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{{Trekking Chile}}
{{Rutas Patrimoniales english}}
==Season==
==Location==
Chile Paths Heritage Route Milodón:
Patagonia in the foothill of the Paine
massif
locates immediately to the south of the
large massif of El Paine, going through
west costs of Porteño Lake and Toro Lake
until the Serrano River, in the east end of
Campo de Hielo Sur. At 47 kilometers to
the north of the city of Puerto Natales, next
to Milodón cave, the start of this heritage
route, is the door of the south access to
Torres del Paine National Park, parallel to
the new vehicular road, an alternative for
hiking lovers who want to directly know
austral landscapes and most outstanding
guideposts of this heritage route.
==Access==
To access the route from Puerto Natales,
take the route to Cerro Castillo continuing
by this way for 17 kilometers of the paved
road, where you will find the vehicular
access to the west towards the Milodón
cave. Continue by this second way for 9
kilometers and you will arrive to CONAFs
( National Forestal Corporation )
information and administration center
which is the access to the Natural
Monument of Milodon Cave with 189
hectares. Continue for another 20
kilometers by the main road. At 600 meters
to north direction from the limit between
the district of Natales and Torres del Paine,
by the west side of the route, you will arrive
to the parking lot and start of this route.
To Magellan's region and Antarctic Chilean
one can accede terrestrial route, airway and
sea route. The flights arrive from Santiago,
the capital of Chile and Port Montt at the
Punta Arenas city. The terrestrial access is
realized crossing the Argentine territory,
existing five frontier(opposite) qualified
steps: Monte Aymond, Rio Don Guillermo,
Casas Viejas, Dorotea and San Sebastián
(in Tierra del Fuego). The maritime access is
realized across the Patagonian channels
from the city of Port Montt. A detail of these
diverse accesses you can consult in
www.sernatur.cl and / or www.patagonia-
chile.com.
===By car===
===Public transport===
==Markers==
This Topoguide is an essential aid for
anybody who wants to travel this
Heritage Route, since it helps user to
link signs on the route to literature,
maps, and images contained in the
Topoguide for each segment of the
tour.
The route is made up by 26 duly
signaled Guideposts of heritage
interest. For better orientation,
duration of the tour and
understanding by visitors, interesting
spots have been divided into four
independent segments.
Signs used in this route are divided
into four types according to their
functions:
Marker post indicating a guidepost
of interest,
Marker post of rout continuity,
Welcome sign and
Interpretative panel
==General description==
Chile Paths Heritage Route Milodón: Patagonia in the foothill of the Paine massif is one of the
most extraordinary alternatives for walking and trekking fans, who do not want to visit Torres
del Paine National Park only by its new south access, but also typical austral latitude ecosystems
perfectly complemented by a wide range of panoramic views of one of the most interesting
zones of Chilean Patagonia Paine cordillera.
This route is opened to walking and ecotourism fans thanks to the contribution made by the
Ministry of National Property through its Heritage Routes program and its regional Secretariat
of Magallanes, from Chile Path program, coordinated by National Environment Commission,
the Chilean Army, Province Government of Natales, that with their professionals and support
staff have not only allowed to provide pedestrian access to such an emblematic site as Torres
del Paine National Park, but also make this guide available to all the citizens, allowing to travel
the route safely and informed.
This is a 45 kilometer walk by the border of Porteño and Toro lakes, crossing an endless number
of rivulets, woods, and prairies until getting to Serrano river. Follow by a track parallel to the
vehicle road that will allow you to access to Torres del Paine National Park -, wolds biosphere
reservation - from the south. This route is an invitation to trekking over Patagonia, next to public
roads.
This tour comprises at least three days of moderate speed walk, not only to travel safe and save
time enough to watch natural life and landscapes that will be discovered over the tour, but also
for the existence of determined camping sites.
==Route description==
This Chile Paths Heritage Route starts
south Porteño lake, at the austral end
of the District of Torres del Paine. Over
its layout, parallel to the public road,
you will visit 26 Guideposts of
heritage interest along the 45
kilometer track connected to the
observation of flora and fauna, water
streams and bodies, and strategic
points as natural miradors providing
the most splendid south panoramic
views of Paine cordillera and Campo
de Hielo Sur glaciers, such as Grey and
Tyndall, with their adjacent lakes and
rivers.
The path has been divided into four
segments:
1.Start to Ventisquero River
2.Ventisquero river to Rincón river
3.Rincón river to El Salto river
4.El Salto river to Serrano river
The first segment is born by
humedales (Riparian habitats) at
the beginning of the route, and ends
at Ventisquero river. This is an
interesting tour for watching wild life
oriented to a general audience, with
no difficulties whatsoever, except
climbing fences, which have been
provided with structures allowing to
overcome them easier, representing
a 6 kilometer extension, and
including 5 Guideposts of interest.
The second segment starts in
Ventisquero river and ends in El
Rincón river. This is a special segment
for wild life watching, but also to visit
a number of miradors of Porteño and
Toro lakes, as well as to observe so
many Macizo del Paine tops. This
segment provides 14 kilometers of track and includes 7 Guideposts of
interest for an audience more
specialized in long walks, with no
difficulty whatsoever.
The third segment starts in Rincón
river and ends in El Salto river. It
corresponds to a 7.2 km segment
allowing to arrive to the service area
by El Salto river, an ideal site to spend
the night and keep walking the day
after.
Fourth segment starts in El Salto river
and ends in Serrano river valley. This
is the segment having the highest
number of natural miradors in
Macizo del Paine (Paine Mountain
Range), and is the longest segment
of the route with its 15 kilometer tour.
For a specialized audience in walks
on rough terrain and exposed to
strong winds, this is an interesting
chance to travel vicinities of Campo
de Hielo Patagónico Sur, with 10
Guideposts of interest.
===First segment===
This Heritage Route starts after
leaving public road in a site allowing
to cross a fence parallel to the road.
There, you will see a welcome sign.
Start walking by an interesting
Ñirres forest (Nothofagus
antarctica), intermingled with
beautiful Calafates (Magellan
Barberry - Berberis buxifolia), a
typical specie of Magallanes region.
By 1895, a German settler, Hermann
Eberhard, who lived near Puerto
Natales, found in these valleys some
pieces of skin of an animal that was
then unknown, the Milodón
(Mylodón darwinii listai). This
herbivore mammal, of the genus of
the gound-sloths, similar to a big
bear, was twice as tall as a human
being. Reasons of this mammal
extinction, 10 to 13 thousands of
years ago, are not yet clear, being
possibly due to hunting by the first
men who lived in the zone, and to
climate changes that altered
vegetation cover of these valleys.
Leaving Milodón steps behind, you
will follow by a well defined track,
passing by the north-east bank of a
riparian habitat. This is where you
will find a beautiful mirador of this
wetland, a recurrent formation in
depressions formed after glacial
recession, and where you may see a
dense cover of southern bulrush
(Scirpus californicus) and dry
cypresses in its surroundings. We are
at Guidepost Nr. 2.
Southern bulrush, pertaining to the
Cyperacean family, develops in
water-saturated environments. This
is a perennial specie, with a very
robust underground stem allowing it
to be anchored to the wetland
developing a net from which long
green cylindrical air stems sprout. At
the stem end, they produce a little
brown ear eaten by birds, while stalks
were used in the past to manufacture
mats.
From Guidepost Nr. 2, keep going for
1.2 kilometers by the border of the
riparian habitat at a short distance
by open lands. A small river will be
flowing by your left, with a shrubby
wood in some places, until reaching
a fence, that you will have to cross. A
flat land of prairies starts here,
connected to an old ranch from
which you may still obtain, at a long
distance and in good weather, the
first views of Macizo del Paine, as well
as evident signs of human
intervention in the valleys.
After crossing the access road to a
booth you will see to your left, travel
around 800 meters of a soft ascension
bound to the north-west until arriving
to Guidepost Nr. 3, by a little rivulet,
obtaining panoramic views of the
unnamed lagoon of Vega Casola to
the east, an interesting water body,
where you can observe black-necked
swans.
At Guidepost Nr. 3, in addition to rest
for a while, you can see the chilco
(Fuchsia magellanica), a truly
beautiful flower specie usually
growing along water streams. This is
an up to 3 meter high perennial shrub
requiring wet soils, rich in organic
matter, properly drained and with
atmospheric humidity.
Its flashy and abundant deep red
flowers may be seen from mid spring
to the autumn.
From guidepost number 3, follow
ahead a short distance until a road
bifurcation. In this area, pay
attention to the main trail, because
a frequent animal crossing had
create multiple trails.
. Go to the left and, a few steps ahead,
you will start going down by the
hillside and cross a rivulet, where you
can observe old Magellan Coigue
(Nothofagus betuloides). We
recommend you to stop here,
Guidepost Nr. 4, for a while and take
a rest in the shadow of these beautiful
trees.
Magellan coigüe is a sub-Antarctic
wood endemic specie which is very
resistant to climate factors, such as,
rain, wind and snow. It grows from
Valdivia to cape Horn with sizes of up
to 25 meters high, of straight trunk
and twisted branches. It flowers in
spring time and its small nut-shaped
fruits ripen at the end of the summer.
Its light-colored wood is usually of
very good quality and resistant,
characteristics that make it
appropriate to be used in
construction and furniture-making,
however, further to the north, in these
latitudes, it is not considered as good.
Digueñes (cup-fungi), also called
Quireñes (Cyttaria spp.,
discomycetes) grow on their
branches on other Nothofagus
species branches too. They are
sphere-shaped and orange-colored
parasite fungi that dominate upper
wood strip and ripen on August,
September, and October.
They have historically been eaten raw
and have been used to manufacture
chicha. However, one must be careful
since those growing on Coigue catch
an unpleasant flavor and may be a
little toxic. Little is known on this
fungus in spite of its consumption.
Some studies have revealed the
presence of compounds with anti-
tumoral properties in Digueñes.
Continuing the tour from Guidepost
Nr. 4, pass by the sector having a less
defined track, a little flooded with
rain, around 170 meters until arriving
to a fence, that you will have to cross.
From this crossing, follow to the left,
slightly climbing up by hillside, being
at all times able to see typical wet
environment vegetation by the clear
track, such as, Nalcas (Gunnera
scombro), in an adult Coigue wood.
Few meters ahead, you will leave the
wood and start travelling by the
mountain side. These are open lands
mostly dominated by chauras
(Pernettya mucronata) and
calafates (Berberis buxifolia).
Keeping elevation by the main track,
you will observe in this segment of the
tour wide panoramic views of the
valley, of Porteño lake, and of such
riparian habitats from the start of the
route.
Pay attention. After going down the
hillside, observe to the left interesting
witnesses of glacial erosion in rocky
walls, denoted by furrows created by
ice flowing in ancient times.
Once you are back in flat lands, pass
by a flooded soil sector, continuing
then parallel to public road until
crossing a fence again. From this last
crossing, consider 800 meters of tour
to the north-west until seeing a
beautiful waterfall to your left,
connected to Ventisquero river. Few
meters later, and heading to the east,
you will arrive to a camping zone and
public road, after which you will cross
this river by a vehicle bridge,
Guidepost Nr 5.
This place, besides its resting role,
have an importance, because it is one
of the best know Cerro Tenerifes and
Cordillera Prat access point. The Cerro
Tenerife zone represents one of the
most important area for the tourism
development, basically, ought to the
great number of mountain activities
that it is possible to practice in that
space.
