74
ediciones
Cambios
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Side note: bus cochrane to chile chico is preferably to locals. We were not able to reserve seats. We should drop by and see if a free spot is available, and if, we'd have to pay the double price. Didnt know, this existed in Chile.
Edit: the connection is subsidized by the chilenian gov, we stopped at the police station, where the passenger list was handed over to recieve the subsidies. This is why foreigners pay a different price and cant reserve. The drive was very scenic!
*’’’2025/26 Dec 24 to Jan 9 / 13.5 hiking days, 2.5 zero days / NOBO / Hiking / RR, Opt 3, Opt 3C, Opt 3A, Opt 3E, Var L / Michael and Kasia’’’
Quick notes: A really amazing section. This was our third time going through the park (twice last season). We opted for NOBO this season, which we were very happy with. Especially after Casa Piedra, the views were nicer going that way. We also discovered that if starting in Cochrane, it is possible to arrange for a resupply drop to Casa Piedra to reduce weight. More information in the Resupply Along the Way section. The park seems to be increasing in popularity, or maybe our timing is different this year, but we saw a lot more people than last year. For the plateau, if you can wait for a low-to-no wind day to cross, it's a much better experience. If you have a windless night, we recommend camping on the plateau. There’s a special kind of silence there on calm nights.
CHALLENGES: Tábanos. While we didn't see many in the Tamango and Chacabuco sectors, in the Jenimeni sector they were really bad. More specific to us, grass allergies. They were the worst on the Jenimeni sector.
WATER: Generally very easy to come by. The exception was the Siete Lagunas trail.
CAMPS:
NIGHT 1: -47.18812, -72.52718 (official campground, nice view of lake, raised cooking box with wind protection, picnic tables, we could only find one space that was level and not on wet ground, no wind protection)
NIGHTS 2&3: -47.18468, -72.52438 (official campground, a couple of benches in poor condition, no wind protection, water access is a ways away, there was more flattish space here than in the other space, and the taller grass helped compensate for the lumpiness)
NIGHT 4: -47.14151, -72.45515 (some wind protection, clean stream nearby, view just up the hill, not visible from the trail)
NIGHT 5: -47.15964, -72.41494 (nice view on the lake, okay wind protection from the north and west, easy water access, easily visible from the road above)
NIGHT 6: -47.13355, -72.31556 (Camp, X {35} 119.1 space for one tent, next to a collapsed stop-over puesto, nice view of the lake, some wind protection but not a lot, easy water access, not that level)
NIGHT 7: -47.07533, -72.25804 (on grass looking over the lake, some wind protection, water is down at the lake)
NIGHT 8: Casa Piedra (10.000 CLP pp, possibility of a hot shower, indoor space for cooking and eating, electricity for charging, mosquitos outside were pretty bad)
NIGHT 9: -46.98407, -72.15984 (decent wind protection, flat enough, a nice view nearby, no good water source close, right on the trail)
NIGHT 10: -46.87214, -72.17639 (some wind protection, flat space for two to three tents, stream about 10 m away, right on the trail)
NIGHTS 11&12: Camp Raleigh (spaces in various places, a few picnic tables and a shelter, outhouse, next to a beautiful lake, popular spot)
NIGHT 13: -46.79026, -71.91166 (Camp (42.9+0.2) near the bridge, good wind protection from the west, flat spaces for a few tents, view of the road, the river is about 200 m away)
NIGHT 14: -46.70956, -71.88111 (flat, grassy space, some protection from western winds, water close by)
NIGHT 15: -46.66455, -71.84387 (flat, some wind protection from the west, water is about 170 m away)
Night 16: -46.606711, -71.809753 (on a bit of an angle, some wind protection from winds coming from the west, water is from a stream about 150 m away)
Day 01: Dec 24th
We organized a resupply delivery to Casa Piedra with Jorge. We met the driver at 09:00 at the tourist center in the plaza to hand the box off. We took Var R to get into the park. We bought tickets online before entering. At El Húngaro we went north on Opt 3 (Sendero 6: Las Lenguas) to Laguna El Cangrejo. The trail up was in good shape and a lot of it was in the forest. This was the first time we had taken this trail and we were really happy with it. We camped at the official camping spot at km 15.3. No one else came that night. There was a family of geese with six or seven goslings hanging around the site which we really enjoyed.
Day 02: Dec 25th
We did an out-and-back day hike along Opt 3C (Sendero 7: Los Guanacos). We had walked it last year and remembered that there is a really nice pebble beach on Laguna Elefantita (-47.18524, -72.49595). It was a nice, leisurely way to spend Christmas Day. When we returned there was another couple camped at the camping spot at km 15.3. We knew from the day prior that there was really only one tent space that was on flat, dry ground, so we went to the site at km 14.8.
Day 03: Dec 26th
Zero day to wait over rain.
