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==Season 2025/26==
'''GPT05-06/ 2026-01-03 to 2026-01-12/ 11 days/ Hiking/ SOBO/ GPT05 Options 1, 2, RR; GPT06 Options 9B, 9A, 9, 3B, 3, RR, 6F/ Greg and Simon Carter'''
Overall
This was my favourite GPT trek to date. Spectacular mountain vistas, lagunas, rivers, streams and springs, waterfalls, glaciers, hot springs, challenging navigation and terrain, volcanoes, wild horses, arrieros, and condors.
A big shout out to Alexey Abramov for providing the track file of his “Desolation Traverse: Los Queñes - Rio Colorado - Descabezado plateau - Central Los Cipreses” (available on WikiLoc), which was super helpful in navigating through difficult cross-country terrain.
Attraction: 5/5
Difficulty: 5/5
Day 1
Caught a bus from Curicó to Los Queñes for CLP 2,500pp. (The bus leaves at 0730, 1130, 1300, 1630, 1830 Mon-Fri; 0730, 1130 and 1630 on Sat, Sun and public holidays)
Arriving early Mon there was little chance of a hitch so we (reluctantly) paid CLP 40,000 for a ride up to the start of Option 1.
Wonderful mountain and lake views on the hike up the road and valley to camp.
The Refuge {05-01} [8.9/2599] (El Planchon Base Camp) was locked but had good camping spots, running water from a hose, and a covered outdoor area with an open fire place (and wood) and enough room to pitch a small tent undercover in bad weather.
Camped at {05-01} [13.2+0.2/2623], which had amazing views but was very exposed and dusty with high gusting wind.
Day 2
Ascended Volcán Planchon on Option 2, which was quite challenging with steep loose scree, and ridge walking close to big drop-offs with a strong cross-wind. 2hrs up. 1.5hrs down on an alternative route to the west of Option 2, which seemed safer, provided some enjoyable scree skiing on soft sand, and joined up with the E/W OSM trail at the foot of the Volcán, to return to the intersection of Options 1 and 2.
Spectacular views of and from the Volcán. Well worth the effort.
Note there was no water until Camp {05-01} [27.8/1670]. However there was plenty of water at this camp, which has a man-made irrigation ditch that channels water close to camp.
Day 3
Joined the RR and forded the Rio Claro at -35.20436, -70.66298, where as Bailey pointed out, there is a clear water stream entering the Rio Claro. The ford was easy, at half calf height.
After the ford there was some enjoyable ridge hiking, with spectacular big mountain views.
Camped at -35.24513, -70.66722, beside a bunch of small bushes, which provided good shelter from northerly winds coming up the valley. Good flowing water in the nearby stream.
Day 4
Very scenic views from pass [41.0/2354] and during the subsequent descent and ascent. Then really spectacular 270 degree views from pass [48.7/2362].
Sketchy very steep technical descent to camp at Rio Negro, with the trail partially washed away in some sections.
Camped by Rio Negro. Camp sites are limited: only for a 2 person and 1 person tent.
Day 5
Easy ford of the Rio Negro in the morning, as the water level dropped substantially overnight. However it was also fordable late afternoon the previous day.
Steep technical descent down from Cuesta La Hormiga, through the Bottleneck.
Then slow going crossing through numerous boulder fields, heading upriver.
Note there is a steep descent down a washout extending towards the Rio Colorado, commencing at the large cairn at -35.34364, -70.64654. The last few metres are a bit tricky to get down from the boulders - head downstream/ west to find the easiest path down to the river flats.
Enjoyed a nice swim in an eddy immediately downstream of the bridge over the Rio Colorado at -35.34734, -70.64363.
The trail becomes easier after the bridge, as it becomes a well travelled cattle trail.
There is a good flowing stream at -35.37310, -70.57358 just before the hot spring at [64.7/2027] (Las Yeguas), also just after, at -35.37194, -70.57043.
Enjoyed a wonderful hot spring and camp at Las Yeguas. There is cold water flowing into the hot spring from a pipe which is probably ok if filtered. We met the family from the nearby puesto who dropped in to use the hot spring. They were friendly and didn’t mind us camping.
Note that in the morning the hot spring was warm, so it’s best to use it in the afternoon, or divert the cold water pipe flowing into the spring the night before.
Day 6
Continued on the RR. The ford of the Rio Valle Grande at [68.1/2057] was easy, at half calf height.
Enjoyed the awesome hot spring at [70.3/2135] (Termas Pellejo), then forded the Rio Colorado a little downstream, at knee height.
Continued the RR, ascending with views of incredible volcanic landscapes, then descended to camp in a gully with a small spring at -35.42381, -70.55906.
