ENG:Lago Windhond
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Contenido
Season
Location
The Route is on Navarino Island, community of Cape Horn, province of Antarctica, which forms part of Region XII, The circuit starts south of Puerto Williams, the main settlement on Navarino Island. There are two ways of getting there:
Access
From Puerto Williams to the La Cascada sector at the head of the Róbalo valley, Suinvolving 2.8 kilometers of gravel road. Its a ten minute drive and 50 minute walk to SNUPIE 1.
From Puerto Williams to the Ukika River,
3.5 kilometers along route Y905, then
branching south along a secondary road,
equivalent to about 50 minutes walking
time to SNUPIE 1.
By car
Public transport
Markers
Markers have been designed
based on ones used in France. It is
a pioneering system renowned
worldwide for its efficiency and
simplicity and has been
supplemented with SNUPIES,
represented by Arabic numbers
which at times accompany the
markers indicating route and
direction. Each number has its own
meaning described in this Topoguide.
The Route is made up of 29
SNUPIES and markers indicating
route and direction, using signs
consisting of rock monoliths, wooden
stakes and trees, as well as local
materials that cause minimal impact.
The distance between signs
varies depending on the nature of
the section. There are more of them
in areas where the trail does not exist
or is not very clear. On the whole,
they are placed within a hikers field
of vision.
The circuit was signposted on
the field in two directions. One must
bear in mind that this Route considers
passing through part of the Dientes
de Navarino circuit, so we
recommend paying attention to the
series of SNUPIES whose sequence
has been altered to keep both routes
separate and ensure that a hiker is
guided in the right direction.
General description
The Cape Horn-Lake Windhond
heritage route is 41 kilometers long
from start to finish. It takes 21 hours
to walk, in other words, 3 or 4 days
travel time.
It starts in the La Cascada sector
and ends on the Ukika River next to
the vehicular access road to Puerto
Williams. The trip takes you through
a typical habitat of the high Andean
steppes. The impressive Dientes de
Navarino chain, the spectacular, unique
view from the top of Bettinelli
mountain, part of the large southern
plain of Navarino island, and Lake
Windhond where a shelter awaits
hikers and fishing fans, stand out.
Its connectivity with the Dientes
de Navarino Circuit, and its shape in
the form of a Y, mean that there are
several alternative hiking routes. The
circuit consists of seven sections,
defined in terms of their geographical
features, the existence of suitable areas
for camping and pre-designed and
marked routes.
The circuit can be traveled in both
directions, in other words, starting
from the Ukika River valley or starting
from the Róbalo River valley.
The first section runs from the La
Cascada sector to el Salto lake and
includes SNUPIES 1 through 6. The second section forms part of the
el Salto lake-Escondida lake
section of the Dientes de Navarino
circuit, which crosses the Dientes
pass and includes SNUPIES 11
through 16 of that circuit. The
third and fourth sections are the
access routes to Windhond river
and lake respectively. Sections 5,
6 and 7 are the route going north
through the Windhond river valley
and all of the Ukika River.
In order to minimize levels
of difficulty of the route for less
experienced hikers, we
recommend considering the
possibility of only doing a part of
the circuit (Puerto Williams- lake
Windhond, there and back along
the Ukika and Windhond valleys),
so as to avoid the more difficult
parts which are in the Dientes de
Navarino sector and the Bettinelli
mountain pass. Unstable
atmospheric conditions produce
strong winds that may
occasionally delay the trip through
high areas. Thus, in light of how
isolated the area is, notice must
be given before setting off.
In order to avoid losing the
trail, we recommend adhering
strictly to indications given in this
Topoguide and using the Dientes
de Navarino Circuit Topoguide as
a backup.
First segment
The section starts 2800 meters from
Puerto Williams, in the La Cascada
section marked with SNUPIE 1,
which coincides with the start of the
Dientes de Navarino circuit.
Two alternatives from there,
both clearly signposted with
directional arrows and sign-
associated colors. The first 470
meters between la Cascada and
SNUPIE 1 are common to both
circuits.
Alternative 1: Along Róbalo
valley, starting at SNUPIE 1 and
from there continuing along the trail
southwards towards el Salto lake
(blue signs) along the bottom of the
valley, always staying to the left of
the river (except for the final climb).
Alternative 2: Start along the
first section of the Dientes de
Navarino section, in other words,
climb from SNUPIE 1 up Bandera
hill and from there to lake el Salto.
If you have chosen alternative
1, follow the visible blue signs while
walking through beautiful forests
on the bottom of Róbalo valley until
you reach SNUPIE 2, painted on a
dead tree as you leave the forest
and announcing an obvious change
in vegetation from forest to peat.
