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ediciones
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→Season 2024/25
==Season 2024/25==
*<span style="background-color:aqua;"> '''GPT37P Option 8 and 17: Lago O’Higgins circuit from Isla Central to Laguna Larga, Bahia Bajo Esperanza, Lago and Glaciar Oriental and return via Brazo Desagua to Isla Central / 2024-Dec-21 to 2024-Dec-28 / 8 days with 3 full waiting days / Misha Bogdanov, Masha Ovchinnikova, Meylin Ubilla, Jan Dudeck'''</span>
This route via Laguna Larga is the most suitable return route to Villa O’Higgins for packrafters after visiting the North-West of Lago O’Higgins (Brazo Poniente and Isla Central). In suitable weather the return requires 4 days with one to two calm days for two lake crossings. It provides better wind shelter and shorter open-water crossings then the route via El Taitao when traveling northbound.
Note: The most suitable route from Villa O’Higgins to the North-West of Lago O’Higgins (Brazo Poniente and Isla Central) is the route via El Taitao due to the predominant wind direction but the most suitable return route is via Laguna Larga.
I drafted this route around 2021 based on satellite images and statements from local residents that a route via Laguna Larga had been used in the past.
In January 2024 we investigated the routes to the southern terminus of Laguna Larga and found a well-maintained trail.
For season 2024/25 we planned the full traverse. We called off our original plan to investigate this route starting in Villa O’Higgins as the weather was unsuitable. Suitable weather was predicted to get to Bahia Bajo Esperanza but strong wind and heavy rain would have pinned us down for 3 or 4 days in this remote location. Therefore we traveled directly from Villa O’Higgins to Isla Central to wait for suitable weather on Isla Central and to investigate this route starting from Isla Central.
Day 1: Isla Central to southern terminus of Laguna Larga
We got up at 3 am to depart packrafting from Isla Central with the first light around 5 am. Thanks to calm weather we could paddle in roughly two hours against the predominant wind direction to the trail head to Laguna Larga. We then hiked in roughly 8 hours with heavy backpacks on a well-maintained trail to Laguna Larga. We briefly visited Lencho at his home “Laguna Colerado”. Thanks to Lencho’s advice we found an excellent camping spot next to Laguna Larga which is located on dry ground within an island of forests at the shore of Laguna Larga (the entire surrounding terrain is wetland).
Day 2: Waiting day
Strong wind from the north made a lake crossing impossible and rain would have made hiking unpleasant. Therefore we happily stayed in our tents as the following day promised calm sunny weather.
Day 3: Laguna Larga to Lago O’Higgins
We got up at 3 am to start packrafting with the first light. Moderate wind from north (predominant wind direction of Laguna Larga) slowed us somewhat down but did not prevent a lake crossing. After reaching the northern end of lake we packrafted the river to first cascade, portaged the packraft, packrafted the river again and ported a second cascade (both portages area on the left looking in river flow direction). Then we packrafted a second lake, a river and third lake. After we reached the end of the third lake we packed our backpacks and scouted a route to the beach at Lago O’Higgins (only 2.5 km). The open terrain and remains of an old trail made this land traverse easily walkable. In the forest at the beach we found an old Puesto and suitable dry ground to camp (puesto of Lino Bahmondez who now lives in Villa O’Higgins).
Day 4: Waiting day
In order to packraft to Bahia Bajo Esperanza and to return safely we required two calm weather windows. We asked via InReach Andrea on Isla Central and our friend Tobias Hellwig. Based on their reviews of Windy we rescheduled our packrafting to Bahia Bajo Esperanza for day 5 and the return for day 7 of our trip. This transformed day 4 into a waiting day. The sunny but windy weather made this waiting day a very pleasant day with excellent views to Bahia Ventisquiero.
Day 5: Bahia Laguna Larga, Bahia Bajo Esperanza, Lago and Glaciar Oriental, Bahia Bajo Esperanza, Bahia Laguna Larga
We got up at 3 am to start packrafting with the first light. We reached Bahia Bajo Esperanza in less than 2 hours, packed our backpacks and scouted the route to Lago Oriental. Most of the distance is open, partly muddy terrain and the final bit is an old overgrown trail. At Lago Oriental we inflated our packrafts and paddled amidst the ice blocks from Glaciar Oriental. We then returned on the same route to Lago O’Higgins. When we arrived at Lago O’Higgins at 19:00 the wind had calmed down sufficiently to attempt the 10 km paddle to the beach and camp where we spend the previous two nights. We preferred this camp site as the terrain at Bahia Bajo Esperanza was either wet or with little wind protection. We reached our camp just before 22:00.
Day 6: Waiting day
The predicted wind made day 6 unsuitable for packrafting but day 7, day 8 and day 9 were expected to be calm and suitable for packrafting. Therefore we opted to wait one day instead of returning via Laguna Larga.
Day 7: Packrafting Brazo Desague
We got up at 3 am to start packrafting with the first light. The first two hours of the paddle were calm with barely any wind and waves. Between 7 and 8 am the wind increased. With this, waves increased quickly. We inflated our sails to advance as far as possible before conditions became unsafe. At two exposed points wind and waves became annoying and we had to deflate the sail to not be pushed by the wind against the shore. But then the wind calmed somewhat down and we sailed the following 10 to 12 km. Towards noon the wind calmed down or we entered a wind sheltered area so we had to start paddling again. When reaching the southern end of brazo Desague we exited at the settlement „La Morocha“. In the afternoon a boat was expected to move animals to a different settlement (Rio Turbio). We opted to „hitch-hike“ with this boat to Rio Turbio.
Day 8: Return to Isla Central
On a calm morning we returned from Rio Turbio to Isla Central. This 4 km paddle on a calm morning was a delight.
Lessons learned or confirmed:
1. „Windy“ provides reasonable reliable information to wind conditions but someone must understand how the surrounding mountains redirect, enforce or weaken the wind. Anyway, predictions beyond 4 or 5 days are less reliable. Therefore, packrafters should verify expected wind conditions by InReach with a person with internet access and not rely on wind predictions recorded when leaving on a longer tour. In contrast, wind predictions provided by the InReach Weather feature or often quite inaccurate.
2. Packrafting on Lago O’Higgins and other larger lakes in southern Patagonia require patience and willingness to wait several days for suitable wind conditions (especially during the more windy summer months). Packrafting routes should be selected and customized based the predicted winds. Also, food rations need not include reserves for such waiting days.
3. Settling attempts in remote areas reached a maximum in the 1970’s, 1980’s and 1990’s. Since these decades, many of the more remote settling attempts have been abandoned. Depending on climate, traces of these abandoned settlements are still visible or mostly wiped out.
*<span style="background-color:aqua;"> '''GPT37H Option 1D and GPT37P Option 16 / Villa O’Higgins to Lago O‘Higgins (Packrafting access to Brazo Bajo Esperanza) / Round Trip / 2024-Dec-05 to 08 / 4 days / Meylin Ubilla and Jan Dudeck'''</span>