26
ediciones
Cambios
→Season 2025/26
Add a new log entry always on top in the appropriate season sub-chapter and use format:
<!-- IF YOU COPY FROM THIS EDITING VIEW, YOU NEED TO USE THIS TEMPLATE (* TRANSFORMS INTO BULLET, ''' MAKE IT BOLD):* '''Start Date to Finish Date (use Format YYYY-MMM-DD) / Duration in Days / Hiking or <span style="background-color:aqua;">Packrafting</span> / Travel Direction (SOBO for Southbound or NOBO Northbound) / Chosen Route and/or Option Name (RR for Regular Route) / Names or Alias'''--><nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''Start Date to Finish Date (use Format YYYY-MMM-DD) / Duration in Days / Hiking or <span style="background-color:aqua;">Packrafting </span> / Travel Direction (SOBO for Southbound or NOBO Northbound) / Chosen Route and/or Option Name (RR for Regular Route) / Names or Alias'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki>
== Connecting to Section 12 ==
<div style="overflow: hidden">
[[Archivo:GPT 11 to 12.jpg|450px|right|Connections between GPT11 and GPT12]]
November 2024 [Tomáš]: There are a number of different ways to connect Sections 11 and 12. However, none of them have been proven to be faster than descending along the The regular route to the valley at 1400m is proven and regaining the elevation along the regular routeworks. There are a few optional routes that promise to be more direct Will alone and with less elevation gain, but as Tomáš and Natalie together found independently of April 2024each other almost identical traverse, based on that they liked [it is included in their suggestions in the trip reports below2024 Track files]. it is pure CC and the terain is not the easiest, but they appear to be very difficult and take longer than the regular routethink it is quite doable. There is one route option which appears to be unexplored, GPT11-04(and possibly 11-03). Please edit the pages of this text on both sections 11 and 12 if you have any updates.
</div>
=Section Log, Alerts and Suggestions=
*'''2025-08-09: Track file update 2025 and investigation suggestions of Jan Dudeck'''
- GPT11 Option 5 (Lonquimay): The area around Cerro Dedos is demanding. Hikers that feel uncomfortable when scrambling should therefore consider Option 5.
- Regular Route and updated GPT11 Option 1 (Ladera Oeste Cerro Dedos): As the map above indicates (Thanks Tomas!), none of these routes is easy walking. Based on feedbacks from hikers I removed particular difficult options and several investigation suggestions that turned out unfeasible. So some of the descriptions from other hikers from past seasons are not conclusive when using the 2025 GPT Track Files as reference.
- GPT11 Option 1D (Ladera Oeste Cerro Dedos): This new investigation suggestion is based on animal tracks that are visible on satellite images. It would be worthwhile if an experienced hikers investigates this route in good weather.
==Season 2025/26==
* ''' GPT11 | 2026-01-15 to 2026-01-17 I 2 days | hiking | SOBO I Route: RR - Option 1 | Michaela'''
Day 1: After lunch at Romina’s place, I started at 2:30 pm on GPT11. There were many Arrieros on the way. I camped here, a bit hidden from the minor road: -38.024602, -71.188476. In the evening, an Arriero came to my camp. I asked if it was okay to camp here, and he said it was no problem. His name is Jorge, he lives in the next Puesto, and he was very friendly.
Day 2: I met many Arrieros today. They were all friendly and only asked where I was going. I took some detours to avoid cows. I camped at camp [26.1/1957]. There were many cows, but they left when I pitched my tent. Nice spot with a great view and a stream nearby.
Day 3: I hiked up to the pass and took Option 1 to connect with GPT12. There was a lot of cross-country hiking on very loose terrain, but it was not too difficult. I had to check my GPS device often to make sure I was on the right route.
Attraction: 5/5, Difficulty 3,5/5
'''GPT12,11,10/ 2026 Jan 8-12/ NOBO / Options 5G & 2 (12), 4 & 2B (12), 1C, 1, 2, 2A (10) / 5 days/ hiking / Bailey & Illiana'''
Important information
See my last entry for right of way issues for option 2A GPT10
Information for ferry on option 5G out of Lonquimay;
We were told by Fernando (operator)
- operates Monday to Friday 8:30 am -5:30 pm
- operates 8 am -10 am Saturday 4 pm -6 pm
- Doesn't run Sunday
- Government paid, Free
- Fernando typically takes lunch around 1 pm for an hour
- Fernando says you cross without the boat it's waist deep
Day 1
Option 5G - hitch to ferry out of Lonquimay
We took option 2 to connect to RR.