===Second Segment===
Immediately after passing by the
vehicle bridge allowing to cross
Ventisquero river, cross the fence,
always following the track by the
western strip, parallel to the public
road. Start of this second segment is
signaled and identified with an
interpretative table. The track is here
relatively close to the vehicle road
and usually corresponds to muddy
lands, although as you may see
works have been done to make the
tour easier. Heading north, you will
get to a clear strip among a dense
wood until arriving to a rustic gate.
Here, you may see a typical Liquen of
Nothofagus woods, the so-called
beard of mount beard (Usnea
barbata), which is used to dye wool
and for its antibiotic properties.
After passing the rustic gate, head
north around 500 meters until
arriving to some prairies where
beautiful views of Macizo del Paine
may be seen in sunny days. By a little
pond, you will find Guidepost Nr. 6,
the first mirador of this route,
providing majestic views of this
mountain range.
Macizo del Paine (Paine Mountain
Range) is a mountain range
dominated by granite towers and by
the grandiose Paine Grande, topped
by glaciers and surrounded by
emerald, turquoise, and deep blue-
colored lakes,. Surrounding area has
been designated World Biosphere
Reserve, as well as being a National
Park.
Cerro Paine Grande (that stands for
blue in Tehuelche language), with
3,050 m.a.s.l., is the highest hill in the
Province of Ultima Esperanza. Its first
ascension was in 1957 by the
legendary Italian expedition led by
Guido Monzino, and the second was
only in year 2000, by the Italian
Rolando Garibotti and the French
Bruno Sourac.
From Guidepost Nr. 6, keep going for
around 1,000 meters by the road until
arriving to the access road to the
ranch, where you will have to cross
the wooden fence. Then, continue to
the north crossing another fence and
follow a well defined track by open
lands, dominated by dense chauras
and calafates. You will start seeing
Porteño lake waters immediately to
the east until finding a small rivulet,
corresponding to Guidepost Nr. 7, an
ideal site to obtain a general
panoramic view of this lagoon water
body and of typical Patagonian
flower species, such as, notro
(Embothrium coccineum).
Just like coigüe, notro is endemic from
sub-Antarctic woods. It grows in
sandy, stony and wet soils, from the
sea level to 400 m.a.s.l. in these
latitudes. It is a perennial tree of flashy
light red asymmetric, tube-shaped,
and long leaves. In other countries, it
is called Fire Bush due to its
flowering, which takes place in Chile
from September to January. Its fruit,
a woody follicle, is open when ripen
in autumn.
Pale pink-colored wood has a vein
which is very appreciated in furniture-
making industry. Both its bark and
leaves are believed to have medicinal
properties to cure dental neuralgia
and improve wound healing. Notro
leaf and bark infusion to which a
sugar-coated red-hot coal is added
heals stomach ache.
From Guidepost Nr. 7, walk around the
hillside by a clear track while you will
encounter big fallen trunks, the
manifestation of old fires that
destroyed virgin woods which covered
most of these lands.
1.2 kilometers to the north, after
crossing a small water stream, you will
find a rivulet coming from a waterfall
that may be observed around 300
meters to the west. This stream, just
like other small rivulets, disappears
during dry periods, reason why water
should be taken only from rivers or
streams mentioned in this guide.
As well as watching Tenerife hill at the
south-west sector, by the rivulet
mentioned above, we recommend to
stop for a while to rest and admire
native flora existing in this site,
Guidepost Nr. 8.
We can mention Magellan Barberry
typical character and color beauty.
This is a 2 to 3 meter high thorny
shrub that grows in open lands on
the banks of water courses and in
wood borders. It has a typical yellow
flower and provided eatable bright
black-colored berries, mostly used in
fine marmalades, jellies and syrups,
as well as having a natural coloring
agent used in food industry. Popular
medicine attributes healing
properties to this specie, such as,
antidiarrheal and antiseptic.
Leaving Guidepost Nr 8 behind, a
wide panoramic view of Porteño lake
appears a few meters later. Be careful
to travel by the main track, which less
from 1 kilometer from previous
guidepost, goes down the hillside
until arriving to the valley at the level
of Porteño lake, always parallel to the
vehicle road heading north.
You will get to a quite stream after
passing by an old fence, which is
another alternative to take a break
in this walk and admire Tenerife hill,
of 1,670 m.a.s.l., providing - with its
conic shape - to those who climb it
up panoramic views to Campo de
Hielo Patagónico Sur, Paine
Cordillera, Prat Cordillera, and a
number of surrounding lakes and
woods.
It was named out of the first Spanish
settlers (Casola and San Román
Families) who arrived to the sector
from Canary Islands, among which is
Tenerife.
Its first ascension goes back to 1937
by the Argentinean Andes mountain
climber from Santa Fe, Dr. Gustavo
A. Foster. Many climbers have been
there since then, among whom we
can particularly mention the
mountain climbers Italian engineers
who worked in the installation of
Coal Deposit Río Turbio by the 50s.
Following the path you will arrive to
guidepost 9. Here you will find the
vehicle road, which you should take
for force majeure reasons. Continue
through this way with precaution
and always by its left sidewalk for
approximately 1,000 m to north until
you take the path again. The road
you are currently walking through is
a recent work and was constructed
to decrease distances between the
city of Puerto Natales and the Torres
del Paine National Park by the
Military Corp of Work, a unit of
engineers and technicians of the
Army of Chile. These men have
worked even under very rough
weather conditions to construct this
road and facilitate access of people
to these so important natural
scenarios throughout the world.
In order of identify, our return to the
trail, at the left you will find signs and
a ladder on a fence. For
approximately 1,000 m you will
continue parallel to road and at a few
meters thereof you will go inside
through hillsides and streams of
these small hills with northeast
direction. We are getting close to
Guidepost Nr 10.
When you go inside through the
small stream that allows crossing
these hills at your left you will see that
surrounding hillsides are very
irregular. Originated from
sedimentary rocks (rocks forming
from pieces and materials, minerals
and organic elements, coming from
decomposition and deposit of other
materials), these hills have
experienced a series of fractures,
overturns and slidings of large blocks
of rocks forming them from high to
low zones. The above has generated
a stepped and abrupt landscape with
zones of diverse vegetation
development: ripe forests, young
forests, thickets, only prairie and
areas with naked rock. When leaving
the stream, you will have a splendid
view of the Tenerife hill and as
background Macizo del Paine to the
north. We are in Guidepost Nr 10.
During the next 1,500 m,
approximately, you should climb and
go down slopes between coigües,
ñirres (Nothofagus antarctica),
Chaura (Gaultheria mucrata) and
some Notros. In this part, path is clear,
you can walk safe. While you keep
walking, you will find a small brook.
Refill your canteen, since you will not
find water until you arrive to Rincón
River, approximately at about 3,000
meters ahead.
Continuing with the tour, the path
passes by a zone with a thin
vegetable layer, with the presence
ñirres (Nothofagus antarctica),
Notro (Embothrium coccineum)
and coigüe (Nothofagus
betuloides) young forests. Go ahead
and you will find a beautiful and little
wetland with a pond in its center.
Good view to Tenerife hill (1,670
m.a.s.l.) and of some tourism cabins
located by El Rincón river outlet.
Porteño lake will always flow to your
right and as a background highest
peaks of Macizo del Paine which may
be seen over near hills.
Following the path, you will start
climbing down until arriving to a
place where track changes its
direction dramatically bound to the
West. A segment of permanent
climbing up is here showing its first
signs.
30 meters later, you will find a table-
shaped rock with its 5 meter inclined
cover, that you will have to cross after
climbing up one step. The path, that
is in general wide and well defined in
this sector, will make you climb for
around 150 meters until finding
yourself soon within an adult and
healthy forest surrounded by ñirres
and Coigues. You will have to pass by
two natural stairs in the next 200
meters, and walk now by a soft, but
dry surface. Helechos and some
Coicopihues (Philesia magellanica)
will start showing up. Your attention
will also be caught by a robust coigüe
(Nothofagus betuloides) with over a
meter diameter. Now, path gradient
is higher and is zigzagging in such a
way that you will find yourself
heading south more than once. You
will be joined by beautiful tall shrubs
by both sides of the route, among
which we can mention: siete camisas
(Escallonia rubra), calafates
(Berberis buxifolia), romerillo
(Chiliotrichum diffusum), and
chauras (Pernettya mucronata).
Walking now by flat land, you will
find a continuity marker post, having
Porteño lake to your right. This
around 20 km² lake, discharges its
water into Maravilla lake, a water
body that cannot be seen from this
route.
Looking to the north, you may watch
Porteño lake final portion by the
isthmus that separates it from Toro
lake. This sector gives rise to Peninsula
del Toro, a wide section of El
Complejo Ranch, with over 5,000
hectares of unmatchable cattle-
breeding and tourism aptitude. Note
that this ranch houses is a few
Mayten forest (Maytenus boaria) in
Magallanes Region.
The path is always wide and well
defined, making you easier to
distinguish between a track among
the little wood and the shrubs. After
walking another 200 meters, path
surface becomes softer for being
made up leaf dirt. Then, you will start
walking up by rocky ground and by
sharp naked rock during several
segments. 100 meters ahead, you will
find the highest point and
unmatchable natural Atalaya with
beautiful panoramic views,
corresponding to Guidepost Nr. 11.
Now, you may appreciate the
majestic south face of Tenerife hill
(1,670 m.a.s.l.) at your back. Macizo
del Paine is the most grandiose by the
north and dominates the entire zone
highlighting Cuernos del Paine (2,600
m.a.s.l.) and mount Almirante Nieto
(2,670 m.a.s.l.). To the west and from
north to south, we can see Castillo hill
(1,250 m.a.s.l.), Campana hill (1,220
m.a.s.l.), Ventana hill (1,180 m.a.s.l.),
and Mocho hill to the south-east
(1,350 m.a.s.l.) as part of the sierra
Manuel Señoret. Keep going by the
path, always on naked rock and
careful to its continuity, since it is not
that clear. Be careful to start climbing
down through the rocks since wind
could be dangerous.
Few meters later, the route clearly
starts to climb down looking for
Rincón river eastern bank. Path is
clear here and 250 meters ahead, you
will pass by a rustic handrail that
crosses an old road driving to a
quarry. Landscape is always beautiful
with Macizo del Paine as a
background. You will then find a new
continuity marker post located
always to your right.
The path is always wide and clear,
crossing sectors covered by low
shrubs and thickets. Walk in the same
direction and 300 meters ahead, you
will find the equestrian path junction
that drives to a ranch spot that
cannot be seen from here.
Turn to the right and follow the
Rincón River, sounding at your left.
From the last junction, walk around
500 meters until finally getting to a
door. A ladder has been built in one
side to cross the fence and arrive to
the vehicle road and the bridge on
Rincón river. If you cross the door, do
not forget to leave it closed; these are
good manners which are always
appreciated in Patagonia.
Cross Rincón bridge and continue by
the vehicle road around 150 meters
until arriving to Guidepost Nr. 12,
corresponding to the entrance to the
path and start of the third segment
of this route.
===Third Segment===
To take the track again, after crossing
the bridge, observe the interpretative
panel installed at one side of the road
and that announces the third
segment. You will walk on a land
covered with thicket roots, always
keeping your position at the west side
of the vehicular road.
After crossing, a few steps ahead
there is a very thin water current. You
should take a general direction to the
north. During about 400 meters you
will move forward through a forest
of beautiful young forest of Antarctic
Beech; the surface is now a beautiful
firm-grass prairie. Besides increasing
height, you will enter a forest of leafy
and ripe Coigües, crossing again a
rivulet. Although there is a footbridge,
you should take some precautions to
cross it. Take advantage to drink
water and supply with it.