Day 7
Hiked up to GPT06 Option 9/ 9A junction, with stunning desolate volcanic terrain along the way, especially the valley of Rio San Pedro (easy ford at [83.0/2340], ankle height).
Lake {05} [80.4/2499] has plenty of water, and there is a good flowing stream before you get there, at -35.41984, -70.59138.
Late in the day climbed Descabezado Chico - no snow but very steep with sand and small loose rock that is fairly well consolidated (ie doesn’t move much when stepped on). Spectacular views from the summit.
Day 8
Continued on GPT06 Option 9. Another day of spectacular big mountain scenery.
Plenty of water in Rio Barroso.
Pass {05-08} [5.2+6.2/3033] has a steep ice field across it including a section of sideways sloping steep ice covering 20m of the trail (viewed in the direction of the trail it was lower to higher, left to right), where micro-spikes were required. I cut steps with the micro-spikes as I crossed. This was a solid but scary traverse where a slip/slide would have been fatal. Alternatively you can bypass the ice by walking above it on very loose rock, which is not recommended.
Camped at -35.54428, -70.75478, below the trail junction of Options 3B and 9, where there are some good camping sites beside the Estero El Volcan, which had a good flow.
Day 9
Traversed Descabezado Grande on GPT06 Option 3B. Spectacular scenery but slow progress on complex volcanic terrain, requiring hours of contouring, ascending and descending.
Luckily Pass {06-3B} [2.7/3124] had no snow or ice.
Ford {06-3B} [5.8/2847] had very little flow with small pools of clean water.
The Quebrada El Descabezado had no water.
Camped at -35.64057, -70.78693.
Day 10
Hiked Option 3 to the RR. Really spectacular views traversing to Pass {06} [59.5/2518] (Hornitos).
On descent from the pass there was a good flowing stream at -35.70283, -70.82520, and at Camp {06} [62.3/1999].
No ford was required at Ford {06} [63.6/1909], as the river is not flowing. Laguna de los Hornitos has a fair amount of water, but it is getting low with algae around the sides.
Climbed Volcan Los Hornitos and walked around the rim - really superb views.
Hiked down to the road. Rio Cipreses was dry in its upper reaches, as the Laguna La Invernada has been dammed for hydro. Dry camped at -35.75345, -70.78590. There is a gate on the road to the Laguna, but it could be passed if you need water. The next water is further away, down the road, at Water {06} [73.7/1014], where there is a good flowing stream.
Day 11
Hiked out to Los Cipreses. The Shop was open at {06-F} [0.5/855]. Hitched easily from the bus stop at {06-F} [0.6/862] to Talca.
*'''2025-08-09: Track file update 2025 and investigation suggestions of Jan Dudeck'''
- Updated GPT05 Regular Route: The updated regular route now follows the upper Rio Colorado and avoids the demanding Cuesta Las Perdices where some hikers struggled. The updated regular route also eliminates the need to cross the bridge of Rio Colorado that get disassembled in autumn and reassembled in late spring or early summer. The updated regular route seems also more attractive with plenty of camp sites and two hot springs. Fording Rio Colorado high up seams feasible during most of the hiking season.
- New GPT05 Variant B and Option 3 (Paso El Campanario): Fording Rio Negro is often very challenging and dangerous especially in spring and summer. Based on accounts from locals the route Paso El Campanario was used to move animals until about 2 decades ago. This route crosses Rio Negro higher up in a sediment area where fording should be somewhat easier. The 1000 m ascent to Paso El Campanario looks demanding but not impossible on satellite images.
- GPT05 Option 1 (Lago Teno): This option is clearly more scenic when compared with the regular route.
- New GPT05 Option 9 (Rio Colorado Bajo): See comments and recommendation at GPT06 [https://wikiexplora.com/GPT06_(Descabezado)].
- It is unclear how tolerant Argentine border police treats hikers that sneak through Argentine territory east of vulcano Planchon-Peteroa. There is a special arrangement between Chile and Argentina that permits the Chilean arrieros of Valle Grande to cross at Paso Vergara by car from Chile to Argentina and drive 15 or 20 km though Argentina before re-entering Chile at an informal border crossing just north of Valle Grande. But I'm unsure if this applies also to "lost hikers". Anyway, in case of an emergency crossing into Argentina from Valle Grande is probably an option. In this case "lost hikers" are probably returned via Paso Vergara to Chile. Also, climbers from Chile and Argentina get from both sides of the border up to the summit of Volcano Planchon and there seams little dispute over this. Trails crossing the border are clearly visible on satellite images.