Camp 1 [33.9/1281] Launga Mariñanqui. Beautiful place, plenty of flat ground and sheltered, water from the lake. Meet a group of tourists on a horse riding trip
Day 2
Stopped at hot springs Banos Coyucos, pretty nice set up. Campground looks good here
Summited Cero Dedos via option 4 (Cumbre Cero Dedos). We were considering our options here but storm clouds were rolling in. Hiked down via option 2B hot springs, great set up. Connected back to RR and camped at hot springs on variant D with cow poo
Day 3
Continued along RR, connect to GPT10 via option 1C
Puesto {10-01C} [23.3/1260] very friendly
Camp with water, beautiful river nearby -37.99719, -71.1396
Day 4
As mentioned before, last water is at -37.97455, -71.13867
Next water is at -37.90611, -71.12002
Met a gaucho looking for lost goats (20)
Camped at Hot Spring {10-01} [15.1/1812] (Pucon Mahuida). Found some flatish spots, water wasn't that clear from glacier (clear stream close to the road), exposed
Day 5
Continued along GPT10 option 1
Found water along the way up
-37.871021, -71.202049 there's a glacier fed lake that has some nice camping spots
Summited Copahue via GPT10 option 2 (Cumbre Copahue)
Confirmed good water source at -37.83722, -71.20762
Continued on GPT10 2A and 1A to trapa trapa
We got picked up by two electricians on the road. They took us to a local house who feeds them breakfast every morning. They were so lovely, we paid 20,000 CLP per person for a bed inside, dinner and breakfast
https://maps.app.goo.gl/X4PX5hCK6UBuSucC8
Their numbers are
Jose Pedro & Celina Dina +56 984176548
'''2025-01-04 to 2025-01-05 / 1.5 Days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + Option01 / Martin Ankel'''
I took the 14:30 bus from Los Angeles to Guallali, and we arrived at 20:00. I had arranged with accommodation at Cabanas Guallaly, situated about 1 km from the town. Contact: +56 9 7553 0709. The Cabanas are only available from Friday to Sunday, costs 45000 CLP/night, and houses 5 beds.
I started walking the next day. Not much to report, relatively easy and straightforward. The trail is in good condition throughout. I was swarmed with horseflies when starting the ascent. I camped at [25.1/1846], a very nice spot.
The following day I connected to GPT12 using Option 01. Not particularly difficult but a bid demanding. There is no climbing or scrambling, but when I hiked the soil was so dry that there was very little strength in the ground. One bad step in the steep slopes and you will slide a bit. I do not know if I agree with the marker “GPT11-01 Nobo: Demanding clambering … “. In my opinion this option can be done in any weather (within reason).
''' GPT11-12/2025-12-21 to 2025-12-25/4 days/SOBO/GPT11-RR/option 1/ GPT12-RR/Denis and Robert '''
We combined sections 11 and 12. In Guallalí we bought some food and had a lunch in Rominas place. Good resupply spot for next two sections. We had pretty windy weather and we connect 11 and 12 option 1. It wasn’t difficult, but no trail most of the time and loose terrain. We slept at Baños Coyucas, 34 degrees water, nice spot to camp. Before Liucura we needed to jump over few fences but we didn’t meet anyone. We stayed one night in Cabañas Garcia for 40 000 pesos for Cabaña for two people. We asked to wash our clothes and they were happy to do it for us, as well small shop straight next to the cabañas (same owner).
Difficulty 3/5
Attractiveness 4/5
*''' 2025.14.12 to 2025.15.12 / 1 day / Hiking / SOBO / RR + ‘Opt.1D’ + Var.D / Kris and Stiina'''
We combined sections 10, 11 and 12 via some options. Butalelbún to Lonquimay. 5 days in days total. 2 days for the Section 10. <1 day for Section 11 and 2 days for Section 12.
(Continued from Section 10)
In the late afternoon of day two we joined the GPT11 RR via Option 1C (GPT10) just before Ford {11} [15.7/1142] (Estero Coliqueo).