This sector is made up of three
successive peat bogs that continue
along the bottom of the valley. As
you advance, the valley opens out
before you as you enter the first peat
bog; you must cross the bed of a
stream that shows evident traces of
beaver dams which have been
destroyed by floods.
Beavers are mammals that live
next to rivers and lakes in forested
areas, and this area is an ideal place
for them to live. Thus along the
Route you will frequently notice
large dens and dikes that take up
large areas and have ended up
flooding and stripping forested areas.
After crossing the bed of this
small stream, you follow the signs
towards the right (South) so as to
cross the peat bog lengthwise. You
then enter another forest before
crossing a second peat bog.
A climb up a slight slope in the
forest takes you to a clearing with
several dead trees in wet ground.
To the right you can see the northern
end of Lake Grande with its outlet,
and SNUPIE 3 marking the
entrance to the second sheltered
meadow in the Róbalo valley is
visible at the end of the clearing
on the shore of the lake. You have
reached SNUPIE 3, an ideal place
to rest or possibly camp. A truly
majestic landscape will entice you
to stop and rest. If you light a fire,
be careful of the wind eddies that
which tend to occur.
After SNUPIE 3, the route
continues to the left, passes
between a hill and the side of the
valley and zigzags up to a peculiar
black forest. SNUPIE 4 is
painted on a tree in this surprising
spot.
Leaving the black forest as
suddenly as it entered it, the route
returns to the luminosity of a high
canopy forest and zigzags until it
eventually turns right onto firm,
clear, fairly grassy land with
clumps of creepers. You are
reaching the top of the hill
separating the sheltered meadow
of Lake Grande and the one of
Lake Palachinque, where
SNUPIE 5 is located. As you leave the forest, there is a rocky
hillock to the right. It is well worth
stepping off the trail for a few
moments to climb to the top. The all-
encompassing view of the valley is
marvelous.
SNUPIE 5 is painted on a stone
marker on a large rock. It marks the
second and second to last sheltered
meadow in the valley. It is an
excellent point to check out the
coming sections. As one looks
towards Lake Palachinque, one can
see to the left the descent to the river
that feeds it and comes from Lake el
Salto.
After SNUPIE 5, one must
continue skirting Lake Palachinque
until one reaches the shore and then
continue on for a few meters. Be
careful not to miss the signposted
fork which climbs sharply up to the
left. It runs through the forest for a
short stretch and then turns right to
the foot of a clearing which has a
river running through the middle.
Take care to cross it at the spot
indicated by signs and then turn left
immediately in a southern direction.
There is a sharp climb up to the outlet
of Lake el Salto, where SNUPIE 6
is painted on a noticeable stone
marker on the western side of the
outlet of Lake el Salto.
There are suitable camping sites
on the edge of the lake, although
they are not sheltered from the wind.
The wind and cliffs form a hemicycle
around the lake and can cause violent
wind eddies.
Beavers working on the shores
of lake el Salto have left numerous
remains of dead trees, which are ideal
for lighting fires. In spite of these
limitations, it is a favorite camp site
for Dientes de Navarino visitors. If
there is bad weather, it is an
obligatory stopping place to wait for
an improvement in order to cross the
Dientes pass.
There are 4 alternatives from
this point onwards:
1 Return to Puerto Williams
along the same route.
2 Return to Puerto Williams
following the Dientes de Navarino
circuit in the opposite direction, in other words, over Bandera hill,
where you have to be careful because
the route is only signposted in one
direction and hikers moving in the
other direction cannot see the signs
easily. Finding the trail will not be
hard, since it visible on the ground,
and, although the stone cairns are
not marked, they stand out. We
recommend this route only for
experienced walkers, since this
section has some steep slopes. In
fact, one of the main advantages of
the Cascada-Lake el Salto section
is precisely that it is an alternative
to these steep slopes.
If you choose this second
alternative, you will move out from
SNUPIE 6 seeing a steep rocky slope
to the left (east) of the lake. You will
have to climb it from the end on the
left (north). You will then skirt the
middle part of forest of creepers to
your right and then turn 45 degrees
to the left, just before the cliffs, to
head off in a northern direction.
Continue on the same heading for 3
hours, cutting across the slope
generally just above the vegetation
line until you reach the top of
Bandera hill. You can enjoy a
marvelous view of Puerto Williams
from the top of the hill. At that point,
you turn left (west) following the stakes
into the forest and down to the valley
bottom, where you retake SNUPIE 1
and turn right to reach Cascada in 5
minutes.
