19
ediciones
Cambios
→Season 2024/25: Our hike
Add a new log entry always on top in the appropriate season sub-chapter and use format:
<!-- IF YOU COPY FROM THIS EDITING VIEW, YOU NEED TO USE THIS TEMPLATE (* TRANSFORMS INTO BULLET, ''' MAKE IT BOLD):*''' Start Date to Finish Date (use Format YYYY-MMM-DD) / Duration in Days / Hiking or <span style="background-color:aqua;">Packrafting </span> / Travel Direction (SOBO for Southbound or NOBO Northbound) / Chosen Route and/or Option Name (RR for Regular Route) / Names or Alias'''--><nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''Start Date to Finish Date (use Format YYYY-MMM-DD) / Duration in Days / Hiking or <span style="background-color:aqua;">Packrafting</span> / Travel Direction (SOBO for Southbound or NOBO Northbound) / Chosen Route and/or Option Name (RR for Regular Route) / Names or Alias'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki>
<!-- IF YOU COPY FROM THIS EDITING VIEW, YOU NEED TO USE THIS TEMPLATE (* TRANSFORMS INTO BULLET, ''' MAKE IT BOLD, WHAT IS ENCLOSED IN <> MAKES IT BLUE):
* <span style="background-color:aqua;">'''YYYY-MMM-DD / X days / Packrafting / SOBO / RP / Your name'''</span>
-->
<nowiki>* <span style="background-color:aqua;">'''</nowiki><span style="background-color:aqua;">'''YYYY-MMM-DD / X days / Packrafting / SOBO / RP / Your name'''</span><nowiki>'''</span></nowiki>.
=Overview=
=Section Log, Alerts and Suggestions=
==Season 2024/25==
* '''2025-March-21 to 2025-March-23/ 3 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR/ Nimrod & Tamar
'''
We marked few optional camps because there wasn't any waypoints (all flat, wind protected with water nearby):
-51.42383, -72.90185
-51.40169, -72.96401
-51.25507, -72.98694
In short- Beautiful section! Wild forest with a lot of purple mushrooms and psychodelic lichens! And a beautiful view of torres del paine ridge from afar after the pass.
Day 1- We started from Puerto Natales by ordering an Uber to Estancia Perales from the app. The driver told us he could not take us there because it's privet property, but he brought us half way on the MR (-51.352671,-72.396458) .
We crossed the fence, started walking and got lucky with a hitch we got after half an hour from the grandughter of a worker at Estancia Perales, That's why she had the keys for the gates and could drive there.
Right after Estancia Perales the bridge is broken so you have to ford the river. We forded a bit upstream, knee high. Walking the forest went slower then we expected because of slippery branches, mud, wetlands, and fallen trees
Camped at- (-51.27007,-72.533701)
Day 2- walked all day through the forest quite slow. Kept following the blue sticks.
Met Pierre-Marrie :) and also three other hikers that looked for an adventure after they got turned around at Torres Del paine for not having reservations for the "o". Slept right before the pass at (-51.235398, -72.589832) in a deserted camp from the old race.
Day 3 - walked up the pass. Views where incredible! Small Glaciers, lakes, and crazzzy wind! Didn't know it's possible to fall on the ground from wind- apparently it is, even with the heavy backpack! Probably 4 hours walk until we got to the next tree line- also a nice place to camp there.
We went on down until Rio Serrano. Took a hitch from the main road to the near by campsite- payed 30k clp for pitching our tent+warm showers+wifi+electricity.
Next morning we continued to Torres del Paine. We didn't look for resupply at Rio Serrano.
* ''' 2025-MAR-21 > 23 / 2,5 jours / Randonnée / NOBO / RR > 46-03 > 46-B > RR / Pierre-Marie '''
Etape : GPT46+GPT45
| Meteo : nuages, vent le dernier jour
| Eau : facile sauf sur la gravel road
| Neige : très peu
| Intérêt : 4/5
| Difficulté : 5/5
| Danger : sentier très humide
Le bus a mis 7h de El Calafate à Puerto Natales à cause notamment de la frontière (border control AR : -51.6900747, -72.2970717 ; border control CL : -51.6993272, -72.3279401). J'attend 2 jours à Puerto Natales que la pluie passe. J'ai demandé au bureau "Turismo 21 de Mayo" quel était le prix pour le ferry Puerto Natales > Estancia Perales. Il y a deux options :
Transport privé > 180 000 CLP / Transport partagé (travailleurs) > 80 000 CLP. Je vais donc essayer de faire du stop autant que possible. Et ça n'a pas fonctionné. La route est peu fréquentée et se termine en cul de sac pour les véhicules. Il n'y a pas d'eau avant le canal et le torrent au km 58,8. Le pont est détruit à l'estancia Perales, c'est un ford simple car le torrent a plusieurs branches. Il était en crue dans mon cas et je n'ai pas eu de problème. Il y a de l'eau environ 3km après l'estancia Perales. La suite est balisée SoBo, parfois les batons bleu sont derrière les arbres pour les NoBo. Le sentier était très humide voir innondé. Beaucoup de boue, d'arbre et de branches en travers du chemin, et les marais sont impossible à traverser sans mouiller ses chaussures.