Begin to enjoy the appearance of
the first Guaitecas cypresses
(Pilgerodendron uvifera) you will
be finding on your way.
Although the track continues through
the rocky edge it is easily predictable.
At both flanks you will find the
presence of cypresses associated to
Coigües (Nothofagus betuloides).
After moving forward for about three
hundred meters you will be entering
in a forest of high Fire Bushed and
Coigües; in spite the track is no longer
in good conditions, it is clearly
signaled, which will enable walking
without difficulties. A large number
of coicopihues (Philesia
magellanica) cover the ground,
providing great beauty to the
environment, depending on the
season of your visit. A few meters
ahead and next to a short but steep
slope you will find a beautiful sight
of Tenerife Hill (1.670m.a.s.l.) which
shows its northern face practically
devoided of vegetation and in strong
contrast to highly forested hillsides
we saw in the north-east; these are
indisputable signs of the dominant
winds of the region favoring life in
south-east hillsides. Seize this
opportunity to immortalize this
moment with a couple of photos.
Continue in north direction. You will
perceive the vehicular road at your
right hand practically during all your
way at no more than 200 meters. You
will walk on rocks and sometimes on
pillows of Líquenes. You will see a
huge dump of dry commodities from
recent construction labors of the new
road. You should displace carefully
on these huge stones. In a low-lying
land you will face some difficulties to
walk through some 200 meters
between bushes and high pines. After
this reef you will pass to another
sector where you will walk
comfortably. The dump will be
accompanying you for about 200
meters at your right. Concentrate on
the sight you have on your left where
you will watch a beautiful mountain
hillside almost within hands reach.
Be careful when crossing a group of
rocks existing in that place, which are
risky because of their humidity.
Continuing with the tour by the right
side, you can observe a large forest
of Guaitecas Cypresses that has
favored its development as it locates
on a peat surface. Do not doubt to
come close and watch this particular
natural system. You will observe how
this tree species develops solely in
flooded zones, feel its special aroma
and confirm how the path of a big
fire in 1925 burnt trunks. Now, 80
years later, cypresses show their new
sprouts, denoting the regeneration
of forest in these peat banks.
Peat bank corresponds to
heterogenic soils constituted by
decomposed vegetal material and
minerals accumulated through the
years. Wrong drainage conditions
after retrocession of ice, in cold and
rainy climates favor this type of
peculiar formations.
Most representative species of peat
bank areas are musgo de turbera
(Spagnum magellanicum),
gramíneas, cyperáceas, and species
on cushions mixing with each other.
It must be noticed that the high
content of peat organic matter allows
it is an excellent humus supplier,
providing vigor to plants and
vegetables and providing higher
extension of roots. This has
encouraged its use as fertilizer in
seedlings and greenhouses.
Continue by the east edge of this peat
bank and then enter the adult forest.
Consider a bit more than 150 meters
in the wood until you arrive to a
stream, corresponding to Guidepost
Nr. 13, which can be crossed with
precaution passing by bridged
constructed thereto. This is an
excellent site protected from strong
winds.
Next to the stream, take the
advantage to admire an interesting
wood of Coigües, partially intermixed
with Canelo, representing what some
day in the past were ripe forests in
these humid valleys.
From Guidepost Nr. 13, continue in a
north-west direction for about 300
meters across the forest and then get
out of it. Always continuing by the
main track, continue until reaching
a site where land opens facing the
south end of a riparian habitat with
an interesting cypress bank, cross it.
This crossing has been enabled with
footbridges and it will lead you to the
other end of the wetland or riparian
habitat. We are in Guidepost Nr. 14,
a beautiful site to watch this
protected native specie.
Ciprés de las guaitecas
(Pilgerodendron uvifera), a native
tree specie from the south cone, most
austral representative of Coniferae,
has leaves laid out in scale position
very similar to alerce (Fitzroya
cupressoides) appearance, but
arranged in pairs in one same point
forming a cross.
Generally, it is found in small size, but
in favorable conditions it can reach
up to 40 meters height and 1 meter
of trunk diameter. The bark looks like
the Larch but it is not reddish, forming
partly pure woods.
In these valleys, the Guaitecas Cypress
is present in very restrained areas due
to the extraction of its timber and
fires, reason why it does not longer
form pure woods but rather it
associates with Antarctic Beeches
and Coigüe of Magallanes.
From Guidepost Nr. 14, cross this
same riparian habitat in a segment
not higher than 100 meters which has
also been intervened to improve
conditions of hiking. From the north
end of riparian habitat, walk up the
partly rocky hillside gradually with
north-west direction.
Consider no more than 800 meters of
steep ascent by rocky hillsides
combined with thickets on lands with
less marked track. In consequence,
you should be a little more aware in
the direction to be followed. Take
general north-west direction until
beginning a short descent by the
hillside, where splendid panoramic
views open to Macizo del Paine and
Toro Lake in all their extension,
corresponding to Guidepost Nr. 15, a
site exposed to strong winds reason
why you should have maximum
precaution to possible falls or
hypothermia.
Toro Lake with a number of
peninsulas and small bays is the
largest lake of the region. It has an
extension of 202 square kilometers
and 320 meters depth. Its crystalline
waters offer great conditions for sport
fishing with the presence of brown
trout and rainbow trout.
From Guidepost Nr. 15, follow
direction to the north for 400 meters
to arrive to a good benchmark in this
part of the road: A natural bridge of
rocks over a stream which will allow
you to cross and follow across open
lands covered by dense thickets and
disperse Fire Bushes.
From the previous natural rock
bridge, calculate another 400 meters
to the north until you reach to a
stream with a rivulet that provides
water supply.
From the rivulet continue with equal
direction for a little more than half
kilometer and you will find an old
fence, cross it watching at your left
side a small waterfall of El Santo
River, which you will cross later. From
the old fence, star a small descent
until finding a riparian habitat that
you will see from the distance.
Cross the riparian habitat or wetland
and you will enter a wood
immediately. At a few meters inside
this wood of Coigües and Lengas
(Nothofagus pumilio) you should
cross El Santo River, a crossing
corresponding to Guidepost Nr. 16,
an ideal place to spend the night in a
service area and continue walking
across the last segment of this road
the day after.
===Fourth Segment===
Before starting this new segment, do
not forget to bring a good supply of
drinking water (minimum 2 liters per
person) because, depending on the
season of the year, it could be your
last chance to obtain it before arriving
to the Serrano River sector, finish of
this heritage road.
From El Salto River, continue climbing
the hillside slightly changing direction
to the north-east until you cross a
fence. At a short distance, you will
observe a small lagoon to east
direction going downwards by the
hillside until reaching Guidepost Nr.
17, an ideal place to observe one of
the most representative tree species
in these ecosystems.
The endemic sauco (Pseudopanax
laetevirens ) of sub Antarctic forests,
grows up to 1,300 m.a.s.l., although
in these latitudes it hardly grows more
than 50 m.a.s.l. in humid and forest
zones or on banks of water courses.
This tree with a growth of up to 8
meters height has a grayish and
smooth trunk. It characterizes for its
blue fruits at the end of the summer
giving an unequal coloring.
From Guidepost Nr. 17 continue the
road to north-east direction where
you will find at a short distance a
small lagoon. When you cross this
water body completely, it flows to
north-west, and climbing by the rocky
hillside at no more than 400 meters
you will arrive to a sector, that
depending on the season of the year,
is slightly water-flooded. Be extremely
careful when crossing these humid
lands, and then continue by sharp
rocks with extraordinary panoramic
views for about 200 meters to the
north-west. After a short descent, you
will enter a Lenga coppice and
immediately after you will arrive to a
rivulet that during dry seasons does
not contribute waters, reason why
you should take a water provision
before in El Santo River.
Continue through the same direction
going round the edge of a wood of
Coigües and Fire Bushes not going
down the stream until arriving to an
interesting forest of canelo Trees,
corresponding to Guidepost Nr. 18.
The canelo (Drimys winteri) locates
in swampy lands and next to rivers
and streams between the Limarí River
by the north and Cabo de Hornos by
the south at no more than 1,200
m.a.s.l.. The trunk is straight and
cylindrical, reaches about 30 meters
height up to one meter of diameter.
Bark is smooth, light gray, thick and
soft.
Sacred tree for the Mapuche people.
They adore, venerate, and assign
magic properties to it.
Timber of canelo is very attractive,
reason why it is used in construction,
furniture and manufacture of musical
instruments. It is not useful as fuel as
when it burns it generates stinging
smoke.
In the past, canelo was used to fight
scurvy as it was rich in Vitamin C. For
its tannins, essence oils, antibacterial
substances, and iron and calcium
salts, it is used in applications to clean
wounds and against rheumatism,
stomach affections, throat pain,
mange, tinea and even it has been
discovered that it has properties in the
treatment against cancer.
After admiring these wonderful
species and their qualities, and taking
the tour again from Guidepost Nr. 18,
you will enter a mixed wood of Coigüe
and canelo Trees. Consider about 600
meters of steep climbing, in part they
are step-shaped naked rocks,
abundant thicket and adult wood, so
you will have to be specially
concentrated while you walk up.
Although this climbing will demand
some effort, do not forget the
innumerable sites that allow to
delight with wide panoramic sights
that give a breath during this ascent.
Consistently with the finish of ascents,
at a few meters more to north-west
direction, already upon descent, you
will reach Guidepost Nr. 19, an
extraordinary mirador with more
than 180º of vision. We recommend
a brief break and take some unequal
panoramic pictures. Do not forget
that in this place as in many other
exposed sites of this road, strong
winds are recurrent. Frequently, they
reach speeds higher than 35 knots,
making walking difficult. If you face
them, remember that you are in one
of the most atmospherically unstable
zones of the planet that generate
these peculiar phenomena and
undoubtedly require that you equip
properly with wind-resistant jackets
and thermal clothes for these
latitudes.
From Guidepost Nr. 19, walk about
300 meters, always in north-west
direction until you see the first views
from the distance of Grey Glacier.
Consider that you are in open lands
partially covered by thickets and with
coppice of young forests, where the
track is less precise. However, in less
than half an hour you will be forced
to cross a fence going downwards the
mountain hillside. Already in the low
part of the valley, you will take a track
fairly clear again direct to north
direction and pass across an
interesting community of Fire Bushes.
Approximately 200 meters ahead,
after passing a rock step of about 5
meters height in the middle of the
descent of open lands, you will arrive
to Guidepost Nr. 20, a preferred site
for those who enjoy with special
attention, the tracks left on the rocks
some day in the past by the path of
huge ice mass and their abrasive
power. They are glaciers of Campo de
Hielo Patagónico Sur, particularly,
Tyndall and Grey glaciers, which with
their gradual quaternary retrocessions
left these marks uncovered. They are
real lines in furrows generated by their
constant transport of detritus in
permanent crash with the mother
rock.
From Guidepost Nr. 20, always going
downwards by the clear track, at 800
meters more to north direction from
the last guidepost of interest, you
could see a lagoon on your right side.
Try to take your right hand in the next
branching, entering into a riparian
habitat with east direction. There is a
long footbridge thereon which name
is Puente Toro. Certainly it will
facilitate your pass. Pay special
attention to take your right again,
once you have crossed the wetland
from where you can continue your
tour when getting near the public
road, but without going through it.