The trail continued a bit bushy and overgrown in places and and of course our nemeses - cows were lurking around and we had to sneak around, through the bushes to avoid them once again.
We camped near Camp {11} [21.2/1349], nice sheltered spot with some cow poop around and a pile of planks from some structure that has been disassembled, good for making seating.
Day 3 - Still cold and miserable, more cold and overcast than the day before and we even had some light drizzle in the morning.
While planning this section I wanted to try the Option 4 (Cumbre Cerro Dedos). From the ridge walk on Argentinian boarder the previous day I could see the Opt. 4 ridge clearly and it seemed possible but I could also see that there was still a lot of snow on the ridge and the summit starting from around 2350m. And since it was definitely not the weather for a high ridge walk we remained on the RR.
The upset cow theme continued the same as the morning before, luckily this time we were not charged at. However a few groups that we had to pass all still seemed very apprehensive of us being there. So once again we just tried our best to keep distance and walked around them CC and BB.
Getting to the Pass {11} [27.5/2176] was no problem other than it was very cold.
The first part going down from the pass was easy and straightforward and we used the snowy gully to glissade down quickly instead of walking over the loose rocky terrain.
Once we got lower down we spotted a very well walked trail across the stream going up into the bushes over here: -38.10139, -71.08903 so we decided to investigate a bit. For about 200m it was an excellent well maintained (you could see branches were cut by a saw) trail that lead out onto a meadow here: -38.10289, -71.08809 we then followed the meadow down and saw signs of a trail at the bottom of it but then it sort of ended. There was a junction of two gullies meeting -38.10499, -71.08771 and it seemed that the way going up eastwards was more traveled so we followed that. The west bank of the gully going down was definitely not possible but that’s the only one we could see, perhaps if we would have gone further down on the east side of it there might have been a way. Perhaps worth investigating if it helps to bypass the “canyon” part that we ourselves didn’t actually see.
At the gully junction we went up eastwards and pretty much contoured around all the bushes until we rejoined on option 1D at around 1750m elevation mark. Some parts of this little adventure were very steep and we definitely didn’t gain anything going this way, if anything we wasted some daylight. But it seemed that there was a potential, perhaps we just chose the wrong way at the gully junction.
So we followed a variation of 1D back to RR which was then just following the streambed until the gpx went out of it and some trail appeared. (I managed to keep my shoes dry on this whole ordeal)
We took the Variant D to look at the termas - Hot Spring ? {11-D} [0.3/1428] and had our lunch there. There were 3 nice looking pools but unfortunately a bit shallow and would require some excavation work. One of them was just about deep enough to sit in but not quite.
We were already a bit tired by that point the cold weather had taken more of our resource than we had anticipated. But during the lunch break the weather seemed to be improving a bit and according to Garmin forecast it finally promised some warm and sunny conditions for the next day. That gave us enough encouragement to keep going over the next pass and high ground of Cerro Dedos. Right after the lunch we joined the GPT12 RR around here -38.13160, -71.08637.
(Continued in Section 12)
Since we didn’t go to Guallalí or Carabineros Ranquil this section was very short for us.
For more stories, photos, videos on the trail and in case you want to ask us anything you can find us on IG: @smallfootprint_bigadventures
''' Dec 14th 2025 – Dec 16th 2025/ 2.5 days (including 1 rest day) / NOBO / RR / Matt&Linda '''
We combined GPT 12 - 09 going NOBO with resupplying in Guallalí and Trapa Trapa, 15 days total on the trail.
Day 1: after descending from Banos de Pelehue on GPT 12 RR we continued on GPT 11 RR without going to Ránquil. The CC up the pass was tough on the endurance but not very technical. We could keep our feet dry but had to do a couple of bigger moves in the lower part of the valley. We camped at Camp 11 [22.6/1461].
Day 2: rest day. We added a little fire pit to the campsite, hope it will serve you to cook some pinones!
Day 3: we continued on the RR and had planned to camp at the hot springs 11 [6.6/991] and make it to Guallalí early the next day. But the spot just wasn’t nice: the hot springs were hot but very dirty with more cow poop than water in them as mentioned before and campsite was full with cows. Since it was still early afternoon we decided to hike straight to Guallalí. At the shop 11 [0.1/951] we had to wait and yell a bit until a neighbor heard us and presumably texted Petro and Romira that we were looking for them. Petro came first and we could rest up with an ice cream in our hands. We stayed with them for the afternoon and Romira prepared a delicious and big dinner for 10k cp (stew with codero, salad, sopaipilla, little buns). We could kindly charge our electronics and also stocked up on food. They didn’t have all we asked for (no rice, no flour, no lentils) but they gave what they could out of their own supplies. What kindness!
