end of the lake. By this time we had probably 5 kg of them. Amazing views along the route that day, nothing especially difficult. There were some areas where the trail was damaged by landslides, but reroutes had already been created to get around them.
We camped by the river right after the last ford at (-38.34864, -71.15528). There was a small path leading into the trees and to a small clearing. After a bit of site cleanup it made for a really nice and protected camp site.
Day 7 March 8th
It was a short day. We were confused as to whether Opt 3 of the current track files was the correct route up to the plateau or not. We tried finding it but had no luck so we decided to go with what showed up as RR on the GPS and Gaia. It started raining and was fairly windy. The ponchos I had bought us did not work well and we both got wet. We camped around the marked campsite at the end of Var E.
Day 8 March 9th
Back to a calm sunny day the next morning. It was cross-country for parts. The assent to the plateau was demanding. We could not find any true paths, though there were many things that appeared to be paths for short distances and would just end abruptly. I started referring to them as the mirages of the mountains.
After reaching the plateau, the first laguna we arrived at was very pretty, deep blue water surrounded by green grass, and a few birds floating on the water. The area around was unfortunately too wet to camp on. We walked to the two larger ones but the area around was not pretty and the water was very shallow with a muddy bottom. We saw another heading back the direction of Option 3 and camped at the first one we came to (-38.36201, -71.07188). It was very cold, but fortunately there was no wind in the night. It was so silent there.
Day 9 March 10th
We took a long time getting to the two passes, taking a lot of photo stops. On the way down to the valley it was very windy and the ground was wet, so it was slow going until the forest. The forest areas were very beautiful sand pleasant to walk through. We camped in the valley just past the river at (-38.38830, -71.02145) in between several huge araucarias. It was very windy during the evening but that spot seemed fairly wind protected. It also had some visual screening from the road and the nearby puesto and river access without having to go to the road.
Day 10 March 11th
The valley was quiet and sunny in the morning. We headed up Var G. There was an unmarked puesto at (-38.38774, -71.01221). We were still fairly far off when four dogs started barking and slowly making their way out direction. We decided to go CC up the hill a bit and rejoin the path later which seemed to work at first. But after we rejoined the road we could hear them start barking again and they sounded like they were getting closer. We kept moving and eventually the barking stopped.
The road diverged from the Var G track and we stayed with the road. Eventually there was a fork near a puesto. We went CC on a horse path that eventually connected to the road that I think came from the downhill fork. We followed the road and then did a bit of CC until we connected with the end bit of Var H to get to the pass. Where Var H and RR meet, we had lunch and coffee. The route down was fairly easy to follow. It was extremely windy until we reached the forest. It was a very pretty forest, I think beech mixed with araucaria.
We met a woman and a child at the first puesto. We just said hello and asked if we could pass and she said of course. One of their dogs followed us for the rest of the day, but no matter what we did, it wouldn't leave. RR up to Laguna Escondida was a dirt road the whole way. It was in pretty good shape. We were surprised how many roads were in this area. There were nice views of the valley the whole way up. Laguna Escondida was also very pretty, especially in the later afternoon light. Water access is not so easy, but by breaking off the trail where it turned to the forest and heading straight for the lake, we found a small path to a beach. The water was clear. As it started getting dark, the dog finally left heading in the direction of the valley.
We camped in the forest at (-38.47284, -70.97987). It was a ways away from water access, but the weather report was predicting 80 to 90 km per hour winds in the night, which turned out to be accurate. The trees overhead were blowing all night, but our tent hardly moved. We were very grateful for the wind protection.
Day 11 March 12th
There was a bit of route finding to get to the other side of Laguna Escondida. The view from the top was great. In the valley we started following a dirt road. We weren't paying too much attention to the GPS and ended up off the route. We then really misinterpreted the map and thought we could follow the road all the way up and then just cut across at the top of the hill, but we kept getting further away from the route. We ended up going with our plan anyway and it worked in the end, though it probably added some kms. But there was an interesting wetland area, some great views of the valley, and some interesting rocks, including one that looked like a Buddha head, so a worthwhile detour on the whole. There were house trails cutting across to the pass to Laguna Verde. There were dogs at the puesto on the NE side of the laguna that started barking when we could just barely see them so we stuck to RR. There were some nice views of the lake going around it, though it was easy to see why it's called Laguna Verde, there was plant growth from the edge growing several meters into the laguna all the way around.