Continue the tour, walking
downwards across open lands,
crossing a small lagoon around its
south edge. Go around the edge of this
beautiful water body through a clear
track until you arrive to a mirador,
ideal for watching the bird fauna
typical in these environments and that
correspond to Guidepost Nr. 21. One
again, if there is strongly windy day,
take the necessary precautions.
In this site, we can watch, among
other species of birds, the Spectacled
Duck (Speculanas specularis), that
can be observed from Aconcagua to
Magallanes in rivers and lagoons of
woody zones.
It has dark brown head and rear neck
with large white spots around the eyes
and front neck. This beautiful specie
is generally in torrential rivers and
forested lagoons of woody zones.
They generally look for pools, ponds
or puddles, where they are observed
in couples or small family groups.
Omnivores, they find food on the edge
of rivers or lagoons, avoiding to get
deep inside the open field.
They nest in pastured islets and build
a voluminous nest coated with
plumule, covering it with grass and
normally laying between 5 and 7
eggs.
From Guidepost Nr. 21 continue until
the north end of the lagoon and from
there go round the edge of the wood
of Antarctic Beeches. There you will
contemplate silence, the beauty of the
singing of a number of bird species
wondering in the wood, among them,
the Andean Tapaculo (Currín del Sur
- Scytalopus magellanicus) and the
Thorn-tailed Rayadito (Aphrastura
spinicauda). Follow the well-marked
track, in a few minutes you will cross
a small rivulet where you can supply
with water, but, do not be confident,
because in dry seasons this rivulet
dries and will force you to supply with
water from El Santo River during all
this last segment.
From this small rivulet, walk up by a
small perron that will lead you to the
east. Short after, you will arrive to an
open sector, having a new chance to
see interesting sights of the
surrounding places.
Continue going downwards the
hillside gradually and soon you will
arrive to a dump of rocky materials
generated by the construction of the
vehicular road to the Serrano River.
Cross this dump by a segment of
something more than 100 meters
to north-west direction.
After passing a small forest in clear
track, you will start to climb by open
lands with abundant Chaura and
where panoramic sights of Macizo
del Paine, Grey Glacier and Toro
Lake are predominant. This will
undoubtedly draw the attention of
any tourist. At the end of the ascent,
you will find Guidepost Nr. 22,
corresponding to the sixth mirador
of this road, an ideal place to
contemplate the last views of
Macizo del Paine and Toro Lake too.
In this part of the tour, due to the
exposure to strong winds coming
from Campo Hielo Sur, we
recommend to wear wind-resistant
and thermal clothes appropriate for
these austral latitudes.
From Guidepost Nr. 22, the track
goes downwards smoothly by the
hillside for about 200 meters until
seeing for the first time in this route,
the majestic Serrano River. Continue
the tour leading to the west,
crossing 3 small streams
surrounded by beautiful coppices,
sites appropriate for short breaks
and that will protect you from
strong winds.
After crossing the third stream, you
will arrive to a new mirador,
Guidepost Nr 23, number seven in
this route, where, under weather
conditions with good visibility, you
will be allowed to observe the Grey
glacier and lake, as well as the valley
of the Serrano River, which is
coming closer. This is a clear
announcement that we are getting
near the final part of this heritage
route.
From Guidepost Nr. 23, you can
briefly climb the hillside by a track
delimited by rocks, increasingly
obtaining better sights of the valley.
Take into consideration if weather
conditions get worst or if you will
require a sheltered place, because at
400 meters from the last guidepost
you will pass across a forest, an ideal
place to shelter. Otherwise, continue
downwards, and short after you will
arrive to a lagoon surrounded by
centenary Coigües and Lengas
providing the landscape with a
peculiar beauty.
From the lagoon, walk up by the clear
track and continue through the forest
for about 200 meters until you reach
another interesting mirador of this
route, corresponding to Guidepost Nr.
24, with a great panoramic view of
the Serrano River.
The Serrano River is part of one of the
main hydrographic river basins in the
region. It originates in Toro Lake and
flows in Fiordo de Última Esperanza.
It has a 7350 km2 basin, is 38
kilometers long and has a flow
volume of 61 m3/sec on the upper
part. Its main affluent is the Grey River,
in addition to the course of the Paine
River that flows in the Pehoe Lake and
Toro Lake, respectively. It has a pluvial
feeding system with snow
contributions in summer. Due to its
clean waters, this river is well known
by the fishing of Brown Trout and
Rainbow Trout, which weights range
between 2 to 3 kilograms.
From Guidepost Nr. 24, continue
downwards, at a few meters you will
enter a forest of shrubby young forest,
and then find a branching of the
track. Take your right thinking that
in a few minutes more you will meet
abreast a beautiful lagoon and a few
meters beyond(farther), taking the
left bank, the Guidepost Nr. 25.
Very soon you will complete the
Route and will access to a place
where you could spend the night. In
this lagoon, take a breath and recover
energy for the last kilometers.
Restarting our tour, take the path that
continues the riverbed of the lagoon
with west direction. Do not get away
from the road. Continue then until
reaching a clear zone dominated by
an interesting adult wood of Lenga,
which marks the direction to be
followed through an open track that
allows your passing through thickets
until a new path bifurcation. Take the
path at your right (the other one has
been traditionally used by muleteers).
In this part of the road, although not
at sight, important archaeological
vestiges - such as lithic workshops -
have been found, remarking the
ancestral occupation of the land by
native people in these latitudes.
Continuing our trek towards the west
it will begin a short span of steep
raises. Once above up we will walk
along a relatively flat path bordering
always on the hillside of the hill and
with spectacular conference of the
towers. We go direct towards the last
milestone of our trek. We begin now
the decrease across a fingerprint from
where it will be possible to spy to
fullness the zone of services out of the
National Park Tower of the Paine, the
Highland river and the area of
administration of the properly such
park. A bit later on you will intercept
the way. A table of information and
a panel of Welcome indicate us that
we have come to the Guidepost Nr
26, Congratulations! You have
finished the route. Through the road
you can access the services zone and
have a deserved rest and also reflect
on the road run and the natural
wonders appreciated in these 45 km
of watching, learning and adventure
through the Patagonia.
===The Milodón Cave===
Milodón Cave is now a reference
point and a must-see destination to
travelers visiting chilean Patagonia.
Located 24 km north the city of Puerto
Natales, it is currently lodged by the
189.5 hectares that make up
MILODÓN CAVE NATURAL
M O N U M E N T. T h i s N a t u r a l
Monument is one of the three existing
in the Region of Magallanes and is
the most important and more visited
by far it received over 52,000 visitors
only in 2005, among whom 55% were
foreigners.
As a Unit, it was created in 1978 being
thus incorporated to the State
Protected Area System under
CONAFs management.
DISCOVERY OF THE CAVE:
Hermann Eberhard, German colonist
who had settled in the surroundings
in 1893, visited in 1895, accompanied
by other people, a huge grotto or cave
that caught their attention by the
east, opening to the western hillside
of Benítez hill (51º36 S - 72º41 O).
This huge 30 meter high and 80 meter
wide cave, located around 160 meters
above the sea level, is over 200 meters
long.
On February 1895, the visitors found
a piece of dry skin that was semi-
buried on the dusty soil. When they
took it out, they all realized they had
never seen such a thing before,
considering that a number of little
bones were located above the hairs.
Size of this piece of skin was around
1.50 x 1.00 meter. They also found an
apparently incomplete human
skeleton next to the piece of skin.
The piece of skin was taken to the near
Estate Consuelo, where it was hung
and caught the attention of
whomever visited the district of
Ultima Esperanza through this Estate-
Port. Among the large number of
people who visited the cave, we can
highlight the Swedish geologist Otto
Nordenskjold who was then, in 1896,
directing scientific works conducted
in Magallanes by an expedition from
his country. In sum, Nordenskjold
concluded that the remains found
would correspond to an already
extinct animal that he called
Neomylodon listai and that could
have lived in recent times and be
contemporaneous to human beings.
The Swedish scientist was followed
by a huge number of naturalists,
researchers, and study practitioners
from many countries who are still
making their best efforts to unveil this
mystery, an interesting fact that has
not been extinguished by the passage
of years.
CONCLUSIONS TO THE DATE:
Vestiges found correspond to a very
big herbivore that disappeared late
the Pleistocene (8,000 to 10,000 years
BP). Scientific interest grew even more
when recognized that primitive
Patagonian man lived in the area,
whose date would go back to around
12,000 years BP. These beings known
as Paleoindians were land hunters
who traveled into the fiord zone.
In addition, the Milodón was a
teethed and plantigrade mammal. It
would have walked on all fours or on
its two rear legs being supported by
its strong tail.
SCIENTIFIC RELEVANCE
CONNECTED TO THE NATURAL
MONUMENT:
Researchers have made efforts for
over one century both in the main
cave and in minor caves, as well as in
the number of eaves located in the
area, reason why this sector is
recognized as the best known and
documented group of deposits in
Chile and South-America with regard
to primitive human settlement and
natural life of that time.
These works and vestige findings
have thus demonstrated presence in
this end of Patagonia of other
representatives of extinct fauna, such
as, Saber-toothed Tiger (Smilodon
sp.); Big Camelid (Macchauchenia);
Big Bear (Arctodus pamparum); Big
Fox (Dusicyon avus).
ORIGIN OF THE CAVE:
The cave has changed very little from
the times of primitive human
presence and Milodón itself, only
minor rock detachments and slightly
bigger landslides, which are also very
old.
Confirmation of existence of a big
paleolake called paleolake of Ultima
Esperanza, that existed around
12,500 years BP, a key element for
generation of proper environmental
conditions for early human
settlement, has allowed to clarify
many doubts and to ascertain that
Milodón Cave is a clear evidence of a
lutite rocky stratum decomposition
process, located below conglomerate
level. This cave formation action was
assisted by permanent whipping
action of Paleolake of Ultima
Esperanza water, that subsequently
suffered its sudden emptying, but that
previously carved and shaped current
landscape.
==Recommendations==
Before departure it is necessary to bring the
following elements:
· Clothes including raincoat and thermal
gear for greater safety and comfort,
considering that routes are frequently
under strong wind and low temperature
conditions.
· First aid kit.
· UV protection cream and glasses.
· Map of the route and watch to calculate
times.
· Bags to keep wastes.
Basic elements:
· Be previously informed about the
meteorological conditions for a better
planning of your visit.
· Take the tour informed and read the
guide before beginning each segment. In
order to achieve an easier walking, the
trail have different types of information,
from signs with written information when
have been possible to do it, to color
ribbons on trees and trail boundaries,
made of stones and wooden sticks.
· Consider seasonal variations that could
partly alter floristic characteristics and
access to water as mentioned in this
topoguide.
· Pay special attention to the wet and
slippery rocks.
· Consider fluctuations in displacement
times according to physical status and
load transported. Remember that
sections in the route with extended
ascents require good physical conditions.
· Do not visit the route in Winter, except for
skilled people with previous training for
extreme weather conditions.
· Special places, with information and
facilities, must be used for entrance and
exit to the trail. Visitors should walk just
on it. Do not separate from the route.
· Do not remove or alter elements of the
heritage route.
· Do not hunt or disturb native fauna.
· Do not remove species of native flora.
· Do not leave garbage on the route, bring
it with you.
· Camp in authorized sites only.
· Do not light fires.
· Washing of dishes and clothes as well as
personal cleaning, must be done with
biodegradable soap and at least at 60
meters from water sources.
{{Topoguide|29}}
==Route in Google Earth==
==Expected time==
*[[Media:.kmz|Route of...]]