Just as a side note here: they told us we were the first mochileros this season, probably why the stock was low in the shop. Petro questioned us about what we were eating on the trail and made a list. He said he would also be in contact with Jan. Hopefully our information will help you with the resupply!
==Season 2024/25==
*'''2025-04-7 to 2025-04-10 / 3.5 days / Hiking / NOBO / 02, 04, 02B, 01C, 01, RR, 06, 06B, 04B, 06, RR / Peggy
Day 1: continuation of section 12 via the Cerros Dedos. To reach the Baños de Pelehue, I went through 02, 04, and 02B. Beautiful! The views are incredible, especially on the Argentinian side. Cerros Dedos is easy to hike. I left my pack at the pass km5.4 and picked it up again to descend to the baños. That evening, I got caught off guard by the time change. My phone had automatically switched to the new time (one hour earlier), and I only realized it when night started to fall around 6:30 pm instead of 7:30 pm…
That night, I experimented with using dried cow dung for the fire. I managed to get hot water, but I still need to improve… I found the hot spring basin in the night, searching for hot water for my hot water bottle (even though the dung fire works, it’s quite slow and doesn’t warm like a wood fire, at least the way I did it for a first try). I found boiling water for my hot water bottle, but the water in the basin is much too lukewarm for me to bathe in at this time of year.
Day 2: even though I had decided to continue via the RR, my steps led me onto the 01 (starting with C and D). I had studied the map, it seems, the night before, but luckily I didn’t understand it because in the end it went well. At one point, around the trailhead? Km3.5, I had some doubt—there’s a short, slippery, semi-scrambling section. I didn’t feel comfortable and was afraid it would be like that the whole time. I first thought about turning back and descending via the 01, but rereading reports on the wiki, I found the one from Mathias from Austria, who (I think) is the only one to mention this part, and it gave me the confidence to keep going, slowly. The weather was good and it was still early.
In the end, I passed just above the small section that had bothered me (even though I had already done it both ways!). The rest is doable, sometimes physically demanding, but I didn’t encounter the difficulties I had expected. There’s a whole section that climbs up through a stream bed that goes well. The last part on the ridge isn’t hard if you like ridges. Slept at km25.1, a bit up high, sheltered by trees from wind and river humidity.
Day 3: I made a mistake and didn’t cross at the ford km18. I only realized later, and crossed where it seemed possible. There’s a path on that side of the river that is fairly easy to follow, but since I didn’t follow it all the way, I’m not sure if it’s reliable.
Wanting to rejoin the 06, I followed what Manon, Robin, and Thomas did and bushwhacked via CC from the ford at km15.7. At a certain point (38.014041S, 071.138786W), I joined a trail that led me to the 06. I camped here (-37.978400, -71.141083), an old dilapidated puesto, lovely little river, beautiful spot (seen in the report by Manon, Robin, and Thomas).
Day 4: my initial plan was to link sections 11 and 10 by reaching Volcán Copahue via the ridges following the same route as Manon, Robin, and Thomas using the new itineraries proposed by Tomáš and Natalie (06 and 03), but rain (and thus snow) was forecast for the next day, so I didn’t want to risk being up there.
My second plan was to go up via 06B along the ridges and descend via 04A toward Laguna el Barco and then down to Guallali to wait out the bad weather. So I started with 06B, which is a beautiful climb, manageable in the morning and at your own pace.
However, the first part of the ridge is quite challenging: physically demanding and exposed. I loved it but it was quite exhausting. I felt that after more than 3 months of hiking, my legs were strong enough to lift my body and big pack, but I also felt the fatigue from those 3 months and from the 10 days without coming down. In short, I loved it, but it’s the hardest thing I’ve done on this trail this season.
Stay on the ridge to avoid, like I did, having to climb back up the steep, unstable slope full of thorny plants! I posted some photos from the other side on FB to give a preview. Awesome for climbers, others: skip it!