3 If you decided to camp at Lake
el Salto and visibility is good and you
have the time to spare, you can hike
up to the Dientes de Navarino. This
chain of mountains lies to the
southwest and its series of sheer
mountain tops that rise to more than
1000 meters are clearly visible. The
whole sector between Lake el Salto
and the Dientes is suitable for walking
in the midst of imposing mountain
landscapes dominated by lakes, rocky
slopes and sheltered meadows. This is
one of the most amazing landscapes
on the whole route.
4 You can retake the Dientes de
Navarino circuit from Lake el Salto to
the southern slope of the Dientes pass
(two hours hike from Lake el Salto),
and then retake the next sections to
reach Lake Windhond or continue
along the Dientes de Navarino circuit.
Second segment
You start this section by skirting the
left (east) shore of Lake el Salto. It is
important to mention that, from this point
on, you start to retake the Dientes de
Navarino circuit, specifically part of the
Lake el Salto-Lake Escondida section.
Therefore, the proper numbering will be
SNUPIES 11 to 16.
One can see a rocky promontory
south of the lake that falls sharply onto
the shore. You must take care because
the right place to start climbing is before
this promontory, immediately to your left
(SNUPIE N° 11). Follow the stream
closest to the rocky promontory,
which runs along a steeply sloped
ravine. Continue up the ravine to the
top and then turn left (east), following
the natural course of a twisting little
valley that continues on until it
reaches a large plain (SNUPIE 12).
Then cross the river, climb right up
a long grass and peat covered hillock
that rises up out of the center of the
plain. Continue along the top of the
hillock to a small rocky pass called
First Pass, where a stream is born.
After First Pass follow the
course of the stream to the entrance
to a high valley (SNUPIE 13), where
you will find snow even in summer.
Follow the valley to the left (east) on
a 140º heading until you reach
Australia pass (SNUPIE 14), marked
by a large stone marker. Continue on
along the right-hand side of the lake
at the foot of Australia pass, but
without dropping down to its level.
Take the route halfway down on a
heading of 110º. This is a dangerous
pass, especially when the ground is
wet or is covered by sheets of snow;
always make sure that the markers
are clearly in sight.
You will reach Dientes pass,
which looks southwards (SNUPIE
15). Drop down through the valley
that opens up on the other side of the
pass, passing to the left (east) of the
lakes. SNUPIE 16 is on the southern
shore of the third lake (including the
tiny one in the middle). So too is
SNUPIE 1 of the section that leads
towards lake Windhond and which
indicates a fork in the Dientes de
Navarino circuit.
Third segment
We start this section with the
SNUPIE 1 marker which coincides with
the SNUPIE 16 marker of the Dientes
de Navarino circuit. This marker lies a
few meters beyond the southern tip of
the third lake after the Dientes de
Navarino pass. There are two possible
routes from this point: a) Towards lake
Windhond (yellow markers) and b)
Continue along the Dientes de
Navarino circuit (red markers),
turning towards the right (west).
The same stone marker that
indicates SNUPIE 1 uses initials and
directional arrows to point out the
alternative routes:
LW = towards lake Windhond.
CDN = continuation of Dientes de
Navarino circuit.
PW CDN = Puerto Williams along
Dientes de Navarino circuit (in other
words, towards lake el Salto).
The signs with the initials LW,
CDN and PW CDN are repeated
50 meters past SNUPIE 1 in all three
feasible directions, so as to prevent
any distracted hiker from setting off
in the wrong direction.
When visibility is good, one can
easily see the way up Bettinelli
mountain. With binoculars, one can
even distinguish the stone markers
that lead to the top of that mountain.
In order to climb to the top of Bettinelli
mountain and continue on towards
lake Windhond, we recommend
checking weather conditions to see
whether it is covered in cloud. Access
to the top of Bettinelli mountain is
beyond the shelter of the forest and
takes about two and half hours (from
SNUPIES 3 to 5).
The following is some
information to be kept in mind:
You will find suitable sites for
camping at 35 minutes and 1 hour
and 10 minutes hike from
SNUPIE 2 and SNUPIE 3, before
before you get to Bettinelli
mountain. There are no other
alternatives for camping until
SNUPIE 10.
*If there is a strong wind or heavy
rain, bear in mind that they will
increase as you gain altitude.
*Its about a 4 and a half hour hike
to SNUPIE 10 and the bottom of
the Windhond valley and another
1 and a half hours to the lake
Windhond shelter.
*If you have decided to continue
on to lake Windhond, descend
towards the south following
markers that are clearly visible
from each other. Further down on
the eastern side of the valley there
is a clearly distinguishable series
of beaver lakes which you must
skirt to the east. After a stony
sector, you have to cross an area
with low bushes. Turn left (east)
as you leave this area, crossing
over about 50 meters of yellowy
ground until you reach a medium
high, not very thick wood. Turn
right and go down the slope until
you reach an open space. SNUPIE
2 is in this open space.