{{Download waypoints}}
{{Trekking Chile}}
{{Rutas Patrimoniales english}}
==Season==
==Location==
Chile Paths Heritage Route Milodón:
Patagonia in the foothill of the Paine
massif
locates immediately to the south of the
large massif of El Paine, going through
west costs of Porteño Lake and Toro Lake
until the Serrano River, in the east end of
Campo de Hielo Sur. At 47 kilometers to
the north of the city of Puerto Natales, next
to Milodón cave, the start of this heritage
route, is the door of the south access to
Torres del Paine National Park, parallel to
the new vehicular road, an alternative for
hiking lovers who want to directly know
austral landscapes and most outstanding
guideposts of this heritage route.
==Access==
To access the route from Puerto Natales,
take the route to Cerro Castillo continuing
by this way for 17 kilometers of the paved
road, where you will find the vehicular
access to the west towards the Milodón
cave. Continue by this second way for 9
kilometers and you will arrive to CONAFs
( National Forestal Corporation )
information and administration center
which is the access to the Natural
Monument of Milodon Cave with 189
hectares. Continue for another 20
kilometers by the main road. At 600 meters
to north direction from the limit between
the district of Natales and Torres del Paine,
by the west side of the route, you will arrive
to the parking lot and start of this route.
To Magellan's region and Antarctic Chilean
one can accede terrestrial route, airway and
sea route. The flights arrive from Santiago,
the capital of Chile and Port Montt at the
Punta Arenas city. The terrestrial access is
realized crossing the Argentine territory,
existing five frontier(opposite) qualified
steps: Monte Aymond, Rio Don Guillermo,
Casas Viejas, Dorotea and San Sebastián
(in Tierra del Fuego). The maritime access is
realized across the Patagonian channels
from the city of Port Montt. A detail of these
diverse accesses you can consult in
www.sernatur.cl and / or www.patagonia-
chile.com.
===By car===
===Public transport===
==Markers==
This Topoguide is an essential aid for
anybody who wants to travel this
Heritage Route, since it helps user to
link signs on the route to literature,
maps, and images contained in the
Topoguide for each segment of the
tour.
The route is made up by 26 duly
signaled Guideposts of heritage
interest. For better orientation,
duration of the tour and
understanding by visitors, interesting
spots have been divided into four
independent segments.
Signs used in this route are divided
into four types according to their
functions:
Marker post indicating a guidepost
of interest,
Marker post of rout continuity,
Welcome sign and
Interpretative panel
==General description==
Chile Paths Heritage Route Milodón: Patagonia in the foothill of the Paine massif is one of the
most extraordinary alternatives for walking and trekking fans, who do not want to visit Torres
del Paine National Park only by its new south access, but also typical austral latitude ecosystems
perfectly complemented by a wide range of panoramic views of one of the most interesting
zones of Chilean Patagonia Paine cordillera.
This route is opened to walking and ecotourism fans thanks to the contribution made by the
Ministry of National Property through its Heritage Routes program and its regional Secretariat
of Magallanes, from Chile Path program, coordinated by National Environment Commission,
the Chilean Army, Province Government of Natales, that with their professionals and support
staff have not only allowed to provide pedestrian access to such an emblematic site as Torres
del Paine National Park, but also make this guide available to all the citizens, allowing to travel
the route safely and informed.
This is a 45 kilometer walk by the border of Porteño and Toro lakes, crossing an endless number
of rivulets, woods, and prairies until getting to Serrano river. Follow by a track parallel to the
vehicle road that will allow you to access to Torres del Paine National Park -, wolds biosphere
reservation - from the south. This route is an invitation to trekking over Patagonia, next to public
roads.
This tour comprises at least three days of moderate speed walk, not only to travel safe and save
time enough to watch natural life and landscapes that will be discovered over the tour, but also
for the existence of determined camping sites.
==Route description==
This Chile Paths Heritage Route starts
south Porteño lake, at the austral end
of the District of Torres del Paine. Over
its layout, parallel to the public road,
you will visit 26 Guideposts of
heritage interest along the 45
kilometer track connected to the
observation of flora and fauna, water
streams and bodies, and strategic
points as natural miradors providing
the most splendid south panoramic
views of Paine cordillera and Campo
de Hielo Sur glaciers, such as Grey and
Tyndall, with their adjacent lakes and
rivers.
The path has been divided into four
segments:
1.Start to Ventisquero River
2.Ventisquero river to Rincón river
3.Rincón river to El Salto river
4.El Salto river to Serrano river
The first segment is born by
humedales (Riparian habitats) at
the beginning of the route, and ends
at Ventisquero river. This is an
interesting tour for watching wild life
oriented to a general audience, with
no difficulties whatsoever, except
climbing fences, which have been
provided with structures allowing to
overcome them easier, representing
a 6 kilometer extension, and
including 5 Guideposts of interest.
The second segment starts in
Ventisquero river and ends in El
Rincón river. This is a special segment
for wild life watching, but also to visit
a number of miradors of Porteño and
Toro lakes, as well as to observe so
many Macizo del Paine tops. This
segment provides 14 kilometers of track and includes 7 Guideposts of
interest for an audience more
specialized in long walks, with no
difficulty whatsoever.
The third segment starts in Rincón
river and ends in El Salto river. It
corresponds to a 7.2 km segment
allowing to arrive to the service area
by El Salto river, an ideal site to spend
the night and keep walking the day
after.
Fourth segment starts in El Salto river
and ends in Serrano river valley. This
is the segment having the highest
number of natural miradors in
Macizo del Paine (Paine Mountain
Range), and is the longest segment
of the route with its 15 kilometer tour.
For a specialized audience in walks
on rough terrain and exposed to
strong winds, this is an interesting
chance to travel vicinities of Campo
de Hielo Patagónico Sur, with 10
Guideposts of interest.
===First segment===
This Heritage Route starts after
leaving public road in a site allowing
to cross a fence parallel to the road.
There, you will see a welcome sign.
Start walking by an interesting
Ñirres forest (Nothofagus
antarctica), intermingled with
beautiful Calafates (Magellan
Barberry - Berberis buxifolia), a
typical specie of Magallanes region.
By 1895, a German settler, Hermann
Eberhard, who lived near Puerto
Natales, found in these valleys some
pieces of skin of an animal that was
then unknown, the Milodón
(Mylodón darwinii listai). This
herbivore mammal, of the genus of
the gound-sloths, similar to a big
bear, was twice as tall as a human
being. Reasons of this mammal
extinction, 10 to 13 thousands of
years ago, are not yet clear, being
possibly due to hunting by the first
men who lived in the zone, and to
climate changes that altered
vegetation cover of these valleys.
Leaving Milodón steps behind, you
will follow by a well defined track,
passing by the north-east bank of a
riparian habitat. This is where you
will find a beautiful mirador of this
wetland, a recurrent formation in
depressions formed after glacial
recession, and where you may see a
dense cover of southern bulrush
(Scirpus californicus) and dry
cypresses in its surroundings. We are
at Guidepost Nr. 2.
Southern bulrush, pertaining to the
Cyperacean family, develops in
water-saturated environments. This
is a perennial specie, with a very
robust underground stem allowing it
to be anchored to the wetland
developing a net from which long
green cylindrical air stems sprout. At
the stem end, they produce a little
brown ear eaten by birds, while stalks
were used in the past to manufacture
mats.
From Guidepost Nr. 2, keep going for
1.2 kilometers by the border of the
riparian habitat at a short distance
by open lands. A small river will be
flowing by your left, with a shrubby
wood in some places, until reaching
a fence, that you will have to cross. A
flat land of prairies starts here,
connected to an old ranch from
which you may still obtain, at a long
distance and in good weather, the
first views of Macizo del Paine, as well
as evident signs of human
intervention in the valleys.
After crossing the access road to a
booth you will see to your left, travel
around 800 meters of a soft ascension
bound to the north-west until arriving
to Guidepost Nr. 3, by a little rivulet,
obtaining panoramic views of the
unnamed lagoon of Vega Casola to
the east, an interesting water body,
where you can observe black-necked
swans.
At Guidepost Nr. 3, in addition to rest
for a while, you can see the chilco
(Fuchsia magellanica), a truly
beautiful flower specie usually
growing along water streams. This is
an up to 3 meter high perennial shrub
requiring wet soils, rich in organic
matter, properly drained and with
atmospheric humidity.
Its flashy and abundant deep red
flowers may be seen from mid spring
to the autumn.
From guidepost number 3, follow
ahead a short distance until a road
bifurcation. In this area, pay
attention to the main trail, because
a frequent animal crossing had
create multiple trails.
. Go to the left and, a few steps ahead,
you will start going down by the
hillside and cross a rivulet, where you
can observe old Magellan Coigue
(Nothofagus betuloides). We
recommend you to stop here,
Guidepost Nr. 4, for a while and take
a rest in the shadow of these beautiful
trees.
Magellan coigüe is a sub-Antarctic
wood endemic specie which is very
resistant to climate factors, such as,
rain, wind and snow. It grows from
Valdivia to cape Horn with sizes of up
to 25 meters high, of straight trunk
and twisted branches. It flowers in
spring time and its small nut-shaped
fruits ripen at the end of the summer.
Its light-colored wood is usually of
very good quality and resistant,
characteristics that make it
appropriate to be used in
construction and furniture-making,
however, further to the north, in these
latitudes, it is not considered as good.
Digueñes (cup-fungi), also called
Quireñes (Cyttaria spp.,
discomycetes) grow on their
branches on other Nothofagus
species branches too. They are
sphere-shaped and orange-colored
parasite fungi that dominate upper
wood strip and ripen on August,
September, and October.
They have historically been eaten raw
and have been used to manufacture
chicha. However, one must be careful
since those growing on Coigue catch
an unpleasant flavor and may be a
little toxic. Little is known on this
fungus in spite of its consumption.
Some studies have revealed the
presence of compounds with anti-
tumoral properties in Digueñes.
Continuing the tour from Guidepost
Nr. 4, pass by the sector having a less
defined track, a little flooded with
rain, around 170 meters until arriving
to a fence, that you will have to cross.
From this crossing, follow to the left,
slightly climbing up by hillside, being
at all times able to see typical wet
environment vegetation by the clear
track, such as, Nalcas (Gunnera
scombro), in an adult Coigue wood.
Few meters ahead, you will leave the
wood and start travelling by the
mountain side. These are open lands
mostly dominated by chauras
(Pernettya mucronata) and
calafates (Berberis buxifolia).
Keeping elevation by the main track,
you will observe in this segment of the
tour wide panoramic views of the
valley, of Porteño lake, and of such
riparian habitats from the start of the
route.
Pay attention. After going down the
hillside, observe to the left interesting
witnesses of glacial erosion in rocky
walls, denoted by furrows created by
ice flowing in ancient times.
Once you are back in flat lands, pass
by a flooded soil sector, continuing
then parallel to public road until
crossing a fence again. From this last
crossing, consider 800 meters of tour
to the north-west until seeing a
beautiful waterfall to your left,
connected to Ventisquero river. Few
meters later, and heading to the east,
you will arrive to a camping zone and
public road, after which you will cross
this river by a vehicle bridge,
Guidepost Nr 5.
This place, besides its resting role,
have an importance, because it is one
of the best know Cerro Tenerifes and
Cordillera Prat access point. The Cerro
Tenerife zone represents one of the
most important area for the tourism
development, basically, ought to the
great number of mountain activities
that it is possible to practice in that
space.