So, at the end of this section, I revised my plans: considering my fatigue, the time it took to climb (2.5 hours I think?), the planned descent via EXP-I (04A), the season (night and cold come earlier), and the bad weather expected the next day, I chose to change my route and not do that option. A bit regretfully, but knowing it was the only wise choice.
But clearly, I want to come back and do the whole ridge loop. Another season maybe, with a bit more vitality. This place is very attractive. And also to do Copahue, which I skipped due to weather. Definitely a place to return to. Thank you Tomáš and Natalie for these options! And Jan siempre!
So eventually, I wanted to go through part of 04A and 04C on the ridges before descending via 06 (and pass by the place I had slept after eliminating 04 because I still thought I had time to reach the hot springs at km6.6!), but my body’s fatigue decided otherwise.
I descended via 04B, easy, you quickly find a trail. Then the descent via 06 in TL and BB, which I found sometimes a bit difficult or at least not easy, occasionally losing the trail and fighting with bamboo. The part before the river crossing is a bit tricky because it’s steep and often overgrown. Especially if, like me, you’re foolish enough to want to go fast!
On the descent via 06, you pass by the puesto of Jimena and Javier, a lovely young couple. Watch out for the dog guarding the goats! They offered me bread and coffee, and a thermos of hot water to take with me. Perfect, as it was already late.
I couldn’t reach the hot springs or Guallali, but I found a good campsite, hidden from the road and sheltered from the wind. Too late to make a fire (I don’t have gas) but I had a thermos of hot water and some bread. Thank you Jimena and Javier. Thank you, Life!
Day 5: arrival in Guallali at Romina’s place. The updated price for the 2024–2025 season is 40k for 3 meals and a night with hot water and access to a washing machine. If you arrive in the evening and leave early in the morning, it will be less because there won’t be lunch included.
Wonderful family. A big heartwarming connection with Romina and her bond with animals. A great opportunity for me to come back to this family and hike the ridges again.
At this time of year, there are lots of piñones on the ground. I cook them on the fire in water in two rounds. Normally, they require several hours to cook (at this time of year because they’re already hard). So I experimented and found that two rounds of cooking works. I cook on the fire in the evening and in the morning if I make a fire in the morning, or on two consecutive evenings. The shell should open, at least on most of them. Each time 30–40 min or more after it starts boiling.
A technique shared by an arriero to make them cook faster (a Mapuche technique I was told): roast them a bit before putting them into boiling water. I haven’t noticed a difference yet, but I don’t have enough experience.
*'''2025-03-04 to 2025-03-05 / 2 days / hiking / NOBO / RR / Chloe and Mathieu
After section 12, we went straight for the GPT without going to Ranquil.
Day 1: we climbed the pass[27.6/1974] and for that we stayed in the bed river all along of the CC part. A bit long but not difficult when you stick to this route. We went down to the Camp {11} [20.6/1317].
Day 2: we went straight to Guallalli and slept at Rominàs house. Took the bus next day to Los Àngeles at 5:30PM.
*'''2025-02-18 / 1 day / Hiking / NOBO / RR from Banos Pelehue, Natalie&Tomas option 6 to connect GPT10 on the border ridge / Manon, Robin and Thomas'''
After sandy and borring GPT12 south part, we were looking for path to avoid valley floor minor road & puestos and we found just in time Natalie&Tomas report and tracks about the new border ridge option to connect sections 10 and 11 (thanks!). We followed the route NOBO until Ford 15.7 where we cut CC to join ascending MR at about -38.012762, -71.141337. We followed MR and good TL to easily reach abandonned puesto at -37.978400, -71.141083 where we spent night (very good camp spot : peasible, water pool, beautiful araucarias with pinones supply).
Next morning we climbed the ridge dividing the valley in into two following Natalie&Tomas tracks to the north (> GPT 10 logs).
*'''2025-01-31 to 2025-02-02 / 2.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Dorota Szparaga'''
Day 1: Easy MR to 14 km. Here I have met 3 arrieros. Rivers easy for me (1.64 km). Camp at 21.6 km
Day2: Till pass at 27.6 trail easy. Only a little BB between 16 and 17 km. Descending of 3.3 km tricky. And the beginnig there is no snow. Then I chose combination of snow and river. Water cold and strong wind. Camp at 29km at a little moody place.