We camped close to a stream, around (-38.53009, -71.00810). It was not very wind protected, but the wind stopped after it got dark.
Day 12 March 13th
We hiked up to the plateau. There were some horse trails, but it is also partially CC. After the plateau, to stay on RR we found a spot on the downhill side of the barbed wire fence where we could climb up and over rocks instead of the fence itself. The white rock structures passing along that way were really impressive. We really wanted to walk the ridge, but there was a lot of wind that day. We made it up to the beginning of the ridge, but the further we went up, the more intense the winds became. The weather report predicted gusts up to 75 kph, so we decided to take Var Q down to Var P. It was worth the climb anyway as it provided a different view on the white rock mountain. Var Q was easy to follow down and Var P is a dirt road nearly the entire way to Liucura, not particularly scenic, but not bad
We Arrived in Liucura around 19:00. We stayed at Normita, going rate 15.000 pp, private room, private bath, hot water, and a small kitchen area. Norma is very nice. There are a few shops in town. The big shop closes around 19:30. They have a decent selection and the best prices generally. Donde Carlitos minimarket near aduana had gas recharges for 2600 each. They also have a decent selection of things for resupply and are reasonably priced. Across the street from the big shop there is a woman that sells bread, look for the signs in the window. She is open till around 19:00.
*2024-Feb-15 to 2024-Feb-18 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + OH11-02B + OH11-02 + OH12-C + OH12-N / Joscha
I combined section 9 to 12. It took me 7.5 days in total.
Day 1: RR [5.9-7.2]
I directly continued from section 11 and just hiked up to the camp at km 7.2. There is a small wooden shed and right next to it one small flat spot (big enough for a 1-person tent)
Day 2: RR [7.2-9.7] + OH11-02B + OH11-02B + RR [12.9-33.9] + OH12-C + RR [34.3-37.7]
There is lots of water around the two hotsprings Pelehue, but it has a sulfur taste. I can absolutly recommended OH11-02B and OH11-02. You have to scramble up some steep, rocky slopes, but the 360 ° views up there are amazing. There is Water at km 0.6 of 02-B and water provided by big melting snowfield right next to RR at km 14.0. The Banos Coyucos Hotspring (km 20.5) are nice and big enough for at least 3 people. I had no problems with flies at Laguna Marinanqui. The Puesto at the camp at km 37.7 is broken down and there are a few flat spots next to it. There is water at all markers.
Day 3: RR [37.7-69.4]
No Water at the Water ? waypoint at km 54.4. But RR passes a Laguna at km 55.9. There is also water at km 62.4 and 66.8. And at all water and ford waypoints.
Day 4: RR [69.4-88.0] + OH12-N + RR [91.5-102.2] + no official track to finish
Water at km 87.7 is the last water SOBO. There is a barbed wire fence around km 102.2. There is no easy way to climb over it. Therefore I continued in south western direction until the Ruta 181.
*2024-Feb-05 to 2024-Feb-10 / 5.5 days / Hiking / NOBO / Liucura - Section 11 on RR / RR / Alex & Christophe
We really think this section is nice NOBO as it gets more and more interesting as you walk on it.
We took the bus at 7:30 on a Monday in Temuco and arrived in Liucura around 13:00.
After a Churrasco just next to the Border Control, we walked only until -38.443407, -71.000961 as it was really hot and the backpacks felts a bit too heavy. This place was a perfect camp with a nice stream of water and a flat and protected place to pitch a tent. So, if you arrive a bit late in Liucura, you don't have to cover nearly 20km to get water.
We also camped at Camp {12} [35.5/1279] and it was really nice and the lake was beautiful and at the perfect temperature to swim.
