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→Season 2023/24
==Season 2023/24==
*2024-Feb-29 to Mar-03/ 4 days/ 104 km/ Alex + Andrey
GPT03 (Rios Claros) Exploration:
Option 3 (Rio Claro Alto and Paso Coligues) SOBO
Option 7 (Baule Valley) EABO (new, but no, Tomas did it in 2022)
Option 1 (RN Rio Los Cipreses) NOBO
Very difficult.
Base weight 2.9 kg
Brief summary:
This exploration unexpectedly turned into the discovery of one of the most beautiful mountain valleys I have ever seen in Chile.
In my opinion, the combination of options 3, 7 and 1 is a very difficult, but very attractive alternative to the northern part of the regular route for section 03.
The difficulties on options 7 and 1 are not exceptional, but their density and variety in such a short section pose a serious challenge even for experienced hikers:
Steep scree and rocky slopes and traverses.
One very difficult ford
Passing narrow gorges with an active river
Bushwhacking
Even swamps (!)
Details, tips:
The first part of the route (Option 3) until Pass3 (Pass ? {03-03} [23.6+0.2/2634]) is pretty easy.
The trail between Pass3 and Pass4 is not always in place, but CC here does not present significant difficulties.
The main obstacle for us was the navigation challenge for Baule Valley after Pass4.
This valley consists of several beautiful amphitheaters separated by a series of vertical rock belts with numerous waterfalls.
Although we found the remains of an old horse trail in the valley, the lack of any signs of its use in recent years raises questions about its relevance.
Also, the upper amphitheater (from the Pass4 to the first rock belt) turned out to be (at the end of February!) under snow, which complicated the search for the remains of the old trail and we were forced to create our own foot path. After some exploration we managed to find a northern passage (a steep but simple green gully) in the upper rock belt towards a small intermediate valley with a lake to the north, from where the path winds through three more rock belts to the middle valley, a very spectacular point.
We walked around the lower rocky belt along the very steep scree southern slope. The path below on OSM maps is represented as a trail, which it is not. This is a very demanding 100% CC on the bottom of a canyon with an active river. In my opinion, in this place it is worth trying to find a bypass of the canyon 100-150m higher along the right (southern) bank of the river.
Attention! The following is information about Option 1 RN Rio Los Cipreses actual as of the end of February 2024:
The southern part of the Reserva nacional Río de Los Cipreses (the Río de Los Cipreses canyon itself) for visiting requires authorization from CONAF, which is extremely doubtful to obtain, so passing SOBO through the valley may be a violation of the rules, but at the moment there is no registration for exiting from the park.
Ford 9 (Ford {03-01} [39.1/1468] ) is very difficult even in late February and can be impossible early-to-mid season.
The valley above this ford apparently has not been visited for a long time and is significantly overgrown
More photos and trek are here:
https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/rios-claros-valle-baule-rio-los-cipreses-chile-163289798
* 2024-Jan-26 to 2024-Jan-31 / 5.5 days / SOBO / 02A - 02 - RR - D - RR / Matthias de Austria
Option 02: Large gate with various prohibition signs at -34.2746,-70.5931 on the H-35 road, so I take 02A, a good choice, a nice, easy path along a canal with clear water, in the shade in the morning. Apparently a favourite hiking route for the locals, with numerous fire pits, some of them quite dirty.
Parts of the path before the pass 03 36.5 are overgrown until you reach higher altitude. You are very often in close physical contact with the local flora. I saw a snake there, a culebra de cola. Thought about it later while bushbashing - how many of them are right now close to me? A short section of the path is impassable with dense thorns (at -34.4261,-70.5885), but you can get out of the way with some light bushbashing and boulder climbing over the river, maybe 200 metres. Good training for the serious bushbashing after the pass. There stay close to the gps track, trying to go back to the track, even just 50m through the bushes, can be very hard as I learned by trying.
Water: Plenty in the beginning, unmarked at -34.3191,-70.5698, possible camp shortly after.
Water and locked gate at -34.3406, -70.5565, climb over gate
Water at -34.3651, -70.5603
Locked gate shortly before 25.3/1096, climb over
Plenty of little streams afterwards almost until the pass. Fill up before you reach it, no water afterwards for some time and bushbashing might take longer than planned and can be exhausting. Fill up water at the stream (also nice pool) at Settler 03 49.7 (there was a closed gate but you can bypass it on the little riverbed next to it, where also the pool is), long exhausting hike up to the pass 03 55.9 follows, with only one stream quite far up. Nice spring at -34.5670,-70.7224, 2 or 3km before 05 starts at the final pass.