Day3: Continued descending river. Still cold. After joining trail at 30.8 really easy. I talked to carabineros, but there was no obligación to registratión. I followed Ana’s house in Ranquil at km 14.3 of variant F. I talked to her. Now she has proteínas and gas. Finally, one family took me to their house in Lonquimay.
*''' 2025-Jan-26 to 2025-Jan-28 / 2,5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Janboro '''
I combined GPT 09, 10 and 11 and took 6,5 days in total.
Highlights: Stunning views on the ascent to and the pass itself.
Challenges: Physically exhausting and dangerous descent on steep, loose terrain. Clambering in and around the river end the gorge on the descent.
Day 1
Started in the evening at the shop in Guallalí and camped at the Hot Springs at [6.6/991].
Day 2
Took a warm bath in the hot spring. There was still a little bit left of the cow manure mentioned in previous logs, but I just washed myself right afterwards in the river. The hot spring had a perfect hot bath temperature.
Met lots of cow herds with calves and overprotective fathers: massive bulls that clearly signal you their willingness to defend their kin if you get too close. Walking detours to keep distance as described in the manual worked well.
Camped close to [21.2/1349].
Day 3
Continued the ascent. It got pretty steep but the ways were good. The CC part uphill is also easy to walk. The views on the pass are breathtaking. Took a long food and coffee break there.
As expected after doing my research here and in the manual, I found the first couple of hundred meters of the CC descent after the pass quite challenging. It was still safe to slide down the snow field for the first hundred meters or so, but doing it this time of the year or later, choose your route and your exit point wisely. I took a snow bridge I could see from atop and hints for possible other snow bridges (water entering the snow field from the side) into consideration and only slid down the first hundred meters or so. From there on downwards, the gorge was full of snow which was unsafe to walk or slide, so I had to walk on the steep scree around it. This is the kind of terrain where you’ll want to check your hiking poles and shoelaces before. It’s still safe to walk down, but only if you choose your route carefully and walk with full focus. As soon as the snow was gone I continued my descent in the gorge right next to the river, which was easy. Then a long way clambering around the river and crossing it countless times. Again very exhausting and partly dangerous.
Once the CC part is over the path follows a an horse track that’s comfortable to walk. The last 6 km or so are a MR with almost no inclination.
Arrived at the carabineros around sunset. Ricardo, the police chief, offered me to camp on their property and to use their kitchen. Had a very nice conversation over dinner with him.
The next morning I took the bus to Lonquimay, which came over an hour later that the carabineros had told me (7 instead of 5:45).
* '''2025-JAN-10 to 2025-JAN-11 / 1.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Alex '''
The designated camp {11} [26.1/1957] has a swamp nearby with significant mosquito activity. I camped about 70 meters higher at S38° 05.114' W71° 05.379', which provided better conditions.
* ''' 2024-DEC-25 > 26 / 1 jours / Randonnée / SOBO / RR / Pierre-Marie '''
Etape : GPT09+GPT10+GPT11+GPT12+GPT13
| Meteo : soleil
| Eau : facile
| Neige : oui
| Intérêt : 4/5
| Difficulté : 5/5
| Danger : Sentier dans le torrent
Le Rio Chaviquin n'est pas tres large mais il est assez profond. En fin de journée le debit etait élevé et l'eau trouble, difficile de voir le fond.
Le sentier n'est pas toujours facile a suivre mais le terrain est degagé.
La premiere partie de la descente etait facile car couverte de neige. Impossible si neige glacée. Par contre après il faut suivre le torrent comme on peut. C'est dangereux surtout si grosse fonte ou pluie.
*'''2024-DEC-24 to 2024-DEC-25 / 1.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Ivan, Jakub, Daniel'''
This is a short section featuring river crossings, Araucaria forests, and stunning views as you ascend to the pass. From Guallalí to the ford [14.3/1100], follow the MR instead of the TL as indicated in the track files. The hot springs [6.6/991] are in the middle of a pasture and unfortunately were full of cow manure, so there was no Christmas bath. The ford at [10.6/1059] could be crossed with dry feet. The ford at [24.3/1688] could also be bypassed a few meters upstream by jumping from stone to stone, again keeping feet dry. Other fords were crossed in the usual manner.