Another campspot we picked was Camp {12} [20.4/1625] (Banos Coyucos). It was really nice but after passing the Hot Spring {11-02B} [1.2/2113] (Banos de Pelehue, Poorly Maintained), we would had preferred to stay there. The view is incredible and there is some grass patches to pitch a tent. The hot springs need maybe 1 or 2 hours to be digged properly but it should totally worth it.
Another thing to mention was that, because we didn't really know if we wanted to choose an option to connect section 11, we took option 4 until Pass {11-04} [5.4/2385]. The view there it just magnificent and there was some condors flying just over our head. I would really recommend taking this small detour, especially if going NOBO as the path is quite easy. (Maybe more demanding SOBO).
*2024 Jan 22 to 2024 Jan 27 / 4,5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR+OH11-02B+OH11-02 / Hannes
Start in Ranquil/Pelehue at Carabineros late afternoon, camped below ascent to the baños Pelehue. Reccomend the ascent in the early morning, as always much easier to climb before the heat comes in. Actually I figured out only fumaroles and no real baños up there, but I didn't look very carefully, wanted to head on. Took detour over OH11-02B and 02 along the ridge, which I reccomend strongly! Amazing views from this border-ridge and some interesting rock formations along there. Went down to the next valley and to baños Coyucos, loved this place, for me best termas so far. Even a nice camp place there. But it was still early afternoon, so I went on and camped at -38.203837 -71.077937. Next day I went to Laguna Marinanqui, nice lake, access to water muddy at north shore, south shore better to go in. Went on along this long next valley on a west slope trail, super hot! Camped at km 47,5, loved this place, flat area with special rock hill, mosquito zone, they take over when tábanos finish the day. Third day I went up the pass, super views all over from there! Down to the next valley, had to stick accurately to the GPS, as the TL is easy to loose where the bushes start and then you end up in some swampy zones, as it happens to me a few times. Lot of water around there. Crossed the valley, went up the other side. Passed puesto around km 64, no life there, no dogs. Seems abandoned this season, as I am not the first this year to pass by without seeing anybody. Walked on to the next pass, afternoon, again super hot, west-slope. Camped soon after the pass at -38.429390 -71.001130. 4th day I met Maximiliano in the early morning, little small talk, then I went on. Seems a nice guy. Went on to the two lagunas, wanted to do OH 12K, but looking to the access of the ridge I thought it can not be done, at least not with a heavy backpack...so I went on RR. Took water at km 87,6, no more running water till km 92. Nice views from the plateau to the southern volcanoes! Goats and horses up there. Camped at -38.578315 -W71.038569, around km 92, last water on RR till around Liucura! Next day over the ridge enjoying very much the views! Descending to Liucura on RR you have to cross around three to four barbed wire fences.
Overall the most tábanos I ever had on a GPT section, but GPT12 still one of my favourite sections so far!
*2024-01-13/22 / 7 + 3 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR (sections 12 & 11) / Coline
I hiked GPT12 and 11 in a raw, so to reach the Pelehue hotsprings instead of going to Troyo for resupplying. This ten-days trail was really a great experience ! Sometimes terrifying, but not dangerous – as said in another post.
My "goal" was to reach each hotspring marked on the map (4). My favourite was the one at the end (near Guallalí), because I meet a chilian family on vacacion there and they had dig the spring large enough for them six !
The baños Coyucos "moved" : there are just below the Camp {12} [20.4/1625], where one's finds a bench, a table and a place for firecamps.
The termas Pelehue definitly disappeared, but the view there is very scenic.
The Hot Spring {11} [32.0/1428] are a bit dirty, sibce ciws like to lie in them, but one's can easily "clean" them a bit and enjoy a warm bath : I choosed the uppermost, and therefore warmer (Yes, there are two).
The sections 11 & 12 were beautiful to me because of the passes... and difficult for the same reason. First Pass {12} [68.0+0.2/1909] was actually Ok, because the way (northbound) goes slowly up.
The second Pass {12} [57.4/2180] was more difficult, due to the mud, and particularly on the way down for me, since I lost the trail and found myself stuck in a forest of small trees.