Par contre je n'ai eu aucun ford car j'ai toujours trouvé un arbre couché pour traverser. J'ai été serieusement ralenti par l'état du sentier et je suis arrivé à 18h à la bifurcation avec la 46-03. Mauvais timing. Je n'ai pas utilisé le camp avec le mur en pierre situé à la bifurcation car ça ne protège pas des rafales. J'ai cherché un camp à l'abri du vent dans la vallée et j'en ai trouvé un à 1km près du grand torrent. J'ai bien fait de camper en bas car sur la 46-03 et la 46-B je n'ai vu aucune place et le vent était infernal. Il y avait de la neige fraiche dans la montée avant le paso Abelardo. Je conseille ce detours car c'est la seule partie vraiment sympa de cette section (j'adore les randonnées Alpines). Il y a un camp au point (-51.3234283, -72.9994182) ou les 3 pistes se rejoignent dans la descente. Toute la randonnée était balisée. Je pense que tôt ou tard il faudra payer pour la faire, c'est rare d'avoir des aménagements gratuits...
*'''05-03-25 to 08-03-25 / 3 days (2 full days and 2 half days) / SOBO / OH 01 + new route (Fjällräven classic) / MiaimZelt'''
Summary: explored a new option, not yet part of the GPT-files. Followed the route of the Fjällräven classic 2024, the GPX can be downloaded (for free with Account) at Wikiloc. You can find the link in my post in the Facebook group.
Found a well marked trail in great conditions that leads through very scenic landscapes. Also a very lonely one. Campspots are easy to find.
Day 1: Took a Uber to Cueva del Milodon. From there it's easy to hitch to Villa Serrano. Lot's of tourist cars drive on this road. Started hiking at 3pm on OH 01. Had enough time to do a detour to William's lookout
-51.276378, -72.964356. The markings with the blue sticks started soon after Laguna Escondida. Was worth the detour, you also can continue to the RH-trail. Near Laguna Escondida it's possible to find a sheltered spot for camping in the forest. I decided to camp here -51.254316, -72.963027 with awesome views at TdP NP.
Day 2: The trail was marked with blue sticks the whole day. Also found some original markings from the Fjällräven classic event. A lot more lakes in this area than on the maps for example here -51.242426, -72.940097 and here -51.240196, -72.932255. Sometimes the trail is wide and looks like a 4x4 track, but it's clearly used by horses and has vegetation on it. After crossing the road it becomes a singletrail again. Very scenic along Toro lake, the trail is in superb conditions. Few water sources for example here -51.250219, -72.871242. Bridge here:
-51.270129, -72.854358. Directly after the bridge i saw a private property sign in the direction i was coming from, but it made no sense, there was nothing but nature. Nice waterfall -51.269681, -72.852919, don't miss it. Soon you reach a road that leads to the Patagonia Camp Hotel, the trails seem to belong to them, but they also seem to be public. There are signs indicating trails. After crossing the area of the Hotel on the MR i came along a ruin (Puesto Dudas), here begins the next superb trail, again with the familiar blue sticks. Great views at Lago Porteño and Toro Lake. Toro Lake Access: -51.299071, -72.808406 and -51.294378, -72.7913.
Camped here -51.294148, -72.785916 and saw an incredible sunset.
Day 3: After the bridge between Lago Maravilla and Toro Lake the new option begins, it's neither on OSM nor in the GPT Files. Just follow the blue sticks, they lead the best way. Came across some fences, that i could cross with a wooden ladder. The path crosses the road and ascends steeply afterwards. Than it's flat, before it goes up again. After crossing a creek (walking on stones) and climbing over a ladder, the trail and the blue sticks disappeared. I have no idea why, walked CC (very easy) until i reached a 4x4 track, that can be seen on OSM. Followed it until it approached a house and a fence. Was unsure whether i should cross the private property or not and decided to walk around CC a bit below. Rejoined the trail a few minutes later and found another ladder. Also the blue sticks reappeared. Camped with some trees here: -51.442719, -72.633219. Some random dogs came by and disappeared quickly, but they were alone. Saw them again next day with cattle.