Fording: no problems, all water levels low. Except Rio Claro, wild river, lots of water with strong stream. I camped nearby, but next morning it was only a bit less water, scary. I took the detour to the bridge (water waves over bridge, but crossing no problem) at -34.4820,-70.7278
Camps: Day 1: with water -34.4001,-70.5742, Day 2: with water -34.4823,-70.6143 Day 3: with water -34.5094,-70.6531 sandy next to big boulder, Day 4: shortly after pass 55.9, very, very little water, no good camp, Day 5: camped next to an old fall down tree over the river at 71.5/957 with pool but very cold water
Big locked gate at 76.7, some dogs barking, I wait a bit until a friendly lady shows up. Dogs now calm. We chat a bit and I continue, climb over the stonewall a few meters right to the gate.
Car picks me up shortly after and drives me to La Higuera in Agua Buena. Very friendly, can take a shower, do laundry, wifi, vegetarian dinner+little desert, 4 beers, breakfast, got a matress in the still unfinished rooms (no electricity, windows, doors nor bathroom). But he gave me a lamp and a power cable for charging. Unfortunately it was extremely noisy at night due to barking dogs and several roosters. Total cost 55k pesos. I also got some free fruit and lunch the next day, and was allowed to go with the car when they drove to San Fernando, they drove me to Puente Negro, from where I quickly hitchhiked to Las Peñas.
Small supermarket (+ a mini market, but did not visit) in Agua Buena, was open from about 10am, but may vary. Enough good food for the next stage.
* Jan-4-2024 to jan-8-2024 / 5 days / SOBO / Option 2A - RR - variant D - RR / Matthieu
Nice hike, trail in good condition (a little bit overgrowned sometimes with spiky bushes before the first pass - slippery with rolling stones on the last descent to estero antivero, before going back to the treeline, as lilian said)
The only hard part is the bush bashing at km39. For this part, when it goes down steep, try to stick to the tracks or try to go to the left ridge, but don't follow the water streams going to your right like I did, it was hell ! The plants grow wild near water. Matthias had the same adventure I think. When you arrive on flat ground, it becomes much easier.
Variants : I took option 2A to not pass by the private property at the beginning of RR. You can begin by 2A and cross the river to join option 2 . The trail is
in very good condition. If you don't want to cross the river you can directly begin Option 2.
I took a look at investigation option 2B. It seemed overgrowned and steepy from my bank, so I didn't cross the river to check, and came back for the simple plan.
Water : all water markers are still good. For the first pass (36.5), you have water until 1 km before, a good stream with shadow to rest.
For the second pass : as Lilian said, the important water point is km54, good flow. There are few streams in the valley between the two passes but muddy and green... almost done. One little stream 1 km before the pass (63.7), clear and fresh water. So to be carefull I would take water to cross from km 54 to km 71 for the rest of the season.
Camp : on a little pass after Option 2 join RR - at km 43.5 (full of trash and cowshit but close to the river). You have other nice places between 43.5 and rio claro, between the multiple river crosses - on variant D after the broken bridge (on the south bank, after crossing with the good bridge) - km 64.7, flat area as Lilian described, no protection,no water, good view. You have a lot of places when you join the treeline after the last pass.
River crossings :
The big question was Rio Claro de las Nieves (the big one). RR crossing seemed like suicide. Locals told me that they don't do it this year.
To explain, variant D is actually a touristic minor road. People take the metal bridge (3km after broken one) with their vehicles (i saw 2 camionettas and an old car on it). So it's pretty solid, but when I crossed (16h, the worst time) there was some waves going above it, but not above my feet. Only 5 or 6 paces, really short, and large enough for a big car. Nothing to hold on. It's impressive with the big flow under.
No problem for the other rivers. Rio claro de quaucenes to thighs but the flow was not so strong.
Other : another snake near the third pass, they really are lazy and let you approach pretty close !
Accomodation : restaurant la Higuera like the others, they are so nice and you eat well, fresh products !
* 2023-Dec-14 to 2023-Dec-18 / 5 days / SOBO / RR + Variant B+C+D(extended) + Exploratory Variant 5 / Matthias