The real DIFFICULTY for me was the last Pass {11} [27.6/2174]. After nine days, my body and mind were really tired. I forgot the advice of previous walkers and tried to go up through the forest (because of the sun exposure in the valley). I lost an hour and had to go down to the river. Moreover, the last 100m, with the snow and rocks, were doable, but the idea of sliding really scarred me.
Something else scarred me at the beginning of my journey (and it shouln'd have...) : it was the attitud of some "caballeros" towards me, a solo female hiker. Most of the "caballeros" are nice and will help you, but some can be really insisting. (I had to yell at a man asking me for five minutes if I wanted a compagnon for the night... It was 3 a.m. and he had wake me up with his light and dog). But he was not threatening, "just" asking over and over.
Actually Laguna Verde and Laguna Escondida (where I met those insisting men) are still nice memories to me ! By the way, I recommend the beach on the south side of Laguna Escondida ; the north one is skinny, inhabited by mosquitos and very "escondida" (hidden) in the bushes.
What else ?
I avoid the Pehuenche Extortioner taking CC road, and it went all good.
There is a bridge some 120m west of the Ford {12} [45.4/1039],... whereas there is no more bridge at Bridge ? {11-C} [0.3/1109], but it seems very easier to cross the Estero Quillaylemu there, rather than on the RR.
The river crossing is Ok, and there is plenty of water all along the way.
As for the resupplying, I don't know about Troyo, but the only shop in Guallalí is very small (no bottle of gas or tobacco for sure). The woman who manages it is very nice though : she indicated me that a bus (with more food) would pass at 8 p.m, she invited me to charge my bateries at her place, let me have a nap, while she prepared me a delicious dish ! I had nice time with the younger kid, and even spend the night there at the end.
*2024-Jan-10 to 2024-Jan-11 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / {12-01} - RR - {12-C} - RR - {12-H} - RR - {12-N} - {12-P} / Lilian
I connected GPT11 and GPT12, so i start at {12-01}.
{12-01} from km0 to pass[4.6/1499] is dirt road walking.
Pass[4.6/1499] : huge flat area, look like is a car camping spot, i saw 5 fire ring here. Lot of spots for camping, some spots are beside trees, with weather protection. Road is damaged after the pass, no more cars running.
Km5.1 : welcome to a beautiful valley!
Ford[7.5/1403] : crossing of Rio Pulul, rock bar underwater, flowing slow and up to knee, easy. Later you will cross this river some more times.
Km8.1 : join RR.
Ford RR [31.4/1301] : start crossing Rio Pulul several times until [33.6/1285], all are easy crossing as now, the deepest is around knee only.
Camp[31.6/1306] : a beautiful spot.
Lake,camp[33.9/1281] : Laguna Marinanqui. I never saw so many fries in my life, OMG. The lake shore is muddy, I think the south shore is a better camping spot.
I take {12-C} here, because too many fries, after i take some photos beside the shore, i don't want to go back to find RR, i just want left this area.
{12-C} km0.1 : cross a warm stream, some logs for crossing, but they are all underwater, also muddy around it, maybe better after some weeks. Crossing is easy, step on logs then just above ankle.
{12-C} km0.2 : rejoin RR.
RR Km34.3 - km35.4 : trail beside the lake. Most of them are muddy, with hundreds of fries, OMG. I'm so disappointed i can't have some relax time here.
Camp[35.5/1279] : beautiful camping spot with 2 big trees. Less fries here, also is a dry area for camping. Estero Rucausey(a stream) is flowing nice with clear water just beside it.
Km35.75 : excellent view point of Laguna Marinanqui!
Water[41.4/1173] : upstream 40m, you can step over the stream.
Km41.1 : grassland can fit 1-3 tents, but a little steep.
Km43.4 - km43.65 : cross 3 small stream, all look like need a muddy crossing, but not. All of them, you can find a spot for step over, or a log help you for dry feet.
Km43.4 : after the crossing, flat spot with grassland can fit 2 tents under trees.
Km43.65 : before the crossing, large flat area can fit lot of tents, but no wind protection.
Km43.85 : junction of RR and {12-D}, also dirt road start to south.