Day 04: Dec 27th
We continued on Opt 3 (Sendero 9: Los Cóndores). At around km 13.5 there was a reroute that is not in the GPT track files yet, but is on OSM. It is also heavily marked with flag tape, so hard to miss. This goes around a huge blow-down from last season. It rejoins the GPT track at around km 13.2. Between km 11.5 and 10.5 there are a few areas on a steep slope where the path is on an angle and there is scree on the path. They aren't long sections, but we wouldn’t personally want to be walking it during high winds. After Pass 10.9 we continued on Opt 3A (Lagunas Altas). It was a sunny but rather windy afternoon. At the lake at (-47.13894, -72.47796) we saw a group of guanacos, including one baby guanaco, which was very cute. We took Opt 3E and found a spot to camp about 600 m in, going across the stream and up the hill. It was a decent spot, hidden from the trail and seemed to have good wind protection.
Day 05: Dec 28th
Continued on Opt 3E. Nice views on the valley. The trail is in good shape and easy to follow. The trail is mostly through exposed areas. From km 5.1 until km 1.9 we did not find any water. At km 1.9 (-47.15420, -72.43156) there was a good, clear stream. We camped at km 0 of Opt 3E down at the lake shore.
Day 06: Dec 29th
Cloudy and windy throughout the day, a little rain but not much. Landscape was beautiful though. We saw two huemules as we were walking the two track road along Laguna Adelita. Good water points at km 130.5 (-47.16069, -72.40775), km 125.2 (-47.14270, -72.36498), and okay lake access to Laguna Vizcacha at km 122.8 (-47.14118, -72.34587), but that was it for water until Laguna Gua Gua. Pay special attention to the trail around km (-47.135394, -72.328629). It goes uphill, but a large tree fell across the path. It's not immediately obvious, but if you go up a few meters you see where it continues. There is another path that continues straight ahead, but it leads to a scramble and some unnecessary elevation gain. We camped at Camp, X 119.1. It is somewhat wind protected from the lake, but it was a very gusty night.
Day 07: Dec 30th
Sunny but very windy morning. Shortly before leaving, three other hikers passed us going SOBO. Camp 114.6 did not seem to have any flat space for a tent. The stream near it was also dry. There was running water at km 113.5 (-47.10902, -72.28838). It wasn't a lot, but it was clear and clean. Water (112.3) had a few stagnant pools, but nothing running. At (-47.09787, -72.28558) there was some water running, but it was very shallow. Not water again until the lake. Just before the pass a group of three hikers passed us going SOBO. On the way down watch the GPS, there are a lot of animal trails. We wanted to camp on the beach, but the water level was too high. We camped instead a little ways before the lake in a grassy area a few meters off the trail.
Day 08: Dec 31st
We left very early. We remembered that there was a part toward the end of the lake that was difficult for us last season, largely due to it being very windy, so we wanted to arrive early before the wind picked up. It was a sunny day and the lake and mountains were beautiful in the early morning light. We made it past the steep, slippery part much more easily this time. We arrived in Casa Piedra around 11:00. We got our package, which has already arrived. The person running administration offered to heat water for a shower for us, which we happily accepted. We also took the opportunity to charge everything. Several solo hikers and couples came down from Valle Hermoso. Shortly after the bus left a tour group of 11 arrived, and then a group of ten Chileans who had hiked from Chile Chico. We spent some time with the Chileans which was fun. One of them said they had done the route before and were really surprised at how many more people they saw this time. Despite it being New Years Eve and there being 25 people there, it was a quiet night.
Day 09: Jan 1st
We got a bit of a late start. Full sun day with very little wind. We opted for Var L, on the west side of the river. It has more ascent initially, but there are a couple of long, flat sections. We also suspected, and think we are probably correct, that the views were a little better on that side. Another consideration was that we both have vertigo and did not want to have to take the suspension bridge. We went down to see it and were happy with our choice. A tour group of about 18 headed SOBO passed us on the way out. Ford {35-L} 0.8 was easy, mid-calf. We camped near an OSM marked campsite around RR km 88. There were a few spots there that had been used recently as evidenced by flattened grass. Ours was under a couple of trees which provided decent wind protection. There was a very nice view on the mountains a little ways up the trail. We filled up on water at the estero about 300 m before the campsite. There were two streams closer by, but they were fairly shallow.
Day 10: Jan 2nd
Camp at km 84 has one spot under some trees and a few other spots around in the grass. Camp at 82.7, which many people along the trail refer to as “the camp at km 16”, is a large field with a makeshift picnic table and spots for several tents, some of which are wind protected, others not. There is a path down to the river for water.