===Second Segment===
Immediately after passing by the
vehicle bridge allowing to cross
Ventisquero river, cross the fence,
always following the track by the
western strip, parallel to the public
road. Start of this second segment is
signaled and identified with an
interpretative table. The track is here
relatively close to the vehicle road
and usually corresponds to muddy
lands, although as you may see
works have been done to make the
tour easier. Heading north, you will
get to a clear strip among a dense
wood until arriving to a rustic gate.
Here, you may see a typical Liquen of
Nothofagus woods, the so-called
beard of mount beard (Usnea
barbata), which is used to dye wool
and for its antibiotic properties.
After passing the rustic gate, head
north around 500 meters until
arriving to some prairies where
beautiful views of Macizo del Paine
may be seen in sunny days. By a little
pond, you will find Guidepost Nr. 6,
the first mirador of this route,
providing majestic views of this
mountain range.
Macizo del Paine (Paine Mountain
Range) is a mountain range
dominated by granite towers and by
the grandiose Paine Grande, topped
by glaciers and surrounded by
emerald, turquoise, and deep blue-
colored lakes,. Surrounding area has
been designated World Biosphere
Reserve, as well as being a National
Park.
Cerro Paine Grande (that stands for
blue in Tehuelche language), with
3,050 m.a.s.l., is the highest hill in the
Province of Ultima Esperanza. Its first
ascension was in 1957 by the
legendary Italian expedition led by
Guido Monzino, and the second was
only in year 2000, by the Italian
Rolando Garibotti and the French
Bruno Sourac.
From Guidepost Nr. 6, keep going for
around 1,000 meters by the road until
arriving to the access road to the
ranch, where you will have to cross
the wooden fence. Then, continue to
the north crossing another fence and
follow a well defined track by open
lands, dominated by dense chauras
and calafates. You will start seeing
Porteño lake waters immediately to
the east until finding a small rivulet,
corresponding to Guidepost Nr. 7, an
ideal site to obtain a general
panoramic view of this lagoon water
body and of typical Patagonian
flower species, such as, notro
(Embothrium coccineum).
Just like coigüe, notro is endemic from
sub-Antarctic woods. It grows in
sandy, stony and wet soils, from the
sea level to 400 m.a.s.l. in these
latitudes. It is a perennial tree of flashy
light red asymmetric, tube-shaped,
and long leaves. In other countries, it
is called Fire Bush due to its
flowering, which takes place in Chile
from September to January. Its fruit,
a woody follicle, is open when ripen
in autumn.
Pale pink-colored wood has a vein
which is very appreciated in furniture-
making industry. Both its bark and
leaves are believed to have medicinal
properties to cure dental neuralgia
and improve wound healing. Notro
leaf and bark infusion to which a
sugar-coated red-hot coal is added
heals stomach ache.
From Guidepost Nr. 7, walk around the
hillside by a clear track while you will
encounter big fallen trunks, the
manifestation of old fires that
destroyed virgin woods which covered
most of these lands.
1.2 kilometers to the north, after
crossing a small water stream, you will
find a rivulet coming from a waterfall
that may be observed around 300
meters to the west. This stream, just
like other small rivulets, disappears
during dry periods, reason why water
should be taken only from rivers or
streams mentioned in this guide.
As well as watching Tenerife hill at the
south-west sector, by the rivulet
mentioned above, we recommend to
stop for a while to rest and admire
native flora existing in this site,
Guidepost Nr. 8.
We can mention Magellan Barberry
typical character and color beauty.
This is a 2 to 3 meter high thorny
shrub that grows in open lands on
the banks of water courses and in
wood borders. It has a typical yellow
flower and provided eatable bright
black-colored berries, mostly used in
fine marmalades, jellies and syrups,
as well as having a natural coloring
agent used in food industry. Popular
medicine attributes healing
properties to this specie, such as,
antidiarrheal and antiseptic.
Leaving Guidepost Nr 8 behind, a
wide panoramic view of Porteño lake
appears a few meters later. Be careful
to travel by the main track, which less
from 1 kilometer from previous
guidepost, goes down the hillside
until arriving to the valley at the level
of Porteño lake, always parallel to the
vehicle road heading north.
You will get to a quite stream after
passing by an old fence, which is
another alternative to take a break
in this walk and admire Tenerife hill,
of 1,670 m.a.s.l., providing - with its
conic shape - to those who climb it
up panoramic views to Campo de
Hielo Patagónico Sur, Paine
Cordillera, Prat Cordillera, and a
number of surrounding lakes and
woods.
It was named out of the first Spanish
settlers (Casola and San Román
Families) who arrived to the sector
from Canary Islands, among which is
Tenerife.
Its first ascension goes back to 1937
by the Argentinean Andes mountain
climber from Santa Fe, Dr. Gustavo
A. Foster. Many climbers have been
there since then, among whom we
can particularly mention the
mountain climbers Italian engineers
who worked in the installation of
Coal Deposit Río Turbio by the 50s.
Following the path you will arrive to
guidepost 9. Here you will find the
vehicle road, which you should take
for force majeure reasons. Continue
through this way with precaution
and always by its left sidewalk for
approximately 1,000 m to north until
you take the path again. The road
you are currently walking through is
a recent work and was constructed
to decrease distances between the
city of Puerto Natales and the Torres
del Paine National Park by the
Military Corp of Work, a unit of
engineers and technicians of the
Army of Chile. These men have
worked even under very rough
weather conditions to construct this
road and facilitate access of people
to these so important natural
scenarios throughout the world.
In order of identify, our return to the
trail, at the left you will find signs and
a ladder on a fence. For
approximately 1,000 m you will
continue parallel to road and at a few
meters thereof you will go inside
through hillsides and streams of
these small hills with northeast
direction. We are getting close to
Guidepost Nr 10.
When you go inside through the
small stream that allows crossing
these hills at your left you will see that
surrounding hillsides are very
irregular. Originated from
sedimentary rocks (rocks forming
from pieces and materials, minerals
and organic elements, coming from
decomposition and deposit of other
materials), these hills have
experienced a series of fractures,
overturns and slidings of large blocks
of rocks forming them from high to
low zones. The above has generated
a stepped and abrupt landscape with
zones of diverse vegetation
development: ripe forests, young
forests, thickets, only prairie and
areas with naked rock. When leaving
the stream, you will have a splendid
view of the Tenerife hill and as
background Macizo del Paine to the
north. We are in Guidepost Nr 10.
During the next 1,500 m,
approximately, you should climb and
go down slopes between coigües,
ñirres (Nothofagus antarctica),
Chaura (Gaultheria mucrata) and
some Notros. In this part, path is clear,
you can walk safe. While you keep
walking, you will find a small brook.
Refill your canteen, since you will not
find water until you arrive to Rincón
River, approximately at about 3,000
meters ahead.
Continuing with the tour, the path
passes by a zone with a thin
vegetable layer, with the presence
ñirres (Nothofagus antarctica),
Notro (Embothrium coccineum)
and coigüe (Nothofagus
betuloides) young forests. Go ahead
and you will find a beautiful and little
wetland with a pond in its center.
Good view to Tenerife hill (1,670
m.a.s.l.) and of some tourism cabins
located by El Rincón river outlet.
Porteño lake will always flow to your
right and as a background highest
peaks of Macizo del Paine which may
be seen over near hills.
Following the path, you will start
climbing down until arriving to a
place where track changes its
direction dramatically bound to the
West. A segment of permanent
climbing up is here showing its first
signs.
30 meters later, you will find a table-
shaped rock with its 5 meter inclined
cover, that you will have to cross after
climbing up one step. The path, that
is in general wide and well defined in
this sector, will make you climb for
around 150 meters until finding
yourself soon within an adult and
healthy forest surrounded by ñirres
and Coigues. You will have to pass by
two natural stairs in the next 200
meters, and walk now by a soft, but
dry surface. Helechos and some
Coicopihues (Philesia magellanica)
will start showing up. Your attention
will also be caught by a robust coigüe
(Nothofagus betuloides) with over a
meter diameter. Now, path gradient
is higher and is zigzagging in such a
way that you will find yourself
heading south more than once. You
will be joined by beautiful tall shrubs
by both sides of the route, among
which we can mention: siete camisas
(Escallonia rubra), calafates
(Berberis buxifolia), romerillo
(Chiliotrichum diffusum), and
chauras (Pernettya mucronata).
Walking now by flat land, you will
find a continuity marker post, having
Porteño lake to your right. This
around 20 km² lake, discharges its
water into Maravilla lake, a water
body that cannot be seen from this
route.
Looking to the north, you may watch
Porteño lake final portion by the
isthmus that separates it from Toro
lake. This sector gives rise to Peninsula
del Toro, a wide section of El
Complejo Ranch, with over 5,000
hectares of unmatchable cattle-
breeding and tourism aptitude. Note
that this ranch houses is a few
Mayten forest (Maytenus boaria) in
Magallanes Region.
The path is always wide and well
defined, making you easier to
distinguish between a track among
the little wood and the shrubs. After
walking another 200 meters, path
surface becomes softer for being
made up leaf dirt. Then, you will start
walking up by rocky ground and by
sharp naked rock during several
segments. 100 meters ahead, you will
find the highest point and
unmatchable natural Atalaya with
beautiful panoramic views,
corresponding to Guidepost Nr. 11.
Now, you may appreciate the
majestic south face of Tenerife hill
(1,670 m.a.s.l.) at your back. Macizo
del Paine is the most grandiose by the
north and dominates the entire zone
highlighting Cuernos del Paine (2,600
m.a.s.l.) and mount Almirante Nieto
(2,670 m.a.s.l.). To the west and from
north to south, we can see Castillo hill
(1,250 m.a.s.l.), Campana hill (1,220
m.a.s.l.), Ventana hill (1,180 m.a.s.l.),
and Mocho hill to the south-east
(1,350 m.a.s.l.) as part of the sierra
Manuel Señoret. Keep going by the
path, always on naked rock and
careful to its continuity, since it is not
that clear. Be careful to start climbing
down through the rocks since wind
could be dangerous.
Few meters later, the route clearly
starts to climb down looking for
Rincón river eastern bank. Path is
clear here and 250 meters ahead, you
will pass by a rustic handrail that
crosses an old road driving to a
quarry. Landscape is always beautiful
with Macizo del Paine as a
background. You will then find a new
continuity marker post located
always to your right.
The path is always wide and clear,
crossing sectors covered by low
shrubs and thickets. Walk in the same
direction and 300 meters ahead, you
will find the equestrian path junction
that drives to a ranch spot that
cannot be seen from here.
Turn to the right and follow the
Rincón River, sounding at your left.
From the last junction, walk around
500 meters until finally getting to a
door. A ladder has been built in one
side to cross the fence and arrive to
the vehicle road and the bridge on
Rincón river. If you cross the door, do
not forget to leave it closed; these are
good manners which are always
appreciated in Patagonia.
Cross Rincón bridge and continue by
the vehicle road around 150 meters
until arriving to Guidepost Nr. 12,
corresponding to the entrance to the
path and start of the third segment
of this route.
===Third Segment===
To take the track again, after crossing
the bridge, observe the interpretative
panel installed at one side of the road
and that announces the third
segment. You will walk on a land
covered with thicket roots, always
keeping your position at the west side
of the vehicular road.
After crossing, a few steps ahead
there is a very thin water current. You
should take a general direction to the
north. During about 400 meters you
will move forward through a forest
of beautiful young forest of Antarctic
Beech; the surface is now a beautiful
firm-grass prairie. Besides increasing
height, you will enter a forest of leafy
and ripe Coigües, crossing again a
rivulet. Although there is a footbridge,
you should take some precautions to
cross it. Take advantage to drink
water and supply with it.