Ford[45.4/1039] : before you go down the river for crossing, compass West 100m is a large, nice flat area beside some big trees, wind protection provided by some brushes. River is up to knee but flowing slow at early morning.
Easy walking until km51.3.
Km47 : look at left side, a beautiful hilltop with rock column!
Km48.25 : pass, a steep side trail at left side(north) leads you to viewpoint. Steep for climbing up, be careful. After enjoying the view, don't go down with the same trail, go to the east ridge for go down, then CC back to trail, it is gentle, easier and safer. Before you left, look up the top of huge rock, there is a branch pressed by stone. Maybe some crazy people bouldering to the top?
Km51.3 : junction of RR and {12-E}, RR after here just like CC, very overgrown, most of the time long grass coverd the trail, i just can use my feet to feel is it a trail i step on. Sometimes you'll step on some old cow path, then follow it walking to some wrong direction, be careful, check GPS more frequently.
Km52.8 : junction of trail and CC climbing up. From here to km53.7 is steep climbing up on loose sand on RR or the trail shown on OSM. You need to find some grass foot spot and step on, tired and take long time. After i climb up a while, i cut to south side and join the spur, it is much easier and faster because lot of trees surrounding this spur. Hard leaves and sticks on the ground, also the soil is stable. I just need to step by step climb up on the stable ground, no need to find where is my next step, is it too loose or too steep to walk on.
I also find a clear path at (-38.34710, -71.07574), look like climbing up on "zig zag", but i lost it after about 20-30m.
Km53.7 : tree line end. Climbing up on some rocks, much easier now.
Water? [54.4/1930] : flowing low with warm water, maybe dry up later. Lot of tadpole and frogs swimming in it.
Km55 : going in the plateau. Very beautiful area, blue lakes, green meadows, curved streams, small snow patches and some big birds, just like a aquarelle hanging on the wall.
(-38.35842, -71.06810) : excellent view point, 360° beautiful views on a tiny rock hill! Climb up just 2 min!
Km55.5 : look like it is possible to find a flat spot for camping beside the lake at east shore, beautiful but no wind protection.
Km56.3 - km56.65 : flowing good with clear water by snow melt, when you climbing up this stream, don't forget to turn back take a look, beautiful plateau is behind you, also VIEWS of (from left to right) Volcán Llaima, Sierra Nevada, Volcán Lonquimay and Volcán Tolhuaca!
Pass[57.2/2177] - pass[57.4/2180] : after you climb up to the pass, go down a little to east at 2160m is better, you can walk on a flat ground going south, much easier. Also when it is close to the second pass, a clear path and some rock cairns shown up.
Pass[57.4/2180] : no snow at north side, just a little snow remain at south side as now. You can go around it on left side (east), or take 20sec to 1 min go down the snow patch directly. Easy.
Km57.7 - km58.5 : walk your own way going down, sometimes you'll find some cairns and a clear path about 10m, then disappear.
Km58.75 - km58.85 : steep snow slope, DON'T slide down at here, big hard rocks at bottom waiting for you. You can kick step going down but steep, or like me, go around at left side(NE), then go down a steep rocky slope.
Km58.85 : wet, muddy, slippery trail starts, until km59.5 going under tree line. I think it is a pretty place in dry season.
Km59.6 : blowdowns maze starts, tons of blowdowns cut the way, then lot of cow paths and dry riverbeds mix together. Sometimes the trail shown up and disappear for blowdowns. Need pay more attention here. Until km59.9, the trail becomes easy to follow.
Road end[60.4/1745] : Dirt road start. Junction of another old dirt road on right side(west) after here 100m, it looks flat and no cars running on it, you can camp if need, also this old dirt road leads you to a small stream after 100m.
Km61.5 : junction of RR and {12-F}, before this junction 20m, there is a clear trail going down, i followed it, and it is easy walk to Puesto[61.8/1550].
Puesto[62.9/1523] : no people no dogs here.
Then i joined {12-H} for climbing up.