SNUPIE 2 is located at the
bottom of a small slope just before
you reach the northern end of the
beaver lakes that you could see from
SNUPIE 1. It is painted on an isolated
rock. It indicates a change of direction
to the left (east), the entrance to the
wood and a camping alternative.
Turn left and enter the wood.
From this moment until you leave the
wood, the trail is not marked on the
ground, so you have to pay special
attention to reach a marker and
visually look for the next one. If you
get lost, return immediately to the
previous one that you found and look
for the next one again. Remember
that the markers were set up so that
you could see the next one from the
one where you are, but that depends
on the position of the hiker.
You will cross two rivers a few
meters after SNUPIE 2, where there
are small camp sites that are not very
flat but which can be used as a refuge
in case of bad weather or poor
visibility. A large rock provides excellent shelter for lighting a fire.
You will find dry firewood piled in a
gap under the rock. If you use any, it
is imperative that you replace it before
continuing your journey.
Afterwards, still in the wood, the
route turns right across the slope of
the hill for a few minutes (parallel to
the lake), before turning left and
climbing for a short distance. As you
leave the high forest, you will come
across a large clearing of peat and
grassland in the last section in the
middle of the creepers. The beaver
lake will once again be to your right.
You will see a small clearing on the
forest covered slope and you should
head there following the stakes.
SNUPIE 3 lies at the upper end
of this clearing and just before the
upper limit of the forest. It is painted
on a stake on the bank of a stream, a
few meters before the end of the forest.
It also indicates the last suitable place
to camp before starting the crossing
to Bettinelli mountain.
Even though the ground is not
exactly flat, the area is well protected
from the wind and there is a stream
nearby. When visibility is good, you
will have an impressive view of the
southern slopes of the Dientes de
Navarino mountain chain.
After SNUPIE 3, continue
climbing until you suddenly leave the
forest and reach a large area of stones
with absolutely no vegetation. The
line of stone markers takes you to the
top of Bettinelli mountain. At first
continue straight ahead and slightly
to the right (Southeast). Shortly before
reaching the summit that runs along
the length of the eastern slope of
Bettinelli mountain, the markers turn
right (south), attacking the slope more
directly. Once in the upper reaches
you will reach SNUPIE 4, indicated
by a cairn of stones on the summit of
Bettinelli mountain. The summit
provides you with one of the most
amazing views in the whole journey.
There is cliff on the eastern side
of SNUPIE 4 generally covered by a
cornice of snow. Do not step on it
because of the risk of avalanches. If
there is a strong wind, be careful not
to fall over and take care of things that could be blown away (caps,
gloves, even photographic cameras).
You have to be very careful
indeed in the next 400 meters.
Crossing this sector with steep slopes
can be dangerous, if visibility is poor
or if there are strong winds, which
can throw somebody off balance. If
you suffer from vertigo, you must be
accompanied by somebody surer.
It is a very short stretch (about
10 minutes). Dont try to look for any
alternative route there isnt one, and
it could mean taking unnecessary risks.
Markers are placed very close to each
other, so follow them without
deviating from the route.
After SNUPIE 4, turn slightly
right (southwest), following the line
of the cliff and the stone markers.
After a hundred meters or so on a flat
area that tends to drop gently, the top
of the mountain narrows towards the
left (south-southwest) and one can
clearly see, on that same heading, a
small but deep depression that looks
like a crater and has one marker at its
near end and two markers on its far
end. Cross this crater along its
bottom.
After the double marker,
continue along the steep slope until
you reach the pass that can be seen
below. Crossing this short slope is the
most delicate part of this stretch. The
ground consists of small, loose stones
that occasionally cover smooth flat
rock that can be quite slippery. You
must test each step as you advance,
especially if there is strong wind, so
as to not slide down the slope.
Descending this slope ends the
first difficult part of the route and starts
the second one a small pass generally
covered by cornice of snow. The idea
is to cross towards the left (east) and
then continue south following the line
of the valley devoid of vegetation that
can be seen below the pass.
The small lake has to be circled
on the right, without getting close to
it. Bear in mind that it can be covered
in snow in spring. The slope ends, and
the ground until the next SNUPIE is
firm, fine stony ground that is pleasant
to walk on.
In spite of the fact that the cornice
of snow in the pass generally
withstands the weight of a hiker, one
must take normal precautions:
*During the descent of the slope before
reaching cornice, observe it carefully
and determine which part is firmer
and easier to cross.
*Do not stop on the cornice.
*Use a stick to check the depth of the
snow.