==Season 2024/25==
*'''GPT04, GPT05, GPT06/2026-01-16 to 2026-01-24/ 9 days/hiking/SOBO/Route: as mentioned, RR/ Bailey and illiana'''
Day 4. Transition to GPT05
I walked the road without a car going past. GPT04 Option 1, GPT05 option 1. Accidentally adopted a dog, no one was around or a building. Couldn't get it to stop following me
Both Camp {05-01} [27.8/1670] and Camp {05-A} [4.1/1574] hard murky water sources
Connected to GPT05 RR
Ford {05} [33.1/1455] (Rio Claro) was the hardest of this trip. Very murky water. I went up stream to cross. When going upstream there's a clear river also feeding the Rio Claro. Good water source for camp
Camp 4. Camp {05} [33.2/1457], heaps of rubbish
Day 5.
See photos for descent to Rio Negro. I found it okay, take it easy.
From above you can see where the Rio Negro braids and a good spot to ford, no issue
The bridge was built, I used it but later found out I didn't need to
The hardest scree/ trail for me was just before reaching camp but i was pretty tired
A lot of unmarked water sources along options 4, 4A and 4B if you decide to use the bridge to cross the Rio Colorado
Coordinates; -35.35800, -70.62624, -35.36049, -70.62581, -35.36450, -70.62179, -35.36957, -70.61496, -35.37377, -70.61176, -35.37555, -70.60993, -35.38154, -70.59666, -35.38151, -70.57827. Basically I wouldn't worry about carrying water
Crossed the Rio Colorado just before the hot spring. It was very mild here
The Hot Spring {05} [70.3/2135] (Termas Pellejo) has to be my favorite hot spring so far.
Camp 5. Camp {05-04B} [4.5/2131]
Day 6. Left GPT05 RR onto GPT05 option 7 (Laguna Aguas Calientes), then onto GPT06 option 7 (Valle San Francisco)
Visited Hot Spring, Camp {05-07} [8.5+1.3/2566], not much of a hot spring, nice camping spots on the sand
Camp 6. At almost dried out lake, heaps of flat ground here -35.51876, -70.48925
Day 7. Continued on GPT06 option 7
*'''2025-03-22 / 1 day / Hiking / Sobo / RR + Var H / MiaimZelt'''
Hiked GPT 6 and also did the GPT 5 part from Laguna las Animas to Laguna Mondaca. Good trail, very steep in deep sand. Hiked Var H to reach Termas de Azufre. It goes CC through a big boulderfield. Slow progression, but not really difficult. Rivercrossing was knee deep and had a strong current. But it's very hard to reach the beginning of the trail to Termas Azufre. The lower part is badly eroded. Followed the suggestion of the GPT track. The mountainside is extremely steep with loose ground. Due to very few vegetation in combined with loose ground it was dangerous to climb up, slipped sometimes. Don't recommend it - maybe there is a better opportunity?
* ''' 2024-12-21 to 2024-12-25 / 5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR to Ford [68.9/2340] (Rio San Pedro) / Dorota'''
Generally, very extreme stage, especially for women alone of 1.64 cm height.
I started in Quénes, which in this period was very empty. I passed the night in the restaurant in front of the pizzeria, but I could not recommend it. 20.000 clp with cold water. First, for MR, it was very easy, but you needed to take water. But then difficulties started. First, passing Río Colorado [33.1/1455]. I tried to cross it in the evening. I crossed one bank, but the other was not. So I put my tent between the banks, which was not safe. In the morning, I went upstream and I found a better place for crossing the river using mainly rocks. But still, it was exhausting. All operations took me one hour. And after that, I was so tired that I slept for one hour. Other fords [45.2/1919] (Río Baroso) and [51.2/1940] (Río Negro) were also difficult for me - the water was to knee level. There was a very good bridge on Río Colorado (55.0). But the descent to the valley of Rio Colorado was very demanding. At point -35.32681, -70.65340, it starts downhill to Río. At the start, I could not find a safe way of going down because the track leads you into hell. But after that, at a point below, I found a sign of the route (acouple of rocks). The ascent after it is also demanding because of navigation. All the time, I was checking the route on GPS. Finally, my adventure with stage 5 finished at km 68.9/2340 Río San Pedro. I tried to cross it in the afternoon, but I fell into the river because of the strong current. The level was only to the knee. I put up my tent. Very early in the morning, I tried again. After two steps, I fell into the river and started going down. I thought that it was my end. Trying to catch any rock, I lost my sticks. Finally, I was rescued. I was frightened, wet, and felt very cold. I put up my tent and for the whole day thought about what to do. Without sticks, I could not cross any river, and I still had 13 km to join stage 6 and cross the river. Each option had rivers. The next day, in the morning, I put a signal SOS on my reach. After two hours, a helicopter with three soldiers came. They took me to the hospital in Curicó. Despite the fact that I did not have any injuries. It is a procedure. In the hospital, they took me to the emergency room, made an examination, and gave me electrolytes. In this hospital, it was the first rescue . Everybody was interested in me, which was really embarrassing. Then, the carabineros went to make a report. In the hospital, they were very polite, also the carabineros. After that, they took me to a hostel. After the accident, I did not know what to do and for a month had something like a type of trauma that something could happen again. Finally, I decided to continue stage 6 from the start. But I registered at the point of the carabineros, the same carabineros which were in the hospital. They took my data and each day I sent them information that everything was okay. They said to me that if they did not have a signal, they would start a rescue. I made stage 6 to Termas but again I could not cross the river near Termas because of trauma de rios. I came back and I met Peggy at Laguna Animas. We continued together and step by step I started to think that I still could continue the trail.