{12-H} km2.6 : i would like to said, here is covered by some heavy brushes already, just like BB and CC mixture. I saw the ground have some horse prints, looks like have a better reroute, but I don't know the way and it is difficult to follow so i lost it, lastly BB CC to Puesto[3.1/1822].
After puesto[3.1/1822], trail conditions become better, easy to follow and walk.
Pass RR[68.0+0.2/1909] : still a tiny snow patch beside the pass, but nothing at pass. A beautiful area.
Km70.7 : Dirt road start, until Laguna Escondida(RR km76.4).
Ford[73.6/1517] : if you follow RR, no need follow cross this one, turn left and cross the small one.
Lake,camp[76.2/1750] : covered by many trees, but no views.
Km76.4 : dirt road end, if this grassland is dry, it'll be a very beautiful camping spot with excellent lake view.
Km80.7 : junction of RR and {12-K}, beautiful views here! The valley towards Laguna Verde is so nice. Flat area here, wild views but no wind protection.
Remark, {12-K} is an impossible route, the mountain top at (-38.50732,-70.98472) is some vertical rock column, i think about 40-80m, can't climb up to walk, also can't go around, mostly is 70-80° vertical wall.
Water[81.9/1889] : flowing good with a flat spot can fit 1 tent.
Camp[83.0/1767] : wet, also a puesto at (-38.51828, -70.98893). When I fill some water at stream, 2 dogs running out and barking at me, they follow/chase me until km83.3, I'm not sure they are curious, or aggressive.
Some puesto at west shore of lake. So i camped on a little hill at (-38.52293, -70.99734). Good location for privacy and views but no wind protection, also not easy to find a spot because of rocky ground.
Km86.8 : dirt road start.
Because it is a crazy windy day, so i decided stay in valley by {12-N}+{12-P}, not climb up to plateau by RR.
Dirt road walking 2km {12-N} then join {12-P}. {12-P} leads you all the way to Liucura. First 400m of {12-P} is dirt road, leads you to puesto[0.4/1526], then the road damaged becomes a trail, until puesto[1.9/1415].
Water {12-P} [1.7/1400] : last good water until Liucura.
Puesto[1.9/1415] : dirt road start again. Road go through a beautiful valley. You can look at other side of valley, some landslide trail there.
Km5.0 : Left side, Volcán Batea Mahuida!
Km10 : a beautiful meadow, horse trail start.
Water[11.7/1289] : look clear, but I'm not sure is it flowing from cows and horse meadow.
Puesto[12.1/1239] : dirt road start again, til Liucura.
Shop[104.1/1036] : chocolate, biscuits, chips, drinks and ice cream, not much for resupply, but they make hot sandwiches and breakfast, yummy yummy!!!! They also do "printing", if you need some documents in paper.
Also 1 restaurant, 1 cafe and 4 shops nearby, i think you can have a full resupply here.
2023 12-27 to 2024 1-03 / 7 short days and one hour/ hiking / mainly RR / Sobo / Edwin
Took the easy option from Ranquil to baños de Coyuco by Oh-12-01. The baños are really nice. After that the regular route until Laguna Verde after which a suspect knee made me stick to trails and minor roads. An enjoyable trek! Some snow at higher altitudes.
The river crossings before Laguna Marinanqui were not too difficult except for the second one, which whas up to my crotch (I'm 1.90 meters) and fast flowing.
Plenty of water around. Only took more than half a litre once when crossing the plateau and that wasn't needed. Days were generally hot.
Met few people in the puestos but the ones I met were all friendly.
If you want to skip section 13... The bus to Icalma passes through Liucura around 12:30 - 13:00 Monday/Wednesday/Friday
2023 17 - 20 dec / 4 days / hiking / option 12-04, H, RR / SOBO / Frans
Started on a Sunday and it wasn't clear to me if the ferry (12-02G) would be up and running. No one in Lonquimay could guarantee me this. Because of Sunday and also because this day Chileans had to vote for the constitution. So I decided to walk the 181 and join the GPT12 on 12-04End. Nice walk, plenty of traffic to hitchhike, although I decided to walk. The minimarket at camping Lolén (100m before 12-04End) was closed, Sunday or voting? Was there around 11am. It looked up and running and not abonded or something. Just a closed sign. First house after the bridge sold eggs and honey, I bought some honey from Luis, super friendly guy. The walk was nice after that, although the road was fenced on both sides until km 16-ish. No campsites or minimarkets. I ended up campung at 12-03End, pretty long stretch so next time I would definitely hitchhike the 181.