*Make sure that a hiker has moved off
the danger area (the cornice itself and
the area immediately below it), before
the next one starts the crossing. The stone markers below can be
seen from the pass. Depending on the
slope, amount and extent of snow
around, adapt the route down to the
conditions at the time. It would be
impossible not to find the markers at
the bottom of the valley that mark the
route towards the right.
Following the valley to the right
(South), you reach a second large, long
lake that must be skirted on the right
hand side (west) until you reach its
outlet. Cross the river just where it is
born (the shallowest spot, just a few
centimeters of water), and turn right,
quickly leaving the water course behind
you (notice the directional arrows on
the markers). A large plain that tends
to drop gently leads southwards to the
edge of the forest. As you walk down
this gentle slope and look south you
will see a marvelous view of lake
Windhond, the adjacent bay of the same
name which opens out onto Nassau bay
and, beyond, the Wollaston islands.
Further on, only 100 kilometers away,
one can see mythical Cape Horn, the
end of the American continent.
You continue until you reach the
forest, where a stone marker indicates
the position of SNUPIE 5. A new
landscape begins to appear at this point.
The purest expression of Andean
dessert vegetation changes to a beautiful
forest of more than 25 meter high
Nothofagus trees.
Immediately to one side of
SNUPIE 5, there is large, clean area
that invites one to camp, but be careful,
it is an area where guanacos come to
rub their backs on the ground (as horses
do) and it is not advisable to set up
camp, since winds can pick up
suddenly and violently without
warning. It is preferable to camp at
the bottom of the next slope. All of
this, if you dont plan on reaching lake
Windhond that same day.
The entrance to the trail through
the forest is a few meters from
SNUPIE 5. Continue along a natural
corridor between creepers until you
reach a sector with taller trees. You
must follow the markers carefully,
since the trail in this section is not
evident on the ground. You will notice
as you advance that the vegetation
thickens gradually until you reach
SNUPIE 6, painted on a tree, which
indicates a change of direction to the
left (east-southeast) and the start of a
steeper slope down to the bottom of
the valley and river Windhond. If the
ground is wet, take care not to slip as
you walk.
There are two suitable places to
camp when you reach the river
Windhond crossing, if you cant make
it to lake Windhond, which is about 1
and a half hours walk away.
Recommended sites are on your right
as you leave the forest, close to the
river (look for the remains of
campfires). You cross the river on a
log that spans the bed of the river. It
is a decent size and allows you to cross
safely.
Anybody who doesnt feel safe,
or who suffers from vertigo, should
cross without their rucksacks (a
destabilizing element) and with
somebody to take them by the hand.
If anybody absolutely refuses to use
this perfectly safe bridge, then there
is a ford about fifteen minutes walk to
the south where one can cross the river
in about 30 to 40 cm of water (its the
only one in the area). Getting there is
pretty hard because of fallen trunks,
and getting back on the other side of
the river is no easier.
After crossing the river, skirt the peat bog on the right until you reach SNUPIE 10.
Fourth segment
SNUPIE 10 is made up of several
markers painted on 3 trees close to
one another and located in the middle
of a small peat bog close to the river.
They indicate a double change of
direction and two alternative routes
towards lake Windhond on a southerly
heading and towards Puerto Williams,
on a generally northern heading along
the Windhond and Ukika valleys.
Both options are clearly visible
on markers displayed on trees and
accompanied by inscriptions that say
LW for lake Windhond and PW
for Puerto Williams. These markers
are repeated about 50 meters beyond
SNUPIE 10 in both directions to
prevent any distracted hiker from
taking the wrong route.
If you continue towards lake
Windhond, bear in mind that the
numerical order of the SNUPIE
decreases towards lake Windhond, in
other words from 10 to 7. Turn right
(south) crossing the small peat bog
after SNUPIE 10 and enter the forest.
After a short stretch, you will reach
the end of the forest and SNUPIE 9,
painted on a tree that also indicates
the start of a large longitudinal peat
bog (on a north-south axis) that you
have to cross to reach the lake. Several
stakes at the start indicate the heading,
but these disappear in the center of the
peat bog and reappear at the end.
Continue walking south, keeping to
the right (west) of the center of the
peat bog. You will find a fairly large
lake at the end of this stretch, which
has to be skirted on the right until you
reach SNUPIE 8, located on a large,
solitary tree that is noticeably visible.
This indicates the approach to the
forest that leads to refuge Charles,
close to lake Windhond.
This is a firm peat bog that is easy
to walk on. Every so often the moss
Sphagnum Magellanicum (often called
soft peat) appears; it is easily
recognizable because of its typical
hues which vary from white to red. It
is not dangerous in itself, but it is very
spongy. For easy walking and in order
to preserve this plant, we recommend
that you do not step on it.