The ascent to the highest point of this section was steep but comfortable. We spent the night on the left bank of a creek at Camp [26.1/1967] under the final elevation to the pass. It's a beautiful spot with a great view.
On the second day, we climbed into the pass [27.6/1974]. The southern side still had significant snow, but the slope was not too steep, and the surface was smooth, allowing for a safe slide down 420 vertical meters to where the snow ended.
The next part followed a riverbed bordered by steep slopes. For a while, we hopped back and forth between the banks before deciding to wade through the stream. We rejoined the TL, which transitioned into MR near approximately (-38.1333167, -71.0920333), even though it’s still marked as TL in the track files.
From the police station [38.8/1194], we continued along OH-05F. We tried hitchhiking, but the first car was heading in the opposite direction. The family in the car was on their way to a Christmas barbecue. The driver, who owns a small shop in Ranquil, showed incredible trust by giving us the keys to his house so we could wait there until he returned. So we decided to walk the 13 km along MR.
Once we arrived, Maximiliano and his wife Ana welcomed us warmly. They provided us with a shower, a bed, laundry service, and cooked us dinner and breakfast. They also allowed us to restock our supplies at their shop, which they try to keep stocked with items suitable for hikers. The shop is located here: (-38.2499555, -71.2323042).
The next day, they drove us back to the police station [38.8/1194], where we continued at GPT12. For all these services for two hungry hikers, they charged 35,000 CLP.
Maximiliano and Ana have hosted several GPT hikers before and are making an effort to support the hiking community in this remote area. Their kindness and hospitality were truly remarkable! Ana's phone number: +56984926867
*'''2024-Dec-14 to 2024-Dec-15 / 2 days / Hiking NOBO / RR + variant C / Sean & Neele'''
Pass 27.6km - snow from 1,700m to the pass on the south side. North side just has a few patches. Following RR worked for us.
Ford 18km - crossed around 6pm was waist deep (1.61m tall) and strong but manageable.
We accidentally took variant C - we were pleased about this as the RR looked very boggy. Bridge? 11-C 0.3 doesn't seem to exist though.
From about 14km to 0km is dirt road, a bit boring but also very fast.
Water everywhere.
In Guallali we stayed at Shop 11 0.1 - 30k pp for a bed, lunch, dinner and breakfast. They also sell a few basics; pastas, ramen, tuna, cookies, toilet paper.
* '''24-12-13 - 24-12-14/ 2 days/ SOBO / RR/ Volker'''
From the valley of the cows to the canyon of the lezards
I started a Guallali a 7 a.m. for the long MR (indicated as TL) walk into the valley of the cows - they were everywhere. Met 6 arrieros at different places. All indicated water reliable, fords no major problem. Camped some 500 m before the last indicated spot before the pass, great view there.
Day 2: started at 7 p.m. and arrived at 9 at the pass. By then, the snow on the southern side had just begun to become a bit softer on the surface. An hour earlier you need crampons to get down, now I could move very quick.
The second part of the CC section is not difficult if you stay in the river bed. I crossed the river like ten times, when I saw a path (also on OSM) on the left. I tried to get there, but this was a mistake. Just 20 meters, but very steep rubble. It was at that moment, when I probably looked very silly trying to get up this slope, when 2 gpt hikers passed by. I got back down to them, after a short gpt-small-talk they continued NOBO and I SOBO, now staying in the river bed. Arrived at Ranquil at 2. p.m. I had combined sections 08-11 and really ran out of food after the deplorable resupply situation in Trapa Trapa and Guallali. But nobody at the police station in Ranquil and an arriero told me, that buses go only on mondays, wednesdays and fridays. But that in 30 min an animal transporter will arrive. So it was, only that the driver’s cabin was full and the mochilero had to join the cows. 1,5 hours later the cattle and I arrived in Lonquimay.
* '''6Dec2024 - 9dec2024 / hiking SOBO / RR / 3 days / Clara'''
Beautiful landscapes all along the way up and down.
Ford at 15 : went few meters upstream, not upper than knee.
Ford at 18 : cross at the exact point where RR arrive. Water until mid thighs (I'm 1,57) Not strong current even in afternoon.
Navigation : path is less clear between 16-17 with vegetation a bit overgrown. Same between 22-23.
Snow : going up to the pass 27 was absolutely not a problem, some patches of snow at the end but easy to cross.