Climb to the pass was steep, pass was easy, no issues with snow. Beautiful views on both sides. Going down on some patches of snow you could see and/or hear the water flowing below. Might become tricky in the next days to walk over so a little caution is recommended. Met Maxi and his father down below at his puesto. Super friendly! Continued my way to camp at laguna Escondida (North side).
Next day a bit iffy weather (as expected) cloudy, windy and a bit of rain. Decided to do a short one and camped at laguna Verde. Really good camping spots on the option 12L, at the end of the lake. And I could cross here the next day to join RR, there where some planks over the small stream.
This last day I really enjoyed! Walking the plateau and the ridgeline was amazing. Perfect weather also. For sure worth it, easy to follow trail and all the CC options are 90% horse trails which are good to spot.
Coming close to Liucura, it didn't feel good to me to climb those fences. Guess that's just a personal thing. There was a lot of cattle, fences looked new, so I decided to not climb over them and annoy the locals. Just followed the trail down to end up at the main road, take a left to Liucara. Maybe 1km extra in total.
Stayed at Normita, couple of shops to resupply all the basics.
All combined, really nice section especially the final part. Water not a problem, until you go up the plateau and ridge.
2023-Nov-28 to 2023-Dec -02 / 5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR + variant P + variant Q + variant H + option 1 / Jens (together with Nolwenn and Yannick)
To get to Liucura, take a bus from the Rural Terminal in Temuco to Lonquimay (departure 10 am) and from there another bus (3 pm).
It is better to do your shopping in Liucura beforehand, the market and supermarkets are right next to the terminal. There are also some smaller supermarkets in Lonquimay. You are sure to get everything you need there.
Crossing the pass at KM 57 was very strenuous and steep. There was still snow, which you could either hike around or through. The descent on the other side was very steep. It took two hours. You can camp well on both sides, even at the top if necessary, but it is very windy.
From kilometre 26 north of the Marinanqui lagoon, we had to cross the river several times. We had some difficulties. The water was up to our hips. We couldn't have coped with any more water. The lake is beautiful, I would rather camp at the southern end as it is rather muddy and full of mosquitoes in the north. We fled from them.
It had snowed overnight and so we decided not to make the crossing over the pass on RR, but to take the alternative route to the start of Section 11.
2023-Nov-28 to 2023-Dec -02 / 5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR + variant P + variant Q + variant H + option 1 / Yannick & Nolwenn
- Water : all markers are good and even more water present
- Snow : (1) snow on pass at km 68 ( easy to walk on it ) / (2) from km 58,4 to km 54,9 : at this point we didn't follow the RR and went on the right side to reach the ridgeline and then continue on it - the plateau still had a lot of snow but we found it was not a problem to find our own safe way / (3) we didn't do the last pass between km 15,8 and km 9,5 because it has snowed in the night and the mountain was still covered by a thick layer of snow
- Camping spot : easy to find
- River crossing : (1) at 45,5 km we crossed in the morning and the current was strong but we are used to river crossings so this one was easily passable for us / (2) Laguna Marinanqui between km 35,4 and km 33,9 : was higher than usual and therefore the trail was under water, we walked in the lake from time to time and it was sometimes up until our thighs / (3) the river between km 33,9 and km 31,3 is really high and need multiple crossings that sometimes goes up until the waist with a strong current, we had to improvise and do some bushbahing to find places where it was crossable
- Weather : Sunny, snowy, cloudy, ( overall really good weather but can be cold )
- Option roads : variant P + Q : easy track, it's a dirt road, there is water on the track / variant H : to avoid the dogs / option 1 : to avoid the snow on the pass, the trail is easy and beautiful
- Warning : river crossings between km 33,8 and km 31,3 was really hard but manageable if you have skills and not too small
- Overall : beautiful section, still a lot of snow from 1700m
* 2023-Nov-23 to 2023-Nov-27 / 4 days / hiking / NOBO / Regular Route and Option 3 to return to Lonquimay / Ana & William
We just finished part of 12 and overall it is a lovely hike though we might potentially be a bit too early in the season depending on your risk threshold.