Day 4: Again blue sticks and fences with ladders. Crossed a area with a simple house and lot's of dogs here:
-51.450727, -72.595176. The blue sticks clearly lead this way, at the end of the property there is another ladder. On the other side the steep climb to Cerro Mocho starts. Here -51.469667, -72.558923 water and Camping options below the summit with nice shelter from the elements. The summit is still decorated with the swedish red cross. Downhill we follow a wide track, until we hit a nice singletrail (not on OSM) that leads through the forest. The blue sticks lead you to a horse meadow at Estancia Dos Lagunas, but i was uncertain how to get access to the road. Tried the OSM trail first, but it doesn't exist and there is a fence that can't be opened. Went back to the horse meadow and simply went through it. Both sides have gates that can be opened and cloesed easily. There were people nearby, but they ignored me. At the road it was easy to hitch to Puerto Natales. Arrived at 2 pm.
* '''09-12-24 to 12-12-24 / 3.5 day's / NOBO / RR / Robin & Manon'''
Great easy and scenic section, met noone, feels great to arrive at Torres del Paine by foot !
We hitch-hiked to cueva del Milodon, lots of cars going this way. From there it's a 3km gravel road to the crossing with the minor road that goes to Estancia Perales.The crossing is not well placed on the track files and is at S 51° 33.454', W 072° 40.111'. there is a sign "Estancia Perales - 20km". We passed several estancias on the way, always asking our way to Estancia Perales and noone seemed to care. We asked the gauchos and slept by the river next to the estancia.
RR is relatively easy to follow with the blue sticks. 25km of forest walking with some fallen trees seems long. Then once you're out of the forest it is very easy and scenic on the valley and down to Rio Serrano.
We camped above the treeline down to the Chacabuco glacier on a wind exposed but beautiful camp site. Then we camped on a incredible balcony on Paine range and campo de hielo at S 51° 17.886', W 072° 59.753'. no water and 200m of bush bashing but worth it.
No easy resupply at Rio Serrano. However all campings on Torres del Paine provide basic (junk food) resupply that can get you on the O and W trek. We relied only on that.
* '''02-11-2024 to 06-11-2024 / 4,5 days / NOBO / RR / Sophie and Gaspar'''
Our journey began on November 2nd, departing from Puerto Natales. The first two days were spent reaching Estancia Peralta via a road that started paved but quickly transitioned to gravel, posing no significant challenges. The only noteworthy incidents were a few “Private Road” signs and a landowner initially reluctant to let us pass, claiming it was private property. However, after explaining our destination, Estancia Peralta, he allowed us through without further issues.
From Estancia Peralta onward, the conditions became more challenging. The bridge had been washed out by floods, requiring us to ford the river on foot. The trail then began, marked sporadically with blue posts originally placed for the UltraFiords race, which hasn’t been held in about three years. As a result, many markers are now difficult to follow due to lack of maintenance.
The path led us through a forest full of fallen trees and dense undergrowth, demanding both GPS navigation and physical endurance to navigate while constantly climbing over obstacles. Exiting the forest, we faced around 20 cm of snow at the summit. To minimize avalanche risk, we stayed in the center of the valley, as the slopes were still heavily snow-laden.
The descent rewarded us with breathtaking, postcard-worthy views of Torres del Paine National Park. From there, the journey continued smoothly until we reached the Río Serrano, marking the end of this section.
* '''30-11-2024 to 02-12-2024 / 3 days / SOBO / RR / Celio, Amalia and Isabelle'''
We did what it's now the regular route on the newest gpt track files from 2024 ( the one not crossing paso byron and the cerro Chacabuco glaciar).
There is still some snowfield on top of the section, but not much. We had some frech snow from the previous day (around 10/20cm). The traverse is easy to follow with all the blue stick from the old fjord trail. The long forest section after the mountain pass is very muddy and wet! Also crossing a lot of fallen trees, it became quite unfunny until you get out and finnally see the beautiful fjord!
To get there :
We try to do it NOBO but in puerto natales we couldn't find someone to bring us there. We ask at the office of turismo 21 de mayo and they propose us a transfert for 180k pesos. And apparently there workers bus is full when going there. So finally we decided going SOBO.
To leave in estancia perales there is a catamaran running every day during the high season and leaving around 15h30, ask directly the captain of the boat when you get there and it's 20k pesos for puerto natales and it takes 1 hour.