I didn't know at this time if I could go to the over side of the pass and I was prepared to maybe backtrack since it snowed few days before. But arriving there, saw that it could be manageable passing upper to the track on the left side, where the snow is way more thin and you can see ground between patches of snow. Still was a bit steep to traverse like this and I think it could be harder in the opposite way (physically and navigation to avoid dangerous places).
Careful when joining the river down, the snow melt because of the water so sometimes there is only a thin layer that could break if crossing there + difficult to see when arriving from up.
Descending the river after the pass was harder for me. Lots of river crossing, easy at the begining but more and more demanding as the current went harder. Careful when going up because it could lead to really steep face to go down to the river, better stay in the riverbed most of the time. At the end, any crossing was upper than the knee except last one that was mid thigs but I think it's possible to do better.
Then you go back to the trail and it's really easy.
Water : a lot.
Camp : 6.6 (the hotspring seems more used by cows by than humans but still a good place to camp). 21.6 nice.
32 : at the point hot spring. Easy to find from RR, multiple paths.
Hot spring 32 : should be around 40° degrees, just perfect for the used hiking feet.
==Season 2023/24==
Combined GPT 10(01)+11+12
Day1
Slept in Guallalí in the growth as others have described , but still asked the shop owner first for permission. Carabineros were nice and told us we did not need to check in although the sign says "obligatory check". Pedro at the mini shop is also kind and willing to help hikers although there is only a handful of items in his shop-: bought some sweets. Pedro also told me that option05 to lonquimay lLnquimay would require you to pay 10mil from to the locals. We took RR. At this time of the year the road is the "dirt-dust type" but still fast until Estero Quillaylemu (14km) which makes for a nice rest. Tomáš checked out the hotsprings at 6.6. There is a table and a pool of nicely hot muddy water directly next to a river. Better camping site than in Guallali. After the Estero Quillaylemu , the track gets harder to follow , but becomes beautiful after the ford and bend towards the pass. Lost the trail a couple of times , but found lots of wild quinoa. Camped at 25.1 behind a boulder by the river to cut the wind, camp at 26.1 looked nicer.
For the pass we followed the ridge for as long as we could (option 01) and it was fun and straightforward. Luckily, although the winds were strong that day the ridge was almost windless. Made our way down similar to Will. Got off the ridge here; -38.10270, -71.07250 (later than indicated by the GPX), headed to a small dry gully next to and below the "greyish" dirt here; -38.10359, -71.07282, you had to use your edges as the ground was hard"grit". Entered a small creek bed here;-38.10604, -71.07538 and followed it (some water) until it turned into a scramble. At that point we climbed back up to our left (East), moved south until we went down and up our final gully, just underneath 01B. This last gully was easy as Tomáš found a soft spot, somewhere around here;-38.11039, -71.07474. After this point it was easy to connect to the main route[2024: The track is in our suggestions]. Just the section up to here from the ridge is problematic - maybe two km. Probably fastest would be to go down the regular route and take the first option left, which is probably a trail and only means about 300 m of additional climbing. The route as mapped by the GPX files (option01; second half of the traverse) looks quite steep and exposed and does not save much elevation. It is probably might or might not be possible but to us from below it does not look worth it.
Lastly there are water sources on the other side of the ridge (SW, the hard side) before the hotsprings if needed.
We liked: The amazing views, the condors we met at the northern part of the pass (they came very close to us), the mountain crystals of which there are plenty on the northern side of Cerro Moncol.
We did not like so much: The higher difficulty due to the snow in some parts (Snow on top of Cerro Moncol made the regular route more difficult)
=Resupply and Accommodation=
==Resupply and Accommodation along the Route==
* Ana and Maximiliano's house - https://maps.google.com/?q=-38.249920,-71.232513. Available: accommodation, meal, protein, gas
=Transport to and from Route=
Other days bus to Troyo can take you most of the way, but hitching the rest might be difficult
Dec 2024 :Bus from Ranquil to Lonquimay Mondayranquil --> lonquimay : monday, Wednesday wednesday and Friday 7:30friday 2 times/day. Leaving ranquil around 7am or 5pm (and leaving lonquimay around two hours before to go up to ranquil)
=Permits, Entry Fees and Right-of-Way Issues=