Heading NOBO the small pass after laguna verde is fine. Little snow but not bad. Next pass is a bit tough, lots of snow walking and lots of risky parts where there are hidden rivers/water ways under the snow and where cliffs of snow had broken off but we managed by being careful and taking time to judge. RR-CC-A {12} [68.1/68.5+2.9] is not passable we went on the route to the left of it. Scary but fine, you have to make your own route since it’s completely snowed over. Downhill is fine, snow is only on the south face of the mountain. Next day we skipped the pass and did a plateau crossing based on advice from a local, it was lovely, the trail is east to follow most of the way then getting across the plateau you can take any possible direction, no wrong way and it connects to the 12-03c. Coming down on though there are two tracks at 12-03c marker. OH-TL-I {12-03A} [0.9+3.4] is not a route. At least not now. It’s basically a river gorge and it’s not possible unless you can surf down waterfalls, so we scaled up almost completely vertical to meet the CC route that runs parallel. Might be possible when there is less snow melt though. The CC route we took was almost a completely verticals decent for 800 meters and I must say a bit terrifying. Clambering down on your butt/downhill rock climbing is not the hard part but if you are not careful and you don’t judge your path every few meters you can find yourself looking down a minimum 30-200 meter drop, so it’s mentally scary not knowing if you will get to the bottom. But we did. I would not advise it, instead I’d advise continuing on 12-03 past the lakes back to the normal route. Took us almost 3 hours of being very careful though. We then got to the first river. Many locals we met before told us the only way to ranquil is the balsa, but we didn’t fully understand what they meant till we got to the river. They meant Bulsa Rahue which is on the way to lonquimay. The first main crossing at Ford {12} [45.4/1039] is very deep and very fast. For us as beginners a big no go, but I honestly think for advanced that would be tough as well if not only very dangerous. We then moved back to lonquimay where for the first part of the trail the river had flowed over so much that there was no trail but then eventually the trail gains significant elevation over the river and it’s fine. We asked others we ran into on the way and they confirmed that it’s too early to pass the rivers, but again depends on the hiker I’m sure.
Comment Jan Dudeck December 2023: The best route to ascent from the Plateau is the trail in the South-West of the Plateau. That's the trail on which the horses are probably moved up and down. Starting with the Track Files 2024 the normal route up and down the Plateau will be OH-TL-V {12-03} [0.0+14.4]. I have cleaned up the routes on the North-Western edge of the Plateau. These exploration routes are best taken up and not down. Starting with the Track Files 2024 these exploration options are {12-03A}, {12-03B} and {12-03C} and all classified as Exploration Routes. There pieces of trails visible on satellite images but these trail disappear into a forest and it is unclear who maintained these routes are and if these are part of an alternative access to the Plateau.
==Season 2022/23==
=Resupply and Accommodation=
2023- 2023-Dec / Yannick & Nolwenn
Accomodation : in Troyo there are some cabanas, just ask in the little shops
- Resupply : big supermarket in Lonquemay / at the end of section 12, 30km down the road there is a village ' Troyo' where there a few small shops where you can find resupply
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Ranquil - no shop but there are families who sold us sopaipillas
==Resupply and Accommodation along the Route==
=Transport to and from Route=
*Ferry Option 02: no service on weekends (March 2024), no timetable at the ferry port
*To Liucura
*Lonquimay
March 2024:
Lonquimay to Icalma Mo, We, Fr at 12:00 and 19:30. Bus company Erbuc, 3200 Peso. 2h ride.
Update 2022, Feb
Commentaries : really comfortable, nice and professional people, USB-plugs, I took it on Sunday night, it was the only one on Sunday, I don't know if there are some on the other days
=Permits, Entry Fees and Right-of-Way Issues=