After 2 months (25.02.2025) from this accident, I know why it happened. And it is not easy to share such a type of accident. But I hope that this description could help other persons.
I did not have any experience with crossing rivers. I made it wrong. Now I can cross this river without any problem. Also, this stage is very exhaustive because of the terrain. So after a few days on this stage, my muscles were not strong enough to confront the strong current. My recommendation especially for women solo: try to find anybody who teaches you but practically not theoretically how to cross rivers. Now I am on stage 21 and I am really happy that I have decided to continue the trail.
* ''' 2025-FEB-12 to 2025-FEB-15 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + OH (var. H)/ Martin '''
Inspired fellow Czechs in December, I combined GPT05 and GPT06 and took food for 6 days.
Day 1:
Started 3 pm from Los Queñes, hiked around 23 km. Camped a km or two after a puesto. When it was getting dark, a group of people on horses appeared. Around 15 of them including kids. I asked if it’s ok to camp there. The owner arrived a but later (he was with the group) and was friendly and sure I can camp. It felt good to have permission. Their trip would be 9 days, including crossing over to Argentina.
Day 2:
Still quite easy until the last puesto. Then it got harder. Eventually got down to Rio Negro which seemed pretty wild. Hopefully it would be better in the morning. I camped on the only patch of semi-flat ground clear of vegetation I could find.
Day 3:
Crossed Rio Negro in the morning. Much more tame compared to the previous evening. Then began one of the hardest parts. When going down towards Rio Colorado, at one point I reached dense vegetation. So I thought what if I go all the way down and go along the river. Well, there is a reason it goes how it goes - at the river bed soon I was blocked by a cliff. So I had to scramble up again and carry on.
Around Rio Colorado, the first 1 km was terrible. But then it was mostly quite a good trail. With some exceptions. The most difficult parts are the dry river beds you need to cross.
Then the ascend to the lake - the first 1 km was hard, just straight up, no trail. But then there is trail and it’s easy (but hard because of gravitation of course). I camped at the lake. I was worried about wind. There are no stones, but the ground is pretty solid to hole stakes. Also, the wind tends to die down in the evening.
Day 4:
I thought now it would be easy, but no such luck. Some parts were ok, others were harder - either plain full of rocks, or wide river beds. When I got to the puesto with right of way dispute (after km 83), I saw a guy and almost passed unnoticed, but then his dogs gave me away. He was friendly, but we didn’t share a common language. No issue.
Then a bit later, there are some huts. There were two flags - one Chilean and one “Trump”. I was glad I didn’t see anybody there.
Around 5 I got to option H to connect to GPT06. One hour later I got to the GPT06 Trailhead point. That part is a bit sketchy as you need to scramble up.
Overall I found it very challenging, so no complaints about the classification of 6/5 from me.
* ''' 2024-01-16 to 2024-01-20 / 3.5 days / Hiking /SOBO / RR & variant H / Elijah & Michael '''
GPT05 was tough but not as challenging as expected.
Much more water available than waypoints.
Little trail available between Rio Negro and Rio Colorado, but decent, improving trail after Rio Colorado.
Upper puesto along Estero San Jose wasn't yet built for the season. Didn't have issues at lower puesto with indicated right of way issues, met arriero who was very nice.
Variant H connecting GPT05 to GPT06 has one very steep section with clambering.
* ''' 2024-DEC-06 > 09 / 3,5 jours / Randonnée / SOBO / RR>Variante Volcan Colorado / Pierre-Marie '''
| Danger : riviere puissante
Les 30 premiers km sont monotone. Mais c'est de plus en plus sauvage et jolie. J'ai dormi avant le rio Negro qui etait trop violent en fin de journee. Les descentes avant et apres le rio Negro sont très dangereuses.Il y a un pont sur le rio Colorado, heureusement car le torrent est infranchissable a pied.
La variante etait magnifique, beaucoup de neige et le col a 3000 etait tres enneigé. La fonte de la neige crée des trou qui complique la marche, mais il faut juste ralentir le rythme et ca se fait bien.