You will see several peat holes,
as they are commonly called, as you
cross the peat bog. These are clear
witnesses to the eternal war waged by
peat bogs against their main
component water (which makes up
nearly 95% of the composition of the
moss). You have to zigzag enough to
avoid stepping in these holes, since
they can be fairly deep.
At the start of summer, the peat
bog becomes a privileged site for
Caiquenes to nest. These nests can
commonly be found on the ground, so
be careful not to touch them.
After SNUPIE 8, follow the slope
of the peat bog for a few meters before
turning right and entering a short stretch
of wood that leads to refuge Charles
(SNUPIE 7). This refuge was built by
the Charles section of the marines on
November 2nd 1962 and repaired by
marines in 2000, who left it in a better
state of repair.
It is 9 x 3 meter wooden building
set on pillars. Its floor and walls are
made of split logs and its roof of
corrugated galvanized iron sheets (zinc).
It has a high table (like a bar), 4 bunks,
each with two beds, mattresses, and
blankets in a poor state of repair. It also
has a drum (an empty metal fuel or
oil drum with two horizontal divisions
inside and two doors), which allows one
to heat the refuge to a certain extent and
cook. People who have sheltered there
have left a small amount of pots and
pans and crockery, which is a blessing
when one starts to cook.
Theres a broom and visitors book
for when you leave, and dont forget to
restock firewood inside the refuge for
future visitors.
There is ample space close to the
refuge to pitch tents with water nearby
and shelter from the wind. Stumps mark
an area where helicopters can land in
the peat bog that separates the refuge
from the lake about 150 meters east.
The lake cannot be seen from the
refuge. To do so, you have to leave the
refuge, turning left until youre out of
the forest and then head south about 400
meters until you cross the peat bog. It is
important to mention that the refuge is
somewhat hidden in the forest, so hikers
should memorize the route back to the
refuge from the lake. For support you
can make a flag consisting of a tall pole
with a shirt tied to the top and stick in
the ground at the entrance to the forest
to mark the route to the cabin.
As a reward for this lengthy
adventure, we invite you to try your hand
at fishing. Those who have done so
recommend December and January. The
main catch is rainbow trout, which do
not exceed 1000 grams on average. Since
the wind is a latent enemy, we recommend
using 12 to 26 gram spinners. Its a 25
minute walk towards the east from the
cabin to fish from the sandy point that
juts out into the adjoining bay. You
will recognize it by the large number
of dead trees around the beach. The
bottom of the closest sectors to the
cabin (river and river mouth included)
is too dirty for good fishing.
It is important to stress that river
Windhond, which flows into the lake
close to the cabin, is generally very
obstructed by fallen trees. Its irregular
width is more than 12 meters and it
often has pools which seem to be
excellent for trout fishing. The visitors
book in the cabin mentions various
fishing expeditions that have caught
up to 30 trout in a single day.
We have no record of fishermen fly fishing in the lake, but we presume that, apart from the wind, there should be no impediment.
Fifth segment
This section starts from SNUPIE 7
heading for SNUPIE 10 counting
upwards, in other words, SNUPIE 7,
8, 9, and 10. Take a right (east) on
leaving the refuge and continue until
you cross the forest and enter a large
peat bog. Turn left (north) until you
come upon a tall, isolated tree
(SNUPIE 8). When visibility is good,
you can see the far end of the peat
bog from there, as well as the
entrance to the valley and the climb
through the forest to Bettinelli
mountain. The start of the peat bog
is marked with stakes which then
stop. Continue straight on until you
come upon the stakes again at the
end of the peat bog and reach
SNUPIE 9, which marks the
entrance to the wood.
After crossing the wood,
follow the stakes that cross a small
peat bog until you reach a small
stand of trees that divides the peat
bog into two. This is SNUPIE 10.
When walking the route in this
direction, SNUPIE 10 has two
alternative routes:
*Continue straight on in a generally northern direction until you reach Puerto Williams along the Windhond and Ukika valleys.
- Turn left (west) to advance
towards Bettinelli mountain and
then reach the Dientes de
Navarino circuit on the southern
slope of the Dientes pass.
The markers are repeated about
50 meters after SNUPIE 10 in both
directions with the inscriptions
CDN (= Dientes de Navarino
circuit) and PW (= Puerto
Williams), so as to prevent any
distracted hiker from taking a wrong
turn.
After SNUPIE 10, turn slightly
to the right to cross the peat bog and
cross a small river crossing over a
beaver dam so as to reach the side
of the slope of the valley and the
wood. Turn left (north) immediately,
so as to follow the course of the
valley along the lower reaches of its
eastern slope, always remaining in
the wood or just outside it. Then
there will be a short stretch over a
soft peat bog, after which the trail
turns sharply to the right (east) and
runs into the wood again. The slope
steepens as you move back in the
direction of the valley, but this time
on the upper part of the slope. It
gradually becomes less steep and
the wood suddenly clears. The view
through the trees shows you why
the direction changed and why you
had to climb: the river formed a
narrow meander that had to be
skirted by climbing above it.
