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After meeting in Bolivia, we met up again in Puerto Fuy. Dubious section selection for Valentin’s first multi day hike. We took the 09:00 super scenic ferry to Puerto Pirehueico. Another vote for Mané’s empanadas de pescado. After hopping over the signless fence the trail follows an old road bed with a gentle grade for a day and a half: one last dip in the lake, a nice woods vibe, big old trees, some light caressing of bushes, and flowers galore. My paddle blade made an excellent Tábano (horsefly) swatter for the open fields. Views at the pass were rewarding but brief. After the bridge and cabin at 64.2 the bamboo bumping began. A machete would have been cathartic. The regular route trail (RR-TL-V {18} [62.7/72.2+2.1]) was the whackiest. Gaps in the trees allowed sufficient sunshine for walls of bamboo to grow. It was usually possible to see the old treadway but slow goings averaging less than 1 km/hr. “Termas➡️” was written in red on a tree around (-40.1600, -71.9206) but we didn’t investigate. We didn’t see (RR-TL-V {18} [67.6/77.2+1.3]) and forded when the road reached the river, shimmying under barbed wire on the other side. Later we saw the riverside gate a bit south of the southernmost “ford?” location. No problems with guards or property owners. The termas naturales were a splendid end to Valentin’s first backpacking trip. We got a ride out from a couple at the hot springs.
* 2023 January 3 Frank 3 days RR SOBO & optional route between Estero El Africano and waypoint "Guard"
The first 40KM are on an old jeep track. There are some fallen trees but you can generally get round them easily. At Camp 133 the ground is rough & I didn't find a good camping spot. Instead a little before the camp I crossed the stream & 200 metres downstream there are two huts. The smaller one is in good condition & I slept on the floor. Saw wild boar nearby.
You cross the river on a bridge to a hut, continuing on a trail that is partly overgrown with young bamboo. Bush bashing is mostly easy. Also some fallen trees & 2 very short sections of severe bamboo bashing.
Crossed Rio Curringue near Estero Africano to continue on optional trail 001. This section barely exists as large parts have been taken back by bamboo. It is now a severe & sustained bamboo bash requiring huge effort to crawl, break & climb through at about 1 kilometre per hour. A machete would not be very useful as the bamboo is growing in solid walls. If you follow track file 001 after the river crossing you come to an impenetrable wall of bamboo. Instead I went downstream about 40 metres & by a small wall I cut up onto the trail. It gets clearer as you go up but soon disappears in the bamboo forest. Micro navigation is required as if you break through on the route you may come to a partially clear section where you can walk upright but breaking off route generally leads to more bamboo. This section was the most overgrown I encountered on GPT1-40. A machete would not be very useful as the bamboo is growing in solid walls. When you get to 002 it is a clear jeep track & 003 is also good. Took me 9 hours to get from camp 134 to 135. It would be best to avoid crossing Rio Curringue & stay on RR. The alternative route which splits from RR at camp 134 may also be viable. Camped on a small layby above where optional route 003 descends to the river. Easy river crossing on day 3 & I walked out by waypoint "guard" The guard was at the house near the gate but he just waved & the gate was open.
* 25 Dec 2021 / Molly and Melissa / Northbound / 4 days