Begin to enjoy the appearance of
the first Guaitecas cypresses
(Pilgerodendron uvifera) you will
be finding on your way.
Although the track continues through
the rocky edge it is easily predictable.
At both flanks you will find the
presence of cypresses associated to
Coigües (Nothofagus betuloides).
After moving forward for about three
hundred meters you will be entering
in a forest of high Fire Bushed and
Coigües; in spite the track is no longer
in good conditions, it is clearly
signaled, which will enable walking
without difficulties. A large number
of coicopihues (Philesia
magellanica) cover the ground,
providing great beauty to the
environment, depending on the
season of your visit. A few meters
ahead and next to a short but steep
slope you will find a beautiful sight
of Tenerife Hill (1.670m.a.s.l.) which
shows its northern face practically
devoided of vegetation and in strong
contrast to highly forested hillsides
we saw in the north-east; these are
indisputable signs of the dominant
winds of the region favoring life in
south-east hillsides. Seize this
opportunity to immortalize this
moment with a couple of photos.
Continue in north direction. You will
perceive the vehicular road at your
right hand practically during all your
way at no more than 200 meters. You
will walk on rocks and sometimes on
pillows of Líquenes. You will see a
huge dump of dry commodities from
recent construction labors of the new
road. You should displace carefully
on these huge stones. In a low-lying
land you will face some difficulties to
walk through some 200 meters
between bushes and high pines. After
this reef you will pass to another
sector where you will walk
comfortably. The dump will be
accompanying you for about 200
meters at your right. Concentrate on
the sight you have on your left where
you will watch a beautiful mountain
hillside almost within hands reach.
Be careful when crossing a group of
rocks existing in that place, which are
risky because of their humidity.
Continuing with the tour by the right
side, you can observe a large forest
of Guaitecas Cypresses that has
favored its development as it locates
on a peat surface. Do not doubt to
come close and watch this particular
natural system. You will observe how
this tree species develops solely in
flooded zones, feel its special aroma
and confirm how the path of a big
fire in 1925 burnt trunks. Now, 80
years later, cypresses show their new
sprouts, denoting the regeneration
of forest in these peat banks.
Peat bank corresponds to
heterogenic soils constituted by
decomposed vegetal material and
minerals accumulated through the
years. Wrong drainage conditions
after retrocession of ice, in cold and
rainy climates favor this type of
peculiar formations.
Most representative species of peat
bank areas are musgo de turbera
(Spagnum magellanicum),
gramíneas, cyperáceas, and species
on cushions mixing with each other.
It must be noticed that the high
content of peat organic matter allows
it is an excellent humus supplier,
providing vigor to plants and
vegetables and providing higher
extension of roots. This has
encouraged its use as fertilizer in
seedlings and greenhouses.
Continue by the east edge of this peat
bank and then enter the adult forest.
Consider a bit more than 150 meters
in the wood until you arrive to a
stream, corresponding to Guidepost
Nr. 13, which can be crossed with
precaution passing by bridged
constructed thereto. This is an
excellent site protected from strong
winds.
Next to the stream, take the
advantage to admire an interesting
wood of Coigües, partially intermixed
with Canelo, representing what some
day in the past were ripe forests in
these humid valleys.
From Guidepost Nr. 13, continue in a
north-west direction for about 300
meters across the forest and then get
out of it. Always continuing by the
main track, continue until reaching
a site where land opens facing the
south end of a riparian habitat with
an interesting cypress bank, cross it.
This crossing has been enabled with
footbridges and it will lead you to the
other end of the wetland or riparian
habitat. We are in Guidepost Nr. 14,
a beautiful site to watch this
protected native specie.
Ciprés de las guaitecas
(Pilgerodendron uvifera), a native
tree specie from the south cone, most
austral representative of Coniferae,
has leaves laid out in scale position
very similar to alerce (Fitzroya
cupressoides) appearance, but
arranged in pairs in one same point
forming a cross.
Generally, it is found in small size, but
in favorable conditions it can reach
up to 40 meters height and 1 meter
of trunk diameter. The bark looks like
the Larch but it is not reddish, forming
partly pure woods.
In these valleys, the Guaitecas Cypress
is present in very restrained areas due
to the extraction of its timber and
fires, reason why it does not longer
form pure woods but rather it
associates with Antarctic Beeches
and Coigüe of Magallanes.
From Guidepost Nr. 14, cross this
same riparian habitat in a segment
not higher than 100 meters which has
also been intervened to improve
conditions of hiking. From the north
end of riparian habitat, walk up the
partly rocky hillside gradually with
north-west direction.
Consider no more than 800 meters of
steep ascent by rocky hillsides
combined with thickets on lands with
less marked track. In consequence,
you should be a little more aware in
the direction to be followed. Take
general north-west direction until
beginning a short descent by the
hillside, where splendid panoramic
views open to Macizo del Paine and
Toro Lake in all their extension,
corresponding to Guidepost Nr. 15, a
site exposed to strong winds reason
why you should have maximum
precaution to possible falls or
hypothermia.
Toro Lake with a number of
peninsulas and small bays is the
largest lake of the region. It has an
extension of 202 square kilometers
and 320 meters depth. Its crystalline
waters offer great conditions for sport
fishing with the presence of brown
trout and rainbow trout.
From Guidepost Nr. 15, follow
direction to the north for 400 meters
to arrive to a good benchmark in this
part of the road: A natural bridge of
rocks over a stream which will allow
you to cross and follow across open
lands covered by dense thickets and
disperse Fire Bushes.
From the previous natural rock
bridge, calculate another 400 meters
to the north until you reach to a
stream with a rivulet that provides
water supply.
From the rivulet continue with equal
direction for a little more than half
kilometer and you will find an old
fence, cross it watching at your left
side a small waterfall of El Santo
River, which you will cross later. From
the old fence, star a small descent
until finding a riparian habitat that
you will see from the distance.
Cross the riparian habitat or wetland
and you will enter a wood
immediately. At a few meters inside
this wood of Coigües and Lengas
(Nothofagus pumilio) you should
cross El Santo River, a crossing
corresponding to Guidepost Nr. 16,
an ideal place to spend the night in a
service area and continue walking
across the last segment of this road
the day after.
===Fourth Segment===
Before starting this new segment, do
not forget to bring a good supply of
drinking water (minimum 2 liters per
person) because, depending on the
season of the year, it could be your
last chance to obtain it before arriving
to the Serrano River sector, finish of
this heritage road.
From El Salto River, continue climbing
the hillside slightly changing direction
to the north-east until you cross a
fence. At a short distance, you will
observe a small lagoon to east
direction going downwards by the
hillside until reaching Guidepost Nr.
17, an ideal place to observe one of
the most representative tree species
in these ecosystems.
The endemic sauco (Pseudopanax
laetevirens ) of sub Antarctic forests,
grows up to 1,300 m.a.s.l., although
in these latitudes it hardly grows more
than 50 m.a.s.l. in humid and forest
zones or on banks of water courses.
This tree with a growth of up to 8
meters height has a grayish and
smooth trunk. It characterizes for its
blue fruits at the end of the summer
giving an unequal coloring.
From Guidepost Nr. 17 continue the
road to north-east direction where
you will find at a short distance a
small lagoon. When you cross this
water body completely, it flows to
north-west, and climbing by the rocky
hillside at no more than 400 meters
you will arrive to a sector, that
depending on the season of the year,
is slightly water-flooded. Be extremely
careful when crossing these humid
lands, and then continue by sharp
rocks with extraordinary panoramic
views for about 200 meters to the
north-west. After a short descent, you
will enter a Lenga coppice and
immediately after you will arrive to a
rivulet that during dry seasons does
not contribute waters, reason why
you should take a water provision
before in El Santo River.
Continue through the same direction
going round the edge of a wood of
Coigües and Fire Bushes not going
down the stream until arriving to an
interesting forest of canelo Trees,
corresponding to Guidepost Nr. 18.
The canelo (Drimys winteri) locates
in swampy lands and next to rivers
and streams between the Limarí River
by the north and Cabo de Hornos by
the south at no more than 1,200
m.a.s.l.. The trunk is straight and
cylindrical, reaches about 30 meters
height up to one meter of diameter.
Bark is smooth, light gray, thick and
soft.
Sacred tree for the Mapuche people.
They adore, venerate, and assign
magic properties to it.
Timber of canelo is very attractive,
reason why it is used in construction,
furniture and manufacture of musical
instruments. It is not useful as fuel as
when it burns it generates stinging
smoke.
In the past, canelo was used to fight
scurvy as it was rich in Vitamin C. For
its tannins, essence oils, antibacterial
substances, and iron and calcium
salts, it is used in applications to clean
wounds and against rheumatism,
stomach affections, throat pain,
mange, tinea and even it has been
discovered that it has properties in the
treatment against cancer.
After admiring these wonderful
species and their qualities, and taking
the tour again from Guidepost Nr. 18,
you will enter a mixed wood of Coigüe
and canelo Trees. Consider about 600
meters of steep climbing, in part they
are step-shaped naked rocks,
abundant thicket and adult wood, so
you will have to be specially
concentrated while you walk up.
Although this climbing will demand
some effort, do not forget the
innumerable sites that allow to
delight with wide panoramic sights
that give a breath during this ascent.
Consistently with the finish of ascents,
at a few meters more to north-west
direction, already upon descent, you
will reach Guidepost Nr. 19, an
extraordinary mirador with more
than 180º of vision. We recommend
a brief break and take some unequal
panoramic pictures. Do not forget
that in this place as in many other
exposed sites of this road, strong
winds are recurrent. Frequently, they
reach speeds higher than 35 knots,
making walking difficult. If you face
them, remember that you are in one
of the most atmospherically unstable
zones of the planet that generate
these peculiar phenomena and
undoubtedly require that you equip
properly with wind-resistant jackets
and thermal clothes for these
latitudes.
From Guidepost Nr. 19, walk about
300 meters, always in north-west
direction until you see the first views
from the distance of Grey Glacier.
Consider that you are in open lands
partially covered by thickets and with
coppice of young forests, where the
track is less precise. However, in less
than half an hour you will be forced
to cross a fence going downwards the
mountain hillside. Already in the low
part of the valley, you will take a track
fairly clear again direct to north
direction and pass across an
interesting community of Fire Bushes.
Approximately 200 meters ahead,
after passing a rock step of about 5
meters height in the middle of the
descent of open lands, you will arrive
to Guidepost Nr. 20, a preferred site
for those who enjoy with special
attention, the tracks left on the rocks
some day in the past by the path of
huge ice mass and their abrasive
power. They are glaciers of Campo de
Hielo Patagónico Sur, particularly,
Tyndall and Grey glaciers, which with
their gradual quaternary retrocessions
left these marks uncovered. They are
real lines in furrows generated by their
constant transport of detritus in
permanent crash with the mother
rock.
From Guidepost Nr. 20, always going
downwards by the clear track, at 800
meters more to north direction from
the last guidepost of interest, you
could see a lagoon on your right side.
Try to take your right hand in the next
branching, entering into a riparian
habitat with east direction. There is a
long footbridge thereon which name
is Puente Toro. Certainly it will
facilitate your pass. Pay special
attention to take your right again,
once you have crossed the wetland
from where you can continue your
tour when getting near the public
road, but without going through it.