Ford (83.4) was above the knee with a fair amount of current. The camp site right after it has spaces for two tents, but not good for trekking pole supported tents as there were too many big roots in the ground. At Refuge (81.8) we didn't see any flat areas to pitch a tent. Ford (80.1) was fairly easy, below the knee and not too much current. The views up the valley were spectacular. The sun came out in the afternoon and lit the mountains up. With all the wind, some of the waterfalls coming down the mountains had the water blown back uphill and they looked like they were steaming. The camp at km 78.2 didn't seem to exist. The camp at km 76.9 was in the forest; there were spaces for two tents, one next to a collapsed shelter, and another back in the woods a bit. At km 76.4 there is an unmarked ford which ironically was the most challenging one by far. We had to choose our crossing points very carefully as there was a lot of current and it was crotch deep at the deepest point (we're both about 165 cm). The water was also very cloudy which made it difficult to see the bottom. We arrived there around 19:00 on a warm day, so an earlier crossing, especially on a cooler day, might be easier. The camp at km 75 had space for two or three tents. It was in the trees and had some wind protection, but the spaces were gravel and wouldn't hold the tent stakes of our X-Mid 2. We camped at the camp at 74.1. It is in the trees, though the trees are low and sparse, so not great wind protection. There are spots for at least 3 tents. There is a stream about 10 meters away. In total we passed 9 hikers going SOBO.
Day 11: Jan 3rd
The Pass 74.9 is a low saddle, not difficult. On the way down there was a section about 500 m long where there were so many fallen trees it was impossible to keep to the trail. After that there were a few fallen trees here and there until the fords, but all easy to step over or go around. The fords until Valle Hermoso were all easy, knee deep at most with moderate current. The last ford before the ascent to Puertzuelo La Gloria was mid-thigh for us, but not a strong current so no problem. The ascent up was a little challenging. We went up in the afternoon on a hot, sunny, windless day and the hillside was in full sun the whole time. There were also a few areas that were fairly steep and had scree on the trail. The way down the other side was thankfully in shade by the time we got there. Fords on the other side were also below knee with more current than the Valle Hermoso side, but nothing difficult. We arrived late to Camp Raleigh. One other couple was there for the night.
Day 12: Jan 4th
We decided to take a rest day. It was supposed to be another hot and mostly windless day. It was nice to sit on the beach in the shade and look at the mountains and the water. I also spent a lot of time killing tábanos. It never seems to make a difference. A few people passed through in the early afternoon. At 16:00 a school group of about 20 16-18 year olds from California came to camp for the night. Fortunately they weren't loud.
Day 13: Jan 5th
Another hot and largely windless day. We got to El Silencio around 13:00. We met Mor, another GPTer, on the way. We wanted to hitch and get to a spot below the plateau for the night, but there were no cars in the parking lot. We started walking the road and didn't see a single car. We decided to camp near the willow trees across the field from the bridge. It was flat and had wind protection from the south-west, but it had a ton of noseeums and tábanos, it's exposed to the road, and the river is about 200 m away. Definitely not our favorite campsite.
Day 14: Jan 6th
We got an early start to make as much distance as possible before the heat hit. It was full sun and hot all day. At (km 38.5) we found a path that corresponded to the OSM track and started on that. As it got closer to the GPT track we switched over. We followed the fence line up on the east side, but had to climb through the fence at one point. We would recommend being on the west side as there is a marshy spot that is difficult to get through. There is a gate at (-46.749383, -71.898336) which could be used to get to the west side. We found a nice spot to camp near Water (30.6) before going up to the pass. It has good wind protection from winds from the south-west. Another spot (-46.710147, -71.883436) was also wind protected from the same direction. It was a little warmer and seemed a bit better sheltered, but we chose the other one because it was flatter and on grass.
Day 15: Jan 7th
Woke up to a silent, sunny morning. The clouds came in as the day went on. At times there were cold breezes, but otherwise windless throughout the day. There were lots of different small wild flowers out. At the large lake there was a flock of about 50 flamingos. Shortly after we met Dave and Siyuan and had a nice chat with them. We found another small group of flamingos at one of the smaller lakes. We decided to camp on the plateau since it was a calm night. We stayed in the same spot we did last season. Had a windless night.
Day 16: Jan 8th
It was a still morning. Clouds rolled in as the afternoon progressed and winds picked up. The wind gets to be pretty tiring. We saw lots of little wildflowers, white and pink, yellow and orange, all different kinds. Lots of lizards skittered about as we walked. Getting closer to the second pass we saw two large herds of guanacos. As we approached the down, the views out over the valley were really great. We followed the OSM track for the descent rather than the GPT track. We met the settler, Claudio, and his son while they were doing a round to look for their sheep. They said we could camp in the vallecito down below and said there was good water there. We camped in the same spot as last season. There were lots of noseeums out so we were in the tent pretty early.
Day 17: Jan 9th
We got up early because it was supposed to be hot. There were some great views out over the lake. We ended up walking the whole way to town.