==Season 2023/24==
*Frank '''march-3 -2024 to march-5-2024 / 2.5 days (with hitchhike) / SOBO / Oh3 - RR / Matthieu''' What an amazing section. The diversity of terrain is what you're looking for here. Lakes hidden in the woods, rocky pass with blue lagoons, glaciar, broken forest, swamps, pastures, big lakes... and the fauna that comes with it ! I didn't see any human from rio serrano to estancia perales... what a relief after the parc ! I connected trek O of torres del Paine with GPT46, hitchhiked and hiked a bit from the campamiento central sur to rio serrano by the road in half a day. I had schedule obligation but otherwise OH2 on GPT45 to rio serrano would have been an amazing hike. I hitchhiked back to natales from the private road a little bit after Ea Perales, for the same schedule reason, but the minor road was really nice I would gladly have stayed on it a day more. It was an estancia worker minibus around 17h20 (so probably leave at 17h at the estancia), I expect there is one every day for them to get back home. It turns left to join the road before the cuevas de milodon. Trecking difficulties : As previously said, the terrain after the pass is of hard progression between swamps and clambering of big tree trunks. I would say about 25kms of it, and you find the good trail 6.5 kms from the estancia perales. It is all marked with blue sticks to the end, that is actually game changing, much less GPS demanding. Between Rio serrano and the pass, the trail is clear and easy. At this time of year, the river crossings were easy and I didnt have to cross any snowfield (on Oh3). Camps : Big arrieros flat spot at the big lake just before the pass. River going off the lake 50m after, and a little trail to go bath in the lake. All protected by the trees, amazing. - multiple flat areas after in the valley going down after the pass, along the river. Water : everywhere on the way, no need to carry in the bag. Resupply problems : ¡WARNING! Rio serrano is a VERY UNCERTAIN resupply city. There are only hotels with restaurants, and no minimarkets (for probable commercial reasons...). I was very lucky to see a paper in the wall of the bus stop with the phone number of a local house unofficially selling simple minimarket things (fidellos, puree, cafe, galletas, cigarettes... but sometimes already opened or almost finished !). It saved my trek so I was very glad, but this plan is really unsure, I understood that there wasn't much left to sell. If you connect SOBO with the parc, you can buy what you need (simple minimarket things) in the campings before going on GPT46 (warning again : camping central sur only have expensive prepared sport meals, better buy in the other campings). Notes to jan : I did a few GPS waypoints for campsites and water spot. * '''Frank / 7-9 Jan 2024 / 3 days / Option 3 then RR SOBO'''
Walked in 2 half days & 2 full days:
4. I continued easily along the road to Ea. Puerto Consuelo in 3.5 hours. Very little traffic on the public road, I walked out 7KM then hitched to Natales.
* '''From 2023-11-28 to 2023-11-30 // 3 days // Hiking // NOBO // Option3 cordon cerro Chacabuco // Quentin Clavel'''
Another amazing section, but quite challenging as well. The conditions to pass cordon cerro Chacabuco were pretty rude, wind, snow and glacial temperature. Patagonia at its best !
==Season 2022/23==
* '''9 to 12 April 2023 / Ishay / Route from Rio serrano to connect to GPT 46 RR sobo / 4 days'''
Overall - Beautiful and remote section with great scenery and colors. unused trails, snow, cold, wetness, mud and fallen trees slowed me down and made it a little harder. was worth the effort though. I got lucky and had good weather. would have been miserable otherwise.
*'''Comment Jan Dudeck November 2023''': With the glacier changed it might be better to take GPT46 Option 3 (Cordon Cerro Chacabuco) that avoids the glacier crossing and goes directly to the Settlement Rio Serrano. * '''Comment Jan Dudeck December 2023''': For the Track Files 2024 if have re-routed the Regular Route along Option 3 and Option 3 becomes the demanding glacier traverse. * '''SoBo/January 222023 /Tobias Schorcht and Caterina Bormioli/7 Days/Method: Hiking '''
One of the most challenging Trails for me on the GPT so far (Crossing Glaciar Chacabuco is dangerous by now). Probably have to change the main route. The trail from Río Serrano to Puerto Toro is good visible, because they use the trail for horseback riding. Some parts of were very muddy even though we went in dry conditions. The estancia puerto toro has been abounded since 2 years. They use to have a ultra trail race to estancia perales. Last time when the race took place was 4 years ago.
All the trails around are mostly marked with blue sticks. It seems that the cows are chewing on them. Crossed glacier Chacabuco in perfect conditions. BUT: It is very difficult by now. The Glaciar shrinked so much much, that the original access is the ice can not be used by now (very steep morain). Took us 1.5hours to find an alternative, which was not safe as as well. I spotted a alternative and discuss it with Jan. The glaciar was still partly covered with snow (20/01/23). Most of the glacier columns were good visible. I recommend crampons and a rope. From how the glaciar has been changed, I guess it has been much easier to cross some years ago. Arrived at Estancia Perales after 5 days and had the best Coca Cola of our life. Took the Catamaran back to Puerto Natales (20 000 CPS, 3p.m. every day in high season). I returned 2 days later by bus (10 000 CLP, “Tourismo 21 de Mayo”, every day 12a.m.) and completed by by gravel road walking. Packrafting might be possible (SoBo). There are many camping spots among the coast. Wind is getting stronger towards Natales and appears usually from the north.
=Resupply and Accommodation=
=Transport to and from Route=
=Permits, Entry Fees and Right-of-Way Issues=
=Links to other Resources=
=Images=