Continue the tour, walking
downwards across open lands,
crossing a small lagoon around its
south edge. Go around the edge of this
beautiful water body through a clear
track until you arrive to a mirador,
ideal for watching the bird fauna
typical in these environments and that
correspond to Guidepost Nr. 21. One
again, if there is strongly windy day,
take the necessary precautions.
In this site, we can watch, among
other species of birds, the Spectacled
Duck (Speculanas specularis), that
can be observed from Aconcagua to
Magallanes in rivers and lagoons of
woody zones.
It has dark brown head and rear neck
with large white spots around the eyes
and front neck. This beautiful specie
is generally in torrential rivers and
forested lagoons of woody zones.
They generally look for pools, ponds
or puddles, where they are observed
in couples or small family groups.
Omnivores, they find food on the edge
of rivers or lagoons, avoiding to get
deep inside the open field.
They nest in pastured islets and build
a voluminous nest coated with
plumule, covering it with grass and
normally laying between 5 and 7
eggs.
From Guidepost Nr. 21 continue until
the north end of the lagoon and from
there go round the edge of the wood
of Antarctic Beeches. There you will
contemplate silence, the beauty of the
singing of a number of bird species
wondering in the wood, among them,
the Andean Tapaculo (Currín del Sur
- Scytalopus magellanicus) and the
Thorn-tailed Rayadito (Aphrastura
spinicauda). Follow the well-marked
track, in a few minutes you will cross
a small rivulet where you can supply
with water, but, do not be confident,
because in dry seasons this rivulet
dries and will force you to supply with
water from El Santo River during all
this last segment.
From this small rivulet, walk up by a
small perron that will lead you to the
east. Short after, you will arrive to an
open sector, having a new chance to
see interesting sights of the
surrounding places.
Continue going downwards the
hillside gradually and soon you will
arrive to a dump of rocky materials
generated by the construction of the
vehicular road to the Serrano River.
Cross this dump by a segment of
something more than 100 meters
to north-west direction.
After passing a small forest in clear
track, you will start to climb by open
lands with abundant Chaura and
where panoramic sights of Macizo
del Paine, Grey Glacier and Toro
Lake are predominant. This will
undoubtedly draw the attention of
any tourist. At the end of the ascent,
you will find Guidepost Nr. 22,
corresponding to the sixth mirador
of this road, an ideal place to
contemplate the last views of
Macizo del Paine and Toro Lake too.
In this part of the tour, due to the
exposure to strong winds coming
from Campo Hielo Sur, we
recommend to wear wind-resistant
and thermal clothes appropriate for
these austral latitudes.
From Guidepost Nr. 22, the track
goes downwards smoothly by the
hillside for about 200 meters until
seeing for the first time in this route,
the majestic Serrano River. Continue
the tour leading to the west,
crossing 3 small streams
surrounded by beautiful coppices,
sites appropriate for short breaks
and that will protect you from
strong winds.
After crossing the third stream, you
will arrive to a new mirador,
Guidepost Nr 23, number seven in
this route, where, under weather
conditions with good visibility, you
will be allowed to observe the Grey
glacier and lake, as well as the valley
of the Serrano River, which is
coming closer. This is a clear
announcement that we are getting
near the final part of this heritage
route.
From Guidepost Nr. 23, you can
briefly climb the hillside by a track
delimited by rocks, increasingly
obtaining better sights of the valley.
Take into consideration if weather
conditions get worst or if you will
require a sheltered place, because at
400 meters from the last guidepost
you will pass across a forest, an ideal
place to shelter. Otherwise, continue
downwards, and short after you will
arrive to a lagoon surrounded by
centenary Coigües and Lengas
providing the landscape with a
peculiar beauty.
From the lagoon, walk up by the clear
track and continue through the forest
for about 200 meters until you reach
another interesting mirador of this
route, corresponding to Guidepost Nr.
24, with a great panoramic view of
the Serrano River.
The Serrano River is part of one of the
main hydrographic river basins in the
region. It originates in Toro Lake and
flows in Fiordo de Última Esperanza.
It has a 7350 km2 basin, is 38
kilometers long and has a flow
volume of 61 m3/sec on the upper
part. Its main affluent is the Grey River,
in addition to the course of the Paine
River that flows in the Pehoe Lake and
Toro Lake, respectively. It has a pluvial
feeding system with snow
contributions in summer. Due to its
clean waters, this river is well known
by the fishing of Brown Trout and
Rainbow Trout, which weights range
between 2 to 3 kilograms.
From Guidepost Nr. 24, continue
downwards, at a few meters you will
enter a forest of shrubby young forest,
and then find a branching of the
track. Take your right thinking that
in a few minutes more you will meet
abreast a beautiful lagoon and a few
meters beyond(farther), taking the
left bank, the Guidepost Nr. 25.
Very soon you will complete the
Route and will access to a place
where you could spend the night. In
this lagoon, take a breath and recover
energy for the last kilometers.
Restarting our tour, take the path that
continues the riverbed of the lagoon
with west direction. Do not get away
from the road. Continue then until
reaching a clear zone dominated by
an interesting adult wood of Lenga,
which marks the direction to be
followed through an open track that
allows your passing through thickets
until a new path bifurcation. Take the
path at your right (the other one has
been traditionally used by muleteers).
In this part of the road, although not
at sight, important archaeological
vestiges - such as lithic workshops -
have been found, remarking the
ancestral occupation of the land by
native people in these latitudes.
Continuing our trek towards the west
it will begin a short span of steep
raises. Once above up we will walk
along a relatively flat path bordering
always on the hillside of the hill and
with spectacular conference of the
towers. We go direct towards the last
milestone of our trek. We begin now
the decrease across a fingerprint from
where it will be possible to spy to
fullness the zone of services out of the
National Park Tower of the Paine, the
Highland river and the area of
administration of the properly such
park. A bit later on you will intercept
the way. A table of information and
a panel of Welcome indicate us that
we have come to the Guidepost Nr
26, Congratulations! You have
finished the route. Through the road
you can access the services zone and
have a deserved rest and also reflect
on the road run and the natural
wonders appreciated in these 45 km
of watching, learning and adventure
through the Patagonia.
===The Milodón Cave===
Milodón Cave is now a reference
point and a must-see destination to
travelers visiting chilean Patagonia.
Located 24 km north the city of Puerto
Natales, it is currently lodged by the
189.5 hectares that make up
MILODÓN CAVE NATURAL
M O N U M E N T. T h i s N a t u r a l
Monument is one of the three existing
in the Region of Magallanes and is
the most important and more visited
by far it received over 52,000 visitors
only in 2005, among whom 55% were
foreigners.
As a Unit, it was created in 1978 being
thus incorporated to the State
Protected Area System under
CONAFs management.
DISCOVERY OF THE CAVE:
Hermann Eberhard, German colonist
who had settled in the surroundings
in 1893, visited in 1895, accompanied
by other people, a huge grotto or cave
that caught their attention by the
east, opening to the western hillside
of Benítez hill (51º36 S - 72º41 O).
This huge 30 meter high and 80 meter
wide cave, located around 160 meters
above the sea level, is over 200 meters
long.
On February 1895, the visitors found
a piece of dry skin that was semi-
buried on the dusty soil. When they
took it out, they all realized they had
never seen such a thing before,
considering that a number of little
bones were located above the hairs.
Size of this piece of skin was around
1.50 x 1.00 meter. They also found an
apparently incomplete human
skeleton next to the piece of skin.
The piece of skin was taken to the near
Estate Consuelo, where it was hung
and caught the attention of
whomever visited the district of
Ultima Esperanza through this Estate-
Port. Among the large number of
people who visited the cave, we can
highlight the Swedish geologist Otto
Nordenskjold who was then, in 1896,
directing scientific works conducted
in Magallanes by an expedition from
his country. In sum, Nordenskjold
concluded that the remains found
would correspond to an already
extinct animal that he called
Neomylodon listai and that could
have lived in recent times and be
contemporaneous to human beings.
The Swedish scientist was followed
by a huge number of naturalists,
researchers, and study practitioners
from many countries who are still
making their best efforts to unveil this
mystery, an interesting fact that has
not been extinguished by the passage
of years.
CONCLUSIONS TO THE DATE:
Vestiges found correspond to a very
big herbivore that disappeared late
the Pleistocene (8,000 to 10,000 years
BP). Scientific interest grew even more
when recognized that primitive
Patagonian man lived in the area,
whose date would go back to around
12,000 years BP. These beings known
as Paleoindians were land hunters
who traveled into the fiord zone.
In addition, the Milodón was a
teethed and plantigrade mammal. It
would have walked on all fours or on
its two rear legs being supported by
its strong tail.
SCIENTIFIC RELEVANCE
CONNECTED TO THE NATURAL
MONUMENT:
Researchers have made efforts for
over one century both in the main
cave and in minor caves, as well as in
the number of eaves located in the
area, reason why this sector is
recognized as the best known and
documented group of deposits in
Chile and South-America with regard
to primitive human settlement and
natural life of that time.
These works and vestige findings
have thus demonstrated presence in
this end of Patagonia of other
representatives of extinct fauna, such
as, Saber-toothed Tiger (Smilodon
sp.); Big Camelid (Macchauchenia);
Big Bear (Arctodus pamparum); Big
Fox (Dusicyon avus).
ORIGIN OF THE CAVE:
The cave has changed very little from
the times of primitive human
presence and Milodón itself, only
minor rock detachments and slightly
bigger landslides, which are also very
old.
Confirmation of existence of a big
paleolake called paleolake of Ultima
Esperanza, that existed around
12,500 years BP, a key element for
generation of proper environmental
conditions for early human
settlement, has allowed to clarify
many doubts and to ascertain that
Milodón Cave is a clear evidence of a
lutite rocky stratum decomposition
process, located below conglomerate
level. This cave formation action was
assisted by permanent whipping
action of Paleolake of Ultima
Esperanza water, that subsequently
suffered its sudden emptying, but that
previously carved and shaped current
landscape.
==Recommendations==
Before departure it is necessary to bring the
following elements:
· Clothes including raincoat and thermal
gear for greater safety and comfort,
considering that routes are frequently
under strong wind and low temperature
conditions.
· First aid kit.
· UV protection cream and glasses.
· Map of the route and watch to calculate
times.
· Bags to keep wastes.
Basic elements:
· Be previously informed about the
meteorological conditions for a better
planning of your visit.
· Take the tour informed and read the
guide before beginning each segment. In
order to achieve an easier walking, the
trail have different types of information,
from signs with written information when
have been possible to do it, to color
ribbons on trees and trail boundaries,
made of stones and wooden sticks.
· Consider seasonal variations that could
partly alter floristic characteristics and
access to water as mentioned in this
topoguide.
· Pay special attention to the wet and
slippery rocks.
· Consider fluctuations in displacement
times according to physical status and
load transported. Remember that
sections in the route with extended
ascents require good physical conditions.
· Do not visit the route in Winter, except for
skilled people with previous training for
extreme weather conditions.
· Special places, with information and
facilities, must be used for entrance and
exit to the trail. Visitors should walk just
on it. Do not separate from the route.
· Do not remove or alter elements of the
heritage route.
· Do not hunt or disturb native fauna.
· Do not remove species of native flora.
· Do not leave garbage on the route, bring
it with you.
· Camp in authorized sites only.
· Do not light fires.
· Washing of dishes and clothes as well as
personal cleaning, must be done with
biodegradable soap and at least at 60
meters from water sources.
{{Topoguide|29}}
==Route in Google Earth==
==Expected time==
*[[Media:.kmz|Route of...]]
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