Follow the stakes keeping to
the eastern side of the river, crossing
successively over meadows, peat
bogs, scrubland and small woods,
getting continually closer to the
center of the valley and river
Windhond until you reach SNUPIE
11, painted on a very noticeable large
tree on the edge of the river. This
shows you the best place to cross. A
marker on the bank of the river
shortly beyond SNUPIE 11 shows
the location of the ford (the only one
in this sector of the valley), where
you can cross the river in water that
is 10 cm deep.
Starting from the river crossing
at SNUPIE 11, you continue along
the left (west) side of the river to its
headwaters close to Alinghi pass.
Shortly after SNUPIE 11, you
can enjoy a clear view of the valley
to the north from the summit of this
modest hill and a good angle to see
where this circuits route continues,
especially in the sector where the
valley narrows visibly (level with
the highest hill on the eastern slope
of the valley). There one can see a
prominent hill in the lowest,
narrowest part of the valley. The
former Beaucheff refuge, a good
place to camp, is just before the hill.
The route continues zigzagging
between clumps of peat, shrubs or
small woods, often with
waterlogged ground, until you reach
SNUPIE 12.
Sixth segment
This is a section that passes
through forest and peat bogs. It starts
at SNUPIE 12, painted on a tree a few
meters past the former Beaucheff refuge.
It is a possible camp site in the middle
of the wood, between river Windhond
and the start of the western slope of the
valley. It is relatively sheltered from
the wind (but there tend to be currents
of air that can form wind eddies). You
will come upon the remains of the
Beaucheff refuge. Unfortunately,
during a snowstorm in 1995, the
weight of the snow broke the roof and
part of the walls. There are several
sites to camp in close to the ruins of
the refuge.
We suggest that you replace
firewood for the next occupants of the
place. It is not easy to find firewood
in the area close to the refuge; one has
to go about 150 meters south into the
forest and the return following your
tracks. On no account use the pieces
of broken cabin. There is a project to
rebuild the refuge using the same
timber.
Important recommendation: It is
essential that loose sheets of zinc
should be firmly held down using
heavy logs to prevent them flying off
in the wind and seriously hurting
somebody.
The hill obstructing the bottom
of the valley is on the other side of
the valley. You can reach the top in
half an hour and enjoy a magnificent
view of the valley and its mountains
The only difficulty lies in crossing the
river (generally about 25 cm of water).
This hike is particularly recommended
at sunset to enjoy the play of light and
the last rays of sunset over the
imposing hill opposite the refuge.
Condors and eagles fly around this
same hill.
After SNUPIE 12, leave the
forest towards the river and turn left.
The stakes marking the ascent to the
rocky summits that have to be climbed
in order to avoid the deep canyon that
the river forms here can be clearly
seen from the river bank.
We recommend that you follow
the stakes carefully and do not try to
walk along other trails that can be seen
in the midst of the creepers. These
lead towards the bottom of the canyon
cut by the river. The descent is
dangerous because of the steep slope
and slippery ground, which can put a
hiker in a dangerous situation at a
place where the river is a fast-flowing
torrent.
After crossing this hill, a short
steep descent leads to a narrow rocky
pass between the river and a cliff. You
then need to cross a small tributary of
the river Windhond, from where you
can see a large plain that leads to the
climb to the Alinghi pass, always
keeping the river Windhond on your
left (west).
There is a large lake at the end of
the plain that must be skirted on the left
(west) until you reach the northern shore
where SNUPIE 13 is located in a narrow
pass that runs forcibly between the
water and a small cliff. It is painted on
a stake and marks the start of the Alinghi
pass and a change of direction to the
left (north).
Follow the natural course of the
valley keeping to your left (west). You
will then reach the Alinghi pass and
SNUPIE 14, which marks the top of
the Alinghi pass and the start of the
Ukika valley, which will take you
eventually to the Beagle channel and
Puerto Williams.
From the Alinghi pass, you
descend towards the Ukika valley which
opens up at the foot of the pass and
turns at first to the right, until you reach
the Beagle channel. Remember the
following recommendation in order to
reach the plain at the end of the valley
(which still cannot be seen from the
Alinghi pass): Walk down the stairs
and stick to the right of the river and
the lakes. Stairs represents the way
in which you descend along the Ukika
valley from the Alinghi pass to SNUPIE
15, in other words, Alinghi pass, descent,
flat area, descent alongside the waterfall,
flat area, descent, flat area where
SNUPIE 15 is located.
The lake below the pass is one of
the main sources of the river Ukika,
which outflows into the Beagle channel
close to Puerto Williams. The circuit
mostly follows the course of the river,
skirting all the lakes on the right (east).
When you reach SNUPIE 14, turn
first to the right and then (next marker)
to the left to start the first descent,
crossing parts of low scrubland. Skirt
the lake on the right and climb a small,
long pampa to a small pass. End of first
plain or flat area.
Then continue along a narrow pass
in the midst of a low forest which leads
to a short, steep descent along a tiny
valley where one can see the
destruction caused by the beavers. You
have to cross this valley and climb up
one of its short slopes towards the left.
Climb down again through a wood
until you reach the second plain after
the pass. Skirt the lake on the right-
hand side until you reach its outlet.
End of second plain or flat area.
Follow the stakes and the eastern
bank of the river in the midst of creeper
type vegetation. There is a magnificent
waterfall to one side of the next descent,
but it can only be seen from the bottom.
The trail follows the course of the
waterfall before moving away from it
a little and entering a tall forest where
it gradually turns to the left (it crosses
a stream). Upon exiting the forest,
follow the stakes along a large, soft
peat bog until you come upon a small
pass. End of the third plain or flat area.
At its end, a descent through the forest
leads finally to the bottom of the Ukika
valley. After a short stretch which
crosses the peat bog to the right and
reaches the edge of the wood, you
have to continue along the edge of the
wood until you reach SNUPIE 15.
Seventh segment
SNUPIE 15 is painted on a tree at the
site called Las Marcas de Mansilla.
It indicates the start of the final plain
of the Ukika valley and a place for
camping.
2 or 3 tents may be pitched on the
small plain surrounding the SNUPIE.
There is no shelter from the wind or
rain. The forest nearby is not suitable
for camping, because the ground is
waterlogged and because of the
slope. If necessary, check about 60
m inside the forest.
The River Ukika, which
crosses the large peaty plain, forms
several lakes of different sizes. The
beavers work is evident everywhere
and it is a great place to observe
them.
After SNUPIE 15, skirt the
lake sector on the right, crossing a
sector of peat mixed with jonquil.
Stakes mark the route to the right
until a short climb through low trees,
which leads to a higher plain with
similar ground to the previous peat
bog, but now full of obstacles
caused by the beavers work. Stakes
and markers on dead trees guide
hikers between small lakes before
turning right and climbing parallel
to a stream on a spit of peat bog
surrounded by forest. At the end
of the peat bog, you have to enter
a very dense forest along a
comfortable trail. After a slight
ascent, the ground drops again and
the dense forest gradually changes
into an impressive forest of tall trees
that form what could be described
as a natural cathedral
Leaving the forest, you cross
part of a large peat bog keeping to
the right edge and following the
course of the river, until you reach
SNUPIE 16.
SNUPIE 16 is on a stake on
the right-hand side (east) of the
peat bog, near the river bank. It
indicates a change of direction. You
turn right and take advantage of
the ford to easily cross the river
Ukika.
Given the width of the river
bed (without much water in
summer), two SNUPIE 16 were
placed, one on either bank (about
40 meters apart), so that the
indications included with the
SNUPIE may be clearly understood
by any hiker doing the circuit in
the opposite direction to the
SNUPIE numbering. Once on the
other side of the river, enter the
forest and turn left 50 meters later.
A trail that is generally visible
on the ground (markers always help
if in doubt) zigzags through the forest,
following the course of the valley until
SNUPIE 17, sticking to the eastern
side of the River Ukika. At the end,
the forest clears and opens up into an
old, abandoned track for vehicles now
covered in grass. Follow it, crossing
the river and, after about 300 meters,
you will reach a gravel road where
SNUPIE 17 is located.
SNUPIE 17 is painted on a sheet
of iron and indicates that you are close
to Puerto Williams. Turn left at
SNUPIE 17 and follow the road. After
a few hundred meters, you will come
across another road. Turn right (DO
NOT cross the river) and follow that
road. The same road skirts the
municipal dump (a metal fence and
odors indicate its presence), zigzagging
in a generally northern direction until
it finally reaches the Beagle channel
after several bends on its way down.
At the end of a large straight that cuts
through the slope to the sea, you will
reach the coast road, with Villa Ukika
in sight. Continue until you finally
reach Puerto Williams.
Recommendations
- This trekking is described in full detail in the following topoguide of the Ministery of Public Patrimony. The printed guide can be obtained for free in the Ministery:56-2-3512100 -> 2325. It is hihgly recommended to take it to the walk, as it enriches the experience with descrptions of flora, fauna, geography and geology.
Route in Google Earth
Expected time
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